You definitely do not waste our time on these videos Vince. Not every repair is successful, and the fact you show your failures just proves that we aren't magic and we can only do our best. Great video as always
"Remember that this is just for entertainment and I am not an expert in these repairs.", mate, i would beg to differ, the patience and methodical way you approach this sorta thing is very impressive....its almost therapy watching these!
Excellent video, we went from capacitor changes to gpu reflow to gpu reball, had me on the edge of my seat. Also loved the start where we are shown his good working unit, that we all know will be used for parts. Keep up the great work.
I always chuckle when I hear you say “I’ve been beaten!” And there’s an hour left in the video. Love the videos. Just started watching the channel. Thanks for all the really great information you share.
My Mate Vince I learned something new from you today. I had no idea that you could use a universal stencil like you did and just push the balls off that aren’t needed. I’ve struggled with trying to tape the areas off and it never worked. Thanks brother this was a good try. I like that you show, what others may not, the failures that every technician deals with from time to time. Thank you 🙏🏻
Finally a PS2 video! I work fixing those and Power On no signal are a PAIN. But u don't have one of those. The NAND on this PS2 is bad! 100% not a video problem. Try to reflow/change the chip.
@My mate VINCE So recently "Xbox" has released a bunch of faulty controllers specifically the (Xbox series 2) and with this series 2 controller there are many faults that lots of people are having. Most notably the( Lb and Rb buttons) the buttons them self typically arnt broken however tend to be 80% unresponsive unless you used so much pressure you'll more than likely damage the controller. Other faults tend to be the face buttons, if you would please look at one controller and see if you can fault find the trigger Buttons on the back. Sure you'll be a Microsoft community hero, because everyone is scared to lose the warranty and most of us arnt experienced like you. Sorry for the long paragraph, but I feel like of you were to do this you'd push Microsoft in a direction to make reliable controllers instead of money grabbing us for faulty flashy controllers.
@@ricardopeacockii719 return, refund if you can even the elite controllers are trash. There is a class action lawsuit going on right now on elite controllers
Thank you Dandy, which one is the NAND? I searched online and I couldn't find it. Also can it be lifted from a working console and swapped or does it need to be flashed or something :-)
Keep up the good work. If someone thinks you just wasting our time should not watch your videos. In my opinion they are always interesting and educational. I learned few things from them for example I was able to change the analog stick in my swich joycon. Thank you mate.
Liking the new music! Nice change from the usual classical! And it's still interesting watching this videos, even when the repair is a failure. I, myself, just like watching the process of fault-finding and attempting a repair by replacing various components. With the large number of more 'professional' TH-cam channels, it's always a nice a find and a reminder of the humble beginnings of TH-cam, when you find an amateur channel, just having fun. It's far more interesting not knowing the outcome of the video, anyway!
Thanks for the hard work. Actually fixing it would be a bonus but not necessary. There is great value in determining what isn't the problem. It might be mentally rough but learning the hard way is learning that sticks
You can't win them all, but we always learn something new with each foray into the technical repair realm. 100% enjoyed this video and all of your content, never stop doing what you love!
The PS2 display cable is proprietary, but it's pretty basic. As Vince found out, the Composite cable only has four wires, and the Component cables you'd use for 480p output looks exactly the same but has two more wires. The older PS3 also uses this same proprietary cable as the PS2 if you don't want to use HDMI, so it's backwards hardware compatible regarding the display.
@@Kamil-DIY one of the slim ps2 models has 3 screws instead of 4, i tried to put one there thinking someone removed when i realized the case had a bump and it wouldn't close with a screw in it.
hey Vince, nice try at BGA rework! I think you did a pretty decent job on reballing. One thing I'd say, once you reballed it, you should have put flux on the chip itself and given it another heat to help align the balls and make them more uniform before placing the chip to be soldered down. This also helps you ensure that no shorts happen in the soldering process
Vince, this is NAND related. the BIOS is searching, that's what sends power to image port, getting rid of the "no input" on screen, from there it reads NAND for OS, which shows as the Playstation startup screen. It was a prevalent issue with the PS2 Slim.
Thanks Joe :-) Do you know which chip on this board is the NAND and whether it can be swapped from another PS2 Slim. I know it is too late for this PS2 but it might be useful for future fixes :-)
Possible you blew a fuse when you accidentally bridged the GPU during the reflow? Just a guess from my limited knowledge on ps2 faults and the green to red light.
Vince your videos are awesome and what you and Steve is doing made me to watch every single video that you both upload,Thank you once again,being fan for a very long time Mate
i work with Xbox 360 hardware, 90% of the time when there is no power, its almost always the USB ports. bend them so they aren't touching the port itself, and watch it spin to life. gamers destroy a lot of USB ports when they rage in COD4
Awesome try to fix PS2 slim video sorry to hear that you couldn't fix it but hey it was a learning experience for all us watching. Anyway can't wait to see more videos.
Should have tested those 8 array 47 ohm Resistors in between the GS GPU and the EE CPU. That was likely the culprit of the black screen fault. PS2's don't have BGA issues. The solder underneath is plenty good.
Vince, thank you SO very much. You have gone through the whole thinking process and given us all that knowledge about problem solving techniques. You have no idea how important your videos are for beginners like me. May the Lord bless you my friend 👍
I was rooting for you! And like kotm3 says, wasn't expecting to see a reball job. Certainly an excellent first attempt (I've never done it, I lack the skillset) - thumbs up for attempt!
As the proud owner of a non-working PS 2, I do appreciate these videos. (I am fairly certain that my problem relates to a dirty laser, but I have not yet taken it apart to test my theory.)
@@earlspencer7863True but they have a limited lifespan. After the new one goes, it needs to be replaced yet again. Eventually there will be no more and then what? In the garage it goes
hey mate, been following you for like ... ever. just wanted to send some appreciation for this kidna content, gave me the confidence to do and learn repairs myself. ur awesome keep up the learning!
I agree with you, Vince, it makes it more interesting wondering whether you will be successful or not. Still interesting to watch even the times you don’t manage to fix what you’re working on
34:32 the three “test points” appear to have traces hidden underneath. If you use the < > keys, you can pause the video and go frame-by-frame. I see small lines that appear to be traces going under the much larger chip when there is a glare going over that area.
Use some kapton tape to secure the stencil to the chip when doing a bga reflow, cover up the unnecessary sockets with the tape too. Yes this will take some time to do but it guarantees a clean adhesion and minimizes the amount of balls to what is needed.
He did do ylod, its not the gpu its the tantalum caps that need replacement. People thought it was the gpu reflowing because the caps are right below the gpu and reballing the gpu heated the caps and brought the ps3 back to life temporarily
Its the same with red light errors on an xbox 360, some are gpu and cpu related and others can be dodgy caps, southbridge, ram memory and even iffy hard drives...
Thanks Vince I thought it was only me that couldn’t fix stuff 🤣. New to electronics and most of the stuff I’ve tried can’t find issues or change components and it still doesn’t work, but I will keep persevering 👍
I was thinking Kapton tape, but actually it doesn't matter. Tape over the areas that don't need solder, fill the remainder, then remove excess balls and the tape. I'd have also tried reflowing the balls once the stencil was removed, that might've allowed the couple of slightly off position ones to move right on to the pads. Good video though
You really need a scope to debug problems like this. Your TV detects a signal, which means the line sync is generated by the video signal chip you de-soldered. This chip is working (as you proved) , it just doesn't seem to get any input. The input of this chip comes from the GPU. You need to take your working board and compare signals one by one. Probably your GPU is not sending any signal to the video signal chip because your CPU is not booting correctly. You can also use your scope to check the ripple on the CPU supply voltage, or the chip selects (and data and address lines) toward the ROM (NAND) memory.
Same issue on my ps2. But it generates no output in the video(4015 chip). I also checked audio with scope and there is no activity on those rails also. I then pointed at the 4015 input and there is nothing there either. All the chips get warm. Lens assembly moves up and down in a controlled manner. But no signal. on the AV.
Thanks for the Video. I have a Slim PS2 Myself. Last time I used it touch anywhere near the video cable port and you can hear horrible humming on the TV but touch it again it goes away. Now I know what it looks like and I was thinking about trying my hand at fixing.
1)Check for damages on the AV cable and/or the AV port. 2)Check for dried/cold joints on the AV port. If you're lucky, you'll just need to add solder. If not, some cold joints need to rebuild the trace. Also check Power supply port, they're prone to have cold joints due to the way Sony placed them on the PCB.
Enjoyed this one as always, Vince. Agree totally with what you said at the end - it’s more exciting when you don’t know the outcome. I’m always rooting for you though! 😊
Mine went temperamental like that just before it died. It died when the modchip failed. It was semi repairable when that happened though and would actually start up when the modchip was bypassed but not every time. It only lasted for a short period before dying completely. I don't think this applies here though because there is no modchip on your board.
100 percent right best to show the failures.. that's what real life is all about... how disappointed would people be if they thought every time they try to fix something they will succeed? and maybe not for others but i have learned some things from this video even though it didn't get fixed.....like how to even begin tracing a fault... at the start i was thinking where the hell is he even going to start with this its such a weird fault but then you go right down to the single video input signal on one single pin and follow the whole thing.. better luck next time :)
Nice try on bga!, you've changed every single power regulator ic on the board except the big 5v LDO in the middle which is responsible for audio and video chips
BGA, You need to clean the pads on the chips so that they all nice and shiny , not greyed like on 1:04:22 top left corner and on the top row , before putting on the stencil put a very thin layer of flux on the chip then the stencil then the balls after heating and melting the balls ,Remove the stencil remove all the balls that is not used, Apply flux and reflow all the ball so that they become nice and round again, Great video 👍😊
Tough luck Vince, I am sure this will be a revisit video, but this was still interesting and I love the way you go about fault finding, it gives me food for thought, plus like you say if every video was a success, then where is the tension of waiting to see if we get a Vince "YEEEESSSSS" at the end?! Thanks for keeping us entertained mate, take care.
Love these videos vince!! I’m currently in the works of an Xbox one with a cracked hdmi replaced it but the pads have come off the board so I’m currently running 8 tracks to the pins! Definitely something I would never suggest doing 🤣
Good video Vince. I think if you try to reball you need correct stencil and use solder paste that is less messy and more acurate vs the solder balls. And thanks for your vids
I know it's a bit late now, but as you mentioned at the ending.. Something to try in the future. Hope this help either yourself or a viewer. I am only having a calculated stab in the dark with this. But... Did you notice the red light came on the controller but only when a picture appeared.? I don't know but is there a reset / rst line outlined in the schematic.? It should be a brief voltage change on that line at power on of the switch. Very important as all of the clock and data lines will then sync with each other. The voltage change might be just off giving the reset voltage but if you notice a "Flutter" on that line then help it out a bit by briefly taking that voltage to the potential it was trying to "Flutter" towards as it switches from standby. As you know a line above the reset or rst on the schematic indicates the voltage goes to ground to activate a reset.
Nice attempt Vince but don't give up on that GPU reball because I think you almost had it. It would be interesting to see you give it another go, just to see if it could actually be done. Then check for blown fuses and the NAND as the comments seen to point towards and I reckon you could actually bring that PS2 back to life. It would be amazing if you could.
No idea about how reballing works, but I think I would just put little strips of masking tape over the unused holes so the balls don't go in them, and as you said, do it over a container to catch the excess who fall off
X and Y capacitors are special Safety capacitors and are designed to fail closed or open respectively. Changing one for a normal electrolytic will work but you will not have the safety characteristics as designed by the manufacturer.
Pitty you couldn't get it to work but at least you tried your best and well done on your first attempt at the re-balling of the gpu. Practice makes perfect and great video as usual mate 👍👍👍👍
I loved this console.. The PS2 Slim was one of the best.. tiny and sleek And it was the first console I modded myself with a modchip when I was 15. So many memories!
it looks like a NAND problem since when you turn it on is goes "black" the ps2 will ALWAYS send video even without the bios loaded or loading anything and with no audio has more too do with the bios cant play the sounds
Fairly so, the nand is part of the board and the bios is a written piece of code made to be able to talk to the system from hardware to software and cannot do so if there is hardware failure. So if the nand is bad the bios is not accessible because the nand is not the bios but the home of the bios. If the nand works the bios will. the bios does not work the nand is bad but the fact that the no signal goes away means the bios is searching for a operating system in which case the controller(s) could be bad allowing Basic Input Output System (Bios) to function but not a furthermore advanced or physically more user friendly screen ( basically so you as the user don’t have to tell the ps2 what to do in a binary form) it hangs itself on the black screen waiting or looking for the operating system
This was a very nice video, Vince! I also like the Music Choice, you did on this one! It also looked like the reballing of the GPU could've needed some light pressure on the chip itself while bringing it back to the board. The distance between the board and chip did look some kind of too large. Maybe some balls didn't contact correct because of that. But this is just a guess. I was never able to do a reball myself. Keep doing these kind of videos! These are the best!
Vince, what's the song name/artist at around 42:00 mark? it's been driving me mad, can't even find it by lyrics and such.. Also, can you send over some of your patience? it's amazing how meticulous you are.. I get so many endorphins when YOU manage to fix something! Even when you don't, it's still therapeutic watching your thought process and your attempts.
Thanks for the video man . Would it be possible to make a video showing your electronic repair equipment, solder station etc. I am trying to start getting some stuff together to help me repair some stuff around the house and would love if you did a video on the stuff you use and recommend .Might be a good add on to the channel, to test some different equipment and tools in the future and give the viewers your thoughts on them ,it would be very helpful and interesting.Thanks Vince
Hi mate, I'm pretty sure you're supposed to reflow the balls on the chip after you take the stencil off before putting it on the board as this will even them all out.
Great video, man! Out of my three PS2 units, two Phats and one Slimline, one of my Phats developed a graphical problem while playing the final moments of Gradius V. Since then, the blue orbs disappear completelly in the browser and the cubes screen won't show any cubes but a horribly flashing screen. Sprites and fonts all show ok, but polygon rendering seems to be broken. The gigantic red spheres in Gradius V first stage gave place to a red garbled screen based on the same texture. The date and time battery will affect the aforementioned blue orbs movements, but won't affect the in-game graphics, right?
with the reflow on the balls. You could try putting a thin coat of flux over where the balls will go. When adding the balls they will only stick to the correct pattern and when heating they will melt and stick quicker. The chip will be less likely to warp with less heat. I think you need to apply a little pressure on the chip when flowing onto the board (if someone can confirm or tell us the correct way).
Hi vince, great vids keep up the good work..always love the satisfaction response from you when you manage to repair stuff 🙂. Just out of curiosity what brand of flux do you use?
I think this had a GPU issue Very weak to show display and as after 1/50 goes, gpu must have at least some power to show something on the TV but like Ash said, it goes blank after a game which games uses more graphics which is more power Must be a fault on the GPU No cracked solder I think the GPU didn’t become recognised at the end because of the warped chip, it must’ve of been destroyed something internally when it got warped. There is no way there are bridges underneath the chip Not your fault Vince, reballing is a pain and hard job and I salute the people who take their time out to do a tedious task just for a 15% success rate Nice video Vince
Just past 15 minutes in you mentioned if it does RGB or not, it does do component (PS2) n also has pins for S-video signal as well. I'd used S-video on mine for a few years then switched to a sony component cable which actually was marked as for the PS3 but those pinoutes are the same.
Your videos are called trying to fix for a reason. In any way it was a really interesting video. If I think back how small the PS2 slim was in compare to the original this was really cool. The PS2 is still the best console Sony ever made and had some of the best games in my opinion.
Not sure if it's been mentioned but I think you lost continuity back tracing on your 1st attempt to that chip because you removed the capacitor and after replacing it you got continuity back
You definitely do not waste our time on these videos Vince. Not every repair is successful, and the fact you show your failures just proves that we aren't magic and we can only do our best. Great video as always
Geat video!
I just love these “trying to fix”-episodes! Every new video feels like a tiny adventure! Keep up being awesome Vince! ❤️
He's my favorite TH-camr
He makes it so simple
Heyy hello! If you like this maybe you will like the content in my channel as well.. please check it out!
@@DirenDeez ooo
"Remember that this is just for entertainment and I am not an expert in these repairs.", mate, i would beg to differ, the patience and methodical way you approach this sorta thing is very impressive....its almost therapy watching these!
I'm an electronics engineer and I agree .. Vince's patience and methodical approach puts me to shame 😂
So true brother lol. Totally relaxed me. 😁😁😁
Excellent video, we went from capacitor changes to gpu reflow to gpu reball, had me on the edge of my seat. Also loved the start where we are shown his good working unit, that we all know will be used for parts. Keep up the great work.
I always chuckle when I hear you say “I’ve been beaten!” And there’s an hour left in the video. Love the videos. Just started watching the channel. Thanks for all the really great information you share.
I would say that even though you didn't fix it, you learned a good skill. Your videos are high quality. Hi!
My Mate Vince I learned something new from you today. I had no idea that you could use a universal stencil like you did and just push the balls off that aren’t needed. I’ve struggled with trying to tape the areas off and it never worked. Thanks brother this was a good try. I like that you show, what others may not, the failures that every technician deals with from time to time. Thank you 🙏🏻
Finally a PS2 video!
I work fixing those and Power On no signal are a PAIN. But u don't have one of those.
The NAND on this PS2 is bad!
100% not a video problem.
Try to reflow/change the chip.
Also, at the end of the video, most likelly u got a short on the CPU
@My mate VINCE So recently "Xbox" has released a bunch of faulty controllers specifically the (Xbox series 2) and with this series 2 controller there are many faults that lots of people are having. Most notably the( Lb and Rb buttons) the buttons them self typically arnt broken however tend to be 80% unresponsive unless you used so much pressure you'll more than likely damage the controller. Other faults tend to be the face buttons, if you would please look at one controller and see if you can fault find the trigger Buttons on the back. Sure you'll be a Microsoft community hero, because everyone is scared to lose the warranty and most of us arnt experienced like you. Sorry for the long paragraph, but I feel like of you were to do this you'd push Microsoft in a direction to make reliable controllers instead of money grabbing us for faulty flashy controllers.
@@ricardopeacockii719 return, refund if you can even the elite controllers are trash. There is a class action lawsuit going on right now on elite controllers
@@poopfeast-kg1lv I wish I could return, but Walmart decided to not give me a warranty I paid for what do I do now
Thank you Dandy, which one is the NAND? I searched online and I couldn't find it. Also can it be lifted from a working console and swapped or does it need to be flashed or something :-)
Keep up the good work. If someone thinks you just wasting our time should not watch your videos. In my opinion they are always interesting and educational. I learned few things from them for example I was able to change the analog stick in my swich joycon. Thank you mate.
I thoroughly enjoyed watching you attempt to re-ball the chip, it was a good learning experience and fun to watch.
Liking the new music! Nice change from the usual classical!
And it's still interesting watching this videos, even when the repair
is a failure. I, myself, just like watching the process of fault-finding
and attempting a repair by replacing various components.
With the large number of more 'professional' TH-cam channels,
it's always a nice a find and a reminder of the humble beginnings
of TH-cam, when you find an amateur channel, just having fun.
It's far more interesting not knowing the outcome of the video, anyway!
Anyone know what song that was? Singer sounds familiar.
@@brianoliver9224 The song is Pressure, by Candelion. It's part of her brand new album, just released this year.
Thanks for the hard work. Actually fixing it would be a bonus but not necessary. There is great value in determining what isn't the problem. It might be mentally rough but learning the hard way is learning that sticks
I’m amazed since the day the PS2 slim came out how much they made it smaller compared to the original console. Quiet impressive.
Was great to hang out with you Vince and I Always enjoy the show!
Thank you Clifford :-)
No apology needed Vince! Always enjoy your videos.
You can't win them all, but we always learn something new with each foray into the technical repair realm. 100% enjoyed this video and all of your content, never stop doing what you love!
The PS2 display cable is proprietary, but it's pretty basic. As Vince found out, the Composite cable only has four wires, and the Component cables you'd use for 480p output looks exactly the same but has two more wires.
The older PS3 also uses this same proprietary cable as the PS2 if you don't want to use HDMI, so it's backwards hardware compatible regarding the display.
Mine has the exact same issue, have been searching far and wide for answers. Thanks for your help! Hopefully one day it will get solved
"I'll be the first one in it" - the dream of every man.
"Oooooh, naughty naughty".
- My Mate VINCE
😜🤪😂🤣
@@Kamil-DIY you’ll get it one day lol
@@Kamil-DIY one of the slim ps2 models has 3 screws instead of 4, i tried to put one there thinking someone removed when i realized the case had a bump and it wouldn't close with a screw in it.
We learn from your experience regardless of the outcome! Keep up the good work.
hey Vince, nice try at BGA rework! I think you did a pretty decent job on reballing. One thing I'd say, once you reballed it, you should have put flux on the chip itself and given it another heat to help align the balls and make them more uniform before placing the chip to be soldered down. This also helps you ensure that no shorts happen in the soldering process
Thanks for the tip Dark Samus :-)
Vince, this is NAND related. the BIOS is searching, that's what sends power to image port, getting rid of the "no input" on screen, from there it reads NAND for OS, which shows as the Playstation startup screen. It was a prevalent issue with the PS2 Slim.
Thanks Joe :-) Do you know which chip on this board is the NAND and whether it can be swapped from another PS2 Slim. I know it is too late for this PS2 but it might be useful for future fixes :-)
Possible you blew a fuse when you accidentally bridged the GPU during the reflow? Just a guess from my limited knowledge on ps2 faults and the green to red light.
Vince your videos are awesome and what you and Steve is doing made me to watch every single video that you both upload,Thank you once again,being fan for a very long time Mate
Try to check the USB ports, sometimes a USB port can make shorted to the board. Also it could be the controller ports. Nice video!
i work with Xbox 360 hardware, 90% of the time when there is no power, its almost always the USB ports. bend them so they aren't touching the port itself, and watch it spin to life. gamers destroy a lot of USB ports when they rage in COD4
Awesome try to fix PS2 slim video sorry to hear that you couldn't fix it but hey it was a learning experience for all us watching. Anyway can't wait to see more videos.
Should have tested those 8 array 47 ohm Resistors in between the GS GPU and the EE CPU. That was likely the culprit of the black screen fault. PS2's don't have BGA issues. The solder underneath is plenty good.
Vince, thank you SO very much. You have gone through the whole thinking process and given us all that knowledge about problem solving techniques. You have no idea how important your videos are for beginners like me. May the Lord bless you my friend 👍
I was rooting for you! And like kotm3 says, wasn't expecting to see a reball job. Certainly an excellent first attempt (I've never done it, I lack the skillset) - thumbs up for attempt!
As the proud owner of a non-working PS 2, I do appreciate these videos. (I am fairly certain that my problem relates to a dirty laser, but I have not yet taken it apart to test my theory.)
My PS2 barely works, it just needs a new laser though.
You could get Free Mcboot on a memory card and then load disc images from HDD (fat) or from a PC fileshare over ethernet (USB is too slow).
Dazed I could, but I’m not going to.
Laser is fairly cheap and not hard to replace
@@earlspencer7863True but they have a limited lifespan. After the new one goes, it needs to be replaced yet again. Eventually there will be no more and then what? In the garage it goes
still such an interesting video without the fix, the reballing was especially interesting. Thanks Vince
I’m glad when he uploads it brings joy to a bad day
I repaired several ps2 slim with the same problem and you only had to reball the chip cxr726080
Should that solution work on a 9k series with audio but no video?
i have one gh-052-51 board, what could be the problem ? is a bit kind a different than this board
For real?
hey mate, been following you for like ... ever. just wanted to send some appreciation for this kidna content, gave me the confidence to do and learn repairs myself. ur awesome keep up the learning!
I agree with you, Vince, it makes it more interesting wondering whether you will be successful or not. Still interesting to watch even the times you don’t manage to fix what you’re working on
34:32 the three “test points” appear to have traces hidden underneath. If you use the < > keys, you can pause the video and go frame-by-frame. I see small lines that appear to be traces going under the much larger chip when there is a glare going over that area.
ive always loved how beautifully easy and straightforward it is to strip down a ps2
ive always loved how beautifully easy and straightforward it is to break down a ps2
Not the fat version 😅😂😂
Best console to work on. Laser replace easy peasy.
Use some kapton tape to secure the stencil to the chip when doing a bga reflow, cover up the unnecessary sockets with the tape too. Yes this will take some time to do but it guarantees a clean adhesion and minimizes the amount of balls to what is needed.
I really love these kinds of videos.
Did you check all the fuses on the board. They have 10,15,20, 50 on top of them. also labeled ps15 ps10 etc.
I was not expecting to see a reball job! Well done vince! You’ll be fixing ylod and the ring of death soon!!
He did do ylod, its not the gpu its the tantalum caps that need replacement. People thought it was the gpu reflowing because the caps are right below the gpu and reballing the gpu heated the caps and brought the ps3 back to life temporarily
Its the same with red light errors on an xbox 360, some are gpu and cpu related and others can be dodgy caps, southbridge, ram memory and even iffy hard drives...
I have 4 PS2, but unfortunately they all work fine. Best console ever. Interesting to see Vince fault-finding around the board.
James Higgs
Unfortunately?
@@peenSuperLoser yeah, I like fixing stuff :)
This video was NOT a waste. It really is still a learning experience even if we dont fix anything. Cant win them all is what i always say.
Just found your channel I do the same type of repairs. This video was AWESOME.
Thanks Vince I thought it was only me that couldn’t fix stuff 🤣. New to electronics and most of the stuff I’ve tried can’t find issues or change components and it still doesn’t work, but I will keep persevering 👍
This is an after work video for me, thanks Vince
Use masking tape to cover the surplus holes when reballing.
That might be hard
yeah heat resistant tape would be a good idea for covering the holes not used by the graphics chip.
I was thinking Kapton tape, but actually it doesn't matter. Tape over the areas that don't need solder, fill the remainder, then remove excess balls and the tape. I'd have also tried reflowing the balls once the stencil was removed, that might've allowed the couple of slightly off position ones to move right on to the pads. Good video though
Never seen a PS2 apart. Interesting and great video Vince.
You really need a scope to debug problems like this. Your TV detects a signal, which means the line sync is generated by the video signal chip you de-soldered. This chip is working (as you proved) , it just doesn't seem to get any input. The input of this chip comes from the GPU. You need to take your working board and compare signals one by one. Probably your GPU is not sending any signal to the video signal chip because your CPU is not booting correctly. You can also use your scope to check the ripple on the CPU supply voltage, or the chip selects (and data and address lines) toward the ROM (NAND) memory.
Corrupted nand. Scope would be nice but this one was easy to diagnose since it booted occasionally.
Same issue on my ps2. But it generates no output in the video(4015 chip). I also checked audio with scope and there is no activity on those rails also. I then pointed at the 4015 input and there is nothing there either. All the chips get warm. Lens assembly moves up and down in a controlled manner. But no signal. on the AV.
Thanks for the Video. I have a Slim PS2 Myself. Last time I used it touch anywhere near the video cable port and you can hear horrible humming on the TV but touch it again it goes away. Now I know what it looks like and I was thinking about trying my hand at fixing.
1)Check for damages on the AV cable and/or the AV port.
2)Check for dried/cold joints on the AV port. If you're lucky, you'll just need to add solder. If not, some cold joints need to rebuild the trace. Also check Power supply port, they're prone to have cold joints due to the way Sony placed them on the PCB.
always a joy to watch your vids vince.
Enjoyed this one as always, Vince. Agree totally with what you said at the end - it’s more exciting when you don’t know the outcome. I’m always rooting for you though! 😊
Mine went temperamental like that just before it died. It died when the modchip failed. It was semi repairable when that happened though and would actually start up when the modchip was bypassed but not every time. It only lasted for a short period before dying completely. I don't think this applies here though because there is no modchip on your board.
100 percent right best to show the failures.. that's what real life is all about... how disappointed would people be if they thought every time they try to fix something they will succeed? and maybe not for others but i have learned some things from this video even though it didn't get fixed.....like how to even begin tracing a fault... at the start i was thinking where the hell is he even going to start with this its such a weird fault but then you go right down to the single video input signal on one single pin and follow the whole thing.. better luck next time :)
Nice try on bga!, you've changed every single power regulator ic on the board except the big 5v LDO in the middle which is responsible for audio and video chips
BGA, You need to clean the pads on the chips so that they all nice and shiny , not greyed like on 1:04:22 top left corner and on the top row , before putting on the stencil put a very thin layer of flux on the chip then the stencil then the balls after heating and melting the balls ,Remove the stencil remove all the balls that is not used, Apply flux and reflow all the ball so that they become nice and round again, Great video 👍😊
Sounds good Anonymous, thank you :-)
Tough luck Vince, I am sure this will be a revisit video, but this was still interesting and I love the way you go about fault finding, it gives me food for thought, plus like you say if every video was a success, then where is the tension of waiting to see if we get a Vince "YEEEESSSSS" at the end?! Thanks for keeping us entertained mate, take care.
Love these videos vince!! I’m currently in the works of an Xbox one with a cracked hdmi replaced it but the pads have come off the board so I’m currently running 8 tracks to the pins! Definitely something I would never suggest doing 🤣
i don't care about that ps2 machine.yours attempt to fix and attitude that make me subscribed,keep the good work👍
Good video Vince. I think if you try to reball you need correct stencil and use solder paste that is less messy and more acurate vs the solder balls. And thanks for your vids
I know it's a bit late now, but as you mentioned at the ending..
Something to try in the future.
Hope this help either yourself or a viewer. I am only having a calculated
stab in the dark with this. But...
Did you notice the red light came on the controller but only when a picture appeared.?
I don't know but is there a reset / rst line outlined in the schematic.?
It should be a brief voltage change on that line at power on of the switch.
Very important as all of the clock and data lines will then sync with
each other.
The voltage change might be just off giving the reset voltage but if
you notice a "Flutter" on that line then help it out a bit by briefly taking
that voltage to the potential it was trying to "Flutter" towards as it switches
from standby.
As you know a line above the reset or rst on the schematic indicates the
voltage goes to ground to activate a reset.
Nice attempt Vince but don't give up on that GPU reball because I think you almost had it. It would be interesting to see you give it another go, just to see if it could actually be done. Then check for blown fuses and the NAND as the comments seen to point towards and I reckon you could actually bring that PS2 back to life. It would be amazing if you could.
Damn, 1:32AM for me right now... Still I hope it will be a great video...
damm uk idiots
I watch for 1 hr and I find it entertaining.
No idea about how reballing works, but I think I would just put little strips of masking tape over the unused holes so the balls don't go in them, and as you said, do it over a container to catch the excess who fall off
X and Y capacitors are special Safety capacitors and are designed to fail closed or open respectively. Changing one for a normal electrolytic will work but you will not have the safety characteristics as designed by the manufacturer.
in PSUs, connected to mains/earth yes, but THIS has nothing to do with capacitor classification, that's only the batch/date-code
Nice long video just we needed keep them coming bro
This is way different than any video I have seen! You should do more PS2 videos!!
Man you are very determined and patient, greetings from Egypt 😉
Pitty you couldn't get it to work but at least you tried your best and well done on your first attempt at the re-balling of the gpu. Practice makes perfect and great video as usual mate 👍👍👍👍
I had the same ps2 slim on 1 second and right away off issue a while back, thanks Vince now i know why my ps2 stopped working!
I really enjoyed this video, it had plenty of entertainment value.
Interesting video as usual. I didn't know anything about doing solder "balling". As always, thanks for sharing the adventures.
I loved this console.. The PS2 Slim was one of the best.. tiny and sleek And it was the first console I modded myself with a modchip when I was 15. So many memories!
Just by trying to fix an PS2 SLIM i'm loving this vídeo.
Damn bro I haven't heard the ps2 start up in like 10 years bro😂😂
it looks like a NAND problem since when you turn it on is goes "black" the ps2 will ALWAYS send video even without the bios loaded or loading anything and with no audio has more too do with the bios cant play the sounds
the bios would have corrupted if that were the case especially with the chips he moved so I don’t think that’s it
Fairly so, the nand is part of the board and the bios is a written piece of code made to be able to talk to the system from hardware to software and cannot do so if there is hardware failure. So if the nand is bad the bios is not accessible because the nand is not the bios but the home of the bios. If the nand works the bios will. the bios does not work the nand is bad but the fact that the no signal goes away means the bios is searching for a operating system in which case the controller(s) could be bad allowing Basic Input Output System
(Bios) to function but not a furthermore advanced or physically more user friendly screen ( basically so you as the user don’t have to tell the ps2 what to do in a binary form) it hangs itself on the black screen waiting or looking for the operating system
I was thinking too that this could a BIOS problem
Modchip can help with this
bekkaa how so? I’ve never been to into mods
Nice little surprise! Hope you adn your family are safe mate
This was a very nice video, Vince! I also like the Music Choice, you did on this one!
It also looked like the reballing of the GPU could've needed some light pressure on the chip itself while bringing it back to the board. The distance between the board and chip did look some kind of too large. Maybe some balls didn't contact correct because of that. But this is just a guess. I was never able to do a reball myself.
Keep doing these kind of videos! These are the best!
Vince, what's the song name/artist at around 42:00 mark? it's been driving me mad, can't even find it by lyrics and such..
Also, can you send over some of your patience? it's amazing how meticulous you are.. I get so many endorphins when YOU manage to fix something!
Even when you don't, it's still therapeutic watching your thought process and your attempts.
Pressure - Candelion ft Le June
Thanks for the video man . Would it be possible to make a video showing your electronic repair equipment, solder station etc. I am trying to start getting some stuff together to help me repair some stuff around the house and would love if you did a video on the stuff you use and recommend .Might be a good add on to the channel, to test some different equipment and tools in the future and give the viewers your thoughts on them ,it would be very helpful and interesting.Thanks Vince
Hi mate, I'm pretty sure you're supposed to reflow the balls on the chip after you take the stencil off before putting it on the board as this will even them all out.
you don't have to, but it looks better and leads to less risks of the balls bridging when you re-solder it to the board.
Vince i saw your video it made my day ❤
Hi Vince love your channel can I ask where u get your flux applicator from thanks kev
It might not work, but I've never watched anyone reball a chip before, so that was interesting!
Great video, man! Out of my three PS2 units, two Phats and one Slimline, one of my Phats developed a graphical problem while playing the final moments of Gradius V. Since then, the blue orbs disappear completelly in the browser and the cubes screen won't show any cubes but a horribly flashing screen. Sprites and fonts all show ok, but polygon rendering seems to be broken. The gigantic red spheres in Gradius V first stage gave place to a red garbled screen based on the same texture. The date and time battery will affect the aforementioned blue orbs movements, but won't affect the in-game graphics, right?
At 10:41, where did you buy these capacitors? and how can you have many of them?
with the reflow on the balls. You could try putting a thin coat of flux over where the balls will go. When adding the balls they will only stick to the correct pattern and when heating they will melt and stick quicker. The chip will be less likely to warp with less heat. I think you need to apply a little pressure on the chip when flowing onto the board (if someone can confirm or tell us the correct way).
Hi vince, great vids keep up the good work..always love the satisfaction response from you when you manage to repair stuff 🙂. Just out of curiosity what brand of flux do you use?
Vince is well on his way to becoming a real baller.
That's why soldering without bottom heather and thermal profile is a bad taste.
But I fully hoped that you would fix it.
Awesome video, I learned a lot and it was really entertained, thank you sir.
Please keep it up and keep sharing these videos.
I think this had a GPU issue
Very weak to show display and as after 1/50 goes, gpu must have at least some power to show something on the TV but like Ash said, it goes blank after a game which games uses more graphics which is more power
Must be a fault on the GPU
No cracked solder
I think the GPU didn’t become recognised at the end because of the warped chip, it must’ve of been destroyed something internally when it got warped. There is no way there are bridges underneath the chip
Not your fault Vince, reballing is a pain and hard job and I salute the people who take their time out to do a tedious task just for a 15% success rate
Nice video Vince
Enjoyed watching this video Vince PS2 was my favourite console of all time shame it didnt work but u did try your best
Just past 15 minutes in you mentioned if it does RGB or not, it does do component (PS2) n also has pins for S-video signal as well. I'd used S-video on mine for a few years then switched to a sony component cable which actually was marked as for the PS3 but those pinoutes are the same.
Love your videos brother keep em coming Love from Australia
Your videos are called trying to fix for a reason. In any way it was a really interesting video. If I think back how small the PS2 slim was in compare to the original this was really cool. The PS2 is still the best console Sony ever made and had some of the best games in my opinion.
Good vid Vince. I foresee the Banggood express having a run on those cheap Chinese reballing jigs!!
Got a link to the reballing kit Vince?
I need a new one mine is pants compared to your should have spent a bit more!
Not sure if it's been mentioned but I think you lost continuity back tracing on your 1st attempt to that chip because you removed the capacitor and after replacing it you got continuity back