THANK YOU THANK YOU. I am NOT a mechanic but I followed your video and succeeded in realigning my 2011 Ford Explorer timing chain, which had a code "P0017 crankshaft position camshaft position correlation Bank 1 Sensor B" after replacing my water pump. To clear the code, I tried changing my sensors without success, so I opened the vehicle again and realigned the timing chain following your instructions. I was a tooth off. My Ford drives like new now. You saved me a lot of money, thank you thank you.
im right there with you on this i just got my 2015 explorer back together from pump replacment and didnt get the back cam right 1 notch off. opening it back up
I did my first timing chain job on a 3.5 explorer and the chain was slapping. Your video reassured me that it’s okay to do without oil. You’re the best man
You made my day thanks for the video it took my 16hrs to do the job on jacks Stands on my ford flex I spend $300 on parts … my dealer wanted to charge me $4500 … but thank you and god I did it godbless 🙏
Nice work, Mike! Wow - the engineering on this one is mind-blowing! One 6 foot chain and two 18" chains to run a pair of cams! Note to self: NEVER take a Ford 3.5 for free! 😂
@@SmittySmithsonite yea, but they're not that expensive used, but I've never had a bad ford though, I've had a lot, mine,my familys, and friends, all were sold of traded in for.smethjng different with well over 200k, but I maintained most of them, and im religious about maintanance
@@richsweeney1115 Sure, built before 2007. I’ve got an ‘86 Grand Marquis that has 299,000 miles on the original driveline, and original fuel pump. Still runs like a top! You won’t get that kind of mileage out of anything newer than a ‘15 without major engine work, I can guarantee.
Nice demo, I've never done one in a fusion, but the explorer and Taurus take me 6 hours give or take doing it in the vehicle. Evac the a/c and remove the big suction hose across the front of the motor makes it easier, just do a couple trial runs with the cover before putting on the rtv, you can also just put the rtv on the engine instead of the cover.
did that and thought i covered everything but the darned thing is leaking. i need to pull it out like this video- no idea how to do that. will have to study it...
Thanks for another great video Mike! A job well done! Such a stupid design as to the engineers that would put a water pump full of coolant inside the timing cover like that. I remember doing a balance shaft chain special policy TSB on the newer GM 2.4 ECOTEC engine. I think it was a 2011 Buick Regal. I remember those timing marks would never line up no matter how many times you rotate the engine. I shortly found out that you have to make your own timing marks and go by that. As long as the cams and the crank are lined up then you are good to go. I feel the same as you do as some of these GM and other engines don't give me the confidence in my work because the stuff don't line up as they should. The warranty times on those were horrendous and only paid 4.8 hours to do including the high pressure fuel pump. Needless to say after I finished that job the engine ran great and had no more problems.
Good job Mike. Lotta work just to change the water pump. My Wife's 06 (timing belt)Kia, and my 06 (timing chains) Nissan both have the water pump "under the covers."
I would always replace the guides. Wear isn't the only issue to be concerned with. From many heat cycles the plastic becomes brittle over time and will break up and delaminate and then clog the oil pump screen. I would also oil the guides and chains prior to re-assembly.
Absolutely awesome presentation and explanation and instructions on this Job. We own a 2016 explorer and will probably be getting this job done soon since it has 111000 thousand miles on it.
I never removed engine yet on the 3.5 ford for water pump. Or yet on 3.6 gm timing chain job yet. Always do them in vehicle working on them. Usually can’t tie up a lift that’s why don’t usually pull them out. Thanks Mike as always.
Hey Chad, thanks for watching! Are you beating the book on those jobs doing them in the car? My biggest concern with in the car is the lack of clearance causing smugged RTV resulting in a leak after the fact. Mike Becker, Senior Instructor
in the 2012 taurus (what I'm stuck with) I've now learned you HAVE to remove it. i thought i did a great job, but the unibody gets in the way and apparently i didn't put the black rv sealant on right. 3 weeks later it's leaking badly all over.
I had a 2011 Taurus 3.5 and bought the 100k mile extended warranty. The water pump went out at 104k miles. Coolant flooded the lube system and ruined the engine. Shame on me, I traded it for a 2015 Taurus 3.5 and the same happened at 115k mi. Both had religious service at the dealership.
Wow Ford has a habit of making common jobs like alternators and water pumps be extremely labor-intensive for no reason at all...would never own a Ford V6 personally just for this reason!! :)
Yes Sir. The water pump is driven by the timing chain. This engine is 1 of the top 10 most reliable ford engines have ever produced. Yep sucks when water pump fails. But other then that mist everything is pretty easy to deal with.
i seen guys do these in 7-8 hours sometimes 6 without pulling the engine these are fairly simple i like taking my time when doing these we get almost 14 hours for these
@@scottmitchellrose1732 I have no knowledge of a video. I am a Ford technician and have done this several times,it isn’t difficult. Keep this in mind, this vehicle was designed for easy assembly and the power train assembly is a plug and play. The wire harness and the battery cables will stay with the engine assembly, disconnect from fuse box/ battery. AC will need to be evacuated but compressor remains on engine along with the lines on the compressor, follow them to the connections and remove. Two heater hoses and radiator hoses above the trans at back of engine plus the two hoses at coolant bottle. Exhaust Y-pipe stays on engine, disconnects just past the frame assembly if not rusted to badly. Don’t be afraid to give yourself room to work, remove the cooling fans and radiators if needed. Remove the trans cooler lines at the transmission. Fuel line and vapor lines at the right side bulkhead area, disconnect them. Remove the vacuum line at brake booster. Of course the chassis parts will need to be disconnected, remove the struts from the top at the body, take them with the power train, remove the calipers but hang them from the body don’t separate the lines. You will need to disconnect the upper control arms from the knuckle. Tips… when lowering power train, do it slowly looking for anything that was forgotten or got hung up. Be aware, when the spring/shocks disengage the body they will tip outward, this can cause the inner axle/CV joints to pull apart. To stop this, tie the steering knuckle to the lower control are, wire or bungee cord will work. Don’t cheap out, use a Motorcraft pump, Mahle valve cover gaskets are the factory parts and fit better than Fel-Pro. A timing chain and tension is strongly recommended, the guides seldom need replacement unless broken. Rock Auto has these parts. Good luck. The steering shaft will need to be disconnected from the gear. If hydraulic steering, there is a cooler line on the left front corner that connects the area of radiator. If electronic steering the power& ground is connected around the fuse box/ battery area, network wires are on the forward part of the frame that you’ll be removing disconnect these, leaving the steering gear bolted on the frame.
PRODIGY Go Tech Mike Becker My teacher Loved it From the start to finish tutorial 👌 thank you very much for sharing it Please when can you carryout Voltage Drop testing on vehicles Please Take care and have a great Evening 👍 Happy Wrenching Go Tech Mike Becker From Nick Ayivor from London England UK 🇬🇧
Hey Nick, thanks for watching bud! I'm still trying to find a good car to show some good voltage drop testing on. Don't worry, we haven't forgot about it ;) Mike Becker, Senior Instructor
Na I work at GM and do those they are gravy. 20 hours labour get it done in like 6. There is certain model or 2 where you really have to remove the engine but most you dont. Removing the engine is like an hour anyway.
Hey guys, to each their own. I prefer to pull them. I get the powertrain down quickly and feel better about the work I perform with all of the room to work on it that I need. Mike Becker, Senior Instructor
A friend of mine did not remove it on a 15 chrysler 300. Easiest job as you only need to remove the lower pan to across the timing cover bolts to completely remove it.
PROBABLY THE WORST IDEA FORD EVER CAME UP WITH TO PLACE THE WATER PUMP INTERNALLY. I HEAR THEY ARE ALSO VERY EXPENSIVE TO BUY. THEN IF THE CUSTOMER DOES NOT CATCH IT IN TIME THE BEARINGS GET WIPED OUT IN THE ENGINE. AND TO TOP IT OFF A DIRECT INJECTED ENGINE. SORRY BUT IN MY OPINION A TROUBLE MAKER THE LONGER IT IS ON THE ROAD.
Yeh, you aren't wrong. A failure of the component can cause major issues. Unfortunately, like Sammy said, they are all doing it now. Mike Becker, Senior Instructor
@Helicopter Dad! I am not familiar with a 3.5 in a fusion, but the newer Taurus/explorer I have never dropped the power train for just a water pump. I can bang them out in about 4 hours.
Thanks for the wonderful installation video. It sure sucks to have to drop the engine just to replace a water pump which is a fairly common replacement for most cars.
I’m about finished with my Ford Explorer water pump, timing chain, vvt solenoid, alternator, spark plugs, radiator hoses, thermostat, fan belt, fan belt tensioner change out, whew…not bad for 167,000 miles but yeah the dumbest design for a water pump placement. Just wait till Ford places the battery inside the fuel tank design on newer models 😂
Good job on this video. I "liked" and subscribed because you're very informative and easy to follow. (I'd like to know who the rocket scientist was that designed this engine and put the water pump where it is! What a royal PITA!). I haven't bought one of these cars yet, but, because of this, I think I'm going to go with a 2010 or later and the 3.0L engine. Thanks again!
Awesome job Mike! I am presently in the middle of this task on a 2014 Explorer Sport. I opted not to drop the subframe. Is the 3.5 that you have pulled in the video from the Taurus Limited? Do you have a video on the small chain replacement?
My question is our 2014 ford edge has 188k miles should we have this done? I'm just worried about it happening to my wife on the road. I don't lose much coolant but it does go down slightly in time no leaks but the tell tale is the oil filter or air conditioner compressor has coolant residue that's all I have had all these years.. Maybe it's seapage from the weep hole? we bought the edge 2 years old with 59,000 and now at 188,000 it's been a good vehicle I do oil changes myself at 3000-4000 miles no oil loss or burning.. Thank you for making the video well done
Hey Mich5 A, the weep hole for the waterpump is near the alternator and If i remember correctly, it will drip on the AC compressor. If you are leaking coolant out there, i'd highly suggest getting it changed before the problem gets worse.
How different is the 2014 ecoboost job? I only have 1 vct on each side and a mechanism over the phaser on each side? Is that the only difference you think?
Everything is beautiful shown. Isn't it worth measuring the valve clearance? How's so much work done? glasses pushers can be replaced. Maybe a few pieces do not have good play, but it requires unscrewing the shaft.
I didn't realize the marks wouldn't line back up after spinning so I turned the motor over a bunch of times hoping they would line back up to double check myself, like I used to do back in the day on my old small block Chevy's, but none of them line up but there exactly 4 links off on all 3 gears when the crank was in the 4 o'clock position and the cam tool fits on, so am I alright even those I turned the motor over a bunch of times by hand
thx for video! very helpful! mine is seized now from standing.. will try to turn it over by hand.. will see if i can save it now.. and then maybe strip it and change old water pump.. darn ford explorer mk5.. btw there is two types of water pumps with two rows of teeth are those for different version of engine ?
@@GoTechTraining I read it in service info somewhere. It was my first TSFI job and I was very paranoid cause I have read how finicky these engines are. Took a few minutes but it all worked out.
Another A+ PROFESSIONAL video, Mike! Thanks a million for your efforts! PS- any way that I can purchase a shirt or two to help support the channel? - Dave
Hey Dave, thanks for watching! Not at this exact moment. Hopefully we will have something soon that you can buy to show your support. At this time, watching and commenting is great :) Mike Becker, Senior Instructor
Hello, I agree, the engine does not not have to be dropped to do the job. But depending on how much room is in the engine bay (this was a Fusion). It is much easier to access the components with the engine out. ~Ryan
The primary chain tensioner was out way too far and a giveaway to the bad water pump bearings. You didn't show tightening the guide bolt behind the right camshaft sprocket. Careful when moving the camshafts without the tool locking it. A little too far and you could end up with bent valves. Good on mentioning disabling fuel or spark to build oil pressure and changing oil twice.
My friend had this issue recently and dealer scared them into getting a new engine, vs replacing water pump and chain. How soon was this issue caught, once the coolant started going into the crankcase? Do you have a concern of secondary damage? I am trying to figure out at which point in time you gotta give up on the engine vs rebuild it?
Hi Mike, great video, the fact that this can be done in the vehicle looks to be a pain, and the customer might not want to pay to take the eng. out but, I personally think the time factor between eng. removal and doing in the vehicle isn't worth the aggravation, I'd rather pull it. (My opinion) I think the job would go faster and smoother. So wouldn't the job time even out??
Why all buyers should research well before buying, even those who can't swing a wrench. I will avoid any engines with a water pump buried inside the crankcase. Those with rubber timing belts were bad enough. Imagine buying a car with this problem where the seller disguised the leaking water pump.
Thank you Alan for your comments. You saved my day. Just out of curiosity, I started trying, tired, and stopped. My hearty appreciation for your patience, Chief.
I'm trying to rotate the engine after I did all this and feels like the lifters are coming into contact with the valves everything is on time properly on all 3 chains
Hello Alfredo, The bucket lifters sit on top of the valves and are driven by the cam lobes to open the valves. Do you mean it feels like the valves are contacting the pistons? I would try and remove the spark plugs, the resistance you feel could just be the cylinders building compression on the compression stroke. Removing the spark plugs should rule this out. I hope this helps! ~Ryan Wilsing
@@GoTechTraining I've removed them already set the timing with tool I've looked inside the cylinder and don't see any contact of the cylinders. Using on demand for my info. Seeing if anyone else had similar issue this is the first.
Why is it necessary to remove the spark plugs in order to turn the crankshaft?? Can please explain I’m working on my explorer as I’m watching this 👁️👄👁️
Very informative video. Is there another way to verify you are on the compression stroke when you are timing the engine than solely relying on the three timing marks?
Sure, you could look at the position of the piston and the position of the cam lobes. The top dead center of compression will have the piston at the top of the cylinder and both valves closed. Mike Becker, Senior Instructor
@@GoTechTraining I’ve been doing research on this particular engine on how to time it before disassembly and I understand about cam lobes but not quite sure on where exactly the nose and base of the lobe should be in relation to the tappet underneath the lobe. Some videos I see both noses are facing 180 degrees from the tappet, then other videos I see they are facing all the way down touching the tappet or lifter. Sorry for the length of this response. I do appreciate any feedback. Thank you.
Hello goTech I have a 2009 ford Taurus with a 3.5 liter v6 engine like this one you working on.i lately was hearing a strange sound coming from the to part by the front valve cover left side where the timing assembly joins.so I could continue driving my car like that and it conk out on me on the road.later I try to start but it wouldn’t only the compressor pully turns I thought maybe my serpentine belt broke but it doesn’t look like it as the compressor pully spins around.do you think my timing change jump and mis align with the top camshaft gears?the car only has 58,000 original miles.i find rather strange my timing belt would go so quick.the other thing I was going to ask you where is the starter located? And is the starter that turns the crankshaft?
THANK YOU THANK YOU. I am NOT a mechanic but I followed your video and succeeded in realigning my 2011 Ford Explorer timing chain, which had a code "P0017 crankshaft position camshaft position correlation Bank 1 Sensor B" after replacing my water pump. To clear the code, I tried changing my sensors without success, so I opened the vehicle again and realigned the timing chain following your instructions. I was a tooth off. My Ford drives like new now. You saved me a lot of money, thank you thank you.
im right there with you on this i just got my 2015 explorer back together from pump replacment and didnt get the back cam right 1 notch off. opening it back up
I did my first timing chain job on a 3.5 explorer and the chain was slapping. Your video reassured me that it’s okay to do without oil. You’re the best man
My 2019 Taurus has been at the dealership for the water pump replacement. Thank God I purchased the 5 year 100k mile warranty.
You made my day thanks for the video it took my 16hrs to do the job on jacks Stands on my ford flex I spend $300 on parts … my dealer wanted to charge me $4500 … but thank you and god I did it godbless 🙏
Hey Rey, that's awesome! Congratulations on completing the repair yourself!!!!
Did you HAVE to remove the engine to do this?
Good review
You don't have to but it makes it significantly easier @@ghostmost2614
Nice work, Mike! Wow - the engineering on this one is mind-blowing! One 6 foot chain and two 18" chains to run a pair of cams! Note to self: NEVER take a Ford 3.5 for free! 😂
Hey Smitty, thanks for watching dude! Not a bad engine overall, besides this issue lol!
Mike Becker, Senior Instructor
My friend has a 2016 explorer, has 167k and maintains it really well, but hasn't touched the timing chain
@@richsweeney1115 Sometimes you get a good one. I'm not a gamblin' man, especially with $40,000, so I'll stick with my 30+ year old relics. 😁
@@SmittySmithsonite yea, but they're not that expensive used, but I've never had a bad ford though, I've had a lot, mine,my familys, and friends, all were sold of traded in for.smethjng different with well over 200k, but I maintained most of them, and im religious about maintanance
@@richsweeney1115 Sure, built before 2007. I’ve got an ‘86 Grand Marquis that has 299,000 miles on the original driveline, and original fuel pump. Still runs like a top! You won’t get that kind of mileage out of anything newer than a ‘15 without major engine work, I can guarantee.
my friend bought one of these that needs a water pump. this is some job to get through , whoa!
Hey Rory, hope they got the car cheap! It's a big job. Hopefully it hasn't run for a long time with coolant in the oil.
~Mike
Nice demo, I've never done one in a fusion, but the explorer and Taurus take me 6 hours give or take doing it in the vehicle. Evac the a/c and remove the big suction hose across the front of the motor makes it easier, just do a couple trial runs with the cover before putting on the rtv, you can also just put the rtv on the engine instead of the cover.
did that and thought i covered everything but the darned thing is leaking. i need to pull it out like this video- no idea how to do that. will have to study it...
I appreciate the great video. I am right at the point of taking off the chain and this gave me more confidence to get the job done correctly.
Hey Justin ,
You're welcome! Good luck on your repairs!
~Ryan
I started changing mine on a 07 Edge today, nice video, clear and concise
Hey Nathan, thanks! Hope the video helped you
Thanks for another great video Mike! A job well done! Such a stupid design as to the engineers that would put a water pump full of coolant inside the timing cover like that. I remember doing a balance shaft chain special policy TSB on the newer GM 2.4 ECOTEC engine. I think it was a 2011 Buick Regal. I remember those timing marks would never line up no matter how many times you rotate the engine. I shortly found out that you have to make your own timing marks and go by that. As long as the cams and the crank are lined up then you are good to go. I feel the same as you do as some of these GM and other engines don't give me the confidence in my work because the stuff don't line up as they should. The warranty times on those were horrendous and only paid 4.8 hours to do including the high pressure fuel pump. Needless to say after I finished that job the engine ran great and had no more problems.
Thanks for watching! Man, warranty/recall times are rough. I don't miss those days!
~Mike
@@GoTechTraining Thanks buddy. Nope, I don't miss it either 😆
Nice video Mike. Looks like one of those "just make it work while it's under warranty" designs. 😁
Hey Rick, thanks for watching! Yeh, we've been seeing that a little too often these days, right?
Mike Becker, Senior Instructor
Good job Mike. Lotta work just to change the water pump. My Wife's 06 (timing belt)Kia, and my 06 (timing chains) Nissan both have the water pump "under the covers."
Hey Mike, thanks! Yeh, it is...but hopefully it's the only time it will need to be replaced.
Mike Becker, Senior Instructor
Imagine being a Ford Tech doing that work often.
I would always replace the guides. Wear isn't the only issue to be concerned with. From many heat cycles the plastic becomes brittle over time and will break up and delaminate and then clog the oil pump screen. I would also oil the guides and chains prior to re-assembly.
100 revolutions and timing mark will line up. Great Video !
Hi Robert,
My arms are tired just thinking about 100 turns!
Glad you enjoyed it and thanks for supporting the channel!
~Ryan Wilsing
Absolutely awesome presentation and explanation and instructions on this Job.
We own a 2016 explorer and will probably be getting this job done soon since it has 111000 thousand miles on it.
My friend has a 2016 explorer with 167k, he maintains it well, but hasn't had to touch the timing chain or water pump, and has no bearing noise
I never removed engine yet on the 3.5 ford for water pump. Or yet on 3.6 gm timing chain job yet. Always do them in vehicle working on them. Usually can’t tie up a lift that’s why don’t usually pull them out.
Thanks Mike as always.
Hey Chad, thanks for watching! Are you beating the book on those jobs doing them in the car? My biggest concern with in the car is the lack of clearance causing smugged RTV resulting in a leak after the fact.
Mike Becker, Senior Instructor
Fusion is too tight, you must remove the engine
I haven’t yet to this day remove engine for timing chain job. On ford or gm vehicle
in the 2012 taurus (what I'm stuck with) I've now learned you HAVE to remove it. i thought i did a great job, but the unibody gets in the way and apparently i didn't put the black rv sealant on right. 3 weeks later it's leaking badly all over.
"Thank You My Brother " and may the Good Lord Bless You Always !
Hi Daniel,
Thanks for watching!
Beautifully done instructional video Mike! As always, thanks for the content.
Thanks a ton RP 502!
Mike Becker, Senior Instructor
Good to see you back Mike.
Hey D.D thanks for watching :)
Mike Becker, Senior Instructor
Nice work! Thanks for sharing Mike. You are always great on covering the unexpected details.
Thanks to this man and god my ford flex is running like new again I really appreciate awesome video godbless👌
Hey Rey,
You're welcome! Glad you got it fixed!
~Ryan
Much easier with the engine out of the car, but for many we have to work with the cramped conditions and hope for the best.
I had a 2011 Taurus 3.5 and bought the 100k mile extended warranty. The water pump went out at 104k miles. Coolant flooded the lube system and ruined the engine. Shame on me, I traded it for a 2015 Taurus 3.5 and the same happened at 115k mi. Both had religious service at the dealership.
Ford tough, tough , to repair.
Yeh, for sure. Not easy but necessary!
Thanks for teaching once again Mike 🙏and happy Sunday ✌️
Hey Salvador, thanks for watching! Happy Monday now 😀
Mike Becker, Senior Instructor
Happy Monday 🙏✌️
Thank you so much I'm hot into one of these right now and you answered a couple questions - much appreciated !
Hey Mark, thanks for watching man! Glad the video helped :)
~Mike
Awesome video... extremely helpful in getting the job done!!!
Awesome stuff Mike. 😎👍 I see Tom is in the background watching as well. 👀🤣
Cheers Bro.!
Hahhahaah thanks Kevin! You were the only one so far to catch Tom creepin in the background 😂
Mike Becker, Senior Instructor
@@GoTechTraining 😆😂😆 too funny bro.
I've heard of a Peeping Tom... But a first for a Creepin Tom.! 😂
Wow Ford has a habit of making common jobs like alternators and water pumps be extremely labor-intensive for no reason at all...would never own a Ford V6 personally just for this reason!! :)
Hey Mike, nice video!
Makes you wonder why this silly design, slap a normal bearing and put an external electric pump or 2.
Hey, thanks! There's a million ways to do it, right? They chose wrong here lol!
Mike Becker, Senior Instructor
Yes Sir. The water pump is driven by the timing chain. This engine is 1 of the top 10 most reliable ford engines have ever produced. Yep sucks when water pump fails. But other then that mist everything is pretty easy to deal with.
EXCELLENT VID. SHAME ON FORD FOR THIS DESIGN THO.
Great video.. I did this work for first time.. and I got scared because I saw the chain got like loose when I cycle..😅😅😅
i seen guys do these in 7-8 hours sometimes 6 without pulling the engine these are fairly simple i like taking my time when doing these we get almost 14 hours for these
No sense in rushing through it and causing a potential comeback, right? Thanks for watching!
Mike Becker, Senior Instructor
The 3.5 in the fusion is to close to the right frame rail, you must remove engine.
@@harrybalsonya5619 if you know of any videos on how to pull that whole front out like in this video please- let me know!
@@scottmitchellrose1732 I have no knowledge of a video. I am a Ford technician and have done this several times,it isn’t difficult. Keep this in mind, this vehicle was designed for easy assembly and the power train assembly is a plug and play.
The wire harness and the battery cables will stay with the engine assembly, disconnect from fuse box/ battery. AC will need to be evacuated but compressor remains on engine along with the lines on the compressor, follow them to the connections and remove. Two heater hoses and radiator hoses above the trans at back of engine plus the two hoses at coolant bottle. Exhaust Y-pipe stays on engine, disconnects just past the frame assembly if not rusted to badly. Don’t be afraid to give yourself room to work, remove the cooling fans and radiators if needed. Remove the trans cooler lines at the transmission. Fuel line and vapor lines at the right side bulkhead area, disconnect them. Remove the vacuum line at brake booster.
Of course the chassis parts will need to be disconnected, remove the struts from the top at the body, take them with the power train, remove the calipers but hang them from the body don’t separate the lines. You will need to disconnect the upper control arms from the knuckle.
Tips… when lowering power train, do it slowly looking for anything that was forgotten or got hung up. Be aware, when the spring/shocks disengage the body they will tip outward, this can cause the inner axle/CV joints to pull apart. To stop this, tie the steering knuckle to the lower control are, wire or bungee cord will work.
Don’t cheap out, use a Motorcraft pump, Mahle valve cover gaskets are the factory parts and fit better than Fel-Pro. A timing chain and tension is strongly recommended, the guides seldom need replacement unless broken. Rock Auto has these parts. Good luck.
The steering shaft will need to be disconnected from the gear. If hydraulic steering, there is a cooler line on the left front corner that connects the area of radiator. If electronic steering the power& ground is connected around the fuse box/ battery area, network wires are on the forward part of the frame that you’ll be removing disconnect these, leaving the steering gear bolted on the frame.
Thank you Harry!
After 40+ years I'm done with Ford
PRODIGY Go Tech Mike Becker
My teacher
Loved it From the start to finish tutorial 👌 thank you very much for sharing it
Please when can you carryout Voltage Drop testing on vehicles Please
Take care and have a great Evening 👍 Happy Wrenching
Go Tech Mike Becker
From Nick Ayivor from London England UK 🇬🇧
Hey Nick, thanks for watching bud! I'm still trying to find a good car to show some good voltage drop testing on. Don't worry, we haven't forgot about it ;)
Mike Becker, Senior Instructor
We do them right in the car. We don’t remove the engine with chassis. But the 3.6 you mentioned from GM, definitely remove the engine and chassis.
Na I work at GM and do those they are gravy. 20 hours labour get it done in like 6. There is certain model or 2 where you really have to remove the engine but most you dont. Removing the engine is like an hour anyway.
@@fuckjewtube69 Way less work if you take it out of the car you can have it done in six hours
Hey guys, to each their own. I prefer to pull them. I get the powertrain down quickly and feel better about the work I perform with all of the room to work on it that I need.
Mike Becker, Senior Instructor
A friend of mine did not remove it on a 15 chrysler 300. Easiest job as you only need to remove the lower pan to across the timing cover bolts to completely remove it.
PROBABLY THE WORST IDEA FORD EVER CAME UP WITH TO PLACE THE WATER PUMP INTERNALLY. I HEAR THEY ARE ALSO VERY EXPENSIVE TO BUY. THEN IF THE CUSTOMER DOES NOT CATCH IT IN TIME THE BEARINGS GET WIPED OUT IN THE ENGINE. AND TO TOP IT OFF A DIRECT INJECTED ENGINE. SORRY BUT IN MY OPINION A TROUBLE MAKER THE LONGER IT IS ON THE ROAD.
They all build that way, chev 3.5, honda 3.6, water pump same place.
Yeh, you aren't wrong. A failure of the component can cause major issues. Unfortunately, like Sammy said, they are all doing it now.
Mike Becker, Senior Instructor
@Helicopter Dad! I am not familiar with a 3.5 in a fusion, but the newer Taurus/explorer I have never dropped the power train for just a water pump. I can bang them out in about 4 hours.
@@mph5896 Where you located I have a 2008 Taurus X
I call BS on the 4 hours! 😂
Thanks for the wonderful installation video. It sure sucks to have to drop the engine just to replace a water pump which is a fairly common replacement for most cars.
Hey N Lwin, thanks for watching! It's not too bad of a job overall. Not cheap, but not a bad job.
Mike Becker, Senior Instructor
I’m about finished with my Ford Explorer water pump, timing chain, vvt solenoid, alternator, spark plugs, radiator hoses, thermostat, fan belt, fan belt tensioner change out, whew…not bad for 167,000 miles but yeah the dumbest design for a water pump placement. Just wait till Ford places the battery inside the fuel tank design on newer models 😂
Mike well done, preferred way to work on timing and water pump R&I Thank!
I do enjoy watching you!!!
Why thank you Roxanne!
~Mike
تشکر بسیار زیاد ❤ از افغانستان
Really nice video with the engine out of the car! 👍👍👍
It don’t need to be pulled but it makes it a lot more efficient and a ton of cuss words will be left out of vocab
Yep try putting that cover on when the motor in the car silicone for the cover hits everything when you try to put on
Hey Herbert, yeh, one mistake putting it on and you have a leak...time to do it again!
~Mike
excelente video bien explicado, mi pregunta es igual a f150 3.5 super crow 2013 se lo agradezco.gracias.
Good job on this video. I "liked" and subscribed because you're very informative and easy to follow. (I'd like to know who the rocket scientist was that designed this engine and put the water pump where it is! What a royal PITA!). I haven't bought one of these cars yet, but, because of this, I think I'm going to go with a 2010 or later and the 3.0L engine. Thanks again!
I’ve found the best way to fix a ford is to take it to your nearest salvage yard and give it to them. 😊
Great job Mike!
Thanks for watching Joseph!
Mike Becker, Senior Instructor
Great job 👍 Mike
Thanks Oscar! :)
~Mike
Awesome job Mike! I am presently in the middle of this task on a 2014 Explorer Sport. I opted not to drop the subframe. Is the 3.5 that you have pulled in the video from the Taurus Limited? Do you have a video on the small chain replacement?
Hey Oz man, thanks! This one was out of a 2011 Fusion Sport. Sorry, I did not replace the small chains and I do not have a video on it.
~Mike
If the camshaft holders fit nice and flush on both sides does that mean timing is good regardless of marks on timing chain?
Can you provide a parts list of what brands and parts you used? ..and there is no link for the cam holding tool???
My question is our 2014 ford edge has 188k miles should we have this done?
I'm just worried about it happening to my wife on the road.
I don't lose much coolant but it does go down slightly in time no leaks but the tell tale is the oil filter or air conditioner compressor has coolant residue that's all I have had all these years..
Maybe it's seapage from the weep hole?
we bought the edge 2 years old with 59,000 and now at 188,000 it's been a good vehicle I do oil changes myself at 3000-4000 miles no oil loss or burning..
Thank you for making the video well done
Hey Mich5 A, the weep hole for the waterpump is near the alternator and If i remember correctly, it will drip on the AC compressor. If you are leaking coolant out there, i'd highly suggest getting it changed before the problem gets worse.
Lisle makes those tools also and they are inexpensive and made in Iowa USA and available tons of places
Hi Jim,
Thanks for the tip! We will definitely check them out!
Thanks for reaching out!
~Ryan Wilsing
How different is the 2014 ecoboost job? I only have 1 vct on each side and a mechanism over the phaser on each side? Is that the only difference you think?
Great video . 🫡
Thanks so much!!!
~Mike
Everything is beautiful shown. Isn't it worth measuring the valve clearance? How's so much work done? glasses pushers can be replaced. Maybe a few pieces do not have good play, but it requires unscrewing the shaft.
I didn't realize the marks wouldn't line back up after spinning so I turned the motor over a bunch of times hoping they would line back up to double check myself, like I used to do back in the day on my old small block Chevy's, but none of them line up but there exactly 4 links off on all 3 gears when the crank was in the 4 o'clock position and the cam tool fits on, so am I alright even those I turned the motor over a bunch of times by hand
another job will not trade for in my shop thanks
I just did this on an 08 MKZ and DID NOT pull the motor. With a little extra work it can be done without having to pull the motor.
do you have a video on how to get to this stage? my timing cover still leaks- could not seal it right it seems - need to pull everything out. Thanks!
Great video
Thanks for watching Anthony!
Mike Becker, Senior Instructor
What's meads the reed color marks on the taming chain??.
Now what you what to do in this scenario is trade that thing in lol
A few years ago maybe! But now used cars are too much to let go!
Ryan Wilsing, Technical Instructor
Looks like a 2 hour water pump replacement job - when its on an engine stand ! A real pain when its in the vehicle with lots if room for errors.
Thank you, it help me a lot!!!
At how many miles it is recommended to replce the timing belt and pump?
Good job your are a good tech
thx for video! very helpful! mine is seized now from standing.. will try to turn it over by hand.. will see if i can save it now.. and then maybe strip it and change old water pump.. darn ford explorer mk5.. btw there is two types of water pumps with two rows of teeth are those for different version of engine ?
On a Audi/VW 2.0 TSFI engine, it's 168 turns to line marks back up.
Hey Steve,
Wow!
How did your arms feel the next day !
Good info!
Thanks for watching!
~Ryan Wilsing
@@GoTechTraining I read it in service info somewhere. It was my first TSFI job and I was very paranoid cause I have read how finicky these engines are. Took a few minutes but it all worked out.
Mike, a chain driven water pump is a super dumb design. How many hours labor was that job and how much was it? Lmk. Love your channel man.
Hey Jeremy, thanks for watching! Yeh, that's a 14 hour job or so.
Mike Becker, Senior Instructor
Another A+ PROFESSIONAL video, Mike! Thanks a million for your efforts!
PS- any way that I can purchase a shirt or two to help support the channel?
- Dave
Hey Dave, thanks for watching! Not at this exact moment. Hopefully we will have something soon that you can buy to show your support. At this time, watching and commenting is great :)
Mike Becker, Senior Instructor
t' these toque wrech's cam whit anglo degree included '????. I want one.
Excellent
My local Ford dealer did the same job without dropping the engine. That's overkill. 2013 Ford Explorer
Hello,
I agree, the engine does not not have to be dropped to do the job. But depending on how much room is in the engine bay (this was a Fusion). It is much easier to access the components with the engine out.
~Ryan
One should always remove the engine for the first time to fully understand the repair process
Perfect .......
So if I remove the spark plugs the crank shaft will turn easily? Having trouble turning the crank
Hello,
Removing the spark plugs should make the engine turn over with less resistance, due to the cylinders not being able to build compression.
~Ryan
didn't tighten top chain tensioner bolt the chain tensioner will drop off timing will jump plus cannot get to lower bolt later date to check tightness
Does this timing tool fit the 2018 3.5 NA engine?
Yes it does. Look it up on Google. And it will direct you to the year and model tool you need to align the camshaft.
The primary chain tensioner was out way too far and a giveaway to the bad water pump bearings. You didn't show tightening the guide bolt behind the right camshaft sprocket. Careful when moving the camshafts without the tool locking it. A little too far and you could end up with bent valves. Good on mentioning disabling fuel or spark to build oil pressure and changing oil twice.
How though?
My friend had this issue recently and dealer scared them into getting a new engine, vs replacing water pump and chain. How soon was this issue caught, once the coolant started going into the crankcase? Do you have a concern of secondary damage? I am trying to figure out at which point in time you gotta give up on the engine vs rebuild it?
You can pretty much rebuild almost any engine as long as it isn’t in pieces but it’s not always worth it.
Isnt the Fusion Sport supposed to be the best model to get?
Hi Mike, great video, the fact that this can be done in the vehicle looks to be a pain, and the customer might not want to pay to take the eng. out but, I personally think the time factor between eng. removal and doing in the vehicle isn't worth the aggravation, I'd rather pull it. (My opinion) I think the job would go faster and smoother. So wouldn't the job time even out??
Why all buyers should research well before buying, even those who can't swing a wrench. I will avoid any engines with a water pump buried inside the crankcase. Those with rubber timing belts were bad enough. Imagine buying a car with this problem where the seller disguised the leaking water pump.
Wonderful guide Mike. Thank you 👍Approximately how many times you need to rotate the crank in order to align the mark again?
Hey Petar, thanks for watching! Probably about somewhere between a thousand and a million times hahahha!
Mike Becker, Senior Instructor
Might be a dumb question but Was the water pump that you changed was that originally the pump that came car was built with from factory?
Hi Mich5 A, yes this was the original water pump in the car.
How long do water pumps last on those engines? I was thinking about a 2011 Ford Edge. But now I feel scared to buy the car. Because it has 162k miles
Hey Gilbert, this car had right around 100k miles. It's hard to say how long they last as it varies a lot
Dont get it. Mine failed at 125. My friend also had the same engine and hers went at 115.
They will line back up with rotations. 3.6 pentastar is 120 rotations before they realign
Thank you Alan for your comments. You saved my day. Just out of curiosity, I started trying, tired, and stopped. My hearty appreciation for your patience, Chief.
what year for this vehicle and how many miles? thanks.
Hi Mr what is the correct Miles or kilometers for change the timing chain. Thanks bro
I'm trying to rotate the engine after I did all this and feels like the lifters are coming into contact with the valves everything is on time properly on all 3 chains
Hello Alfredo,
The bucket lifters sit on top of the valves and are driven by the cam lobes to open the valves. Do you mean it feels like the valves are contacting the pistons?
I would try and remove the spark plugs, the resistance you feel could just be the cylinders building compression on the compression stroke. Removing the spark plugs should rule this out.
I hope this helps!
~Ryan Wilsing
@@GoTechTraining I've removed them already set the timing with tool I've looked inside the cylinder and don't see any contact of the cylinders. Using on demand for my info. Seeing if anyone else had similar issue this is the first.
@@GoTechTraining thanks for reply in advance
Why is it necessary to remove the spark plugs in order to turn the crankshaft?? Can please explain I’m working on my explorer as I’m watching this 👁️👄👁️
It stops the engine from building compression and makes it easier to turn
~Ryan
Very informative video. Is there another way to verify you are on the compression stroke when you are timing the engine than solely relying on the three timing marks?
Sure, you could look at the position of the piston and the position of the cam lobes. The top dead center of compression will have the piston at the top of the cylinder and both valves closed.
Mike Becker, Senior Instructor
@@GoTechTraining I’ve been doing research on this particular engine on how to time it before disassembly and I understand about cam lobes but not quite sure on where exactly the nose and base of the lobe should be in relation to the tappet underneath the lobe. Some videos I see both noses are facing 180 degrees from the tappet, then other videos I see they are facing all the way down touching the tappet or lifter. Sorry for the length of this response. I do appreciate any feedback. Thank you.
does the harmonic balancer need to be timed on this engine, as is the case on other ford engines?
Is this engine the same designed engine that can fit in a 2009 ford edge 3.5L v6
Yep
Buen video amigo
What about the oil pump, is right there for the taking
Hello goTech I have a 2009 ford Taurus with a 3.5 liter v6 engine like this one you working on.i lately was hearing a strange sound coming from the to part by the front valve cover left side where the timing assembly joins.so I could continue driving my car like that and it conk out on me on the road.later I try to start but it wouldn’t only the compressor pully turns I thought maybe my serpentine belt broke but it doesn’t look like it as the compressor pully spins around.do you think my timing change jump and mis align with the top camshaft gears?the car only has 58,000 original miles.i find rather strange my timing belt would go so quick.the other thing I was going to ask you where is the starter located? And is the starter that turns the crankshaft?