You could also use those 8 anchor points to at least secure the floor down enough to prevent any shifting without adding additional holes & then let gravity do the rest.
Hey Lauren, we're an older (really old) Aussie couple with a factory built campervan on order, we would have loved to do what you are doing but for us its way to late to do a self-build. We've been following Jimmy and Natalie with their build and came across your channel this morning so we are looking forward to following you both. Great job on the windows BTW, we reckon its fantastic that you are taking this on alone, clearly you are confident and capable. Downunda - Melbourne Australia
I feel fortunate to have come across your channel yesterday, been binge-watching since. So glad to see your subfloor idea because I am tall too. Your videos are fantastic, thanks for teaching us how to do this🌟🫶🏼💥💯❣
HI Lauren! your videos are so so informative! As a solo female about to embark on my own diy build, your strengthening my confidence this is something i can actually accomplish!! Great videos, thanks again!!
Hey! Thank you for the comment and kind words🥰 I am so glad you feel more confident to build out your own van. I have no doubt you can do it. Best of luck🙌🏼
I pulled out the aftermarket floor planning to do insulation, but after searching around for other people’s experiences, and now backed up by your video, I’m not gonna insulate it all. There, savedme another bunch of work!
That was very helpfull. Most floor builds always show the sub floor on 1x2's or whatever. This is how I wanted to do it and now you've shown me. Thanks,
Beautiful, the job and the installer 😁👍. Your right, the end product is only as good as the foundation it's built on. I'm remodeling an old RV and I opted to do the Sub floor in seventeen thousand pieces (😀 just kidding) I split the floor into four sections in the back and two in the front cab. It really was a bear of a job getting the edges just right, but boy it makes the rest of the install so easy when you have symmetrical edges to go to. Keep recording and we'll keep watching and learning 😊👍❤️
I appreciate you! Just got my new Ram Promaster to convert and hated the idea of drilling holes in the floor. Will definitely be following in your footsteps for the subfloor/insulation/framing. Again, thanks for doing all the research and sharing your knowledge!! :p
Hello Lauren, I just subscribed to your channel, looking forward to seeing your new home on wheels take shape. I am impressed with how accurately you explain everything in detail! Good luck with the next steps in building, the result is sure to be beautiful and comfortable! Greetings from the Netherlands, Barry
I'm with you, that's all I do, I don't even have anything attached to the Wallsor ceiling, everything is holding together from floor to ceiling and end to end, and I've driven on major dirt tracks around Western Australia and Tasmania, the windy roads take a toll more than the dirt roads...lol
Thanks, Lauren. Very professional, I'm betting Professionals are taking tips from you😂 I love your videos and there's something calming in the tone of your voice that I like. I would've done the same thing with the floor, a "Swiss-Cheese" floor can't be good for the van in the long run, and as you mentioned "Rust" As always I'm looking forward to your next video🥳Stay well until then😘
I'm 6' tall too. I'm going with 1/2" XPS on the floor with 3/8" plywood. My ceiling will be spray-on foam insulated. Interesting to note that on the Promasters Roadtrek actually spray-on insulates underneath the van, rather than doing the floor. You can do that with the PM because it is front wheel drive and there's not much between the underbody frame ribs. I intend to take this route with mine for the extra insulation because I'm in a cold climate.
As a solo female about to start her Promaster Build I’m so happy to have found you!! So appreciate your attention to detail in your videos when explaining things!!
I just bought a new 2024 Promaster 159 and have been researching and watching youtube videos and tutorials for many weeks. You do such an absolutely awesome and thorough job explaining and demonstrating the design, intent, techniques, things to watch out for and the final resulting outcome. Really great. You've been a tremendous help. Thank you!
Well you had a lot of thought in the floor and it come out wonderful it's nice to see somebody that thinks things through wish you the best have a wonderful year take care from the old guy 😇🌞☕.
Very very informative and helpful. Just got my 2021 Promaster and can't wait to get started on my van conversion. With all of the useful tips, I am confident I'll be saving time and money.
I’ve been enjoying your van build very much, especially the way you present and analyze various options I the build. As many others have stated you are talented teacher. One option to Baltic birch plywood is a product known as light ply. It is made from poplar, has 7-9 laminations in 12 mm thickness (1/2”) and weighs about 2/3s as much as Baltic birch. It glues very well, holds fasteners excellently, and paints great. I have never found it at big box stores but good hardwood lumber yards will usually have it.
Thank you for the kind words!! Certainly another option to consider, but I personally still prefer Baltic birch. It has more layers of plywood making it more durable - on top of having a beautiful finish 😄
I used 5mm neoprene that has a sticky back, it compresses wherethe ridges are and stays fluffy where it isn't. It also makes the van a lot less noisey.
wow. This maybe the most professional diy series ever made. And ever time I wondered "why did she do it that way" you seemed to have answered my question. Thank you for sharing your knowledge!
I’m very impressed with your knowledge as a young person. Wood will help, then your vinyl planks will probably make it more comfortable too. You are doing an amazing job, can;t wait to see it done. If you put that much planning into the floor, the build should be incredible
Very good job! I see so many van builds over build the Floor and insulation! I went the same was as you did, 15/32" OSB 1/4" rubber mat. I mite go w vinyl lam floor but things wud slide around on that? They stay put on the rubber floor so...
There are so many different ways to go about this… Thanks for your great video. I’m lucky to have a factory floor, so I’m putting down XPS foam covered with that factory floor. I’m just trying to decide whether or not to put furring strips down too.
Hi Lauren, Fantastic video! Your explanations are spot on! Great work the measuring cutting and your solutions to this layout issues are great and well thought through! You clearly have an analytical problem solving mind like me which I loved I'm a bit OCD too lol.. Also I love your voice very calming could listen to you all day! Lol (Just a tip for teh exposed metal and holes, I'd have sprayed some sort of Anti rust into any holes and cavities, screw threads, before theyre blocked off! Whether one that dries or a grease to keep moisture and air out) As all vans rust over time! Like where the screws are, you used to fill the holes in the floor, with a thin coat of either paint or something like an anti rust spray or grease, to seal the metal would be a good idea! Also like when you fit your heater and things underneath and also the cavities in the side panels anti rust spray is always a great prevention measure.. ..You may be ok? BUT given you're living in the van there will be more Moisture and also it's going to get used and be your home, so ANY EXPOSED metal inside and outside should be sealed with an anti rust and paint also ideally if it shows/exposed, like when you cut the metal for vents windows etc. Not sure if you have already as I see your windows are fitted and this is the first video I've seen of yours. Can't wait to follow your build! Thanks again for making such a great video! You're very intelligent and easy to listen to! You've really put a smile on my face today and given me extra motivation and tips for when I do my own build! Cheers from London England 👍😉🙂😎🏴 x
Totally agree. I am very paranoid about rust and have been using rust oleum heavily in my van wherever there is exposed metal. I will be sure to add them to the holes as well! Thanks for the insight. Glad to have you along for the journey and appreciate your kind worlds😁 good luck on your own build
i'm at a loss, you are literally doing everything I did .... our mindset is so nearly identical and to me brilliant ... i'm at a complete loss as I did these things back in 2017 before taking off on the most hilarious road trip as at the last second while hitting refresh for the 100th time got the Fest Passport and leaft for an 8 day trip and didn't come back till 104 days later
I enjoyed your video and I'm very impressed at how smart and thorough you are. I went ahead and hit that like button and subscribed. Looking forward to seeing more.
I did not install and AC… I may change that in the future and swap out a fan. Personally, I don’t think insulating the floor makes enough of a difference to justify losing that headspace and adding weight and time to the build. I installed a 12v floor heat pad which keeps the floor warm when I want it 🤗
@LaurenLawliss Awesome, thank you for the feedback. I just bought my van last week and aside from soundproofing and cleaning, am just planning out the build
very helpful and informative. Your details are excellent Thank You for a excellent pro master video. I will enjoy following your build and will now subscribe.😊
I insulated from the bottom of the van. I spray glued panels up and spray foamed around the edges to be sure they won't come off. I left the shiney side out. It makes a noticable difference, more in the summer on parking lots to my surprise.
Thank you Lauren for putting the work into creating this! For the lip issue you cut that inch off the board so it would lay flush? Then you did what with the inch of remaining board? I looks like it was glued down beside it.
Thank you for the sweet comment! Yes, in hindsight, if I had to do the subfloor over again, I would cut an inch off on both sides. Even after routering the sides, it still didn’t sit flush fully - which I didn’t realize until after I posted this video. You will likely have cabinetry that will cover it up anyways - my bed boxes do - so you wouldn’t even be able to tell. Hope this helps! Best of luck with your build. You got this🤗
A lot of hard work! I would have first sealed the floor, then added insulation between the ribs. Andvthen plywood. Second I would have left the tiedowns, drilling holes for them, so they can refused for tiedowns for furniture, cabinets etc. And that way they are easily accessible and could be stained to match floor?
I left the ribs open for air flow - also putting insulation between the ribs would not add much benefit. No need to secure the subfloor in place when you will inevitably be putting cabinetry on top of it and I secure the cabinetry to the subfloor. There are many ways to do a build, but I wouldn’t change a thing I did to the subfloor ☺️
Great job! I was wondering about the Thompson Water seal. I used it on my subfloor and furring and now I’ve been reading that it’s only for exterior and it could be harmful to health in interior wood. So now I’m worried. What are your thoughts?
I’ve heard insulation doesn’t do much so good choice I’m not doing the floor. Some people don’t even do the walls and ceiling. My van came with a factory floor I’m leaving but I came here to figure out how to get the stupid tie downs out. My drill bit won’t work and Allen key doesn’t have a handle. They’re so hard. I try a socket today. If not I’ll get a Allen wrench with handle. Good job on your floor!
Hey! Thanks for the comment. I am so glad I didn’t insulate my floor and left more headspace. The tie downs in a Ram ProMaster requires an M8 torx bit. They can be challenging. I struggled with a few of them for some time but got it to eventually budge. The socket should help. Good luck with your build!
@@LaurenLawliss thanks! I got the impact bit - it’s a T40 or 3/8 thingy but the drill isn’t an impact drill so it was spinning on me. I need a handle for Allen key - 4.5 size but the socket bit arrives today so maybe that’ll work. If not the dealer can do it cuz mine are so tight 😭. Thx! I can’t wait til the van is functional!
If one would like to go that route they certainly can. I don’t see the point in securing the subfloor down since all the cabinetry will go on top and hold it in place. But to each their own 😊
Some builders coat the factory painted metal floor with a waterproofer to prevent rust prior to plywood. Maybe there should be at least one drain hole in case of water leak, but would need to have a varmint screen.
Certainly another option, I don’t think it is necessary for my circumstance seeing I bought the van brand new. Leaving the ribs open allows air flow for any moisture that gets under the floor ☺️
@@LaurenLawliss OMG i just saw all your videos at once, you are really the best!! cant wait when you finish your future home😁😁😁 marine plywood is not better for vans? as it has waterproof adhesive, in the winter time vans usually condensate a little bit.
Thank you for the kind words! I personally love building with Baltic birch plywood and many of the professionals do the same. It hasn’t done me wrong yet 😆
Also, check out my website laurenlawliss.com to see some pictures of the vans current state while I catch up on videos. The website also provides a breakdown of the entire build and includes product links for everything I used 😁
Why did you use an M8 bolt instead of the factory bolt? I'm about to go pick up a T-40 torx bit that of course didn't come with the bit set I purchased. First panel cut, but still needs a little shaved off here and there. 3/4" sanded birch is heavy. BTW, I painted the interior with ceramic insulating paint that's used on commercial buildings. Should help.
Hi David👋🏻 I’m trying to remember my exact reasoning. I think the factory installed bolt couldn’t be detached from the tie down or it sat too high and interfered with the subfloor. But I could be mistaken. Nice work and good idea. Thanks for sharing!
I have often wondered why builders dont put tubing under the subfloor and connect it to the cooling system of the engine to heat the van while you are moving,
I have never seen the fitted floor mat in person and assume it varies year to year of the vans make but if it is form fitting around the edge of the floor, I don’t see why you can use that and then make minor adjustments as needed 😊
I did to help limit thermal bridges. Although, the insulation won’t fully eliminate thermal bridges, I’d like to think it still helps, especially with sound.
I see a comment about not insulating the floor. I understand the wood is a fair insulation but can’t help believe it wouldn’t help to have something under it, but if I keep watching, may understand?
Hi David! Thanks for your comment. My subfloor is so quiet. There are no noises when I walk on it or drive. I don’t regret my decision not to insulate the floor. Heat rises so the floor is always going to be cooler. To combat this, I am installing a 12v floor heat pad under my final flooring, I’ll wear socks, lay a rug and turn on my heater in the winter months. These “extra” steps (which I would be doing regardless if my floor was insulated or not) are worth saving the headspace and not insulating since I am tall. Hope this helps. Let me know if you have any other questions🥰
Lauren, I've been driving around with my 3/4" sanded ply and small coin top layer on and my floor rattles a lot. I've even cut out a spot where an uneven rib was causing the floor not lay flush at the seam. This, of course is with no weight on the floor. Did your floor rattle before you put weight on it? I'm concerned that my van's floor is not even enough to make your approach work, and I really want it to. Some 80/20 for the power system bed platform and storage is on the way and my Explorist components and batteries have arrived, so there will be no going back soon.
@@davidterrie7661 Hi David! I am sorry to hear your floor is rattling. My subfloor has never made a peep. Just a few thoughts… maybe it is too tight to the the van - add at least a 1/8 inch gap around the entire perimeter of the subfloor. Is the coin top glued down? Is the subfloor touching the M8 bolts underneath? I am trying to think of other ways to troubleshoot the floor but nothing is else coming to mind right now besides those possibilities. I hope you find a solution soon. Best of luck!
I'm impressed by the the amount of research you're putting into this build. Your videos are very informative.
Thank you!
You could also use those 8 anchor points to at least secure the floor down enough to prevent any shifting without adding additional holes & then let gravity do the rest.
Sure can! I made sure to mention that in the video.
Hey Lauren, we're an older (really old) Aussie couple with a factory built campervan on order, we would have loved to do what you are doing but for us its way to late to do a self-build. We've been following Jimmy and Natalie with their build and came across your channel this morning so we are looking forward to following you both. Great job on the windows BTW, we reckon its fantastic that you are taking this on alone, clearly you are confident and capable.
Downunda - Melbourne Australia
Awh, thank you so much for your kind words. Welcome to the channel and enjoy your camper van when it comes in!
❤
🤩
I feel fortunate to have come across your channel yesterday, been binge-watching since. So glad to see your subfloor idea because I am tall too. Your videos are fantastic, thanks for teaching us how to do this🌟🫶🏼💥💯❣
Thank you for the kind words! I really appreciate it and am glad you found it helpful. Best of luck with your subfloor, you got this🥰💖
HI Lauren! your videos are so so informative! As a solo female about to embark on my own diy build, your strengthening my confidence this is something i can actually accomplish!! Great videos, thanks again!!
Hey! Thank you for the comment and kind words🥰 I am so glad you feel more confident to build out your own van. I have no doubt you can do it. Best of luck🙌🏼
I pulled out the aftermarket floor planning to do insulation, but after searching around for other people’s experiences, and now backed up by your video, I’m not gonna insulate it all. There, savedme another bunch of work!
Good call!
That was very helpfull. Most floor builds always show the sub floor on 1x2's or whatever. This is how I wanted to do it and now you've shown me. Thanks,
Glad I could help! Best of luck on your build ☺️
Beautiful, the job and the installer 😁👍. Your right, the end product is only as good as the foundation it's built on.
I'm remodeling an old RV and I opted to do the Sub floor in seventeen thousand pieces (😀 just kidding) I split the floor into four sections in the back and two in the front cab. It really was a bear of a job getting the edges just right, but boy it makes the rest of the install so easy when you have symmetrical edges to go to.
Keep recording and we'll keep watching and learning 😊👍❤️
Thanks for the comment, Edward! Sounds like you have a fun project on your hands too. Wishing you the best of luck😄
I appreciate you!
Just got my new Ram Promaster to convert and hated the idea of drilling holes in the floor. Will definitely be following in your footsteps for the subfloor/insulation/framing.
Again, thanks for doing all the research and sharing your knowledge!! :p
Congrats on the van! Good luck on your build - you got this 🙌🏻
nicely done lauren 🥰 great job doing your floor. cannot wait for another upload. 😁
Thank you!!!
Hello Lauren,
I just subscribed to your channel, looking forward to seeing your new home on wheels take shape.
I am impressed with how accurately you explain everything in detail!
Good luck with the next steps in building, the result is sure to be beautiful and comfortable!
Greetings from the Netherlands,
Barry
Thank you for the kind words! Excited to have you here for the journey.
I'm with you, that's all I do, I don't even have anything attached to the Wallsor ceiling, everything is holding together from floor to ceiling and end to end, and I've driven on major dirt tracks around Western Australia and Tasmania, the windy roads take a toll more than the dirt roads...lol
Yup! Cabinets will hold then in place and once I added my furring strips that also blocked the floors from being removed.
Clear, informative, and well-presented. Kudos! Also hooray for the shoutout to Humble Road!
Thank you!!
Thanks, Lauren. Very professional, I'm betting Professionals are taking tips from you😂 I love your videos and there's something calming in the tone of your voice that I like. I would've done the same thing with the floor, a "Swiss-Cheese" floor can't be good for the van in the long run, and as you mentioned "Rust" As always I'm looking forward to your next video🥳Stay well until then😘
Thank you! Appreciate the support and you joining me on this journey :)
Incredible subfloor fit! Probably the best I've seen.
I appreciate it!
Thank you for that excellent tutorial. Your attention to detail ...your open mindedness....your step-by-step demonstration...all good
I appreciate it!
I'm 6' tall too. I'm going with 1/2" XPS on the floor with 3/8" plywood. My ceiling will be spray-on foam insulated. Interesting to note that on the Promasters Roadtrek actually spray-on insulates underneath the van, rather than doing the floor. You can do that with the PM because it is front wheel drive and there's not much between the underbody frame ribs. I intend to take this route with mine for the extra insulation because I'm in a cold climate.
Cool, good luck on your build!
As a solo female about to start her Promaster Build I’m so happy to have found you!! So appreciate your attention to detail in your videos when explaining things!!
Best of luck with your van build!!
I just bought a new 2024 Promaster 159 and have been researching and watching youtube videos and tutorials for many weeks. You do such an absolutely awesome and thorough job explaining and demonstrating the design, intent, techniques, things to watch out for and the final resulting outcome. Really great. You've been a tremendous help. Thank you!
Thank you for watching and commenting. I really appreciate it. Best of luck on your build ☺️
Great video Lauren
Thank you!
Well you had a lot of thought in the floor and it come out wonderful it's nice to see somebody that thinks things through wish you the best have a wonderful year take care from the old guy 😇🌞☕.
Thank you!
Very very informative and helpful. Just got my 2021 Promaster and can't wait to get started on my van conversion. With all of the useful tips, I am confident I'll be saving time and money.
Wahoo!! How exciting. Best of luck with your build ☺️
I’ve been enjoying your van build very much, especially the way you present and analyze various options I the build. As many others have stated you are talented teacher. One option to Baltic birch plywood is a product known as light ply. It is made from poplar, has 7-9 laminations in 12 mm thickness (1/2”) and weighs about 2/3s as much as Baltic birch. It glues very well, holds fasteners excellently, and paints great. I have never found it at big box stores but good hardwood lumber yards will usually have it.
Thank you for the kind words!! Certainly another option to consider, but I personally still prefer Baltic birch. It has more layers of plywood making it more durable - on top of having a beautiful finish 😄
I used 5mm neoprene that has a sticky back, it compresses wherethe ridges are and stays fluffy where it isn't. It also makes the van a lot less noisey.
👍🏼
Great job Lauren! One of the best van build series on TH-cam.
Thanks, Larry! That means a lot🥰
wow. This maybe the most professional diy series ever made. And ever time I wondered "why did she do it that way" you seemed to have answered my question. Thank you for sharing your knowledge!
Thank you, Rudy! I’m glad you found it helpful. Best of luck with your build🥰
I’m very impressed with your knowledge as a young person. Wood will help, then your vinyl planks will probably make it more comfortable too. You are doing an amazing job, can;t wait to see it done. If you put that much planning into the floor, the build should be incredible
Thank you! If you’re interested, check out my Instagram @LaurenLawliss to see the van’s current state (about 95% done).
Incredible. I have this sense of pride in your build like it's mine hehehe. Gotta say I like 👍 👌
Hehe, thank you for being here!
I’ve been around carpentry and woodwork all my life, at 64, I’ve never seen that home made scribe, excellent!
Thank you! It worked pretty well 😄
THE FIT OF YOUR SUBFLOOR LOOKED PERFECT. I DON’T THINK IT COULD HAVE BEEN DONE BETTER. GOOD JOB, LOOKING FORWARD TO NEXT UPDATE
Awh thanks!!
Another excellent video. You are now my official 'go to person' for van conversions!
Appreciate it!
Thank you, you answered all of my questions that I had regarding subfloor installation.
Glad I could help!!
Very good job! I see so many van builds over build the Floor and insulation! I went the same was as you did, 15/32" OSB 1/4" rubber mat. I mite go w vinyl lam floor but things wud slide around on that? They stay put on the rubber floor so...
Great rundown on this subject. Your knowledge and experience is very much appreciated. Keep informing the people...
Thank you for the kind words!
Great video!! Are you sure you are not a professional at this kind of work? Keep it up and your viewers crave more frequent videos..😜😜😜
Hahaha thanks! Learning a lot as I go and I’ve done tons of research😄
Good luck renovating your van Lauren
Appreciate it.
Awesome video as always. Can't wait for the next one 😉
And that pencil in the stick idea......genius.
Hahaha thanks! It made stenciling so much easier🤩
Excellent video. I went without a subfloor - just the factory rubber mat that came with the van and a throw rug over it. Worked fine for me.
Nice! Glad it’s working well☺️
My van is going to be both a work truck and a camper van. A subfloor is a must for me.
There are so many different ways to go about this… Thanks for your great video. I’m lucky to have a factory floor, so I’m putting down XPS foam covered with that factory floor. I’m just trying to decide whether or not to put furring strips down too.
Nice! Good luck 😄
Love the detailed information for starting a Van build ! Thank you
Thanks! Good luck on your build.
Congrats on the sub floor install. Looking good. Nice that you have a large shop area to work in. You obviously know your way around a shop.
Thanks! Learning as I go for sure but enjoying every step.
Well done Lauren. For someone with little experience you are doing a great job. I've watched all your videos. looking forward to your next video
Thank you so much. Appreciate the support.
The 1st 30 seconds I learned how to get the template and do the cuts around wheel wells and bulkhead !
Thanks !!
Wahoo! Best of luck with your subfloor. You got this🙌🏼
Hi Lauren,
Fantastic video! Your explanations are spot on! Great work the measuring cutting and your solutions to this layout issues are great and well thought through! You clearly have an analytical problem solving mind like me which I loved I'm a bit OCD too lol..
Also I love your voice very calming could listen to you all day! Lol
(Just a tip for teh exposed metal and holes, I'd have sprayed some sort of Anti rust into any holes and cavities, screw threads, before theyre blocked off! Whether one that dries or a grease to keep moisture and air out) As all vans rust over time! Like where the screws are, you used to fill the holes in the floor, with a thin coat of either paint or something like an anti rust spray or grease, to seal the metal would be a good idea! Also like when you fit your heater and things underneath and also the cavities in the side panels anti rust spray is always a great prevention measure..
..You may be ok? BUT given you're living in the van there will be more Moisture and also it's going to get used and be your home, so ANY EXPOSED metal inside and outside should be sealed with an anti rust and paint also ideally if it shows/exposed, like when you cut the metal for vents windows etc. Not sure if you have already as I see your windows are fitted and this is the first video I've seen of yours.
Can't wait to follow your build!
Thanks again for making such a great video! You're very intelligent and easy to listen to! You've really put a smile on my face today and given me extra motivation and tips for when I do my own build!
Cheers from London England 👍😉🙂😎🏴 x
Totally agree. I am very paranoid about rust and have been using rust oleum heavily in my van wherever there is exposed metal. I will be sure to add them to the holes as well! Thanks for the insight. Glad to have you along for the journey and appreciate your kind worlds😁 good luck on your own build
Thank you for sharing your build. This would very educational since its detailed.
Glad you liked it!
You are incredible! Some of the best videos I have seen pertaining to van builds!
Appreciate it!
i'm at a loss, you are literally doing everything I did .... our mindset is so nearly identical and to me brilliant ... i'm at a complete loss as I did these things back in 2017 before taking off on the most hilarious road trip as at the last second while hitting refresh for the 100th time got the Fest Passport and leaft for an 8 day trip and didn't come back till 104 days later
How funny!
Very well-done and articulated.
Thank you!!
Beautiful presentation and very Professional work thank you for sharing your project I learned a lot
I appreciate the kind words 🫶🏻
Another great video for DIY van converters to follow! 😎👍
Thank you!!😊
Very nice and call me crazy, but I actually like the color of that sealant on the plywood. Stay safe and TFS💖
Honestly same😅
Maybe it's just the camera but that sub-floor looks good enough to be the finished floor. Nice video Lauren.
Awh thanks!
Great video. Well thought out. Thanks
Appreciate it!
These videos are excellent. Thankyou.
Thank you for the kind words!
Looks good thank you for explaining everything in great detail. once again good video looking forward to many more
Thank you!
I enjoyed your video and I'm very impressed at how smart and thorough you are. I went ahead and hit that like button and subscribed. Looking forward to seeing more.
Thank you for the support!
Always well done. Both the work product and the video presentation.
Thank you! I really appreciate it.
Did you end up using an AC unit in your build? What are you thoughts of insulating the sub if you do use one?
I did not install and AC… I may change that in the future and swap out a fan. Personally, I don’t think insulating the floor makes enough of a difference to justify losing that headspace and adding weight and time to the build. I installed a 12v floor heat pad which keeps the floor warm when I want it 🤗
@LaurenLawliss Awesome, thank you for the feedback. I just bought my van last week and aside from soundproofing and cleaning, am just planning out the build
How exciting! Best of luck to you 😁
This is such a god and helpful video!! Thank you so much 😊
Thank you! Glad you found it helpful.
Awesome video as usual, Lauren. Really helps me down the road for when I do my RV remodel. Envious of your baltic birch.😉
Thank you :) Best of luck with your RV remodel. And yes, I am so grateful to have found my baltic birch!!!
very helpful and informative. Your details are excellent Thank You for a excellent pro master video. I will enjoy following your build and will now subscribe.😊
Thank you! Welcome to my journey😊
Very nice work on your sub flooring lauren
Thank you😊
I am very impressed with you build you are one smart lady great work.
Thank you!! I am very proud of it myself😁
Really great advice! Thank you for the tip on the lift 😊
Thanks!
I insulated from the bottom of the van. I spray glued panels up and spray foamed around the edges to be sure they won't come off. I left the shiney side out. It makes a noticable difference, more in the summer on parking lots to my surprise.
Very interesting. Thanks for sharing!
You knew I would be here 🫠
Haha, welcome!
Great Work! Love the floor!
Thank you!!!
Thank you Lauren for putting the work into creating this! For the lip issue you cut that inch off the board so it would lay flush? Then you did what with the inch of remaining board? I looks like it was glued down beside it.
Thank you for the sweet comment!
Yes, in hindsight, if I had to do the subfloor over again, I would cut an inch off on both sides. Even after routering the sides, it still didn’t sit flush fully - which I didn’t realize until after I posted this video. You will likely have cabinetry that will cover it up anyways - my bed boxes do - so you wouldn’t even be able to tell.
Hope this helps! Best of luck with your build. You got this🤗
@@LaurenLawliss Thank you Lauren that is very helpful and seeing you do this is helping me to get this. I am very grateful for you!!
@@laurelanderson-rostami109 appreciate it🥰
A lot of hard work! I would have first sealed the floor, then added insulation between the ribs. Andvthen plywood. Second I would have left the tiedowns, drilling holes for them, so they can refused for tiedowns for furniture, cabinets etc.
And that way they are easily accessible and could be stained to match floor?
I left the ribs open for air flow - also putting insulation between the ribs would not add much benefit. No need to secure the subfloor in place when you will inevitably be putting cabinetry on top of it and I secure the cabinetry to the subfloor. There are many ways to do a build, but I wouldn’t change a thing I did to the subfloor ☺️
Nice job!!
Thank you!!
Great job!
I was wondering about the Thompson Water seal. I used it on my subfloor and furring and now I’ve been reading that it’s only for exterior and it could be harmful to health in interior wood. So now I’m worried. What are your thoughts?
Appreciate you sharing your findings. I am not aware of this, but don’t doubt it could be true. I hope it’s safe 🤞🏼
Looks Great, thanks for sharing‼️
Thanks!
Baltic birch has fewer voids in the wood and is a good choice for a floor.
It’s the best!
I had a friend in his dad built boat docks and they used a bug sprayer to spray on Thompson Water Seal fast and quick
That would be handy!
I’ve heard insulation doesn’t do much so good choice I’m not doing the floor. Some people don’t even do the walls and ceiling. My van came with a factory floor I’m leaving but I came here to figure out how to get the stupid tie downs out. My drill bit won’t work and Allen key doesn’t have a handle. They’re so hard. I try a socket today. If not I’ll get a Allen wrench with handle. Good job on your floor!
Hey! Thanks for the comment. I am so glad I didn’t insulate my floor and left more headspace. The tie downs in a Ram ProMaster requires an M8 torx bit. They can be challenging. I struggled with a few of them for some time but got it to eventually budge. The socket should help. Good luck with your build!
@@LaurenLawliss thanks! I got the impact bit - it’s a T40 or 3/8 thingy but the drill isn’t an impact drill so it was spinning on me. I need a handle for Allen key - 4.5 size but the socket bit arrives today so maybe that’ll work. If not the dealer can do it cuz mine are so tight 😭. Thx! I can’t wait til the van is functional!
@@katekaos Glad to hear you got it figured out☺️
The tie downs are a perfect way to hold the sub floor down
If one would like to go that route they certainly can. I don’t see the point in securing the subfloor down since all the cabinetry will go on top and hold it in place. But to each their own 😊
The floor isn't a problem, a bare metal floor wud be Cold but wood solves that! Just sear socks and or slippers if chilly?
Depends on the climate you are in
Smart idea with the pencil scribe. Ever hear of a ticking stick? There are videos on TH-cam.
Just found your page, going to watch more.
Thanks! I have not heard of the ticking stick method before, but I just watched a video on it. Very interesting.
You're too good!
Appreciate it!
Some builders coat the factory painted metal floor with a waterproofer to prevent rust prior to plywood. Maybe there should be at least one drain hole in case of water leak, but would need to have a varmint screen.
Certainly another option, I don’t think it is necessary for my circumstance seeing I bought the van brand new. Leaving the ribs open allows air flow for any moisture that gets under the floor ☺️
You are amazing !!!
Whats the difference between birch plywood and marine plywood?
Thank you! Marine grade plywood has multiple layers bonded with a waterproof adhesive, whereas other plywood is not.
@@LaurenLawliss
OMG i just saw all your videos at once, you are really the best!! cant wait when you finish your future home😁😁😁
marine plywood is not better for vans? as it has waterproof adhesive, in the winter time vans usually condensate a little bit.
Thank you for the kind words! I personally love building with Baltic birch plywood and many of the professionals do the same. It hasn’t done me wrong yet 😆
Also, check out my website laurenlawliss.com to see some pictures of the vans current state while I catch up on videos. The website also provides a breakdown of the entire build and includes product links for everything I used 😁
Love your videos. Wish there were more women out there like you. Hands on and not afraid to get dirty. Kudos to you Lauren!
Appreciate it🫶🏻
Good video, and good information.I never understood why you would insulate the floor anyway.Especially being as tall as you are.
Thanks! And yes, I’d much rather have space to stand up than insulate for a marginal temperature difference. Socks will have to do😄
I got Lucky my van had some kind of removal mat i wil, use as a template to build my floor 😊
That is perfect! Slightly jealous😉
Why did you use an M8 bolt instead of the factory bolt? I'm about to go pick up a T-40 torx bit that of course didn't come with the bit set I purchased. First panel cut, but still needs a little shaved off here and there. 3/4" sanded birch is heavy. BTW, I painted the interior with ceramic insulating paint that's used on commercial buildings. Should help.
Hi David👋🏻 I’m trying to remember my exact reasoning. I think the factory installed bolt couldn’t be detached from the tie down or it sat too high and interfered with the subfloor. But I could be mistaken. Nice work and good idea. Thanks for sharing!
I have often wondered why builders dont put tubing under the subfloor and connect it to the cooling system of the engine to heat the van while you are moving,
You certainly can. I personally didn’t have a want or need for that 😁
Bravo 👏🏻👏🏻👏🏻
Another helpful video, thanks.
Glad you found it helpful!
Hey Lauren, my promaster came with a fitted black matt can i use that? Its like 1/8 of an onch from the edges idk if that matters or not
Lucky you! I’d recommend removing that and using it as a template. Will save you a lot of time 😄
@LaurenLawliss is ir the 100% exact size I need? Cause it dont seem to go to the end? Or maybe im tripping Thanks for the reply
I have never seen the fitted floor mat in person and assume it varies year to year of the vans make but if it is form fitting around the edge of the floor, I don’t see why you can use that and then make minor adjustments as needed 😊
Would placing strips of Thinsulate in the channels help with insulation?
I did to help limit thermal bridges. Although, the insulation won’t fully eliminate thermal bridges, I’d like to think it still helps, especially with sound.
Very creative
I see a comment about not insulating the floor. I understand the wood is a fair insulation but can’t help believe it wouldn’t help to have something under it, but if I keep watching, may understand?
Great video
Thank you!
A raised panel router bit would take care of that little raise on the back of your plywood
For sure!
How has your decision to skip insulation and not glue down floor worked out? Any rattling/squeaks?
Hi David! Thanks for your comment. My subfloor is so quiet. There are no noises when I walk on it or drive. I don’t regret my decision not to insulate the floor. Heat rises so the floor is always going to be cooler. To combat this, I am installing a 12v floor heat pad under my final flooring, I’ll wear socks, lay a rug and turn on my heater in the winter months. These “extra” steps (which I would be doing regardless if my floor was insulated or not) are worth saving the headspace and not insulating since I am tall. Hope this helps. Let me know if you have any other questions🥰
Lauren,
I've been driving around with my 3/4" sanded ply and small coin top layer on and my floor rattles a lot. I've even cut out a spot where an uneven rib was causing the floor not lay flush at the seam. This, of course is with no weight on the floor. Did your floor rattle before you put weight on it? I'm concerned that my van's floor is not even enough to make your approach work, and I really want it to. Some 80/20 for the power system bed platform and storage is on the way and my Explorist components and batteries have arrived, so there will be no going back soon.
@@davidterrie7661 Hi David! I am sorry to hear your floor is rattling. My subfloor has never made a peep. Just a few thoughts… maybe it is too tight to the the van - add at least a 1/8 inch gap around the entire perimeter of the subfloor. Is the coin top glued down? Is the subfloor touching the M8 bolts underneath? I am trying to think of other ways to troubleshoot the floor but nothing is else coming to mind right now besides those possibilities. I hope you find a solution soon. Best of luck!
What length and thread would you recommend to put those bolts into the holes in the floor?
Great question. They are an inch and a quarter long, M8 bolt☺️
20 thread?
@@LaurenLawliss - 20 thread?
To be honest, I don’t recall😕
Hey there! Which jig blade did you use to cut the birch?
Hey! I used a standard wood blade from a local hardware store😊
Liked this video.
You are great and brilliant
keep on
Thank you for your kind words!
@@LaurenLawliss 💪
🤩
Is that 7 ply furniture grade Baltic birch for the subfloor?
Yes, it is 1/2 inch baltic birch plywood with 9 layers. Pricey for a subfloor, I know, but durable and less likely to warp🤩