Sure you could do that I just feel like it’s easier to glue down those whole sheets of plywood using the screws to clamp it evenly all around. Just want to make sure you don’t screw through the metal floor of the van
Overall, I like many things about your design for air flow and support and insulation. In your build, the two rear boards you laid down, the right seam was screwed into the lower wood slat, but the left one had the seam laying over the foam unsecured. I would think that seam would move up and down when weight applied. I have seen many other builds cut the plywood sheets so they lay front to back so the seams run from side to side of the van, which would seem to eliminate this problem as you could screw plywood down on both sides near the seam. Curious your thoughts?
Thanks for the comment! No, the left piece of ply wasn’t floating only over the insulation. It landed also on the same support slat that the right one did
I'm using Owens Corning extruded NGX polystyrene foam for the floor, R3. It's designed for floors so less wood support is needed, resulting in less weight in the van. Can use 1/2" or even 3/8" ply without worrying about compression, except in the high traffic areas. Otherwise, I think the above example is a good way to do a floor. Leaving the slats clear for air circulation is very important.
use Owens 25 psi foam and you wont ever have to worry about it . Framing the floor is stupid and the fact that a "pro builder " is doing this is a clear indicator that he is clueless......
Absolutely, there is zero need for sleepers under the floor. Even the regular DPS or polyiso has a compressive strength of 15-16 psi. With plywood on top, there are never any loads that would come close to that.. He is excelling in wasting time and money.
Should you first install water tanks and make holes for the connections into the van if you put them underneath the van? Or can you just drill holes through the isolation and wood of an already-installed floor? Also - can you first insulate the whole van and then look where you will put electricity lines etc or do those lines need to be in the isolation?
Yes I drill through the subfloor to run drain lines after it's installed and I know right where the water tanks need them. And yes I generally do insulation first then run the electrical. It might be helpful to watch my full build video I recently posted
I've seen some builds where they cover the entire floor in Kilmat. Would you happen to know of any issues gluing the wood strips to a surface covered with Kilmat? Very helpful, thanks.
you dont need to put kilomat on the floors. everyone puts way too much on their build. (its a tendency when in doubt to overdue things.) you only need about 20 sheets of kilomt to cover an entire van. put two sheets of kilomat in the middle of each metal panel and then some closed cell foam with aluminum backing on your wheel wells and you're all good on sound deadening.
this was super helpful, thanks!!!!
You’re welcome! Good luck on your build :)
@@kokomovans thanks! i'd love to see videos about electric and plumbing too
You got it. Electric definitely coming up soon!
Good information. I've looked at lots of van builds but this in-depth on the floor is just what I needed. Great job.
That's some solid adhesive
You’d better believe it!
I noticed your t-shirt. Are u from Worcester,Ma.?
Do you seal the Baltic Birch?
This is helpful!
awesome dude, curious though could you glue down the subfloor instead of screws?
Sure you could do that I just feel like it’s easier to glue down those whole sheets of plywood using the screws to clamp it evenly all around. Just want to make sure you don’t screw through the metal floor of the van
Overall, I like many things about your design for air flow and support and insulation. In your build, the two rear boards you laid down, the right seam was screwed into the lower wood slat, but the left one had the seam laying over the foam unsecured. I would think that seam would move up and down when weight applied. I have seen many other builds cut the plywood sheets so they lay front to back so the seams run from side to side of the van, which would seem to eliminate this problem as you could screw plywood down on both sides near the seam. Curious your thoughts?
Thanks for the comment! No, the left piece of ply wasn’t floating only over the insulation. It landed also on the same support slat that the right one did
I'm using Owens Corning extruded NGX polystyrene foam for the floor, R3. It's designed for floors so less wood support is needed, resulting in less weight in the van. Can use 1/2" or even 3/8" ply without worrying about compression, except in the high traffic areas. Otherwise, I think the above example is a good way to do a floor. Leaving the slats clear for air circulation is very important.
use Owens 25 psi foam and you wont ever have to worry about it . Framing the floor is stupid and the fact that a "pro builder " is doing this is a clear indicator that he is clueless......
Absolutely, there is zero need for sleepers under the floor. Even the regular DPS or polyiso has a compressive strength of 15-16 psi. With plywood on top, there are never any loads that would come close to that.. He is excelling in wasting time and money.
Should you first install water tanks and make holes for the connections into the van if you put them underneath the van? Or can you just drill holes through the isolation and wood of an already-installed floor? Also - can you first insulate the whole van and then look where you will put electricity lines etc or do those lines need to be in the isolation?
Yes I drill through the subfloor to run drain lines after it's installed and I know right where the water tanks need them. And yes I generally do insulation first then run the electrical. It might be helpful to watch my full build video I recently posted
@@kokomovans Thank you!
I've seen some builds where they cover the entire floor in Kilmat. Would you happen to know of any issues gluing the wood strips to a surface covered with Kilmat? Very helpful, thanks.
im under the impression you should cut the killmat to fit in thew dips where as the wood sits on the raised potions of the original floor
you dont need to put kilomat on the floors. everyone puts way too much on their build. (its a tendency when in doubt to overdue things.) you only need about 20 sheets of kilomt to cover an entire van. put two sheets of kilomat in the middle of each metal panel and then some closed cell foam with aluminum backing on your wheel wells and you're all good on sound deadening.
I'm not a fan of overdoing Kilmat. When the van is full of insulation and furniture, I doubt a bunch of Kilmat makes much of a difference.
a professional van builder that still frames the floor . geez.......just stop