I just acquired a used 026 at work, poorly tuned, dirty and not taken care of. Idle extremely high and lean, honestly surprised it hadn't popped over the years. A quick jet reset (low was turned out close to 2.5 turns and high was at 1). Little ear tuning, cleaning and good sharpen, and it's 100x the saw it was. After watching this, I plan on pulling the muffler apart and doing a little porting and open it up as well. Great job on a 1/3 reduction in cutting time! I grew up on Husqvarna, my favorite bing an original 254XP that has cut well over a million BF of Cedar/Spruce/Pine. When my father knew he wasn't going to be around much longer due to cancer, we sat in the basement havibg a beer one evening and he asked me which saw I wanted him to give me (372XP, 455 Rancher, 385XP, 394XP or the 254), my immediate choice was my favorite over all. And it still works amazingly. Only thing done to it was the baffle actually broke loose during use years ago, so I removed it and it still sings.
I had a 20" bar on it for comparison, but this one normally runs a 24" 3/8 Picco/LP setup. It's my go to for limbing and felling smaller trees. It feels like a featherweight after running anything else haha
Awesome little saws . I’m running a 25” .050 3/8 skip tooth chisel with an imported 026 . Been super strong after having Madsens doing sone carb work . I might have to get it ported . That’s impressive .
Of course there is always more that goes into it than "just a set of numbers." There are so many different ways to skin a cat. That being said, I've found that the factory cylinders have a fairly high exhaust port to begin with. Factory most are Intake - 71° / 142° duration Exhaust - 96° / 168° duration Transfers - 120° / 24° blowdown Port widths are right around 22.5mm wide After port work I end up at Intake - 76°-78° / 152°-156° duration Exhaust - 96° / 168° duration Transfers - 120° / 24° blowdown Port widths 25.4mm wide The 026/260 has a really tight crank case, so I tend to run them with the intake around the 152°-156° range personally. Some saws you can push, but I've found these are really happy around the 76°/152° duration of you are widening the port. Much lower and they get pretty sluggish off the line & produce a lot of spit back.
@@CommanderKing453 I smooth/blend the harsh ledge at the bottom of the lower transfer & open it up a touch more, but not a lot. I stretch the upper a bit width wise, but I don't raise them any. I leave the exhaust and upper transfer timing alone on these & just widen the ports as they're pretty spot on from the factory in my opinion. If you email me at samishsawworks@gmail.com I can send you pictures if you'd like.
@@samishsawworks5870 Great info, thanks for the reply. I will send you an email. I am getting prepared to port my first saw, and I am trying to get as much info as I can get.
@shawnlonge373 All depends on where you land for numbers and port shapes, etc. So many places to land when grinding on cylinders. Don't always gain RPM with porting. All depends on what you're after. Unless I'm playing, I'll almost always take bottom end grunt/pull over RPM. Nice work bud!!
The difference between red and black lever is the muffler? Anything else? I mite be picking up a mint 026 pro black lever. I got a few boxes of old Stihl mufflers to dig through so I can probably find a non baffle 026 muffler.
Any 026 is great! Get it! ;) Red or black lever wouldn't make any difference to me if I was buying. The only difference I can tell is the baffle in the muffler. This black lever had it, possibly some black lever 026's don't? .... I'm not sure. This black lever saw had a "D" shaped combustion chamber, where the red levers I've had are all hemispherical combustion chambers. At any rate, once the baffle was removed and muffler outlet was modified I wouldn't be able to tell it from a red lever that had the same muffler outlet modified. From what I've seen, the muffler baffle and Combustion chamber shape are the only two differences. Some others might have more to share.
Ben Hall thanks for the info. I am going to be picking up that 026 pro, it’s probably the cleanest one I’ve seen on the used market thus far. I’m pretty stoked about it. Debating on if I should port it or leave it stock. It’s so clean and nice I don’t really wanna mess with it to be honest. Not yet anyway. We’ll see.
Will watch for it thanks. My ms310 cuts nice with the muffler drilled out a little and carb adjustment, but there’s always room to improve performance.
The title seems to suggest that the 026 is the same saw as the MS 260. They aren't even in the same league. I wouldn't trade my old, well worn 026 for two brand new MS 260s.
I prefer the older "red lever" 026 myself for the hemispherical combustion chamber if I'm looking for "punch" in a modified saw. To me, with a stock saw, I don't see a noticeable difference between the two. Aside from the ms260 having a much better air filter setup, they're more or less the same saw. I'd happily run either. Just one man's opinion of course. I can respect yours.
Assuming your clutch drum is already set up for a rim drive sprocket.......I use this one. If you read the description, there is a measurement to make sure it'll fit your clutch drum. Some of the EARLY 026 saws had a different spline size. www.ebay.com/itm/OEM-Stihl-Chainsaw-Clutch-Drum-Rim-Sprocket-P-7-3-8LP-Picco-7T-0000-642-1240-/174206124557
The rim drive sprockets for these 026s have a smaller inner spline size than other stihl models do. I believe Stihl refers to it as the MS7 it's the same as the smaller ms180, etc. use I believe.
Man what a difference. Don't know if you give your numbers out but I got a new Hyway cylinder for my 026 that i wanna port. I'm thinking exhaust opening around 100-102 deg. and a total of 150-155 intake timing.
Not sure if you plan on doing lathe/mill work or not. Also not sure where the numbers are on the Hyway cylinder. The factory cylinders have a fairly high exhaust port to begin with. Factory most are Intake - 71° / 142° duration Exhaust - 96° / 168° duration Transfers - 120° / 24° blowdown Port widths are right around 22.5mm wide After port work I end up at Intake - 76°-78° / 152°-156° duration Exhaust - 96° / 168° duration Transfers - 120° / 24° blowdown Port widths 25.4mm wide I've never had one land as low as 100-102° on the exhaust, but I like those numbers if you can get there. The 026/260 has a really tight crank case, so I tend to run them around the 152-156 range personally. I'd say your numbers are great numbers depending on where the upper transfers land in that hyway cylinder.
@@samishsawworks5870 No lathe work, just base gasket delete with the hyway cylinder. The numbers were, intake at 72° Exhaust at 102° Transfers at 127° I changed the intake to 75° and widened the lower transfers a little. It has a crazy compression of 230psi after assembly. No idea how it'll be in wood, only had it idle so far. Time will tell how it'll perform. Much appreciate your info, it helped a lot.
@@edwingroening5087 did you check squish clearance?! I've never had one that had enough clearance without a base gasket. They have a very tight squish tolerance to begin with. Factory anyway
That's awesome! Great numbers. A factory cylinder would never get there without work. I'll have to put that in the memory bank. Thanks! Happy to hear it! They're terrific little saws. Great work!
That saw sings! i just picked up an 026 in great shape but stock, ive already opened the muffler outlet a little l, i want to do more. I see you made the openings absolutely huge? they look to be about 150% of the port on the exhaust ? isnt 80-90% reccomended or do you manage it because of the screens reducing the size? thanks!
Yes the screens block a lot of cross sectional area. Also the 2nd saw is ported, it's moving a lot more air fuel mixture in and exhaust out than a factory saw. Everyone has different opinions on the matter. I open my exhaust up more than some. I've noticed gains every step of the way the more I open one up, but at some point the added fuel consumption and noise generated isn't worth the gains.
Not sure what your muffler looks like, but at 4:19 in the video there's a shot of the most common stock outlet. On a stock saw with NO spark screen I'd open it up in a rectangle to match the inside size of the upper raised part that the stock outlet hole is in. Not sure if that makes sense.
@@samishsawworks5870 My muffler is the same as yours at 4 minutes. I see that you have opened up the exhaust side of the cylinder also which explains the extra large muffler holes! But its way bigger than i think i could go!! did you delete the base gasket also?
@@raggamuffin2809 Most of these 026's are too tight in the squish area to just delete a gasket. Like, REALLY tight with gasket delete. I do however make a thinner gasket to desired thickness. Most of these I build, I set the squish to .018"-.020"
@@samishsawworks5870 Cool man! I just finished cleaning it up and put it back together. I really went to town sanding and smoothing and slightly raising exhaust side, also removed some gasket material and lip on the muffler, opened a second port and got a thinner stihl base gasket .5. it has 170 psi cold, tuned it up as per your carb video, and wow what an absolute rad little saw! Not bad at all for 150 bucks canadian and 21 years old! cheers for your insight!
It's a ms440/460 3/4 wrap handle. If you can't find oem, aftermarket can be found relatively cheap. You have to drill one hole in the bottom of the handle when you get it, about 1/4" from an existing hole. Other than that, it bolts right up. www.ebay.com/itm/FULL-WRAP-AROUND-HANDLE-FITS-STIHL-044-046-MS440-MS460-MS461-HOLZFFORMA-G444-G46/283821558602?hash=item4215154b4a:g:H~4AAOSwPhNfhJfb
Same saw Model, but two completely different saws & two different muffler types. The first saw is stock and 2nd one is ported with internal cylinder work done to the intake, exhaust, and transfers. Here is the first "stock saw," with & without the baffle in the muffler. th-cam.com/video/xMxK-o5n6SY/w-d-xo.html
I'll be honest, I don't port those little guys anymore. I've done a few 192's & 201's and the gains just aren't there for the time invested in my eyes. Basically, it's too time consuming to make it worth my while with those little cylinders.......from a 💲 standpoint. Those 193's with a decent muffler mod & timing advance aren't that far off from one with full port work. This is just one man's opinion of course.
If you're talking about the 3/4 wrap handle, you can buy them anywhere. I just buy them on ebay. It's a Stihl 044/440/046/460 handle. You have to drill one hole about 1/4" away from an existing hole for one of the bottom mounting screws. Other than that it's a direct fit. www.ebay.com/itm/FULL-WRAP-AROUND-HANDLE-FITS-STIHL-044-046-MS440-MS460-MS461-HOLZFFORMA-G444-G46/283821558602?hash=item4215154b4a%3Ag%3AH%7E4AAOSwPhNfhJfb
The only difference I can tell is the baffle inside the muffler. This black lever had it, possibly some black lever 026's don't? .... I'm not sure. This black lever saw had a "D" shaped combustion chamber, where the red levers I've had are all hemispherical combustion chambers. At any rate, once the baffle was removed and muffler outlet was modified I wouldn't be able to tell it from a red lever that had the same muffler outlet modified. From what I've seen, the muffler baffle and Combustion chamber shape are the only two differences. Some others might have more to share.
It's kinda bonkers here to be honest. I have had 5 or 6 and I used to scoop them for $100-150. Right now stock 026/260's in good condition, are selling here for anywhere from $250-600. Most being right around the $400 mark.
@@samishsawworks5870 yeah that sounds right. Ive got the same setup. 24" bar, gasket deleted and ported exhaust. These things are easily worth 500 on the daily. Btw, love the 3/4 wrap thing you set yours up with. What company makes those?
@@reimerhagen2256 is a 044/ms440 handle. A factory one will fit, but this one is made out of chinesium. It's a farmertec handle. You have to drill one extra hole for a screw in the bottom, but that's it. Other than that it fits without issue. www.ebay.com/itm/284236455063?hash=item422dd01c97:g:~zgAAOSwN7ZgYIKU
@@samishsawworks5870 lol. Farmertec... wait. Isn't that the company that makes those blue and white knock off Stihl's? Think i saw a TH-cam video about em🤔
Old comment, but for anyone that may read this and really follow that closely......... 026's all had 44mm pistons Stihl changed the name from 026 to MS260 in 2001. The first MS260s came with 44mm pistons until 2004 when they switched over to 44.7mm Generally speaking the following applies Stihl 026 - 48.7cc Bore - 44mm Stroke - 32mm Stihl MS260 - 50.2CC Bore - 44.7mm Stroke - 32mm
I just acquired a used 026 at work, poorly tuned, dirty and not taken care of. Idle extremely high and lean, honestly surprised it hadn't popped over the years.
A quick jet reset (low was turned out close to 2.5 turns and high was at 1). Little ear tuning, cleaning and good sharpen, and it's 100x the saw it was.
After watching this, I plan on pulling the muffler apart and doing a little porting and open it up as well.
Great job on a 1/3 reduction in cutting time!
I grew up on Husqvarna, my favorite bing an original 254XP that has cut well over a million BF of Cedar/Spruce/Pine.
When my father knew he wasn't going to be around much longer due to cancer, we sat in the basement havibg a beer one evening and he asked me which saw I wanted him to give me (372XP, 455 Rancher, 385XP, 394XP or the 254), my immediate choice was my favorite over all.
And it still works amazingly.
Only thing done to it was the baffle actually broke loose during use years ago, so I removed it and it still sings.
Good port job man that's 1 of the best 026 I've seen run
Thank you
Holy shit that ported 026 screams!! Its nice to get more power outta smaller saws so your back dont break like it does using bigger saws. Nice job!!
I had a 20" bar on it for comparison, but this one normally runs a 24" 3/8 Picco/LP setup. It's my go to for limbing and felling smaller trees. It feels like a featherweight after running anything else haha
Awesome little saws . I’m running a 25” .050 3/8 skip tooth chisel with an imported 026 . Been super strong after having Madsens doing sone carb work . I might have to get it ported . That’s impressive .
Very cool. What is the 026 PRO? I have one that I bought new in the late 90's and hardly ever used.
Hello, what did you do to make this 026 so powerful? Is it possible to have an explanatory video? it does not fear for the material? thank you
Wow! Huge difference...do u recall what mind of rpm u were running with no load on the ported one?
Amigo vc acha qui apenas o escap mais aberto qui fes a difetença ? Ficou otima 🔥👏👏👏
I'd really like to know what numbers your running for your port work iv done a handful and can't seem to find the perfect mix for numbers
Of course there is always more that goes into it than "just a set of numbers." There are so many different ways to skin a cat. That being said, I've found that the factory cylinders have a fairly high exhaust port to begin with. Factory most are
Intake - 71° / 142° duration
Exhaust - 96° / 168° duration
Transfers - 120° / 24° blowdown
Port widths are right around 22.5mm wide
After port work I end up at
Intake - 76°-78° / 152°-156° duration
Exhaust - 96° / 168° duration
Transfers - 120° / 24° blowdown
Port widths 25.4mm wide
The 026/260 has a really tight crank case, so I tend to run them with the intake around the 152°-156° range personally. Some saws you can push, but I've found these are really happy around the 76°/152° duration of you are widening the port. Much lower and they get pretty sluggish off the line & produce a lot of spit back.
@@samishsawworks5870 So do you touch the transfers at all, or leave them as is?
@@CommanderKing453 I smooth/blend the harsh ledge at the bottom of the lower transfer & open it up a touch more, but not a lot. I stretch the upper a bit width wise, but I don't raise them any. I leave the exhaust and upper transfer timing alone on these & just widen the ports as they're pretty spot on from the factory in my opinion. If you email me at samishsawworks@gmail.com I can send you pictures if you'd like.
@@samishsawworks5870 Great info, thanks for the reply. I will send you an email. I am getting prepared to port my first saw, and I am trying to get as much info as I can get.
@@CommanderKing453 how did it go?
Ported mine to but it didn't give me any more RPM but it did give it a lot of bottom end pull
@shawnlonge373 All depends on where you land for numbers and port shapes, etc. So many places to land when grinding on cylinders. Don't always gain RPM with porting. All depends on what you're after. Unless I'm playing, I'll almost always take bottom end grunt/pull over RPM. Nice work bud!!
Damn that saw runs good
What carburetor are you running on these? Stock air filter?
Hello :)
You made the impossible possible, incomprehensible to me - Thank you for your posted video. Greetings from Germany. 👌💪👍
What did you use to fab the side deflector?
The difference between red and black lever is the muffler? Anything else? I mite be picking up a mint 026 pro black lever. I got a few boxes of old Stihl mufflers to dig through so I can probably find a non baffle 026 muffler.
Any 026 is great! Get it! ;) Red or black lever wouldn't make any difference to me if I was buying. The only difference I can tell is the baffle in the muffler. This black lever had it, possibly some black lever 026's don't? .... I'm not sure. This black lever saw had a "D" shaped combustion chamber, where the red levers I've had are all hemispherical combustion chambers. At any rate, once the baffle was removed and muffler outlet was modified I wouldn't be able to tell it from a red lever that had the same muffler outlet modified. From what I've seen, the muffler baffle and Combustion chamber shape are the only two differences. Some others might have more to share.
Ben Hall thanks for the info. I am going to be picking up that 026 pro, it’s probably the cleanest one I’ve seen on the used market thus far. I’m pretty stoked about it. Debating on if I should port it or leave it stock. It’s so clean and nice I don’t really wanna mess with it to be honest. Not yet anyway. We’ll see.
How did you mill the exhaust to port it?
I have one that will be on the bench really soon in I'll try and do an in depth Video.
Will watch for it thanks. My ms310 cuts nice with the muffler drilled out a little and carb adjustment, but there’s always room to improve performance.
@@samishsawworks5870 Did you ever get out that video of how you port it?
This is really the beste performance I've ever seen on the 026💪
The title seems to suggest that the 026 is the same saw as the MS 260. They aren't even in the same league. I wouldn't trade my old, well worn 026 for two brand new MS 260s.
Why not tho? They arent 100% the same but they do share alot of parts and their power to weight ratio is almost the same.
I prefer the older "red lever" 026 myself for the hemispherical combustion chamber if I'm looking for "punch" in a modified saw. To me, with a stock saw, I don't see a noticeable difference between the two. Aside from the ms260 having a much better air filter setup, they're more or less the same saw. I'd happily run either. Just one man's opinion of course. I can respect yours.
When you’re running the cannon bar on your 026 what kind of sprocket are you using to change it to 3/8’s LP chain?
Assuming your clutch drum is already set up for a rim drive sprocket.......I use this one. If you read the description, there is a measurement to make sure it'll fit your clutch drum. Some of the EARLY 026 saws had a different spline size.
www.ebay.com/itm/OEM-Stihl-Chainsaw-Clutch-Drum-Rim-Sprocket-P-7-3-8LP-Picco-7T-0000-642-1240-/174206124557
@@samishsawworks5870 thank you for pointing me in the right direction. I’ll have to measure that to be sure. Love your content man.
The rim drive sprockets for these 026s have a smaller inner spline size than other stihl models do. I believe Stihl refers to it as the MS7 it's the same as the smaller ms180, etc. use I believe.
@@samishsawworks5870 I’ll compare it to the one on my ms-210
Man what a difference. Don't know if you give your numbers out but I got a new Hyway cylinder for my 026 that i wanna port. I'm thinking exhaust opening around 100-102 deg. and a total of 150-155 intake timing.
Not sure if you plan on doing lathe/mill work or not. Also not sure where the numbers are on the Hyway cylinder. The factory cylinders have a fairly high exhaust port to begin with. Factory most are
Intake - 71° / 142° duration
Exhaust - 96° / 168° duration
Transfers - 120° / 24° blowdown
Port widths are right around 22.5mm wide
After port work I end up at
Intake - 76°-78° / 152°-156° duration
Exhaust - 96° / 168° duration
Transfers - 120° / 24° blowdown
Port widths 25.4mm wide
I've never had one land as low as 100-102° on the exhaust, but I like those numbers if you can get there. The 026/260 has a really tight crank case, so I tend to run them around the 152-156 range personally. I'd say your numbers are great numbers depending on where the upper transfers land in that hyway cylinder.
@@samishsawworks5870 No lathe work, just base gasket delete with the hyway cylinder. The numbers were, intake at 72°
Exhaust at 102°
Transfers at 127°
I changed the intake to 75° and widened the lower transfers a little. It has a crazy compression of 230psi after assembly. No idea how it'll be in wood, only had it idle so far. Time will tell how it'll perform.
Much appreciate your info, it helped a lot.
@@edwingroening5087 did you check squish clearance?! I've never had one that had enough clearance without a base gasket. They have a very tight squish tolerance to begin with. Factory anyway
@@samishsawworks5870 Yes, the squish is right around 22thou.
That's awesome! Great numbers. A factory cylinder would never get there without work. I'll have to put that in the memory bank. Thanks! Happy to hear it! They're terrific little saws. Great work!
That saw sings! i just picked up an 026 in great shape but stock, ive already opened the muffler outlet a little l, i want to do more. I see you made the openings absolutely huge? they look to be about 150% of the port on the exhaust ? isnt 80-90% reccomended or do you manage it because of the screens reducing the size? thanks!
Yes the screens block a lot of cross sectional area. Also the 2nd saw is ported, it's moving a lot more air fuel mixture in and exhaust out than a factory saw. Everyone has different opinions on the matter. I open my exhaust up more than some. I've noticed gains every step of the way the more I open one up, but at some point the added fuel consumption and noise generated isn't worth the gains.
Not sure what your muffler looks like, but at 4:19 in the video there's a shot of the most common stock outlet. On a stock saw with NO spark screen I'd open it up in a rectangle to match the inside size of the upper raised part that the stock outlet hole is in. Not sure if that makes sense.
@@samishsawworks5870 My muffler is the same as yours at 4 minutes. I see that you have opened up the exhaust side of the cylinder also which explains the extra large muffler holes! But its way bigger than i think i could go!! did you delete the base gasket also?
@@raggamuffin2809 Most of these 026's are too tight in the squish area to just delete a gasket. Like, REALLY tight with gasket delete. I do however make a thinner gasket to desired thickness. Most of these I build, I set the squish to .018"-.020"
@@samishsawworks5870 Cool man! I just finished cleaning it up and put it back together. I really went to town sanding and smoothing and slightly raising exhaust side, also removed some gasket material and lip on the muffler, opened a second port and got a thinner stihl base gasket .5. it has 170 psi cold, tuned it up as per your carb video, and wow what an absolute rad little saw! Not bad at all for 150 bucks canadian and 21 years old! cheers for your insight!
I want one. It's insane.
Did the 440 wrap handle bolt on the 026?
You have to drill one hole in the bottom of the 440 handle about 1/4" from an existing hole. Other than that, it bolts right up.
Where can I get this handle for 026?
It's a ms440/460 3/4 wrap handle. If you can't find oem, aftermarket can be found relatively cheap. You have to drill one hole in the bottom of the handle when you get it, about 1/4" from an existing hole. Other than that, it bolts right up.
www.ebay.com/itm/FULL-WRAP-AROUND-HANDLE-FITS-STIHL-044-046-MS440-MS460-MS461-HOLZFFORMA-G444-G46/283821558602?hash=item4215154b4a:g:H~4AAOSwPhNfhJfb
So you cut the muffler out or used another one or......
Same saw Model, but two completely different saws & two different muffler types. The first saw is stock and 2nd one is ported with internal cylinder work done to the intake, exhaust, and transfers. Here is the first "stock saw," with & without the baffle in the muffler.
th-cam.com/video/xMxK-o5n6SY/w-d-xo.html
What would you charge to port a Stihl ms193t
I'll be honest, I don't port those little guys anymore. I've done a few 192's & 201's and the gains just aren't there for the time invested in my eyes. Basically, it's too time consuming to make it worth my while with those little cylinders.......from a 💲 standpoint. Those 193's with a decent muffler mod & timing advance aren't that far off from one with full port work. This is just one man's opinion of course.
@@samishsawworks5870 ok thank you
Big difference. Good job
Thank you
Hi.
Where did u get the aluminium handle on the 026?
0:38
Thank you :)
If you're talking about the 3/4 wrap handle, you can buy them anywhere. I just buy them on ebay. It's a Stihl 044/440/046/460 handle. You have to drill one hole about 1/4" away from an existing hole for one of the bottom mounting screws. Other than that it's a direct fit.
www.ebay.com/itm/FULL-WRAP-AROUND-HANDLE-FITS-STIHL-044-046-MS440-MS460-MS461-HOLZFFORMA-G444-G46/283821558602?hash=item4215154b4a%3Ag%3AH%7E4AAOSwPhNfhJfb
Theres an after market 036 wrap, it might fit better. A bit pricey though.
I'll check into that. I have an 036 on the shelf, I'll see if they're close enough to make work. Thanks
@@samishsawworks5870 oil mix 1:40 ?
@@Sensei948 yes, 40:1 in all my saws
I’m looking to put a full wrap on my 260 pro. Any suggestions?
Nice saw man it runs great!
Black lever vs red lever 026??
Some models had black lever some had red. There are subtle differences, but more or less the same saw. "Early" version vs. "Later" version.
The only difference I can tell is the baffle inside the muffler. This black lever had it, possibly some black lever 026's don't? .... I'm not sure. This black lever saw had a "D" shaped combustion chamber, where the red levers I've had are all hemispherical combustion chambers. At any rate, once the baffle was removed and muffler outlet was modified I wouldn't be able to tell it from a red lever that had the same muffler outlet modified. From what I've seen, the muffler baffle and Combustion chamber shape are the only two differences. Some others might have more to share.
What are these puppy's selling for in your area bud
It's kinda bonkers here to be honest. I have had 5 or 6 and I used to scoop them for $100-150. Right now stock 026/260's in good condition, are selling here for anywhere from $250-600. Most being right around the $400 mark.
@@samishsawworks5870 yeah that sounds right. Ive got the same setup. 24" bar, gasket deleted and ported exhaust. These things are easily worth 500 on the daily. Btw, love the 3/4 wrap thing you set yours up with. What company makes those?
@@reimerhagen2256 is a 044/ms440 handle. A factory one will fit, but this one is made out of chinesium. It's a farmertec handle. You have to drill one extra hole for a screw in the bottom, but that's it. Other than that it fits without issue.
www.ebay.com/itm/284236455063?hash=item422dd01c97:g:~zgAAOSwN7ZgYIKU
@@samishsawworks5870 lol. Farmertec... wait. Isn't that the company that makes those blue and white knock off Stihl's?
Think i saw a TH-cam video about em🤔
@@reimerhagen2256 👍 yup, same company.
I'll call that a big win.
Yeah, they really come alive with a little grinding.
Have you played around with any 034 supers? Curious how a modded 026 compares to a modded 034.
I haven't, but I have a standard 034 that I've been meaning to dive into. It's pretty ratty, but internals are spotless.
Yes
Black/red lever doesnt mean anything..red led lever 1st yr production.
Can't beat a good 026
👍👍👍👍🇺🇸🇺🇸🇺🇸🇺🇸🙏🙏🙏🙏
German tools
Cara
Jesus
It’s NOT sub 50cc’s! To be exact it’s 50.2ccs.. by comparison the ever popular Husky 450 is 50.2 as well! This thing is a beast.🫡🫡
Old comment, but for anyone that may read this and really follow that closely.........
026's all had 44mm pistons
Stihl changed the name from 026 to MS260 in 2001. The first MS260s came with 44mm pistons until 2004 when they switched over to 44.7mm
Generally speaking the following applies
Stihl 026 - 48.7cc
Bore - 44mm
Stroke - 32mm
Stihl MS260 - 50.2CC
Bore - 44.7mm
Stroke - 32mm