Another advantage to the 3/4 wrap handle on a smaller saw like that fun little 260 is for climbing and chunking out medium sized trees where you won’t need to hang a big heavy saw off your hip until you get near the bottom. Thanks Bennie!
A little bit nose heavy! That 24 inch bar would make it look like the Titanic. If I want a big set of dogs, I will grab one of my big saws. They have big dogs with roller chain catchers. I have an 18 inch .325 bar on my 026. I know it will easily pull a 20 inch 3/8 bar because I had one on it for a short period of time. It will probably pull a 24 inch bar, too, but I like nimble saws not a boat anchor to drag around the woods. I have cut hundreds of trees with a 16 inch bar, so I don’t jump to longer bars as fast as some folks.
I put one of those handles on a 461 once. Not bad really. Felt like steel compared to aluminum. And it was thinner than stock. Fitment was so so. Had to muscle it on while tightening down the screws.
Been wanting a wrap for my ported 038 mag and when done porting the 026, the top top of the handle looks fairly straight wonder if it can be narrowed up a bit to make it tighter to the recoil side, looks manageable in the video anyway see when I order a couple
@@samishsawworks5870 anything is possible! Just need some time to do it. Still haven't ordered any yet life has been a total roller coaster over here, but I do have a mig/stick and access to tig so anything is totally doable
@@waltervanhoose2557 It's off a Stihl 044/046/ms440/ms460. They're the same. You have to drill one new hole in the bottom of the new wrap handle, but other than that, all the other holes line up perfectly. Factory ones are harder to come by, so I've used the ones made out of chinesium with good luck. I buy them from various sellers on ebay or Amazon. www.ebay.com/itm/154375720056?hash=item23f1828c78:g:m9IAAOSwWIlfrAr-&amdata=enc%3AAQAHAAAA4PgZUaXWHHUkXKgtrRqewZs7XzzX7UGtbxmGRH2iaU0jbVi0OIWyNKYd7nRINUQbg3gMn2W8SPQbdbLqLYDhxA1ppht%2FB29obmbJ4uQB3DEQNrRZF1UuEGkhcz7C55bqt%2Bz1jlLia%2Bf%2FE0JA9P%2F47ewTh5QrCvp8O1YeqBQA3K0VEXKc5HDxx4MVvMAzupNLGg%2BeI2qVa5w1zQ5KcpMhWpNbV6lPlP9uTE3WkZiLlPRtyvk46Gj1kGvPGv76hwjeWkbB1xaStwGpPHEGSCKKA3ewPhFrHV8fIgPv2wZsEVIa%7Ctkp%3ABk9SR-TZ3tz9YA
@@samishsawworks5870 appreciate your info have you tried porting one of these I think with it ported and full wrap handle the weight and power would be awesome 👌
@@waltervanhoose2557 I've ported a few of them. They are hands down my favorite for light work/limbing. It's one I always grab to put in the truck no matter what.
@@waltervanhoose2557 at the 6 min. mark in this video this saw is bucking a nice sized fir log. th-cam.com/video/lVjXPWIhS6U/w-d-xo.htmlsi=LX4F44oardwNce2A
So how does that 026 handle the 25” bar? Isnt it a 49cc saw? I ask because im going to buy one tomorrow and am excited but everything i habe researched says nothing bigger than a 20” bar and ideally an 18” bar. I cut alot of oak trees here in texas amd solit firewood. I picked up a 550xp mark 2 and a 395xp amd fell in lobe with them but ive always wanted a stihl chainsaw. What are your thoughts on the bar length? Do i need to port it or muffler mod it to be able to push a 24” bar?
Hands down is my favorite sub 50cc saw. Here in the pnw where we cut mostly fir, cedar, alder, maple, etc. they are happy running an 18" bar when stock, muffler mod and timing bump they pull a 20" nicely. They absolutely need port work to pull a 24" bar&chain. I'll also note, that it's running a reduced weight 24" bar. Any 24" bar that's NOT reduced weight, is pretty taxing on the anti vibe mounts. This wouldn't be my choice for all day use in 24" wood, but it's perfect for 18" wood and under, and will pull double duty and buck a large log when needed. If you go to the 6:15 mark in the video below, you can see it running. It's in a 2ft+ fir log. This saw does have port work done to it. th-cam.com/video/lVjXPWIhS6U/w-d-xo.html Here is an 026 stock and with just a muffler mod pulling a 20" bar in chestnut for a reference. th-cam.com/video/xMxK-o5n6SY/w-d-xo.html
@@samishsawworks5870 so i ended up buying the 026. The cover uptop just says 026 not pro, but it has a decompression valve uptop. No adjustable oiler. Do you think its a pro model with the wrong cover? Also have put a new carb in it as it wont start unless i put gas into the spark plug chamber and itll start high idle 5 seconds then die. I saw that the fuel cap was actually leakimg not sealing right. Someone suggested that it wasnt holding pressure in fuel tank amd thats why it wouldnt put fuel into carb. Do you thing the fuel cap would be the issue? Once i get it running right id like to see how much you would charge to do the portimg and muffler mod or whatever else it needs. Piston looks great cylinder as well.
@@jaimecornejo2185 your cylinder has a decomp port in the top? If so, does it have a valve in it or a plug? Does the top cover have a hole in it for the decomp OR its it solid? There are some late "standard" non-pro 026 cylinders that had a decomp "boss" in the top. They came factory with a plug in them. People could add a decomp valve into the boss if they so desired. They had a regular non-pro solid top cover and no adjustable oiler. I'd say this is your configuration. Standard 026, not a pro version. Also, there was a crossover period, but most 026 PRO had a "see through" fuel tank as opposed to the white opaque tank on the standard 026. Also, am I reading you put a new carb on it, or you NEED to put a carb on it still? The fuel cap leaking and "not holding pressure" isn't what's causing the runnability issue.
Like filling the inside with glue,and putting some epoxy on hollow spot beside the screw,putting another layer of aluminium on the bottop part the handle where it screw onto the handle...something like that😁❤️✌️
It's off a Stihl 044/046/ms440/ms460. You have to drill one new hole in the bottom of the new wrap handle, but other than that, all the other holes line up perfectly. Factory ones are harder to come by, so I've used the ones made out of chinesium with good luck. I buy them from various sellers on ebay or Amazon. www.ebay.com/itm/154375720056?hash=item23f1828c78:g:m9IAAOSwWIlfrAr-&amdata=enc%3AAQAHAAAA4PgZUaXWHHUkXKgtrRqewZs7XzzX7UGtbxmGRH2iaU0jbVi0OIWyNKYd7nRINUQbg3gMn2W8SPQbdbLqLYDhxA1ppht%2FB29obmbJ4uQB3DEQNrRZF1UuEGkhcz7C55bqt%2Bz1jlLia%2Bf%2FE0JA9P%2F47ewTh5QrCvp8O1YeqBQA3K0VEXKc5HDxx4MVvMAzupNLGg%2BeI2qVa5w1zQ5KcpMhWpNbV6lPlP9uTE3WkZiLlPRtyvk46Gj1kGvPGv76hwjeWkbB1xaStwGpPHEGSCKKA3ewPhFrHV8fIgPv2wZsEVIa%7Ctkp%3ABk9SR-TZ3tz9YA
@@samishsawworks5870 Usually gets frowned upon leaving to many high stumps on Federal forest jobs and skidder operators dont care much for high stumps either.
We use the 261c's for ground saws and light felling with our tree service, great little saw's
Another advantage to the 3/4 wrap handle on a smaller saw like that fun little 260 is for climbing and chunking out medium sized trees where you won’t need to hang a big heavy saw off your hip until you get near the bottom. Thanks Bennie!
If you strapped a damn camera on once in a while, maybe we could see this.........;) haha
I definitely subscribe to this. I run a ms362 3/4 wrap 25" for my next step up after the 14" ms200t. Reach and light weight is king!
A little bit nose heavy! That 24 inch bar would make it look like the Titanic. If I want a big set of dogs, I will grab one of my big saws. They have big dogs with roller chain catchers. I have an 18 inch .325 bar on my 026. I know it will easily pull a 20 inch 3/8 bar because I had one on it for a short period of time. It will probably pull a 24 inch bar, too, but I like nimble saws not a boat anchor to drag around the woods. I have cut hundreds of trees with a 16 inch bar, so I don’t jump to longer bars as fast as some folks.
I put one of those handles on a 461 once. Not bad really. Felt like steel compared to aluminum. And it was thinner than stock. Fitment was so so. Had to muscle it on while tightening down the screws.
What model saw full wrap did you use for the 260? I want to do that to mine, I climb with it and this would be money in the bank!!!
Looks good. I recently started modifying my 260, and it is amazing what simple modifications can do to make the saw more effective.
Great size saw. I run all 261s but man they are versatile. 20” bar full skip chain 👌
Full skip on a 260 20 inch bar? It cuts good?
@@bricebeaulac I don’t have a 260 but the 261 handles it quite well. 20” 3/8 chain and full skip chain 33rsf Stihl chain to be precise
Been wanting a wrap for my ported 038 mag and when done porting the 026, the top top of the handle looks fairly straight wonder if it can be narrowed up a bit to make it tighter to the recoil side, looks manageable in the video anyway see when I order a couple
C CBC ff can n
I sure think one could "narrow it up" easily enough.
@@samishsawworks5870 anything is possible! Just need some time to do it. Still haven't ordered any yet life has been a total roller coaster over here, but I do have a mig/stick and access to tig so anything is totally doable
I ended up installing bumper spikes from a 326 on my 026 Pro. Stihl part number 0000-660-0800. Not super aggressive but very effective nonetheless.
Just looked them up. I really like like those! Thanks for the heads up!
Ben Hall no problem. Turns out they also fit a 261, possibly other models as well.
More great info! Love the 026/260 ! Thanks for sharing buddy! 👍👍👍👍🇺🇸🇺🇸🇺🇸🇺🇸🙏🙏🙏🙏
What bar and chain is this how many drivers?
Bar - Stihl 25" ES LIGHT .050 GAUGE
Chain - Stihl 33RSF 84 Drive Links
I put one of the exact handles on my 460. And I had to adjust the holes
I just added a new wrap handle on my Sthil ms 362 yesterday !
Where can I buy a full wrap handle for a ms260
So what wrap do you have on it one for a 044 or ms440 where do you order it at ?
@@waltervanhoose2557 It's off a Stihl 044/046/ms440/ms460. They're the same. You have to drill one new hole in the bottom of the new wrap handle, but other than that, all the other holes line up perfectly. Factory ones are harder to come by, so I've used the ones made out of chinesium with good luck. I buy them from various sellers on ebay or Amazon.
www.ebay.com/itm/154375720056?hash=item23f1828c78:g:m9IAAOSwWIlfrAr-&amdata=enc%3AAQAHAAAA4PgZUaXWHHUkXKgtrRqewZs7XzzX7UGtbxmGRH2iaU0jbVi0OIWyNKYd7nRINUQbg3gMn2W8SPQbdbLqLYDhxA1ppht%2FB29obmbJ4uQB3DEQNrRZF1UuEGkhcz7C55bqt%2Bz1jlLia%2Bf%2FE0JA9P%2F47ewTh5QrCvp8O1YeqBQA3K0VEXKc5HDxx4MVvMAzupNLGg%2BeI2qVa5w1zQ5KcpMhWpNbV6lPlP9uTE3WkZiLlPRtyvk46Gj1kGvPGv76hwjeWkbB1xaStwGpPHEGSCKKA3ewPhFrHV8fIgPv2wZsEVIa%7Ctkp%3ABk9SR-TZ3tz9YA
@@samishsawworks5870 appreciate your info have you tried porting one of these I think with it ported and full wrap handle the weight and power would be awesome 👌
@@waltervanhoose2557 I've ported a few of them. They are hands down my favorite for light work/limbing. It's one I always grab to put in the truck no matter what.
@@waltervanhoose2557 when ported, they definitely don't feel like a 50cc saw!
@@waltervanhoose2557 at the 6 min. mark in this video this saw is bucking a nice sized fir log.
th-cam.com/video/lVjXPWIhS6U/w-d-xo.htmlsi=LX4F44oardwNce2A
So how does that 026 handle the 25” bar? Isnt it a 49cc saw? I ask because im going to buy one tomorrow and am excited but everything i habe researched says nothing bigger than a 20” bar and ideally an 18” bar. I cut alot of oak trees here in texas amd solit firewood. I picked up a 550xp mark 2 and a 395xp amd fell in lobe with them but ive always wanted a stihl chainsaw. What are your thoughts on the bar length? Do i need to port it or muffler mod it to be able to push a 24” bar?
Hands down is my favorite sub 50cc saw. Here in the pnw where we cut mostly fir, cedar, alder, maple, etc. they are happy running an 18" bar when stock, muffler mod and timing bump they pull a 20" nicely. They absolutely need port work to pull a 24" bar&chain. I'll also note, that it's running a reduced weight 24" bar. Any 24" bar that's NOT reduced weight, is pretty taxing on the anti vibe mounts. This wouldn't be my choice for all day use in 24" wood, but it's perfect for 18" wood and under, and will pull double duty and buck a large log when needed. If you go to the 6:15 mark in the video below, you can see it running. It's in a 2ft+ fir log. This saw does have port work done to it. th-cam.com/video/lVjXPWIhS6U/w-d-xo.html
Here is an 026 stock and with just a muffler mod pulling a 20" bar in chestnut for a reference. th-cam.com/video/xMxK-o5n6SY/w-d-xo.html
@@samishsawworks5870 thank you for the reply. I appreciate it
@@samishsawworks5870 so i ended up buying the 026. The cover uptop just says 026 not pro, but it has a decompression valve uptop. No adjustable oiler. Do you think its a pro model with the wrong cover? Also have put a new carb in it as it wont start unless i put gas into the spark plug chamber and itll start high idle 5 seconds then die. I saw that the fuel cap was actually leakimg not sealing right. Someone suggested that it wasnt holding pressure in fuel tank amd thats why it wouldnt put fuel into carb. Do you thing the fuel cap would be the issue? Once i get it running right id like to see how much you would charge to do the portimg and muffler mod or whatever else it needs. Piston looks great cylinder as well.
@@jaimecornejo2185 your cylinder has a decomp port in the top? If so, does it have a valve in it or a plug? Does the top cover have a hole in it for the decomp OR its it solid? There are some late "standard" non-pro 026 cylinders that had a decomp "boss" in the top. They came factory with a plug in them. People could add a decomp valve into the boss if they so desired. They had a regular non-pro solid top cover and no adjustable oiler. I'd say this is your configuration. Standard 026, not a pro version. Also, there was a crossover period, but most 026 PRO had a "see through" fuel tank as opposed to the white opaque tank on the standard 026. Also, am I reading you put a new carb on it, or you NEED to put a carb on it still? The fuel cap leaking and "not holding pressure" isn't what's causing the runnability issue.
I live in upper Midwest and I like the bigger Dawgs so it will catch on root flare when falling by base.
I always wondered about that. Thanks for sharing!
What state in the Midwest are you? We have friends that grew up in Michigan. It seems like a pretty cool area.
N.W. Iowa. Michigan, Minnesota, South Dakota is real neat, Iowa is pretty insignificant.
I got one of those 3/4 wrap on my ms382,I modified it so it will last longer.
What did you modify on it?
Like filling the inside with glue,and putting some epoxy on hollow spot beside the screw,putting another layer of aluminium on the bottop part the handle where it screw onto the handle...something like that😁❤️✌️
Where did you get the 3/4 wrap handle for the 260 pro?
It's off a Stihl 044/046/ms440/ms460. You have to drill one new hole in the bottom of the new wrap handle, but other than that, all the other holes line up perfectly. Factory ones are harder to come by, so I've used the ones made out of chinesium with good luck. I buy them from various sellers on ebay or Amazon.
www.ebay.com/itm/154375720056?hash=item23f1828c78:g:m9IAAOSwWIlfrAr-&amdata=enc%3AAQAHAAAA4PgZUaXWHHUkXKgtrRqewZs7XzzX7UGtbxmGRH2iaU0jbVi0OIWyNKYd7nRINUQbg3gMn2W8SPQbdbLqLYDhxA1ppht%2FB29obmbJ4uQB3DEQNrRZF1UuEGkhcz7C55bqt%2Bz1jlLia%2Bf%2FE0JA9P%2F47ewTh5QrCvp8O1YeqBQA3K0VEXKc5HDxx4MVvMAzupNLGg%2BeI2qVa5w1zQ5KcpMhWpNbV6lPlP9uTE3WkZiLlPRtyvk46Gj1kGvPGv76hwjeWkbB1xaStwGpPHEGSCKKA3ewPhFrHV8fIgPv2wZsEVIa%7Ctkp%3ABk9SR-TZ3tz9YA
@@samishsawworks5870 thank you.
Lol🤦🏻♂️. Never mind. I made the comment before watching whole vid
I prefer more room for the hands on these smaller saws. Would not be that hard to cut and rreweld one of these to be a bit tighter.
Where do you get the full wrap for a 261?
Holzforma, its actually for an 044/046
I like it 🤙
Overall width is a downside if needing to cut low stump.
I agree with you 100%
Where I'm at, we rarely cut stumps that low. On the rare occasion it's needed, we usually have a saw with a half wrap.
@@samishsawworks5870 Usually gets frowned upon leaving to many high stumps on Federal forest jobs and skidder operators dont care much for high stumps either.
People pay 423$ fot that??? O_O
People pay $423 for what?