Cura Slicer Advanced Layers and Wall Settings for Better 3d Prints
ฝัง
- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 12 พ.ค. 2024
- Learn how to fine-tune your 3d Prints with Cura Slicer 4.11. In this video, I discuss the interactions between layer height, line width, and wall width with the goal of producing the cleanest possible 3d prints with the most possible detail.
Content of Video
00:00 Introduction
02:38 3d Printer Nozzles
05:22 Layer Height and Line Width
06:37 Wall Width and Line Width
08:03 Cura Wall Width Example
08:56 3d Printing Thin Walls and Fine Details
12:41 Fixing Gaps in 3d Prints
16:08 Wall Order Impact on Print Bed Adhesion
Here is a link to the earrings used as an example:
www.thingiverse.com/thing:290...
Here is a link to the slides used in the video:
docs.google.com/presentation/...
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The MakeWithTech channel teaches people how to use desktop technology to create, innovate and make things. If you are a "maker" and want to learn more about 3d Printing, 3d Printers, 3d Printing Slicers, Computer-Aided Design (CAD), or 3d Modeling, this is a place you should visit often. The channel includes additional content about using a wood lathe, woodworking, programming single-board computers such as the Raspberry Pi, Adafruit Circuit Playground, ESP32, and Python. Available reviews are about Prusa, Creality, Monoprice, ANET, JG Maker, and Flashforge 3d Printers. Slicers covered include MatterControl, Cura, PrusaSlicer, Flashprint, and IdeaMaker. CAD design videos cover TinkerCAD, FreeCAD, OpenSCAD, and Shapr3D. Slicers covered include MatterControl, Cura, PrusaSlicer, Flashprint, and IdeaMaker.
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Let's continue to learn together. Irv
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I've never seen anyone do such a clear and easy to understand explanation of cura settings. It's like Applied Cura Slicer 302
Hahaha, I was about to say the same thing specially doe the fact I am Not native English spiker ...
Wow.. did I ever learn something! Cura is absolutely amazing software. I will watch this video several times. Thanks for an excellent presentation!
Doing the images like you did instead of just screen recording is very much appreciated. Easy to follow even when watching on my phone which is normally not the case with my eyes. You really do have a good teaching style and method of presenting information that's easy to follow. Thank you for the time, effort and thought you obviously put in to making these videos!
This style of presenting makes it way easier to see
OMG! YOU JUST NAILED IT! I HAVE WATCHED SO MANY VIDEOS BUT YOU ARE THE ONLY TH-camR WHO DID REALLY A GREAT JOB IN EXPLAINING IT! YOU GOT THE LIKE AND SUBSCRIBE! THANK YOU.
Your channel is exactly what I have been looking for. Given the sheer number of settings, I’ve always been curious about the behavior of all of the settings and the butterfly effect of each in a real world scenarios. This channel definitely reduces a lot of the work of printing everything to see the effects. Your videos are appreciated!
Excellent, now I understand why the inner "dots" would not stick. I have tuned my profile and saved it as a separate one for detail work. As per usual, excellent knowledge presented in clear easy terms. Thanks.
Wow, thanks! That’s explains why everything I print falls apart straight off the bed.
I liked you using the static pictures with the greater detail! Excellent, thank you sir!
I love the Glue Gun analogy, Irv! I've never heard that one before, and it really made me smile, to hear you explain these principles in such a simple but effective way😊.
Thanks.
Thank you! This video has helped save the planet and my wallet. I’m new to 3d and am using my new neptune 4 pro in my small business which requires me to print small intricate details. I’ve had some success but it’s been hit and miss and you’ve just taught me a lot of useful steps.
Superb instructions! I now understand these settings and their impact on printing. I’m not the bluntest tool in the shed but making sense of some of this has previously eluded me.
Great video as always! I was just experimenting with wall over laps and meshing my walls with infill in my .6mm rig. So great timing with this video 😁
Very clear presentation. The format is the best you could ask for. Keep up the great work!
I have No words other than say :Thank You for making Time to teach us about this stuff , to share to us from your knowledge. You are Truly Gifted with a Teaching talent. You have my Sincere Respect for this . Best Regards .
Can't thank you enough for the information. You do a great job of explaining things w/o being long winded. I do training for industrial instrumentation and am aware of how much work it takes to put something like this together with all of the graphics. And if you do your own editing, it takes even more time.
Your time and effort are greatly appreciated.
Once again a fabulous and informative video. Thanks so much!
That explained very well, a few things I didn't understand about Cura and slicers. It would be nice if the other Cura settings were similarly explained in a different video !
This is great!
Great information, clean delivery. Thanks!
Learned several new things about 3d printers today. Thanks again for your great videos. They continue to inspire us.
Good stuff! Just started using Cura and 3d printing...these videos help alot.
This is one of my favorite videos so far! Thank you very much! Glad its 100% Make With Tech now. Fantastic!
Excellent! Great Info and very well presented!
Great video! Nozle sizes are a great way to make your printer feel like a new one. I'm on the 8th day of a 11 day print with a 0.2 nozle, fingers crossed it finishes OK Jeje.
Thanks , I was fighting a fine mesh lid print last week where the begining kep being pulled from the bed. This explains why. Should have printed the outer walls first so it had somthing to hold on to. Thank you for pointing that out.
Hi Irv. I seem to get some little bit of useful information from each of your videos, but this may have been the most instructive yet. Hope you do some of these types of vids featuring the Prusa slicer.
Thanks,
-greg
thank you, thank you, thank you! I find it really hard to find advanced (what i consider advanced anyway) Cura videos and this was so helpful, looking forward to this series. Please make it a long one!
You are welcome.
Here is a new playlist with some of my more advanced Cura videos:
th-cam.com/play/PLxa9m2nC6N93or1A97U90RAqDGcEtUGiU.html
So great! Thank you very much for your sharing!
Awesome video!
Ace Video, Super presentation and clear and precise instruction, Go to top of the class, A+++++
This is great. Wish I found this before I went and spent the time figuring all of that out…would really enjoy an update with cura 5.3 and beyond, I think there is even more to get into at this point.
Great video Irv. Learning something new everyday!
Very well presented!
Wow! thank you for this video! you are a true master!
Excellent video! Definitely learned something today!
Hi Irv,
Thanks for your videos. Renew on your new glasses ... happy Sukkot holiday
Your an angel of 3d printing thank you very much for your wonderful videos I Injoying learning from your videos very well done ❤️🥰 sending all the best wishes thoughts and prayers 🥰
Good video and explanation, totally my style 👍🏻
Well done understood that first time.
Excellent video. Great tips
a big thanks for this video really !!
OMG thank you Irv! I was just trying to figure out how to make my walls thicker by giving it more layers and I was just no understanding how to do that in Cura but I get it now, than you.
Glad I was able to help.
really enjoyed that. I liked your new presentation style, hope its not to much work
Nice! Thank you.
You are quite amazing.. thank you.
another great video!!!!
really useful big big thanks
Very clever!
Great video, you have another subscriber!
can u make a video that shows how you tuned extrusion and flow rate? perhaps retraction as well, or point me in the right direction. CHEP has a video how he lowered the retraction speed and got less stringing. well when I did Petg, I tried this and got a horrible print.
it's funny I can get great prints, but when I do a retraction test it's all strings. I tried playing with flow rate and no idea what I'm doing.
That's exactly the same weird thing that I also discovered 😅 my Technical Prints in PETG are beautiful without any Stringing but when I try to do the retract test it mostly looks like fluffy cat 😹
Like your videos. Especially since you're nearby. Question, is there a publication that contains entering i should do to set up my ender 3 v2 neo? Ill spend years watching all the videos on what to do. I keep getting bad prints and would like to eliminate our reduce it.
Super!
And when we want to stop again?
What do you have to do to add 3 colors?
Thank you for the nice video. I have a question about printing walls and I couldn't find an answer yet. Can we have different wall thickness on a model that is not cube-shape? For example let's imagine a cone with the tip cut off. Also on the inside it has a hole in shape of a cylinder. But let's say it also has some thickness to it so there will be some infill between the outside come and the inside cylinder walls. Now let's say that the interior is of no real esthetic interest to us. We only want a single wall there for example or even less, no wall at all. I know that we can print with no wall and put per model setting cube with a different wall count but that would not suit other shapes than shapes with flat faces. Is there a way to achieve this in any slicer? Thank you so much.
Thx
So I've completed calibrated my machine idk how many times and messed with slicer settings would printing to fast cause a bad top layer causing slight holes its with any filament and with different ranges of flow aswell
I have a burning question that you might be able to answer, as I have not seen it covered in any videos so far, and I've been searching a bit lately. I want to print a very fine detailed building that on the outside needs fine print settings, but on the inside it doesn't, and so I want to set the inside to max thickness to save time. I have been experimenting with multiple layers and thick skin to increase regidity, and the thinnest of support to hold up the roof, as I don't want in-fill, but a night light effect from my phone, which works very well. One of my castles takes over 40 hours to print, and I believe that i can get that down considerably. I only have a Adventurer 3 flashforge with there slicer program flash print. Its been updated quite a bit lately but I still cant seem to find this setting for interior vs exterior fine details settings... Is this possible in one of the other slicers? It seems that super slicer is the most customizable but theres no mention of this (yet) in any of the videos I've seen??? Is this possible??? thanks
Hi this is a comment for video I can't find right now of yours but you introduced me to kiri:moto which I've been using and having good results with I'm not sure maybe I could get something better but I have a Chromebook and cura isn't working even though I have it downloaded... anyways my question is would you please make more tutorials on how to use kira for more efficient slices.
Hi Irv in cura 5.0 there is no fill gaps between walls,what setting can be used instead??
Thanks
Great video Irv! I like to think of an FDM 3D printer as a robot with a hot glue gun!
👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍
how do i get smooth horizontal lines on my 3d print instead of rough, diagonal lines? thank you
When I print benchies it leaves a line on one side of the hull every time because cura is starting the new layer there. How can I set it so it starts in a hull corner?
I have a wall separation issue that just popped up and for the life of me I cannot figure out where it came from or how to solve it. Doesn't matter what filament type I use or nozzle size. A good example is I have a basic test cylinder 30mm OD 24mm ID and 10mm tall. Cylinder wall should be 3mm thick. Using a 0.6mm nozzle set to a 0.6mm wall thickness Cura only draws 4 walls. If I set the wall count to 5 it still just draws 4 walls. This causes the walls to not stick together. If I set the wall thickness to 0.675 it does the same thing but if I drop it to 0.55 it will draw the 5th wall but still not solve the problem. Wall printing order has no effect other than to effect dimensional accuracy. I've calibrated my e-steps multiple times and tried multiple nozzles. I've increased flow up to 105% and it never solves the wall separation issue. What I need is some sort of setting that forces Cura to overlap the edges of each wall a little to ensure that the molten filament absolutely makes contact with the previous wall. I figured wall thickness would do this but it is acting completely differently.
Did you Fix it ?
I assume you uninstalled and reinstalled Cura or tried a different Slicer or version of Cura,,, and tried the default settings etc,,
The fact it just popped up,,, sounds like you triggered a bug in the software-.
Good method of showing, A bit longer of the screen please; so not having to Pause the video so much
Compensate wall overlap is buggy as hell and should always be off, if you print any letters on top of or holes through an objects the walls of the whole or letters usually becomes separated from the objects itself with compensate overlap on.
Also doesn't arachne fix a lot of the issues with filling in thin walls and variable thickness walls ?
Isn't 3x4 12 or 1.2 mm wall thickness soo 2x of .4 line it will print but not only 1 line of .4mm
Noob question: Which to change when Wall Thickness over Wall Line Count?
Why wouldn't the options of print thin walls and fill in gaps always be turned on as a default? Or should I say why wouldn't you want to do this?
Hmm... Just a guess, but..
Looking at the prints there is a lot more printing going on. That, of course, means that print times will increase too.
Especially in large prints, print times could be increased dramatically. So - As long as it's not really needed I think it's better to not turn it on by default. As said, it's just my guess though...
@@jclosed2516 Makes sense, thanks.
Do you have thin Wallström and full in gaps always on?
Why ytou did`t use the darkmode in FreeCAD, my Eyes are burning now.... :-P anyway it was an good tutorial Video for me :-)
And Cura have an Darkmode too ;-)
I never understood why Cura considers a line width that is equal to the nozzle size to be a thin wall. If my nozzle is 0.4 it can produce a line that is 0.4, and Cura should slice that line without the "print thin wall" setting. if the line would be less than my nozzle size, then it makes sense, but what does not make sense is to consider a line equal to my nozzle size to be a thin wall.
why would a line that is 0.41 not be a thin wall, but 0.4 is a thin wall. makes no sense
Woffle
Calls this an "advanced topic" video, spends time comparing a 3D printer to a hot glue gun.........get to the content. Less "fluff" and more "stuff" please. SKIP to @6:38 to see anything of the topic.