You just exposed my dirty little secret! I've given a few 3D printed coaster sets to friends and family as gifts using a similar method! I discovered something similar to this while trying to print a circular lid for a cylindrical container and it failed after about ten 0.1mm layers, I had 2 base layers, 8 layers of 15% cubic infill and 2 top layers and the result ends up looking *really* good in gold Prusament! I ended up going straight into Cura and replicating the 1mm thick coasters. What I really like about the way mine happened accidentally is because the entire thing is so thin and the top and bottom layers are about 0.2mm each, you're looking through a solid but slightly translucent glittery plastic and seeing the infill patterns inside but you're not quite able to see all the way through them! Wish I could post pictures in a TH-cam comment section! I'll definitely try some thicker ones like these, they're probably actually functional for hot drinks! Thanks again as always, Irv!
Very interesting! I was messing around with a project where I wanted the raft to actually be part of the project because of the way the raft follows the shape if the project. I changed the air gap in Cura to 0 and added a top layer plus changed the distance the raft would be from the outside of the model to 10. Pretty interesting results. Love experimenting in Cura, definitely a powerful tool!
Very cool! P.S. I have started a new discussion forum at forum.makewithtech.com where we can all have more elaborate discussions and share pictures on our prints and printers. Check it out. Irv
@@AdamWebb1982 haha yes, I adjusted for that after first try yesterday.. I have printers at home and my boss got interested and bought two off me to use at work. I designed a quick circle the size of an opening we want to kinda dress up on a big digital printer, and that first one looked fuzzy but great, and the combing clicked
the concentric pattern does really good for supports as well as long as u use a roof an floor to connect it. they come off really easy an seem to use alot less filament an does best with circular prints.
Irv, did you get a new light for filming? It looks great. I love your tips for Cura, I'm a newb and your videos for Cura tips are really helping me a lot because the little descriptions within the program don't help much for newbs like me. Thank you
Thanks. I rearranged my studio about 6 weeks ago and added additional lights. Two things you need for good video quality is lots of light and an excellent microphone. I use a Rode Video Pro on a boom for my audio and I have 5 lights lighting my "stage". I also found that shooting my video in 4k and transcoding in Final Cut produces a much sharper product than shooting in 1080p (HD) which is what I was doing in the past and using it native. It does add significant time to the FCP import to transcode the video but it is worth it for the improved quality.
@@MakeWithTech the difference is notable. Please keep up this series. I'm very new to this whole thing, going on my 3rd month and all the settings in Cura are the most challenging aspect so far. This has been very helpfully and has not only improved my print quality but also the understand of how and what changes in Cura settings affect your print
Appreciated of course! For a graphic demo you might have created some of the coasters with the IDEX in two colors so you could see the various infill and wall. Perhaps that would bring too many variables I suppose. My 20x20x20 calibration cube is still not satisfactory which I am doing in black and white. Still requires adjusting offset of both X&Y axis for E2 but only requiring ~0.1 mm or so. Don't let the dust settle on the dual extruder please.
A great place to discuss this is at the MakeWithTech forum located at forum.makewithtech.com. At the free MakeWithTech forum/discussion group, you can also post images and examples of your work.
Was trying to get the infill pattern to go straight up and down for an airplane print but the lines kept slicing at 45 and 135 degrees. Was using the "Infill line directions" setting in the Infill section. Then noticed that some infill lines were at 0 and 90 degrees, like I had indicated, but not the top lines. Finally noticed the setting I was looking for was "Top/Bottom line directions" in the Top/Bottom section .
Thank you so much for this video. It really helped me understand more about the Ender 3 that my son just purchased (he is 13 so I am learning right beside him). I have a question. I want to make some coasters with designs in them like you showed but I want them to have a bottom. I can't figure out how to do that.
I assume you will have figured it out by now, but based on what he says in the video I assume you set the top layer to zero but leave the bottom layer at whatever thickness you want..
I tried to increase the thickness of the bottom layer to try to give it less transparency - Bottom Thickness was .8 now 2.4 mm bottom layers was 4 now 12 initial bottom layers was 4 now 12 then I saved changes with the small blue disc icon then sliced and saved it = no difference - what am I doing wrong ?
It would be helpful to select a top layer to be printed only for certain parts of the model and not only the entire top or bottom layer. I.e., different areas on the same layer height where some get the top layer printed and others do not, but also top layers printed at different layer heights like a ladder where only some of the steps get the top layer printed. I make over moldings where this option would save a lot of time and material.
My one job bottom dia 32 mm and 1 mm length middle dia 20 mm and 10 mm length after top dia 32 mm 1mm length total length for job 22 mm Cura default settings slice problem bottom 3 layer and top 5 layer so top and bottom thikness note maintain how solve
I think your initial picture of the types of layers has the top layer in that middle gap at the wrong place. A top has open space ABOVE it, so it will be at the bottom of the gap, not the top. At the top of such a gap you'll likely have a bridge or perhaps a bottom layer - I'm not sure when it will be considered bottom (ex. when supported, but not when bridged?).
Good point. The things I have found online are not clear about this point. I will do some tests and post back my results. Thanks for pointing this out.
Initially I was under the impression that monotonic top layer meant it only printed the lines in one direction, say left to right, and then just travels back to the left, not printing. But it doesn't. It still prints left to right, then right to left, back and forth, but with monotonic on, it makes sure that it will never prints e.g. left to right next to a line what was also printed left to right, as this would cause and inconsistency that shows as a printing artefact.
Thanks 👍 your videos are very useful and informative
greetings from Germany
You just exposed my dirty little secret! I've given a few 3D printed coaster sets to friends and family as gifts using a similar method!
I discovered something similar to this while trying to print a circular lid for a cylindrical container and it failed after about ten 0.1mm layers, I had 2 base layers, 8 layers of 15% cubic infill and 2 top layers and the result ends up looking *really* good in gold Prusament! I ended up going straight into Cura and replicating the 1mm thick coasters. What I really like about the way mine happened accidentally is because the entire thing is so thin and the top and bottom layers are about 0.2mm each, you're looking through a solid but slightly translucent glittery plastic and seeing the infill patterns inside but you're not quite able to see all the way through them! Wish I could post pictures in a TH-cam comment section!
I'll definitely try some thicker ones like these, they're probably actually functional for hot drinks! Thanks again as always, Irv!
This video is amazing. I'm going to watch it again and again. You're very clear thank you
You are quite a fount of information for a young man, thanks Irv, really enjoyed this one!
Since I am now on Medicare with a bunch of grandchildren I’m not sure I feel young. But thanks for the thought.
Man, Every video I watch is awesome. So much detail and quality content. Thank you!
Your videos have been very helpful for this newbie. Thank you!
I love the variety of your channel, all your video are put together so nicely and are always fun to watch!!
Thank you so much!
First video I saw from you and instantly subscribed, thanks a lot 👍🏽☺️.
Very informative and easy to understand and follow. Thanks Irv. Glad I subscribed.
Very interesting! I was messing around with a project where I wanted the raft to actually be part of the project because of the way the raft follows the shape if the project. I changed the air gap in Cura to 0 and added a top layer plus changed the distance the raft would be from the outside of the model to 10. Pretty interesting results. Love experimenting in Cura, definitely a powerful tool!
Very cool!
P.S. I have started a new discussion forum at forum.makewithtech.com where we can all have more elaborate discussions and share pictures on our prints and printers. Check it out. Irv
You have a great touch in explaining things - thanks
Awesome video! Cheers from argentina!
Haha a done this a few months ago. Had a lot of fun with it. Also used this method to make fan filters too with very fine infill.
Great idea Adam, thanks!
@@redherring5532 make sure you turn off combing and maybe do Z hop too, because otherwise any ooze will ruin the look.
@@AdamWebb1982 haha yes, I adjusted for that after first try yesterday.. I have printers at home and my boss got interested and bought two off me to use at work. I designed a quick circle the size of an opening we want to kinda dress up on a big digital printer, and that first one looked fuzzy but great, and the combing clicked
Love his videos … I’m a newbie to this
Great explanation thank you
As always you did a great job again …
Can you make the infill go out from the center like spokes
the concentric pattern does really good for supports as well as long as u use a roof an floor to connect it. they come off really easy an seem to use alot less filament an does best with circular prints.
Irv, did you get a new light for filming? It looks great.
I love your tips for Cura, I'm a newb and your videos for Cura tips are really helping me a lot because the little descriptions within the program don't help much for newbs like me. Thank you
Thanks. I rearranged my studio about 6 weeks ago and added additional lights. Two things you need for good video quality is lots of light and an excellent microphone. I use a Rode Video Pro on a boom for my audio and I have 5 lights lighting my "stage". I also found that shooting my video in 4k and transcoding in Final Cut produces a much sharper product than shooting in 1080p (HD) which is what I was doing in the past and using it native. It does add significant time to the FCP import to transcode the video but it is worth it for the improved quality.
@@MakeWithTech the difference is notable. Please keep up this series. I'm very new to this whole thing, going on my 3rd month and all the settings in Cura are the most challenging aspect so far. This has been very helpfully and has not only improved my print quality but also the understand of how and what changes in Cura settings affect your print
Appreciated of course! For a graphic demo you might have created some of the coasters with the IDEX in two colors so you could see the various infill and wall. Perhaps that would bring too many variables I suppose. My 20x20x20 calibration cube is still not satisfactory which I am doing in black and white. Still requires adjusting offset of both X&Y axis for E2 but only requiring ~0.1 mm or so. Don't let the dust settle on the dual extruder please.
A great place to discuss this is at the MakeWithTech forum located at forum.makewithtech.com.
At the free MakeWithTech forum/discussion group, you can also post images and examples of your work.
Was trying to get the infill pattern to go straight up and down for an airplane print but the lines kept slicing at 45 and 135 degrees. Was using the "Infill line directions" setting in the Infill section. Then noticed that some infill lines were at 0 and 90 degrees, like I had indicated, but not the top lines. Finally noticed the setting I was looking for was "Top/Bottom line directions" in the Top/Bottom section .
Very Helpful
OK. But how do you remove walls from selected areas? Like if I want passages inside a model that have exposed infill?
Informative and to the point
Thank you so much for this video. It really helped me understand more about the Ender 3 that my son just purchased (he is 13 so I am learning right beside him). I have a question. I want to make some coasters with designs in them like you showed but I want them to have a bottom. I can't figure out how to do that.
I assume you will have figured it out by now, but based on what he says in the video I assume you set the top layer to zero but leave the bottom layer at whatever thickness you want..
How can i make the bottom layer of a design solid? Made a coaster but the design I downloaded does not have a solid bottom layer.
Great tutorial. Thank you.
amazing，now I know how to print my fan grill faster
Excellent application fo this trick.
I tried to increase the thickness of the bottom layer to try to give it less transparency -
Bottom Thickness was .8 now 2.4 mm
bottom layers was 4 now 12
initial bottom layers was 4 now 12
then I saved changes with the small blue disc icon
then sliced and saved it
= no difference - what am I doing wrong ?
What if you dont want a line top and bottom and just want it smooth?
Very interesting video.
were in cura do you change resolution
Nice video!
It would be helpful to select a top layer to be printed only for certain parts of the model and not only the entire top or bottom layer. I.e., different areas on the same layer height where some get the top layer printed and others do not, but also top layers printed at different layer heights like a ladder where only some of the steps get the top layer printed. I make over moldings where this option would save a lot of time and material.
..is it possible to print a top layer on one section, but not on another - at the same time.
Thanks you have exposed the tools which I can use to improve my projects.
THANK YOU!!!!!!!!!
Cool.
My bottom doesn't seem to line up with the rest of my print
My one job bottom dia 32 mm and 1 mm length middle dia 20 mm and 10 mm length after top dia 32 mm 1mm length total length for job 22 mm
Cura default settings slice problem bottom 3 layer and top 5 layer so top and bottom thikness note maintain how solve
I think your initial picture of the types of layers has the top layer in that middle gap at the wrong place. A top has open space ABOVE it, so it will be at the bottom of the gap, not the top. At the top of such a gap you'll likely have a bridge or perhaps a bottom layer - I'm not sure when it will be considered bottom (ex. when supported, but not when bridged?).
Good point. The things I have found online are not clear about this point. I will do some tests and post back my results. Thanks for pointing this out.
Initially I was under the impression that monotonic top layer meant it only printed the lines in one direction, say left to right, and then just travels back to the left, not printing. But it doesn't. It still prints left to right, then right to left, back and forth, but with monotonic on, it makes sure that it will never prints e.g. left to right next to a line what was also printed left to right, as this would cause and inconsistency that shows as a printing artefact.
👍
I was watching at 1.5 speed and he sounds like a normal human.
Wouldn't it have been easier to just cancel the print halfway through instead of cutting it? Maybe it's more fun to saw it. 😂
Yep, sawing things in half are more fun.
@@MakeWithTech 🤣
I took a Calicat 😀
And I cut it open 😰
Proffs
Thanks for the video. Could you please make the videos shorter. Thanks again
Just wish he'd stop smacking his lips lol
Never noticed it. I will take a look. Thanks for the recommendation.
@@MakeWithTech videos are really great info