I am going to continue to optimize this profile and post-print images and results to the DrVax forum. You can follow along and make suggestions at: forum.drvax.com
I really appreciate the way you present your tutorials. it's easy to follow and allow time to absorb the information. Too many other presenters literally gallop along and unless you are fully up to speed with their level knowledge, you are literally left behind in the dust. So many thanks for your time and methodology you input to your presentations.
Thanks. Every video I find at least one comment saying "play at 2x". As you shared there are lots of videos for "experts". That is not my audience. I find it more interesting to help folks newer to technology or specifically what every subject I am covering. Thanks again. Irv
@@MakeWithTech The beauty of TH-cam is people can in fact play it at 2X if that works for them. Sometimes that works for me. Other times I'm rewinding 50 times because the presenter is going too fast. I love the pace of your videos for beginners. You might even get my mom into 3D printing.
Dr.Vax I'm so glad you are still with us! I believe I get more from your videos than most any other of the recognized channels! Please keep the good info coming and take care!
Excellent session. Great explanation. I’ll be replaying this one to take notes. Thanks for “taking the time” to pace the explanation and sharing it with us.
As someone new to 3D printing and going through reducing stringing right now, this is invaluable information. I liked, subbed and signed up on your forums. Thanks
Incredible! Cura has tried to give explanations to each profile with the hover mode with a description of what everything does, but it's kind of Greek to me. Thank you for taking the time to test, understand, and explain it in simple terms. Pictures were impeccable. I really appreciate you showing the difference between the Bowden and Direct drive systems and prints as I have just added an Artillery Sidewinder as my 2nd printer to complement my Ender 5. I hope you remain in good health and continue to show the differences in these 2 systems and how they create prints.
thank you for taking the mystery out of this! I have an Anycubic Mega S not many people comment about its capabilities but I am slowly learning! as a total novice, this has been VERY clear and understandable! I am also learning how to use Cura on my MacBook pro.
Thanks DrVax, this was very helpful for me to understand the issue, and how to solve it. After applying this info on my Cura profiles I have managed to greatly reduce stringing, mainly by reducing nozzle temps, and dealing with flow by dialing in the retracting and priming values, but I only managed this because you helped me understand what is going on at the nozzle chamber and what the slicers do here. I'm very grateful for your video. Best regards, José.
Thank you - I have been fairly successful with retractions and speed but it is the thin stuff that's getting me. For most prints on the Ender 3 (original), I have Retraction=5.5mm at 55m/sec. But as you pointed out in the video, < 2mm starts the issues. I had a feeling we needed to adjust flow, but didnt' understand all the settings and how it worked until I watched the video. Thanks for taking the time to make the videos - really great!!
I'm new to 3d printing (67M), just bought an Ender 3 v2, and have done pretty good using Hatchbox PLA and planning to try my hand with PETG. I've watched numerous 3d printing videos on TH-cam and yours are by far the best and most informative.
Amazing tutorial with very good explanation Doc. I am new user at 3d printer with my ender 3 v2 and i am just following your instructions at cura properties, and the results is amazing, almost no stringing on my printed object. thanks a lots Doc...
Thank you for the well explained video, all the other guys get off topic and go onto other crap, you helped me fine tune, thumbs up! Printing with a CR10-V3 Direct Drive. Trying to figure the magic on PETG.
I was instantly hooked when I saw you were testing a modified ender 5, because I also have a modified ender 5 and I've been hesitating installing the all metal hotend my wife got me for Christmas for... about 5 months now. Thank you for the time you put into this video! It was definitely information dense, and a lot of it I had a vague understanding of before, but I feel I now have a better mental picture now. I think the pictures and diagrams of the hotend were well placed for that.
thank you for this video. I practically had to go back to basics the get my stringing back under control. I use a reality cr-6 and a anycubic vyper. I got lucky with the vyper and had no issues with stringing with the profiles for pla tpu and abs that came with it. The cr-6 is really had to do a lot of test to get it right but your video nailed it and I got it right finally. Again thank you for this educational post.
Thank you for your videos, they are very helpful for me to get started in 3D printing. I have an ender 5-Pro that I just purchased and had problems with the extruder not working. I replaced the control board to 4.2.7 and downloaded the required software from Creality for this printer and motherboard. No BLTouch yet. I leveled the bed and started printing out the extension arms to stabilize the bed ( I'm an engineer and this seems like a good idea with the bed only supported from one end) . Printed about 2/3 then got very stringy and I had to abort the print. I then went to your video on stringy stuff and downloaded the latest CURA software (4.8) I was using Creality slicer. I ran the temp tower via CURA and loaded into printer. Printed OK BUT noticed that the temp on the LCD never changed for the various levels? Looking at the GCODE, which I have no background, I noticed that there was only 1 mention of M104, at the start of the print, and it looks like it was set to 200*C, is what the LCD said during ALL the levels. Do I need to inert the temps into the various PLA Levels, and if so, where does a new temperature level start? Thanks for your help , in advance.
It's interesting! Will be trying to use this as I've changed my heatbreak to Ti-all-metal. BTW, coasting must be off for the Linear Advance. Properly tuned LA gives parts without "bogger" defects.
Great video. I've watched it twice. Thank you. I'm new to 3d printing. Bought an Ender 3 Pro about a month ago. Upgraded to a Micro Swiss direct drive extruder and hot end. You answered a lot of questions. Between you & CHEP, I got two very good teachers with analytical brains. Although, I do get a kick out of Vlad the Unboxer. He unboxes anything.
Thanks for the comment. I am also a CHEP fan. P.S. I have started a new discussion forum at forum.drvax.com where we can all have more elaborate discussions and share pictures on our prints and printers. Check it out. Irv
Great video once again. I think it is important to note that being to aggressive with coasting and/or retraction will cause under extrusion. If you had to pick your poison, then stringing is by far the easiest to fix post processing. As you mentioned you can use your finger, scapel or a heat gun, depending on the severity. I would also love a video on PETG and stringing and how your settings differ. Thanks again!
Excellent information for my viewers. One of the keys to stringing with PETG is you have to dry it out before printing. I will be doing a video about this in the coming months.
I'm very glad that you are back with us DrVAX. Making very insightful and practical videos as always. I wish you and your family good health during this daring times.
Yep. It is easy to fall into bad habits when you return home from 3 weeks in the hospitable. Everyone wants to "fatten" you back up. It is a fight but important. In fact I was too fat to start so I want to lose about 10 more lbs plus the 5 lbs I put back on during my recovery. So 15 lbs in the next 6 months.
As someone who spent a decade in injection moulding, I can attest to the fact that the colour, amount and type of colorant used when creating a filament can absolutely have an impact on the chemical and physical properties of the material being created. Additionally, the quality and manufacturing process of the virgin material can also change the end result of what ever the final material is intended to be. There is a reason manufactures use lot or batch numbers when creating materials so that they can trace the differences between each run. I have a 1kg spool of matterhackers white that is so brittle that it breaks just from sitting idle while loaded into an Ender 3. The brittleness is indicative of FAR TOO MUCH colorant having been added.
Excellent information. Thanks for sharing. P.S. I have started a new discussion forum at forum.drvax.com where we can all have more elaborate discussions and share pictures on our prints and printers. Check it out. Irv
I'm new to 3D printing, first print in blue was great, tried a couple in the same brand black and failed, went back to blue and it prints great! The black I have seems to be more sticky and clog the nozzle then create blobs.
I'm looking farward to the Direct Drive Kit from MicroSwiss for the Ender 5. (no date yet, just "soon") about filament flow: wouldn't it be enough to just set the outer wall flow to 95%?
Thanks for this video been having issues with cura 4.6.0 on my tronxy-xy3. It was used printer so fixing that but the not having Internet makes it very hard. But my issues now is I get shifting backwards. But doing multiples parts I get failure print. What default that would work for the tronxy-xy3?
Thx (again). Excellent/informative, as always:) Oh, and wishing you continued good health after your recovery from that nasty COVID-19! Take care; and be well, fellow maker/teacher...
Thanks for your support over the past months. P.S. I have started a new discussion forum at forum.drvax.com where we can all have more elaborate discussions and share pictures on our prints and printers. Check it out. Irv
I just realized.. how do you get into your office area lol I'm jk I can imagine the video is for the setup. Thank you for all these videos and great enthusiasm. I am really enjoying everything that comes with this hobby. Hope your channel sticks around for years to come!
I also commented before watching the full video, this is exactly what I needed right now lol I just installed the microswiss all metal hotend and have been having blotchy, stringing prints. Gonna give some of these suggestions a try and the retraction suggestions from MicroSwiss as well.
I had a close call with Covid in March which had me in the hospitable for almost 3 weeks so I definitely hope to be around for a long time making videos about how to use technology to become a "maker". Thanks for your comment. Irv
@@MakeWithTech Oh wow, I am really glad to hear you made it out of the hospital! I'm 32 now and have been doing all I can to stay socially distanced. It is tough as I am normally a very sociable person, but your channel (along with our hobbies) help to keep me sane and busy. I wish you well on your recovery and thank you again for all your efforts, they are greatly appreciated.
I'm new to 3d printing and I'm using a second hand MP mini select V2. I've been working through my Cura settings and have pretty much gotten in dialed in except for an odd issue that APPEARS to be a stringing issue but I can't see my specific issue in any of the videos I watch. I've played with temps, coasting, retract settings etc and things are really good except for when the nozzle goes from tower to tower. There is no stringing on the training edge, (ie when the nozzle leaves one tower) but there are these odd "sprouts" that appear on the leading edge (ie when the nozzle approaches a tower). It isn't every time the nozzle leads into the tower and the strings are not the very fine, wispy, spiderweb type. When I say sprouts they literally look like plastic is sprouting out of the print. They are pretty much the same size as the nozzle (0.4mm) and they are not smooth but they are fairly straight. It looks to me like the nozzle is extruding plastic before it reaches the leading edge and some is pushed out and begins to cool before it touches the already printed edge. Then it sticks and the nozzle wipes it off and it's left sticking out of the side. They're typically around 6-7mm long so they aren't insignificant but they are very easy to remove. I'm using Cura 5.2.1 with PLA and printing at 190°. Speed doesn't affect this and retract is set to 4 mm/s but again none of the settings I've played with affect this. It's like it begins to extrude too soon.
I’m new at this and DrVax is my number one advisor. I totally solved my stringing problem with this video. Here’s some food for thought. I have an Ender 5 Pro in New York and had it working perfectly with no stringing after following DrVax. I packed it up and took it to the Dominican Republic. Everything worked fine with DrVax’s updated profile, except it started stringing very badly. Too make a long story short, I had to change nozzle temperature from my usual 210 to 195 on my eSun PLA+. Can atmospheric conditions like barometric pressure affect the printer’s performance? I will let you know when I’m back in New York.
Dr Vax is THE BEST. Difference between Dr Vax and other 3D print youtubers: Tech Bro TH-camr: "Yeah bro, you just like put your settings like this bro, and like, it should be like good, or whatever" Dr Vax: "This is what's happening and here is why it's happening"
@@MakeWithTech Haha, i guess that's the beauty of technology, they have the option to do that if they so choose. The important thing is that all the information is there for them to take in however is best for them!
Good question. I am not in the business of making custom profile but my hope is with the information I provide in my videos you can do this yourself. A good way to get help with this would be to post a question and ask the DrVax video viewers at forum.drvax.com for help.
Travel Acceleration > 2000 mm/s2 and Travel Speed > 150mm/s are most important parameters for me. Last year I have bought a delta style printer that has Bowden and even with 1mm retraction it printed perfectly my favorite test four_square_cons.stl . I have applied this to my other printers and it works and now I have short (1mm) retraction on all of my printers.
A problem with acceleration >2000 could be layer shifting. For my y axis 2000 is the absolute maximum and combined with high speed shifting will sometimes occur.
@@MetalheadAndNerd You can use better stepper drivers like tmc2209 or tmc5130, firmware features like junction deviation, s-curve, or switch firmware to Klipper. Sometimes small z-hop helps too. But if you have a big Prusa-style printer then you have to find different solutions.
I have an interesting and strange question. I use recycled material from PET bottles, the extruder wheel crushes the material when it passes through it more than once. This means that I cannot use the retraction option. I print mostly mandala patterns. I carefully observe the path of the nozzle and see that many times it moves chaotically through the whole model and this makes many strings in the empty spaces of the mandala. My question is - is there a way for the nozzle path to pass over the already built shapes and bypass the empty spaces? Yes this will greatly increase the printing time but will make the mandala completely clean. You know mandalas are patterns in which all shapes are connected, so following the shape you can reach any point without going through empty space. If there is still no such option in the software, it would be good to invent such a, can be very useful in some cases. Thank you very much for all your videos, you really research every problem in detail and explain everything very well.
The optimize Wall printing order will mostly affect printing of circles. The printer will print all walls of a circle before moving on to the next circle.
Great learning video from beginning to the end. Too bad the slicers cannot do multiple identical objects to test all the parameters between the objects at the same time, or is it possible? Also, could you also upload your "gcode files" for the temperature towers for the Prusa MK3S? I have a difficult time trying to do this myself. Thank you!
I did not hand code gcode for the tower. Instead I used the script "ChangeAtZ" which you can find in Cura by clicking on Extensions, Post Processing, Modify Gcode. You then select this script from the list.
Hello Doctor. For ABS printing in slicer is needed some special adjustance, and on the printer i must change something,the printer recognise the ABS Filament or it's needed some manual settings?
Quite good information. I would like to find some parameters to tune my MK3S using cura. I have very fine stringing between the towers, I don't know if it's even possible to prevent 100% of strining?
Removing ALL stringing is very hard to do depending on the filament type, brand and even color. Very fine stringing can be easily removed with a hair dryer or heat gun. But be careful that you do not melt fine features in your print.
Hello, I just came across your videos, Im using an Ender 3 Pro and is there any basic setup that differs from the printers youre using, because Im just switching over to Cura and there are so many options its abit intimidating trying to just get started with it.
the combing feature of cura is something I have got on my list to experiment with, in my current version of cura, it has been disabled to comb inside, which seems like it will place retract moves inside already filled areas
Thanks for sharing so useful video. In my ender 3 I have a direct drive E3D V6 clone extruder and when I print at 205c I get a lot of stringing, but if I lower the temperature to 185 I get no stringing whatsoever. The problem with this is I get weaker parts due less layer adhesion. So until now I have to chose strength or visual quality. BTW, I recommend the site 3doptimizer.com to easily tune the profiles in cura, prusaslicer and simplify3d using a wizard where you set some preferences, download the gcode, print the samples and get the best results. It's not perfect but it helped me a lot. There is a free option that can help to the beginners like me. Hope it helps.
I really can't find settings like "travel_compensate_overlapping_walls" anywhere in Cura, Can you translate to what the settings search calls them, because they are different?
I don't think you mentioned combing which can also affect stringing and print quality. Just for info I discovered Cura turns off retraction when combing so enabling combing can make stringing worse.
The problem I am facing, is I upgraded to bmg using bowden and I can't get rid of strings on my Anet ET5 using marlin. Slicer: Prusaslicer alpha3 Any suggestion? Thanks
Hello there, I bought a Creality cr 10s pro v2 printer. I am using Cura 4.11.0. I'm trying to print using the filament that came with the printer. Stringing occurs in all my attempts. I also loaded your settings and tried, the result did not change. I've tried tempfuntower and retractiontower test runs but still string is generated. No matter what I did. Do you know any settings with this printer? I couldn't understand if it was the filament that came with the printer or if there was a hardware problem with the printer. The outputs are fine but there is stringing. I would be glad if you share your ideas. Thanks.
Hey man can you help me please? I have tried so many different things from tightening my belts on ender 3 to highering temp lowering temp different filaments and for the life of me I can’t stop the print from having circles all over the top of the print.no matter what way I turn the print whichever way is facing up ends up with circles all over it almost like it’s designed to be there. Can’t find nothing on google atal. I have 2 ender 3s and the other one isn’t like this thankyou
In general I think they are excellent. I tried the CHEP Ender All Metal profile with my printer and in this situation it was no better than the standard Cura 4.6 profile.
if you did all of these and you still have stringing issues, calibrate your estepsmm and do a pid tune specially if you are printing low temp pla in all metal hotend 😉
Any idea why a printer would stop printing in the middle of a print??? print was fine up until it just stopped moving...machine did not shut off,nozzle temp and bed temp stayed same...could not resume of change settings... i had to power off and start a new print...than as like with the other it just stopped again 10 mins into the print.... i have fixed dozens of issues on 3d printers,but this issue is something i don't understand...PS i have printed this file many times with no issues... please help... thanks
![[MPD직캠] 베이비몬스터 직캠 8K 'SHEESH' (BABYMONSTER FanCam) | @MCOUNTDOWN_2024.4.25](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/QHf-2xSJzYE/mqdefault.jpg)
I am going to continue to optimize this profile and post-print images and results to the DrVax forum. You can follow along and make suggestions at:
forum.drvax.com
I wanted someone else to handle the hosting. I have the skills but not the time to handle the day to day maintenance.
Will you please post a screenshot of all of the settings you’re using?
I really appreciate the way you present your tutorials. it's easy to follow and allow time to absorb the information. Too many other presenters literally gallop along and unless you are fully up to speed with their level knowledge, you are literally left behind in the dust. So many thanks for your time and methodology you input to your presentations.
Thanks. Every video I find at least one comment saying "play at 2x". As you shared there are lots of videos for "experts". That is not my audience. I find it more interesting to help folks newer to technology or specifically what every subject I am covering. Thanks again. Irv
@@MakeWithTech The beauty of TH-cam is people can in fact play it at 2X if that works for them. Sometimes that works for me. Other times I'm rewinding 50 times because the presenter is going too fast. I love the pace of your videos for beginners. You might even get my mom into 3D printing.
Thanks. That is my plan. In general if I talk slowly 2x still sounds ok. But if I talk to fast rewinding is more painful.
Dont forget you can slow it down as well BUT yours is great speed
@@user-mz6qu3hz6m
Dr.Vax I'm so glad you are still with us! I believe I get more from your videos than most any other of the recognized channels! Please keep the good info coming and take care!
Excellent session. Great explanation. I’ll be replaying this one to take notes. Thanks for “taking the time” to pace the explanation and sharing it with us.
As someone new to 3D printing and going through reducing stringing right now, this is invaluable information. I liked, subbed and signed up on your forums. Thanks
Thanks for plenty of details and the clear explanation, as you usually do! Have nice weekend!
the best info for a true newbie . I would like to thank you for taking the time making this video . a big fan and student
Incredible! Cura has tried to give explanations to each profile with the hover mode with a description of what everything does, but it's kind of Greek to me. Thank you for taking the time to test, understand, and explain it in simple terms. Pictures were impeccable. I really appreciate you showing the difference between the Bowden and Direct drive systems and prints as I have just added an Artillery Sidewinder as my 2nd printer to complement my Ender 5. I hope you remain in good health and continue to show the differences in these 2 systems and how they create prints.
thank you for taking the mystery out of this! I have an Anycubic Mega S not many people comment about its capabilities but I am slowly learning! as a total novice, this has been VERY clear and understandable! I am also learning how to use Cura on my MacBook pro.
Great walkthrough
Thanks for sharing👍😀
Wonderful tips! Thank you very much. I'll be running some tests over the weekend based on your advice. Have a nice holiday weekend my friend 👍
Thanks for the comment. When you run the tests it would be great if you could post the results to the new DrVax discussion forum at forum.drvax.com
You are an excellent teacher! I always enjoy your videos. I am so glad you recovered from COVID 19. Thanks for sharing your knowledge.
Thanks DrVax, this was very helpful for me to understand the issue, and how to solve it. After applying this info on my Cura profiles I have managed to greatly reduce stringing, mainly by reducing nozzle temps, and dealing with flow by dialing in the retracting and priming values, but I only managed this because you helped me understand what is going on at the nozzle chamber and what the slicers do here. I'm very grateful for your video. Best regards, José.
Thank you - I have been fairly successful with retractions and speed but it is the thin stuff that's getting me. For most prints on the Ender 3 (original), I have Retraction=5.5mm at 55m/sec. But as you pointed out in the video, < 2mm starts the issues. I had a feeling we needed to adjust flow, but didnt' understand all the settings and how it worked until I watched the video. Thanks for taking the time to make the videos - really great!!
I'm new to 3d printing (67M), just bought an Ender 3 v2, and have done pretty good using Hatchbox PLA and planning to try my hand with PETG. I've watched numerous 3d printing videos on TH-cam and yours are by far the best and most informative.
You have no idea how excellent you are in teaching..
My new favorite Channel!! You were so helpful!!
Awesome! Thank you!
Amazing tutorial with very good explanation Doc. I am new user at 3d printer with my ender 3 v2 and i am just following your instructions at cura properties, and the results is amazing, almost no stringing on my printed object. thanks a lots Doc...
Amazing video and I love the deep explanations. Thank you!
Thank you for the well explained video, all the other guys get off topic and go onto other crap, you helped me fine tune, thumbs up!
Printing with a CR10-V3 Direct Drive. Trying to figure the magic on PETG.
Your speech pattern makes me think about the teachers I’ve had growing up. Makes me wonder if you were ever a high teacher.
Great video! Going to do some experimentation with some of the information! 👍
Thank you so much for posting these videos... as a newbie its been an adventure and I really think you explain things so clearly!!
Enjoy.
I was instantly hooked when I saw you were testing a modified ender 5, because I also have a modified ender 5 and I've been hesitating installing the all metal hotend my wife got me for Christmas for... about 5 months now. Thank you for the time you put into this video! It was definitely information dense, and a lot of it I had a vague understanding of before, but I feel I now have a better mental picture now. I think the pictures and diagrams of the hotend were well placed for that.
Excellent. Enjoy your 3d printer.
Great work. Informative and useful content. Thanks
thank you for this video. I practically had to go back to basics the get my stringing back under control. I use a reality cr-6 and a anycubic vyper. I got lucky with the vyper and had no issues with stringing with the profiles for pla tpu and abs that came with it. The cr-6 is really had to do a lot of test to get it right but your video nailed it and I got it right finally. Again thank you for this educational post.
Always great and helpful information
great video... just watched the half of it and already learnd a lot of thinks that may help me with my stringing ^^
Thank you very much!
Informative and practical 👌🏼👌🏼
Thank you Dr Back great video and information. You are a great teacher.
Great information! Thank you!
So informative, excellent! thanks
Good video! These are great to watch. I'm pushing the limits on a shallow dome with no support while catching up....
You can do it!
Great vid, Doc, as usual
Thank you so much for your help doctor Vax!
Thank you for your videos, they are very helpful for me to get started in 3D printing. I have an ender 5-Pro that I just purchased and had problems with the extruder not working. I replaced the control board to 4.2.7 and downloaded the required software from Creality for this printer and motherboard. No BLTouch yet. I leveled the bed and started printing out the extension arms to stabilize the bed ( I'm an engineer and this seems like a good idea with the bed only supported from one end) . Printed about 2/3 then got very stringy and I had to abort the print. I then went to your video on stringy stuff and downloaded the latest CURA software (4.8) I was using Creality slicer. I ran the temp tower via CURA and loaded into printer. Printed OK BUT noticed that the temp on the LCD never changed for the various levels? Looking at the GCODE, which I have no background, I noticed that there was only 1 mention of M104, at the start of the print, and it looks like it was set to 200*C, is what the LCD said during ALL the levels. Do I need to inert the temps into the various PLA Levels, and if so, where does a new temperature level start? Thanks for your help , in advance.
It's interesting! Will be trying to use this as I've changed my heatbreak to Ti-all-metal.
BTW, coasting must be off for the Linear Advance. Properly tuned LA gives parts without "bogger" defects.
Always informative DrVax
Thanks as always great video. Stay safe.
Very insightful. Gracias.
Great video. I've watched it twice. Thank you. I'm new to 3d printing. Bought an Ender 3 Pro about a month ago. Upgraded to a Micro Swiss direct drive extruder and hot end. You answered a lot of questions. Between you & CHEP, I got two very good teachers with analytical brains.
Although, I do get a kick out of Vlad the Unboxer. He unboxes anything.
Thanks for the comment. I am also a CHEP fan.
P.S. I have started a new discussion forum at forum.drvax.com where we can all have more elaborate discussions and share pictures on our prints and printers. Check it out. Irv
Another great job. Would it not be GREAT if all the world could learn all things together. Thanks Network00
Great video once again. I think it is important to note that being to aggressive with coasting and/or retraction will cause under extrusion. If you had to pick your poison, then stringing is by far the easiest to fix post processing. As you mentioned you can use your finger, scapel or a heat gun, depending on the severity.
I would also love a video on PETG and stringing and how your settings differ.
Thanks again!
Excellent information for my viewers.
One of the keys to stringing with PETG is you have to dry it out before printing. I will be doing a video about this in the coming months.
I'm very glad that you are back with us DrVAX. Making very insightful and practical videos as always. I wish you and your family good health during this daring times.
Your videos are all fantastic.
Glad you like them!
Hi Dr, V. AS always a very good video. I have a CR10v2 with Titan Direct injection. How would this impact your settings?
Thanks
Another great video Irv, you're looking good sir!
Thank you kindly
@@MakeWithTech now don't get too fat. ;-P
Yep. It is easy to fall into bad habits when you return home from 3 weeks in the hospitable. Everyone wants to "fatten" you back up. It is a fight but important. In fact I was too fat to start so I want to lose about 10 more lbs plus the 5 lbs I put back on during my recovery. So 15 lbs in the next 6 months.
super helpful, thanks
I do learn a lot. Thank you Mr. I definitely hit Subscribe
Thanks.
As someone who spent a decade in injection moulding, I can attest to the fact that the colour, amount and type of colorant used when creating a filament can absolutely have an impact on the chemical and physical properties of the material being created. Additionally, the quality and manufacturing process of the virgin material can also change the end result of what ever the final material is intended to be. There is a reason manufactures use lot or batch numbers when creating materials so that they can trace the differences between each run. I have a 1kg spool of matterhackers white that is so brittle that it breaks just from sitting idle while loaded into an Ender 3. The brittleness is indicative of FAR TOO MUCH colorant having been added.
Excellent information. Thanks for sharing.
P.S. I have started a new discussion forum at forum.drvax.com where we can all have more elaborate discussions and share pictures on our prints and printers. Check it out. Irv
I'm new to 3D printing, first print in blue was great, tried a couple in the same brand black and failed, went back to blue and it prints great! The black I have seems to be more sticky and clog the nozzle then create blobs.
I'm looking farward to the Direct Drive Kit from MicroSwiss for the Ender 5. (no date yet, just "soon")
about filament flow:
wouldn't it be enough to just set the outer wall flow to 95%?
Thanks for this video been having issues with cura 4.6.0 on my tronxy-xy3. It was used printer so fixing that but the not having Internet makes it very hard. But my issues now is I get shifting backwards. But doing multiples parts I get failure print. What default that would work for the tronxy-xy3?
Thx (again). Excellent/informative, as always:) Oh, and wishing you continued good health after your recovery from that nasty COVID-19! Take care; and be well, fellow maker/teacher...
Thanks for your support over the past months.
P.S. I have started a new discussion forum at forum.drvax.com where we can all have more elaborate discussions and share pictures on our prints and printers. Check it out. Irv
Hi @@MakeWithTech , I'm on the forum! "Let's build community together..." Thx. Wishing you continued success...
your videos are great
I just realized.. how do you get into your office area lol I'm jk I can imagine the video is for the setup. Thank you for all these videos and great enthusiasm. I am really enjoying everything that comes with this hobby. Hope your channel sticks around for years to come!
I also commented before watching the full video, this is exactly what I needed right now lol I just installed the microswiss all metal hotend and have been having blotchy, stringing prints. Gonna give some of these suggestions a try and the retraction suggestions from MicroSwiss as well.
I had a close call with Covid in March which had me in the hospitable for almost 3 weeks so I definitely hope to be around for a long time making videos about how to use technology to become a "maker". Thanks for your comment. Irv
@@MakeWithTech Oh wow, I am really glad to hear you made it out of the hospital! I'm 32 now and have been doing all I can to stay socially distanced. It is tough as I am normally a very sociable person, but your channel (along with our hobbies) help to keep me sane and busy. I wish you well on your recovery and thank you again for all your efforts, they are greatly appreciated.
I'm new to 3d printing and I'm using a second hand MP mini select V2. I've been working through my Cura settings and have pretty much gotten in dialed in except for an odd issue that APPEARS to be a stringing issue but I can't see my specific issue in any of the videos I watch. I've played with temps, coasting, retract settings etc and things are really good except for when the nozzle goes from tower to tower. There is no stringing on the training edge, (ie when the nozzle leaves one tower) but there are these odd "sprouts" that appear on the leading edge (ie when the nozzle approaches a tower). It isn't every time the nozzle leads into the tower and the strings are not the very fine, wispy, spiderweb type. When I say sprouts they literally look like plastic is sprouting out of the print. They are pretty much the same size as the nozzle (0.4mm) and they are not smooth but they are fairly straight. It looks to me like the nozzle is extruding plastic before it reaches the leading edge and some is pushed out and begins to cool before it touches the already printed edge. Then it sticks and the nozzle wipes it off and it's left sticking out of the side. They're typically around 6-7mm long so they aren't insignificant but they are very easy to remove. I'm using Cura 5.2.1 with PLA and printing at 190°. Speed doesn't affect this and retract is set to 4 mm/s but again none of the settings I've played with affect this. It's like it begins to extrude too soon.
Very informal
I’m new at this and DrVax is my number one advisor. I totally solved my stringing problem with this video. Here’s some food for thought. I have an Ender 5 Pro in New York and had it working perfectly with no stringing after following DrVax. I packed it up and took it to the Dominican Republic. Everything worked fine with DrVax’s updated profile, except it started stringing very badly. Too make a long story short, I had to change nozzle temperature from my usual 210 to 195 on my eSun PLA+. Can atmospheric conditions like barometric pressure affect the printer’s performance? I will let you know when I’m back in New York.
Dr Vax is THE BEST. Difference between Dr Vax and other 3D print youtubers:
Tech Bro TH-camr: "Yeah bro, you just like put your settings like this bro, and like, it should be like good, or whatever"
Dr Vax: "This is what's happening and here is why it's happening"
Thanks. I try to be clear. Some viewers complain I speak too slowly and watch my videos at 2x. 😀
@@MakeWithTech Haha, i guess that's the beauty of technology, they have the option to do that if they so choose. The important thing is that all the information is there for them to take in however is best for them!
Thank you for your tips tuning Stringing , can you make profile for PrusaSlicer with Ender 3 Pro with Direct Drive
Good question. I am not in the business of making custom profile but my hope is with the information I provide in my videos you can do this yourself. A good way to get help with this would be to post a question and ask the DrVax video viewers at forum.drvax.com for help.
Travel Acceleration > 2000 mm/s2 and Travel Speed > 150mm/s are most important parameters for me. Last year I have bought a delta style printer that has Bowden and even with 1mm retraction it printed perfectly my favorite test four_square_cons.stl . I have applied this to my other printers and it works and now I have short (1mm) retraction on all of my printers.
Interesting. I will give the acceleration parameter a try.
A problem with acceleration >2000 could be layer shifting. For my y axis 2000 is the absolute maximum and combined with high speed shifting will sometimes occur.
@@MetalheadAndNerd You can use better stepper drivers like tmc2209 or tmc5130, firmware features like junction deviation, s-curve, or switch firmware to Klipper. Sometimes small z-hop helps too. But if you have a big Prusa-style printer then you have to find different solutions.
I have an interesting and strange question. I use recycled material from PET bottles, the extruder wheel crushes the material when it passes through it more than once. This means that I cannot use the retraction option. I print mostly mandala patterns. I carefully observe the path of the nozzle and see that many times it moves chaotically through the whole model and this makes many strings in the empty spaces of the mandala. My question is - is there a way for the nozzle path to pass over the already built shapes and bypass the empty spaces? Yes this will greatly increase the printing time but will make the mandala completely clean. You know mandalas are patterns in which all shapes are connected, so following the shape you can reach any point without going through empty space. If there is still no such option in the software, it would be good to invent such a, can be very useful in some cases. Thank you very much for all your videos, you really research every problem in detail and explain everything very well.
The optimize Wall printing order will mostly affect printing of circles. The printer will print all walls of a circle before moving on to the next circle.
Great information!. All this settings are with fan at 100% speed?
Yes, correct
Did you ever thought doing the ANOVA for those characteristics?
Great learning video from beginning to the end. Too bad the slicers cannot do multiple identical objects to test all the parameters between the objects at the same time, or is it possible? Also, could you also upload your "gcode files" for the temperature towers for the Prusa MK3S? I have a difficult time trying to do this myself. Thank you!
I did not hand code gcode for the tower. Instead I used the script "ChangeAtZ" which you can find in Cura by clicking on Extensions, Post Processing, Modify Gcode. You then select this script from the list.
Hello Doctor. For ABS printing in slicer is needed some special adjustance, and on the printer i must change something,the printer recognise the ABS Filament or it's needed some manual settings?
Thank you for your Work, and i hope you will get full healthy fast. Grüße
Thanks you. My "work" is a joy as I love learning new things and teaching. My most significant problem is a lack of time.
Quite good information. I would like to find some parameters to tune my MK3S using cura. I have very fine stringing between the towers, I don't know if it's even possible to prevent 100% of strining?
Removing ALL stringing is very hard to do depending on the filament type, brand and even color. Very fine stringing can be easily removed with a hair dryer or heat gun. But be careful that you do not melt fine features in your print.
Hello, I just came across your videos, Im using an Ender 3 Pro and is there any basic setup that differs from the printers youre using, because Im just switching over to Cura and there are so many options its abit intimidating trying to just get started with it.
Capricorn tube is also a great way to upgrade the throat on a direct drive style extruder. It is one of the best steps to get ready to print above 245
the combing feature of cura is something I have got on my list to experiment with, in my current version of cura, it has been disabled to comb inside, which seems like it will place retract moves inside already filled areas
Thanks for sharing so useful video. In my ender 3 I have a direct drive E3D V6 clone extruder and when I print at 205c I get a lot of stringing, but if I lower the temperature to 185 I get no stringing whatsoever. The problem with this is I get weaker parts due less layer adhesion. So until now I have to chose strength or visual quality. BTW, I recommend the site 3doptimizer.com to easily tune the profiles in cura, prusaslicer and simplify3d using a wizard where you set some preferences, download the gcode, print the samples and get the best results. It's not perfect but it helped me a lot. There is a free option that can help to the beginners like me. Hope it helps.
you my friend are a god 👏
I really can't find settings like "travel_compensate_overlapping_walls" anywhere in Cura, Can you translate to what the settings search calls them, because they are different?
what is your idea for PrusaSlicer with slicing very small towers
I have a Prusa M3s
Can you go over your travel acceleration
im using PLA on 219c but now ive changed that too 180c too see if I dont get stringing on my prints IL update you after ive done printing
I don't think you mentioned combing which can also affect stringing and print quality. Just for info I discovered Cura turns off retraction when combing so enabling combing can make stringing worse.
new subscriber by the way
how do i get the tower you are using , the retraction tower.
The second I heard the violins, I subscribed.
You say it will not work in other than 4.6 ive got 5.2 Have you updated profiles fo 5.4 please
Hello how do I change the heat test on cura it don't change.
Mike
Do wide nozzles like 0.8mm and 1mm have additional challenges eith stringing compared to the standard 0.4mm?
wow thank you so much sadly my print came off the plate while I went to the store and decided to make itself a nozzle cap instead of my part
The problem I am facing, is I upgraded to bmg using bowden and I can't get rid of strings on my Anet ET5 using marlin.
Slicer: Prusaslicer alpha3
Any suggestion?
Thanks
is this on a direct drive and metal all hot end or just all metal hotend
There is setting called z hop and z hop speed, would that too have an effect on stringing issues?
Yes :)
can you share the link of post procession script
Hello there,
I bought a Creality cr 10s pro v2 printer. I am using Cura 4.11.0. I'm trying to print using the filament that came with the printer. Stringing occurs in all my attempts. I also loaded your settings and tried, the result did not change. I've tried tempfuntower and retractiontower test runs but still string is generated. No matter what I did. Do you know any settings with this printer? I couldn't understand if it was the filament that came with the printer or if there was a hardware problem with the printer. The outputs are fine but there is stringing. I would be glad if you share your ideas. Thanks.
I downloaded the profiles and when I try and import them into cura, they do not show up. any ideas? thanks
Hi,
I see you do not talk about the cooling factor. Is cooling not a problem for create stringing ?
Hey man can you help me please?
I have tried so many different things from tightening my belts on ender 3 to highering temp lowering temp different filaments and for the life of me I can’t stop the print from having circles all over the top of the print.no matter what way I turn the print whichever way is facing up ends up with circles all over it almost like it’s designed to be there.
Can’t find nothing on google atal.
I have 2 ender 3s and the other one isn’t like this thankyou
What are your opinions on CHEPs profiles for Enders?
In general I think they are excellent. I tried the CHEP Ender All Metal profile with my printer and in this situation it was no better than the standard Cura 4.6 profile.
if you did all of these and you still have stringing issues, calibrate your estepsmm and do a pid tune specially if you are printing low temp pla in all metal hotend 😉
Good suggestions. Thanks.
Cura does not have Ender 3 V2 Profiles, I'm using Ender 3 Pro, and seems fine. What is the difference anyway?
How does Linear Advance in Marlin affect stringing?
Excellent question. I have not played with it yet. I will put it on the list for a follow up video.
Any idea why a printer would stop printing in the middle of a print??? print was fine up until it just stopped moving...machine did not shut off,nozzle temp and bed temp stayed same...could not resume of change settings... i had to power off and start a new print...than as like with the other it just stopped again 10 mins into the print.... i have fixed dozens of issues on 3d printers,but this issue is something i don't understand...PS i have printed this file many times with no issues... please help... thanks
Sounds like your control board is defective or overheating. Check the fan that cools the control board. Make sure this fan is not blocked.
PLA material from crealitj red color one solution to reduce the temperature to 185 to 190
I have no idea how to add the elseif statements