New A/C system | 2006 Corolla
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 27 ก.ค. 2024
- Steve removes and replaces all of the major A/C components on this 2006 Toyota Corolla.
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Product link for the AST line lock release tool: amzn.to/3vPy2fc
To see all of the tools that I use and recommend, visit the Tool Demos store: www.amazon.com/shop/tooldemos
As an associate, I earn from purchases.
@usa wicked 1.06 lbs
@@kondon-jt8jt dash does need to come out.
@@kondon-jt8jt I just buy an O-ring kit for that car at the auto parts store. There will be a lot of O-rings that don’t fit but you’ll easily find the ones that do. The kit usually costs less than $10.
@@kondon-jt8jt I would replace the condenser if you are doing a major repair like a compressor, but I don’t consider it to be a maintenance item. As far as oil goes, do your best to drain each component and measure what comes out. Replace whatever you drained. A good rule of thumb is about an ounce for the condenser.
@@kondon-jt8jt I’d look at the clutch first. Either wearing out or bad electrical connection.
Thx for sharing Steve. I noticed you just drained old compressor and added that amount. You should always drain me compressor first to confirm if any oil is in the new one. Never trust the sticker saying if it has oil or not. Always check. Good video. I love doing ac overhauls
Thanks Tony, I did drain the new one, but I did a poor job if explaining it.
@@ToolDemos ok sweet man just making sure.
Great work bro!
Thanks man.
Thank you for a great video.
Glad you liked it 👊🏼
Thanks man i change of valve
Does it have an inline refrigerant filter?
Thanks!!
Not really a project that the average person could do without all of the tools and evacuation/ac equipment. This is more of a demonstration for mechanics with their own shops . It’s all very simple if you have all of the necessary tools at your disposal.
You’re right. I don’t record A/C repairs anymore for that reason.
How the H did you get those hex bolts out on the expansion valve??
I tried with a hex key, but that sucked. I cheated a little. th-cam.com/users/shortscvHSUpMxPHY?feature=share
Did you drain the old freon before changing out parts. Also what should the pressure be on high and low after adding new freon?
No, it had no freon in it. Pressure is going to vary with temperature. If it’s hotter it goes up. A decent average is about 30 psi on the low side and 150 on the high side when it’s operating.
Do you have a video with a major AC replacement? I have some tools needed except the freon recovery machine (that $7000 Robinair Recovery machine makes a statement!) but on my 2004 Corolla last time it ran it was blowing hot air. AC have never been serviced except to add freon when felt little hot; i may have a leak somewhere. I also have been "collecting" all major parts for the AC, got a TYC Evaporator and the little rectangular part that goes in with it, forgot its name. I have not bought a compressor or condenser as I do not know the state of those but got them "on ice" if needed. At the very least a set of oil rings for the lines and compressor will be used. The engine is still out of the bay but coming in soon these few days. I am under the impression it is easier to work on the AC with the engine off the bay? The bumper is also out and so it is the radiator at this point. The system sits there sealed as I do not want to disconnected and leak freon. The major setback for me is the freon recovery machine because of its price! I wish it was an easy way around it, Also, to replace the evaporator I saw that is a really big job where the whole dashboard has to come apart!
Hi Rody, I hope the engine job is going well. I’d say the only A/C component that would be easier to replace with the engine out would be the compressor, but not by much. I’m wondering, why do you want to replace all of the A/C components? You’re right, the evaporator is buried in the dash - not an easy job.
@@ToolDemos I suspect a leak. The air runs very hot last time I checked that was over 3 years ago lest time engine ran. Just yesterday I tried pocking the Hi Port expecting no freon to my surprise it spitted freon on me and there was normal pressure; a local mechanic told me to check the pressures in the valves this way, don't know if he is right or wrong but I know he works in a shop and he is certified. I do have a UV testing kit from Harbor Freight but have not use it, don't know if engine needs to be running, I mentioned before I do have the evaporator and valve new and just before answering here I just got the condenser, Inficon Vortex Dual Recovery machine and O rings kit from Amazon; trust me, i am not looking forward to undo the dashboard at all but if there is a good time it is now while engine is out as the lines in the firewall are very easy to reach, the condenser is dangling at from on its tube and compressor is accessible as well as it is in line in the engine bay. The itch to do the AC is present even thought the tools prices hurts badly; local shops here charge a lot for AC inspection and labor, remember I have a Toyota tacoma lined up for self-service, also full engine overhaul and although its AC runs fine it was a little low on freon as that truck's AC used to feel ice cold in the single cab cabin, so I figure I would have all tools needed if needed to recover freon on that one, one last thing is my brother who is not here but it is coming soon he is certified HVAC tech and he will be thrilled if I gift him the recovery machine; all excuses, LOL, I know but the main thing I want to do the AC is the suspicion of a leak; if a leak is present the AC has to be evacuated if one is to service the lines, am I correct? I could put some sealant on it but a more through repair would be doing the system whole? You would know better of course and if I would have a good reason why the AC ran hot even with freon in the system I would look into that instead of disconnecting the lines; the tools I just bought are returnable after all still. Thanks for all your advises; they are greatly appreciated!
@@fireyourrocketts okay, got it, there’s a lot to unpack.
-A charged system, even if a bit low will still cool.
-Leak sealer in a can will destroy your system and your recovery machine. (My opinion)
-Replacing all of your A/C components might still not fix your problem.
I know you don’t want to hear this but, this job is lining up to frustrate you and waste a lot of your money.
My advice: install your engine - get it running. Pay a mechanic to tell you what’s wrong with the A/C, then consider whether you want to repair it yourself.
I hope you will consider this advice, it is the best I can give you.
I know this video is over 2 years old, but how did you remove the screws from the expansion valve? It appears they are too long and will hit the black plastic box.
I remember it was a tight spot, but once they were loose they probably spun out with my fingers. Can’t recall exactly, but it wasn’t too bad.
Hi my car mark 100 plus and minus 50g nze121 engine I don't know how much gas to put maybe a 12oz
Right, just like an oil dipstick there is an acceptable range for an AC charge. When I fill a system, I go by the maximum number.
Would have been nice to see the bolt removal.
Hi Steve, it's been a while since your video, but I appreciate it. I have a question. You said that the cycling was good and I listened to the cycling. I heard that it was every like 30 seconds, is that ok ?
It was good for the temperature that I was running it in. If it’s hotter outside, it won’t cycle much at all.
Very good video you that txv is not fun lol!!
Thanks CP. That’s the weird thing about auto mechanics. That job is so hateful but when you’re done feel like you accomplished something.
@@ToolDemos absolutely 💯
Great video…you’re a pro…
Thanks, I appreciate that.
I realize this video is over a year old but doesn't the Robinair 34788 only inject oil in the high side?
Before you start, you can set it up either way. I prefer charging on the low side, so I set it up that way. It defaults to high side charging, so each time you gotta change it.
@@ToolDemos Yes, you can do a high or low side charge but in my Robinair 34788 owner's manual I'm pretty sure it says it only injects oil into the high side so if you want to use the oil inject feature you need to do a high side charge.
You’re right. After injecting oil you must charge on the high side. Thanks.
@@ToolDemos I wonder if you choose low side charge initially but then later elect to inject oil if it changes to a high side charge in order to get the oil in? I've always selected high side charge with mine so haven't tried it.
@@johnaclark1 I’m re-thinking my whole strategy right now.
Did the compressor need any gaskets? Replacing my compressor tomorrow
Just the o-rings on the lines
Hi
Y0 ok pr. Buen video 6 5 24