Tools used in this video: Aerosol Flushing Solvent (at the minimum you'll need 2 cans): amzn.to/3CHaazN Professional Style Flushing Canister: amzn.to/3AfnVCD Flushing Solvent for Professional Canister: amzn.to/3dMGpTy PAG 46 Oil w/UV Dye: amzn.to/3AGIIk4 PAG 100 Oil w/UV Dye: amzn.to/3pDHVdp PAG 150 Oil w/UV Dye: amzn.to/3dEstLc R134A Manifold Gauge Set & Vacuum Pump Kit: amzn.to/3AFHmWI R134A & 1234YF Manifold Gauges: amzn.to/3T9LlCb Vacuum Pump: amzn.to/3A8YgM0 Can Tap:amzn.to/3T7is9I R134A Refrigerant: amzn.to/3dDPluj 1234YF Refrigerant: amzn.to/3KiejvO My Amazon Store: www.amazon.com/shop/repairgeek Help support the channel, buy using my Amazon links As an Amazon Associate I earn from qualifying purchases and your cost is exactly the same. Oil type and quantity information: supercool.ac/ -Click Resources -Click Lubricant Specification Guide. -Enter Year, Make, Model.
I would like to add one thing that you didnot mention... When you hookup the refrigerant can to the yellow line, you need to bleed off the yellow hose by loosening the fitting at the manifold guages until the refrigerant comes out, then tighten the line. Not doing so adds outside air back into the system that is not supposed to be there. It basically defeats the reason for vacuuming the system. Outside air isn't coolant and contains moisture and moisture and refrigerant becomes acidic=bad
@@blh3741 my manifold gauge set has what are called "low loss" fittings. The end of the yellow hose has a schrader valve inside like a tire. When I disconnect the yellow line from the vacuum pump, the vacuum is held. The only thing that could have introduced air is the can tap that I transfered from can to can.
Finally, someone with integrity who can actually admit he screwed up, as opposed to blaming it on someone or something else or making up some bullshit story. Then he goes in depth explaining the entire AC system. He explains what and what not to do.
For DIY'ers that might not have much of any a/c experience listen to the info in the video. Spot on and excellent info to guide you in the right direction! Nice work.
Probably one of the best and informative ac videos out there. Very knowledgeable content and it shows how to do things right. I am retired ASE certified Master tech for 35 years. Could not have done this video better myself 10/10. Great job.
I've been on YT since the start, and I've watched thousands and thousands of how-to videos across hundreds of disciplines from myriad creators. I can confidently say your style of content creation is among the most concise and thoughtful on this whole platform. I'm glad I found your channel. Thanks for all you do!!
Two days ago my compressor went out. Tomorrow im on the way to the junkyard. New replacement is $400 so im gonna do it cheap first. This video gives me a lot of the information i needed. Thank you
Great video, one observation :when charging with 1lb. cans, after attaching can tap and opening can tap valve to each 1lbcan it is a good idea to loosen charge hose at gauge manifold slightly to let tiny amount of refrigerant to exit to purge hose of any air that entered during attachment of refrigerant can before opening low side manifold gauge.
This manifold gauge set has a check valve in the end of the hose that connects to the refrigerant. So when I disconnect the yellow line from the vacuum pump it will hold the vacuum.
@@RepairGeek great video. But if there is a check valve in the yellow hose, then how could attaching a can to it push Freon in the other direction? Wouldn’t the check valve stop that?
It's a Schrader valve actually. That's the same valve that is in the stem of a tire. You can fill a tire and let air out of a tire using the same valve. It's the same concept here.
Hello! It's by far the best video on AC. A few questions: why should some of the oil in a compressor with a fixed stroke go into the circuit? Like a variable lift compressor, the fixed lift compressor also has a swash plate. Both need to be lubricated. What should be lubricated in the circuit? The only moving parts in the circuit are the valves on the compressor, which do not require special lubrication, and possibly the expansion valve. The dryer consists of a surface, for example granules, onto which moisture is absorbed. If this surface is contaminated with oil or is even covered with oil, moisture will no longer be absorbed. In my opinion, oil in the circuit is oil from the crankshaft housing which over time gets into the circuit along the pistons
The oil is continuously circulating through the system when it's running. It doesn't stay in the compressor and it doesn't cause any issue with the dryer. The dryer is designed to remove moisture from the oil, because PAG oils are hygroscopic and any moisture in the system will be mostly in the oil.
Awesome video. I only needed to see a segment of it and ended up watching the entire video. Very thorough, probably the best auto repair video I have ever seen. Thanks alot.
Very good video! You touched on many points and I would recommend anyone doing this on their own research..research...research! (I learned the hard way also!) I recently had a compressor replaced on my 2001 Buick and neglected to change the drier, condenser, orifice tube. Mistake!! Changing-out the compressor "ONLY" was a huge NO-NO. The shop that changed it out really didn't inform of the negative aspects of everything involved. Ultimately, I ended-up doing everything (Including a flush) on my own. Also - I was under the impression that compressor hoses (Like yours, with mufflers) were not to be flushed? Interesting. I'm glad your A/C is working! And lastly... Thanks for not falling for all the A/C refrigerant marketing crap! Use only 134-a and don't fall for all those sealers etc. Thanks!
Thank you so much , excellent video , I have the same problem of a dirty contaminated system, my car is a 2005 Ford Freestar Van, I have both expansion valve systems, because there is a thermal valve in the back, that Van has an evaporator in the back for the passengers, I cleared up many doubts with your video and I gained a lot of information, thank you very much again
FYI We recently installed a new AC kit. Had an undetectable leak. No dye anywhere. Held perfect vacuum over night. Held 125 psi of pressure over night. Hook it up to the 175 psi compressor and found a bad hose crimp. Dont overlook the simple things. KISS. Weve always used lacquer thinner for flushing. Cheap, dries out easily blowing air through. Never had a problem. Also its easy to add an inline filter at the expansion valve and condenser. They sell little cone shaped filters that slip into the connection fittings. Couple bucks each, slip right in.
Thank you for this! I'm currently replacing the entire AC system on my S2000 minus the hard lines. It helped to see how you were flushing your lines out and i have that exact aerosol solution you used as well. Replacing my evaporator core, expansion valve, drier, condenser, compressor, and high/low hoses. Only thing i'm keeping are the actual hard lines so I wanted to make sure I got those cleaned out properly.
You’re the man. Thank you so much for all this information! Thankfully my shop is letting me utilize the ac machine for recovery, vacuum and recharge. Side note I also will be doing my water pump at the same time 😅 Keep posting, please!!
I thought that surely after all that work you would measure the charge from the cans using a scale. I've always heard that using Hi/Lo pressures alone is not accurate to determine the correct amount of charge in the system. This video is a great resource to DIYers!
2 extra oz of refrigerant won't have any major side effects long term. The cooling capacity may be diminished very minutely but systems only leak over time. I was going to have more aggravation finding a scale, weighing the can, and trying to get precise over something that isn't going to cause any giant issues. If your system takes 26oz you can't put 36 in it expecting it to work correctly. I am just fortunate with the capacity of my system vs. the capacity of the cans.
If I don't have the black Gunk you're speaking of and the only problems I had was a sticking expansion valve and a bad clutch on the compressor do I need to change the condenser and muffler?
Thanks for very good video! I would recommend to have shutoff valve right next to the vacuum pump in the yellow line. Without that you will have some air with moisture in the system.
All good,good knowledge,but one thing did not show the air purge before cracking the charging valve,may be u did but not shown Ibelieve .thanks for good demonstration.God bless u.
You said an important thing No matter of which gas brand you charge your system as it working properly and no it has no leaks... Golden advice to anyone living in hot. States dude. Thanks a lot for sharing us your experience on this issue. I'm glad i knew recently that cleaning the evaporator also is a waste of money and time just buy a new one instead. Thsnks again from 🇸🇦
Advice… Bleed the air from the charge hose before opening the manifold valve… maybe you did that and didn’t mention it…. or I missed it? Great and very helpful video….
You won't break it. The pressure of the refrigerant when the system is charged and not running is greater than the pressure you'll see with a home air compressor.
Best vodeo ever! Plus I have an 04 Mustang that I'm fairly certain I did the exact same thing! 🤣 It was my sons car and so many things were wrong with it. He decided to get a new car and I decided I could fix it. So I did. 💁🏼♀️ From the start with electrical issues to fuel issues to engine issues to vacuum issues, I fixed. It was insane. I get it running and bam! AC issues. 🥺 In the middle of the Houston summer. I feel like this is a brand new car now and soon will be cold AC! Thank you for this video! ❤️ New sub!
Disfruté su presentación altamente informativa y paso a paso; aclaró muchas de mis dudas sobre los lubricantes. Me ayudará enormemente cuando recargue mi sistema. Desafortunadamente, la humedad no se puede eliminar del polietileno/polipropilenglicol aspirando, incluso durante períodos prolongados, ya que estos polímeros son extremadamente higroscópicos; La única forma es mediante tamices moleculares 3A/5A (idealmente activados a 250 C en alto vacío) o agentes secantes (CaSO4 anhidro, Na2SO4, KOH, etc.). El objetivo de la aspiración prolongada es eliminar la mayor cantidad de aire posible del sistema. Los restos de agua restantes son eliminados por el gel de sílice presente en el acumulador/secador.
I did the very same thing…. I replaced my compressor…. It leaked so I had to buy another one. I use pressure and duct temp to charge the system…I could not understand why it wasn’t cooling nearly as well as it should (I now know The pressure was higher than normal due to excess oil in the system…and not enough refrigerant). I’m very lucky I didn’t hurt my compressor… Lesson well learned….
Idk if you’re still around on this vid since it’s over a year old but I have a question. If the compressor comes pre charged, do it still have to add pag oil to it? And if I don’t, would I just add the entire amount needed to the drier/evaporator?
~@1:20 on the replacing of the compressor: Someone wrote me on Amazon question, that when he put a new compressor he removed all the oil (which was there from the factory) from it, cleaned it w/Mineral Spirits, then added PAG oil. I think it makes sense, since we don't know what oil was added (and how much as a matter of fact), PAG comes in 3 variants: 46, 100, 150, which you can't mix. Now after you wash the Evaporator (really well, since you don't know what oil was there), do you need to add the same amount of new oil to that Evaporator, like you would add to a new one? Or a little bit less? Direction of the flow, is it from High to Low, or in reverse?. Thank you for your film again.
Pulling a vacuum not only removes moisture but removes any other non-condensables that may be in there. You can compress air, you cannot condense it. AC works on the principle of something (like refrigerant) changing state. The latent heat of evaporation and condensation is a wonderful thing.
@@rohitbhatnagar7599 not typically. The oil tends to move around in a vaporus state propelled by refrigerant. Pulling a vacuum occurs at a very slow rate and thus the oil is left behind.
i have a 89 civic. when i first got it, all I did was vacuum the a/c, change the orings and clean out the hard lines. about 1000 miles after charging it up, the a/c compressor failed, specifically the clutch. this time around I've got a brand new drier, expansion valve, and since my compressor & evap are both serpentine type i'm going to flush them. hopefully that makes the a/c last a good long time.
I did exactly ur mistake last week! I put too much of PAG oil and now my ac compressor making noise and the pressure in high and low side both of them not stable i think unfortunately my ac compressor will die soon i hope it's will stand at less for this samar i wish saw ur video before what i did! Anyway thank you so much I appreciate pro now i learn more about car ac system.
The best video I've seen on TH-cam for us diy mechanics working on the ac system. Very informative. You got a new subscriber. All the best from England. 😊👍👍
For years I've had great success just going to car salvage lot. Finding similar looking parts and putting them on without flushing. One man's junk is another man's treasure
Question ❓ 16:35-16:50 timestamp. I have a 2004 mercury marauder. Ive been told to put all the pag oil in the compressor. I noticed you said put half in the compressor and half somewhere else. Am i doing it wrong by putting all the oil in the compressor.
That oil is going to distribute through out the system as the AC runs. I put 1/2 in the compressor and the other 1/2 in the dryer. You can put it all in the compressor but it's going to take longer for the oil to make it back to the compressor when you first start the system up. By splitting it up there is less of a chance of the compressor running dry for a period of time while the oil makes it's way through the system.
@@RepairGeek WOW. thanks bro. That's why doing homework on anything before you start is a absolute must. I appreciate your way of adding the oil. Sounds alot safer and the smarter option. May your content bless you like it blessed me. Thanks for ALL the detailed info in the video. And thank you sincerely for responding.
Great video. Simple & informative. My only question is 'why did you not bleed air out of yellow line before opening valves to charge system? Isn't that counterproductive to pulling vacuum in the 1st place?
My manifold gauge set has a Schrader valve in the line where it attaches to the can/vacuum pump. When I disconnect the vacuum pump the vacuum is held in the line.
I’m going to do this but I’m replacing the condenser and expansion valve. I’m using the can with the compressor. You are correct you cannot flush the condenser as it has very tiny offices that will clog so easily. That’s why I’m changing mine but I’m thinking I should flush with the condenser on because it has a integrated accumulator so it catches all the crap then I will flush the Line set then I will flush with compressed air with a dry filter to reduce moisture. I’m vacuuming for an hour anyway.
You’ll need to add a small amount of oil into your new condenser before you install it since each part of the system will hold a small amount of oil. You’ll have to look around online to find out what amount you’ll need. Or get yourself a Haynes/Chilton manual.
I flushed the system well (including removed Compressor), let it dry for 3-4 days, and started to put everything back. Before I was adding oil into components. I started from the Evaporator, bcs its tubes were opened for flushing and following drying process. And also you need to attach the Expansion Valve, which will close the tubes. So I measured oil PAG 100 2.25 Oz as recommended for the Evaporator in Shop Manual and started to inject it w/small plastic syringe. The Evaporator took 1.25 Oz, but then the oil started to come out, and I couldn't add anymore. Initially I injected the oil into the higher opening, when it couldn't accept anymore I tried to use the smaller bottom hole, but the oil was coming out again. So if I added only 1.25 oz into Evaporator, can I add a bit more into the Drier (by Manual I should add 1 oz)? I think to add 1.25 oz into the Drier, and a bit more then recommended into the Condenser to compensate the difference. Or it is better to add just in hoses? Thank you for your film again. It is very helpful for those who try to master a bit car AC system.
I installed a steel bumper on my 4Runner. After a few off road trails I noticed that the A/C pipe behind the grill was damaged and was leaking refrigerant. After replacing the line, is a system flush required?
After making final connections in reassembly, I think it's a good idea to remove the schrader cores and use dry nitrogen to blow everything out rather than using shop air. Even though the shop air is supposed to be dry there's a good chance it has humidity in it which would leave moisture residue in the system. This will make the vacuuming go faster with more efficient removal of the moisture.
Orifice tube systems don't have a receiver/dryer. They have an accumulator. They are not the same thing. Additionally, you want to burp the blue hose at the manifold end after opening the can in order to purge the atmospheric air out of the hose. Do this by a quick twist of the fitting--all you need is a quarter-second pulse.
how do you put air pressure from standard air compressor into AC line to find leak? do you need a special attachment for the connection from air compressor to low side intake line?
I noticed when you finished the vacuum and disconnected the yellow hose from the vacuum pump to connect the refrigerant that the yellow hose had no way to purge the atmospheric air out of that hose. My gauges have a schrader valve at the gauge body to purge the line. Would it not be beneficial to pay more for the purge valve?
Thank you very much for the helpful video ! , if my ac compressor comes pre filled with oil , should i drain it and add half the amount to that and then the other half evaporator?? I appreciate the advice since my ac just grenaded and i have to replace almost all of it 😢 thanks !
If you put too much oil in the system because i didnt account firbwhats in thesystem when i put on the new compressor...can you just push it out with compressed air and not flush? Second mistake? I have an orifice tube..i put all the oil in the comoressor and non in the drier..can i remove the orifice tube and let it flow past that area to get tot he drier then reinstall the orifice tube? I know..i screwed up😮
Tools used in this video:
Aerosol Flushing Solvent (at the minimum you'll need 2 cans): amzn.to/3CHaazN
Professional Style Flushing Canister: amzn.to/3AfnVCD
Flushing Solvent for Professional Canister: amzn.to/3dMGpTy
PAG 46 Oil w/UV Dye: amzn.to/3AGIIk4
PAG 100 Oil w/UV Dye: amzn.to/3pDHVdp
PAG 150 Oil w/UV Dye: amzn.to/3dEstLc
R134A Manifold Gauge Set & Vacuum Pump Kit: amzn.to/3AFHmWI
R134A & 1234YF Manifold Gauges: amzn.to/3T9LlCb
Vacuum Pump: amzn.to/3A8YgM0
Can Tap:amzn.to/3T7is9I
R134A Refrigerant: amzn.to/3dDPluj
1234YF Refrigerant: amzn.to/3KiejvO
My Amazon Store: www.amazon.com/shop/repairgeek
Help support the channel, buy using my Amazon links
As an Amazon Associate I earn from qualifying purchases and your cost is exactly the same.
Oil type and quantity information: supercool.ac/
-Click Resources
-Click Lubricant Specification Guide.
-Enter Year, Make, Model.
I would like to add one thing that you didnot mention... When you hookup the refrigerant can to the yellow line, you need to bleed off the yellow hose by loosening the fitting at the manifold guages until the refrigerant comes out, then tighten the line. Not doing so adds outside air back into the system that is not supposed to be there. It basically defeats the reason for vacuuming the system. Outside air isn't coolant and contains moisture and moisture and refrigerant becomes acidic=bad
@@blh3741 my manifold gauge set has what are called "low loss" fittings. The end of the yellow hose has a schrader valve inside like a tire. When I disconnect the yellow line from the vacuum pump, the vacuum is held. The only thing that could have introduced air is the can tap that I transfered from can to can.
Finally, someone with integrity who can actually admit he screwed up, as opposed to blaming it on someone or something else or making up some bullshit story. Then he goes in depth explaining the entire AC system. He explains what and what not to do.
I am a DIYer and this removed so much of the mystery around AC systems. And your links are exceptionally thorough. Thanks, and great job!!!
out of all car a/c video yours is the most comprehensive. well done. thank you.
For DIY'ers that might not have much of any a/c experience listen to the info in the video. Spot on and excellent info to guide you in the right direction! Nice work.
Very helpful
Probably one of the best and informative ac videos out there. Very knowledgeable content and it shows how to do things right. I am retired ASE certified Master tech for 35 years. Could not have done this video better myself 10/10. Great job.
You may have made mistakes first time, but the man who never made a mistake never made anything.
Really good video mate 😊
Done Right...
Short and Sweet...
Most informative...
Most Educational...
Great Job on format and presentation.
NO LOUD MUSIC...
Again Great Job....
I've been on YT since the start, and I've watched thousands and thousands of how-to videos across hundreds of disciplines from myriad creators. I can confidently say your style of content creation is among the most concise and thoughtful on this whole platform. I'm glad I found your channel. Thanks for all you do!!
Two days ago my compressor went out. Tomorrow im on the way to the junkyard. New replacement is $400 so im gonna do it cheap first. This video gives me a lot of the information i needed. Thank you
So, how was succesfull your repair?
Great video, one observation :when charging with 1lb. cans, after attaching can tap and opening can tap valve to each 1lbcan it is a good idea to loosen charge hose at gauge manifold slightly to let tiny amount of refrigerant to exit to purge hose of any air that entered during attachment of refrigerant can before opening low side manifold gauge.
This manifold gauge set has a check valve in the end of the hose that connects to the refrigerant. So when I disconnect the yellow line from the vacuum pump it will hold the vacuum.
@@RepairGeek great video. But if there is a check valve in the yellow hose, then how could attaching a can to it push Freon in the other direction? Wouldn’t the check valve stop that?
It's a Schrader valve actually. That's the same valve that is in the stem of a tire. You can fill a tire and let air out of a tire using the same valve. It's the same concept here.
Subscribed!
All hail to you, my dear brother...and we thank you for your diligence and guiding you in the right ways, and you deserve all the appreciation
Your videos is one of the best so far, very informative, now we know one or two things extra which we don't at all, TQ
Hello! It's by far the best video on AC. A few questions: why should some of the oil in a compressor with a fixed stroke go into the circuit? Like a variable lift compressor, the fixed lift compressor also has a swash plate. Both need to be lubricated. What should be lubricated in the circuit? The only moving parts in the circuit are the valves on the compressor, which do not require special lubrication, and possibly the expansion valve.
The dryer consists of a surface, for example granules, onto which moisture is absorbed. If this surface is contaminated with oil or is even covered with oil, moisture will no longer be absorbed. In my opinion, oil in the circuit is oil from the crankshaft housing which over time gets into the circuit along the pistons
The oil is continuously circulating through the system when it's running. It doesn't stay in the compressor and it doesn't cause any issue with the dryer. The dryer is designed to remove moisture from the oil, because PAG oils are hygroscopic and any moisture in the system will be mostly in the oil.
Purge your line from your can to manifold before opening to charge. Good info on freon with leak sealer and added oil will cause nothing but problems.
Hands down best explained video I've ever seen seriously thank you
Awesome video. I only needed to see a segment of it and ended up watching the entire video. Very thorough, probably the best auto repair video I have ever seen. Thanks alot.
Very good video! You touched on many points and I would recommend anyone doing this on their own research..research...research! (I learned the hard way also!)
I recently had a compressor replaced on my 2001 Buick and neglected to change the drier, condenser, orifice tube. Mistake!! Changing-out the compressor "ONLY" was a huge NO-NO.
The shop that changed it out really didn't inform of the negative aspects of everything involved. Ultimately, I ended-up doing everything (Including a flush) on my own.
Also - I was under the impression that compressor hoses (Like yours, with mufflers) were not to be flushed? Interesting. I'm glad your A/C is working!
And lastly... Thanks for not falling for all the A/C refrigerant marketing crap! Use only 134-a and don't fall for all those sealers etc. Thanks!
This is hands down the best tutorial regarding replacing AC components. God bless you for this.
I don’t speak English, but! You’re video helped a lot, it easy to understand. Gracias carnal
Fantastic video.....great attention to detail.....much thanks to the significant amount of your time expended.
Thank you so much , excellent video , I have the same problem of a dirty contaminated system, my car is a 2005 Ford Freestar Van, I have both expansion valve systems, because there is a thermal valve in the back, that Van has an evaporator in the back for the passengers, I cleared up many doubts with your video and I gained a lot of information, thank you very much again
Thank you for the video. You are down to the point, straight without all the BS from other videos.... 💯
FYI
We recently installed a new AC kit. Had an undetectable leak. No dye anywhere. Held perfect vacuum over night. Held 125 psi of pressure over night.
Hook it up to the 175 psi compressor and found a bad hose crimp.
Dont overlook the simple things. KISS.
Weve always used lacquer thinner for flushing. Cheap, dries out easily blowing air through. Never had a problem.
Also its easy to add an inline filter at the expansion valve and condenser. They sell little cone shaped filters that slip into the connection fittings. Couple bucks each, slip right in.
Thank you for this! I'm currently replacing the entire AC system on my S2000 minus the hard lines. It helped to see how you were flushing your lines out and i have that exact aerosol solution you used as well. Replacing my evaporator core, expansion valve, drier, condenser, compressor, and high/low hoses. Only thing i'm keeping are the actual hard lines so I wanted to make sure I got those cleaned out properly.
Is it ok
You’re the man. Thank you so much for all this information! Thankfully my shop is letting me utilize the ac machine for recovery, vacuum and recharge. Side note I also will be doing my water pump at the same time 😅
Keep posting, please!!
Excellent training video, excellent pointers. Thanks!
I thought that surely after all that work you would measure the charge from the cans using a scale. I've always heard that using Hi/Lo pressures alone is not accurate to determine the correct amount of charge in the system. This video is a great resource to DIYers!
The car's refrigerant capacity is 34 oz. 3 cans is 36oz. I just dumped in the 3 cans and ran it. Works great.
@@RepairGeek Nice. It doesn't always work out so neatly... mine is 19oz
2 extra oz of refrigerant won't have any major side effects long term. The cooling capacity may be diminished very minutely but systems only leak over time. I was going to have more aggravation finding a scale, weighing the can, and trying to get precise over something that isn't going to cause any giant issues. If your system takes 26oz you can't put 36 in it expecting it to work correctly. I am just fortunate with the capacity of my system vs. the capacity of the cans.
If I don't have the black Gunk you're speaking of and the only problems I had was a sticking expansion valve and a bad clutch on the compressor do I need to change the condenser and muffler?
@@RepairGeekYep. The gauge set and hoses held 2 to 3 oz. that didn't get into the car.
Extremely HELPFUL video! Thank you!
Thank you for your thorough video. It helped me understand the process clearly.🎉
Your the Man, dude. Great, informative content. You touched on every single point needed to attempt this repair. Thank you👍👍👍
Great video as always. Thanks.
Don’t use shop air to break vacuum. Use nitrogen instead as it’s dry gas. Shop air will introduce water into system
Would a compressor with a drier resolve this?
The Supercool website tip is A#1. Thanks dude!
Thanks for very good video! I would recommend to have shutoff valve right next to the vacuum pump in the yellow line. Without that you will have some air with moisture in the system.
All good,good knowledge,but one thing did not show the air purge before cracking the charging valve,may be u did but not shown Ibelieve .thanks for good demonstration.God bless u.
You said an important thing
No matter of which gas brand you charge your system as it working properly and no it has no leaks...
Golden advice to anyone living in hot. States dude.
Thanks a lot for sharing us your experience on this issue.
I'm glad i knew recently that cleaning the evaporator also is a waste of money and time just buy a new one instead.
Thsnks again from 🇸🇦
Outstanding Presentation, awesome details Thanks 💥
Thanks for making this video.
Excellent tutorial! keep up the good work.
Very well done! Thanks!
Great Instructional Video !! 🤗
Oh yeah A plus for honesty. Says alot about your intregity.
Best vid on air con flushing I’ve seen so far 👍🏻
Excellent content which was very helpful. Thank You
Excellent video/tutorial. Thank you.
You're cool for admitting that screwed up, taking responsibility on yourself
How do you add the oil to the evap when you have an expansion valve?
Extremely informative
Advice… Bleed the air from the charge hose before opening the manifold valve… maybe you did that and didn’t mention it…. or I missed it? Great and very helpful video….
I was watching for him to do it but didn't see a way on his manifold set to bleed the line other than possibly cracking the line open.
excellent video! Thanks a bunch!
Thanks Bud,
Good tutorial.
Love your video! One question .. how much psi for the compress air in the evaporator? I’m scare I’ll brake it lol if the air is to strong.. 😅
You won't break it. The pressure of the refrigerant when the system is charged and not running is greater than the pressure you'll see with a home air compressor.
You made it a very good video and a very good description.
Well done brother!!
Excellent video
Best vodeo ever! Plus I have an 04 Mustang that I'm fairly certain I did the exact same thing! 🤣 It was my sons car and so many things were wrong with it. He decided to get a new car and I decided I could fix it. So I did. 💁🏼♀️ From the start with electrical issues to fuel issues to engine issues to vacuum issues, I fixed. It was insane. I get it running and bam! AC issues. 🥺 In the middle of the Houston summer. I feel like this is a brand new car now and soon will be cold AC! Thank you for this video! ❤️ New sub!
I hate it when I mess up working on my car, when I could have paid someone else to mess up my car.
Preach it
Brother
Disfruté su presentación altamente informativa y paso a paso; aclaró muchas de mis dudas sobre los lubricantes. Me ayudará enormemente cuando recargue mi sistema. Desafortunadamente, la humedad no se puede eliminar del polietileno/polipropilenglicol aspirando, incluso durante períodos prolongados, ya que estos polímeros son extremadamente higroscópicos; La única forma es mediante tamices moleculares 3A/5A (idealmente activados a 250 C en alto vacío) o agentes secantes (CaSO4 anhidro, Na2SO4, KOH, etc.). El objetivo de la aspiración prolongada es eliminar la mayor cantidad de aire posible del sistema. Los restos de agua restantes son eliminados por el gel de sílice presente en el acumulador/secador.
I did the very same thing…. I replaced my compressor…. It leaked so I had to buy another one. I use pressure and duct temp to charge the system…I could not understand why it wasn’t cooling nearly as well as it should (I now know The pressure was higher than normal due to excess oil in the system…and not enough refrigerant). I’m very lucky I didn’t hurt my compressor… Lesson well learned….
outstanding video
Idk if you’re still around on this vid since it’s over a year old but I have a question. If the compressor comes pre charged, do it still have to add pag oil to it? And if I don’t, would I just add the entire amount needed to the drier/evaporator?
~@1:20 on the replacing of the compressor: Someone wrote me on Amazon question, that when he put a new compressor he removed all the oil (which was there from the factory) from it, cleaned it w/Mineral Spirits, then added PAG oil. I think it makes sense, since we don't know what oil was added (and how much as a matter of fact), PAG comes in 3 variants: 46, 100, 150, which you can't mix. Now after you wash the Evaporator (really well, since you don't know what oil was there), do you need to add the same amount of new oil to that Evaporator, like you would add to a new one? Or a little bit less? Direction of the flow, is it from High to Low, or in reverse?. Thank you for your film again.
Pulling a vacuum not only removes moisture but removes any other non-condensables that may be in there. You can compress air, you cannot condense it. AC works on the principle of something (like refrigerant) changing state. The latent heat of evaporation and condensation is a wonderful thing.
Does vacuum the oil out of system also?
@@rohitbhatnagar7599 not typically. The oil tends to move around in a vaporus state propelled by refrigerant. Pulling a vacuum occurs at a very slow rate and thus the oil is left behind.
Thanks so much for this helpful video😊
Remember that God loves you 🙂
Great video. Im AC certified and explanations were spot on . 🎉
Great video, your timing was perfect. I have been trying to figure out what "sprayer" to buy.
Thank you very helpful
Excellent job & video, thanks for share !!!
Very informative
Great video
i have a 89 civic. when i first got it, all I did was vacuum the a/c, change the orings and clean out the hard lines. about 1000 miles after charging it up, the a/c compressor failed, specifically the clutch. this time around I've got a brand new drier, expansion valve, and since my compressor & evap are both serpentine type i'm going to flush them.
hopefully that makes the a/c last a good long time.
I did exactly ur mistake last week! I put too much of PAG oil and now my ac compressor making noise and the pressure in high and low side both of them not stable i think unfortunately my ac compressor will die soon i hope it's will stand at less for this samar i wish saw ur video before what i did! Anyway thank you so much I appreciate pro now i learn more about car ac system.
You would make an excellent instructor at an auto tech school
The best video I've seen on TH-cam for us diy mechanics working on the ac system. Very informative. You got a new subscriber. All the best from England. 😊👍👍
thanks for the very useful info handsome 😉.
For years I've had great success just going to car salvage lot. Finding similar looking parts and putting them on without flushing.
One man's junk is another man's treasure
Awesome video! Thank you for the knowledge share!
great video, thanks for the lesson
Great video I really appreciate it.
excellent guide.
Wow very thorough.Please do alot more auto video repairs on anything.
Question ❓ 16:35-16:50 timestamp. I have a 2004 mercury marauder. Ive been told to put all the pag oil in the compressor. I noticed you said put half in the compressor and half somewhere else. Am i doing it wrong by putting all the oil in the compressor.
That oil is going to distribute through out the system as the AC runs. I put 1/2 in the compressor and the other 1/2 in the dryer. You can put it all in the compressor but it's going to take longer for the oil to make it back to the compressor when you first start the system up.
By splitting it up there is less of a chance of the compressor running dry for a period of time while the oil makes it's way through the system.
@@RepairGeek WOW. thanks bro. That's why doing homework on anything before you start is a absolute must. I appreciate your way of adding the oil. Sounds alot safer and the smarter option. May your content bless you like it blessed me. Thanks for ALL the detailed info in the video. And thank you sincerely for responding.
Great video. Simple & informative.
My only question is 'why did you not bleed air out of yellow line before opening valves to charge system? Isn't that counterproductive to pulling vacuum in the 1st place?
My manifold gauge set has a Schrader valve in the line where it attaches to the can/vacuum pump. When I disconnect the vacuum pump the vacuum is held in the line.
I’m going to do this but I’m replacing the condenser and expansion valve. I’m using the can with the compressor. You are correct you cannot flush the condenser as it has very tiny offices that will clog so easily. That’s why I’m changing mine but I’m thinking I should flush with the condenser on because it has a integrated accumulator so it catches all the crap then I will flush the Line set then I will flush with compressed air with a dry filter to reduce moisture. I’m vacuuming for an hour anyway.
Thanks man! That was very well done.`
I lost all the Freon due to a hole in the condenser. Can I simply bolt on a new condenser, or do I also need to add oil someplace?
You’ll need to add a small amount of oil into your new condenser before you install it since each part of the system will hold a small amount of oil. You’ll have to look around online to find out what amount you’ll need. Or get yourself a Haynes/Chilton manual.
We want to know the price of all flashing solvents and prices of that instrument used drain gas and moisture from air conditioning
I flushed the system well (including removed Compressor), let it dry for 3-4 days, and started to put everything back. Before I was adding oil into components. I started from the Evaporator, bcs its tubes were opened for flushing and following drying process. And also you need to attach the Expansion Valve, which will close the tubes. So I measured oil PAG 100 2.25 Oz as recommended for the Evaporator in Shop Manual and started to inject it w/small plastic syringe. The Evaporator took 1.25 Oz, but then the oil started to come out, and I couldn't add anymore. Initially I injected the oil into the higher opening, when it couldn't accept anymore I tried to use the smaller bottom hole, but the oil was coming out again. So if I added only 1.25 oz into Evaporator, can I add a bit more into the Drier (by Manual I should add 1 oz)? I think to add 1.25 oz into the Drier, and a bit more then recommended into the Condenser to compensate the difference. Or it is better to add just in hoses? Thank you for your film again. It is very helpful for those who try to master a bit car AC system.
Does the vacuum process also remove oil from the compressor? If so, how does one measure the amount removed?
Where is the other half of oil added to if there is an orfice tube for the front system and expansion valve for the rear?
I installed a steel bumper on my 4Runner. After a few off road trails I noticed that the A/C pipe behind the grill was damaged and was leaking refrigerant. After replacing the line, is a system flush required?
After making final connections in reassembly, I think it's a good idea to remove the schrader cores and use dry nitrogen to blow everything out rather than using shop air. Even though the shop air is supposed to be dry there's a good chance it has humidity in it which would leave moisture residue in the system. This will make the vacuuming go faster with more efficient removal of the moisture.
When you put first can of r134a on yellow line. Doesnt that yellow line have air in it that should be bled out?
Orifice tube systems don't have a receiver/dryer. They have an accumulator. They are not the same thing.
Additionally, you want to burp the blue hose at the manifold end after opening the can in order to purge the atmospheric air out of the hose. Do this by a quick twist of the fitting--all you need is a quarter-second pulse.
Gotta reccomend this video to my customers from now on, some people think i get the parts money. 😂
how do you put air pressure from standard air compressor into AC line to find leak? do you need a special attachment for the connection from air compressor to low side intake line?
I have replacec the evpoertor charge the sys with out evacuate thr syd still blow hot air ac running do you thing oil need to be add or change thanks❤
I noticed when you finished the vacuum and disconnected the yellow hose from the vacuum pump to connect the refrigerant that the yellow hose had no way to purge the atmospheric air out of that hose. My gauges have a schrader valve at the gauge body to purge the line. Would it not be beneficial to pay more for the purge valve?
Thank you very much for the helpful video ! , if my ac compressor comes pre filled with oil , should i drain it and add half the amount to that and then the other half evaporator?? I appreciate the advice since my ac just grenaded and i have to replace almost all of it 😢 thanks !
If you put too much oil in the system because i didnt account firbwhats in thesystem when i put on the new compressor...can you just push it out with compressed air and not flush? Second mistake? I have an orifice tube..i put all the oil in the comoressor and non in the drier..can i remove the orifice tube and let it flow past that area to get tot he drier then reinstall the orifice tube? I know..i screwed up😮