Hi Chris, I owned an automotive air conditioning and radiator service shop for about 30 years. We have charged thousands of vehicles. You did a very good job of explaining how to charge an air conditioner. I have always been extra careful to bleed the air out of the hose/s like you showed. I open the shop in 1973 and sold the business to an employee in 2002 and worked for him a short time. The business is still open today.
Hey Patrick, i just had a quick question for you. so my system had all of the R-134a drained out of it, but i am not replacing any a/c parts. should i add a/c oil if im not replacing anything? thanks in advance
I got my first car (scion xa 2005) about 7 years ago and the A/C didn't work along with various other issues. The mechanic wanted about 3k to fix the problem (it did have a small leak somewhere, and they said I needed to replace a bunch of parts to fix it) which was almost what I paid for the car at the time. After doing this it worked until a month ago, so I followed this video again and it's still working! With your videos I've helped myself, friends and coworkers fix suspension, brakes, oil pans, alternators, fluids, door handles/other body parts, scratch repair ect. I basically ask them to pay for whatever tools/parts are needed so they're still saving a bunch and I now have a respectable selection of tools! Between the confidence your videos give me and the ease of repair for my car I've saved untold amounts of money, thank you!
I’m not much for leaving “comments”. Just felt like I should say “Thank you”. I mean it…the video was perfectly detailed and focused. With out this video…I doubt I would have ever had the confidence to do this repair. Now my AC is blowing cold and you can’t beat the smile off my face. Giving knowledge to people for free is very noble and very appreciated.
@@vecyl1311 *I bought my vacuum pump and gauge set on ebay for $110 total with shipping and tax. The harbor freight pump costs $150 for 3 cfm pump and gauges are $60, $210 total beofre taxes so $110 for both is a deal, plus the pump that came with the ebay set is 3.5 cfm instead of 3 cfm so it works faster.*
Back for a refresher to see if I could get my daughter's a/c working again. Wow, another confirmation why ChrisFix is the best on YT! Detailed, great editing, exactly what what is needed to get the job done right!
Was your high pressure connector hard to take off? When you finished? I closed mines like in the video and it still had pressure in the line making it hard to take off.
@@dnegel9546 After you close the valve at the high pressure fitting, OPEN the high pressure valve at the manifold gauges, and that will bleed out any remaining pressure in the high pressure line out the yellow hose.
Hey Mr Fix, I want to say thank you very much for your videos. I am an OTR ( Over The Road ) truck driver and had an A/C compressor fail. It was most like caused because of boss not pulling a vacuum on the system. I have beat my head against the wall trying to explain why this is an important step, even sent him your video to NO PREVAIL. I had bought this equipment and carry it with me at all times due to the fact that I take my dog with me and travel a lot to AZ and CA. I saved over $1,300 by doing this swap myself and followed your video step by step. Now I can hang frozen meat inside my sleeper lol. You are the greatest and love how in depth you are. May God's love and mercy be plentiful for you and your family.
I just fixed my 2009 Honda Fit AC system by watching this video about 100 times and double checking that I was doing everything exactly like Chris did. I ended up having to get a new condenser because there was a hole in mine from a rock. Chris, thanks so much for posting this content. It really helped me a ton and saved me a bunch of money. I truly appreciate you and your work.
@@hardcore4476 yes, the condenser was a pain to remove. One of the bolts rusted shut and I had to get a new hose as well as the condenser. Once I got it in following the steps in the video made it really easy.
Coincidentally, I have an 09 Honda Fit too and just yesterday a chuck of metal fell out of a truck that was in front of me on the highway and made impact with my car. The metal was the size of a deep well socket. About 5 minutes later my AC started blowing hot air. I got home and checked my condenser and sure enough there was a huge dent in the condenser and spray residue of AC oil everywhere. Now I'm waiting for my condenser (only $62) from Rockauto to arrive this week.
This video is still helping people 8 years later. Just replaced the condenser in my 2015 Silverado and this video got me through the vacuum/recharge. Thank you!
I will be replacing the condenser as well. I had a few questions. Assuming the refrigerant leaked out through the hole/leak in the condenser. 1) Once I replace the condenser, what do you do if you still see pressure on the gauges? Did you see any remaining pressure after replacing condenser? 2) Did you still add oil, or just assume the compressor still had oil? Or should you still add oil for the new condenser you put in?
@@chrisfix I will be replacing the condenser as well. I had a few questions. Assuming the refrigerant leaked out through the hole/leak in the condenser. 1) Once I replace the condenser, what do you do if you still see pressure on the gauges? Did you see any remaining pressure after replacing condenser? 2) Did you still add oil, or just assume the compressor still had oil? Or should you still add oil for the new condenser you put in?
@@BizyBeee I think you still have to replace some oil with any part replace. Also supposed to replace things like the filter dryer and the strainers/etc. sometimes even flushing the system is a good idea But yeah I think you'll want to add some oil, I just don't know how much You shouldn't see any pressure when the condenser is removed, and the system should be emptied by someone who has a machine to recover it. Usually they'll do the removal for free or pretty cheap
This guy saved me hundreds of dollars just for a few minutes of his time. Not just with this video but countless others. I went from almost knowing nothing about cars to fixing my neighbors cars. Thank you Chris.
Hey Chris, I live in AZ and I have repaired a number of AC systems for myself and my friends. I use this video as a reference every time. I appreciate what you do.
Arizona eats AC systems for lunch unfortunately, haven’t had AC in any of my any of my trucks since I moved to the Valley 2 years ago. Chris has inspired me to fix them finally 😂
Nice videos Chris! As a (EXTRA) precaution after pulling a vacuum on a car's a/c system and after performing a system leak check for a minimum of the 30 minutes (using a R-134A manifold gauge set ONLY) and BEFORE disconnecting the manifold gauge line set: CLOSE the HIGH & LOW valve at each port, then wait another 15-30 minutes to verify that the High & Low side a/c port needle valves (a.k.a.- Schrader valves) are not leaking. Nothing's more irritating than having a charged a/c system leak at the High or Low side port, immediately after disconnecting the high & Low side line set!
I thought this through, and I think there is a slight issue... So, let's say that the Schrader valve is leaking... Well, if it leaks into a manifold gauge that is completely sealed, then there is no leak at all (no delta)... Instead, I think one would have to close off the valves, bleed the gauges, then watch to see if they go from zero to some value while the Schrader valves are not depressed... Let me know if that is flawed thinking or not... Just realizing that a Schrader valve turned backwards is a blow off valve dependent on spring strength...
Dude this is one of the best how to videos I've ever seen on any subject. Well done! If I'm just disconnecting the condenser for a short time to do an engine swap i assume i wouldn't' have to add any oil, correct? Also if I tape off the open lines would I need to replace dryer and orifice tube?
Excellent & helpful comment Jim Lechner! I know I have a leaky valve, but I had no idea which one, or how to figure how to which. The suggested offered below by The Truth Serum is also very helpful. What a fantastic channel this is @ChrisFix. What an impressive and well deserved subscriber list you have now!
You got the AC going my Peterbilt. Mechanic wanted 1500. I bought my compressor, air dryer, vacuum pump, freon and manifold gauges in total for 450. Thank you!
Every time I have to do this (infrequently, so I can't ever remember for sure), I try going through like 5 other videos, before coming back to this one. By far the most clear, concise with all the right info and no unneeded time-wasting bits, and touching all the super important but less commonly mentioned points. You rock
about to tackle an A/C Compressor, Condenser, and Expansion valve on my 09 Civic Si. This will be the 4th ac system i have worked on and charged. Always come back to this video a couple times to make sure i do the steps properly. All 4 times have been a success and i have save THOUSANDS of dollars doing it myself. Thank you CHRIS!!!!
i followed this video step by step, and it couldn’t have gone any better. i live in vegas and haven’t had AC all summer, but i turned on my AC today and have been smiling all day thanks to this video. this is really easy to do, as long as you have found out where your leak is, and are able to fix it. thank you!
LethalWithFlight oreilly or autozone rents both the pump and the manifold gauges, you just have to deposit like $350 but they give you all that back when you return it! that’s exactly what i did
For those of us at high altitude, the maximum vacuum your vacuum pump can pull will be less than 30" Hg. In my part of Utah, for example, it's about 26" Hg. Thanks for an excellent video-- all the needed information, but no fluff.
That's okay. The concern is that you get the absolute pressure in the system as low as possible. The gage pressure, which is measured at your location, is not important.
This is the best video on vacuum down and re-filling your A/C system with refrigerant on the internet! I've watched it 3 times and then did it on my 2004 F150 that was cycling the compressor constantly and barely cooling. Found it had low AC pressure, 50 on high side and almost nothing on low side as the compressor would only run for about 5 seconds at a time and kick out. Found it had a leak on the high side shrader valve using soap and water trick. Evac'ed the system, replaced shrader valve, vacuumed down the system for the 45-60 min, refilled with correct amount of refrigerant and the system is working great, blowing 40 degree F air again! Thanks!
I recommend replacing the Schrader valves at the high and low pressure ports. Those valves are prone to leaking o-rings after a while, and especially after a service, therefore it’s cheap insurance to just replace them. As one can see, bright green dye is visible in the ports on Chris’s high pressure port. That visible dye is indicative of a leaking schrader valve. The dye is added to refrigerant to help identify leaks on an automotive AC system.
This is the best, I have changed 2 of these now, and the crazy thing is I just bought a car with a bad compressor and got excited because I could identify the problem and cause, then used that to knock almost an extra 1000 off the price. Chris Fix has literally saved me thousands of dollars with how to vids and giving me the confidence to learn how to do this stuff on my own.
@@chrisfixmy high pressure side connection was hard to take off. In the video you closed it and pulled it off no problem. For me i closed it and it was to tight to pull the quick disconnect. It still had refrigerant in the line. I ended up having to open the high pressure side on the valve (where the gauges are) and it came out the yellow hose. I could not get the quick disconnect to release otherwise. Did i do something wrong? 😢 The low pressure side came off exactly like in your video.
I really like seeing videos where a DIY project is explained and performed properly. A vehicle's AC system is nothing to screw around with, but as demonstrated in this video, absolutely something that most people could do with a little mechanical ability, and a lot of attention paid to the details. Excellent video here! Thank you for showing this!
@@joseaponte8729 Just for other's benefit since I just did this and it's fresh on my mind: The high pressure (red) line has a valve at the gauge set. The low pressure (blue) line has a valve at the gauge set. If you open either one of these valves it opens a directly path to the yellow line immediately! You never open the valves on the gauges until you are doing a vacuum or filling refrigerant into the system! The ONLY valves you need to open to observe the pressures in the system are the valves on the AC line ends of your blue and red hoses.
Chris, I just got our cars a/c compressor replaced and charged with correct refrigerant amount 2 weeks ago with your video. The way you explained was awesome! Thank you!!
@@chrisfix Hello friend Im hoping you can help me 🙏🙏 I watched you video and followed precisly your methods but when I jumped the clutch and tried to get the refrigerant in it would not take in the refrigerant 😪 I worked one it allay even re vacuumed the system and redid the entire proceed but it would not suck in the refrigerant.. what am i not doing rite?? any help or guidance is very much appreciated 🙏🙏
+FrozenHaxor Yea, the only problem is now none of 20,000 people who watched the first version will watch the second version (or at least watch it fully) and they wont thumbs up so it wont make it into TH-cam's algorithm so it wont become popular for people to watch and see. Sucks but I want it to be 100% !
+ChrisFix Now I feel bad now for commenting on that line purge on the previous video :P By the way, how about a video on replacing the compressor pulley bearing? As far as I know, nobody has done a proper video about it and now you have an old compressor that you could show this on.
Just changed the a/c compressor on my daughter's 2012 Mini clubman. The steps in this video were incredibly helpful for me. Her a/c is blowing snow flakes now!!! Thanks Chris. Outstanding video!!
An additional tip for car AC service: If your manifold gauge set isn't new (mine is inherited), check the condition of the rubber refrigerant hose seals. They can be replaced and should be replaced if they are old, compressed, hard, or otherwise deteriorated -- either that, or purchase a new hose set. Also, when storing the manifold gauge set, loosen the fittings a bit so the seals don't get compressed. Tighten them when you are ready to use them. Mine were so old, when I tried to remove the seals, they came out in hard, crumbly pieces.
I am SUPER happy that you really go in-depth and step by step. I am no car guy, but watching your videos have finally gave me the courage to buy some tools, a jack/ramps and stands. I can now level up and do an oil change on my girlfriends car instead of paying someone else. Please continue and thank you for being my teacher :)
Thank you Chris. Your video walked me right through the steps to recharge my system after a compressor and condenser change out. System putting out 46.3 degree air at 86 degrees ambient. Well done sir.
I've watched several videos about this and yours is without a doubt the best and most concise I've seen. It's been a few years since I recharged a system. Your video was exactly what I needed. Thanks. Great video.
I don't know some people dislike this video? The guy and his video is one of the most detailed on you tube about DIY a/c refill. Good job man and ignore the idiots who dislikes your info.
dan deac - it’s the a/c professional who spent big bucks on schools and AC certification who are complain. Medically speaking, a physician is the only person actually qualified to put on a band-aid.
Excellent video Chris. One final step I usually do is to get a little bit of water with some dish soap in it and put that in the needle valves connections. If there's any bubbles present you know the Schrader valves are leaking. I like to put just a small amount of refrigerant in first before I do this test so I don't waste refrigerant.
Thank you Chris! My AC went out recently and I was able to do it my self and save some Money. It started get warm in my area recently, so I feel relieved now.
A repair shop near me was trying to charge me $250 just to install a new compressor (sold separately) and fill up the refrigerant. So pretty much $150 for the labor and $100 for the refrigerant lol. I'm really motivated now to DIY after this detailed vid.
Thanks Chris, your walkthrough actually help me fix the AC on my suburban after I replace the compressor from a junkyard. Saved me a few hundred bucks from calling an AC tech for doing something relatively simple, so thanks man!
@@kneebarx Because this service requires tools and some basic training. The same reason people pay for A/C recharge service is the same they do for oil change or brake jobs. Convenience. Of not having to buy tools, learn something new, and potentially harm yourself or your car trying to fix it. I’m a total DIY everything in my life kinda guy. I also understand why some of my friends and family will pony up their hard earned cash to get a service done.
@@kneebarx oh for sure, it always helps to have the right tools and knowledge! I actually picked up the same gauges from this video during harbor freight’s Memorial Day sale for $35. I’ll be purging and refilling my A/C system for the first time using this video. The local Honda dealer wanted $260. No. Thank. You. Praise the internet, platforms, and search engines for allowing us this information! 🙏🏼 stay blessed.
After watching 20 plus videos I felt the need to write a comment. Thank you for all you do, you literally are the definition of TH-cam university towards Automotive I feel like taking a car apart just for giggles now lol
If I alright have a bit of refrigerant but it's low to where it pretty much only runs after the car has been sitting for hours (high and low psi are the same at around 35 psi with weather at about 90° and well above 50% humidity) do I have to pull a vacuum? Or is that only for when the system is empty or components are replaced or compressor is bad or something? I know I have a slow leak but I wanna recharge it with dye added to find it. Blows cold but only for like an hour then blows warm. Maybe not enough pressure after a while Thanks
@@dadirtydawg7789 Even with having pressure in the system? I was told by a few people a vacuum is not necessary in that case. Was just trying to confirm
Thank you for making this video. I charged my AC system for the first time myself using the steps in this video. Saved me from paying the dealer $300 to charge the system. It was so great and had many steps.
great video. just keep in mind high side hose is pressurized when taking the hoses off the manifold gauge. can cause some damage if removed carelessly.
Hey man been wanting to reach out to you. I’ve been watching your videos since maybe 2012. Learned a lot and because of your detailed videos I’ve come a long way! Started as an amateur mechanic with no college degree and I am now a 3 year diesel technician and loving learning more and more each day!! You deserve every like, follow and subscription that you’ve gained over the years. Thank you! Kick ace teacher.
Thank you so much Chris I bought an 01 mustang gt 5 speed and I've done just about everyone of your tutorials on her to get her right now she's running pitch perfect!!
@@MercuryRisingFast Mine had a problem. It ended up being a rotten vacuum hose and a non working vacuum check valve. I imagine parts of the disentigrating hose are in the check part. Now, i put some hooks in the ceiling and hang meat in it at night because it is so cold. But, it is nice because I like to take my little dog everywhere. I can leave it running with the AC blowing, and she is fine. Im in a rough rural environment here. I was twenty miles away at a chicken farm replacing a compressor last night on an International truck. But, shes my pal, checks out the area while I am working.
Top 10 most useful videos I've ever watched in my life, I build engines and rebuild cars all the time... Hvac stuff I usually shy away from until this video simplified it so much. Awesome work.
Yo Chris thank you so much! Just replaced my A/c compressor for just the cost of the parts and I rented the vacuum pump and manifold gauges from Oreily’s. I couldn’t have done it without your videos. You are awesome my man 👍🏽😁
Thank you so much for this video. I had to replace my heater core in my Ram 2500 before winter so wasn't to worried about AC but now the temps were in the 90's and had to get this done. Your video made it very easy to recharge my system and the air went from 101 degrees down to 50. Everybody riding in my truck will now enjoy the AC especially my kids who had to endure a 2 and half hour trip with temps in the mid 90's. I was able to rent the equipment at the parts store get it filled up and return the equipment all in about 2 1/2 hours. Again Thanks!
@@hardcore4476 I have rented them from O'Reilly's before and now bought the manifold and vacuum from Harbor Frieght. I have done this several times now so this video is super helpful!
@@hardcore4476 I rigged an old AC filler to open while connected that has a trigger I could depress and used the universal tank recovery unit 😜. I had no oil loss. Only time I had any loss was actually messing with the compressor and having the lines disconnected for other engine related work.
@@superbon777 Right on.. All is good I fixed it and have ice cold air now! I had to use cheap orange vacuum pump from harbor fart because I couldn’t find an adapter for my vacuum pump anywhere that hooked up to manifold Ac gauges.
Great video. Just replaced my evaporator today and will be charging system tomorrow. I’ve never done AC work but feel confident I can do it now that I’ve watched your video.
You have to be the first guy I've seen on TH-cam to actually do this job right, great demo, very informative and easy to follow. although just one tip, if changing to a brand new compressor and you need to add to oil, it's far better to tip the oil straight into the compressor rather than through your gauge lines, and then rotate the clutch on the compressor. That way when you first start the compressor it's properly lubricated and doesn't suffer any potential damage. But without a doubt a great tutorial
ChrisFix hey Chris quick question ??? So my Dodge Ram is blowing warm air. The compressor and clutch are spinning ,everything Is working fine except it’s blowing warm air . Can I just check the Freon level and add necessary amount or do I have to vaccum out everything before adding Freon???? Thank you
Tim Toolman so the compressor is definitely starting? If it is you should connect your gauges to the system and see what pressures you get, if you have exceedingly high pressure on the high side it may indicate that the orrifice tube/expansion valve is blocked or failed. Also while testing set to max fan speed and max cooling
Mathew Barnes hey Matthew so I hooked up the gauges which ac full blast and my reading was 60 psi on low side and about 45 psi on high side . Can you tell me what this could be ?
I like how you never do anything half way and strive to make every video perfect. I appreciate this and I'm glad you added that new part worth purging the yellow line even though it was not a big deal leaving it out.
Hey Chris Fix! I have a 2005 camry. The only time I get very cold air is when I push the recycle button and ona very hot day I have to crank the fan up for the car to stay cold. I have added freon but it still goin the same way after a couple days. Does this mean compressor going bad?PLEASE HELP anyone! somebody!
@@Grenplen One of the hardest things your a/c has to cope with is removing the humidity from the air inside your vehicle. When you're not on recycle, you're pulling in warm humid air from outside instead of the air inside that has already cycled through your evaporator and had some of its moisture removed.
Fan needs to be on High and recirculate. Put temp guage in center vent. Put both cans in because of bleeding off both cans and removing both lines...plus whats left in the manifold guage lines...probably more than 2 ounces. The manifold guages and vent temp guage will let you know if system needs more/less refridgerant or is having a problem. The weight listed is more of a guide. Charge the first can upside down...second can upside down for half a can then leave upright for finish charging. The refrigerent will turn to a gas immediately when it reaches atmosphere/vacuum. Its only liquid under HIGH pressure.
Thank you so much for this video. I'm handicapped and poor, having problems paying the workshops to repair it 2 times without success. Now I looked into it and found a hole on the low pressure side, repaired it with a garden hose fitting 😂. And ordered the pump and coolant. Sometimes it's best to take matters into your own hands, it is cheaper too. Working like a charm. Thank you 🙏🏼
Dude you are the man I have been working on cars for my repairs and was always afraid to tackle the A/C system. But this video is a great guide and you helped me. I replaced my A/C compressor and Drier and Receiver. With no issues. Works great I live in Florida and the air blows at 23 degrees at 89 degrees outside. Thanks Man I owe you.
Hey Go nzo, how can I contact you privately. I have couple questions regarding A/C system. I plan to change out my compressor but when you do a evacuation on the system, wouldnt this suck up the oil too?
This might be HELPFUL to somebody. I turned on my vacuum pump in order to get the LOW pressure line on my 99 ' Buick Regal other wise i couldn't get it to go on and lock ! Thanks Chrisfix great video , i got my AC going just in time for the summer !
Great job as always! One minor point is that at 90F, according to AC standard chart, it requires 45 minimum on low and 250 minimum on high. You only got 40 and 200 PSI instead.
Oh. I just found the source for your data. NO. Those are general pressure guidelines. OEM specs are EXACT. Cooling to near 40 degrees is the proof. If superheat isn't being calculated, those pressures could cause a lot of trouble.
@@OxBlitzkriegxO You can't get an accurate weight. You have the weight of the green can piercing tool AND the yellow charge hose, sitting on the scale. Unless you remove the can from the tap and weight it. If you do that you loose gas/liquid so your weight is OFF. Very hard to get this proper by weight. What hurts us is these small 10oz cans. Our systems need more than one can. Changing cans and such you loose gas/liquid.
I went to school yrs ago for HVAC, I never persued it as a career but it came in handy knowing a little bit in the Maintenance field. With that aside, I was taught to always charge gas to the low side to prevent blowing the compressor. I stuck to that religiously for years,,, and, well, I haven't killed any yet ! Lol,, TY Bro, I really dig this channel, you do a great job ! 😎✌️
If you have a vacuum, just add the freon from the high side and the vacuum will pull the freon in. Most of the times I can get it all in with out ever cranking the vehicle. This prevents pushing the oil out of the compressor through the low side before the compressor starts pumping. I do this every day on a larger scale with Greyhound size tour buses. Some of them hold 45 lbs of freon and with a good vacuum I can get a whole 30 lb. can feon in from vacuum alone without ever starting the bus up.
Hi moparnutjim. I lost the charge and refrigerant by opening the low side port to atmosphere. Would there be any refrigerant left in the high side and if I pull a vacuum do I need to add any oil at this point?
Gary Bolinky. Yes you can, but it's likely to take air in simultaneously. So after sucking the oil in, start again on vacuum process, attach just to the low side otherwise much of your new oil heads for the vac pump.
Chris excellent video I've always been timid about doing my own AC however my son's Subaru blew an O Ring draining the system after fixing that, we bought the Harbor Freight setup like yours and followed your video to the T it worked perfectly and even after buying the equipment we still ended up cheaper than having it done in a shop... Thanks for putting these videos out for those of us car guys who have never done or uncertain about doing certain things on their cars.
My 1997 gmc finally blows cold for the first time in 4 years of ownership! I ended up replacing all components but used your vids a lot as support! Thank you so much
Hey chris im a auto tech from Tx. Just wanted to mention the new ac cans have a saftey valve inserted and the Schrader valve itself wont pierce the can all the way down and wont release the r134a. Auto parts sells a 5$ adapter that goes under the valve.. Just thought id share with other DIY community.
@@PWgadgets yes he does all the new cans are self sealing the have a schrader valve in the top of the can. this video is slightly incorrect as the can adapter needs to be screwed down in order to open the can. the pierce style fill adapters no longer work with the new cans
This is a great and useful video but it starts from systems that are empty from having leaks or repairs. It would be nice to see this explained on systems that are just getting checked for low levels and how to add what is needed. To evacuate the system you would need a container to put the freon in, and weigh it, then fill by weight. But still, a good video. RIP Chris Fix, you were a gift to mankind.
Thanks again, Chris for the video! One very important note since this video is about 8 years old, most of the newer cans of R134a our self sealing due to regulation. What this means is, you’ll need an additional adapter. Its usually blue and cost $10 for the new style cans. Without this additional adapter, none of the refrigerant will come out when you try and pierce it.
I like Chris and his videos. I can't find fault in them. Are there an AC masters watching this that can explain why over 3000 people thumbed it down? I can't find any problem with the video. I know there are always "haters" but.. seriously? 3000+?
It was probably people who live in California and Colorado who don't want those of us who live in States like Louisiana where it gets hot and humid as hell.😅
@@truthhurts2149 No that was already done had replace the condenser underneath the dash with some leaks and get a new compressor, but I did it… Harbor freight.
Great advice for U.S. guys. Unfortunately in Aus, we need to be licensed under Ozone and Greenhouse gas regulations to even purchase this gas. Is probably why we repairers can sometimes get a bad rap for being expensive with our repairs. Cheers from Aus. P.S. A tip for replacing a compressor is to do an oil balance as per the warranty sheet with the new compressor, this will compensate for oil already in the system and will stop oil slugging the new compressor from too much oil in the system. Always replace the Filter dryer to remove any old oil/metal particles and moisture trapped in it.
@@MrMarkguth Sometimes I find simple leaks like access caps missing and put that down to a leak, but yeah they make it hard for licenced repairers, if they do top ups. I depends on the customer and how much they want to pay.
Great video. Well edited and well spoken, only the info needed. I had a cracked condenser and I was confident I could change that but the vacuuming with the crazy looking hoses and gauges had me intimidated. This video gave me the confidence to do it. Thanks.
If your gauge set doesn't have a Freon bleed, just loosen the connection at the gauge set. I've never seen refrigerant/oil data on any of my cars. Good on Toyota! My latest AC repair required my official GM factory manuals to give me that information. I wonder why the valves on the port connectors are backwards in terms of closing an opening standards. Great video. I really appreciate the fast, accurate conversation w/o wandering, mumbling, trying again. It was a good refresher for me as I recharge a system tomorrow.
Losing points with TH-cam over your sense of integrity makes me like and trust you even more (and I thought that was impossible)! :>) Thanks Chris. You are truly one of good guys.
His statement actually. I think taking down the first, most watched over the second, which he didn't think would be watched by as many people would count against his total watched count...bit I'm only guessing.
+A LeBlanc Thanks bud! I truely want the best content I can produce and the best tips I can give so when I realized I left out the purging tip (even though it isnt really necessary) I wanted to go back and include it. I wish I would have realized it before because this video will not become popular since most people wont watch it again and if they do, they wont watch the whole thing which is super important for the youtube algorithm.
+Tommy Rad I reuploaded the video when I realized I left out the purging tip (even though it isnt really necessary). This was after almost 30k people saw the video so I wont be getting those views on this video which means this video wont get popular.
Chris, you probably are already well aware of how many people you’ve helped. Again, another great video. Thank yo so much for your clear, precise demonstration and explanation!
My third go around using this as my instruction manual. I’m betting we’re gonna go 3/3. Excellent video tutorial! I’m more than comfortable underneath the hood of a vehicle but you explained this well enough I think most people would feel confident following your easy to follow instructions! I’m impressed with the breakdown and quality of your explanations .
Great tutorial! Thanks for posting this! I’m replacing a condenser on a Mitsubishi Mirage and now feel confident in doing the job correctly. My only question is how much oil to add.
I replaced all major parta in my gfs nissan and founf the expansion valve leaked. I watched so many videos through this whole process. I used the uv dye founf it was the expansion valve checked all the o rings and it leaked again. I spent money on gauges and a pump and no other video told me that if i close off the lines to hold a vaccum if it went back to zero the system was not air tight. I made some adjustments and now im holding a vaccum and ready to add the refrigerant! Thanks chrisfix you da man!!
I just want to say thanks for posting this video, with a liitle common sense troubleshooting and your video I was able to fix my AC in my conversion van. Thanks Again!!!!
That reminds me, I need to put my 01 civic together. The cam position sensor was going out, I wasnt driving it. They told me, but it was fine when i tried it. But, it did it on me once. Made the exhaust manifold get red hot, and it was bright red. Made the head gasket leak. I took head off. In retrospect, I had a couple of loose head bolts, should have just tightened and kept going. Bolts just got hot and loosened. Barely a leak. I could go 22 miles before it would get hot.
You are my hero. You + borrowed tools + WOMEN CAN FIX THEIR OWN CARS saved me $500 on this job alone. You've helped me on other jobs too. ❤❤❤ Thank you.
Checking with vacuum won't always expose leaks. Pressurizing with nitrogen will. Edit: most compressors require the filter/dryer to be replaced as well to honour the compressor warranty.
The AC guy said I need a new compressor- parts and labor 1000$ ... I open this video, replace the compressor valve and recharge AC like in video now my AC 45 F it's crazy. only 20$ valve not a 1000$ . Thanks man for the detailed video !
Just to let you know, Chris< thank you again for all your excellent knowledge, I was able to replace and repair my AC compressor the right way, and now my STI is nice and cool. Not only has this video helped me, but most of your videos have. Thank you for all your hard work and content. One of the best channels. !
Main error I notice, at 8:05 attempting to add oil / dye? After vac and before adding gas? No. You'll never tip it down the hose in sufficient quantity OR without air getting in the yellow hose. The answer is 2 vacs. An initial vac assists in adding oil etc (if needed). Use vac to "suck" the oil up the hose. Then re-vac to 500 micron ensures no air in the system. Then add the gas. Better still add oil straight into compressor while it's on the ground. You can't do what he showed above without compromising the vac.
Great video. Unfortunately the cheap manifold gauges that I bought had a refrigerant adapter that leaked badly out of the can tap. I simply evacuated the system again, then manually added refrigerant using a re-usable recharge kit hose, and continued to weight the cannisters every few minutes to ensure I only charged with 22 ounces. Kia Sorento's AC is ice cold and ready for a 30 hour road trip next month!
I just did this on my 2002 Ram using this video. Never have done this before. I bought the Vacuum Pump and Gauges today and now have ice cold A/C. Thank you for the Video
NEVER turn the can upside down when connected to the low side!!! If you do liquid refrigerant coming out of the can can hydrolock the compressor and destroy it.
@@puppetmasterblaster Yeh ok that's why I saw it happen right in front of me by someone who thought like you. The funny thing is I argued time and time again with this so called tech about it. I guess he learned his lesson the hard way. Just please don't work on anyone else's car but your own. Also if you bothered reading the text books IF you have your AC certs it states my comment exactly in the book. I've been doing this for 30 years including AC systems on aircraft but you know best.
@@richardp6178 When charging it right side up. Will the liquid refrigerant eventually turn to vapor as your charging the system? In other words will I be able to use a full can without pouring straight liquid refrigerant?
@Edgar acosta when you charge with the can upright the pump will draw the gas on top of the liquid in the can and compress that gas into a liquid. On cold days you can help this process along by heating the bottle with a hot air gun. If you turn the can upside down it will draw the liquid into the pump. Pumps can't compress liquid only gas so it will hydro lock the pump.
Pretty much unless you go to a mechanic school... most people like myself who are pretty good with cars learn by watching videos, reading books, asking veteran mechanics questions, and researching online.. and as the years add up and working on friends or families cars, your own, or apprenticing in a shop... you get pretty good... good luck with the new job.. peace
@@fearvenom1525 Never ever charge upside down for car ACs, it might be quicker but liquid should never go inside a compressor, break those reed valves and bye bye compressor. Only time you should ever charge an AC with the can upside down is if the refrigerant is a blend such as R-410a, r-421a ect but these only exist as building AC refrigerants. R-134a is not a blend there for it does not need to be upside down.
Get a 20% off coupon for HF they have every week or use the Honey App to get it in your cart . Save your money on the pump go to Autozone and give them $150 deposit to use theirs. Get the $150 back when you return the pump.
So I did the exact steps, and when I went to purge the yellow hose, oil came out instead of the air. I'm not sure what to do next. [Update: 06/12/24] I'm pretty sure the vacuum was cheap and somehow sucked out oil onto the manifold gauge. I tried to purge it and a small amount came out. I had no other choice, but to move forward and put in the refrigerant. I checked the measurements and drove it yesterday and it's cooling me down. So far so good. Thanks, Chris for creating this free and really informative content! 👍
Hi Chris, I owned an automotive air conditioning and radiator service shop for about 30 years. We have charged thousands of vehicles. You did a very good job of explaining how to charge an air conditioner. I have always been extra careful to bleed the air out of the hose/s like you showed. I open the shop in 1973 and sold the business to an employee in 2002 and worked for him a short time. The business is still open today.
Thanks Patrick!
Hey Patrick, i just had a quick question for you. so my system had all of the R-134a drained out of it, but i am not replacing any a/c parts. should i add a/c oil if im not replacing anything? thanks in advance
@@frankambrose4764 im a mechanic- as long as you didnt replace any ac parts you shouldnt need to add oil to the system
So then can I ask you why they charge $200 if it is so simple
@@kneebarx trust me it isnt simple
I got my first car (scion xa 2005) about 7 years ago and the A/C didn't work along with various other issues. The mechanic wanted about 3k to fix the problem (it did have a small leak somewhere, and they said I needed to replace a bunch of parts to fix it) which was almost what I paid for the car at the time. After doing this it worked until a month ago, so I followed this video again and it's still working! With your videos I've helped myself, friends and coworkers fix suspension, brakes, oil pans, alternators, fluids, door handles/other body parts, scratch repair ect. I basically ask them to pay for whatever tools/parts are needed so they're still saving a bunch and I now have a respectable selection of tools! Between the confidence your videos give me and the ease of repair for my car I've saved untold amounts of money, thank you!
I’m not much for leaving “comments”. Just felt like I should say “Thank you”. I mean it…the video was perfectly detailed and focused. With out this video…I doubt I would have ever had the confidence to do this repair. Now my AC is blowing cold and you can’t beat the smile off my face. Giving knowledge to people for free is very noble and very appreciated.
Hey quick question Kevin, did you use the tools he listed below or did you just grab the same tool but different brand?
@@vecyl1311 *I bought my vacuum pump and gauge set on ebay for $110 total with shipping and tax. The harbor freight pump costs $150 for 3 cfm pump and gauges are $60, $210 total beofre taxes so $110 for both is a deal, plus the pump that came with the ebay set is 3.5 cfm instead of 3 cfm so it works faster.*
Amen!
But meanwhile you have the scammer mechanics reading and seeing this video with foam on their mouth while twitching
this is a good post.
Chris, Thank u for your research and putting information in simpler language.
Back for a refresher to see if I could get my daughter's a/c working again. Wow, another confirmation why ChrisFix is the best on YT! Detailed, great editing, exactly what what is needed to get the job done right!
Was your high pressure connector hard to take off? When you finished? I closed mines like in the video and it still had pressure in the line making it hard to take off.
@@dnegel9546 After you close the valve at the high pressure fitting, OPEN the high pressure valve at the manifold gauges, and that will bleed out any remaining pressure in the high pressure line out the yellow hose.
Hey Mr Fix, I want to say thank you very much for your videos. I am an OTR ( Over The Road ) truck driver and had an A/C compressor fail. It was most like caused because of boss not pulling a vacuum on the system. I have beat my head against the wall trying to explain why this is an important step, even sent him your video to NO PREVAIL. I had bought this equipment and carry it with me at all times due to the fact that I take my dog with me and travel a lot to AZ and CA. I saved over $1,300 by doing this swap myself and followed your video step by step. Now I can hang frozen meat inside my sleeper lol. You are the greatest and love how in depth you are. May God's love and mercy be plentiful for you and your family.
I just fixed my 2009 Honda Fit AC system by watching this video about 100 times and double checking that I was doing everything exactly like Chris did. I ended up having to get a new condenser because there was a hole in mine from a rock. Chris, thanks so much for posting this content. It really helped me a ton and saved me a bunch of money. I truly appreciate you and your work.
Did you replace your condenser by yourself? Then use methods in the video?
@@hardcore4476 yes, the condenser was a pain to remove. One of the bolts rusted shut and I had to get a new hose as well as the condenser. Once I got it in following the steps in the video made it really easy.
@@SadChadrick That’s awesome, good deal!
Coincidentally, I have an 09 Honda Fit too and just yesterday a chuck of metal fell out of a truck that was in front of me on the highway and made impact with my car. The metal was the size of a deep well socket. About 5 minutes later my AC started blowing hot air. I got home and checked my condenser and sure enough there was a huge dent in the condenser and spray residue of AC oil everywhere. Now I'm waiting for my condenser (only $62) from Rockauto to arrive this week.
Did you have to add in refrigerant oil for the condenser?
This video is still helping people 8 years later. Just replaced the condenser in my 2015 Silverado and this video got me through the vacuum/recharge. Thank you!
Awesome!
I will be replacing the condenser as well. I had a few questions. Assuming the refrigerant leaked out through the hole/leak in the condenser.
1) Once I replace the condenser, what do you do if you still see pressure on the gauges? Did you see any remaining pressure after replacing condenser?
2) Did you still add oil, or just assume the compressor still had oil? Or should you still add oil for the new condenser you put in?
@@chrisfix I will be replacing the condenser as well. I had a few questions. Assuming the refrigerant leaked out through the hole/leak in the condenser.
1) Once I replace the condenser, what do you do if you still see pressure on the gauges? Did you see any remaining pressure after replacing condenser?
2) Did you still add oil, or just assume the compressor still had oil? Or should you still add oil for the new condenser you put in?
@@BizyBeee
I think you still have to replace some oil with any part replace. Also supposed to replace things like the filter dryer and the strainers/etc. sometimes even flushing the system is a good idea
But yeah I think you'll want to add some oil, I just don't know how much
You shouldn't see any pressure when the condenser is removed, and the system should be emptied by someone who has a machine to recover it. Usually they'll do the removal for free or pretty cheap
Yes it is! 👍🏻😎
This guy saved me hundreds of dollars just for a few minutes of his time. Not just with this video but countless others. I went from almost knowing nothing about cars to fixing my neighbors cars. Thank you Chris.
Hey Chris, I live in AZ and I have repaired a number of AC systems for myself and my friends. I use this video as a reference every time. I appreciate what you do.
do you still do these repairs? lol i wish my dad was here to help me.
this is exactly why I'm here right now...same area of the country too :P just needed a refresher
Arizona eats AC systems for lunch unfortunately, haven’t had AC in any of my any of my trucks since I moved to the Valley 2 years ago. Chris has inspired me to fix them finally 😂
How do you add compressor oil? It is weird that oil goes with refrigerant.
@@kkhang8617they sell them in cans as well
Nice videos Chris! As a (EXTRA) precaution after pulling a vacuum on a car's a/c system and after performing a system leak check for a minimum of the 30 minutes (using a R-134A manifold gauge set ONLY) and BEFORE disconnecting the manifold gauge line set: CLOSE the HIGH & LOW valve at each port, then wait another 15-30 minutes to verify that the High & Low side a/c port needle valves (a.k.a.- Schrader valves) are not leaking. Nothing's more irritating than having a charged a/c system leak at the High or Low side port, immediately after disconnecting the high & Low side line set!
I thought this through, and I think there is a slight issue... So, let's say that the Schrader valve is leaking... Well, if it leaks into a manifold gauge that is completely sealed, then there is no leak at all (no delta)... Instead, I think one would have to close off the valves, bleed the gauges, then watch to see if they go from zero to some value while the Schrader valves are not depressed... Let me know if that is flawed thinking or not... Just realizing that a Schrader valve turned backwards is a blow off valve dependent on spring strength...
Dude this is one of the best how to videos I've ever seen on any subject. Well done! If I'm just disconnecting the condenser for a short time to do an engine swap i assume i wouldn't' have to add any oil, correct? Also if I tape off the open lines would I need to replace dryer and orifice tube?
Excellent & helpful comment Jim Lechner! I know I have a leaky valve, but I had no idea which one, or how to figure how to which. The suggested offered below by The Truth Serum is also very helpful. What a fantastic channel this is @ChrisFix. What an impressive and well deserved subscriber list you have now!
Thank you so much for every TH-camr like you
@@thetruthserum2816 tough to install a schaeder valve backwards as it requires a special tool to remove and install it. Just sayin
You got the AC going my Peterbilt. Mechanic wanted 1500. I bought my compressor, air dryer, vacuum pump, freon and manifold gauges in total for 450. Thank you!
The air dryer was probably the simplest one to replace lmao- a diesel tech
Now you have the gauges and vacuum pump for the future.
Every time I have to do this (infrequently, so I can't ever remember for sure), I try going through like 5 other videos, before coming back to this one. By far the most clear, concise with all the right info and no unneeded time-wasting bits, and touching all the super important but less commonly mentioned points. You rock
about to tackle an A/C Compressor, Condenser, and Expansion valve on my 09 Civic Si. This will be the 4th ac system i have worked on and charged. Always come back to this video a couple times to make sure i do the steps properly. All 4 times have been a success and i have save THOUSANDS of dollars doing it myself.
Thank you CHRIS!!!!
i followed this video step by step, and it couldn’t have gone any better. i live in vegas and haven’t had AC all summer, but i turned on my AC today and have been smiling all day thanks to this video. this is really easy to do, as long as you have found out where your leak is, and are able to fix it. thank you!
That's what I love to see! Thanks a lot!
Hey Ben I’m in Vegas aswell , would you rent me out your vacuum pump ?!
LethalWithFlight oreilly or autozone rents both the pump and the manifold gauges, you just have to deposit like $350 but they give you all that back when you return it! that’s exactly what i did
For those of us at high altitude, the maximum vacuum your vacuum pump can pull will be less than 30" Hg. In my part of Utah, for example, it's about 26" Hg. Thanks for an excellent video-- all the needed information, but no fluff.
That makes a lot of sense. Thanks for that lil info 👍
Ha here in Kanab Utah, 5000 feet, all I could get was about 24” of Hg that explains a lot!
Pueblo, CO and I’m getting about 20
That's okay. The concern is that you get the absolute pressure in the system as low as possible. The gage pressure, which is measured at your location, is not important.
Thank you so much for this comment! I could only pull 24" at 4600ft
This is the best video on vacuum down and re-filling your A/C system with refrigerant on the internet! I've watched it 3 times and then did it on my 2004 F150 that was cycling the compressor constantly and barely cooling. Found it had low AC pressure, 50 on high side and almost nothing on low side as the compressor would only run for about 5 seconds at a time and kick out. Found it had a leak on the high side shrader valve using soap and water trick. Evac'ed the system, replaced shrader valve, vacuumed down the system for the 45-60 min, refilled with correct amount of refrigerant and the system is working great, blowing 40 degree F air again! Thanks!
How did you evac the system first? Will the vacuum evac the system?
@@michaeli-7186 Took it to our local shop, they charged me $15 to evac the system, took about 5 minutes.
Hi very nice you found and fix the leak, cuestion did you add pag oil?
I recommend replacing the Schrader valves at the high and low pressure ports. Those valves are prone to leaking o-rings after a while, and especially after a service, therefore it’s cheap insurance to just replace them. As one can see, bright green dye is visible in the ports on Chris’s high pressure port. That visible dye is indicative of a leaking schrader valve. The dye is added to refrigerant to help identify leaks on an automotive AC system.
Dye also comes out a bit anytime you use your guages on the shrader valve, but I agree, they cost 50 cents each to replace!
This is the best, I have changed 2 of these now, and the crazy thing is I just bought a car with a bad compressor and got excited because I could identify the problem and cause, then used that to knock almost an extra 1000 off the price.
Chris Fix has literally saved me thousands of dollars with how to vids and giving me the confidence to learn how to do this stuff on my own.
Awesome! I'm glad the videos have saved you thousands!
@@chrisfixmy high pressure side connection was hard to take off. In the video you closed it and pulled it off no problem. For me i closed it and it was to tight to pull the quick disconnect. It still had refrigerant in the line. I ended up having to open the high pressure side on the valve (where the gauges are) and it came out the yellow hose. I could not get the quick disconnect to release otherwise.
Did i do something wrong? 😢
The low pressure side came off exactly like in your video.
I really like seeing videos where a DIY project is explained and performed properly. A vehicle's AC system is nothing to screw around with, but as demonstrated in this video, absolutely something that most people could do with a little mechanical ability, and a lot of attention paid to the details. Excellent video here! Thank you for showing this!
Should the yellow valve be open or closed when vacuuming
@@joseaponte8729 There is no open or close valve on the yellow vacuum line. Just hook it up
@@joseaponte8729 Just for other's benefit since I just did this and it's fresh on my mind: The high pressure (red) line has a valve at the gauge set. The low pressure (blue) line has a valve at the gauge set. If you open either one of these valves it opens a directly path to the yellow line immediately! You never open the valves on the gauges until you are doing a vacuum or filling refrigerant into the system! The ONLY valves you need to open to observe the pressures in the system are the valves on the AC line ends of your blue and red hoses.
Chris speaks clear and direct, with a calm demeanor, Thankyou! Chris.. You're the working man's friend..
Chris,
I just got our cars a/c compressor replaced and charged with correct refrigerant amount 2 weeks ago with your video.
The way you explained was awesome!
Thank you!!
Glad the video was helpful!
@@chrisfix Hello friend Im hoping you can help me 🙏🙏 I watched you video and followed precisly your methods but when I jumped the clutch and tried to get the refrigerant in it would not take in the refrigerant 😪 I worked one it allay even re vacuumed the system and redid the entire proceed but it would not suck in the refrigerant.. what am i not doing rite?? any help or guidance is very much appreciated 🙏🙏
Man, you are probably the only TH-camr who chooses to go the long and proper way in order to correct even the tiniest of mistakes.
Props to you.
+FrozenHaxor Yea, the only problem is now none of 20,000 people who watched the first version will watch the second version (or at least watch it fully) and they wont thumbs up so it wont make it into TH-cam's algorithm so it wont become popular for people to watch and see. Sucks but I want it to be 100% !
+ChrisFix I actually watched both fully AND liked this one :P
+ChrisFix Now I feel bad now for commenting on that line purge on the previous video :P
By the way, how about a video on replacing the compressor pulley bearing? As far as I know, nobody has done a proper video about it and now you have an old compressor that you could show this on.
+ChrisFix im muting it and letting it play.
+ChrisFix some have.
Everyone from my area know about Chris fix, he is a living legend for my people and myself.
Wish he was my neighbor 🤣😅
Just changed the a/c compressor on my daughter's 2012 Mini clubman. The steps in this video were incredibly helpful for me. Her a/c is blowing snow flakes now!!! Thanks Chris. Outstanding video!!
An additional tip for car AC service: If your manifold gauge set isn't new (mine is inherited), check the condition of the rubber refrigerant hose seals. They can be replaced and should be replaced if they are old, compressed, hard, or otherwise deteriorated -- either that, or purchase a new hose set. Also, when storing the manifold gauge set, loosen the fittings a bit so the seals don't get compressed. Tighten them when you are ready to use them.
Mine were so old, when I tried to remove the seals, they came out in hard, crumbly pieces.
You mean, there is a rubber seal inside the SAE 1/4 inch-type metal connector ?
I love it when Chris does a fix on the vehicle you have. Makes things even more clear than they already are.
I am SUPER happy that you really go in-depth and step by step. I am no car guy, but watching your videos have finally gave me the courage to buy some tools, a jack/ramps and stands. I can now level up and do an oil change on my girlfriends car instead of paying someone else. Please continue and thank you for being my teacher :)
+Allen Ruiz Awesome Allen! I am glad you are learning a lot and now have some tools and even change the oil!
All the other videos on TH-cam don’t tell viewers how to add the oil. Thank you so much for showing this step
Thank you Chris. Your video walked me right through the steps to recharge my system after a compressor and condenser change out.
System putting out 46.3 degree air at 86 degrees ambient.
Well done sir.
That's what I love to see right there!
I've watched several videos about this and yours is without a doubt the best and most concise I've seen. It's been a few years since I recharged a system. Your video was exactly what I needed. Thanks. Great video.
You are absolutely right about that, I have a ton of equipment and his video explaining how to fix things are the best.
I don't know some people dislike this video? The guy and his video is one of the most detailed on you tube about DIY a/c refill. Good job man and ignore the idiots who dislikes your info.
Thanks a lot Dan! Hater's gonna hate as they say! I am glad the video was helpful!
Mhmm they are just haters. We have to avoid them or else we feel bad and discouraged
dan deac - it’s the a/c professional who spent big bucks on schools and AC certification who are complain.
Medically speaking, a physician is the only person actually qualified to put on a band-aid.
Excellent video Chris. One final step I usually do is to get a little bit of water with some dish soap in it and put that in the needle valves connections. If there's any bubbles present you know the Schrader valves are leaking. I like to put just a small amount of refrigerant in first before I do this test so I don't waste refrigerant.
Simple yet thorough explanations! I love how Chris explains the ‘whys’ and ‘why nots’ of doing things. My go-to guy.
He did say "run" the errands...strap them sneakers on.
Thank you Chris! My AC went out recently and I was able to do it my self and save some
Money. It started get warm in my area recently, so I feel relieved now.
7 yrs ago and this is the go to video every time I do a a/c recharge to make sure I do it right. Thanks for a wonderful video!!!🎉
A repair shop near me was trying to charge me $250 just to install a new compressor (sold separately) and fill up the refrigerant. So pretty much $150 for the labor and $100 for the refrigerant lol. I'm really motivated now to DIY after this detailed vid.
That is actually a good price for that job.
Thanks Chris, your walkthrough actually help me fix the AC on my suburban after I replace the compressor from a junkyard. Saved me a few hundred bucks from calling an AC tech for doing something relatively simple, so thanks man!
why do they charge so much for ac service then
@@kneebarx Because this service requires tools and some basic training. The same reason people pay for A/C recharge service is the same they do for oil change or brake jobs. Convenience. Of not having to buy tools, learn something new, and potentially harm yourself or your car trying to fix it.
I’m a total DIY everything in my life kinda guy. I also understand why some of my friends and family will pony up their hard earned cash to get a service done.
@@Ngcarson1337 Just did it myself and works great. after having the right tools found out that it’s ridiculously easy.
@@kneebarx oh for sure, it always helps to have the right tools and knowledge!
I actually picked up the same gauges from this video during harbor freight’s Memorial Day sale for $35. I’ll be purging and refilling my A/C system for the first time using this video. The local Honda dealer wanted $260. No. Thank. You.
Praise the internet, platforms, and search engines for allowing us this information! 🙏🏼 stay blessed.
After watching 20 plus videos I felt the need to write a comment. Thank you for all you do, you literally are the definition of TH-cam university towards Automotive I feel like taking a car apart just for giggles now lol
Graduated automotive school & im still watching your videos 😅Thx for the link on all the tools !
Never hurts to keep learning.
If I alright have a bit of refrigerant but it's low to where it pretty much only runs after the car has been sitting for hours (high and low psi are the same at around 35 psi with weather at about 90° and well above 50% humidity) do I have to pull a vacuum? Or is that only for when the system is empty or components are replaced or compressor is bad or something? I know I have a slow leak but I wanna recharge it with dye added to find it. Blows cold but only for like an hour then blows warm. Maybe not enough pressure after a while
Thanks
@adictiveadictive always pull vacuum. Especially since you have a leak. There is bound to be moisture inside the system.
@@dadirtydawg7789
Even with having pressure in the system? I was told by a few people a vacuum is not necessary in that case. Was just trying to confirm
Thank you for making this video. I charged my AC system for the first time myself using the steps in this video. Saved me from paying the dealer $300 to charge the system. It was so great and had many steps.
great video. just keep in mind high side hose is pressurized when taking the hoses off the manifold gauge. can cause some damage if removed carelessly.
Thanks for the tip and thanks a lot!
Hey man been wanting to reach out to you. I’ve been watching your videos since maybe 2012. Learned a lot and because of your detailed videos I’ve come a long way! Started as an amateur mechanic with no college degree and I am now a 3 year diesel technician and loving learning more and more each day!! You deserve every like, follow and subscription that you’ve gained over the years. Thank you! Kick ace teacher.
Thank you so much Chris I bought an 01 mustang gt 5 speed and I've done just about everyone of your tutorials on her to get her right now she's running pitch perfect!!
@@MercuryRisingFast Hows the AC coming along?
@@MercuryRisingFast I love it when a plan comes together.
@@MercuryRisingFast Mine had a problem. It ended up being a rotten vacuum hose and a non working vacuum check valve. I imagine parts of the disentigrating hose are in the check part. Now, i put some hooks in the ceiling and hang meat in it at night because it is so cold. But, it is nice because I like to take my little dog everywhere. I can leave it running with the AC blowing, and she is fine. Im in a rough rural environment here. I was twenty miles away at a chicken farm replacing a compressor last night on an International truck. But, shes my pal, checks out the area while I am working.
Top 10 most useful videos I've ever watched in my life, I build engines and rebuild cars all the time... Hvac stuff I usually shy away from until this video simplified it so much. Awesome work.
I'm glad this made it easy for you! Thanks!
That's why I wanted you to be so good. Not everyone can think like you. Step by step, I have accepted you as a teacher.
@Taken Apart What's that step?
Exactly taken apart what steps are those?
Yo Chris thank you so much! Just replaced my A/c compressor for just the cost of the parts and I rented the vacuum pump and manifold gauges from Oreily’s. I couldn’t have done it without your videos. You are awesome my man 👍🏽😁
That's what I love to hear! Thanks a lot!
nnnnoooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooo
Thank you so much for this video. I had to replace my heater core in my Ram 2500 before winter so wasn't to worried about AC but now the temps were in the 90's and had to get this done. Your video made it very easy to recharge my system and the air went from 101 degrees down to 50. Everybody riding in my truck will now enjoy the AC especially my kids who had to endure a 2 and half hour trip with temps in the mid 90's. I was able to rent the equipment at the parts store get it filled up and return the equipment all in about 2 1/2 hours. Again Thanks!
Nice triple 7’s! What store did you rent the equipment from?
@@hardcore4476 I have rented them from O'Reilly's before and now bought the manifold and vacuum from Harbor Frieght. I have done this several times now so this video is super helpful!
@@superbon777 Awesome! How do you evacuate the refrigerant and do you lose any oil when doing so?
@@hardcore4476 I rigged an old AC filler to open while connected that has a trigger I could depress and used the universal tank recovery unit 😜. I had no oil loss. Only time I had any loss was actually messing with the compressor and having the lines disconnected for other engine related work.
@@superbon777 Right on.. All is good I fixed it and have ice cold air now! I had to use cheap orange vacuum pump from harbor fart because I couldn’t find an adapter for my vacuum pump anywhere that hooked up to manifold Ac gauges.
Great video. Just replaced my evaporator today and will be charging system tomorrow. I’ve never done AC work but feel confident I can do it now that I’ve watched your video.
Thanks! And you can do it!
You have to be the first guy I've seen on TH-cam to actually do this job right, great demo, very informative and easy to follow. although just one tip, if changing to a brand new compressor and you need to add to oil, it's far better to tip the oil straight into the compressor rather than through your gauge lines, and then rotate the clutch on the compressor. That way when you first start the compressor it's properly lubricated and doesn't suffer any potential damage. But without a doubt a great tutorial
Great tip/idea! Thanks!
ChrisFix hey Chris quick question ??? So my Dodge Ram is blowing warm air. The compressor and clutch are spinning ,everything Is working fine except it’s blowing warm air . Can I just check the Freon level and add necessary amount or do I have to vaccum out everything before adding Freon???? Thank you
Tim Toolman so the compressor is definitely starting? If it is you should connect your gauges to the system and see what pressures you get, if you have exceedingly high pressure on the high side it may indicate that the orrifice tube/expansion valve is blocked or failed. Also while testing set to max fan speed and max cooling
Mathew Barnes hey Matthew so I hooked up the gauges which ac full blast and my reading was 60 psi on low side and about 45 psi on high side . Can you tell me what this could be ?
Tim Toolman are both hand wheels at your gauge set closed, and is it a 134a system? Also check if the belt is loose
I like how you never do anything half way and strive to make every video perfect. I appreciate this and I'm glad you added that new part worth purging the yellow line even though it was not a big deal leaving it out.
+Chris Thanks a lot Chris! I really appreciate it!
Hey Chris Fix!
I have a 2005 camry. The only time I get very cold air is when I push the recycle button and ona very hot day I have to crank the fan up for the car to stay cold. I have added freon but it still goin the same way after a couple days. Does this mean compressor going bad?PLEASE HELP anyone! somebody!
@@Grenplen One of the hardest things your a/c has to cope with is removing the humidity from the air inside your vehicle. When you're not on recycle, you're pulling in warm humid air from outside instead of the air inside that has already cycled through your evaporator and had some of its moisture removed.
@@jeremy49988 I believe you're correct. But I also heard that too much recycled air can cause too much moisture.?? 🤔
Fan needs to be on High and recirculate. Put temp guage in center vent. Put both cans in because of bleeding off both cans and removing both lines...plus whats left in the manifold guage lines...probably more than 2 ounces. The manifold guages and vent temp guage will let you know if system needs more/less refridgerant or is having a problem. The weight listed is more of a guide. Charge the first can upside down...second can upside down for half a can then leave upright for finish charging. The refrigerent will turn to a gas immediately when it reaches atmosphere/vacuum. Its only liquid under HIGH pressure.
What about if you have cans of refrigerant from walmart (SuperTech brand) that are already pierced?
Thank you so much for this video.
I'm handicapped and poor, having problems paying the workshops to repair it 2 times without success.
Now I looked into it and found a hole on the low pressure side, repaired it with a garden hose fitting 😂.
And ordered the pump and coolant. Sometimes it's best to take matters into your own hands, it is cheaper too. Working like a charm.
Thank you 🙏🏼
Dude you are the man I have been working on cars for my repairs and was always afraid to tackle the A/C system. But this video is a great guide and you helped me. I replaced my A/C compressor and Drier and Receiver. With no issues. Works great I live in Florida and the air blows at 23 degrees at 89 degrees outside. Thanks Man I owe you.
AWESOME!!! Glad to hear it and nice work!
Hey Go nzo, how can I contact you privately. I have couple questions regarding A/C system. I plan to change out my compressor but when you do a evacuation on the system, wouldnt this suck up the oil too?
This might be HELPFUL to somebody. I turned on my vacuum pump in order to get the LOW pressure line on my 99 ' Buick Regal other wise i couldn't get it to go on and lock ! Thanks Chrisfix great video , i got my AC going just in time for the summer !
Thanks for sharing and thanks a lot!
Great job as always! One minor point is that at 90F, according to AC standard chart, it requires 45 minimum on low and 250 minimum on high. You only got 40 and 200 PSI instead.
I didn't hear him say anything about high low pressure so glad you did
you are 100% correct but since he weighed in the refer, it doesn't really matter. system fill sticker on the hood takes care of all that.
Oh. I just found the source for your data. NO. Those are general pressure guidelines. OEM specs are EXACT. Cooling to near 40 degrees is the proof. If superheat isn't being calculated, those pressures could cause a lot of trouble.
@@crforfreedom7407 What’s superheat?
@@OxBlitzkriegxO You can't get an accurate weight. You have the weight of the green can piercing tool AND the yellow charge hose, sitting on the scale. Unless you remove the can from the tap and weight it. If you do that you loose gas/liquid so your weight is OFF. Very hard to get this proper by weight. What hurts us is these small 10oz cans. Our systems need more than one can. Changing cans and such you loose gas/liquid.
I went to school yrs ago for HVAC, I never persued it as a career but it came in handy knowing a little bit in the Maintenance field. With that aside, I was taught to always charge gas to the low side to prevent blowing the compressor. I stuck to that religiously for years,,, and, well, I haven't killed any yet ! Lol,, TY Bro, I really dig this channel, you do a great job ! 😎✌️
If you have a vacuum, just add the freon from the high side and the vacuum will pull the freon in. Most of the times I can get it all in with out ever cranking the vehicle. This prevents pushing the oil out of the compressor through the low side before the compressor starts pumping. I do this every day on a larger scale with Greyhound size tour buses. Some of them hold 45 lbs of freon and with a good vacuum I can get a whole 30 lb. can feon in from vacuum alone without ever starting the bus up.
Hi moparnutjim. I lost the charge and refrigerant by opening the low side port to atmosphere. Would there be any refrigerant left in the high side and if I pull a vacuum do I need to add any oil at this point?
Gary Bolinky. Yes you can, but it's likely to take air in simultaneously.
So after sucking the oil in, start again on vacuum process, attach just to the low side otherwise much of your new oil heads for the vac pump.
Thank you. This was a huge help for me to recharge my Jeep after replacing the compressor.
Chris excellent video I've always been timid about doing my own AC however my son's Subaru blew an O Ring draining the system after fixing that, we bought the Harbor Freight setup like yours and followed your video to the T it worked perfectly and even after buying the equipment we still ended up cheaper than having it done in a shop... Thanks for putting these videos out for those of us car guys who have never done or uncertain about doing certain things on their cars.
Nice
My 1997 gmc finally blows cold for the first time in 4 years of ownership! I ended up replacing all components but used your vids a lot as support! Thank you so much
Hey chris im a auto tech from Tx. Just wanted to mention the new ac cans have a saftey valve inserted and the Schrader valve itself wont pierce the can all the way down and wont release the r134a. Auto parts sells a 5$ adapter that goes under the valve.. Just thought id share with other DIY community.
You don't know what a schrader valve is as that's not what you are describing
@@PWgadgets yes he does all the new cans are self sealing the have a schrader valve in the top of the can. this video is slightly incorrect as the can adapter needs to be screwed down in order to open the can. the pierce style fill adapters no longer work with the new cans
Nice job! That's for someone who was in the mechanic side 20 years.
This is a great and useful video but it starts from systems that are empty from having leaks or repairs. It would be nice to see this explained on systems that are just getting checked for low levels and how to add what is needed. To evacuate the system you would need a container to put the freon in, and weigh it, then fill by weight. But still, a good video. RIP Chris Fix, you were a gift to mankind.
Thanks again, Chris for the video! One very important note since this video is about 8 years old, most of the newer cans of R134a our self sealing due to regulation. What this means is, you’ll need an additional adapter. Its usually blue and cost $10 for the new style cans. Without this additional adapter, none of the refrigerant will come out when you try and pierce it.
I like Chris and his videos. I can't find fault in them. Are there an AC masters watching this that can explain why over 3000 people thumbed it down? I can't find any problem with the video.
I know there are always "haters" but.. seriously? 3000+?
Those are the people with r1234yf systems.
It was probably people who live in California and Colorado who don't want those of us who live in States like Louisiana where it gets hot and humid as hell.😅
Whooo Hoooo I did it! Great video bud. I was always afraid to do a/c. Now my 1990 chevyvan 30 small RV has a/c again!
Did you retrofit?
@@truthhurts2149 No that was already done had replace the condenser underneath the dash with some leaks and get a new compressor, but I did it… Harbor freight.
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I've watched a few videos now and I must commend you on how thorough they are. Great job, it's greatly appreciated
I just did what you said, and I went from an 11pm temp reading in Arizona of 95deg F to 40.8deg F. Thanks, Chrisfix!!
Great advice for U.S. guys. Unfortunately in Aus, we need to be licensed under Ozone and Greenhouse gas regulations to even purchase this gas. Is probably why we repairers can sometimes get a bad rap for being expensive with our repairs. Cheers from Aus. P.S. A tip for replacing a compressor is to do an oil balance as per the warranty sheet with the new compressor, this will compensate for oil already in the system and will stop oil slugging the new compressor from too much oil in the system. Always replace the Filter dryer to remove any old oil/metal particles and moisture trapped in it.
From Australia too, was thinking the same thing, and top ups are illegal, as you must have a leak in the system
@@MrMarkguth Sometimes I find simple leaks like access caps missing and put that down to a leak, but yeah they make it hard for licenced repairers, if they do top ups. I depends on the customer and how much they want to pay.
Great video. Well edited and well spoken, only the info needed. I had a cracked condenser and I was confident I could change that but the vacuuming with the crazy looking hoses and gauges had me intimidated. This video gave me the confidence to do it. Thanks.
Have you done it yet?
@@hardcore4476he still scared he's looking at the hoses next will be grabbing them
Very well presented. I have refrigeration classes and you’re very thorough and spot on.
If your gauge set doesn't have a Freon bleed, just loosen the connection at the gauge set.
I've never seen refrigerant/oil data on any of my cars. Good on Toyota! My latest AC repair required my official GM factory manuals to give me that information.
I wonder why the valves on the port connectors are backwards in terms of closing an opening standards.
Great video. I really appreciate the fast, accurate conversation w/o wandering, mumbling, trying again. It was a good refresher for me as I recharge a system tomorrow.
Thanks a lot and great tip!
Losing points with TH-cam over your sense of integrity makes me like and trust you even more (and I thought that was impossible)! :>) Thanks Chris. You are truly one of good guys.
+A LeBlanc ?? how did he lose points with YT? Just curious.
His statement actually. I think taking down the first, most watched over the second, which he didn't think would be watched by as many people would count against his total watched count...bit I'm only guessing.
A LeBlanc
Ah...I see. Thanks.
+A LeBlanc Thanks bud! I truely want the best content I can produce and the best tips I can give so when I realized I left out the purging tip (even though it isnt really necessary) I wanted to go back and include it. I wish I would have realized it before because this video will not become popular since most people wont watch it again and if they do, they wont watch the whole thing which is super important for the youtube algorithm.
+Tommy Rad I reuploaded the video when I realized I left out the purging tip (even though it isnt really necessary). This was after almost 30k people saw the video so I wont be getting those views on this video which means this video wont get popular.
Chris, you probably are already well aware of how many people you’ve helped. Again, another great video. Thank yo so much for your clear, precise demonstration and explanation!
Glad the videos are helpful!!!
Thank you Chris, I trust you more than I trust myself.
My third go around using this as my instruction manual.
I’m betting we’re gonna go 3/3. Excellent video tutorial!
I’m more than comfortable underneath the hood of a vehicle but you explained this well enough I think most people would feel confident following your easy to follow instructions! I’m impressed with the breakdown and quality of your explanations .
Great tutorial! Thanks for posting this! I’m replacing a condenser on a Mitsubishi Mirage and now feel confident in doing the job correctly. My only question is how much oil to add.
Awesome! I would search online or in a service manual and see if it has the spec on how much oil to add for a condenser replacement.
So i had a leak on my a/c and replace condenser so everything gas and oil came out of the sistem? If not how do i know how much oil to put it?
2024 and my husband just did this to his Ford works great thanks 🎉🎉
Nice concise and to the point. No BS and decent camera work. Good job and thanks.
I replaced all major parta in my gfs nissan and founf the expansion valve leaked. I watched so many videos through this whole process. I used the uv dye founf it was the expansion valve checked all the o rings and it leaked again. I spent money on gauges and a pump and no other video told me that if i close off the lines to hold a vaccum if it went back to zero the system was not air tight. I made some adjustments and now im holding a vaccum and ready to add the refrigerant! Thanks chrisfix you da man!!
I just want to say thanks for posting this video, with a liitle common sense troubleshooting and your video I was able to fix my AC in my conversion van. Thanks Again!!!!
When u suck the gas from car through vaccum. Where th gas goes from there
Good! Worked like ya said, 98 Honda Civic 5 Speed 300k miles Good!
Awesome!
That reminds me, I need to put my 01 civic together. The cam position sensor was going out, I wasnt driving it. They told me, but it was fine when i tried it. But, it did it on me once. Made the exhaust manifold get red hot, and it was bright red. Made the head gasket leak. I took head off. In retrospect, I had a couple of loose head bolts, should have just tightened and kept going. Bolts just got hot and loosened. Barely a leak. I could go 22 miles before it would get hot.
Who else wishes this guy was their neighbor lol
Me
Look around you never know, I’ve got me a Chris fix lol
You are my hero.
You + borrowed tools + WOMEN CAN FIX THEIR OWN CARS saved me $500 on this job alone. You've helped me on other jobs too. ❤❤❤ Thank you.
I'm glad you saved a ton of money doing this yourself! That's what its all about! Thanks a lot!
Checking with vacuum won't always expose leaks. Pressurizing with nitrogen will. Edit: most compressors require the filter/dryer to be replaced as well to honour the compressor warranty.
Amen
The AC guy said I need a new compressor- parts and labor 1000$ ... I open this video, replace the compressor valve and recharge AC like in video now my AC 45 F it's crazy. only 20$ valve not a 1000$ . Thanks man for the detailed video !
Thank you so much! I haven’t had ac in my car for 6 years and today it works.
You are good to go now.
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Just to let you know, Chris< thank you again for all your excellent knowledge, I was able to replace and repair my AC compressor the right way, and now my STI is nice and cool. Not only has this video helped me, but most of your videos have. Thank you for all your hard work and content. One of the best channels. !
Main error I notice, at 8:05 attempting to add oil / dye? After vac and before adding gas?
No. You'll never tip it down the hose in sufficient quantity OR without air getting in the yellow hose.
The answer is 2 vacs.
An initial vac assists in adding oil etc (if needed). Use vac to "suck" the oil up the hose.
Then re-vac to 500 micron ensures no air in the system. Then add the gas.
Better still add oil straight into compressor while it's on the ground.
You can't do what he showed above without compromising the vac.
Nathan I just ran into this problem. Should have read the comments
Great video. Unfortunately the cheap manifold gauges that I bought had a refrigerant adapter that leaked badly out of the can tap. I simply evacuated the system again, then manually added refrigerant using a re-usable recharge kit hose, and continued to weight the cannisters every few minutes to ensure I only charged with 22 ounces. Kia Sorento's AC is ice cold and ready for a 30 hour road trip next month!
Darn! At least you got it working! Let me know how your road trip goes!
Very thorough way to properly add refrigerant. Thanks again Chris!
I just did this on my 2002 Ram using this video. Never have done this before. I bought the Vacuum Pump and Gauges today and now have ice cold A/C. Thank you for the Video
NEVER turn the can upside down when connected to the low side!!! If you do liquid refrigerant coming out of the can can hydrolock the compressor and destroy it.
baloney
@@puppetmasterblaster Yeh ok that's why I saw it happen right in front of me by someone who thought like you. The funny thing is I argued time and time again with this so called tech about it. I guess he learned his lesson the hard way. Just please don't work on anyone else's car but your own. Also if you bothered reading the text books IF you have your AC certs it states my comment exactly in the book. I've been doing this for 30 years including AC systems on aircraft but you know best.
@@richardp6178 When charging it right side up. Will the liquid refrigerant eventually turn to vapor as your charging the system? In other words will I be able to use a full can without pouring straight liquid refrigerant?
@Edgar acosta when you charge with the can upright the pump will draw the gas on top of the liquid in the can and compress that gas into a liquid. On cold days you can help this process along by heating the bottle with a hot air gun. If you turn the can upside down it will draw the liquid into the pump. Pumps can't compress liquid only gas so it will hydro lock the pump.
Richard P Funny... Chris Has Refrigerant Can Upside Down No Problem 🤔
Definitely great step by step flow on how to do a proper job thank you
Thanks a lot!
@@chrisfix what even is “recharging an AC”
@@jayasmrmore3687 refill
Chris where did you learn all the car stuff you know??? I just started working at GM and learned this stuff at work!
I wish Chris would reply to this comment.
Palahume I don’t think he can just be great full for him he’s helped us out a lot ....thanks Chris
Pretty much unless you go to a mechanic school... most people like myself who are pretty good with cars learn by watching videos, reading books, asking veteran mechanics questions, and researching online.. and as the years add up and working on friends or families cars, your own, or apprenticing in a shop... you get pretty good... good luck with the new job.. peace
chris i bet ive watched a hundred youtube videos on this and ill say you are the best at explaining ,you are patient and clear thanks again
Quick, Clear, Concise, Accurate.
when charging a refrigeration system, always in most cases use vapor charge. refrigerant bottle standing upright. ok
Late response but liquid low side turn the can upside down is completely fine saves a lot more time then doing vapor.
@@fearvenom1525 Never ever charge upside down for car ACs, it might be quicker but liquid should never go inside a compressor, break those reed valves and bye bye compressor.
Only time you should ever charge an AC with the can upside down is if the refrigerant is a blend such as R-410a, r-421a ect but these only exist as building AC refrigerants. R-134a is not a blend there for it does not need to be upside down.
Yup..you right bro..
@@misterbaxter3734 only time you can charge with can upside down is through high side port and vehicle off.
So Chris did it wrong? I should never turn the can upside down? Should I shake it while it being drawn in?
$89.99 sale for Vacuum Pump and $59.99 for Gauges at Harbor Freight
Get a 20% off coupon for HF they have every week or use the Honey App to get it in your cart . Save your money on the pump go to Autozone and give them $150 deposit to use theirs. Get the $150 back when you return the pump.
So I did the exact steps, and when I went to purge the yellow hose, oil came out instead of the air. I'm not sure what to do next. [Update: 06/12/24] I'm pretty sure the vacuum was cheap and somehow sucked out oil onto the manifold gauge. I tried to purge it and a small amount came out. I had no other choice, but to move forward and put in the refrigerant. I checked the measurements and drove it yesterday and it's cooling me down. So far so good. Thanks, Chris for creating this free and really informative content! 👍