Great vid. Most people think the bushings pivot around the bolt instead of flexing like you showed. It's hard to believe, but the rubber is bonded to the inner and outer pieces and the movement is just from the rubber flexing. It's a wonder the rubber doesn't rip from the metal and fail a lot sooner than it does.
GREAT VID! Helps me a lot! Im going to be changing both my lower control arms this weekend and I was desperate to learn how to do it myself rather than paying over 100 buks for a shop to do it. Thank you!
When I did this job, on a Dodge Avenger, I made this mistake. Also I replaced both of the lower control arms to try to fix a problem with the vehicle jolting in random directions while driving. It didn't fix the problem. The front susp was tight then and I was confused. I was in my shop a few weeks later and I kicked one of the rear tires and it turned. A control arm on the back had caught something and popped out of the bushing. Good Video!
Robinsonsauto-- Thank you so much for making this Eclipse Control Arm video. I had so many problems with my 1997 eclipse, now after watching your video I will fix the problem for good.
Wow I never knew about that having it tightened only when the car is at ride height. Mine were semi shot when I purchased the car used in 99 but now I know when I finally do get around to replacing them what to do. Only downfall is my car has Air suspension setup so its a bit more tricky to just crawl under the car like that but I'll figure something out when the time comes. Great videos though man, From one DSM owner to another keep up the great work.
Your welcome, that's a Pittsburgh-pro 1/2 drive love the style its similar to my snap-on ratchet i use often, been putting this one to the test, holding up well
I torqued them with a long Snapon extension and utilizing the gap in front of the wheel to work the torque wrench. Was still difficult. Braced the head of the torque wrench on a 2x4 so I could focus on tightening. I had to attach the new arm in a different order than you, as the strut fought me pretty hard. Did that first, then ball joint, then inner bushing. Wore my back out doing this job on the ground. Took longer than expected too.
Love your vids! I share this video link to a DSM group in MN where I'm from and snow cold weather potholes streets can be pretty brutal on our 20 year old cars. This vid has contributed thanks a lot for the knowledge. Much appreciated!
Was nice and unfortunate to have one of these on my driver side drop out on me when i was going about 25/30. Busted the axle and smashed up the front fender a bit on the bottom since the shock mount was bouncing off the ground. You'd think there'd at least be an aftermarket solution to anchor the shock to something in case of this happening so the vehicle is still movable in the event of the ball joint pulling out, considering the lateral arms have a recall.
I agree by far its my most used harbor fright tool i own i purchased the 1/2 drive first knowing how much i like my snap-on similar style longer handle this one seemed a perfect length i liked it so much i went back and got the 1/4 and 3/8 drive i striped out the 1/4 drive internals after hrs of hard use, cant let that knock it i have done the same with high end tools as well, i need to exchange it, every time i go for a 1/4 ratchet i get disappointed and realize how much i like that style
Cant recall the style bushings used on that model However, this will apply to any suspension component that uses molded bushing like i demonstrated, hope that helps
Yup. I have the ratchet in 3/8 inch. It's the best ratchet I have, and I dare say it's the best ratchet Harbor freight sells. They have improved their ratchets a lot recently. The first time I saw this swivel head type was an SK a few decades ago. I don't know if they first made it and their patent expired so others can make it, but it's the one to get IMO.
Thank you so much for making this video! I just did this on both sides of my Eclipse with your video playing in the background. Only difference is, I had to disconnect the ends of the sway bar because I could not manipulate the shock fork as easy as you. Great tip on torquing the bolts only when the spindle is in stock configuration. I put a jack under the ball joint when torquing everything to spec.
I have a 95 eclipse. a few years ago my control arms were worn out. I found out that there was a recall on the lower control arms. I brought it to Mitsubishi and had two brand new ones installed for nothing.
I just bought a 1999 Eclipse GS and took it to a shop to get it looked at to see what kind of work it would need. The guy said that the control arms are bad and being held together by bolts and they at rotting away. I asked how much it would be to have it fixed and they said they don't mess with that stuff since its structural. Does that sound right? Can it actually be fixed?
set the tires on a brick or 2, or 4x4 post sections, you will get the height and be able to have some more room to work. All the body weight will be on the car and the right height to tighten the bolts to specs, of course, you will need to jack the car a second time to remove the height adjusters, ie bricks or 4X4's. old race car tricks at the track. get er done..(CAUTION) MAKE SURE YOU SET THE BRAKES AND CHOCK THE WHEELS!
I try to loosen the nut and seem like it’s not loosening it self up I’m doing the way he doing it and it seem like I just losing it for hours someone help !
Should always tighten the bolts at rest position but most Technicians don't.I always tighten at rest position though.Audis' are very specific about doing this.This don't matter on bushings that can move like the other control arm that was next to the one replaced in this video.
![ตีสิบเดย์ [FULL] | เปิดใจ "อาจารย์ เบียร์ ฅนตื่นธรรม" นักสนทนาธรรมสายดุดัน!](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/vqaBI_mnoDk/mqdefault.jpg)
11 years in the future and your a great help to me, the only video I could find detailing exactly how to fix my eclipse.
that's awesome! thank you for the feedback
Great vid. Most people think the bushings pivot around the bolt instead of flexing like you showed. It's hard to believe, but the rubber is bonded to the inner and outer pieces and the movement is just from the rubber flexing. It's a wonder the rubber doesn't rip from the metal and fail a lot sooner than it does.
GREAT VID! Helps me a lot! Im going to be changing both my lower control arms this weekend and I was desperate to learn how to do it myself rather than paying over 100 buks for a shop to do it. Thank you!
This video was perfect man. THANK YOU! first rodeo here and the job didn’t suck thanks to you
When I did this job, on a Dodge Avenger, I made this mistake. Also I replaced both of the lower control arms to try to fix a problem with the vehicle jolting in random directions while driving. It didn't fix the problem. The front susp was tight then and I was confused. I was in my shop a few weeks later and I kicked one of the rear tires and it turned. A control arm on the back had caught something and popped out of the bushing. Good Video!
Robinsonsauto--
Thank you so much for making this Eclipse Control Arm video. I had so many problems with my 1997 eclipse, now after watching your video I will fix the problem for good.
Will, that's a very good demonstration of a common mistake -- one that I would have made if I hadn't watched your video. Great demo.
Wow I never knew about that having it tightened only when the car is at ride height. Mine were semi shot when I purchased the car used in 99 but now I know when I finally do get around to replacing them what to do. Only downfall is my car has Air suspension setup so its a bit more tricky to just crawl under the car like that but I'll figure something out when the time comes. Great videos though man, From one DSM owner to another keep up the great work.
Your welcome, that's a Pittsburgh-pro 1/2 drive love the style its similar to my snap-on ratchet i use often, been putting this one to the test, holding up well
I torqued them with a long Snapon extension and utilizing the gap in front of the wheel to work the torque wrench. Was still difficult. Braced the head of the torque wrench on a 2x4 so I could focus on tightening. I had to attach the new arm in a different order than you, as the strut fought me pretty hard. Did that first, then ball joint, then inner bushing. Wore my back out doing this job on the ground. Took longer than expected too.
Sometimes it can be the things you least expect, im glad you got it straightened out, thank you for sharing
Excellent advice on the lose bolts and let her sit and then tighten it 👌👌
thanks for the video, what kind of ratchet is that? the head looks interesting.
Love your vids! I share this video link to a DSM group in MN where I'm from and snow cold weather potholes streets can be pretty brutal on our 20 year old cars. This vid has contributed thanks a lot for the knowledge. Much appreciated!
Was nice and unfortunate to have one of these on my driver side drop out on me when i was going about 25/30. Busted the axle and smashed up the front fender a bit on the bottom since the shock mount was bouncing off the ground. You'd think there'd at least be an aftermarket solution to anchor the shock to something in case of this happening so the vehicle is still movable in the event of the ball joint pulling out, considering the lateral arms have a recall.
me too
Chris Fronczak just hapened to me today..
I agree by far its my most used harbor fright tool i own i purchased the 1/2 drive first knowing how much i like my snap-on similar style longer handle this one seemed a perfect length i liked it so much i went back and got the 1/4 and 3/8 drive i striped out the 1/4 drive internals after hrs of hard use, cant let that knock it i have done the same with high end tools as well, i need to exchange it, every time i go for a 1/4 ratchet i get disappointed and realize how much i like that style
Thank you for the compliment, glad you found it beneficial, I always look foreword to seeing your feedback thanks
Cant recall the style bushings used on that model However, this will apply to any suspension component that uses molded bushing like i demonstrated, hope that helps
Do you have to use grease on the new control arm?
Like for tie rod ends?
Some of them have hole for grease
Thank you, your test light was awesome as well, I had a blast participating,
Thank you for subscribing, will do the same
Thank you for the compliment, and for sharing your insight and tips, its appreciated
Your welcome
Yup. I have the ratchet in 3/8 inch. It's the best ratchet I have, and I dare say it's the best ratchet Harbor freight sells. They have improved their ratchets a lot recently. The first time I saw this swivel head type was an SK a few decades ago. I don't know if they first made it and their patent expired so others can make it, but it's the one to get IMO.
Does the same advice (not tightening bolts till in rest position) hold true for cars with just one control arm, like my Ford Probe/ aka Mazda 626?
Yup that will work as well, with some quick measurement you can get it close enough
great video will, have you thought about a little more light on your videos? they seem just a little dark, not much just a little.
Great tip about tightening on the ground. Just the tip!
Thank you so much for making this video! I just did this on both sides of my Eclipse with your video playing in the background. Only difference is, I had to disconnect the ends of the sway bar because I could not manipulate the shock fork as easy as you. Great tip on torquing the bolts only when the spindle is in stock configuration. I put a jack under the ball joint when torquing everything to spec.
my galant is identical, this helped a ton!
Using a drive up ramp would also make tightening those bolts easier and give more working room.
Damm great tip at the end. I didnt even realize that.
Nice Video. I have a 02 Eclipse GT that is way way way overdue. I get a lot of clunk noise and it rides hard with vibration.
I have the snap-on version as well, my ratchet style of choice very versatile
I have a 95 eclipse. a few years ago my control arms were worn out. I found out that there was a recall on the lower control arms. I brought it to Mitsubishi and had two brand new ones installed for nothing.
What about the ones on my 97 gst spyder? I need to replace both sides lateral. I better replace the straight arms as well.
I got a 99 rag top for free you say
I just bought a 1999 Eclipse GS and took it to a shop to get it looked at to see what kind of work it would need. The guy said that the control arms are bad and being held together by bolts and they at rotting away. I asked how much it would be to have it fixed and they said they don't mess with that stuff since its structural. Does that sound right? Can it actually be fixed?
Sounds wrong
Fantastic!! Great tip on tightening when extended... thanks!
Would this be a reason for squeaking while turning?
I hear a damn grinding noise on take off. I replaced axles. I wonder if it could be the control arms
How would you know if the upper control arm is bad?
What brand control arm did you use?
Thanks for the video, really helpful and easy to understand
set the tires on a brick or 2, or 4x4 post sections, you will get the height and be able to have some more room to work. All the body weight will be on the car and the right height to tighten the bolts to specs, of course, you will need to jack the car a second time to remove the height adjusters, ie bricks or 4X4's. old race car tricks at the track. get er done..(CAUTION) MAKE SURE YOU SET THE BRAKES AND CHOCK THE WHEELS!
or jack up the whole wheel hub and put the arm on... worked for me
Thank you, Thank you for sharing your insight, it is amazing i often thought the same
I heard they have a recall on this time to dig
I try to loosen the nut and seem like it’s not loosening it self up I’m doing the way he doing it and it seem like I just losing it for hours someone help !
Your welcome, glad i could help
And it works almost as good as my $120 snap-on lol not as fine toothed however for the price i would recommend, served me well
That control arm is a nice long chunk of metal. I bet you can make a dozen of tools out of that. I hope you didn't have to return it as a core.
great job amigo
Should always tighten the bolts at rest position but most Technicians don't.I always tighten at rest position though.Audis' are very specific about doing this.This don't matter on bushings that can move like the other control arm that was next to the one replaced in this video.
Great video my friend! Thank you 😊 you have helped me greatly
thanks for making the video! I definitely learned something
Is there a reason why you use electric impact guns instead of air?
Portable cheaper than compressor and works great on lug nuts
Perfect explanation man. Thanks
Thank you for the compliment
Great videos, Will. Keep up the good work.
Very helpfully got the idea thanks for the job well done..
Thank you amigo
Thank you, will do
Good work
Thank you, serves me well
Thank you, your welcome
Great tip. Thanks !!
Whoever disliked this video torqued their control arm bushings in its fully extended position
muchas gracias
You make good videos man!
Great vid, thanks! Learned a lot
Thank you
Thank you sir.
Good stuff
Man your a mind reader lol, my thoughts exactly, added to the pile no core
Good vid Will
That you, glad i could hep
Haloo mr..,key nomber 17 yes..
Great video.
thanks much for that tip, would of made that mistake for sure!
Muy bien 👍
thanx brotha
Maybe he wanted to go unplugged.
Perfect!
Nice
nice vise
snap on makes them and gearwrench
Harbor Freight $15.
Thank you
Thank you
Thank you
Thank you