Focus MK1 - The most thorough oil change in history!
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 5 พ.ค. 2023
- Another blog in the world that is MK1 Focuses... this time I taker you through the most important job you can ever do to any MK1 or car for that matter. I however take it much much further than everyone else!
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#oilchange #fordfocus #ford #mechanic - ยานยนต์และพาหนะ
I always prefer having oil changed on my cars every year. It definitely helps the car and prevents problems.
Absolutely it's the no 1 best thing for an engine. Period
Great step by step. Thanks
glad you liked it!
I've done a fair bit of reading myself regarding the WSS-...A/B/C/D-spec oils.
What I got out of it is that they're all just evolutions of the same A-spec oil and completely backwards compatible with older models. (as in: ypu can put D-spec in an older engine, but not A-spec in a newer engine). Most of the time the bottles list all 4 specs or just A/B or C/D. I haven't found a lot of brands that still offfer the early A or B-spec (I think Liqui Moly does).
The only difference should be he amount of wear-additives. The D doesn't necessarily stand for "diesel", although it was developed with emissions and the rising perfomances of modern diesels in mind. Ford and other brands have been using the same oils for their commercial petrol and diesel engines for a while.
My buddies '13 Transit 2.2TDCI is recommended the same C/D-spec oil as I currently put my 1.6i without any issues so far.
But then again.. There's a lot of conflicting info on the internet, so don't take it as gospel.
My advice for MK1 engines is B or C and not D! Later MK3 Sigmas can take that later as a minimum.
@@usuallyfixingtinkering The 913-series has apparently always been used for both diesel and petrol. I have read that the later C/D-spec oils have more additives regarding diesel engines and later DPF's, but with Ford's "one oil for everything"-model it shouldn't cause issues for earlier petrol models.
One could say B is actually the most optimal, then C. D should be just as good performance wise, but there is some stuff in there that a Sigma engine just doesn't need. So you're technically correct. Which is the best type of correct.
I only use the C/D (brand lists them both) because I can buy it off the shelf and when I changed the timing belt, the head was surprisingly clean, considering my first oil change was a rather dirty one. So I guess it's doing what it's supposed to.
She's almost due for an oil change. I'll be looking to put B or C in it :)
One day, when I get my own driveway I'll be doing my own oil changes to. Nothing like knowing you've got fresh oil in the engine.. (maybe filters, if those are being done to).
Your on the roadside?
@@usuallyfixingtinkering parking spaces right now, sadly. Live In a flat.
@@shanepatrick641I see! I'm quite lucky that I have some space on a shared driveway.
I used the MANNOL MN8103-4 EXTRA GETRIEBEOEL 75 W-90 API GL 4/GL 5 LS for the iB5 gearbox, MANNOL Energy Premium 7908 5w-30 Fully Synthetic Engine Oil for the block.
Monnol are good but their coolent doesn't stick to the typical color code. I got the same strength coolent as the Motorpoint but got in HOAT as it lasts longer. Stuff arrived in green. Needless to say, the car stays at half temp, even on an empty A-Road 🚙☁☁
I always fill my oil filter with oil before installing. It is really important to not run it dry the first start.
Ideally yes but it's difficult because of the filters angle without it coming out, you'd be lucky to get it half full but cranking like this is another way of doing this in a safe manner.
@@usuallyfixingtinkering True that! The angle is sh*t :D I just did the oil on mine and manged to fill it and spill just a couple of drops.
Your filter is in such a better spot than on my zetec
It should be in the same location but angle straight forwards
@@usuallyfixingtinkering Mine's american so that's probably why it's different. The filter is down behind the engine facing towards the firewall. It's a pain
Also I would like to add that you don't need to drain everything because when you drain everything it will take longer to fill everything back up and that could do more wear on critical part: cold start with empty oiling system..
True, but hence why you crank the engine without starting in a low stress low pressure manner.
I do mine with it being 1999 so 24 yrs old on 133k miles every 6 months. That's just oil and filter but do change the plugs every 2 years as well
Same here plugs every two years it eliminates issues
I notice a problem with this brand is that the car heats up way quicker after oil changes states ford spec but prefer volvo spec as a bit thicker oil
Can't say I've ever noticed. As long as it lubricates that's all that I'd be concerned about.
Castrol Magnatec in ST and Mannol in diesel Foci and Fiesta.
Either is perfect, castrol may contain additives but with regular oil changes you'd never know tbh
@@usuallyfixingtinkering change all every 5-6,000mls anyway. Never has any issues with Mannol tbf and stays clean enough.
@@boabm6522 that's the ticket. No.1 most important thing if you could only do one thing to your car :)
The most important maintenance in an ICE motor/engine is oil change.
Ford Boss Me Rich's (an American youtuber and professional technician) words: there's no such thing as excessive oil change. Six months or 5k miles (whichever comes first), good to change. Oil is cheap, engines are not.
My method (on my '02 Focus Zetec 1.8) is the following:
Round1: old oil, w/ Liqui Moly engine flush, 10min idle, drain.
Round2: cheap new oil, new filter, LM engine flush, 10min idle, drain.
Round3: cheap new oil, same filter, no flush, 10min idle, drain.
Round4: Valvoline Synpower FE 5W30, new filter, good to go.
What is your opinion about engine flush/sludge remove?
I never use engine flush. It's too risky, you risk dislodging sludge in the engine and flushing it into a narrow oil channel and blocking everything up end of engine. I've seem a few zetec and sigma end up this way after either lack of changes or use of a engine flush. Engine oil contains detergents that clean hence why iit changes colour
I've heard Scotty Kilmer say that for quite a while, oil is cheap, engines are expensive.. sticks in my mind now 😄
@@usuallyfixingtinkering yep, I've been warned about that risk.
When I bought this Focus, there's a 10W40 oil jug in the trunk. I was like "what the heck is this??". People try to stop oil consumption in their car with thicker oil. Wrong.
Oil consumption comes from oil change abuse. Piston rings don't really like sludge, but a proper way of engine flush is able to solve the root cause of that problem.
After the first flush, no oil consumption in my Focus.
I use 5W30, Mannol or Valvoline or Motorcraft, with the 913D specs.
There's a Meguin oil on the market, "surface protection" 5W30, developed for Ford 913D (A-B-C).
I'll give a try next time.
Would be a problem in the engine if i use 5w-30 but with no wss.... Specification? I mean just a 5w30
It won't do any harm and probably meets the specification :)
@@usuallyfixingtinkering thanks for the answer Greetinks from Greece!
Diesel’s every 6 months.
Yep, and still it comes out black
@@usuallyfixingtinkering I wonder why is that? My Ford Fiesta 1.4 tdci always did that to.. 🤔
@@usuallyfixingtinkering Mine even after 10k km does not goes black. That is argument to have Castrol engine oil with good filter. By the way mine Tddi engine
@@Tadasskr I don't believe castrol oil is better than others, as long as it's to spec I've never been tempted but filters do differ a lot and getting a genuine filter is the best practice in this case