Thought watching tree cutting was addicting. Now I can’t stop watching you build fences. I’ve had a lot of building experience in the past 40 years and watching you is refreshing. You are always looking to strive for more efficiency by thinking smart and building jigs. PS- we need a ton of fencers down here in Louisiana after IDA. Make a trip!
I did 3 things he recommends. I made the contraption to lay out the stringers, I cut the stringer 2 x 4’s after nailing them up on the posts, and I put the pickets right next to each other with no gaps. It went like clockwork, much quicker and easier than ever before! Thank you!
I like the fence holding jig out of metal. I only build a fence once every 10 years or so and make a jig out of a 2x4 then it gets scrapped after the job. But it makes the job 100 times easier when your alone. And the fence looks nice without any measuring.
If you don't mind my asking what is the spacing on the rails and what is the top rail sitting at from the ground? I was taught the rails should be two feet apart, but I just started installing fence and I'm still learning, thanks to your videos I've learned a bit more.
Ive looked all over TH-cam for days now and no one mentions how high should the 4x4s be from the groud? Can you please tell me? Also how to space my railing properly? As far as measurements from either the top of 4x4 or bottom
I was sold this design of fence building by a contractor in Jan. '09 for a 448' run of fence after hurricane Ike took my fences down in '08. After about 3 years the rails started to pull away from the posts at the top rail and I had to keep knocking them back and finally using 4" screws thru the pickets and rails into the posts. But the worst part started at about 5 years there was a noticeable lean to the outside from all of the weight being on the side of the posts. By 2016 some parts of the fence were leaned out 3" at the top. This is the fastest and easiest way to run fence rails but not the best way IMHO.
The reason for you fence leaning has more to do with proper post depth and very little to do with how the rails are ran. We teach a lot in Florida and find the common depth and compaction used to set post is about 60% of what is should be. If this is don’t properly then your post will more than likely break off in a hurricane, we have built fence like this in Florida for many years. It works great until the entire fence is destroyed by high winds.
Wait how can you just gloss over this proto type? I can’t find it on the website. Did you say others use 2x4s as a rail setting tool? I liked the time saved and love the safety aspect.
Im replacing my old fence , one section is a 12ft gap between the 4x4 post but i cant dig to place a post cause there is a huge utility box and also utilities cable and telephone lines underground, what form do you recommend to install railings ?
Do you not treat the cuts on the rails Shawn ? I always treat any cuts on pressure treated wood as here in the UK at least, the treatment never goes all the way through the wood. Love your channel by the way 👍
I'm nervous about buying 8ft 2x4 rails to use between 4x4 posts. Each 2x4 only hangs on to the post by 1 and 3/4 inches. What if my post isn't perfectly set?
If you can set them dead on 8 ft. on center, it won't be a problem. But as most "legs" or "sides" of a yard fence are not an even multiple of 8 ft., i would measure and set even sections, will most likely come out to 7'6"-8'. Then cut rails like he did, with a saw set 1-1/2" deep. Provides a cleaner look, with all the sections being evenly spaced, and gives you some wiggle room if a post is set an inch one way or the other, but the difference is not visible to the eye. ex. 84' run Instead of (10) 8' long sections, and one 4' long, divide 84/11=7.63 7.63 feet= 7 ft. 7.5 inches (7 ft. 7-9/16 in.) if you want to get specific (.63 feet= .63x12=7.56 inches, round to .5 inch) (.56 inches= .56x16= 8.96/16 inch, round to 9/16 inch) Double check measurements= 7 ft.= 84 in. 84 + 7.5 =91.5 in. 91 in. x 11 (sections) = 1006.5 in. 1006.5 in./12= 83.875 ft. (83 ft. 10.5 inch) We lost 1.5 inch over the course of 84 ft. That's pretty dang close and will not be noticeable to the eye. It's a lot of math, but I'd rather do 5 mins of math in the shade rather than have to pull a post out of the ground because I set it 1 inch too far to the left. Even on legs I measured to be an even multiple of 8 ft., I add one extra section. Can never go wrong with posts set closer together, it builds a stronger fence.
We use cedar pickets, with cedar rails but you can use p.t pine rails with cedar pickets but we prefer cedar. Cedar is great because it has natural oils in it that pressure treatment tries to imitate. Wish you luck with your project.
@@mrfenceacademy rather then face nailing the horizontal 2x4s to the posts like in this video, my company runs the 2x4s between posts and tow nails them to the 4x4s. That allows the pickets to sit flush on the 4x4 fir the pickets that are inline with the posts. Your approach looks way faster and easier. Wondering if we should switch it up..
I like the idea and I understand making money off of products, but... Drive a screw in (1.5" sticking out) at where you believe the bottom of the 2x4 will rest. Hang one side of 2x4 on said screw. Go to other side and line 2x4 up where it should go, and fasten. Go back to "hanging" side, line up 2x4, and fasten, using the screw used to hang 2x4. If that side of the post will be visible, use some quick clamps. Once you get the first section, you can drive your "hanging" screw at the bottom of the 2x4 you just installed, slightly toward the direction you're working. "bump" the 2x4 against the once you just installed to minimize the gap and maximize the meat of the post to screw into. I am also biased to using screws for the frame rather than nails. Also, depending on the style of fence you're building, the vertical space in-between the rails may need to be different. I recommend cutting a scrap piece of wood to the spacing you need, and use it to mark, or hold rails against each other for correct spacing. Use the "sticks/runners/blocks" your posts came banded to if you don't have any drops lying around. We usually cut a new one for each job, from a scrap piece from the previous job. Not the most efficient, maybe we should save the ones we cut and paint them red or something so we don't lose them. Math: 72" picket with 1 inch gap at bottom, 2.5" gap from top of top rail to top of picket, bottom of bottom rail 4" off the ground. 72+1=73 73-2.5-4-10.5 (3x3x.5 rails)= 56 56/2 (space between rails)=28" cut a board 28" and use it as a spacing block
If you use 16' long rails you'll have a stronger fence, you'll get less sagging in your rails, it's less times you're handling materials and less cutting.
We do have those services. We sell Tools through www.mrfencetools.com And training through Mr Fence Academy installation and business training. We have a Facebook group with my info Mr Fence Academy. Website for that will be soon.
I don’t feel like you should be cutting your rails. Also if you set to grade you don’t have to cut the top of your post. And if you measure your rails you should not be cutting them. That is a waste of time and material. Some of your ways I may agree with, but I don’t like cutting as it takes up more time in the process plus the clean up when it can all be avoided. Just my thoughts and opinion.
Thought watching tree cutting was addicting. Now I can’t stop watching you build fences. I’ve had a lot of building experience in the past 40 years and watching you is refreshing. You are always looking to strive for more efficiency by thinking smart and building jigs. PS- we need a ton of fencers down here in Louisiana after IDA. Make a trip!
Thank you
I did 3 things he recommends. I made the contraption to lay out the stringers, I cut the stringer 2 x 4’s after nailing them up on the posts, and I put the pickets right next to each other with no gaps. It went like clockwork, much quicker and easier than ever before! Thank you!
I put a temp nail 3.5 inches down from my top string line for the 2x4 to rest on then back mark the rail , same for the bottom.
I like the fence holding jig out of metal. I only build a fence once every 10 years or so and make a jig out of a 2x4 then it gets scrapped after the job. But it makes the job 100 times easier when your alone. And the fence looks nice without any measuring.
Man, that was dope!
If you don't mind my asking what is the spacing on the rails and what is the top rail sitting at from the ground? I was taught the rails should be two feet apart, but I just started installing fence and I'm still learning, thanks to your videos I've learned a bit more.
It depends on the reveal of the picket above the post. 7” reveal equals 27”, 54” and 66” out of the ground
Ive looked all over TH-cam for days now and no one mentions how high should the 4x4s be from the groud? Can you please tell me? Also how to space my railing properly? As far as measurements from either the top of 4x4 or bottom
Love this tool but my only issue is what happens when you have a decorative top posts?
Is it better to nail the rail on the outside or inside of the post?
Very good video!
Thank you very much!
Those cars in the back 😂
what size nail should be used to attach rails to posts?
What a nifty tool. Why do you prefer PT over redwood for rails?
I was sold this design of fence building by a contractor in Jan. '09 for a 448' run of fence after hurricane Ike took my fences down in '08. After about 3 years the rails started to pull away from the posts at the top rail and I had to keep knocking them back and finally using 4" screws thru the pickets and rails into the posts. But the worst part started at about 5 years there was a noticeable lean to the outside from all of the weight being on the side of the posts. By 2016 some parts of the fence were leaned out 3" at the top. This is the fastest and easiest way to run fence rails but not the best way IMHO.
The reason for you fence leaning has more to do with proper post depth and very little to do with how the rails are ran. We teach a lot in Florida and find the common depth and compaction used to set post is about 60% of what is should be. If this is don’t properly then your post will more than likely break off in a hurricane, we have built fence like this in Florida for many years. It works great until the entire fence is destroyed by high winds.
Wait how can you just gloss over this proto type? I can’t find it on the website. Did you say others use 2x4s as a rail setting tool? I liked the time saved and love the safety aspect.
What size nails should be used for the rails and pickets?
How long were your stringers running from the previous post? What was the section length prior to the gate??
not sure
Any recommendations for which brand has the most reliable nailgun?
Project Farm YT channel
Im replacing my old fence , one section is a 12ft gap between the 4x4 post but i cant dig to place a post cause there is a huge utility box and also utilities cable and telephone lines underground, what form do you recommend to install railings ?
Do you not treat the cuts on the rails Shawn ? I always treat any cuts on pressure treated wood as here in the UK at least, the treatment never goes all the way through the wood. Love your channel by the way 👍
No that is something we have never done.
This guy is good.
I'm nervous about buying 8ft 2x4 rails to use between 4x4 posts. Each 2x4 only hangs on to the post by 1 and 3/4 inches. What if my post isn't perfectly set?
We have been doing it this way for nearly 30 years it’s just not a problem
If you can set them dead on 8 ft. on center, it won't be a problem. But as most "legs" or "sides" of a yard fence are not an even multiple of 8 ft., i would measure and set even sections, will most likely come out to 7'6"-8'. Then cut rails like he did, with a saw set 1-1/2" deep. Provides a cleaner look, with all the sections being evenly spaced, and gives you some wiggle room if a post is set an inch one way or the other, but the difference is not visible to the eye.
ex. 84' run
Instead of (10) 8' long sections, and one 4' long, divide 84/11=7.63
7.63 feet= 7 ft. 7.5 inches (7 ft. 7-9/16 in.) if you want to get specific
(.63 feet= .63x12=7.56 inches, round to .5 inch)
(.56 inches= .56x16= 8.96/16 inch, round to 9/16 inch)
Double check measurements=
7 ft.= 84 in.
84 + 7.5 =91.5 in.
91 in. x 11 (sections) = 1006.5 in.
1006.5 in./12= 83.875 ft. (83 ft. 10.5 inch)
We lost 1.5 inch over the course of 84 ft. That's pretty dang close and will not be noticeable to the eye.
It's a lot of math, but I'd rather do 5 mins of math in the shade rather than have to pull a post out of the ground because I set it 1 inch too far to the left. Even on legs I measured to be an even multiple of 8 ft., I add one extra section. Can never go wrong with posts set closer together, it builds a stronger fence.
I center my post at 93” then jus cut like he is
If building a cedar picket fence, do you want the rails to be treated pine or cedar?
We use cedar pickets, with cedar rails but you can use p.t pine rails with cedar pickets but we prefer cedar. Cedar is great because it has natural oils in it that pressure treatment tries to imitate. Wish you luck with your project.
What is that magical X-men tool called I'm very interested
Where can I find that jig
www.mrfencetools.com
I run my spreaders between the 4x4s for a cleaner/ flush look. Am I doing it wrong?
Not sure what your talking about
@@mrfenceacademy rather then face nailing the horizontal 2x4s to the posts like in this video, my company runs the 2x4s between posts and tow nails them to the 4x4s. That allows the pickets to sit flush on the 4x4 fir the pickets that are inline with the posts.
Your approach looks way faster and easier. Wondering if we should switch it up..
Nah I like that method also
@@codysmith1234567 No
No, do not change
Do you have a tool if your runners are in between the 4X4
No we don’t recommend that type of construction.
We almost exclusively set metal posts with self tapping screws now. Wont sell the wood posts because they warp like crazy here.
Funny I bought a 2X2 cut into chunks measured and screwed on the side of the posts so could do my own fence. Gald to know think like pros.
Where can I purchase the metal tool for the railing?
Www.mrfencetools.com
Good question
I like the idea and I understand making money off of products, but...
Drive a screw in (1.5" sticking out) at where you believe the bottom of the 2x4 will rest. Hang one side of 2x4 on said screw. Go to other side and line 2x4 up where it should go, and fasten. Go back to "hanging" side, line up 2x4, and fasten, using the screw used to hang 2x4. If that side of the post will be visible, use some quick clamps. Once you get the first section, you can drive your "hanging" screw at the bottom of the 2x4 you just installed, slightly toward the direction you're working. "bump" the 2x4 against the once you just installed to minimize the gap and maximize the meat of the post to screw into.
I am also biased to using screws for the frame rather than nails.
Also, depending on the style of fence you're building, the vertical space in-between the rails may need to be different. I recommend cutting a scrap piece of wood to the spacing you need, and use it to mark, or hold rails against each other for correct spacing. Use the "sticks/runners/blocks" your posts came banded to if you don't have any drops lying around. We usually cut a new one for each job, from a scrap piece from the previous job. Not the most efficient, maybe we should save the ones we cut and paint them red or something so we don't lose them.
Math:
72" picket with 1 inch gap at bottom, 2.5" gap from top of top rail to top of picket, bottom of bottom rail 4" off the ground.
72+1=73
73-2.5-4-10.5 (3x3x.5 rails)= 56
56/2 (space between rails)=28"
cut a board 28" and use it as a spacing block
If you use 16' long rails you'll have a stronger fence, you'll get less sagging in your rails, it's less times you're handling materials and less cutting.
Just simply not all true we have tested this thought several times. Thank you
I agree. Just altenate every other rail as 8 and 16.
Educational and impressive. Question if you don’t mind. Installing pickets should you start on higher or lower ground?
If your right handed run right to left
This tool applies to a somewhat straight landscapes...
Wouldn’t it just rest on the tool at an angle?
MR FENCE ACADEMY, IM NEW TO YOUR CHANNEL, CAN I PAY FOR YOUR TRAINING, DO YOU HOLD CLASSES
We do have those services. We sell
Tools through www.mrfencetools.com
And training through Mr Fence Academy installation and business training. We have a Facebook group with my info Mr Fence Academy. Website for that will be soon.
I don’t feel like you should be cutting your rails. Also if you set to grade you don’t have to cut the top of your post. And if you measure your rails you should not be cutting them. That is a waste of time and material. Some of your ways I may agree with, but I don’t like cutting as it takes up more time in the process plus the clean up when it can all be avoided. Just my thoughts and opinion.
You were holding the edg of the 2x4 and nailing, shame
You should screw the rails not nail
Screws have failed for us in the past nails work better