Promaster Van Build | Ep3 | How to Install Wood Framing
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 22 มิ.ย. 2021
- Link for my previous framing video • Van Conversion Part 2 ...
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Episodes of this Van Build:
Episode 15 • Promaster Van Build | ...
Episode 14 • Promaster Van Build | ...
Episode 13 • Promaster Van Build | ...
Episode 12 youtu.be5NGXpMDMgqc
Episode 11 • Promaster Van Build | ...
Episode 10 • Promaster Van Build | ...
Episode 9 • Promaster Van Build | ...
Episode 8 • Promaster Van Build | ...
Episode 7 • Promaster Van Build | ...
Episode 6 • Promaster Van Build | ...
Episode 5 • Promaster Van Build | ...
Episode 4 • Promaster Van Build | ...
Episode 3 • Promaster Van Build | ...
Episode 2 • Promaster Van Build | ...
Episode 1 • Promaster Van Build | ...
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Vancillary Headliner www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07...
The swivel adapters www.swivelsrus.com/
Max Air Fan amzn.to/3d2XlRn
Dicor Lap Sealant amzn.to/36Agrx3
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Do you worry about rust from drilling straight in the metal? Just curious. This looks way easier to do than other ways I’ve seen people build theirs.
A number of people have asked about this....I recommend watching the whole series, then you will see how I spray foam insulate the entire van with closed cell insulation creating a moisture barrier. It can not rust! I also don't understand the logic when people ask about this. They say drilling screws in the metal will make it rust so usually their solution is to DRILL plus nuts into the metal using much larger wholes. Typically the argument is that they add spray paint before inserting the plus nut but i don't see how metal on metal rubbing against each other isn't going to rub that spray paint off right away. But anyway, I recommend watching the whole series because the spray foam insulation takes away any concerns of rust which needs moisture to develop.
@@BuildingVanLife thank you for the education. I will watch the entire series. Thanks again 😃
@@chrisoneil9798cool. Also just realized this is a video from the previous van i built. I have a newer van I built and whole new series on that one too. Here is the framing video from the new van. I think I altered and improved things a little more on the newer van. th-cam.com/video/3P_TEdmfNAs/w-d-xo.html
THANK YOU!! For being so specific with what is needed! Great instructions, Thanks!
Great video, I bookmarked it for future reference when I get my build going. I really appreciate it.
Glad it helped!
@@BuildingVanLife yeah man, you wouldn’t believe how many people just skim over the important parts, like how to frame around the ceiling fans.
Super informative
Just Bought me a Promaster 2500 136WB. Going to make an attempt to self build with the help of a family member… but my goodness you make it look soo easy!!! Awesome work!!! Will definitely be using your videos as a guide!!
Awesome! My first build was a 2500 136 wb. It’s a good one to start with!
Thank you for all your videos, really appreciate the content!
Thank you!
I like you video tutorial pace. It’s not very overwhelming. Thanks a lot!
Thank you
That’s clever putting those pieces of wood around the fan. I’ll definitely put that into consideration on my build!
Thanks. It helps a lot once you start the ceiling
Hey man, loving your videos! Im currently building out the same Promaster, my first van build, and refer to your vids often. Ill def have a different interior layout to suit my tastes, but basically copying your framework, so just wanted to say thanks for that!
Very cool thanks for watching
Excellent video. It’s the first one of yours I discovered. Subscribed. Thanks
Thank you very much
Great info!
coolio! thanks for the tips!
well done!
Thank you!
right on man, so helpful. Your video's are like the perfect vibe to just chill out to, sit on the couch and just binge and learn, they're not overly technical, good voice, chill music selection, sunny socal backdrops don't hurt either. You're in San diego?
Thank you I appreciate it! I'm in Orange County just north of San Diego
@@BuildingVanLife right on, ofcourse that makes sense. For a second, I was like, is Carey Hart doing van build video's now lol :P
Baltic birch plywood would be plenty strong, the same as this pine but with more dimensional stability.
Also flexible.
Thanks for the video. I am an Orange County native living in Florida! I am struggling getting 1 1/4" self tapping drywall screws through the front furring strip that goes over the headliner. I have popped out the wire clips and pushed the wire forward. I left the headliner clips in since they are very thin. I have taken off enough wood from the strip so that, if I can get the dog gone thing screwed in, it will be fine. Maybe I don't have enough brute strength to push the furring strip up while I drill. I need to hit the gym more! Any tips?
Are you sure you are using self tapping screws? It shouldn’t be that difficult, and are you using pine like I did? I like to use it because it’s a soft and flexible wood.
Great video I like your framing on this one, compared to other one using clips covering the column “great call my man “ I’m about to frame ceiling & walls u been a great help and inspiration for me as I watch your videos thanks for your time helping out others one question how far apart are screws attached to the beams about 6 of them ? Did u Pre drill the holes so it don’t crack
Maybe every 8 inches or so. I like to use the 1x3 pine bc it’s a soft wood so it won’t crack and you won’t have to pre drill it
@@BuildingVanLife gotcha 🤙🏼bye the way do u do any side work ? Other than your van conversions I’m just wondering I might need assistance down the road I’m in Southern California as well
Absolutely great work!! Couple of questions: why did you choose to use L connectors instead of using rivenuts? (More questions are coming on a different videos). Thanks
Because it’s just as strong and 10x easier to work with
Hey man, love seeing your work and these videos are super helpful!
Quick question. I see some other DIY’ers and upfitters using cross nuts to avoid drilling into the frame. Looks like they’r all concerned about the metal shavings and the potential for rust. Do you see many shavings coming off with this method? Not sure what your thoughts were on the issue. Thanks!
Pretty sure they have to drill to insert the plus nut so I dont see that as the reasons to use plus nuts. They are stronger but more work to install them. I haven’t had any problems doing it This way
Any chance you have floor plans for this promaster?
Love the video. Inspiring. Also what brand safety shoes are those? Lol
Those are special issue California boots
@5:30 How do you change the marker lights if one of the bulbs go out doing it that way?
the one in the front are changed from the exterior
When configuring the van online from dodge, do i choose the "no uplift" model?
Yes I believe so. You want a blank cargo can.
For driving the self-tapping screws into the ceiling are you using a drill or an impact driver?
I use an impact driver which I think is much better but they will work with a regular drill too
Can you tell me what size self tapping screws you used when screwing in the board above the driver area? We cant seem to find the right size
I think I used 1 1/4. Just make sure you don’t choose one longer that would go through the roof.
Possibly 1 5/8th. Just hold the screws up to the furring strip you are using against the steep cross beams to check for correct length
What is that saw that you used to cut the 1/8th inch off the top pieces? Also I noticed the self drilling screws in the purple box said drywall screws are those the same thing as self tapping screws?
I used the table saw with the guide set so it just took off an 1/8th. Yes they are same as self tapping. They are designed to go from drywall into metal studs so they work great for wood to metal too
Awesome, thanks! What nail gun/Gage are you using? And last question what has been your favorite method or easiest method you’ve used to hold up your bed?
@@veronicaalcala7825 I’m using my small finish nail gun with 18 gauge 1”1/4 nails. The bed will be in an upcoming episode. I build it out of 2x3s
great video.... i have a question , did you used 1x2 to frame the entire van?
Thanks. They are pine 1x3’s
Great videos! Question about the two parts bulging out. Is it an option to cut them away with a metal saw. Just the furthest sticking out parts?
They are structural for the van I believe. It wouldn’t be a good idea.
Even if you leave the beam but just cut out the tip of the bulges?
Pretty risky. It’s engineered that way for a reason. It’s the framing for the sliding door. Even on the opposite side bc some vans have dual sliding doors so they have the framing on all vans even if they don’t have two sliding doors
Did you have LED lights on any of the ceiling support beams? I have a 2020 Promaster and it came with a string of LED lights that are wired into the van and go across 2 of the support beams. I am trying to find instructions from someone who has removed them.
It’s optional equipment on the promaster. I didn’t have them on this one but I had them on a previous one. Just follow the wire down past the switch and unplug it and throw them away
Do you have a SKU number for the actual 1x4's you use in framing? My local HD can't seem to find what you use... Thanks
@@idostuff-nf9pc no I don’t. I think the main ones on the walls are 1x3 pine
The reason why the center lower his because you stand and the top with your body weight to install the ventilation
not a chance my body weight can bend the frame of the van. Bending the sheet metal yes, but the frame will not bend at all, impossible.
Great videos. Curious why you didn't use plus nuts in your build like so many folks.
I’ve thought about it but the screws hold everything up without a problem so never had a need for them.
The plus nut thing has become a monkey see / monkey do technique over the last few years. Using them dramatically increases the time it takes to fasten things to the van frame and there is always the potential that they spin out under torque and cannot be used again in that spot. They are very strong, but like many van building techniques it may be overkill unless they're meant to secure a particularly heavy section.
@@TheScalawag completely agree. I actually have a new framing video coming out this afternoon on my new van. Still not using plus nuts.
wont the holes drilled rust eventually?
should i use plus nuts or is self tapper sufficient?
Plus nuts is just a larger hole to
Rust. I’ve found with the spray foam insulation I use in the next episode I minimize any moisture created to cause rust
@Alluvium inc ok thank you for the info. I might do a combination of screws and plus/rivnuts on my build. Looking to buy a ldv deliver 9 oneday and build it nice. Your videos help alot with how to actually do that:)
What type of wood did you use for the framing?
they are 1x3 pine from home depot
Any directions with just screws no glue?
I noticed you don’t put insulation in the ceiling tracks under the framing. Do you think it’s not really necessary?
Also everyone talks about metal shavings.. are there less shavings when screwing versus drilling?
I don’t thinks it’s necessary. I’m not even sure you can fit anything in there. I think the screws make significantly less. When you drill you can see them flying around. I haven’t seen any shavings at all when I use a screw. I’m sure there are some but I haven’t seen them really. There is only so much you can do about them at the end of the day.
Did your ceiling in the back over the door come down with the glue you used due to the heat? I followed your technique and the boards came down due to heat hitting the roof.
No it didn’t. It can’t. Check out how I finished it in the next episodes. The walls and the shelf above the rear door locks it in so it can’t come down even if the glue released.
@@BuildingVanLife cool I'm actually finishing the ceiling now took a break. Will definitely be checking out the other videos so helpful. 👍
Looks like you used #6 self drilling screws,is that correct.I was planning to use #8 is that overkill?
that's correct. I think either will work fine
as long as it's not splitting the wood
Ok but you never have problem with #6 screws holding. Basically I planned to use 6s after watching your videos and someone told me they are not strong enough so now that’s in my head. So I just wanted some reassurance from you since I’m halfway through my framing !
@@jordanmccann3690 I have never once had a screw pull out. Never
You are the man !!great build Thank you
What kind of screws were used?
I show it right at the 2:00 mark. I use 1” 1/4 on the ceiling and 1” 5/8th on the walls
What kind of glue used?
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What about Thermal bridging? lots os wood touching the metal that is not insulated behind which means these areas will all have thermal bridging.
they will all be encased in the spray foam insulation which you will see in the later episodes. I've never had any issues.
I'm not sure about the idea of using drywall screws to hold cabinet weights, maybe stainless steel self tapping screws might be a better option if not using ribnuts.
Did you watch the hole video? I didn’t use drywall screws. I used self tapping metal to wood screws. They are designed for exactly this purpose….
The screws you recommended are self tapping drywall to metal screws. My concern is the screws being too brittle or rusting.
What length screw?
1” 1/4 on ceiling. 1” 5/8th on the walls
I am estimating costs right now. How much did this cost you roughly in materials? $1k?
For the framing? Much less than that
Wow you got all thumbs up and no 👎. Awesome!
Thank you
@@BuildingVanLife since I subscribe to you Alluvium and you do answer ?’s unlike some others, I have one other question. What type of plywood are you putting on the top (inside of course),? Are you using 1/4” plywood since it’s lighter? Thanks!
@@rangerider51 are you referring to the subfloor plywood? For that I’m using 3/4 sanded plywood. Needs to be thicker on the floor or it will warp. Just about everywhere else I’m using 1/2 sanded plywood except for the shower walls which is 1/4 non sanded. The sanded is much more expensive but much nicer.
@@BuildingVanLife I was talking about the roof. Are you using 1/2” wood for the top?
@@rangerider51 The ceiling? I don't use plywood on the ceiling or for any of the furring strips, it's not strong enough, I use 1x3 pine which is actually only 3/4 by 2 1/2
Is this the video I'm supposed to watch I could not find another
No this one th-cam.com/video/fIn06_WSbZ0/w-d-xo.htmlsi=CSAQNFhI7hQtmJfY
No insulation shown here.
Are there ways to insulate, at least somewhat, a van like this without cladding it in so much wood? Does anyone know if there are videos where someone has lined the inside of their Promaster or Transit, etc. with something besides 2x4s, and sheathed it like a *house* is built out? I am thinking that since living space is precious in a van down to the INCH, one would want to insulate with something like foam and then that thin paneling that showers are lined with, or even the old '70s way with carpeting or something? I know carpeting could get moldy, but maybe something 100% cotton or wool, that would "breathe" (absorb the water humans put out by respirating, and then evaporate that same water during the day)?
I'm starting a van build and I actually had a fire because of the insulation sitting in the back so it gave me a huge lesson right off to not do anything flammable! I'll be doing a video about it in the next few months ✌🏼
I swear I'm having Mandela effect, was this video edited recently? You talk about an actual size 1x4 for the side walls then install that first from what I remember. In that video you read the sku of the 1x4 from home depot. What happened to that part?
I have built 5 vans so I have a few videos on the same topic and I don’t always do it the same way
Plywood is better than this wood! it will never crack. This wood you installed will split sunner or later
idk i think there is a lot of wasted space doing it this way.
I have another video from a few years ago where I maximized every inch. You can check that video out. But then you end up having a bunch of bump outs. For me it wasn’t worth it to have the bump outs just to save 2 inches of width in the van
@@BuildingVanLife that’s fair 👏🏼👏🏼
All these hippies turning these work vans into mobile homes have made the price skyrocket. Can't you guys leave something for us common folk that want to work an honest days work?
screwing directly into the sheet metal? without rust proofing the holes? by the ocean? when you could have just used rivnuts? yikes.
looking forward to seeing the van you build
@@BuildingVanLife building it as we speak. Without self tapping screws.
@@BuildingVanLife have you had any issues doing it the way you do. I like the way you built yours. It’s easy to get paralyzed by so many opinions. The plus it’s are a pain. Have you had problems with the self tapping screws and the van rusting?
@@russellgay8801 none ever despite what the experts above say. Especially when you spray foam insulate like I do, it creates a vapor barrier.
This is a horrible job
Damn I knew it
@@nabnab9lol
Do you have any experience using plywood as wood furring strips? How about marine grade plywood? Or Baltic Birch plywood? Or are you just making a comment from your gut? How about the fact that you are using frigging drywall screws into sheet metal? Lets talk about THAT. By the way, if you wanted to make your cross beams even, then you simply placed shims or spacers BEHIND the furring strips. Its much easier than attempting to cut down a piece of pine with a table saw as if it was a thickness planer. If you had attached them with a better fastener, this would not be a big problem, but you did use crappy drywall screws after all. By the way, if you ever want to be taken seriously doing a build, wear appropriate shoes and attire while working with big power tools. I have never had a contractor working on my house wearing flip flops or sandals.
Super common in CA but yes not what I grew up with 😂
Nothing wrong with planing a piece of wood with the table saw at full extension 😆
Although a bit critical on the sandals remark… It’s his van.
Also last I checked drywall is pretty heavy, nothing wrong with drywall screws.