As an infant in the learning curve of van building and an almost-senior lady doing something so far out of my comfort/knowledge zone, your video (which I've watched 3 times so far) has been so helpful! I'd appreciate a parts list so that I'm sure I'm purchasing what you're suggesting. I've never heard anything but the plus nut/riv nut route with is more complicated and more expensive, so your approach is something much more easily achieved by me. Your tips are worth their weight in gold! Thank you so much for sharing your knowledge in detail! Tremendous video!
Thank you! Happy to hear that my videos have been helpful! That’s why I started this channel in the first place!!! I agree with you about the plus nuts, those are probably a stronger option but more complicated and expensive. Self tapping screws with construction adhesive is plenty strong and in my opinion easier to install! Good luck on your build! And congrats on stepping out of your comfort zone and learning something new!!! Cheers 🤘🏻
I keep going back and forth with nut/riv too. Is there any other benefit to riv, like rust prevention and removal? I am doing your video this weekend 😬😁
@@suzettecsutton The biggest benefits to riv nuts is it’s strength and remove-ability. It’s cons are that it’s more expensive and more difficult to install!
I have watched 100’s of framing vids over the past 6 months... this is by far the best video I have watched!! Very detailed! 👍 I now feel confident that I can do this!! Thank you very much for posting this video!
Finally! A fellow Carpenter that speaks Promaster, lol! Been going crazy for a month trying to teach myself electrical/solar systems so I could have my order list & price together and then I went looking for framing/insulation videos... uugghh. Everything was either sprinters and transits, even bought one of the so-called DIY guides; CRAP (IMO). Was about to just freestyle it when the time came but I lucked up across this video and the wood/screws heavens opened up to me, lol. Appreciation from a career carpenter (almost 20 yrs and I'm 38). This really helped me wrap my mind around what specifically needed to be done as a frame and finish carpenter. Much love and keep these videos coming! My new go to van-build channel! Definitely do an exclusive on the shower because I designed for a 32x24 right behind the driver seat as well... #weirdscience
Comments like these make my day! The main reason I started this channel is because in a lot of videos I noticed people would skip over the difficult or awkward parts of the van and I would be left figuring it out myself. Also people try make their van build videos a cinematic film and don’t really teach you anything lol. I’m so glad you enjoyed my video! I hope the rest of my videos have been helpful too. Good luck on your build!!!
I agree. I like all your build videos. They are solid educational and informative explaining the details. Leave the cinematography for the finished tour IMO. I’m going to to be using all your videos for my Prom Master build too. Keep up the great work!
Just bought a used ram promaster and im using your videos as a guide to get my build going. Your the best i have found for people learning to do this for themselves. You are totally awesome! Keep it coming.
I'll echo the comment below about how well made your framing video is. I was thinking about ripping plywood for framing and you've convinced me. Very well done sir and I'll continue following your progress.
This video has excellent instructions for framing. I have watched hundreds on this topic. Your method with the 2x6 at the ceiling is the best for using wood.
Well, I hope you show the close up in the future what you have in you hand screw wise and how and where you are placing it that is what I want to see to make sure I know where to drill. Yes beginner people need the detail where the screw is going into the metal. Fear of screwing up pun lol good video your the only one I have found showing details in framing. Thank you
I did show the products I used in the beginning of the video! I used 1-7/16” wood to metal self tapping screws and construction adhesive. As far as the placement of the screws, it is fairly straight forward! There’s about a 10% chance your miss since there’s random gaps and holes in the structure, and if you do find one of those it’s simple enough to back the screw out and find a different spot! Hope that helps!
Best build video I've seen to date. I'm building a Promaster, and have been scratching my head so far, on how to do tricky parts. The passenger side, behind seat, has me freaked out.
This is great! I’m not a builder but I’m a teacher and I can tell you that your teaching is excellent! It all makes sense to me and now I’m not afraid to do it. Many people have skills and abilities, but to teach those skills to others is an art. Can’t wait to get started!
Thank you so much for your videos. They have been the best tools in my chest. I'm converting a 2021 Promaster 159 and you have so many great ideas. A real craftsman. Just getting to the ship lap is a real chore but you have made my project more enjoyable, since I've seen it done before. I had a neighbor think that all this was in my head and I'm freestyling. I gave you a big plug. You deserve it. Thank you Thank You THANK YOU!
Wow, comments like these is what it’s all about! Thank YOU so much!! And I feel you on the shiplap part, there’s so much prep work that goes into just getting walls and ceilings in haha. But makes it that much more rewarding!! My whole family thought I was in over my head when I started my first van. I had NO experience, but I learned so much and really really enjoyed it. SO REWARDING! Haha good luck on your build!!!
Notification bell gang!!! Thanks for watching. Links to everything in this van is in the description. If you found this helpful, LIKE THIS VIDEO AND LEAVE A COMMENT! That is the best way to help my channel out!
@@sheri4673 I use the kreg pocket screws for soft woods at 1-1/4 since it’s all going into 3/4” wood. They come in packs of 100. I’d think 2-3 of those will be enough
Thank you for your detailed video. I just got into a Promaster 2500 136 WB recently… I’ve been kicking around a lot of ideas on how to install the support system / structure. This is a huge help.
This is THE most helpful video I've found. Thank you. One request.....add simple added helpful guides like: "I ended up needing ___ linear inches of 2X6 for the upper, angled panels" Thank you
Nice video with plenty of helpful tips. I do find it interesting how one builder will only use plus nuts and paint all firing strips with Killz while others choose to just use raw wood and drill straight into the van. I guess it really comes down to personal choice. Thanks for sharing.
Thank you! You’re Exactly right though. One of the most common questions I get is why I don’t use the plus nuts. I used self tapping screws and construction adhesive for my first van two years ago and it’s still working out great! I also find it more more efficient and less time consuming! Thanks for the comment. Cheers!
@Cascade Yoga Co. Depends on how meticulous you want to be. I chose to use rivnuts, painted all drilled out holes with auto primer/paint, and used mildew resistant Kilz on both sides of all lumber. Seemed to make the most sense to me.
Very glad I found this video. I was just staring at my walls and wondering what I was going to do for framing. I think I am going to completely replicate your process. I really love the upper 2x6 idea and the way you framer the bed sleep area. Thanks!!!
You’ve just got another subscriber. I’m now binge watching all your videos!!! I hope they are in order of building out the Van. As I’m not experienced but my Dad has building experience finishing 3 basement builds from scratch. So he and I hope to tackle a Van build project. Not sure where or how to start. Framing, electrical, plumbing ... as this is definitely different from a house.
These are great tips I need to know because I want so bad to be able to do this on my van by myself & I have zero carpentry skills but all the desire to learn & get to work. Being almost completely paralyzed from the waist below I am going to have to get creative myself.
Very well done! Pretty much every build I see puts untreated / unsealed wood in the floors, walls, and ceilings. You don’t want to do that. There WILL be moisture and that plus raw wood in an enclosed space can lead to mildew (usually) and mold (rarely). Good idea is to seal (primer or sealer) all the raw wood before installing it.
great video!! anything to be gained comfort and noise wise by filling by the ribs with foam or stuffing insulation in them ? i assume you are using flat board style insul behind the open parts of the walls? thnx,
Becarful filling the rips and stuff with spray foam ir that "great stuff" insulation. if you spray too much it'll start to expand, since the outside of the van is just thin sheet metal, it can warp the outside!! don't want that to happen!! I have a video where I show my insulation techniques!!
@@AnkeneyVanBuilds was quoted C$1200 , US$ 950 to foam a promaster 136" high roof walls, roof, and backdoors , does that sound reasonable to you? appreciate your help, i'm in the logo'd apparel business, can supply anything u need at dealer cost.
@@joeymyopic I spent close to $700 on doing the insulation myself with the 3M thinsulate! And that’s awesome. Send me an email @ ankeneyvanbuilds@gmail.com with some info about the logos!
Does it really matter on the ceiling boards if I’m using 3/4 pine I know u mentioned 1/2 not sure ? if I have to trim them down I’m using fascia 2/6s it’s actually 1-3/8 thick does it matter upper top so where they meet I’m actually building it right now after watching your videos which is very inspiring well explain your doing a awesome job thanks for your time that u invest
Thanks for the video! You attached the half inch plywood studs with self-tapping screws. I've seen many other van builders use Riv-nuts. I would prefer to use self-tappers as it seems easier. I would like to know if you've had any issues with any of them coming loose over time as you drive your van. Appreciate any insight or guidance you can provide. Thanks!
Thanks so much for the reply! One more question I was hoping you could answer. The van I purchased has a floor made of MDF. The MDF will be covered with Vinyl and I will be screwing cabinets and other fixtures into the floor, but before I do is there any type of waterproofing solution you would recommend. e.g. Thompson's water seal? Thanks!!
Hey, love this build, it’s been super helpful framing out my Promaster. I’m curious why you frame the ceiling along the beams instead of just screwing straights into the beams and adding framing at the front and the back? That’s what I am planning on and curious if there is any reason I would need the extra frames along the existing beams.
Great question. Since this was going to be a tongue and groove ceiling the framining needed to be perpendicular to have enough places to attach the ceiling. But the vans that I’ve used wall panels for I run the framing boards front to back!
Hi, Just to have an idea of floor to ceiling dimensions, how tall are you? Out of all the van framing videos I have watched, your framing method seem to be the best I've seen. Thanks for posting.
Hi! I am 6’2”. So with the 1/2” framing and the 3/4” ceiling boards I still have about an inch of clearance! I’m glad you enjoyed the video! Hope it helps you with yours
Awesome bro, thank you! Me and my girl just started our van build & got some good inspiration off you page so we appreciate it 👌🏻 subscribe to our channel it’s “Coddventure” 🤘
The best video I've seen on the subject, very well done. Could you post a link to the exact wood to metal screws you used please? Key info. I've looked all through the HD screws and still not sure. Was that Liquid Nails? I've used self tapping exterior 1" galv wood screws extensively in a marine environment and they've been perfect after 10 years. Thank you, I've just subscribed.
Thank you!! I appreciate it. For the wood I used: Ceiling: 1/2” plywood ripped at 2.5” wide Angled ceiling piece and bed frame: 2X6 lumber All of the wall studs: 3/4” plywood ripped at 2.5” The screws are 1-7/16” wood to metal self tapping screws (the brand is Teks) The construction adhesive was from the Gorilla brand!
Another great video. You made the framing look so great. I have the ceiling and horizontal boards done! Uprights go in tomorrow. I wish I was young, strong, and tall...
Incredible video. Man, this is so clear and a very good strategy. Got a couple quesions: Is this the Promaster 136WB High Roof? How long are those two sets of vertical studs with the pocket holes? Did you stick with 55 inches for the horizontal frames as well? Tough to find decent diagrams online and I have no stores to check the Promaster dimensions in my area. Living in Germany right now and about to move back to the USA in March, but I am trying to get a plan ready.
Thank you! Glad you enjoyed the video! Hope it helps. This is the 159” high roof! I don’t remember exactly how long they were. But the upper cabinets I put in were 12”! The horizontal frames I just measures and cut. Don’t remember the exact size! Sorry
Good ideas with framing - especially along the ceiling transition. Your method of ensuring everything is on level is something I should have done. One technique that might cause problems in the future, though is using self-tapping screws and glue. I understand the desire to make everything rock solid, but some areas - such as the space over the rear doors, and the electrical chaseways in the upper wall sections - need to remain accessible for future repairs. By screwing & gluing those areas, it will be a nightmare to do any electrical repairs or additions in the future. Instead of using self tapping screws directly through the metal + glue, use rivnuts or plusnuts in the holes already present. This makes an incredibly strong structure that does not rattle, and can be removed for any repairs or upgrades. Otherwise, nice build!
Great video, I agree with a lot of the comments that this is one of the best tutorials on framing a van out there. One questions I had, are you drilling the pilot holes with the 5/8th bit for the self-tap screws after you mock the joist in place with the construction adhesive vs using a self drilling/tapping screw? I can see the benefit of using a pilot hole especially when using a bit with a countersink on it to lay the self tap screws flush against the board. Thanks for all the information and content!
Is the 1-7/16 screws needed since the strips are only a 1/2 inch. Seems like a 1 inch would do just fine. I’m not looking at an actual van, so maybe I’m missing something. Thanks
@@AnkeneyVanBuilds , do you have the link please. I did a conversion of a sprinter with my budy who is a great carpenter and i was the help... now i want to do it by my own, with a Promaster 118 in a simpler way, less luxury, i really like your teaching, thank you.
I have never worked in construction or built a campervan so excuse my very basic question - what kind of plywood do you use for the frame and in the video about making the bed? I made a very rookie mistake following another site's instructions on installing my floor and I first laid down regular plywood and treated it for mold - it promptly warped and I learned there are different types of plywood and I didn't need to treat the wood if I had the right plywood. By the way - your video on installing the floor also helped me solve the issues I was having. Love your videos!
I just used the standard plywood. Typically made of Pine. It’s important when sealing wood to seal it on both sides. All wood is going to expand and contract in some way! I used birch plywood for all my cabinets. But regular for the framing and bed frame. Glad my Flooring video was helpful :)
Love it😎👍 Subscribed, i just sold my unused Sunray 109 today, because I decided to buy a promaster van, cant wait to have you build it out for me, whens a good time 🤔🤔🤔
Hi! First, thank you! We literally just picked up our van yesterday and will be following many (if not most) of your steps. One question, though, (and I may have missed this) but do you have a video showing how you disconnected that rear light centered over the rear doors? If not, could you possibly talk through it here?
@@AnkeneyVanBuilds - You may regret that offer as I have yet another quick question :) What size Kreg screws did you use to attach the vertical 1/2 inch framing pieces to the 2x6s?
I did my bed framing just like yours- metal screws straight through 2x6 to the van . But I'm seeing alot of van builders use riv nuts. I'm nervous this won't hold up. How is your van doing? Any loosening feelings? etc? Thanks much. I'm solidifying my incoming bed frame now. I'll go check out more details on your bed video too. But this is the area I'm mostly concerned about since it's the most founding.
I am glad that I stumbled onto this channel because framing is one of the most difficult steps (for me) and this vid is an excellent resource for leaning How To. One furring/framing issue I have really struggled with is thermal bridging where, just to re-explain what some are already aware of, the (hypothetically) uninsulated van metal ribs that your framing is attached heat up in direct sunlight and transmit that heat through the framing as wood is also allegedly a poor insulator. To combat this somewhat, I have seen some install furring strips front to back and insulate between them, though this primarily on a cargo trailer with a flat roof. Am I overthinking this, or have you experienced any heat build up inside the van and thought of giving up precious inches for more insulation layers? Thanks a lot for these great videos!
Interesting concept!! If you framed it out length wise would you run your ceiling panels width wise of the van? If you have available headroom I’d totally try to insulate it
@@AnkeneyVanBuilds Good question on the ceiling panel direction. In order to achieve the desired "thermal break" by ensuring that a "continuous layer" of insulation covers the van metal frame, some have installed yet another set of furring strips width wise (after installing the lengthwise furring w/insulation and wiring) so that the ceiling panels can finally be installed lengthwise. Others have used rolls of closed cell foam that has flexibility and can curve with van contours and put it right overtop the van metal before any framing/furring.
I've appreciated the detail instructions in this video, Colton, but I'm wondering, did you put insulation (Thinsulate) behind the 2x6 furring strips? And if not, why not?
@@AnkeneyVanBuilds Thanks, it must have been later in the video, or I just missed it. Your detailed instructions have been VERY helpful as I begin my build- Promaster 3500 EXT.
Great video! I'm trying to do this now and couldn't with regular 1/2 inch boards as they didn't bend. Your boards look floppy and bendable. So if I got the 1/2 inch sheet and cut them 2 1/2 inch wide, they should be floppy and bendable like yours?
I'm curious about the use of self tapping screws into the van metal framing. It certainly is much easier than using brass rivets and bolts but do the screws create a place for rust to begin?
Hey good question! I used this method on my first van going on 2 years ago now and I haven’t had any issues. I think the chances of rust to build up there are slim since the wood and adhesive is pushed right up against the metal!
Great video! Thanks so much... Questions please: 1) For the cross members, you added 1/4 on driver side so it was 3/4 total and was then 'level'. What about all other cross members? 3/4 or 1/2? From looking it appears to be 3/4... 2) For attaching studs using the pocket holes what screw length/size did you use? I'm not wanting to split those cross members. Thanks again!
What about sound deadening and insulation? You've covered up the holes on some of the ribs before doing insulation? Your framing explanations and filming are good and helpful though.
Only curiosity is why you wouldn’t insulate the channels along the top before putting the 2x6 framing up. I’m gonna be transitioning to a pro master later this year hopefully for a pilot/escort video. So I’m studying different methods as I work towards that end.
Hi Colten, I have read through all the comments and answers. You are amazing fir answering everyone, including me. Thank you so much! I'm such a newbie! I have even had to buy all the tools as well. I live in a 55+ apartment complex. No garage. I am trying to figure out exactly how much and what to buy. When you say "I made a ton of strips 2 1/2 inches wide", I'm like...whaaat? I'm jealous of peeps who have a garage and lots of wood laying around, but I know I'm not alone when I say, I'm starting from scratch. How many 2x6's ?, 1/2 inch plywood sheets?, 3/4" plywood sheets?, did you use 2x8's for the sides? I've watched your videos multiple times and am using them for my van build. I have a 2019 Ram Promaster 149" wb. Thank you for any help.
Hahah hey thanks! Oh let’s see, I’m estimating but I’d say 3- 2x6s, 1 sheet of 1/2”, maybe 2-3 sheets of 3/4. I didn’t use any 2x8s Let me know if you have any questions
@@AnkeneyVanBuilds thank you...I know you used 2x6 on the frame. And on the head and foot of the bed. What did you frame the sides of the bed with? That's what I thought was a 2x8. Btw, your van was one of the best I've seen yet and I've watched many hours of you tube videos!
@@AnkeneyVanBuilds I was referring to the beautiful 2x8 walnut board you put on the outside edge of the bed. The one you cut out for the sliding table. But I don't know if you added one to the garage side as well?
Hi! Just started framing and was wondering if you used regular 2 1/2 inch screws on the 2x6’s or self tapping wood to metal 2 1/2 screws? We’re having trouble with the self tapping omes
@@AnkeneyVanBuilds awesome thanks! The self tappers worked on the roof and on the 3/4 inch wall panels but they didn’t seem to have anything to hold on to once they made it through the 2x6’s. One more question if you don’t mind! What width did you cut your 3/4 panels for all of the vertical supports?
@@AnkeneyVanBuilds Thanks for the prompt reply! Very helpful video BTW! I am at beginning of my Promaster build and soaking up knowledge wherever I can find it. Have you considered using rivnuts vs self tapping screws for strength and to avoid drilling more holes in the van? I like the simplicity of self tapping screws and wonder how difficult it would be to use the riv nuts (alignment etc) and pondering the pros/cons. Thanks.
I just watched it for the third time, it’s amazingly complete. But it is a fairly daunting process for a beginner. How about this idea, since it’s a gift from the gods of automotive heaven that all these pro master 159 wheebase vans are quite similar, how about you design a series of laser or CNC cut side and roof ribs that can be installed to the walls as a base for cedar siding. I bet you could figure out a way to do it with your very clever indentation in the sides where the bed is to make the bed longer. In my crazy mind, anyway they would be like the ribs on a kayak, maybe only five sets per wall/roof allowing for all the ins and outs and difficulties. You might lose a tiny bit of size in the van but it would be worth it for us newbies. The beginner builder could attach them at prearranged points on the van wall/roof. Then simply stuff in the insulation and just start nailing up the siding ignoring all that blocking and challenging transition from roof to walls. I would buy something like this in a HEARTBEAT for a high price. Particularly considering how much money anyone will save on hiring an expert. You could ship them all flat in cardboard boxes w accompanying videos. Anyway just off gassing over here looking for the easy way. Keep up the good work man, you are a wonderful craftsman and a fabulous teacher. B
I do not see you using any rivet nuts. It is ok to drill into the van without these? Wont the boards risk molding being directly on the metal that tends to condensation when cold. I thought it was best to insulate, tape all exposed metal with insulation tape and then frame onto that. I am open to easier ways. Thank you for your help!
I'm building out a sprinter and I am blown away that people use such small skimpy pieces of wood😂 yes ma'am I bought a rivet gun and I will be using it most everywhere😮 I'm going to put 2 x 4 farad strips along the wall on the floor and then at the halfway point😮 anywhere there's going to be wait hanging or attached there will be a substantial piece of wood behind it that has been riveted into the Van Wall😮 watch some of the van life videos as people have the camera aimed at them while they're driving and you can see the cabinets in the shelves just bouncing up and down back-and-forth left and right and I'm thinking of myself up he must have used some plywood strips and some self tapping screws.😂
@@justjudy7320 Great! Sounds good. I like how you have paid attention to all the details! You may want to ck out Humble rd if you have not already, he uses 80/20. I think what you are doing is enough but I am still considering the 80/20.
@@laurelanderson-rostami109 oh I love George's work my other favorite is Greg Virgo out of the UK. He makes his living insulating commercial buildings and has several videos on the how and the why to insulate and use reflectix.
@@laurelanderson-rostami109 I did purchase maybe 20 and I just thought it was too big of a pain in the ass too many different kinds of nuts and bolts too many different sizes of the 80/20.
Great videos & info I am building out a Promaster & pretty much copying your design . How did you frame around the two lights at base of ceiling of the Promaster . One light is located at center directly above rear doors . The other is located on passenger side above and in back of sliding the sliding door . Thanks much ! D
Great video! Thanks for posting. I like how you list the tools you are going to use at the beginning of a video. Can you add your Kreg jig to the links? I am having trouble deciding which one to get.
What length screws did you use for the 2x6's? And did you use self-drilling wood-to-metal screws? After 2 trips to the blue store and 4 different employees giving advice, I am more unsure than ever!
Newb question, I have heard it's great to use stainless steel screws, but the only ones I could find per your suggestion were like steel coated w a gray galvanize look. Thoughts? Thanks for all these videos, I'm using them while building!
@@AnkeneyVanBuilds Thanks for always being helpful! Are you drilling pilot holes in the wood? Through the metal, or does the self tapper take care of that?
I just started my framing and one of the issues I'm having is some of the 2x6 not screwing tightly on the metal framing... what would be your advice for this scenario?
Hm, maybe try using a smaller drill bit. Also what king of screw are you using on the 2x6? If it’s just a wood screw it won’t hold as well as a self tapper or a wood to metal screw. Hope this helps!
As an infant in the learning curve of van building and an almost-senior lady doing something so far out of my comfort/knowledge zone, your video (which I've watched 3 times so far) has been so helpful! I'd appreciate a parts list so that I'm sure I'm purchasing what you're suggesting. I've never heard anything but the plus nut/riv nut route with is more complicated and more expensive, so your approach is something much more easily achieved by me. Your tips are worth their weight in gold! Thank you so much for sharing your knowledge in detail! Tremendous video!
Thank you! Happy to hear that my videos have been helpful! That’s why I started this channel in the first place!!!
I agree with you about the plus nuts, those are probably a stronger option but more complicated and expensive. Self tapping screws with construction adhesive is plenty strong and in my opinion easier to install!
Good luck on your build! And congrats on stepping out of your comfort zone and learning something new!!! Cheers 🤘🏻
I keep going back and forth with nut/riv too. Is there any other benefit to riv, like rust prevention and removal? I am doing your video this weekend 😬😁
@@suzettecsutton The biggest benefits to riv nuts is it’s strength and remove-ability. It’s cons are that it’s more expensive and more difficult to install!
This guy has the best van building videos I’ve seen. It’s surprising all of his videos don’t have this many views. Thank you Ankeney!
Hahah thanks Blaine!! I wish they did 😂
I have watched 100’s of framing vids over the past 6 months... this is by far the best video I have watched!! Very detailed! 👍 I now feel confident that I can do this!! Thank you very much for posting this video!
Thank you Julie! I’m happy to hear that! Good luck on framing out your van!!
Yes...I watched it 2 times
Finally! A fellow Carpenter that speaks Promaster, lol! Been going crazy for a month trying to teach myself electrical/solar systems so I could have my order list & price together and then I went looking for framing/insulation videos... uugghh. Everything was either sprinters and transits, even bought one of the so-called DIY guides; CRAP (IMO). Was about to just freestyle it when the time came but I lucked up across this video and the wood/screws heavens opened up to me, lol. Appreciation from a career carpenter (almost 20 yrs and I'm 38). This really helped me wrap my mind around what specifically needed to be done as a frame and finish carpenter. Much love and keep these videos coming! My new go to van-build channel! Definitely do an exclusive on the shower because I designed for a 32x24 right behind the driver seat as well... #weirdscience
Comments like these make my day! The main reason I started this channel is because in a lot of videos I noticed people would skip over the difficult or awkward parts of the van and I would be left figuring it out myself. Also people try make their van build videos a cinematic film and don’t really teach you anything lol. I’m so glad you enjoyed my video! I hope the rest of my videos have been helpful too. Good luck on your build!!!
I agree. I like all your build videos. They are solid educational and informative explaining the details.
Leave the cinematography for the finished tour IMO.
I’m going to to be using all your videos for my Prom Master build too. Keep up the great work!
@@1lifewanderlust thank you! Glad you enjoy my videos! You’re Exactly right. Cinematic shots are for the tour only! Cheers
If you're a career carpenter, why *didn't* you just "freestyle it", as you say?
I just had to pause the video to say god daaamnn i like how u explained everything!!!
Hahahah hell ya! Glad it helped!
Just bought a used ram promaster and im using your videos as a guide to get my build going. Your the best i have found for people learning to do this for themselves. You are totally awesome! Keep it coming.
NICE!!! Good luck!!
I'll echo the comment below about how well made your framing video is. I was thinking about ripping plywood for framing and you've convinced me. Very well done sir and I'll continue following your progress.
Thank you so much! Means a lot! Good luck on your build
Getting those extra couple inches for the bed is gonna be CLUTCH!!
Right!! Took me a little bit to figure out how to maximize that space as much as possible. This is going to work out great!!
Good system of framing. You can also "gang cut" multiple strips of ply. Saves a lot of time. The Kreg pocket screws is a great idea.
the most instructive and practical van build series yet. thank you!
Glad you liked it!
This video has excellent instructions for framing. I have watched hundreds on this topic. Your method with the 2x6 at the ceiling is the best for using wood.
Thank you very much! Glad you enjoyed it!
Well, I hope you show the close up in the future what you have in you hand screw wise and how and where you are placing it that is what I want to see to make sure I know where to drill. Yes beginner people need the detail where the screw is going into the metal. Fear of screwing up pun lol good video your the only one I have found showing details in framing. Thank you
I did show the products I used in the beginning of the video! I used 1-7/16” wood to metal self tapping screws and construction adhesive.
As far as the placement of the screws, it is fairly straight forward! There’s about a 10% chance your miss since there’s random gaps and holes in the structure, and if you do find one of those it’s simple enough to back the screw out and find a different spot!
Hope that helps!
This is one of the best videos I've seen on framing.
Thank you so much!! I really appreciate it
I agree. Well thought out and explained.
Same here. Saving this video for my build
@@crystalkoontz844 awesome! Good luck on your build 🤘🏻
Best build video I've seen to date. I'm building a Promaster, and have been scratching my head so far, on how to do tricky parts. The passenger side, behind seat, has me freaked out.
Are you talking about over the slider door?
@@AnkeneyVanBuilds Yes. It has that area above the slider that is narrow and comes to a point. I with I had your skill.
@@splash1152 check out my “finishing touches video” I talk about how I covered that area up! You got this
@@AnkeneyVanBuilds Thanks a lot. Your the man.
@@splash1152 you’re welcome 🤘🏻
Enjoyed watching your video, I am a contractor with a Promaster and I like your ideas and craftmanship!
Thanks James!
This is great! I’m not a builder but I’m a teacher and I can tell you that your teaching is excellent! It all makes sense to me and now I’m not afraid to do it. Many people have skills and abilities, but to teach those skills to others is an art. Can’t wait to get started!
Aw that was the nicest compliment!!! Thank you so much:) good luck!
Here because I saw your channel sticker on the back window of a van downtown an hour ago in the 208.
That’s awesome 🤘🏻🤘🏻🤘🏻 hahaha
Thank you so much for your videos. They have been the best tools in my chest. I'm converting a 2021 Promaster 159 and you have so many great ideas. A real craftsman. Just getting to the ship lap is a real chore but you have made my project more enjoyable, since I've seen it done before. I had a neighbor think that all this was in my head and I'm freestyling. I gave you a big plug. You deserve it. Thank you Thank You THANK YOU!
Wow, comments like these is what it’s all about! Thank YOU so much!! And I feel you on the shiplap part, there’s so much prep work that goes into just getting walls and ceilings in haha. But makes it that much more rewarding!!
My whole family thought I was in over my head when I started my first van. I had NO experience, but I learned so much and really really enjoyed it. SO REWARDING! Haha good luck on your build!!!
Notification bell gang!!! Thanks for watching. Links to everything in this van is in the description. If you found this helpful, LIKE THIS VIDEO AND LEAVE A COMMENT! That is the best way to help my channel out!
I’m trying to figure out if the Promaster is tall enough for me. How tall are you?
@@joeblow1942 6’2”
@@AnkeneyVanBuilds Cool. I’m only 5-11 so I’ll be good. Thanks.
@@sheri4673 I use the kreg pocket screws for soft woods at 1-1/4 since it’s all going into 3/4” wood. They come in packs of 100. I’d think 2-3 of those will be enough
@@sheri4673 plywood is pretty true to size ! It’s the 2x4s and so on that are off
Excellent framing video. One of the best DIY show and tell demos I've seen. Thanks.
Wow thank you for the feed back! Glad I could help!
Thank you for your detailed video. I just got into a Promaster 2500 136 WB recently… I’ve been kicking around a lot of ideas on how to install the support system / structure. This is a huge help.
This is THE most helpful video I've found. Thank you. One request.....add simple added helpful guides like:
"I ended up needing ___ linear inches of 2X6 for the upper, angled panels"
Thank you
I just put a deposit on a Promaster today. So glad I immediately discovered your channel !
Perfect!!! Good luck :)
You are a great teacher.
Thank you for the kind words Barbyl!
Just about to dive in to my framing process. Perfect! Thanks for the tips and doing the thinking for us.
You’re so welcome. I’m hear for you 😂
Nice video with plenty of helpful tips. I do find it interesting how one builder will only use plus nuts and paint all firing strips with Killz while others choose to just use raw wood and drill straight into the van. I guess it really comes down to personal choice. Thanks for sharing.
Thank you! You’re Exactly right though. One of the most common questions I get is why I don’t use the plus nuts. I used self tapping screws and construction adhesive for my first van two years ago and it’s still working out great! I also find it more more efficient and less time consuming!
Thanks for the comment. Cheers!
@Cascade Yoga Co. Depends on how meticulous you want to be. I chose to use rivnuts, painted all drilled out holes with auto primer/paint, and used mildew resistant Kilz on both sides of all lumber. Seemed to make the most sense to me.
Man I cannot tell you helpful this video is along with your wisdom from the previous build really shines bright. Thank you so much man.
Thank you Kyle!
Very glad I found this video. I was just staring at my walls and wondering what I was going to do for framing. I think I am going to completely replicate your process. I really love the upper 2x6 idea and the way you framer the bed sleep area. Thanks!!!
Great!!! Glad you liked it. Good luck Joe!!
Thanks bro...good job. I bought a sprinter van and I'm learning by watching u.
Great video. I’m wondering if I use 1x3s which are 3/4” thick if that would throw off ceiling using the 2x6s? I don’t have a way to rip plywood.
You’ve just got another subscriber. I’m now binge watching all your videos!!!
I hope they are in order of building out the Van. As I’m not experienced but my Dad has building experience finishing 3 basement builds from scratch. So he and I hope to tackle a Van build project.
Not sure where or how to start. Framing, electrical, plumbing ... as this is definitely different from a house.
Thank you!!’ Glad you like them! I filmed and published these videos in order of how I’ve tackled the van build! Good luck on you build 🤘🏻
These are great tips I need to know because I want so bad to be able to do this on my van by myself & I have zero carpentry skills but all the desire to learn & get to work. Being almost completely paralyzed from the waist below I am going to have to get creative myself.
Nice work Colton! The van is going to be set!!
Thanks!! I’m excited. This frame work should work out great 👍🏻
Very well done! Pretty much every build I see puts untreated / unsealed wood in the floors, walls, and ceilings. You don’t want to do that. There WILL be moisture and that plus raw wood in an enclosed space can lead to mildew (usually) and mold (rarely). Good idea is to seal (primer or sealer) all the raw wood before installing it.
So good! Watching you makes it look doable. Thank you for all the tips. Looking forward to watching more of your informative videos.
Thanks Kerry!
great video!! anything to be gained comfort and noise wise by filling by the ribs with foam or stuffing insulation in them ? i assume you are using flat board style insul behind the open parts of the walls? thnx,
Becarful filling the rips and stuff with spray foam ir that "great stuff" insulation. if you spray too much it'll start to expand, since the outside of the van is just thin sheet metal, it can warp the outside!! don't want that to happen!! I have a video where I show my insulation techniques!!
@@AnkeneyVanBuilds have heard to be careful w the foam, , also that winnebago and all the highend conversions use it thnx for the help.
@@joeymyopic you’re welcome! Hope I helped! Good luck!
@@AnkeneyVanBuilds was quoted C$1200 , US$ 950 to foam a promaster 136" high roof walls, roof, and backdoors , does that sound reasonable to you? appreciate your help, i'm in the logo'd apparel business, can supply anything u need at dealer cost.
@@joeymyopic I spent close to $700 on doing the insulation myself with the 3M thinsulate!
And that’s awesome. Send me an email @ ankeneyvanbuilds@gmail.com with some info about the logos!
Thank you for your van build series. It's thorough and easy to understand. Have you tried building a shower/bathroom in a van?
You’re welcome!!! Glad I could help! I have not built a full stand in shower in a van before. I’m more of an outdoor shower kinda guy 😏
I'm starting to build out my ProMaster 2500 and this tutorial was excellent. Thanks so much!
You’re so welcome! Good luck on everything
Hey nice work! We tried to maximize the space by the bed too. We got a short queen mattress and it fits perfectly👍
Thanks!! Yeah the short queen mattress is clutch!!
Which screws did you use after making the holes with the Kreg jig? Cheers
1-1/4” kreg pocket screws!
Holy geez!!! Thanks for the immediate reply!!!
@@danzbeard I do my best!
I’ve read that you’ll need nice insulation in those empty spaces to prevent moisture build up that cause rust.
Sure!
Does it really matter on the ceiling boards if I’m using 3/4 pine I know u mentioned 1/2 not sure ? if I have to trim them down I’m using fascia 2/6s it’s actually 1-3/8 thick does it matter upper top so where they meet I’m actually building it right now after watching your videos which is very inspiring well explain your doing a awesome job thanks for your time that u invest
I used 1/2” to save some space for head room. Nothing wrong with using 3/4”
Thanks for the video! You attached the half inch plywood studs with self-tapping screws. I've seen many other van builders use Riv-nuts. I would prefer to use self-tappers as it seems easier. I would like to know if you've had any issues with any of them coming loose over time as you drive your van. Appreciate any insight or guidance you can provide. Thanks!
Never had any come loose!
Thanks so much for the reply! One more question I was hoping you could answer. The van I purchased has a floor made of MDF. The MDF will be covered with Vinyl and I will be screwing cabinets and other fixtures into the floor, but before I do is there any type of waterproofing solution you would recommend. e.g. Thompson's water seal? Thanks!!
Hey, love this build, it’s been super helpful framing out my Promaster. I’m curious why you frame the ceiling along the beams instead of just screwing straights into the beams and adding framing at the front and the back? That’s what I am planning on and curious if there is any reason I would need the extra frames along the existing beams.
Great question. Since this was going to be a tongue and groove ceiling the framining needed to be perpendicular to have enough places to attach the ceiling.
But the vans that I’ve used wall panels for I run the framing boards front to back!
Hi, Just to have an idea of floor to ceiling dimensions, how tall are you? Out of all the van framing videos I have watched, your framing method seem to be the best I've seen. Thanks for posting.
Hi! I am 6’2”. So with the 1/2” framing and the 3/4” ceiling boards I still have about an inch of clearance!
I’m glad you enjoyed the video! Hope it helps you with yours
This is the most informative easy to understand video .. maybe it's the way he talks lol
Thank you Kaiya! Glad it helped !
great video. your vertical bed frame is used with 2x4 brackets that are vertical across and then those are drilled into 2x6" for the frame correct?
That is correct!
Awesome bro, thank you! Me and my girl just started our van build & got some good inspiration off you page so we appreciate it 👌🏻 subscribe to our channel it’s “Coddventure” 🤘
Good build info here! thanks
if you dont have a table saw like yours, can you ask HD to cut that sheet wood into 2in studs ?
thanks
You can always ask! Or you can get a skill saw and a straight edge!
The best video I've seen on the subject, very well done. Could you post a link to the exact wood to metal screws you used please? Key info. I've looked all through the HD screws and still not sure. Was that Liquid Nails? I've used self tapping exterior 1" galv wood screws extensively in a marine environment and they've been perfect after 10 years. Thank you, I've just subscribed.
Thank you!! I appreciate it.
For the wood I used:
Ceiling: 1/2” plywood ripped at 2.5” wide
Angled ceiling piece and bed frame: 2X6 lumber
All of the wall studs: 3/4” plywood ripped at 2.5”
The screws are 1-7/16” wood to metal self tapping screws (the brand is Teks)
The construction adhesive was from the Gorilla brand!
Another great video. You made the framing look so great. I have the ceiling and horizontal boards done! Uprights go in tomorrow. I wish I was young, strong, and tall...
I LOVE your videos! You are a great teacher 😊
Thanks Mark!
Thank you 😊 now I can't start the framing. Hello from oregon state
You’re welcome!! Good luck on framing! Hello from Idaho 👌🏻
Incredible video. Man, this is so clear and a very good strategy. Got a couple quesions: Is this the Promaster 136WB High Roof? How long are those two sets of vertical studs with the pocket holes? Did you stick with 55 inches for the horizontal frames as well? Tough to find decent diagrams online and I have no stores to check the Promaster dimensions in my area. Living in Germany right now and about to move back to the USA in March, but I am trying to get a plan ready.
Thank you! Glad you enjoyed the video! Hope it helps. This is the 159” high roof!
I don’t remember exactly how long they were. But the upper cabinets I put in were 12”!
The horizontal frames I just measures and cut. Don’t remember the exact size! Sorry
Awesome job brotha! You gave me some great tips in this video. Thanks!!
Thank you!!! Good luck on your build!
Good ideas with framing - especially along the ceiling transition. Your method of ensuring everything is on level is something I should have done.
One technique that might cause problems in the future, though is using self-tapping screws and glue. I understand the desire to make everything rock solid, but some areas - such as the space over the rear doors, and the electrical chaseways in the upper wall sections - need to remain accessible for future repairs. By screwing & gluing those areas, it will be a nightmare to do any electrical repairs or additions in the future. Instead of using self tapping screws directly through the metal + glue, use rivnuts or plusnuts in the holes already present. This makes an incredibly strong structure that does not rattle, and can be removed for any repairs or upgrades.
Otherwise, nice build!
Thanks for the feedback! That is good point. I think either way if you have to go back and fix those it would be a night mare haha
@@natureloversadventures7335 yeah you could totally do that!!!
Think this is one of the most helpful videos!! Really appreciate it and keep up the good work!
I’m so glad you enjoyed it!!! Thank you 🤘🏻
"fivetuple" = quintuple 😉 thanks for the video!
Shhh 🤫
Great video, I agree with a lot of the comments that this is one of the best tutorials on framing a van out there. One questions I had, are you drilling the pilot holes with the 5/8th bit for the self-tap screws after you mock the joist in place with the construction adhesive vs using a self drilling/tapping screw? I can see the benefit of using a pilot hole especially when using a bit with a countersink on it to lay the self tap screws flush against the board. Thanks for all the information and content!
Thanks Nolan! If you have a good impact driver, pilot holes aren’t totally necessary!
Love this framing idea, I’m going to try to replicate.
Just curious, did you use the same 1 7/16 self tappers on the 2 by 6s up top too?
No those were 2-1/2" screws!! good question!
@@AnkeneyVanBuilds To clarify, you mentioned 3" screws on the video when screwing the bed studs. Will 3" work for the cabinet studs as well?
@@jennypatacsil9821 yes! 3” will work for those too!
Is the 1-7/16 screws needed since the strips are only a 1/2 inch. Seems like a 1 inch would do just fine. I’m not looking at an actual van, so maybe I’m missing something. Thanks
At 6:08 what did you end up placing on top of that piece of framing in the back?
Love this. Do you have a parts list? Newbies need everything. Is it birch plywood?
Thank you!! No I didn’t use birch for the framing. I did for all the cabinets though!!
Hi, super cool and clear video. Thank you. Do you have a video on how you did your floor... tks again, merci
I do!!!
@@AnkeneyVanBuilds , do you have the link please. I did a conversion of a sprinter with my budy who is a great carpenter and i was the help... now i want to do it by my own, with a Promaster 118 in a simpler way, less luxury, i really like your teaching, thank you.
@@marc-francoisrouleau6630 yup! We have a website and an email
Ankeneyvanbuilds.com
Ankeneyvanbuilds@gmail.com
So helpful…Do the stubs not need priming?….Please Advise!….thank you😊
Nope
AWSOME build just bought me a 2020 Pro Master gonna do a work/Vanlife build your video was very helpful thank you keep it up 👍🏽
I have never worked in construction or built a campervan so excuse my very basic question - what kind of plywood do you use for the frame and in the video about making the bed? I made a very rookie mistake following another site's instructions on installing my floor and I first laid down regular plywood and treated it for mold - it promptly warped and I learned there are different types of plywood and I didn't need to treat the wood if I had the right plywood. By the way - your video on installing the floor also helped me solve the issues I was having. Love your videos!
I just used the standard plywood. Typically made of Pine. It’s important when sealing wood to seal it on both sides. All wood is going to expand and contract in some way! I used birch plywood for all my cabinets. But regular for the framing and bed frame. Glad my
Flooring video was helpful :)
@@AnkeneyVanBuilds Thank you for your quick reply!
@@kellyhaas1194 always :) feel free to ask as much as you want
i don't get how u screw down the ply wood pieces into the metal ribs..
like do u drill new holes or use the ones that are already there
The self tapping screws drill into the metal. they're specifically designed the attach wood to metal!
Hey dude so did you use 3/4 in ply for that driver side middle horizontal column and then 1/2 inch for the passenger side?
3/4 for all the walls!
@@AnkeneyVanBuilds Thanks dude!
Love it😎👍 Subscribed, i just sold my unused Sunray 109 today, because I decided to buy a promaster van, cant wait to have you build it out for me, whens a good time 🤔🤔🤔
Thanks for subscribing! I’m actually not accepting any more custom builds at this time, sorry!
Hi! First, thank you! We literally just picked up our van yesterday and will be following many (if not most) of your steps. One question, though, (and I may have missed this) but do you have a video showing how you disconnected that rear light centered over the rear doors? If not, could you possibly talk through it here?
Hi! Congrats on buying your van!! I didn’t talk about it in the video. But you simply pop it out and unplug it!
@@AnkeneyVanBuilds Great! Thank you for such a quick response!
@@wendistraight6425 you’re welcome! Feel free to ask as many questions as you want
@@AnkeneyVanBuilds - You may regret that offer as I have yet another quick question :) What size Kreg screws did you use to attach the vertical 1/2 inch framing pieces to the 2x6s?
@@wendistraight6425 the vertical pieces are actually 3/4” ply! And the screws are 1-1/4!
I did my bed framing just like yours- metal screws straight through 2x6 to the van . But I'm seeing alot of van builders use riv nuts. I'm nervous this won't hold up. How is your van doing? Any loosening feelings? etc? Thanks much. I'm solidifying my incoming bed frame now. I'll go check out more details on your bed video too. But this is the area I'm mostly concerned about since it's the most founding.
It’s been 3 years and everything is as secure as when I installed it
you mentioned your walls (in prev vanbuild) were loose bc you didnt have enough studs, how'd you fix this in prev van ?
thanks
My previous van had 1/4” wall panels so I had to frame it out similar to how I did in this video. So there was more support. For the tounge and grove!
DeWalt is underrated, I've also used that impact driver trick for many things
haha yeah I love my yellow tools lol
I am glad that I stumbled onto this channel because framing is one of the most difficult steps (for me) and this vid is an excellent resource for leaning How To. One furring/framing issue I have really struggled with is thermal bridging where, just to re-explain what some are already aware of, the (hypothetically) uninsulated van metal ribs that your framing is attached heat up in direct sunlight and transmit that heat through the framing as wood is also allegedly a poor insulator. To combat this somewhat, I have seen some install furring strips front to back and insulate between them, though this primarily on a cargo trailer with a flat roof. Am I overthinking this, or have you experienced any heat build up inside the van and thought of giving up precious inches for more insulation layers? Thanks a lot for these great videos!
Interesting concept!! If you framed it out length wise would you run your ceiling panels width wise of the van? If you have available headroom I’d totally try to insulate it
@@AnkeneyVanBuilds Good question on the ceiling panel direction. In order to achieve the desired "thermal break" by ensuring that a "continuous layer" of insulation covers the van metal frame, some have installed yet another set of furring strips width wise (after installing the lengthwise furring w/insulation and wiring) so that the ceiling panels can finally be installed lengthwise. Others have used rolls of closed cell foam that has flexibility and can curve with van contours and put it right overtop the van metal before any framing/furring.
@@ojorojo8283 ohh I see what you’re saying about the ceiling.. interesting!
I've appreciated the detail instructions in this video, Colton, but I'm wondering, did you put insulation (Thinsulate) behind the 2x6 furring strips? And if not, why not?
I did!
@@AnkeneyVanBuilds Thanks, it must have been later in the video, or I just missed it. Your detailed instructions have been VERY helpful as I begin my build- Promaster 3500 EXT.
Great video! I'm trying to do this now and couldn't with regular 1/2 inch boards as they didn't bend. Your boards look floppy and bendable. So if I got the 1/2 inch sheet and cut them 2 1/2 inch wide, they should be floppy and bendable like yours?
That is correct
I'm curious about the use of self tapping screws into the van metal framing. It certainly is much easier than using brass rivets and bolts but do the screws create a place for rust to begin?
Hey good question! I used this method on my first van going on 2 years ago now and I haven’t had any issues. I think the chances of rust to build up there are slim since the wood and adhesive is pushed right up against the metal!
Great video! Thanks so much... Questions please:
1) For the cross members, you added 1/4 on driver side so it was 3/4 total and was then 'level'. What about all other cross members? 3/4 or 1/2? From looking it appears to be 3/4...
2) For attaching studs using the pocket holes what screw length/size did you use? I'm not wanting to split those cross members.
Thanks again!
All the ceilings were 1/2 and the walls are 3/4
And for pocket holes I use 1-1/4”!!!
Great video! So many helpful tricks for a first time builder!
Glad it was helpful!
What about sound deadening and insulation? You've covered up the holes on some of the ribs before doing insulation?
Your framing explanations and filming are good and helpful though.
I have a video on how I insulated this van
@@AnkeneyVanBuilds K. Thanks. I'll check it out.
Only curiosity is why you wouldn’t insulate the channels along the top before putting the 2x6 framing up. I’m gonna be transitioning to a pro master later this year hopefully for a pilot/escort video. So I’m studying different methods as I work towards that end.
I could have/ should have. So you should!
Made the same move with the bit in the impact driver. Getting around the cargo space is a pain.
That’s the joys of working on a van!
Hi Colten, I have read through all the comments and answers. You are amazing fir answering everyone, including me. Thank you so much! I'm such a newbie! I have even had to buy all the tools as well. I live in a 55+ apartment complex. No garage. I am trying to figure out exactly how much and what to buy. When you say "I made a ton of strips 2 1/2 inches wide", I'm like...whaaat? I'm jealous of peeps who have a garage and lots of wood laying around, but I know I'm not alone when I say, I'm starting from scratch. How many 2x6's ?, 1/2 inch plywood sheets?, 3/4" plywood sheets?, did you use 2x8's for the sides? I've watched your videos multiple times and am using them for my van build. I have a 2019 Ram Promaster 149" wb. Thank you for any help.
Hahah hey thanks! Oh let’s see, I’m estimating but I’d say 3- 2x6s, 1 sheet of 1/2”, maybe 2-3 sheets of 3/4.
I didn’t use any 2x8s
Let me know if you have any questions
@@AnkeneyVanBuilds thank you...I know you used 2x6 on the frame. And on the head and foot of the bed. What did you frame the sides of the bed with? That's what I thought was a 2x8.
Btw, your van was one of the best I've seen yet and I've watched many hours of you tube videos!
@@barbarabilodeau1323 2x4s!
@@AnkeneyVanBuilds I was referring to the beautiful 2x8 walnut board you put on the outside edge of the bed. The one you cut out for the sliding table. But I don't know if you added one to the garage side as well?
@@barbarabilodeau1323 ahhh yes. I believe that was a 1X8
Hi! Just started framing and was wondering if you used regular 2 1/2 inch screws on the 2x6’s or self tapping wood to metal 2 1/2 screws? We’re having trouble with the self tapping omes
I used 3" Spax construction screws that are used for wood and metal!. what issue are you running into with the self tappers?
@@AnkeneyVanBuilds awesome thanks! The self tappers worked on the roof and on the 3/4 inch wall panels but they didn’t seem to have anything to hold on to once they made it through the 2x6’s. One more question if you don’t mind! What width did you cut your 3/4 panels for all of the vertical supports?
@@angeleishulman7635 hmm maybe your missing the metal and hitting one of the holes in the frame.... I ripped it to 2-1/2 wide!
@@AnkeneyVanBuilds that sounds about right! Thank you so much!
Did you install any insulation behind (inside) all of the ribs you used to install your studwork? Are you concerned with thermal bridging?
I stuffed insulation in there as best I could. I have a full insulation video :). I used 3m thinsulate and it works great!
@@AnkeneyVanBuilds Thanks for the prompt reply! Very helpful video BTW! I am at beginning of my Promaster build and soaking up knowledge wherever I can find it. Have you considered using rivnuts vs self tapping screws for strength and to avoid drilling more holes in the van? I like the simplicity of self tapping screws and wonder how difficult it would be to use the riv nuts (alignment etc) and pondering the pros/cons. Thanks.
@@johnhaug8317 I have nothing against riv nuts! It’s a great option. There are many different ways to build out vans! This is just the method I prefer
Did you use the 1 7/16 screws on the front ceiling piece also? I looked under the headliner and it looks like maybe they will be too long.
Thanks for posting
Thank you for commenting!
I just watched it for the third time, it’s amazingly complete. But it is a fairly daunting process for a beginner. How about this idea, since it’s a gift from the gods of automotive heaven that all these pro master 159 wheebase vans are quite similar, how about you design a series of laser or CNC cut side and roof ribs that can be installed to the walls as a base for cedar siding. I bet you could figure out a way to do it with your very clever indentation in the sides where the bed is to make the bed longer.
In my crazy mind, anyway they would be like the ribs on a kayak, maybe only five sets per wall/roof allowing for all the ins and outs and difficulties. You might lose a tiny bit of size in the van but it would be worth it for us newbies. The beginner builder could attach them at prearranged points on the van wall/roof. Then simply stuff in the insulation and just start nailing up the siding ignoring all that blocking and challenging transition from roof to walls. I would buy something like this in a HEARTBEAT for a high price. Particularly considering how much money anyone will save on hiring an expert. You could ship them all flat in cardboard boxes w accompanying videos.
Anyway just off gassing over here looking for the easy way. Keep up the good work man, you are a wonderful craftsman and a fabulous teacher.
B
Wow that’s something I have never thought of! Interesting concept!!! Thanks that you for the ideas and compliments
I do not see you using any rivet nuts. It is ok to drill into the van without these? Wont the boards risk molding being directly on the metal that tends to condensation when cold. I thought it was best to insulate, tape all exposed metal with insulation tape and then frame onto that. I am open to easier ways. Thank you for your help!
I'm building out a sprinter and I am blown away that people use such small skimpy pieces of wood😂 yes ma'am I bought a rivet gun and I will be using it most everywhere😮 I'm going to put 2 x 4 farad strips along the wall on the floor and then at the halfway point😮 anywhere there's going to be wait hanging or attached there will be a substantial piece of wood behind it that has been riveted into the Van Wall😮 watch some of the van life videos as people have the camera aimed at them while they're driving and you can see the cabinets in the shelves just bouncing up and down back-and-forth left and right and I'm thinking of myself up he must have used some plywood strips and some self tapping screws.😂
@@justjudy7320 Great! Sounds good. I like how you have paid attention to all the details! You may want to ck out Humble rd if you have not already, he uses 80/20. I think what you are doing is enough but I am still considering the 80/20.
@@laurelanderson-rostami109 oh I love George's work my other favorite is Greg Virgo out of the UK. He makes his living insulating commercial buildings and has several videos on the how and the why to insulate and use reflectix.
@@laurelanderson-rostami109 I did purchase maybe 20 and I just thought it was too big of a pain in the ass too many different kinds of nuts and bolts too many different sizes of the 80/20.
@@justjudy7320 Thanks for the feedback, that is my hesitation too, I want to enjoy building it.
Great videos & info I am building out a Promaster & pretty much copying your design . How did you frame around the two lights at base of ceiling of the Promaster .
One light is located at center directly above rear doors . The other is located on passenger side above and in back of sliding the sliding door .
Thanks much !
D
I believe I just popped them out
Did you screw the 1/2 inch ply directly to the headliner?
Underneath that header is another structural rib!
I did pull it back and see that I've seen some people cut it back. It looked like you attached the 1/2 in. strip directly over it?
@@planat96 I did not cut it back, correct! It’s a tricky spot for sure
Great video! Thanks for posting. I like how you list the tools you are going to use at the beginning of a video. Can you add your Kreg jig to the links? I am having trouble deciding which one to get.
amzn.to/3z6Lkno
heres the one I use!
Please describe the dimensions of that pine ceiling board so I can copy what you did. Thanks so much for an amazing video.
Their 6 inchs wide 3/4” thick and 8 feet long!
Lol! I am going to have to use my little ole jigsaw for this project. Unless lowes would let me use their saw! Haha
What kind of pocket jig do you use?
Kregg pocket jig!
What length screws did you use for the 2x6's? And did you use self-drilling wood-to-metal screws? After 2 trips to the blue store and 4 different employees giving advice, I am more unsure than ever!
Thank you for explaining so well! Did you also use self tapping screws on the bed supports? If so how long were they?
Thank you!🥰
They were 3” screws :)
@@AnkeneyVanBuilds Thank you!
@@naturallife9931 you’re welcome! Good luck
For the ceiling.. I would think a piece of luan would be good…. Unless your hanging heavy stuff from it. But luan is so easy and light
Nice. Good idea
I’m glad I watched this because my bed will be 74 inches as well and I was freaking out haha
Great! Glad I could help!
Newb question, I have heard it's great to use stainless steel screws, but the only ones I could find per your suggestion were like steel coated w a gray galvanize look. Thoughts? Thanks for all these videos, I'm using them while building!
Those should work great!
@@AnkeneyVanBuilds Thanks for always being helpful! Are you drilling pilot holes in the wood? Through the metal, or does the self tapper take care of that?
@@Zakrivers through both! The self tappers are supposed to work but it doesn’t always work right away... so predrilng helps
I just started my framing and one of the issues I'm having is some of the 2x6 not screwing tightly on the metal framing... what would be your advice for this scenario?
Hm, maybe try using a smaller drill bit. Also what king of screw are you using on the 2x6? If it’s just a wood screw it won’t hold as well as a self tapper or a wood to metal screw.
Hope this helps!