Leaking Injector: How to Replace to Avoid BLACK DEATH
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 23 พ.ค. 2021
- Leaking Injector: How to Replace to Avoid BLACK DEATH// Sprinter injectors can start leaking and cause black death to occur. To avoid this, learn how to tell when your injectors are leaking so you can remove the injector and replace the copper washer seal. Replacement of the seal will repair the stuck fuel injector and help avoid further maintenance and repair from happening.
#leakinginjector #sprinter #madetoexplore
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• Leaking Injector: How ... - ยานยนต์และพาหนะ
Are you going to try to replace your injectors? We would love to hear any tips and tricks that you have in the comments below! Thanks for watching 😆
th-cam.com/video/kpVRJJbARnM/w-d-xo.html Here's mine
Thank you so much. We are looking to buy a 2006 today and have been studying all of your videos! Hopefully see you down the road.
Cheers from California
That’s awesome! Thank you so much, see you on the road
Hello from Germany! Everything has been done correctly so far, including the approach. I think the idea with the aluminum foil is great, but why not use it to close the opening of the injector until the high-pressure line is connected again? Also from the return line.
I also took out the injectors on my W204 and was probably a bit too careless because dirt particles had probably gotten into the system somewhere. The engine initially had too little pressure in the fuel system and would not start at all. With the help of Starterpilot, the engine ran, but very rough and smoked a lot.
It is really important to pay attention to cleanliness, a single particle can be enough to deactivate an injector. My Benz ran without any problems before and I had harmed myself in this way. Now I need a new fuel filter and will change all the injectors and the rail pipe needs to be checked for cleanliness.
Maybe the injectors would have had to be replaced soon anyway, but I could have saved myself these costs and work for now ;-((
What I wanted to say to all amateurs. This work is basically simple, but do this work very carefully, you can save yourself a lot of trouble.
A really clear explanation of the whole process, will be doing my C270 soon. I also bought a cheap reaming kit to clean the washer/injector seats. I already have a small ultrasonic cleaner im going to use.👍😀
Glad it helped! Good luck with the install 👍
THIS IS BY FAR THE MOST ACCURATE - AND EASY TO UNDERSTAND - TUTORIAL ON BENZ DIESEL FUEL INJECTOR "BLACK DEATH"!😄
Thanks Robert! Appreciate it 👍
Was watching another video (Florida van man) he made a tool from wooden dowel to clean the deep hole for the injectors.
I’m impressed. Thanks for posting.
Welcome! Thanks for watching
I have designed a puller that doesn't require a slide hammer, or unscrewing the top of the injector. it sits on and pushes down on the 4mm wide strips of the valve cover that run front to back, to the left and to the right of the injectors. The thing I am not sure of is if the valve cover can take the stress. The parts of the puller saddle that sit on the strips of the cover are 5-6" long. My number 1 injector was very stuck, even without visible black death particles, driving it up hills with the bolt loose wouldn't do the trick, slide hammer did after many minutes...Yours is the best over all video I have seen for this job, clear video, no wasted words, but you covered all the bases! Only critique is that you should mention about cleaning out the where the hold down bolt threads in.
Thanks! With an expensive aluminum valve cover, i wouldn’t want to be the first to test it haha good luck though! I hope it ends up working out better than the slide hammer. I must have slide that thing back and forth a thousand times to get my #1 injector out too.
Can you post a picture of what you managed to do
@@tomasfernandez1527 It wouldn't work because valve cover only strong enough right around each injector to push down, sorry.
great video well explained i (THOUGHT) have all the parts now i will go and get new stretch bolts thanks
Thank you! Good luck with the install 👍
thanks for teaching us I learned a lot about your video I have a 6cta8.3 cumming diesel engine with the same problem we cleaned injectors and calibrated we put new washers and it is leaking here I found the solution with your video I have to clean the injector hole where the copper washer sits THANK YOU SO MUCH PARTNER
Welcome! Thanks for watching
why not losen off the retaining clamps a little then start the engine to pop the injectors out a couple of mm. that makes it far easier to lift out the injectlors.
Because it doesn’t always work. It worked perfectly for my second injector but not my first one. Sometimes they are just too stuck
The reason this job is vital to do is because in a lot of engines the bore for the injector is open and exhaust gases escape (blow-by) into the crankcase and mess up the engine oil. All engines have some blow-by by design and this is vented via the breather pipe, but excessive blow-by is not good and can seriously impact an engine. Also oil can be forced into the breather pipe and into the turbo . The breather pipe vents to the air intake just before the turbo.
Interesting! Thanks for all the info 👍
The bore for the injector is open?
Please explain, it doesn't make sense.
How can it be connected to the crank case in any way?
Very informative video…I may be doing one on my GL 320 👍
Thanks Leo! Good luck with injectors
Dang there were some solid tips there.
One issue missed.
Be extra careful to clean threads on the bolt and hole. But not to leave residue or oil on the threads. Oiled bolts will impose more tension on the bolt when torqued and can risk breaking the bolt when following the manual torque specs.
Thanks for the tip!
if you have a lot of carbon build up or stubborn to get out, soak the area around injectors overnight with acetone then warm up the engine as you have described, then also you can use acetone to clean off carbon from tips
Thanks for the tips! Appreciate it 👍
excellent video. Thank you
Welcome! Thanks for watching
Absolutely brilliant video, learnt so much in just a few minutes. One concern I'd have is about 'that compact' material falling off the injector as you remove it. Do you bring the piston to TDC first??
Yeah I understand that concern for sure! I haven’t heard of this being an issue as I don’t think much of the material actually falls off. It’s VERY sticky stuff. I didn’t being the piston to TDC.
Well done, it's the one job on my T1N I don't want to tackle myself
Thanks Phil! It can be tricky to get those injectors out but once they are out, it’s all down hill from there
USE PENETRATING OIL, SLOWLY MOVING BACK N FORTH WITH REG FLAT HEAD SCREWDRIVER , ENGINE WARMED UP OF COURSE. GREAT VIDEO. THE MORE I LEARN TO DIY , THE MORE I WANT A MERCEDES SPRINTER. NEW SUB. FROM THE 641... PS. SOME VIDEOS SAY THE AMAZON TOOL DOES NOT FIT?
Thanks Mike! The tool (slide hammer) that I order fits but is tight. To reach the injectors farther back would require removing the plastic ventilation cover above the engine. The Amazon link is below 👇
How do you remove the electrical thing on the injector? I cant get it out
Very helpful video ❤
Thanks for watching 😄
I’d recommend carb cleaner for the “black death” and cellulose thinners for inside of the injector bore. Oven cleaner is nasty stuff and reacts badly with aluminium. Another thing to be aware of is the seat of the bore may need re-reaming and / or polishing. There are cheap tools that can be bought for this. Gently does it though. That injector you inserted looked like it had a slot for an o-ring? Did I miss something?
Yes, the stem has a groove that would normally fit an O-ring. But many leave it out because the function of the injector is still guaranteed. But if you omit it, you can see a coking of the injector more easily, otherwise it blocks the way out of the combustion chamber to the top, which may also be worse.
Good stuff!
Thanks!
Once the stuff cools it is very easy to scrape off of the injector. Also, rather than using oven cleaner which can probably do some nasty things to other stuff in the area brake cleaner works very well and is safe for most of the components nearby.
Also it is bad for your torque wrench to continue to yank on it after it clicks over. You should switch to a different wrench or at a minimum set the torque higher.
Thanks for the tips!
Just curious . I've got 3 but my recent teng I've not yet used has a degree function . Wouod this then require a higher setting to accommodate it ?
@@kevinhancock4064 digital torque wrenches work differently than mechanical clickers and do not need to be set higher (but you still shouldn't overload their rating because that can damage the load cell that measures torque).
@@fostytou makes sense mate yeah I guess if you went say 3 quarter turn on say a head gasket bolt . I suppose that'd be littke extra ? Not enough to do damage maybe .
Mine are all mechanical
Great!
Glad you found it useful 👍
Amazing
Thank you!
when you say bolts I'm assuming injector hold down bolts....but what O rings ? or did you mean washers. Please clarify.
Yes I’m referring to the copper washers when I say “o-rings”. Sorry for the confusion
Did you have any issues with your injectors? Or engine ? Did you had any turbo or EGR going out ? Did you delete your EGR ?
No issues yet and I’ve put 50k km on it. The turbo is fine. I replaced the EGR before doing the injectors and it’s still going strong. I have a video specifically on this. I didn’t delete the EGR because I didn’t want the engine light to be permanently on.
You think putting an ring in the groove will help? The new seals kit came with orings
What o-rings are you referring too? The copper ones?
@@madetoexplore There’s a o-ring indentation around the injector and on other diesel models theres o-rings that go in there, so thought about adding one since the washer kit comes with 5 orings also
@@DECIFERTHIS09 okay, I don’t recall getting any o-rings with my kit. Are the orings rubber?
@@madetoexplore Yeah usually. Some use metal rings with a spilt in them, but these are more for clamping than sealing.
Have been soaking my bolts in pb blaster before drives in anticipation of doing this job. I should be cleaning black death as much as possible before injector removal just in case I get a little death In the injectors ?
Good idea! Yes I would clean up as much of the Black Death as possible before attempting to remove the injectors. I would recommend a wet shop vac and lots of oven cleaner. Maybe an air compressor set to a very low psi to blow everything out. Be careful and wear proper safety equipment!
@Made to Explore will add air compressor to get allll of the hard to vac spots, good idea! Just ordered tools necessary for the job because of this video, thanks!
@@madetoexplore tunap 926 will be my friend in place of oven cleaner, look into the stuff real quick
@@Stonesmetalworkchannel welcome! Good luck 👍
Did you have any copper washers get stuck? We have one that won't come out and are trying to figure out any tips or tricks to remove it. Of course it's the very last one and the most difficult to get to.
Oh no! Luckily I didn’t, but I would try to find an “L” shaped pick tool to try and stick down there.
Holly snap those freaking bolts and copper washers are expensive...I don't need them but that would be a good thing to have on hand.
How did you clean bolt threads?
Shouldn’t have to clean the bolt threads since you should be replacing the bolt? I use a wire brush and some penetrating oil to clean bolts though.
@Made to Explore I've seen some people chase the threads because it looked like you had a good amount of death in there. when putting the new bolt in there you are now cramming the death down. I've only seen one guy do it across maybe 5 videos though. If you have yet to have issues seems like something I won't really have to deal with but with the kit linked I might get in there a little bit
I'm very surprised that you didn't clean the injector nozzles while they were out. I would have overhauled them and made sure they produced a nice mist.
I attempted to clean the tips as much as I could. How do you test to see if they have a nice mist?
@@madetoexplore hi. There are a couple of videos online. Most people just power them up and then squirt cleaner through them but there is also another showing how to take them to pieces and then clean them in an ultrasonic bath.
@@RayBrennan I will keep that in mind for next time! Thanks for the tips
Late reply but i would go for a closed loop diesel purge instead, after installation.
When say the seals , do you mean the Copper washers at the bottom of the injectors?
@@Leo70780 yes
How many ppund you put in bolt
62 inch pounds plus 90 degrees
@@madetoexplore 👍
Why can injectors become covered in oil?
My #2 is leaking. How do i know if I need a new injector or not?
You’ll have to perform a leak back test. There’s a ton of videos on TH-cam about this
Thanks
@@bah5310 welcome! Goodluck
How does she run now ?
Fantastic!
So if I were to replace all of mine including the equipment needed to do it how much are we talking?? Because mines not looking so sexy but I'd been quoted £400 ish to have all 4 cleaned
@@bradfrancis8253 that would depend on how stuck the injectors are. If they all pop out easily then it may only cost 100 Euro. If they are stuck then you may have to buy some special tools. 400 euros isn’t a bad price tho!
I let it do. injectors can get so stuck. Sometimes more than 15 tons of force is needed to get them out. here in the Netherlands there are companies that have special tools for this. Pull them out like a no time.I recently had to replace my glow plugs, one of them also had to be drilled out. And the rear is hard to reach. I have no experience with that. If it goes wrong then. it's just going to be an expensive joke
Yeah, it’s unfortunate Mercedes designed it this way.
oven cleaner and aluminum foil = exothermic reaction creating hydrogen gas..... FYI
Interesting. That’s a good thing to know! Thanks for sharing
O torke
No need for coding ? Curious
Nope! If you replace the injector itself I think it does require coding
@@madetoexplore thanks I've seen it's often simple as long as diag. Tool supports it
calling it black death isnt helping the fact mine is really bad but drives fine..... I'm researching how to to do the job now but man. that title description doesn't help the over all confidence lol. can you explain the DEATH part? Like making it sound unfixable if its in fact very black like mine is.
Everything is fixable man! It’s good you realized you had it before it was to late
right before Im about to do this job I read if it's stuck in there good and you end up having to remove the top and use the socket-looking tool to pull the injector up, that you cannot reuse the injector. does this damage the injector somehow? I was gearing up to crank it up, clean it up, and try and save some money by reusing the old injector yet replacing just the washer and the new hold down bolt. I cant figure out why they don't recommend reusing the old injector. seems to be working. just now have a fear of damaging it If i need to use the tool. Which I'm sure i will have to do.
Showed us nowt .
For three quarters of the video
Good thing you can fast forward
every time you stuck that blue paper towel in the hole and twisted it i had to cringe at the thought of leaving behind any shreds
I was a little worried about that too but as long as your careful and don’t soak the towel to much, it works great.
Pfffffffff, black death. This is tame compared to the ones I've had recently.
Yikes! Got any tips and tricks to share?
Dont use oven cleaner it pits the aluminium.
As long as you don’t let the oven cleaner sit on the surface for a long period of time its fine. I never had any pitting.
🤦Really buying from a dealership? Maybe the bolts, but genuine bosch washers are available in packs of 20 for pennies!
That injector isn't clean. It needs to be spotless. The copper washer has grooves that grip the tip if you bought genuine bosch injector parts.
Sometimes dealership are the quickest way to get a part when you need it fast. Especially when you live in Canada. I didn’t want to wait 5-10 days. The only way to clean it further would’ve been to lightly sand it which wasn’t necessary. Yes the genuine copper washer do have groves.
@@madetoexplore Normally the opposite in the UK, Stealerships all "Order for next day". I got lucky ordering parts for my OM642 engine. Most gaskets were on the shelf - I did drive to a Main Dealer hub though.
A good seller online or a bosch shop would have sent the washers out pretty much next day. Currently dealling with a jammed injector in a volvo. You can feel that the injector is tight all the way in to the block. Thats wire wheeled and the block drilled out with a wooden dowel. Anyway. You're fixed, I am nearly done. Bosch washers are pretty standard. Pick up a pack of 20 from a diesel shop!
@@madetoexplore part number F 00V C17 503.
Give that to a bosch dealer or type it in on the Internet, packs of 10 genuine bosch washers. I figured out why mine coked up. My bolts had loosened up. Releasing the injector. You also need to watch to make sure they don't get "wire drawn" where combustion etches itself a path along whatever surface it chooses. Normally the copper, which is why shops have a specific tool to clean out the injector seat on the head. Milling a tiny bit of Ali off.
Ugh. Mechanics are terrible video editors. If the content of your video is a van, its like an unwritten rule that the duration has to be over 15 minutes. Like this video could easily be 1:05 tops. I cant watch it.
I’m not a mechanic and no one’s making you watch it ✌️