I have been a manufacturing specialist with Rolls-Royce aero for 45 years. Nothing impresses me with engineering any more I’ve seen it all! However I have to say this video is absolutely bloody marvellous well done thank you very much!
Hi, just wanted to say thanks very much for the feedback. I feel very humbled to receive a comment like this from someone with your background and experience! It makes me feel encouraged to continue to try to produce high quality content. :-)
Revive My Ride What a lovely reply thank you. It was a pleasure to watch, very simple explaination. I was particularly impressed with the finish you got on the seats after cutting with such a rudimentary tool, and coating it with cutting compound was a good idea to keep the swarf out of the cylinder! You are a proper engineer! Good luck buddy.
Just the way it should be done very few mechanics do it like this when I was a mechanic finishing in the 90s I carried out repairs with the same proficiency well done brother your a dying breed ,I’d trust you on my Mercedes any time ,hats off to you.👍🏻👏🏻👏🏻👏🏻👏🏻
Thanks! Glad you enjoyed the video! I’ve got a video coming up on Mercedes front coil springs and will be going for a similar style of information delivery 👍
99% of all youtubers should learn from U how to make a video. I have to thank u for making this very good video. It is informativ and pleasent to watch - neither did I get any stressydrom. Just fantastic how easy U make it.
This is the best technical video with clear explanation for injector removal I’ve ever watched on TH-cam. Thanks for your time and effort. Subscribed 👍
Just following your instructions to a 'T' as one of my injectors from my Merc GL320 CDI has the 'Black Death.' Fantastic lesson at a perfect speed for a first timer down here in Adelaide, Australia. Thank you so very much - I've subscribed, thank you.
Hi George, thanks for your comment, glad you liked the video! Just a favour to ask - I have actually introduced music on my later videos, although I try to keep it in the background most of the time. If you have time, would be interested to hear what you think about the music in them - annoying? or ok? Thanks!
Lets start with a huge THANKS&GRATITUDE 🤗 Hands down the best mechanic walkthrough I've seen! I'm actually so impressed that I can't even express myself.... all the positive good words in the dictionary go to you my man😇
Thank you so much for your kind words!! I'm speechless! Feedback like this makes the hard work that goes into the videos worth it! Cheers and best wishes, Phil
This is a great video; just the right amount of detail and I with no knowledge of cars could follow along. Alas… this issue is exactly what I have at this time. I have a query I hope viewers may answer - I have a 2007 2.2 diesel E class, 152000 miles on the clock. I live in Scotland. I had the car in for an MOT last month and whilst having the MOT work done the mechanic also diagnosed an issue with an injector that was producing the ‘hiss hiss’ sound. I have to say I never noticed any big issues with the car's engine/overall performance prior to the visit. He installed a single new injector and I understand washers too but on return of the car to me the car was vibrating noticeably whilst an idle. I took the car back, he performed more work and the roughness subsided for about 3 weeks only for the roughness to return yesterday. I recall him telling me the injector was difficult to remove. From watching this video I have just had a look at the injector/cyclinder head area. I can clearly see heavy black wet deposits and clearly see and feel the ‘hiss hiss’. The injectors were very easy to locate. The replacement injector is ( i think) not clamped down with a torx screw... whereas the other 3 injectors are. Video of my car - th-cam.com/video/ip99tlKHf_o/w-d-xo.html I will clean the area up today and give the car to the mechanic tomorrow. The car drives ok, I did 2 50 mile trips ok before noticing a repeat of the fault and this video but other symptoms are the rev counter wavers at idle and the vibration (annoying as hell !) when idle. There are no warning lights on dashboard BTW. Can anyone comment on what has resulted in the ‘hiss hiss’ returning after 3 weeks and what the mechanic must do from here on to fully resolve the issue ? I also understand from comments that the new injector must also be coded ? I do not know if coding was done as I only discovered this aspect last night. I recall the mechanic telling me that if the injector was worn it can have an effect on it's alignment with the cylinder head which could result in the repair job outweighing the value of the car… comments please ? £500 paid so far (ex MOT work) so I am keen to get this issue fixed at no further cost to me. Thanks all.
Thank you very much! Good luck with the work, hopefully the carbon deposits aren’t too bad on yours, clean up is the time consuming part of the job. Cheers, Phil
@ReviveMyRide did an oil change four weeks ago. It was clean, only noticed smoke coming out of the engine the other day, and was shocked a pool of black goo all over the first injector leaking to the second looks like a mess got four cans of carbon cleaner. 😳
I'm about to change my air filters, when I do I shall be inspecting my injectors. If clear of black death I'll still inspect every 5000 miles. Thanks for a very clear concise video.
Thanks for your comment! Sounds like a good plan! Best not to mess with the injectors unless you have to, the seals may never fail and there is always the risk of accidentally causing a problem when doing this king of work.
As a qualified diesel fitter I find your video very informative with great explanation on not just how it is done but also why you need to do it that way. Lots of videos dont tell people the "why" part. Also a lot of videos show the job being performed with shifters and tools that can end up with other issues due to them not really being the best choice. Yes, not everyone has the right tools and like you have shown, researching ahead and buying thr right tools helps avoid disasters. This is why for most people workshops are too expensive due to the outlay and overhead costs being so large. You have managed to give a great tutorial for novices on how to perform the job without causing further damage. Well done mate. A lot of people will benefit from your efforts. Cheers
Leanne Krosch, really appreciate your comments! I'm always interested in trying to cover what tools are required and why. As you say, a lot of people (diy) will do this job as a one off, so I try to find cost effective specialist tools. Hopefully people can watch the video and decide if they want to tackle the job or send it to a specialist such as yourself. Thanks!
I have a T1N Sprinter that is now slightly over 100k miles. I have not inspect under the cover yet but thinking that sooner or later I will need to perform out this cured work. Thanks for putting the time and care in making this video. It is the best out there in clarity.
Hi @richbrett7268 Thanks for the kind comment! I wouldn't let the leaking fuel injection issue put you off of these cars. The OM642 is a fantastic engine apart from this small issue. If tackled early (just check it from time to time), it's actually quite an easy fix... Cheers, Phil
Great! I do make a small commission from purchases from the link but the real reason the links are there are to help people out with the exact tools they need. Glad they helped you out 👍 Cheers, Phil
An excellent video, well presented. However, two issues, firstly there was no mention about which way around the copper washer goes. The domed surface faces the injector. The second issue is in the way the copper washer is fitted. If you rely on the friction fit to the injector tip, as you lower the assembly into the hole, if the washer falls off it can turn in the bore and end up the wrong way around. I use a long thin cable tie, slide the copper washer up the cable tie and lower into the hole until the tip of the plastic has entered the cylinder. Release the copper washer and it will end up in place facing the correct way. Remove the cable tie and you can then lower the injector into the hole and continue with the assembly.
Hi, thanks for your comment and the extra info! I did research the topic of the washer. Info was hard to find but everything I found said that it could be fitted either way up. I did all 6 of mine, so some were bound to be a mix of dome shape up and down but I haven’t seen any issues… I don’t suppose there is any information that you can link to is there? If not, no worries I’ll take your word for it, you seem to have experience! Thanks, Phil
Hi, I have the official Merc workshop manual and there is no info given. Rightly or wrongly, I decided to fit the domed end of the copper washer onto the alloy head rather than the injector. I've not had any issues. The logic being, I'd rather the rounded, or domed face of the copper washer come into contact with the aluminium seat thus minimising the risk of the copper washer causing any localised deformation of the alloy seating face. Even though I know the cooper washer is softer than the aluminium head. Also, pressure = force divided by area. The marginally smaller the area (due to the rounded rather than square sheared edge of the copper washer), the greater the sealing pressure on the copper washer for the same bolting force. I didn't have to recut my seats as they looked in very good condition. So, I figured if there was any minor irregularities in the alloy seat, the copper washer would have a marginally greater pressure on it to 'flow' into them and in theory a better chance of sealing. That said, it probably doesn't make any real difference! I've not had any issues since. I'll note the orientation next time I remove a set of injectors. I have to do that soon to replace the rocker / valve cover on my W447 - which is annoying!
As others have said, a great video, thank you! I have a problem though that I'm hoping someone on here may be able to answer. I have the same engine (installed in a Merc 320 CDI, 2008). All has gone well so far with my injector seal replacement, but I'm now stuck at the seat-cutting/reaming stage. The video clearly shows the use of a 17mm flat cutting head, and other references I've found (not that there are many) also recommend the use of the 17mm flat cutter. However, in my case, the 17mm cutter appears only to be making its mark on the very outer surface of the seat, as if the actual injector seat is a 15mm diameter face inset a few mm below a 17mm bore. (at 17:41 in the video, you can see what appears to be a raised 'ring' surrounding the main circular area of the seat). From what I've read, only light pressure is required on the cutting tool, but I've applied more pressure more times than I'm now comfortable with, and still the cutter does not appear to be making contact with the primary face of the seat. I've tried the 15mm cutter and this does appear to make full contact with the seat face, so perhaps my seat is in fact 15mm? The only problem I have with that is that the copper washer is known to be 15mm in diameter, so surely this tolerance is too tight? Surely the 15mm washer should fit into a 17mm seat, thereby allowing the washer to expand as the hold-down clamp stretch-bolt is tightened? Any thoughts, anyone? Should I perservere with the 17mm cutter or are some of these engines equipped with injectors that use 15mm seats rather than 17mm?
Hi, hopefully others will see your message and contribute their experience too. However your comment has jogged my memory. Somewhere in the comments someone else mentioned using a smaller cutter for the reason you describe. Also, I cut a couple of seats on my car (didn’t show them all) and I’m pretty sure on one one of them, the casting near the bottom about 10mm above the seat was a little narrow for the 17mm cutter, maybe by about 1mm? I was very patient with the cutter and persevered with it. I kept cleaning the debris off of the blade and applying more grease. Eventually the cutter took a small “skim” out of the casting in the bore which allowed it to reach down to the seat. I then cleaned up the seat with the cutter as normal. Hope that helps and the description made sense!
@@ReviveMyRide Hi, great to see your comprehensive reply, many thanks! Yes, the issue you describe is exactly what I found with this injector bore (thankfully I only had to do one). Your description of your own experience, coupled with your comment that you'd read about someone else needing to use a smaller cutter gave me some reassurance. In the end, I reasoned that the injector had come out of the existing bore and therefore it should be happy being returned to a bore of the same diameter, so I stuck with the 15mm cutter. I also used the Honda-manufactured copper washer that you suggested (and also recommended by other DIY enthusiasts). In my case, the extra thickness of this washer (when compared with the Mercedes original) served to compensate for the material I had to remove from the injector seat (see below), so this was a good call. I'm now pleased to report complete success with ths job, so many thanks again for making and posting such an informative video. Incidentally, the seat of my actual injector had been eroded by the blowback gasess, so in addition to cutting the bore seat I also had to reface the injector as well! (If anyone is iinterested in how I did this, please ask/comment and I'll explain). This took some effort, especially bearing in mind the need to keep the injector face level and flat. I was actually on the point of replacing the injector, but I changed my mind when I learned that new/replacement injectors need to be CODED to the car's ECU! I now understand why this is, but it's a fact of which, until now, I was ignorant. So please bear this in mind if you go down the replacement route. Obviously a garage can do the coding (at additional cost) and I understand that some of the newer, high-end code readers can also code injectors. If the coding isn't done, anything from poor runnning to the car failing to start can occur, so it's an essential step. It also applies if you swap the positions of the existing injectors as they are coded for their positions as well as their individual operating characteristics.
@@willcram8350 hi, thanks for your reply above, all really interesting stuff! Good work refinishing the sealing face on the injector! None of mine were damaged but I had heard that it can happen, most people replace the injector but as you say, apart from the cost of a new injector, that then introduces the need for coding etc. One thing I didn’t know (and thanks for sharing) was the implications of not coding. I thought it led to a slight loss of running performance (minor trimming of the fuelling due to injector calibration) not that it could cause non start and other significant problems. I actually had another viewer asking me about coding and non start on FB, so I forwarded on the info you shared! Anyway, good work and happy days that you got it all sorted! 😎🙌👍 thanks, Phil
@@willcram8350 hi! Thank you for your input on seat cutting and productive discussion with the author! Would really love to read how you re-surfaced the injector seat. Thanks.
Thanks for the DIY description_Video : fantastic, and happiness here on the 2005- E220CDI 329000 km, and thanks for links to the tools ! Cheers from Norway !
Hi @cat1stevens nice to have a viewer from Norway! Thank you for your kind comments, glad you liked the video 👍 329,000km! That's almost 200,000 miles (sorry we are slow to catch on with metric for driving distances in the UK 😂) Best wishes for many more happy miles in your Mercedes! These are good cars with good engines and transmissions... Thanks, Phil
@@ReviveMyRide have had 2 changes on the circuit-board on the AT, as i managed to brake a pin, when i changed the adapter, for the controlcable during oilchange , and back in 2016, i had to repair the ECU: Thanks to Steven Lewis :th-cam.com/video/kynXjan7O0Q/w-d-xo.html (computer-error-that was solved using BDM-100)
@@cat1stevens That is one of the risks when doing planned maintenance, it is possible to intrude problems. Glad you got it sorted, will check out your links for future reference 👍 cheers, Phil
just come across your channel - looking at getting a C Class Coupe for my wife - had heard horrible things about the 'Black death' and the costs to solve - you have just put my mind at rest and I know now what to look for and how to solve if necessary. Great work - keep it up
Thanks for your comment and glad that the video was helpful! I think they are great cars and as long as you are aware of this issue, then you can keep an eye on it and if necessary, catch it and fix it early before it becomes a big issue. cheers!
@norfolkbushmanandfriends791 That's great to hear! Appreciate the comment! 👍😎 BTW, I have an E350 cabriolet that I fixed up from salvage, If you didn't see it the videos are on my channel. Great car!
I found that a spray can of starting fluid with one of those little red extension tubes was very helpful to clean the debris out of the bolt hole that holds the injector down. Then another can of compressed air blows the starting fluid out. It made the bolt hole extremely clean and prevented the bolt from bottoming out to soon and affecting the torque pressure.
Hi and thank you for a great channel and yes my injectors are playing up at 97000 miles on my E250 cdi bluefficiency, ime going to investigate with your help 👍👍👍
Thank you! Yes, sounds like a good idea, the earlier you tackle it the better. If early enough, less carbon clean up and often no need to recut seats 👍 cheers, Phil
Terrific video, watching you do this with your tips throughout has given me new confidence to tackle this myself, Mercedes would probably want a $1000 AUD, I can probably get it done for half that with some new tools and self-esteem, thanks for sharing, from Aussie down under.
Thanks for your comment, it's music to my ears and the reason why I try to go into such detail in the video! Also, great to have a message from down under! Take your time with it and if you have any Q's pop them on here and I'll try to help if I can! Thanks, Phil
I'm really sorry about that! Thanks for letting me know, I will go check the link! The problem is that Amazon keeps delisting the tools and then I have to go find another one. Originally, I was linked to the exact tool I used, so I knew it worked! Glad you liked the video and thanks for your comment!
MASSIVE thanks! Thanks for taking the time and effort to produce this video. Now I can keep on driving my beloved 'BRUTUS' because you've teached me how to fix my leaky fuel injector.
Thank you very much for this video, I have issues with exhaust smell inside my E320 Bluetec, checked injectors and sure one of them is leaking fumes inside engine bay. There is not much carbon build up around injectors, hope I'll be able to replace those washers. I'm going to check more of your videos because they are very informative, thank you again!
Thanks for the comment! If it is leaking injector seals, then you are right to tackle them early, the job gets much more difficult once the carbon build up starts. Glad you are enjoying the vids :-)
Great video, helpful and covered all the points, I have been told that if possible to spray some wd40 or brake cleaner around the injectors to help removal and if sludge is really bad oven cleaner to loosen that sludge
Thank you! Yes, I’ve heard that all of those products do work 👍 One thing I would have been keen to try is starting the job with a warm engine. The heat stays around for quite a while and apparently makes a big difference to getting the injectors out. Just be careful not to touch anything hot! Cheers, Phil
Thank you for the video, had mine done today and for my surprise, the middle right injector didn’t even have a washer. Only thing I didn’t have was the hammer puller so I used WD40 and a rocking movement to get them out. Did all 6. 👍🏼👍🏼👍🏼
Augusto Barale thanks for your comment, glad the video helped give you some information. Weird that a washer was missing! Yes, you are correct if you are patient and the injectors aren't stuck too badly, you can remove them exactly as you described :-)
Done that job Today. Just one injector for now, C350 so 5 more to go [ i sorta know they have a few leaks [cooler seals] . Years since i did owt like that. Did it with my 25yr old lad. Hes an engineer you know, he is ya know. knows everythin he does [Will see] . I cracked on i hadn't a clue, which i hadnt. Black death like ive never seen it , ya could chisel it out. My lad give up a few times. Went in for a warm . Apart from me breaking a clip or two. Had i watch your excellent video first. I wouldn't have broke them. We shall finish Tomorrow,see if he cottons on . Pffff, engineer my a..e....Lol. Great video, thanks so much for making and sharing fella. Go ta top at class lad.
Hi Brian, I think this is my favorite comment ever! Glad you liked the video and that it helped some. Good to see that you are getting stuck in! AND fantastic that you are working with your son on it. I work with my Dad sometimes, he's a good mechanic and I'm an engineer, so we have a similar dynamic going on! 😂
Very good contribution. Only with the "Nissan" sealing ring part number a small error. The correct number is Honda 16472RBDE00. Best regards from Germany
Hi, Thanks very much for raising this point, you are absolutely right regarding the part number! I will need to amend in in the video description above!
Just watched your video. Very, very well presented👍🏻. If I could be so bold as to maybe add a tiny tip to your great thread cleaning bolt, I would recommend applying a thin coat of grease to the slot. This helps to hold any debris collected. Another point that may or may not be important is in using a thicker sealing washer. Will using a thicker washer "lift" the injector by an amount that may cause issues in the fuel delivery? I doubt it myself but just thought I'd put that question out there. Many thanks again for your time and trouble making this informative video.
Thank you, some very good comments there! Yep, great idea about the grease on the “thread cleaning tool”. I’m pretty sure that is exactly what I did but may not have mentioned it in the video, so thanks for highlighting it! Slightly thicker injector seal - many people in the Merc community have been using this exact washer for quite a while now, so I would go so far as to say it is “proven”. It’s particularly useful if you have had to skim the seat with a cutting tool. Thanks for your contribution! 👍
Hi i have just discovered this problem with 1 of my injectors on my cls320cdi and will be having a go at doing this repair now thanks for your video 🙂👍
Hi again I done it all repaired now she runs great thanks been a while since I wanted to do them because had other issues like swirl flap motor fail and turbo actuator fail but all working and fixed thanks 👍
@@dandicey764 Great work! Even with instructions, it's still quite a technical job 👍 Glad to hear it is all sorted and you're back on the road. Thanks for the update. 🙂 Cheers, Phil
Thank you for great video and links to the tools ! I just got a call yesterday from a customer with the 3.0 diesel in a Jeep Cherokee that's leaking " blow by " around the injectors so I suspect this is the problem .
Glad the video helped you! Yep, as you say, sounds like it might be leaking injector seals. Be interesting to hear how you get on if you have time to drop a message later... Cheers, Phil
@@ReviveMyRide The engine had 4 cylinders leaking pretty bad and two thinking about it . Got the injectors pulled and ports cleaned up with some make shift tools we threw together . Replaced all 6 copper washers and the Jeep is running great on the test drive . th-cam.com/video/lY46G7Cnivo/w-d-xo.html Thanks again !
@@cranerigging3604 Thanks for sharing a video of the work that you are doing! Great to see the homemade tools that you put together and it looks like they worked really well! Keep up the good work!
I have a Jeep Crd 3.0 V6 with the Merc motor (OM642) and this is a problem I have only the right side head, my vehicle struggles to start and is underboosting and heavy on fuel. I hope this is the solution. I bought the vehicle at a bargain price and if this is the fix, I'd be sooo happy. The video was really really helpful! Great job!
Thanks for your message, good luck with sorting out the problem with yours. If you have any questions as you work through it, let me know and I will help if I can!
Thanks a lot for the step by step AND especially listing the parts needed! Just ordered the Nissan washers from UK since I figured the whole reason the seals failed initially because of the original Mercedes washers. No point of buying the same MB ones and redo this repair in the future...
Thanks for your comment! Yep, 3 years since the repair and still going strong on mine! Just to confirm, they are "Honda washers part number is 1647RBDE00), I'm sure you already know that, just mentioning it for others! I said Nissan in the video but in the description the make & part number is correct. Honda washers are a little softer, so will accommodate any imperfections in the sealing surfaces better, they are also just a little thicker, which is good if you have had to recut a seat. Hope the repair goes well for you! 👍
@@ReviveMyRide my bad ,wanted to say Honda washers (not Nissan). Of course, it's a strange sensation when you pay 50$ for 6 washers and ship them across the world 😂 but again I think it's the core component in this repair.
Little update after completing this repair. Ironically the hardest part for me was disconnecting/reconnecting the fuel return (leak) line and actually keeping the plastic retainers in one piece. Unfortunately I broke couple retainers because of the carbon deposits around the plastic and because of how fragile they are once they ve been compromised by the "black death". Ordered a new leak line.
@@ilusha55 Thanks for the update, sounds like you are making good progress! Actually, those return line clips are quite tricky and yes, if the carbon has gotten around them then it can make them brittle too. So, new part on the way and then you should be good to go. Be warned, priming the fuel system can be time consuming too! If you have issues with it, check out the comments, there should be one pinned to the top with some instructions. 👍
Hello, this is nothing to do with i njectors, but your channel is so easy to understand and precise, i was wondering if you could give me some advice regarding my e220 2007 mercedes, the parking brake seems to have come out, as in it seems not be connected to anything, prior to this, it always seemed a bit reluctant to release, i know its a long shot but you seem very clued up, thank you
Hi Charles, as it happens the release mechanism sticks on my Merc too but thankfully it still works (for now). If the mechanism fails, then it is usually due to one of the cables. Depending on your problem: If it is the release lever that feels like it is doing nothin then it could be cable item 190 in the attached diagram but in this case, the parking brake would stay on and you would struggle to get the car to move. nemigaparts.com/cat_spares/epc/mercedes/1/fg/211006/64u/42/145/ OR if it is the pedal that is failing to set the parking brake (the pedal just goes down with little or no resistance), it is most likely to be cable item 80. However, please note that if the left rear (Item 230) or right rear (item 240) cables fail you might feel some resistance but not as much as normal because just one side of the parking brake is operating. I hope this makes sense and is of use to you! If you decide to purchase a new cable, please double check part numbers before ordering and it is worth checking with the Mercedes dealers because they are generally very helpful and surprisingly competitive on prices for some parts. It would be great to hear how you get on if you have time to message back! Cheers, Phil
@@ReviveMyRide Good afternoon Phil, first of all let me wish you a happy and healthy new year, thank you for your response, l am not much good with mechanics, but after seeing your videos it might be worth having a look at the park brake system if it isnt too complicated,, i will let you know the outcome thanks again
Very well done mate and hello from Eastern Canada. One injector just started to leak on my 2008 Jeep Grand Cherokee WK. I hear a poofing noise and smell the gases inside the passenger area. I bought the 6-bolt and 6-seal kit from IDParts $24.95 US and the ceramic grease. I'm going to use one of the old bolts for the thread cleaning tool. They will all get replaced. The Rocal cutting compound is an excellent product we use it at my shop for thread cutting, a little bit goes a long way. A bit toxic so use with care. Thanks again.
Great to hear from a viewer from Canada! Sounds like you know what you are doing but glad you found the video useful! Good idea to chance all of the seals once one has failed and they are super easy to change if there is no carbon build up. Hope it all goes smoothly for you! Thanks, Phil
A very hard , Black Tar-Like substance has appeared around the nearest injector, since 3 months ago , on my 2010 313cdi Mercedes Sprinter van 😳 .... it was " chuffing " initially, but that's stopped for some reason - How urgent would you see it needs attention ? Love your videos , very clear and informative 👍 Thank You.
Hi Don, chances are that you will be ok for a while (say a few months) if you keep an eye on it but that black tar is the problem. It is what makes the repair time consuming and costly. Also, the "seat" at the bottom of the injector bore becomes damaged with time and that is why you have to re-cut them. If you catch it early, often the seat is ok and only the copper washer needs to be changed. The sooner you catch it, the easier the work is. Probably it started "chuffing" but now the tar is muffling the sound and it has become a slow creep. Although I didn't show it in the video, I changed all of the copper washers (all six injectors) on my car. On the ones, where there was little or no tar, it was a doddle and I changed the washers very quickly. You have done well to spot it early, so that it will be a faster and easier repair. Hope this helps!
Don, thanks for your feedback, glad you liked the video. I am in the middle of a house move right now but have some footage for videos that I hope to upload in the New Year! Thanks!
Great video I have a 2008 GL 320 with 135000 miles No issues yet thank goodness When you cut the seat, I assume that there was nothing preventing dirt from going into the engine ...
Hi, thanks for your comment! You are doing the right thing to keep an eye on it and to only intervene if you see a problem developing. It may never happen on your vehicle! You are correct that during the seat recutting process, there is a risk of cuttings falling into the cylinder. I minimised this by using a cutting compound both to improve the cutting quality but also to capture the swarfe. I didn't let the cutter blades get too full either and withdrew the tool regularly, cleaned away the cuttings and reapplied with new cutting compound several times. Cheers, Phil
To answer your point about why this is common: this happens to all Direct injection diesels regardless of manufacturer, made since approx 2006. To comply with euro emissions legislation, car manufacturers introduced stricter EGR and DPF measures but, crucially didn't fit oil catch cans. This meant that there was lots of blowback carbon and oil floating around the intake and fuel systems. A decent oil catch can will prevent this from happening again - I've fitted on on my BMW (sorry lol) 2008 5 series and have exactly the "Black Death" that you refer to - loud ticking and, on inspection really hard carbon deposits around the top of 3/4 injectors. I have a video on the catch can - have done another better one which is going up next week. Hth
Hi Jonathan, thank you for sharing your experience but I just have a question based on what you wrote. My understanding is that the Mercedes diesel is susceptible to the injector seal (copper at the bottom of the injector) deteriorating and that this is due to a suboptimal clamping system used on these engines. Are you saying that oily emissions recirculating through the intake (EGR system) contributes to premature failure of the seal? Or are you talking about a different phenomenon? Thanks!
Thank you so much! Question though, I assume the injector face where it sits on the seal needs to be perfect? Mine has a slight groove for about 30 degrees around. And although it's better now, it's still chuffing. Also what size cutting tool do you use for these? Lastly, what is it that keeps the injector held down TIGHT, just that little wishbone? Thank you sir.
Hi, The seat damage will almost certainly be causing you problems. I used a flat 17mm cutter but it did shave a tiny amount of material from the bore walls down near the bottom (probably because it is a cast part). Yes, just the little "wishbone" bracket holding down the injector but please take special note of the part in the video where I am clearing out the threaded hole for the bolt that holds it down. If there is debris in there, the bolt won't go down fully. Check the description for the part number for the Honda seal, these work better than the Merc ones. Also, if you are going to remove it again, ideally you need a new bolt. Hope that helps! Thanks, Phil
Hi Tony, thanks for your feedback, glad you liked the video! Yes, you are right, I haven't loaded up a new one for a while. I have some really good footage from an auto transmission oil and filter change that I will try to edit and get loaded up soon!
Hi, great videos as always, followed the instructions in your gearbox video made the job easier than I expected, just a quick question the feed from the fuel rail to the injector will that be pressurised ? Will it normal therefore to have some residual fuel come out of the connector? Will make sure the battery is disconnected
Hi, yes, if the engine has been running recently, it will be pressurised and it is very high pressure at the injector too. This does dissipate quickly once the joint is cracked though. I left the car overnight before starting the job and there was no pressure there. I know a lot of people advocate doing this job with a warm engine as it makes the injectors easier to remove, so it must be possible to undo the fuel connection if the car has been running recently, just be careful and maybe wear gloves as a precaution. Cheers, Phil
@@ReviveMyRide thank you for your reply, I’m going to tackle this job this weekend, cylinder 2 is flagging up on my diagnostic reader, the cars presenting with a rough idle, going to switch the injector with one of the others to diagnose whether it’s the injector or maybe the wiring or ecu. Wish me luck. Thank you again, your a legend all your videos are very informative
Great, I make these videos so that hopefully people will want to and have the info they need to do more of their own DIY! Hope you get on ok with it, let me know if I can be of any help!
Nice video, thank you. My om642 only has 70k km and still looks prestine, but I like to have all the parts in stock for future endeavors... just one silly question, why not use one of the old bolts as your cleaning bolt? I just state that because most complete kits only come with the 6 bolts. Cheers 🍺
I wish i had this 2 years ago when my 2007 jeep GC had injector 1 get all crapped up. I used a 13mm crows foot to get the injector to loosen up by rotating. I did not use the seafoam and wish i knew of that before. But i do have a 2005 MB CDI with a bad black death in injector 6 that i will use that technique to fix. I also read on a forum to ensure the hold down bolt doent bottom out was to cut about 1-2mm off the bottom and recut the threads so they go down smooth. I used laquer thinner to clean everything out in the whole for two reasons. First it liquefied the black crud and i was able to blow it out of the holes, and two, it evaporated very fast and thus if any leaked into the cylinder, it would quickly evaporate. Again thanks it was what i essentially did as well.
kamaksi24 thanks for sharing your experience! The lacquer thinner was a good idea and probably worked better for cleaning out the bolt hole. I used some Seafoam down the retaining bolt hole but then needed to prod some clean cloth down the hole a lot of times to be sure it is clear. Interesting idea to cut the bolt back a little because the big risk is the bolt bottoming out and either not holding the injector tight enough or shearing through over torquing. Again, thanks for sharing, helps us all learn!
@@ReviveMyRide Oh i agree 100%! i already looked for the seafoam for the next round of black death and maybe even try it on the next round of glow plugs.
Andrew Smith Welcome to the channel and thanks for subscribing! I cleaned the outside of the injectors using the "Seafoam" (there is a link in the description for the Seafoam if you aren't familiar with it and want to read the product info) and a green scotch bright pad. Hope that helps! Cheers, RMR
@@ReviveMyRide Thanks for the quick response. In your video you say Nissan injector seal. Your link also says Nissan injector seal in the video description but the part number is for a Honda. I just want to make sure that I am getting what is recommended. Can you please clarify? Thanks
@@andrewsmith9980 Hi, thanks for pointing this out! I can confirm that it is a Honda injector seal. Sorry for any confusion, I can't change the video but I have updated the description and added the info to a comment pinned to the top of the comments section. Cheers, RMR
I know there is very little difference but my understanding is 7 mm Then 90 + 90, not 8 mm 90+90. I also have read that the Honda copper seals are good to use too.
I used honda copper seal...same as the nissan,thicker and softer they work better than the mercedes. I used a wood dowel and glued sand paper to clean injector seat... crazy job but saved a ton of money...
Did you have to re learn the ecu for the new injectors? Mercedes says that we have to and if we do would it be okay to drive it to them if they aren’t learned into the system?
Hi, I reused the existing injectors, so I didn't run into this problem. I've never replaced a Mercedes injector, so haven't run into this problem before. I suspect that you may know more about this than I do but here is a link where a few MB forum members are talking about the coding. forums.mbclub.co.uk/threads/do-cdi-injectors-need-programming.32558/ Apparently, coding is to optimise the injector to run with the ECU, it doesn't mean that it won't run at all. On separate posts I have read about plenty of owners who have fitted injectors without coding them it, just monitored engine performance and fuel economy but its a personal choice.... Thanks, Phil
Hi Gaz, Really sorry about that! The kit I used went out of stock, so I had to link to a new one! Thanks for letting me know, I have corrected the link. Cheers, Phil
Hi, you can just replace the bad one, it should be quite obvious but tbh, I did all of mine in the theory that if one had gone, the others wouldn’t be far behind. Also, the longest part of the job is getting the injector out (if there is carbon around it) and cleaning up around where you’ve had a leaking injector. On injectors where the seal hasn’t started leaking yet, you will change them very quickly. Hope that helps! Cheers, Phil
Great documentation. I suppose the 220cdi engine will have to be done in a similar fashion. I’m having exhaust fumes in the cabin at standstill and have noticed the pfft sound at idle.
Hi Ole, yes, from your description, it definitely sounds like a leaking injector seal. I just checked the diagrams and some of the part numbers are slightly different between the two engines but the clamp and seal arrangement looks very similar. Please be aware that the clamp and securing screw for your engine is a different part number but the seal itself is the same. I recently carried out a 2yr inspection following the repair I did on my car, with good results :-) It's not that difficult to do if you take your time and take a methodical approach. Inspection video if you want to check it out (but it is on the v6 engine again) th-cam.com/video/7weS1vQ_1OI/w-d-xo.html Thanks, Phil
@@ReviveMyRide I did the old “mechanic’s stethoscope” aka a tube in the ear test yesterday and clearly the #1 cylinder from the right front wheel is making the noise, the other three are quiet. I’ll order parts and a sliding hammer, just in case today. There’s no black stuff to be seen yet, we may have caught it very early. Thanks for your videos and reply. I’ll post my findings and results. I’ll send you videos and pictures if you find them useful for your channel. PS: i did. watch your follow-up video. Great results on that one ☝️
@@olewurtz7625 Hi, yes, great idea, I haven't used the mechanics stethoscope method for a while but it can be very effective! Yes, if you don't mind and have the time, it would be great to see your results. Hope the work goes well, sounds like you know what you are doing! 👍
@@ReviveMyRide I finally manned up and went for the offending injector (seal). I should have bought a seal cutting tool in advance. Buy from Amazon and you can return, if unused. But I didn’t, so no I have to see if a local tool supply shop has one tomorrow, because my wife needs the car running by Tuesday and Amazon’s earliest delivery is Wednesday. I’ve taken some pictures, where can I send them to you ? PS: I’m pretty sure I need to refinish the seat. I have matching traces of blow through on the seat and the washer. Don’t you think so ?
@Ole Wurtz Yeah, it can be difficult if you need the car running and this type of work can be time consuming! If you have inspected the seat (and cleaned it with a bit of emery cloth) and you can see tracks or damage in the seat, then you are right, you will need to recut it. But when you do, take your time and cut out the minimum of material required to get the seat clean again. I'm happy to look at pictures, but sometimes it is difficult to tell from a photo. Thanks, Phil
Hi, Sorry, I made this video aeons ago, so sometimes the tool gets delisted and I have to choose another equivalent. Pretty much any cost effective slide hammer that has the right attachment onto the fuel injector should do the job! Cheers, Phil
Hi, glad you are enjoying the videos, thanks for your feedback! I just work on cars as a hobby, so I'm unlikely to ever have a van to work on. But if I do, I will defo do a video, I know there are a lot of them out there and so it would make a good video for my viewers!
Thanks for the feedback, really kind of you to subscribe. As I'm sure you know, Subscribers are everything to a TH-cam channel! Hopefully I will produce another video that you find useful!
My 2012 ML350 W166 got done at 87k and problem was already really bad, so 60k would be a good place to do the change of copper seals, which is what my mechanic also recommended.
Makes sense. I think if had done mine earlier, I could have avoided the carbon cleanup, which can be time consuming. With these engines, this problem is more a “when” rather than an “if”, so scheduling it in like a maintenance take makes sense!
This is a tricky one! I also have found a few different methods and torque levels for these bolts. All I can suggest is find the info source that you trust and go with it. What I will say is that the bolts break very easily, personally I will be trying less torque next time, maybe the 7Nm + 2x 45deg as you suggest. Cheers, Phil
Great Video and Very motivational. My car was parked just because of this since last year ( i really loved this diesel) After i watched your video i decided to fix everything and i did as i learned from you that take time and be patience with everything ordered all the parts and Tools needed or you recommended. I just finished everything and i made sure everything is up to its standard as you explained. Now car is not starting i try to start is couple of times to take the air out of fuel system. Car doesn't start now , before it was running and battery is good as well. Any recommendations?? What i look into next ?
Hi, it sounds like you did everything right. Sometimes the diesel can take a like of priming, and especially if you have changed all of the seals and therefore, all of the injectors have been disconnected. The best thing you can do is to charge up your battery again and try again by turning the key to run the fuel pump for a few seconds and then then turn it back off again. Do this at least half a dozen times and then try again cranking to start. Here is a link that will give you extra info about this problem, it is very common: forums.mercedesclub.org.uk/index.php?threads/bleeding-fuel-after-pipe-pump-repair-w210-e320-cdi.128019/ Just one extra thing to add. If you follow the advice in the link to loosen a connection near the injector a little and to crank the car (to bleed the fuel through), don't go anywhere near the engine with your hands etc while you are cranking / running the engine , the fuel is under very high pressure and a very fine spray of fuel can easily cut your skin. Hope this helps, please let me know how you get on! Thanks, Phil
@@ReviveMyRide Thank You so much for your prompt response, i can't thank you much after reading the thread you shared i find out the possible cause it was the air in the system in my case my car was in the my garage due to a little incline it was nose up so i jacked it up from behind, fuel tank was around a quarter tank i put more fuel to half the tank and battery was all drained due to cranking again and again and so put the battery on a charger and left the car for a day. Next day came back did the self air out sequence few times with and then very first times when i cranked it started. Woow great I can't thank you much with your help i was able to revive my ride and now i have confidence in it. In this process i also put new fuel filter, new air intake seals and also new air filters .
@@tayyabir5873 Great work Reviving Your Ride! Glad you got it sorted out and will now be back on the road! Thanks for your comment above, it's really great to hear back from you and to know you got it fixed. 😁
Thanks a lot for the vid! Helped me out big time, will have to do this to my car. I have just one injector leaking slightly, and not nearly as bad as in this example, but will probably change all the seals while i am at it as preventive maintenance. Any tips on cleaning the injectors themeselves? Thanks again
Hi, glad the video has helped you and thanks for your comment! :-) There are videos on TH-cam, where people have shown how to build a DIY fuel injector cleaning rig and run cleaning solutions through their injectors. This can help the injectors go back to supplying fuel in a mist, rather than as a stream and give better combustion. Be careful though, running the cleanser through your injectors can cause a flammable atmosphere, so you need to be aware and takes steps to prevent a fire. I haven't tried this myself but it is one of the things I am interested in doing on my Merc!
@@ReviveMyRide hi mate, hopefully you can help me again, 👍...tell me, have you any videos on slow to start e220cdi w211 in hard frosty conditions, it turns 3-4 times before it finally lights up, is it air in the fuel lines? Do I Change the seals, can they be changed? What do you think, you been a great help in the past🤞, thanks in advance
@@thebull4358 Hi, I don't have a video on this yet but will try to give some advice! You will know how your car behaves better than me but in my experience, diesels are always slower starting in cold weather. A few ideas though: 1) They have the glow plugs to help with cold weather starting. I'm sure you already do this but when starting the car from cold, always make sure you turn the ignition on but then wait for the yellow glow plug symbol on the dash to go off before starting it. In addition, in my car, I have found that once the glow plug light goes off, if I wait an extra 3-4 seconds, it starts more easily. 2) Is the engine turning over on the starter motor noticeably slower? If so, the battery may be getting past its best (batteries don't like cold weather and once they get old, it is in the winter when they fail) but make sure you check the battery terminals & clamps to make sure they are clean and have a good connection first before replacing the battery. To do this, I disconnect the terminals, clean the terminal with sand paper, clean the inside of the clamps with sand paper and then reconnect (put some grease on the terminals / clamps afterwards to keep them clean for longer). 3) I don't think this applies to you but I will mention it just in case. If the car turns over many times (7 or 8 times) and then times out (fails to start), and you have to try again, then it is possible that it is the glow plug control module. Read the car for codes using an inexpensive OBD2 reader and see if there are any showing. 4) Finally, if you remove the engine cover and there isn't lots of carbon building up around the injectors, then you can rule out the "black death" leaking fuel injectors. It's a biggish job, so I would investigate the other points 1-3 above first. Hope this helps, let me know how you get on and if you have any other questions! Cheers, RMR
@@ReviveMyRide I was looking to get myself an ML320 CDI, yesterday, checked the MOT history and on the Monitor and repair if necessary section has Injector leaking gasses and Noise from steering column area - no play detected; can you advise?
@@brownoforrington8310 If it is a car you want, you can ask the owner about both of these things. Ask if they have had them fixed and if so, if they have the receipt. If not, you could use the info as bargaining material. With the leaking injector, you can pop off the engine cover and have a look for carbon build up. Also, you would usually be able to smell it in the cabin. Sorry, with steering, I haven't heard of that issue, you would need to assess it on a test drive and again, depends on if the price of the car is worth the risk of a repair being required. new rack? just a new knuckle joint and shaft (where it meets the rack)? I watched a video recently for an Audi and it was just the knuckle joint and it just needed some grease. Hope this helps somewhat, there are never any guarantees with car faults & repairs!
Hi Geoff, Sorry for the slow reply! Yes, I think you should use a thin coat of grease on the outside of the injector body (not essential though!). At 17:50 in the video, I apply some copper grease BUT you have to be careful to keep the grease away from the seal. Ceramic grease is actually the best grease to use. Thanks, Phil
thank you for the video….my c320 is suffering from “black death” on one cilinder. In the video around 19:40 you tighten the bolt with 8 NM and the you tighten it again with two times 90 degrees…why? I mean wat is the use of starting off with 8 NM and followed by 2 times 90 degrees? Thanks for explaining
I have been a manufacturing specialist with Rolls-Royce aero for 45 years. Nothing impresses me with engineering any more I’ve seen it all! However I have to say this video is absolutely bloody marvellous well done thank you very much!
Hi, just wanted to say thanks very much for the feedback. I feel very humbled to receive a comment like this from someone with your background and experience! It makes me feel encouraged to continue to try to produce high quality content. :-)
Revive My Ride What a lovely reply thank you. It was a pleasure to watch, very simple explaination. I was particularly impressed with the finish you got on the seats after cutting with such a rudimentary tool, and coating it with cutting compound was a good idea to keep the swarf out of the cylinder! You are a proper engineer! Good luck buddy.
Spot on comment best vid on this subject.Why because of the small tips that will help to complete the job. Thanks
Yes yes me too, I'm an engineer for NASA 😂
Just the way it should be done very few mechanics do it like this when I was a mechanic finishing in the 90s I carried out repairs with the same proficiency well done brother your a dying breed ,I’d trust you on my Mercedes any time ,hats off to you.👍🏻👏🏻👏🏻👏🏻👏🏻
Very informative and good calm speaking voice. No silly talk. Great video. Will watch you again.
Thanks! Glad you enjoyed the video! I’ve got a video coming up on Mercedes front coil springs and will be going for a similar style of information delivery 👍
Quite a more in depth procedure -seat refurbishing and keeping the dirt out than most. Thanks
Thanks for your comment! Glad you liked the video :-)
TH-cam doesn't get better than this fine man. Big thumbs up
Thank you for the comment, much appreciated! :-)
99% of all youtubers should learn from U how to make a video. I have to thank u for making this very good video. It is informativ and pleasent to watch - neither did I get any stressydrom. Just fantastic how easy U make it.
viking1ur, thank you for the kind comments, much appreciated! :-)
This is the best technical video with clear explanation for injector removal I’ve ever watched on TH-cam. Thanks for your time and effort. Subscribed 👍
Hi Ahmet, thank you so much for your comment! Glad you liked the video and great to have you as a subscriber! Thanks, Phil
Just following your instructions to a 'T' as one of my injectors from my Merc GL320 CDI has the 'Black Death.' Fantastic lesson at a perfect speed for a first timer down here in Adelaide, Australia. Thank you so very much - I've subscribed, thank you.
Great to have a viewer and new subscriber from Aus! I love it out that way... Glad the video is helping you 👍😎 cheers, Phil
Well done, no annoying music, great explanation. Looking forward to more videos.
Hi George, thanks for your comment, glad you liked the video! Just a favour to ask - I have actually introduced music on my later videos, although I try to keep it in the background most of the time. If you have time, would be interested to hear what you think about the music in them - annoying? or ok? Thanks!
Lets start with a huge THANKS&GRATITUDE 🤗
Hands down the best mechanic walkthrough I've seen! I'm actually so impressed that I can't even express myself.... all the positive good words in the dictionary go to you my man😇
Thank you so much for your kind words!! I'm speechless! Feedback like this makes the hard work that goes into the videos worth it! Cheers and best wishes, Phil
Every word here is what I can say as well. How I wish I had such a mechanic!
This is a great video; just the right amount of detail and I with no knowledge of cars could follow along. Alas… this issue is exactly what I have at this time.
I have a query I hope viewers may answer - I have a 2007 2.2 diesel E class, 152000 miles on the clock. I live in Scotland. I had the car in for an MOT last month and whilst having the MOT work done the mechanic also diagnosed an issue with an injector that was producing the ‘hiss hiss’ sound. I have to say I never noticed any big issues with the car's engine/overall performance prior to the visit.
He installed a single new injector and I understand washers too but on return of the car to me the car was vibrating noticeably whilst an idle. I took the car back, he performed more work and the roughness subsided for about 3 weeks only for the roughness to return yesterday. I recall him telling me the injector was difficult to remove.
From watching this video I have just had a look at the injector/cyclinder head area. I can clearly see heavy black wet deposits and clearly see and feel the ‘hiss hiss’. The injectors were very easy to locate. The replacement injector is ( i think) not clamped down with a torx screw... whereas the other 3 injectors are.
Video of my car - th-cam.com/video/ip99tlKHf_o/w-d-xo.html
I will clean the area up today and give the car to the mechanic tomorrow. The car drives ok, I did 2 50 mile trips ok before noticing a repeat of the fault and this video but other symptoms are the rev counter wavers at idle and the vibration (annoying as hell !) when idle.
There are no warning lights on dashboard BTW.
Can anyone comment on what has resulted in the ‘hiss hiss’ returning after 3 weeks and what the mechanic must do from here on to fully resolve the issue ? I also understand from comments that the new injector must also be coded ? I do not know if coding was done as I only discovered this aspect last night.
I recall the mechanic telling me that if the injector was worn it can have an effect on it's alignment with the cylinder head which could result in the repair job outweighing the value of the car… comments please ? £500 paid so far (ex MOT work) so I am keen to get this issue fixed at no further cost to me. Thanks all.
Thank you. I have to do one on the Jeep Grand cherokee wj, and this video is the best one I've ever seen. You're a very good instructor, teacher .
Thank you very much! Good luck with the work, hopefully the carbon deposits aren’t too bad on yours, clean up is the time consuming part of the job. Cheers, Phil
@ReviveMyRide did an oil change four weeks ago. It was clean, only noticed smoke coming out of the engine the other day, and was shocked a pool of black goo all over the first injector leaking to the second looks like a mess got four cans of carbon cleaner. 😳
I'm about to change my air filters, when I do I shall be inspecting my injectors. If clear of black death I'll still inspect every 5000 miles.
Thanks for a very clear concise video.
Thanks for your comment! Sounds like a good plan! Best not to mess with the injectors unless you have to, the seals may never fail and there is always the risk of accidentally causing a problem when doing this king of work.
As a qualified diesel fitter I find your video very informative with great explanation on not just how it is done but also why you need to do it that way. Lots of videos dont tell people the "why" part. Also a lot of videos show the job being performed with shifters and tools that can end up with other issues due to them not really being the best choice. Yes, not everyone has the right tools and like you have shown, researching ahead and buying thr right tools helps avoid disasters. This is why for most people workshops are too expensive due to the outlay and overhead costs being so large. You have managed to give a great tutorial for novices on how to perform the job without causing further damage. Well done mate. A lot of people will benefit from your efforts. Cheers
Leanne Krosch, really appreciate your comments! I'm always interested in trying to cover what tools are required and why. As you say, a lot of people (diy) will do this job as a one off, so I try to find cost effective specialist tools. Hopefully people can watch the video and decide if they want to tackle the job or send it to a specialist such as yourself. Thanks!
I have a T1N Sprinter that is now slightly over 100k miles. I have not inspect under the cover yet but thinking that sooner or later I will need to perform out this cured work. Thanks for putting the time and care in making this video. It is the best out there in clarity.
Great information well put together. Thank you from someone considering an ML 350 cdi with about 80k miles. 2010 manufacture year.
Hi @richbrett7268 Thanks for the kind comment! I wouldn't let the leaking fuel injection issue put you off of these cars. The OM642 is a fantastic engine apart from this small issue. If tackled early (just check it from time to time), it's actually quite an easy fix... Cheers, Phil
Thank God for Amazon in the same day delivery. I just ordered what I was missing from Amazon using your links.
Great! I do make a small commission from purchases from the link but the real reason the links are there are to help people out with the exact tools they need. Glad they helped you out 👍 Cheers, Phil
I have yet to do mine? but a nice clear video for instriction purposes, well done!.
Cheers! 👍😀
An excellent video, well presented. However, two issues, firstly there was no mention about which way around the copper washer goes. The domed surface faces the injector. The second issue is in the way the copper washer is fitted. If you rely on the friction fit to the injector tip, as you lower the assembly into the hole, if the washer falls off it can turn in the bore and end up the wrong way around. I use a long thin cable tie, slide the copper washer up the cable tie and lower into the hole until the tip of the plastic has entered the cylinder. Release the copper washer and it will end up in place facing the correct way. Remove the cable tie and you can then lower the injector into the hole and continue with the assembly.
Hi, thanks for your comment and the extra info! I did research the topic of the washer. Info was hard to find but everything I found said that it could be fitted either way up. I did all 6 of mine, so some were bound to be a mix of dome shape up and down but I haven’t seen any issues… I don’t suppose there is any information that you can link to is there? If not, no worries I’ll take your word for it, you seem to have experience! Thanks, Phil
Hi, I have the official Merc workshop manual and there is no info given. Rightly or wrongly, I decided to fit the domed end of the copper washer onto the alloy head rather than the injector. I've not had any issues. The logic being, I'd rather the rounded, or domed face of the copper washer come into contact with the aluminium seat thus minimising the risk of the copper washer causing any localised deformation of the alloy seating face. Even though I know the cooper washer is softer than the aluminium head.
Also, pressure = force divided by area. The marginally smaller the area (due to the rounded rather than square sheared edge of the copper washer), the greater the sealing pressure on the copper washer for the same bolting force.
I didn't have to recut my seats as they looked in very good condition. So, I figured if there was any minor irregularities in the alloy seat, the copper washer would have a marginally greater pressure on it to 'flow' into them and in theory a better chance of sealing. That said, it probably doesn't make any real difference! I've not had any issues since.
I'll note the orientation next time I remove a set of injectors. I have to do that soon to replace the rocker / valve cover on my W447 - which is annoying!
As others have said, a great video, thank you! I have a problem though that I'm hoping someone on here may be able to answer.
I have the same engine (installed in a Merc 320 CDI, 2008). All has gone well so far with my injector seal replacement, but I'm now stuck at the seat-cutting/reaming stage. The video clearly shows the use of a 17mm flat cutting head, and other references I've found (not that there are many) also recommend the use of the 17mm flat cutter. However, in my case, the 17mm cutter appears only to be making its mark on the very outer surface of the seat, as if the actual injector seat is a 15mm diameter face inset a few mm below a 17mm bore. (at 17:41 in the video, you can see what appears to be a raised 'ring' surrounding the main circular area of the seat). From what I've read, only light pressure is required on the cutting tool, but I've applied more pressure more times than I'm now comfortable with, and still the cutter does not appear to be making contact with the primary face of the seat.
I've tried the 15mm cutter and this does appear to make full contact with the seat face, so perhaps my seat is in fact 15mm? The only problem I have with that is that the copper washer is known to be 15mm in diameter, so surely this tolerance is too tight? Surely the 15mm washer should fit into a 17mm seat, thereby allowing the washer to expand as the hold-down clamp stretch-bolt is tightened?
Any thoughts, anyone? Should I perservere with the 17mm cutter or are some of these engines equipped with injectors that use 15mm seats rather than 17mm?
Hi, hopefully others will see your message and contribute their experience too. However your comment has jogged my memory. Somewhere in the comments someone else mentioned using a smaller cutter for the reason you describe. Also, I cut a couple of seats on my car (didn’t show them all) and I’m pretty sure on one one of them, the casting near the bottom about 10mm above the seat was a little narrow for the 17mm cutter, maybe by about 1mm? I was very patient with the cutter and persevered with it. I kept cleaning the debris off of the blade and applying more grease. Eventually the cutter took a small “skim” out of the casting in the bore which allowed it to reach down to the seat. I then cleaned up the seat with the cutter as normal. Hope that helps and the description made sense!
@@ReviveMyRide Hi, great to see your comprehensive reply, many thanks! Yes, the issue you describe is exactly what I found with this injector bore (thankfully I only had to do one). Your description of your own experience, coupled with your comment that you'd read about someone else needing to use a smaller cutter gave me some reassurance. In the end, I reasoned that the injector had come out of the existing bore and therefore it should be happy being returned to a bore of the same diameter, so I stuck with the 15mm cutter.
I also used the Honda-manufactured copper washer that you suggested (and also recommended by other DIY enthusiasts). In my case, the extra thickness of this washer (when compared with the Mercedes original) served to compensate for the material I had to remove from the injector seat (see below), so this was a good call. I'm now pleased to report complete success with ths job, so many thanks again for making and posting such an informative video.
Incidentally, the seat of my actual injector had been eroded by the blowback gasess, so in addition to cutting the bore seat I also had to reface the injector as well! (If anyone is iinterested in how I did this, please ask/comment and I'll explain). This took some effort, especially bearing in mind the need to keep the injector face level and flat. I was actually on the point of replacing the injector, but I changed my mind when I learned that new/replacement injectors need to be CODED to the car's ECU! I now understand why this is, but it's a fact of which, until now, I was ignorant. So please bear this in mind if you go down the replacement route. Obviously a garage can do the coding (at additional cost) and I understand that some of the newer, high-end code readers can also code injectors. If the coding isn't done, anything from poor runnning to the car failing to start can occur, so it's an essential step. It also applies if you swap the positions of the existing injectors as they are coded for their positions as well as their individual operating characteristics.
@@willcram8350 hi, thanks for your reply above, all really interesting stuff! Good work refinishing the sealing face on the injector! None of mine were damaged but I had heard that it can happen, most people replace the injector but as you say, apart from the cost of a new injector, that then introduces the need for coding etc. One thing I didn’t know (and thanks for sharing) was the implications of not coding. I thought it led to a slight loss of running performance (minor trimming of the fuelling due to injector calibration) not that it could cause non start and other significant problems. I actually had another viewer asking me about coding and non start on FB, so I forwarded on the info you shared! Anyway, good work and happy days that you got it all sorted! 😎🙌👍 thanks, Phil
@@willcram8350 hi! Thank you for your input on seat cutting and productive discussion with the author! Would really love to read how you re-surfaced the injector seat. Thanks.
Thanks for the DIY description_Video : fantastic, and happiness here on the 2005- E220CDI 329000 km, and thanks for links to the tools ! Cheers from Norway !
Hi @cat1stevens nice to have a viewer from Norway! Thank you for your kind comments, glad you liked the video 👍 329,000km! That's almost 200,000 miles (sorry we are slow to catch on with metric for driving distances in the UK 😂) Best wishes for many more happy miles in your Mercedes! These are good cars with good engines and transmissions... Thanks, Phil
@@ReviveMyRide have had 2 changes on the circuit-board on the AT, as i managed to brake a pin, when i changed the adapter, for the controlcable during oilchange , and back in 2016, i had to repair the ECU: Thanks to Steven Lewis :th-cam.com/video/kynXjan7O0Q/w-d-xo.html (computer-error-that was solved using BDM-100)
@@cat1stevens That is one of the risks when doing planned maintenance, it is possible to intrude problems. Glad you got it sorted, will check out your links for future reference 👍 cheers, Phil
just come across your channel - looking at getting a C Class Coupe for my wife - had heard horrible things about the 'Black death' and the costs to solve - you have just put my mind at rest and I know now what to look for and how to solve if necessary. Great work - keep it up
Thanks for your comment and glad that the video was helpful! I think they are great cars and as long as you are aware of this issue, then you can keep an eye on it and if necessary, catch it and fix it early before it becomes a big issue. cheers!
You deserve tumb up, excellent video, excellent job, thanks you publish it
Thanks very much for the kind comment, really appreciate it! 👍😎
I've used your video in the past to change injectors on a ML270
I'm about to do it again on my E350
Thankyou very much 👍👍👍
@norfolkbushmanandfriends791 That's great to hear! Appreciate the comment! 👍😎 BTW, I have an E350 cabriolet that I fixed up from salvage, If you didn't see it the videos are on my channel. Great car!
@@ReviveMyRide I had mine re mapped, the difference in torque & power are amazing 👍👍
@@norfolkbushmanandfriends7916 I'm super interested in this! But, it's my wife's car now that it's done and she says it is fast enough 😭
I found that a spray can of starting fluid with one of those little red extension tubes was very helpful to clean the debris out of the bolt hole that holds the injector down. Then another can of compressed air blows the starting fluid out. It made the bolt hole extremely clean and prevented the bolt from bottoming out to soon and affecting the torque pressure.
Hi Dennis, this is a really good tip! Thanks for sharing! :-) Cheers, Phil
Hi and thank you for a great channel and yes my injectors are playing up at 97000 miles on my E250 cdi bluefficiency, ime going to investigate with your help 👍👍👍
Thank you! Yes, sounds like a good idea, the earlier you tackle it the better. If early enough, less carbon clean up and often no need to recut seats 👍 cheers, Phil
Terrific video, watching you do this with your tips throughout has given me new confidence to tackle this myself, Mercedes would probably want a $1000 AUD, I can probably get it done for half that with some new tools and self-esteem, thanks for sharing, from Aussie down under.
Thanks for your comment, it's music to my ears and the reason why I try to go into such detail in the video! Also, great to have a message from down under! Take your time with it and if you have any Q's pop them on here and I'll try to help if I can! Thanks, Phil
Btw the reamer kit you recommended did not include a 15mm x 17mm flat reamer that my ml320 cdi needed.. I am still thankful for the video!
I'm really sorry about that! Thanks for letting me know, I will go check the link! The problem is that Amazon keeps delisting the tools and then I have to go find another one. Originally, I was linked to the exact tool I used, so I knew it worked! Glad you liked the video and thanks for your comment!
MASSIVE thanks! Thanks for taking the time and effort to produce this video. Now I can keep on driving my beloved 'BRUTUS' because you've teached me how to fix my leaky fuel injector.
Hi Michael, thanks very much for your kind comments, really pleased the video helped you! Cheers, Phil
Very clear and easy to follow video. Well done.
Thank you for the kind comment, much appreciated! Cheers, Phil
Way above my own skill set but good to know what my local garage are doing to my W639 V6 3L CDi right now!! Great video
Thanks very much for the positive feedback :-)
Thank you 😊 I’m not diesel specialist so I know what tool is needed to buy for it ))
Happy to help!
Nice one bud this is by far the best video I’ve seen explaining the Black Death and how to sort it,thank you
Thanks very much for your message and I’m glad you found the video useful! Thanks, Phil
great video. I'll try the job on my Jeep Gd Cherokee next weekend. It will help me a lot.
Hope it goes well for you! 👍
Thank you very much for this video, I have issues with exhaust smell inside my E320 Bluetec, checked injectors and sure one of them is leaking fumes inside engine bay. There is not much carbon build up around injectors, hope I'll be able to replace those washers. I'm going to check more of your videos because they are very informative, thank you again!
Thanks for the comment! If it is leaking injector seals, then you are right to tackle them early, the job gets much more difficult once the carbon build up starts. Glad you are enjoying the vids :-)
Great video, helpful and covered all the points, I have been told that if possible to spray some wd40 or brake cleaner around the injectors to help removal and if sludge is really bad oven cleaner to loosen that sludge
Thank you! Yes, I’ve heard that all of those products do work 👍 One thing I would have been keen to try is starting the job with a warm engine. The heat stays around for quite a while and apparently makes a big difference to getting the injectors out. Just be careful not to touch anything hot! Cheers, Phil
Thank you for the video, had mine done today and for my surprise, the middle right injector didn’t even have a washer. Only thing I didn’t have was the hammer puller so I used WD40 and a rocking movement to get them out. Did all 6. 👍🏼👍🏼👍🏼
Augusto Barale thanks for your comment, glad the video helped give you some information. Weird that a washer was missing! Yes, you are correct if you are patient and the injectors aren't stuck too badly, you can remove them exactly as you described :-)
This video saved me a trip to the mechanic. Definitely worth buying the parts and injector puller kit.
Really glad the video helped you! Thanks for the comment! 🙂
Done that job Today. Just one injector for now, C350 so 5 more to go [ i sorta know they have a few leaks [cooler seals] . Years since i did owt like that. Did it with my 25yr old lad. Hes an engineer you know, he is ya know. knows everythin he does [Will see] . I cracked on i hadn't a clue, which i hadnt. Black death like ive never seen it , ya could chisel it out. My lad give up a few times. Went in for a warm . Apart from me breaking a clip or two. Had i watch your excellent video first. I wouldn't have broke them. We shall finish Tomorrow,see if he cottons on . Pffff, engineer my a..e....Lol. Great video, thanks so much for making and sharing fella. Go ta top at class lad.
Hi Brian, I think this is my favorite comment ever! Glad you liked the video and that it helped some. Good to see that you are getting stuck in! AND fantastic that you are working with your son on it. I work with my Dad sometimes, he's a good mechanic and I'm an engineer, so we have a similar dynamic going on! 😂
Very good contribution. Only with the "Nissan" sealing ring part number a small error. The correct number is Honda 16472RBDE00. Best regards from Germany
Hi, Thanks very much for raising this point, you are absolutely right regarding the part number! I will need to amend in in the video description above!
Are all the injectors the same for all cdi models of the w211 model, mined a e220 cdi?
Just watched your video. Very, very well presented👍🏻. If I could be so bold as to maybe add a tiny tip to your great thread cleaning bolt, I would recommend applying a thin coat of grease to the slot. This helps to hold any debris collected. Another point that may or may not be important is in using a thicker sealing washer. Will using a thicker washer "lift" the injector by an amount that may cause issues in the fuel delivery? I doubt it myself but just thought I'd put that question out there. Many thanks again for your time and trouble making this informative video.
Thank you, some very good comments there! Yep, great idea about the grease on the “thread cleaning tool”. I’m pretty sure that is exactly what I did but may not have mentioned it in the video, so thanks for highlighting it! Slightly thicker injector seal - many people in the Merc community have been using this exact washer for quite a while now, so I would go so far as to say it is “proven”. It’s particularly useful if you have had to skim the seat with a cutting tool. Thanks for your contribution! 👍
Thanks for the video mate. Resealing the injectors on my van, grateful for some online help.
Glad you found the video helpful! Thanks for your comment and good luck with the work!
Hi i have just discovered this problem with 1 of my injectors on my cls320cdi and will be having a go at doing this repair now thanks for your video 🙂👍
Good luck with it and let me know if you have any questions along the way and I’ll help if I can! 👍
Hi again I done it all repaired now she runs great thanks been a while since I wanted to do them because had other issues like swirl flap motor fail and turbo actuator fail but all working and fixed thanks 👍
@@dandicey764 Great work! Even with instructions, it's still quite a technical job 👍 Glad to hear it is all sorted and you're back on the road. Thanks for the update. 🙂 Cheers, Phil
Thank you for great video and links to the tools !
I just got a call yesterday from a customer with the 3.0 diesel in a Jeep Cherokee that's leaking " blow by " around the injectors so I suspect this is the problem .
Glad the video helped you! Yep, as you say, sounds like it might be leaking injector seals. Be interesting to hear how you get on if you have time to drop a message later... Cheers, Phil
@@ReviveMyRide The engine had 4 cylinders leaking pretty bad and two thinking about it . Got the injectors pulled and ports cleaned up with some make shift tools we threw together . Replaced all 6 copper washers and the Jeep is running great on the test drive . th-cam.com/video/lY46G7Cnivo/w-d-xo.html
Thanks again !
@@cranerigging3604 Thanks for sharing a video of the work that you are doing! Great to see the homemade tools that you put together and it looks like they worked really well! Keep up the good work!
@@ReviveMyRide Thank You ! It went better than expected .
I have a Jeep Crd 3.0 V6 with the Merc motor (OM642) and this is a problem I have only the right side head, my vehicle struggles to start and is underboosting and heavy on fuel. I hope this is the solution. I bought the vehicle at a bargain price and if this is the fix, I'd be sooo happy.
The video was really really helpful! Great job!
Thanks and glad you liked the video! Good luck with sorting your car out!
Very thorough and no shortcuts taken. Well done and thankyou!
Thanks for your comment Brian! Glad you liked the video 👍
Great job, I have looked at so many just to see one part as how to remove and you showed a lot that i needed to know, Cheers
Thanks for your comment, really pleased that the video has helped you! :-)
Thanks for your time buddy, got mine to do ASAP and this will help me lots...
Thanks for your message, good luck with sorting out the problem with yours. If you have any questions as you work through it, let me know and I will help if I can!
Thanks a lot for the step by step AND especially listing the parts needed!
Just ordered the Nissan washers from UK since I figured the whole reason the seals failed initially because of the original Mercedes washers. No point of buying the same MB ones and redo this repair in the future...
Thanks for your comment! Yep, 3 years since the repair and still going strong on mine! Just to confirm, they are "Honda washers part number is 1647RBDE00), I'm sure you already know that, just mentioning it for others! I said Nissan in the video but in the description the make & part number is correct. Honda washers are a little softer, so will accommodate any imperfections in the sealing surfaces better, they are also just a little thicker, which is good if you have had to recut a seat. Hope the repair goes well for you! 👍
@@ReviveMyRide my bad ,wanted to say Honda washers (not Nissan).
Of course, it's a strange sensation when you pay 50$ for 6 washers and ship them across the world 😂 but again I think it's the core component in this repair.
@@ilusha55 No probs, I made the same mistake! Yep, I would always recommend the Honda injector seals!
Little update after completing this repair. Ironically the hardest part for me was disconnecting/reconnecting the fuel return (leak) line and actually keeping the plastic retainers in one piece. Unfortunately I broke couple retainers because of the carbon deposits around the plastic and because of how fragile they are once they ve been compromised by the "black death". Ordered a new leak line.
@@ilusha55 Thanks for the update, sounds like you are making good progress! Actually, those return line clips are quite tricky and yes, if the carbon has gotten around them then it can make them brittle too. So, new part on the way and then you should be good to go. Be warned, priming the fuel system can be time consuming too! If you have issues with it, check out the comments, there should be one pinned to the top with some instructions. 👍
Hello, this is nothing to do with i njectors, but your channel is so easy to understand and precise, i was wondering if you could give me some advice regarding my e220 2007 mercedes, the parking brake seems to have come out, as in it seems not be connected to anything, prior to this, it always seemed a bit reluctant to release, i know its a long shot but you seem very clued up, thank you
Hi Charles, as it happens the release mechanism sticks on my Merc too but thankfully it still works (for now). If the mechanism fails, then it is usually due to one of the cables. Depending on your problem: If it is the release lever that feels like it is doing nothin then it could be cable item 190 in the attached diagram but in this case, the parking brake would stay on and you would struggle to get the car to move.
nemigaparts.com/cat_spares/epc/mercedes/1/fg/211006/64u/42/145/
OR if it is the pedal that is failing to set the parking brake (the pedal just goes down with little or no resistance), it is most likely to be cable item 80. However, please note that if the left rear (Item 230) or right rear (item 240) cables fail you might feel some resistance but not as much as normal because just one side of the parking brake is operating. I hope this makes sense and is of use to you! If you decide to purchase a new cable, please double check part numbers before ordering and it is worth checking with the Mercedes dealers because they are generally very helpful and surprisingly competitive on prices for some parts. It would be great to hear how you get on if you have time to message back! Cheers, Phil
@@ReviveMyRide Good afternoon Phil, first of all let me wish you a happy and healthy new year, thank you for your response, l am not much good with mechanics, but after seeing your videos it might be worth having a look at the park brake system if it isnt too complicated,, i will let you know the outcome thanks again
@@charlesalderson9738 Sounds good! I haven't looked at this system myself, so I'm not sure how easy it is to access and work n. Good luck with it!
Very well done mate and hello from Eastern Canada. One injector just started to leak on my 2008 Jeep Grand Cherokee WK. I hear a poofing noise and smell the gases inside the passenger area. I bought the 6-bolt and 6-seal kit from IDParts $24.95 US and the ceramic grease. I'm going to use one of the old bolts for the thread cleaning tool. They will all get replaced. The Rocal cutting compound is an excellent product we use it at my shop for thread cutting, a little bit goes a long way. A bit toxic so use with care. Thanks again.
Great to hear from a viewer from Canada! Sounds like you know what you are doing but glad you found the video useful! Good idea to chance all of the seals once one has failed and they are super easy to change if there is no carbon build up. Hope it all goes smoothly for you! Thanks, Phil
I saved a couple hundred bucks not going to a mechanic. I now own some new tools. And I gained a skill. Productive weekend.
Sounds like you did some good work there! Thanks for the feedback! :-)
Great Help . I have a Mercedes van , but the principle is the same !
Don Walker thanks for your comment and glad you found the video useful! :-)
Thank for this gem! I'm considering replacing my OM 606 . This helps a lot in considering replacing it.
Thanks for your kind comment! Glad the video helped you 🙂
Thank you for this video - obviously a great mechanic!
Thank you! tbh I'm always learning too! Appreciate your comment!
Nice video. Helped me a lot with my 2006 ml320.
thanks for your message! Great the the video has helped you! 👍😀
A very hard , Black Tar-Like substance has appeared around the nearest injector, since 3 months ago , on my 2010 313cdi Mercedes Sprinter van 😳 .... it was " chuffing " initially, but that's stopped for some reason -
How urgent would you see it needs attention ?
Love your videos , very clear and informative 👍
Thank You.
Hi Don, chances are that you will be ok for a while (say a few months) if you keep an eye on it but that black tar is the problem. It is what makes the repair time consuming and costly. Also, the "seat" at the bottom of the injector bore becomes damaged with time and that is why you have to re-cut them. If you catch it early, often the seat is ok and only the copper washer needs to be changed. The sooner you catch it, the easier the work is. Probably it started "chuffing" but now the tar is muffling the sound and it has become a slow creep. Although I didn't show it in the video, I changed all of the copper washers (all six injectors) on my car. On the ones, where there was little or no tar, it was a doddle and I changed the washers very quickly. You have done well to spot it early, so that it will be a faster and easier repair. Hope this helps!
Don, thanks for your feedback, glad you liked the video. I am in the middle of a house move right now but have some footage for videos that I hope to upload in the New Year! Thanks!
Very good my friend thanks fron Brazil
Thanks! :-)
very good ,very clear instructions ,thank you.
Thanks for your comment & glad you liked the video! :-)
Wow, really superb, logical presentation.
James O'Gara Thanks! :-) and yes, it is the OM642 engine. Cheers, RMR
Great video
I have a 2008 GL 320 with 135000 miles
No issues yet thank goodness
When you cut the seat, I assume that there was nothing preventing dirt from going into the engine ...
Hi, thanks for your comment! You are doing the right thing to keep an eye on it and to only intervene if you see a problem developing. It may never happen on your vehicle! You are correct that during the seat recutting process, there is a risk of cuttings falling into the cylinder. I minimised this by using a cutting compound both to improve the cutting quality but also to capture the swarfe. I didn't let the cutter blades get too full either and withdrew the tool regularly, cleaned away the cuttings and reapplied with new cutting compound several times. Cheers, Phil
Thank you for your reply
I will definitely keep an eye on things ..😊
To answer your point about why this is common: this happens to all Direct injection diesels regardless of manufacturer, made since approx 2006. To comply with euro emissions legislation, car manufacturers introduced stricter EGR and DPF measures but, crucially didn't fit oil catch cans. This meant that there was lots of blowback carbon and oil floating around the intake and fuel systems. A decent oil catch can will prevent this from happening again - I've fitted on on my BMW (sorry lol) 2008 5 series and have exactly the "Black Death" that you refer to - loud ticking and, on inspection really hard carbon deposits around the top of 3/4 injectors. I have a video on the catch can - have done another better one which is going up next week. Hth
Hi Jonathan, thank you for sharing your experience but I just have a question based on what you wrote. My understanding is that the Mercedes diesel is susceptible to the injector seal (copper at the bottom of the injector) deteriorating and that this is due to a suboptimal clamping system used on these engines. Are you saying that oily emissions recirculating through the intake (EGR system) contributes to premature failure of the seal? Or are you talking about a different phenomenon? Thanks!
Thank you so much! Question though, I assume the injector face where it sits on the seal needs to be perfect? Mine has a slight groove for about 30 degrees around. And although it's better now, it's still chuffing.
Also what size cutting tool do you use for these?
Lastly, what is it that keeps the injector held down TIGHT, just that little wishbone?
Thank you sir.
Hi, The seat damage will almost certainly be causing you problems. I used a flat 17mm cutter but it did shave a tiny amount of material from the bore walls down near the bottom (probably because it is a cast part). Yes, just the little "wishbone" bracket holding down the injector but please take special note of the part in the video where I am clearing out the threaded hole for the bolt that holds it down. If there is debris in there, the bolt won't go down fully. Check the description for the part number for the Honda seal, these work better than the Merc ones. Also, if you are going to remove it again, ideally you need a new bolt. Hope that helps! Thanks, Phil
Thank yo for honest work!
Thanks for your comment! 🙂 Glad you liked the video 👍
very clear concise excellent make more videos pls
Hi Tony, thanks for your feedback, glad you liked the video! Yes, you are right, I haven't loaded up a new one for a while. I have some really good footage from an auto transmission oil and filter change that I will try to edit and get loaded up soon!
Hi, great videos as always, followed the instructions in your gearbox video made the job easier than I expected, just a quick question the feed from the fuel rail to the injector will that be pressurised ? Will it normal therefore to have some residual fuel come out of the connector? Will make sure the battery is disconnected
Hi, yes, if the engine has been running recently, it will be pressurised and it is very high pressure at the injector too. This does dissipate quickly once the joint is cracked though. I left the car overnight before starting the job and there was no pressure there. I know a lot of people advocate doing this job with a warm engine as it makes the injectors easier to remove, so it must be possible to undo the fuel connection if the car has been running recently, just be careful and maybe wear gloves as a precaution. Cheers, Phil
@@ReviveMyRide thank you for your reply, I’m going to tackle this job this weekend, cylinder 2 is flagging up on my diagnostic reader, the cars presenting with a rough idle, going to switch the injector with one of the others to diagnose whether it’s the injector or maybe the wiring or ecu. Wish me luck. Thank you again, your a legend all your videos are very informative
@@yasarilyas6081 No probs at all! Sounds like you are pretty handy with the tools. Enjoy the work and hope you resolve the issue 👍 Cheers, Phil
Excellent video. I’m going to do this on my car.
Great, I make these videos so that hopefully people will want to and have the info they need to do more of their own DIY! Hope you get on ok with it, let me know if I can be of any help!
Well done! Too bad I did not view this long ago....
Thanks for taking the time to comment, great that you found the video interesting :-)
Nice video, thank you. My om642 only has 70k km and still looks prestine, but I like to have all the parts in stock for future endeavors... just one silly question, why not use one of the old bolts as your cleaning bolt? I just state that because most complete kits only come with the 6 bolts. Cheers 🍺
I wish i had this 2 years ago when my 2007 jeep GC had injector 1 get all crapped up. I used a 13mm crows foot to get the injector to loosen up by rotating. I did not use the seafoam and wish i knew of that before. But i do have a 2005 MB CDI with a bad black death in injector 6 that i will use that technique to fix. I also read on a forum to ensure the hold down bolt doent bottom out was to cut about 1-2mm off the bottom and recut the threads so they go down smooth. I used laquer thinner to clean everything out in the whole for two reasons. First it liquefied the black crud and i was able to blow it out of the holes, and two, it evaporated very fast and thus if any leaked into the cylinder, it would quickly evaporate. Again thanks it was what i essentially did as well.
kamaksi24 thanks for sharing your experience! The lacquer thinner was a good idea and probably worked better for cleaning out the bolt hole. I used some Seafoam down the retaining bolt hole but then needed to prod some clean cloth down the hole a lot of times to be sure it is clear. Interesting idea to cut the bolt back a little because the big risk is the bolt bottoming out and either not holding the injector tight enough or shearing through over torquing. Again, thanks for sharing, helps us all learn!
@@ReviveMyRide Oh i agree 100%! i already looked for the seafoam for the next round of black death and maybe even try it on the next round of glow plugs.
This is a terrific video - I think you must know my car! Thank you.
Thanks for taking the time to post the kind comment! :-) cheers, Phil
Thanks for give so good information much appreciated Bishop Natal
Thanks for your comment! Glad you have found the video useful. 😃 Cheers, Phil
I am your newest subscriber, what did you use to clean the injectors
Andrew Smith Welcome to the channel and thanks for subscribing! I cleaned the outside of the injectors using the "Seafoam" (there is a link in the description for the Seafoam if you aren't familiar with it and want to read the product info) and a green scotch bright pad. Hope that helps! Cheers, RMR
@@ReviveMyRide Thanks for the quick response. In your video you say Nissan injector seal. Your link also says Nissan injector seal in the video description but the part number is for a Honda. I just want to make sure that I am getting what is recommended. Can you please clarify?
Thanks
@@andrewsmith9980 Hi, thanks for pointing this out! I can confirm that it is a Honda injector seal. Sorry for any confusion, I can't change the video but I have updated the description and added the info to a comment pinned to the top of the comments section. Cheers, RMR
I know there is very little difference but my understanding is 7 mm Then 90 + 90, not 8 mm 90+90. I also have read that the Honda copper seals are good to use too.
Amazing video
🙏👍 Thanks very much!
it would be useful if you could show us what piece you used for the seat cutter tool as in what mm
Brilliant video!! really clear! thank you
tony salami thanks for your comment and glad you enjoyed the video! :-)
Really clear informative helpful video many thanks
Thanks for the comment, glad you found the video useful!
I used honda copper seal...same as the nissan,thicker and softer they work better than the mercedes.
I used a wood dowel and glued sand paper to clean injector seat...
crazy job but saved a ton of money...
Sounds good, I managed to clean up 5 of the injector seats in a very similar way, just had to re-cut one of them due to pitting.
Very good explained, thanks for great information
Thanks!
One word magnificent just
🙏 Thanks so much! Really appreciate it, especially as you used to work as a mechanic yourself! cheers! 😎
Did you have to re learn the ecu for the new injectors? Mercedes says that we have to and if we do would it be okay to drive it to them if they aren’t learned into the system?
Hi, I reused the existing injectors, so I didn't run into this problem. I've never replaced a Mercedes injector, so haven't run into this problem before. I suspect that you may know more about this than I do but here is a link where a few MB forum members are talking about the coding. forums.mbclub.co.uk/threads/do-cdi-injectors-need-programming.32558/ Apparently, coding is to optimise the injector to run with the ECU, it doesn't mean that it won't run at all. On separate posts I have read about plenty of owners who have fitted injectors without coding them it, just monitored engine performance and fuel economy but its a personal choice.... Thanks, Phil
The slide hammer kit link is incorrect, I've ordered it and it doesn't contain the correct fitting so I've had to order the correct one
Hi Gaz, Really sorry about that! The kit I used went out of stock, so I had to link to a new one! Thanks for letting me know, I have corrected the link. Cheers, Phil
thanks for the video. Do I need to change all injectors or do i look for the leaking ones?
Hi, you can just replace the bad one, it should be quite obvious but tbh, I did all of mine in the theory that if one had gone, the others wouldn’t be far behind. Also, the longest part of the job is getting the injector out (if there is carbon around it) and cleaning up around where you’ve had a leaking injector. On injectors where the seal hasn’t started leaking yet, you will change them very quickly. Hope that helps! Cheers, Phil
Great documentation. I suppose the 220cdi engine will have to be done in a similar fashion. I’m having exhaust fumes in the cabin at standstill and have noticed the pfft sound at idle.
Hi Ole, yes, from your description, it definitely sounds like a leaking injector seal. I just checked the diagrams and some of the part numbers are slightly different between the two engines but the clamp and seal arrangement looks very similar. Please be aware that the clamp and securing screw for your engine is a different part number but the seal itself is the same. I recently carried out a 2yr inspection following the repair I did on my car, with good results :-) It's not that difficult to do if you take your time and take a methodical approach. Inspection video if you want to check it out (but it is on the v6 engine again) th-cam.com/video/7weS1vQ_1OI/w-d-xo.html Thanks, Phil
@@ReviveMyRide I did the old “mechanic’s stethoscope” aka a tube in the ear test yesterday and clearly the #1 cylinder from the right front wheel is making the noise, the other three are quiet. I’ll order parts and a sliding hammer, just in case today. There’s no black stuff to be seen yet, we may have caught it very early. Thanks for your videos and reply. I’ll post my findings and results.
I’ll send you videos and pictures if you find them useful for your channel.
PS: i did. watch your follow-up video. Great results on that one ☝️
@@olewurtz7625 Hi, yes, great idea, I haven't used the mechanics stethoscope method for a while but it can be very effective! Yes, if you don't mind and have the time, it would be great to see your results. Hope the work goes well, sounds like you know what you are doing! 👍
@@ReviveMyRide I finally manned up and went for the offending injector (seal).
I should have bought a seal cutting tool in advance. Buy from Amazon and you can return, if unused. But I didn’t, so no I have to see if a local tool supply shop has one tomorrow, because my wife needs the car running by Tuesday and Amazon’s earliest delivery is Wednesday.
I’ve taken some pictures, where can I send them to you ?
PS: I’m pretty sure I need to refinish the seat. I have matching traces of blow through on the seat and the washer. Don’t you think so ?
@Ole Wurtz Yeah, it can be difficult if you need the car running and this type of work can be time consuming! If you have inspected the seat (and cleaned it with a bit of emery cloth) and you can see tracks or damage in the seat, then you are right, you will need to recut it. But when you do, take your time and cut out the minimum of material required to get the seat clean again. I'm happy to look at pictures, but sometimes it is difficult to tell from a photo. Thanks, Phil
Awesome video...Very useful !
Thanks for taking the time to comment ang glad you liked the video! :-)
The slide hammer you have listed in the discription is not the one you have used in the video.
Hi, Sorry, I made this video aeons ago, so sometimes the tool gets delisted and I have to choose another equivalent. Pretty much any cost effective slide hammer that has the right attachment onto the fuel injector should do the job! Cheers, Phil
Great job
Would add more video for sprinter 2015 2.1l any repair comes Thur you.
Thank you
Hi, glad you are enjoying the videos, thanks for your feedback! I just work on cars as a hobby, so I'm unlikely to ever have a van to work on. But if I do, I will defo do a video, I know there are a lot of them out there and so it would make a good video for my viewers!
Thanks for the video!
Thanks for your comment!
What a great video thumbs up and I'll subscribe even though I'll never use you again but that video was excellent
Thanks for the feedback, really kind of you to subscribe. As I'm sure you know, Subscribers are everything to a TH-cam channel! Hopefully I will produce another video that you find useful!
Great video, thank you.
Thanks very much! Glad the video has helped you! 🙂
Excellent video thanks very much!
Thanks for your comment, much appreciated! Glad you liked the video :-)
My 2012 ML350 W166 got done at 87k and problem was already really bad, so 60k would be a good place to do the change of copper seals, which is what my mechanic also recommended.
Makes sense. I think if had done mine earlier, I could have avoided the carbon cleanup, which can be time consuming. With these engines, this problem is more a “when” rather than an “if”, so scheduling it in like a maintenance take makes sense!
I retorq 7Nm and two 45 degrees, but you doing 8Nm and two 90, where is right answer?
This is a tricky one! I also have found a few different methods and torque levels for these bolts. All I can suggest is find the info source that you trust and go with it. What I will say is that the bolts break very easily, personally I will be trying less torque next time, maybe the 7Nm + 2x 45deg as you suggest. Cheers, Phil
Great Video and Very motivational.
My car was parked just because of this since last year ( i really loved this diesel)
After i watched your video i decided to fix everything and i did as i learned from you that take time and be patience with everything ordered all the parts and Tools needed or you recommended.
I just finished everything and i made sure everything is up to its standard as you explained.
Now car is not starting i try to start is couple of times to take the air out of fuel system.
Car doesn't start now , before it was running and battery is good as well.
Any recommendations??
What i look into next ?
Hi, it sounds like you did everything right. Sometimes the diesel can take a like of priming, and especially if you have changed all of the seals and therefore, all of the injectors have been disconnected. The best thing you can do is to charge up your battery again and try again by turning the key to run the fuel pump for a few seconds and then then turn it back off again. Do this at least half a dozen times and then try again cranking to start. Here is a link that will give you extra info about this problem, it is very common: forums.mercedesclub.org.uk/index.php?threads/bleeding-fuel-after-pipe-pump-repair-w210-e320-cdi.128019/ Just one extra thing to add. If you follow the advice in the link to loosen a connection near the injector a little and to crank the car (to bleed the fuel through), don't go anywhere near the engine with your hands etc while you are cranking / running the engine , the fuel is under very high pressure and a very fine spray of fuel can easily cut your skin. Hope this helps, please let me know how you get on! Thanks, Phil
@@ReviveMyRide Thank You so much for your prompt response, i can't thank you much after reading the thread you shared i find out the possible cause it was the air in the system in my case my car was in the my garage due to a little incline it was nose up so i jacked it up from behind, fuel tank was around a quarter tank i put more fuel to half the tank and battery was all drained due to cranking again and again and so put the battery on a charger and left the car for a day.
Next day came back did the self air out sequence few times with and then very first times when i cranked it started.
Woow great
I can't thank you much with your help i was able to revive my ride and now i have confidence in it.
In this process i also put new fuel filter, new air intake seals and also new air filters .
@@tayyabir5873 Great work Reviving Your Ride! Glad you got it sorted out and will now be back on the road! Thanks for your comment above, it's really great to hear back from you and to know you got it fixed. 😁
Thanks a lot for the vid! Helped me out big time, will have to do this to my car. I have just one injector leaking slightly, and not nearly as bad as in this example, but will probably change all the seals while i am at it as preventive maintenance. Any tips on cleaning the injectors themeselves? Thanks again
Hi, glad the video has helped you and thanks for your comment! :-) There are videos on TH-cam, where people have shown how to build a DIY fuel injector cleaning rig and run cleaning solutions through their injectors. This can help the injectors go back to supplying fuel in a mist, rather than as a stream and give better combustion. Be careful though, running the cleanser through your injectors can cause a flammable atmosphere, so you need to be aware and takes steps to prevent a fire. I haven't tried this myself but it is one of the things I am interested in doing on my Merc!
@@ReviveMyRide Thanks for the reply :) Have a nice day
nice write up and video, great work!
Thanks for the feedback, much appreciated! Glad you liked the vid :-)
@@ReviveMyRide hi mate, hopefully you can help me again, 👍...tell me, have you any videos on slow to start e220cdi w211 in hard frosty conditions, it turns 3-4 times before it finally lights up, is it air in the fuel lines? Do I Change the seals, can they be changed? What do you think, you been a great help in the past🤞, thanks in advance
@@thebull4358 Hi, I don't have a video on this yet but will try to give some advice! You will know how your car behaves better than me but in my experience, diesels are always slower starting in cold weather. A few ideas though: 1) They have the glow plugs to help with cold weather starting. I'm sure you already do this but when starting the car from cold, always make sure you turn the ignition on but then wait for the yellow glow plug symbol on the dash to go off before starting it. In addition, in my car, I have found that once the glow plug light goes off, if I wait an extra 3-4 seconds, it starts more easily. 2) Is the engine turning over on the starter motor noticeably slower? If so, the battery may be getting past its best (batteries don't like cold weather and once they get old, it is in the winter when they fail) but make sure you check the battery terminals & clamps to make sure they are clean and have a good connection first before replacing the battery. To do this, I disconnect the terminals, clean the terminal with sand paper, clean the inside of the clamps with sand paper and then reconnect (put some grease on the terminals / clamps afterwards to keep them clean for longer). 3) I don't think this applies to you but I will mention it just in case. If the car turns over many times (7 or 8 times) and then times out (fails to start), and you have to try again, then it is possible that it is the glow plug control module. Read the car for codes using an inexpensive OBD2 reader and see if there are any showing. 4) Finally, if you remove the engine cover and there isn't lots of carbon building up around the injectors, then you can rule out the "black death" leaking fuel injectors. It's a biggish job, so I would investigate the other points 1-3 above first. Hope this helps, let me know how you get on and if you have any other questions! Cheers, RMR
Thanks for making this video
Thanks for your comment & glad you liked the vid!
@@ReviveMyRide I was looking to get myself an ML320 CDI, yesterday, checked the MOT history and on the Monitor and repair if necessary section has Injector leaking gasses and Noise from steering column area - no play detected; can you advise?
@@brownoforrington8310 If it is a car you want, you can ask the owner about both of these things. Ask if they have had them fixed and if so, if they have the receipt. If not, you could use the info as bargaining material. With the leaking injector, you can pop off the engine cover and have a look for carbon build up. Also, you would usually be able to smell it in the cabin. Sorry, with steering, I haven't heard of that issue, you would need to assess it on a test drive and again, depends on if the price of the car is worth the risk of a repair being required. new rack? just a new knuckle joint and shaft (where it meets the rack)? I watched a video recently for an Audi and it was just the knuckle joint and it just needed some grease. Hope this helps somewhat, there are never any guarantees with car faults & repairs!
@@ReviveMyRide Thanks a lot for taking your time to reply
Some people say you should grease the injector before installation ..good idea?
Hi Geoff, Sorry for the slow reply! Yes, I think you should use a thin coat of grease on the outside of the injector body (not essential though!). At 17:50 in the video, I apply some copper grease BUT you have to be careful to keep the grease away from the seal. Ceramic grease is actually the best grease to use. Thanks, Phil
thank you for the video….my c320 is suffering from “black death” on one cilinder. In the video around 19:40 you tighten the bolt with 8 NM and the you tighten it again with two times 90 degrees…why? I mean wat is the use of starting off with 8 NM and followed by 2 times 90 degrees?
Thanks for explaining