The problem with this engine and mercedes sprinter is the stretch bolt as you mentioned. The failure for sure is the m6 stretch bolt. I helicoil them and install a larger bolt. Ran a sprinter for 8 years+ without this issue. It's not the copper washer failing its the bolt that stretches and starts to leak at the seal.
i always install new strech bolts. If i remember correctly instruction says: tighten with amount X NM and then 2x90°. --> i just do 1x90° and it works fine
@harrismalouda8193 I always use tighten them with manufacturers recommendations and had injectors leak after 6 months of heavy delivery driving miles. After using bigger bolts didn't ever have a problem with them throughout the 6 years of that van.
@mbz4652 if I remember it was a 9mm Allen key. And I used the helicoil tool to thread it into the hole then removed the tool. Remember you have to make when that bolt bolt bottoms out do not turn it anymore otherwise it will rip the helicoil out. I found the best method is to measure using washers. For example before the bolt bottoms out add 2 washers between your injector clamp and bolt. I got black bolts from James listers.
Thank you my good lad for such a perfect explanation. Here in poland we have these "mechanics" that would charge you your house and fuck up job like this, now thanks to you im doing it myself and i get to keep my house! Kisses.
I did a similar job on same engine. While cleaning up seat area I took glow plug out and blew compressed air in and out of the injector hole to keep combustion chamber clean. My injector wasn't damaged like yours but took a huge amount of persuading to get out. PS Thank you for ALL your uploads - very informative.
There are a few tricks to making these better than mercs half-assed factory solution. Dont use the factory merc washers, or the shitty aftermarket ones, they are generally crap. They are basically flat in cross-section, and too hard, which is a poor design, from a crush/sealing perspective. Think of an oring. Some people use a honda diesel injector washer, these are definitely better, have more of an elliptical cross section and are softer and slightly thicker if you have to recut the seat. I actually lathed myself up a small press tool, annealed a set of new factory washers, then formed them into a shape which has point contact on the upper and lower faces of the washer. I then re annealed them after forming to make them soft so the newly formed peaks would crush on installation. I then installed, and went by the updated merc spec of 7nm plus 2x90deg. No leaks in 50000km, still clean as a whistle. One of my bolts also had a dodgy repair like your number 6, tapped into rocker cover. I reinstalled that as the old stretch bolt still stuck in head. No issues at all on my 350km om612. Your method needs a little fine tuning dpuk, and i would suggest you look at making better washers, that is the opportunity. Im a mechanical engineer btw, so seal design is something i care about.
Thanks. I bought a 2005 MB E320 CDI Sedan with 192,000miles 2 years ago it now has 238,000 miles changed Thermostat and glow plugs, but lots of noises from front end suspension.
A common issue with many later MB diesels. I’ve had some right ordeals getting stuck injectors out. On a number of engines, not just MB. The M7 bolt upgrade is definitely the way forward as a permanent solution. Very informative vid.
I actually go to m10 and be done with it, and that only requires 2cm ish ish of new threads, you dont even need to drill anything out, use the stock larger bolthole in the head and thread up that
Hi I have a few questions, What length of bolts do you use in M10? And how deep do you have to go to be in the cylinder head instead of the valve cover? And then there is another thing the original bolts have a little rounded edge underneath the bolt head. When you use a boat with a flat head then it might touch only apart of the surface of the fork that holds the injector down, isn’t that a problem? Thanks in advance I’m curious
or a brush that come with a kit, that is made out of hardened ropes and a spring around them to keep them strong and straight.. Use of ceramic paste will prevent any eventual corrosion effect..
I am one of the hard user of 2 stroke oil in a BMW 3 series M47 engine with 500k km at current day. Never ever missed a single start in UK weather! I am using it religiously, 250ml/50 liters of diesel! Results or effects? Read bellow: Clean intake manifold, original - cleaned once at 150k miles with 3-4mm deposits inside. And since use of 2 stroke oil, never again - and I dismatled 3-4 time since.. original swrill flaps (better version than E46..); original EGR, Original high pressure fuel pump; no sensors changed around the engine ever; never ever any errors on the exhaust.. or about the exhaust... INJECTORS? 🙂 Bosch solenoid injectors they lasted until almost 490k km (almost 300k mile) ONLY because of excessive return flow on two injectors (no lie..) ..when I took them out (after the return flow test done..)..no blockage what so ever at the tips(nozzles) of the injectors.. spraying area.. I verify them (2 injectors), being curios with brake cleaner - all clear, no deposits on the nozzle what so ever, AT ALMOST HALF MILLION KM! Just mild carbon around those holes, nothing to interfere. ..Took these 2 faulty injectors to a reputable BOSCH representative company in UK, Bench tested prior rebuild (...or my decision to rebuild, using their service or not..) and they found absolutely NOTHING in relation with what I measured and find myself.. into... (loud BANG while driving in one morning, like a pre-detonation, but the engine did not stopped..) so got concerned to do checks with the hand tester at the moment, then with ISTA later in the day.. No, they did not find anything with the reference or reasons I took the injectors to them. They even insisted that they won't warranty if they will rebuild my injectors, that this will eliminate the cause. Anyway, I rebuild them using their services, to factory specs, with warranty of the rebuild for 2 years. So. I am using and continue using 2 STROKE OIL until the end of time of diesel engines! There is no BUT for me. That is the additive for all diesel engine that will be under my maintenance! At the moment 2 vehicles , non-DPF takes 2 stroke oil JASO FB and DPF EURO 6 takes with the same regularity 250ml/50 liters of diesel JASO FB. The Euro 6 one is condemned to drive short distance (7-8 miles) every day! In 3 years never ever had DPF clogged up! The magic sits in this 2 stroke oil, even if you do not believe me, I do not care. I just wanna let the world know that the "placebo" effect of 2 stroke oil IS MAKING MAGIC actually. How much will you use a year? 5 liters for 15k mile per year. Is it much? You must be joking.. Remember what I said above, no sensors replaced on the engine in 11 years of ownership, the engine is as clean as it can be. It take 5W40 Shell pure plus, chagned every 14-15k miles... What more can I add? Joy for me, and I really want to share this with the world; do not give up on diesel. A, I forgot, every MOT has been passed without A problem, in terms of pollution factor.. bla bla bla.. at almost 500k km! Well, we all have to change air filter every year isn't it? Then all will be good. Well after so long time of use of this magic formula even the exhaust fumes smells slightly different.. but that is not a cause of concern..
Interesting post. I think what you've done is add lubricant to modern diesel fuel, which is what is missing in all modern bio diesel fuel. The E5 content and bio compatibility has caused no end of problems in older Diesels, boats, machinery ect, al due to lack of lubrication in modern diesel fuels. Effectively its corroding and infecting fuel lines and rotary and inline pumps. Adding any oil, not just two stroke type, to a tank of diesel for older engines is a no bad thing, as you have stated. 👍💯✔
I've seen Sprinters with the 'Black Death' on a massive scale. This van was run, unserviced, for over 200,000 miles with only oil top ups, no new oil filters etc. However, it started giving issues and a very good friend of mine was given the job of 'repair'🥴 Exit complete cylinder head as it was so carboned up beneath the plastic shroud, there was no space at all. He could've went through a thorough clean up but he had a spare, good head, to replace it. The cover ought to be removed on a 10,000 mls interval to check for leaks.
Just emailed you about my W211 with just about same issue - I replaced No1 injector (old had a small chip in seat) resurfaced injector seat but still not 100% hence contacting you guys 👍
I've used a 5mm clear tube taped to the vacuum cleaner hose to suck all the debris from the bolt hole before installing the new bolt. My understanding was that even liquid in the bolt hole will prevent the bolt from stretching properly and won't apply the correct torque to the injector. I was told it might even crack the head
I had a 320CDi in a 2001 W210 that had the same hold down arrangement for the injectors. I had two injector holding down bolts fail, as stretch bolts they cannot be tightened when they come loose but tightening them is the temptation (by others). The results from a loose injector blow-by was exceedingly messy on each occasion the clean-up took hours. I replaced the first sheared bolt with a new one (I still have the other 5 and grease) torqued to spec but the second one was sheared off below the head surface so I had to drill it out by hand. For safety, I overbored the hole to accept a M8 helicoil and Grade 12.9 cap head bolt torqued to 20ftlbs - no stretch. The holding down fork is hardened steel so I had to use a carbide drill to get clearance. It was reliable thereafter but I vowed to replace all the other M6 holding down bolts with the M8 cap head bolts and helicoils if one broke again, it is such a crappy design! Fortunately, I scrapped the W210 in 2009 due to persistent fueling failures and overall woefully poor quality especially when compared to my W124, which I still have. The W124 was built by engineers, the W210 by accountants.
This applies to all common rail engines actually, literally every single one since invention of common rails is exactly the same, copper washers, tie down bolts, injector clips, injector seats. Fantastic information
Foaming hand soap is a great leak detector. It is cheap, sticks for a few minutes, bubbles with the smallest air leak, flows away with the smallest liquid leak, and if desired washes off easily leaving a cleaner part.
Cool video. The OM642 service manual says 7Nm + 90deg + 90deg for the injector bolts. In other words, it's 90 degrees of torque TWICE. I'm not sure if it's the same for the OM648, but worth checking if you plan to do this job.
it is mechanical erosion. The air is moving so fast with soot particles, the steel grinds away like mountains in the wind. Basically, it just gets sandblasted... or... sootblasted.
Hi Luke, I am only 6.5 minutes into the video but I have an answer for your errosion/corrosion issue. Diesel fuel contains sulfer naturally in variring degrees depending on where it is sourced and while sulfer has been found to be a fantastic high pressure lubricant for the fuel injection components it is a problem as a pollutant and as a corrosive product in combination especially when the components are not hot enough, eg 165 F or above. Fuel companies have tried to eliminate sulfer completely from the fuel but the damage caused to the fuel system is remarkable. Hence some sulfer remain in the fuel. Why the injector is more damaged than the injector bore may have something to do with the head being kept hot via the thermostat and the injector being cooler because of the flow of fuel. Large diesel engines are brought up to 165 +F as quickly and as evenly as possible to prevent sulferic corrosion in the fire ring area of the cylinder. When this does occur it seems to affect the ferrous material of the components much more than the aluminium alloys, GKW, (God knows why).
We have just sent our W211 OM648 to the scrap yard. A previous mechanic had butchered the head by taking random amounts of metal from each injector seat, some far more than others. When removing the injectors (for a hard misfire) its apparent that all the seats are cracked from the head side, and all the injectors sit at different heights when re-installed. Not worth the time to sort now :(
this is fun, ive already had many of these diesel experiences with little to no specialty tools and as youve said nothing beats the slide hammer xD also for the copper washers me and my buddy back then took an old chepo china bolt extractor set and welded one that fit the inner diameter of the washers, and welded it to a very long screwdriver! no hitting the thing with a flathead, no scratching the seats, no damage the bore, if the washer did came out and we didnt notice, it wouldnt ruin the head in the process (as the material was so lame it barely could damage aluminium) for any other diesel after that vw amarok, it was a true learning experience 🤣
i wouldnt use a power tool to clean the injector base as you can cut too much i use the t handle or sometimes by hand and go by feel. Have a look and go again if needed those cutters really can cut!
I had the exact stuck injector problem, allthough on a completely other make and a completely different petrol engine. Had a few of them laying around, so ot was an easy fix, and i diagnosed it "analog" with a "long screwdriver-to ear" and was listening to it, if its silent, its dead. Of course beforehand you have to check the obvious stuff
I managed to sort this problem at home on my partners mini.. It actually spat the injector out and snapped the bolt and collar in half.. I bought a seat cutter after borrowing a blunt one from someone that did nothing lol.. Tightened it down with a new washer and bolt and a used injector and it's been fine for months.. Only thing I haven't done is coded the new injector in which I should get done I guess.. Seems OK though.
Cylinder 2 was running lean due to the leak. The injector at number two has prematurely aged due to the lean condition. Injector seal surface was damaged because the guy removing the previous injector hammered a flat blade screwdriver through the washer trying to get it out
It was common on some Peugeot injectors that if over torques would cause a hairline crack just like in the video, as the injector tip is thin walled at that point
I recognise the helicoiled injector bolt. I had a 270 abot 10 years ago that had a leaking injector, the local garge snapped the bolt & just used a bigger bolt helicoiled in. I expeced it to fail, never did..
You can buy that "cap" or nut for the injector separately for about 15 EUR. Much cheaper then buying a whole new (or used) injector. Mine is very similar, bosch part number is F00VC14016.
I really like this video. Very informative. Now I'm struggling with my OM648. There was visible blow-by and carbon at injectors 2 and 3. These came out relatively easy. I also replaced the sealing ring at #1. However injectors 4-6 are really stuck without any blow-by. Possibly they need some slide hammering. For the torque I found this in the factory manual "AR07.16-P-1000T": 7NM + 90deg + 90deg. However after the first 90 degrees It was very difficult to tighten so I haven't done the second 90 deg. I think something would have broken before the second 90. I'm confused. 🤔
The head is cooled, the injector is notso much. The injector catches all the heat and has little to sink it into, maybe a stud to replace the bolts, also possibly a girdle bolting on with all the retainers. To offer a slight bit more clamping force. Maybe drill the bolt hole out to M8 and use a stud, possibly M10 and make a new retainer!
Oh @17:30 that makes much more sense. Just carbon soaking combined with heated carbon soaking. Good temp fix but certainly not a proper fix with the bolt issue.
If the seat was fine do you need to cut them each time you replace the injector seals? I just done mine, I only cleaned the seat with Carby clean and inspected them all looked good so I didn’t worry about recutting the seat
Love your videos, incredibly well done and very informative! You did an M57 vs OM606 video. Do you have plans to do an OM606 vs OM648 video? Would be VERY interested to see that if it were ever to be made!!!
Possible reason for corroded injector 2 may a previous mechanics attempt to free it up by pouring something like oven pride in the hole to dissolve carbon deposits. Assume that didn't succeed and the caustic dissolved the injector.
Had an issue similar to this on my 1.5 DCI clio - same with the pulled threads. Apparently renault cylinder heads are made of chewing gum. All drilled and tapped to m10 from m8 using some capheads with spherical washers seems to working a treat.
You had a very fine carbon deposit on that thing there , and it started to glow. At a high temperature. There was no need for a chemical reaction beyond.
Is pretty weird seeing those pretty long injectors in the case I own a W123. How things have chanhed since, in order to incresae power. I own a Bora VW 1.9 TDI and the injectors seems similar. Thanks for the videos
The best thing to find leaks like that even when its dirty and noisy is 4 feet of hose pipe one end in your ear and just poke with other end and even better you can poke under then silly rubber covers
It's tiny aluminium shavings. No big deal inside the cylinder, but most of it won't fall in. What I would do different however is run the reamer by finger tips. It doesn't take much at all for most injector seats
When the injector compression washer goes there is slight up and down movement with the injector..together with carbon it acts like sandpaper...and the rest is what you have at number 2 injector.....
Min 6:30 Carbón deposits in the injector housing may cause a fault in the refrigeration of the injector. Added to the combustión gases, the combination of these causes may erode metal base of the injector.
"Throw that T-bar in the bin- it's torture" Wish I had that knowledge in advance. I thought I was prepared having that seat cutting kit with no experience and i didn't remove anything. Are the CDI injector hold-down stretch M6 bolts the same size as a stock om606 intake bolt?
I have used MAP gas torches to heat the injector and burnout the carbon on more than one occasion, obviously you have to remove everything from the injector and surrounding area and take precuations with fuel sources first.
Your torque spec for the hold down bolt is incorrect. I put a dot of fingernail polish on the bolthead so I could see my 90°.It should be 7 Newton meters +90+90 that’s 180°, but don’t take my word for it check the WIS.
I neted fast reply ,i have an 1.9 cdti Opel vivaro with i think it has bad injectors because from inject.4 you can hear an slight sss and air coming out from its side ,also heavy black smoke comes out the exhaust along with the glow plug light ,any idea of what is happening with it ?
I just folow your videos , i will one day buy a w 211 320cdi . So , if u please could answer what brand and tipe of coolant to put on an old vectra b 2.2 dti 16v , and has a few days daily i notice a big lack of torque and i hould expect a litle bit of more power , but its for daily rides to work and i like to ride 😅 . Glad for your videos .
condition of injector ie heat build up may be the injector is working but there is a fuel blockage hence its not cooling with cold fuel flowing so the friction plus heat from ignition would heat up the injector to discolor the tip
Update . Injectors came out no issues ! I’m almost done . I stupidly put a cam seal in backwards but, other then that . I just got the EGR, EGR cooler and mixing chamber to put back then I get to start it . That will be Monday
I may be incorrect, but if I remember the diesel on your side of the pond has more sulfer, during combustion with extra oxygen above the afr, the ECU calls for may be inducing mode o2 causing slight sulfer co oxygen mix that is a pain in the butt
Not sure about UK go-juice, but at one point, GM was taking legal action against the fuel in North America for that reason, though to be honest I don't recall if it was gasoline, diesel, or both.
They make a puller slap fork tool for under the injector. Why not change the valve cover gasket. Its a known issue heat gets it too close to exhaust heat and leaks oil. This is my next job. Hope I don't need a seat reamer
Why don't you use soap water or some other kind of stuff so you can spot the leaks more accurately? Just asking cause I am currently learning the trade
I've got a 1973 Series 1 Jaguar XJ6, I want to fit a diesel engine to it as it is a gutless 2.8 auto and i love diesels, My daily is a 2003 Volvo V70 D5 manual, I've got a clutch conversion kit for it and a 3.54 powerlock rear axle out of an XJS, What is the best Merc diesel engine to go with? An OM606?
Injector body heat first because of water and then damage melt seal . Common rail injector are very sensible to water. At school they told us common rail system is very performing but water really damage them . We have water Filter protection that need to be purge or its really bad . If iam not wrong I beleive no car having filter protection .
@@TonytheCarEnthusiast nah come on, the bolts are designed for that. You'd strip the M6 thread in the head before a new bolt snaps. I read someone's suggestion of using a 24" breaker bar to do 90 + 90 so that you don't feel bad when it resists, and that works very well.
I once had the same where by during induction the diesel sucked in the cylinder n during combustion injectors was part of combustion chamber don't know how but it was like that
![[MV] A leap of faith...ความเชื่อใจครั้งสุดท้าย (From "Petrichor the series")](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/U1piZH2CNXA/mqdefault.jpg)
Finally some good professional to explain and show the real things! Thank you very much for this video !
The problem with this engine and mercedes sprinter is the stretch bolt as you mentioned. The failure for sure is the m6 stretch bolt. I helicoil them and install a larger bolt. Ran a sprinter for 8 years+ without this issue. It's not the copper washer failing its the bolt that stretches and starts to leak at the seal.
i always install new strech bolts.
If i remember correctly instruction says:
tighten with amount X NM and then 2x90°. --> i just do 1x90° and it works fine
@harrismalouda8193 I always use tighten them with manufacturers recommendations and had injectors leak after 6 months of heavy delivery driving miles. After using bigger bolts didn't ever have a problem with them throughout the 6 years of that van.
@@abuhaqq What size were the larger bolts. Also, do you put the helicoils on the thread and then put the bolts?
@mbz4652 if I remember it was a 9mm Allen key. And I used the helicoil tool to thread it into the hole then removed the tool. Remember you have to make when that bolt bolt bottoms out do not turn it anymore otherwise it will rip the helicoil out. I found the best method is to measure using washers. For example before the bolt bottoms out add 2 washers between your injector clamp and bolt. I got black bolts from James listers.
Just noted your post, I had the same issue on my 320CDi, see my post above and used M8 cap head bolt with helicoil for a permanent cure
Thank you my good lad for such a perfect explanation. Here in poland we have these "mechanics" that would charge you your house and fuck up job like this, now thanks to you im doing it myself and i get to keep my house!
Kisses.
Use 2 stroke oil, read my experience above. Is real and genuine.
I did a similar job on same engine. While cleaning up seat area I took glow plug out and blew compressed air in and out of the injector hole to keep combustion chamber clean. My injector wasn't damaged like yours but took a huge amount of persuading to get out.
PS Thank you for ALL your uploads - very informative.
Small chips of aluminum from cutting probably would do zero damage to the piston or cylinder walls anyway.
Love your laconic delivery...... and practical advice with no nonsense tips...
If you pack the cutter with heavy grease the chips will stick in it and come out with the cutter.
There are a few tricks to making these better than mercs half-assed factory solution. Dont use the factory merc washers, or the shitty aftermarket ones, they are generally crap. They are basically flat in cross-section, and too hard, which is a poor design, from a crush/sealing perspective. Think of an oring. Some people use a honda diesel injector washer, these are definitely better, have more of an elliptical cross section and are softer and slightly thicker if you have to recut the seat. I actually lathed myself up a small press tool, annealed a set of new factory washers, then formed them into a shape which has point contact on the upper and lower faces of the washer. I then re annealed them after forming to make them soft so the newly formed peaks would crush on installation. I then installed, and went by the updated merc spec of 7nm plus 2x90deg. No leaks in 50000km, still clean as a whistle. One of my bolts also had a dodgy repair like your number 6, tapped into rocker cover. I reinstalled that as the old stretch bolt still stuck in head. No issues at all on my 350km om612. Your method needs a little fine tuning dpuk, and i would suggest you look at making better washers, that is the opportunity. Im a mechanical engineer btw, so seal design is something i care about.
Thanks. I bought a 2005 MB E320 CDI Sedan with 192,000miles 2 years ago it now has 238,000 miles changed Thermostat and glow plugs, but lots of noises from front end suspension.
you fixed it?
@@cali_cal everything except the front-end suspension.
If you can use 2 stroke oil, read my comment. Is real experience and genuine.
A common issue with many later MB diesels. I’ve had some right ordeals getting stuck injectors out. On a number of engines, not just MB. The M7 bolt upgrade is definitely the way forward as a permanent solution. Very informative vid.
I actually go to m10 and be done with it, and that only requires 2cm ish ish of new threads, you dont even need to drill anything out, use the stock larger bolthole in the head and thread up that
Hi I have a few questions,
What length of bolts do you use in M10?
And how deep do you have to go to be in the cylinder head instead of the valve cover?
And then there is another thing the original bolts have a little rounded edge underneath the bolt head.
When you use a boat with a flat head then it might touch only apart of the surface of the fork that holds the injector down, isn’t that a problem?
Thanks in advance I’m curious
@@marceldeweij1001 Did you find out?
DO NOT under any circumstances use a drill with a cutter to resurface the injector seats, light fingertip pressure is all you need.
or a brush that come with a kit, that is made out of hardened ropes and a spring around them to keep them strong and straight..
Use of ceramic paste will prevent any eventual corrosion effect..
Do under EVERY circumstance use a drill with the cutter, use your brain don't push hard and it's fine.
I am one of the hard user of 2 stroke oil in a BMW 3 series M47 engine with 500k km at current day.
Never ever missed a single start in UK weather! I am using it religiously, 250ml/50 liters of diesel!
Results or effects?
Read bellow:
Clean intake manifold, original - cleaned once at 150k miles with 3-4mm deposits inside. And since use of 2 stroke oil, never again - and I dismatled 3-4 time since.. original swrill flaps (better version than E46..); original EGR, Original high pressure fuel pump; no sensors changed around the engine ever; never ever any errors on the exhaust.. or about the exhaust...
INJECTORS? 🙂 Bosch solenoid injectors they lasted until almost 490k km (almost 300k mile) ONLY because of excessive return flow on two injectors (no lie..) ..when I took them out (after the return flow test done..)..no blockage what so ever at the tips(nozzles) of the injectors.. spraying area.. I verify them (2 injectors), being curios with brake cleaner - all clear, no deposits on the nozzle what so ever, AT ALMOST HALF MILLION KM! Just mild carbon around those holes, nothing to interfere.
..Took these 2 faulty injectors to a reputable BOSCH representative company in UK, Bench tested prior rebuild (...or my decision to rebuild, using their service or not..) and they found absolutely NOTHING in relation with what I measured and find myself.. into... (loud BANG while driving in one morning, like a pre-detonation, but the engine did not stopped..) so got concerned to do checks with the hand tester at the moment, then with ISTA later in the day..
No, they did not find anything with the reference or reasons I took the injectors to them. They even insisted that they won't warranty if they will rebuild my injectors, that this will eliminate the cause.
Anyway, I rebuild them using their services, to factory specs, with warranty of the rebuild for 2 years.
So. I am using and continue using 2 STROKE OIL until the end of time of diesel engines! There is no BUT for me. That is the additive for all diesel engine that will be under my maintenance!
At the moment 2 vehicles , non-DPF takes 2 stroke oil JASO FB and DPF EURO 6 takes with the same regularity 250ml/50 liters of diesel JASO FB. The Euro 6 one is condemned to drive short distance (7-8 miles) every day! In 3 years never ever had DPF clogged up! The magic sits in this 2 stroke oil, even if you do not believe me, I do not care. I just wanna let the world know that the "placebo" effect of 2 stroke oil IS MAKING MAGIC actually.
How much will you use a year? 5 liters for 15k mile per year. Is it much? You must be joking.. Remember what I said above, no sensors replaced on the engine in 11 years of ownership, the engine is as clean as it can be. It take 5W40 Shell pure plus, chagned every 14-15k miles...
What more can I add? Joy for me, and I really want to share this with the world; do not give up on diesel.
A, I forgot, every MOT has been passed without A problem, in terms of pollution factor.. bla bla bla.. at almost 500k km! Well, we all have to change air filter every year isn't it? Then all will be good.
Well after so long time of use of this magic formula even the exhaust fumes smells slightly different.. but that is not a cause of concern..
Interesting post. I think what you've done is add lubricant to modern diesel fuel, which is what is missing in all modern bio diesel fuel. The E5 content and bio compatibility has caused no end of problems in older Diesels, boats, machinery ect, al due to lack of lubrication in modern diesel fuels. Effectively its corroding and infecting fuel lines and rotary and inline pumps. Adding any oil, not just two stroke type, to a tank of diesel for older engines is a no bad thing, as you have stated. 👍💯✔
I'm pleased to see your videos are very high quality since the channel started thanks for the uploads!
I've seen Sprinters with the 'Black Death' on a massive scale.
This van was run, unserviced, for over 200,000 miles with only oil top ups, no new oil filters etc.
However, it started giving issues and a very good friend of mine was given the job of 'repair'🥴
Exit complete cylinder head as it was so carboned up beneath the plastic shroud, there was no space at all.
He could've went through a thorough clean up but he had a spare, good head, to replace it.
The cover ought to be removed on a 10,000 mls interval to check for leaks.
Just emailed you about my W211 with just about same issue - I replaced No1 injector (old had a small chip in seat) resurfaced injector seat but still not 100% hence contacting you guys 👍
I recently used an 8mm bit of copper tube taped onto a shop vac to vacuum right down in there whilst using it to scrape carbon off.
Paper towel and acetone on a stick and 99% of carbon will melt away.
I've used a 5mm clear tube taped to the vacuum cleaner hose to suck all the debris from the bolt hole before installing the new bolt. My understanding was that even liquid in the bolt hole will prevent the bolt from stretching properly and won't apply the correct torque to the injector. I was told it might even crack the head
I had a 320CDi in a 2001 W210 that had the same hold down arrangement for the injectors. I had two injector holding down bolts fail, as stretch bolts they cannot be tightened when they come loose but tightening them is the temptation (by others). The results from a loose injector blow-by was exceedingly messy on each occasion the clean-up took hours. I replaced the first sheared bolt with a new one (I still have the other 5 and grease) torqued to spec but the second one was sheared off below the head surface so I had to drill it out by hand. For safety, I overbored the hole to accept a M8 helicoil and Grade 12.9 cap head bolt torqued to 20ftlbs - no stretch. The holding down fork is hardened steel so I had to use a carbide drill to get clearance. It was reliable thereafter but I vowed to replace all the other M6 holding down bolts with the M8 cap head bolts and helicoils if one broke again, it is such a crappy design! Fortunately, I scrapped the W210 in 2009 due to persistent fueling failures and overall woefully poor quality especially when compared to my W124, which I still have. The W124 was built by engineers, the W210 by accountants.
This applies to all common rail engines actually, literally every single one since invention of common rails is exactly the same, copper washers, tie down bolts, injector clips, injector seats. Fantastic information
Pos designed
You can also leave the stuck injector in, install the rest and start the engine. The compression should blow it out.
And put a hole in your roof :D
have had good success on this with glowplugs. it took a thrashing to get it to pop out though
Foaming hand soap is a great leak detector. It is cheap, sticks for a few minutes, bubbles with the smallest air leak, flows away with the smallest liquid leak, and if desired washes off easily leaving a cleaner part.
Hello from Moosomin,Saskatchewan you have great videos and great at communicating. Thanks for sharing 😊
Cool video. The OM642 service manual says 7Nm + 90deg + 90deg for the injector bolts. In other words, it's 90 degrees of torque TWICE. I'm not sure if it's the same for the OM648, but worth checking if you plan to do this job.
it is mechanical erosion. The air is moving so fast with soot particles, the steel grinds away like mountains in the wind. Basically, it just gets sandblasted... or... sootblasted.
Hi Luke, I am only 6.5 minutes into the video but I have an answer for your errosion/corrosion issue. Diesel fuel contains sulfer naturally in variring degrees depending on where it is sourced and while sulfer has been found to be a fantastic high pressure lubricant for the fuel injection components it is a problem as a pollutant and as a corrosive product in combination especially when the components are not hot enough, eg 165 F or above. Fuel companies have tried to eliminate sulfer completely from the fuel but the damage caused to the fuel system is remarkable. Hence some sulfer remain in the fuel.
Why the injector is more damaged than the injector bore may have something to do with the head being kept hot via the thermostat and the injector being cooler because of the flow of fuel. Large diesel engines are brought up to 165 +F as quickly and as evenly as possible to prevent sulferic corrosion in the fire ring area of the cylinder. When this does occur it seems to affect the ferrous material of the components much more than the aluminium alloys, GKW, (God knows why).
We have just sent our W211 OM648 to the scrap yard. A previous mechanic had butchered the head by taking random amounts of metal from each injector seat, some far more than others. When removing the injectors (for a hard misfire) its apparent that all the seats are cracked from the head side, and all the injectors sit at different heights when re-installed. Not worth the time to sort now :(
Ouch. All it took me was running the reamer on the finger tips
@@guganotuboyou are correct, practically no pressure needed, imagine telling people to use a drill, talk about a butcher.
this is fun, ive already had many of these diesel experiences with little to no specialty tools and as youve said nothing beats the slide hammer xD also for the copper washers me and my buddy back then took an old chepo china bolt extractor set and welded one that fit the inner diameter of the washers, and welded it to a very long screwdriver! no hitting the thing with a flathead, no scratching the seats, no damage the bore, if the washer did came out and we didnt notice, it wouldnt ruin the head in the process (as the material was so lame it barely could damage aluminium) for any other diesel after that vw amarok, it was a true learning experience 🤣
working for benz around 8 years now and never ever have seen such damage on a steel body injector !!! .. all the other stuff is pretty normal.
i wouldnt use a power tool to clean the injector base as you can cut too much
i use the t handle or sometimes by hand and go by feel. Have a look and go again if needed
those cutters really can cut!
Your serious, but also funny and witty. Good videos mate, even though I’ll never have a diesel
Also nice connector zip tie job brother, Ford approved on their loose connections recalls.
I had the exact stuck injector problem, allthough on a completely other make and a completely different petrol engine. Had a few of them laying around, so ot was an easy fix, and i diagnosed it "analog" with a "long screwdriver-to ear" and was listening to it, if its silent, its dead. Of course beforehand you have to check the obvious stuff
great video. Very instructive. Fun to watch. I like your style
I managed to sort this problem at home on my partners mini.. It actually spat the injector out and snapped the bolt and collar in half.. I bought a seat cutter after borrowing a blunt one from someone that did nothing lol.. Tightened it down with a new washer and bolt and a used injector and it's been fine for months.. Only thing I haven't done is coded the new injector in which I should get done I guess.. Seems OK though.
Cylinder 2 was running lean due to the leak. The injector at number two has prematurely aged due to the lean condition. Injector seal surface was damaged because the guy removing the previous injector hammered a flat blade screwdriver through the washer trying to get it out
The air leak wouldn't have affected the fuel injection quantity so it would have run rich.
@@fascistpedant758 That's what I thought too.
We heard nothing so I'm gonna assume you set it on fire!!!!! 🤣🤣🤣🤣
Love the videos i love the benz diesels starting with 617 engine. I wish i could have trained under this guy.
I have done a lot of them with timesert thread repair ...but the 7mm looks good too
It was common on some Peugeot injectors that if over torques would cause a hairline crack just like in the video, as the injector tip is thin walled at that point
Can't beat the non-filtered naration. Great to be free of the PC bullsh!t.
I recognise the helicoiled injector bolt. I had a 270 abot 10 years ago that had a leaking injector, the local garge snapped the bolt & just used a bigger bolt helicoiled in. I expeced it to fail, never did..
love to see more OM613/OM648 content
the om64x series stuff is what most people are working with at the moment
You can buy that "cap" or nut for the injector separately for about 15 EUR. Much cheaper then buying a whole new (or used) injector. Mine is very similar, bosch part number is F00VC14016.
I really like this video. Very informative. Now I'm struggling with my OM648. There was visible blow-by and carbon at injectors 2 and 3. These came out relatively easy. I also replaced the sealing ring at #1. However injectors 4-6 are really stuck without any blow-by. Possibly they need some slide hammering.
For the torque I found this in the factory manual "AR07.16-P-1000T": 7NM + 90deg + 90deg. However after the first 90 degrees It was very difficult to tighten so I haven't done the second 90 deg. I think something would have broken before the second 90. I'm confused. 🤔
Gdi injectors have the same problems. Missing clips and all. But injector seals are a frequent failure point.
The head is cooled, the injector is notso much. The injector catches all the heat and has little to sink it into, maybe a stud to replace the bolts, also possibly a girdle bolting on with all the retainers. To offer a slight bit more clamping force. Maybe drill the bolt hole out to M8 and use a stud, possibly M10 and make a new retainer!
Oh @17:30 that makes much more sense. Just carbon soaking combined with heated carbon soaking. Good temp fix but certainly not a proper fix with the bolt issue.
i usually use a wood screw to get the seal out on TDI engines and ofc not reusing it
I work in a marine diesel fuel shop and we get it a lot. Cold erosion👍🏼
What do u mean cold erosion?
@@krimke881 google it 👍🏼
@@hughjarse4627 found nothing.
maybe some 2 stroke oil would cure it.. / just sayin.. ;-)
the tightening torque is 9nm plus 90º plus 90º.
7Nm to seat the bolt, and 90º x2 to spring it. (I think 9Nm is wrong, but little difference; probably works either way)
@@guganotubo ok
If the seat was fine do you need to cut them each time you replace the injector seals? I just done mine, I only cleaned the seat with Carby clean and inspected them all looked good so I didn’t worry about recutting the seat
Love your videos, incredibly well done and very informative! You did an M57 vs OM606 video. Do you have plans to do an OM606 vs OM648 video? Would be VERY interested to see that if it were ever to be made!!!
Is the torque spec different for the m7 bolts?
When the combustion gasses leak past the injector, you get a very distinct smell from the engine. It's a good early indication.
Thank you for a very informative video. I have a question: what kind of chemicals did you use in your ultrasonic cleaner to clean the injectors?
Possible reason for corroded injector 2 may a previous mechanics attempt to free it up by pouring something like oven pride in the hole to dissolve carbon deposits. Assume that didn't succeed and the caustic dissolved the injector.
You can buy a proper attachment for the 648 injectors that goes on a slide hammer if you haven’t got a tig welder At home 🙌
Had an issue similar to this on my 1.5 DCI clio - same with the pulled threads. Apparently renault cylinder heads are made of chewing gum. All drilled and tapped to m10 from m8 using some capheads with spherical washers seems to working a treat.
Good video Mate The Mrs Is tormenting you ❤
You had a very fine carbon deposit on that thing there , and it started to glow. At a high temperature. There was no need for a chemical reaction beyond.
Is pretty weird seeing those pretty long injectors in the case I own a W123. How things have chanhed since, in order to incresae power. I own a Bora VW 1.9 TDI and the injectors seems similar. Thanks for the videos
Apparently the Nissan NV200 copper seals are a superior quality and fit the Mercedes injectors.
The m7 bolts are sprinter spec bolts and good up grade for these engines if got the bottle lol
The best thing to find leaks like that even when its dirty and noisy is 4 feet of hose pipe one end in your ear and just poke with other end and even better you can poke under then silly rubber covers
Is the vacuum cleaner enough not to let grindings go into the cylinder? Great tech vid, your explanation was perfect! Ciao from Italy 👍🏻
just put some grease when grind, grease will catch all
It's tiny aluminium shavings. No big deal inside the cylinder, but most of it won't fall in. What I would do different however is run the reamer by finger tips. It doesn't take much at all for most injector seats
The best copper washer to use on the om612 diesel are Honda cdti washers. They are around 2.2mm as apposed to mecedes 1.5mm.
Hi, Do you know Honda washers part number ?
@@1987yuksel you ever find out?
When the injector compression washer goes there is slight up and down movement with the injector..together with carbon it acts like sandpaper...and the rest is what you have at number 2 injector.....
i think the m7 bolts are same as the ones you will find in om651 engines,if am not wrong
Min 6:30 Carbón deposits in the injector housing may cause a fault in the refrigeration of the injector. Added to the combustión gases, the combination of these causes may erode metal base of the injector.
Great video, real life,thanks
"Throw that T-bar in the bin- it's torture" Wish I had that knowledge in advance.
I thought I was prepared having that seat cutting kit with no experience and i didn't remove anything.
Are the CDI injector hold-down stretch M6 bolts the same size as a stock om606 intake bolt?
INTERESANTE ESTA REPARACION Y ESOS TRUCOS
I have used MAP gas torches to heat the injector and burnout the carbon on more than one occasion, obviously you have to remove everything from the injector and surrounding area and take precuations with fuel sources first.
Will a bad injector on these cause a harsh engine vibration under moderate load? Only between 80-90mph, car is running extremely rich as well
11:36 🤣 Love your humor man
Your torque spec for the hold down bolt is incorrect. I put a dot of fingernail polish on the bolthead so I could see my 90°.It should be 7 Newton meters +90+90 that’s 180°, but don’t take my word for it check the WIS.
I neted fast reply ,i have an 1.9 cdti Opel vivaro with i think it has bad injectors because from inject.4 you can hear an slight sss and air coming out from its side ,also heavy black smoke comes out the exhaust along with the glow plug light ,any idea of what is happening with it ?
I just folow your videos , i will one day buy a w 211 320cdi .
So , if u please could answer what brand and tipe of coolant to put on an old vectra b 2.2 dti 16v , and has a few days daily i notice a big lack of torque and i hould expect a litle bit of more power , but its for daily rides to work and i like to ride 😅 .
Glad for your videos .
Would you say it's worth pulling and reseating all my injectors at about 200k miles?
I would say thats opening a can or worms if it is leak free.
condition of injector ie heat build up may be the injector is working but there is a fuel blockage hence its not cooling with cold fuel flowing so the friction plus heat from ignition would heat up the injector to discolor the tip
Great informative and honest video 👍👍
I work on Sprinter Vans. I have to replaced a timing chain on one. And I have to remove the injectors on a OM642. This is not giving me confidence
Update . Injectors came out no issues ! I’m almost done . I stupidly put a cam seal in backwards but, other then that . I just got the EGR, EGR cooler and mixing chamber to put back then I get to start it . That will be Monday
I may be incorrect, but if I remember the diesel on your side of the pond has more sulfer, during combustion with extra oxygen above the afr, the ECU calls for may be inducing mode o2 causing slight sulfer co oxygen mix that is a pain in the butt
Not sure about UK go-juice, but at one point, GM was taking legal action against the fuel in North America for that reason, though to be honest I don't recall if it was gasoline, diesel, or both.
Afaik uk/eu has a limit of 10ppm sulphur in diesel
So You never really had black death in your life ? :D CUTE !
They make a puller slap fork tool for under the injector. Why not change the valve cover gasket. Its a known issue heat gets it too close to exhaust heat and leaks oil. This is my next job. Hope I don't need a seat reamer
If you had a leaking seal for a while you will need to ream either the head seat or the injector body. Sometimes both.
I'm a bit shocked that merc has the same lump in it, it left the factory with.
Why don't you use soap water or some other kind of stuff so you can spot the leaks more accurately? Just asking cause I am currently learning the trade
I've got a 1973 Series 1 Jaguar XJ6, I want to fit a diesel engine to it as it is a gutless 2.8 auto and i love diesels, My daily is a 2003 Volvo V70 D5 manual, I've got a clutch conversion kit for it and a 3.54 powerlock rear axle out of an XJS, What is the best Merc diesel engine to go with? An OM606?
Injector body heat first because of water and then damage melt seal . Common rail injector are very sensible to water. At school they told us common rail system is very performing but water really damage them . We have water Filter protection that need to be purge or its really bad . If iam not wrong I beleive no car having filter protection .
How did You fix the leaking fuel line,, idid not understand what you did.
Are you sure the spec isn't 90º + 90º? I've done about 15x OM642 injectors like that and feels just right.
I dont want to break a bolt! mercedes wis says 90+90 but i only go for 90 once!
@@TonytheCarEnthusiast nah come on, the bolts are designed for that. You'd strip the M6 thread in the head before a new bolt snaps. I read someone's suggestion of using a 24" breaker bar to do 90 + 90 so that you don't feel bad when it resists, and that works very well.
I purposefully refuse to memorize torquing specifications to circumvent mistakes…. Rtfm
I once had the same where by during induction the diesel sucked in the cylinder n during combustion injectors was part of combustion chamber don't know how but it was like that
Im Hintergrund schön am fräsen 😁
I think these marks could also be erosion damage of the injector seat.
Sealey make a special kit now to repair this issue
Did you have to code the injectors to the vehicle?
Yes you should, I did not
On what part you tell "rocker cover? ? Is this the valve cover?
Thanks
Help the bolt of the pin for the inyector just broke in half!! What can i do??
When we getting a GMC vid?
You can just use the fucked injecter nut to weld to your slide hammer truck nut
Love your videos dude 👍