What an amazing video. The camera is just in the perfect spot you can see everything he's doing he labels every socket or tool that you'll need to use and he goes through it step-by-step and puts all the back together step-by-step and explain stuff. it's great what an amazing mechanic and teacher
Torque Specs: Lug Nut: 100 lb ft Axle Nut: 148 lb ft Wheel Hub Assembly to Knuckle: 98 lb ft Caliper to Caliper Bracket: 22 lb ft Caliper Bracket to Knuckle: 111 lb ft Strut to Knuckle (2 large bolts): 173 lb ft This is based on a 2015 Ford Fusion Titanium 2.0, but it is likely the same for the 2014 model shown in this video. (Edit 6/30/24: corrected "Strut to Caliper" to read "Strut to Knuckle"
I did Roadside Assistance for a while. Either the Lugnuts were finger tight or I had to have a 24 inch bar with a 2ft pipe-extension to break them loose. Since years ago of doing that, I’ve always had a torque wrench, the right size lug socket And the breaker bar in my trunk. Also, thanks for the torques info. I’ll be doing this shortly, but I’ll also be replacing the strut towers. So thanks again for the technical info!
@@martycopley you're very welcome....I see that I wrote "strut to caliper" but I assume I meant "strut to knuckle," hopefully I didn't confuse anyone I did mobile auto repair for four years. I miss doing it but being the primary caretaker of my son, I just didn't have time to do it. Maybe some day I'll get to do it again.
@@mattmgarza I figured. Got the hub bearing on hand, and started. Noticed the inner band around the cv axle is torn. Was going to compline. But I’m Not doing this twice. Ordered axle. Just hoping the bearing holds until it arrives. LOL
@@martycopley like one of the bands that holds the boot into place? It seems like they're so affordable if bought online that it doesn't take a lot that's wrong with them before it makes sense to just get a new/rebuilt one. I recently got a rebuilt cv axle with intermediate shaft from Detroit Axle for a customer and it's been great.
Quality video man. Thanks for the upload. I have a '14 Fusion Titanium AWD that I'm going to be replacing both CV axles on. I can't find any videos on that specifically, but this helps alot. I'm gonna go ahead and change the the hub assemblies, rotors, and brakes all the way around while I'm in there.
I like the video. One note, I think you are wrong about "the green thing" at 12:50. It is supposed to be there. If I am wrong, please correct me, but I think I have read that it is part of the axle assembly. It's a thrust washer, and it's on the Ford Parts website along with the other parts of the assembly. I bought two new axles recently, and the both came with thrust washers. It's not left over from the old wheel bearing. I used this video to change my own wheel bearing. It helped enormously.
The green thing on the axle @12:48 looks like a thrust washer and should be added to some Ford models. There is a technical service bulletin (TSB) about adding that thrust washer on the axle after the fact. I have a 2013 Ford Fusion and the TSB is 13-5-24. FYI.
Nice video. Wish we had the heat here! I didn't see you note any torque settings for anything, is it required that things be torqued to a specific value?
That green axle washer that you threw out doesn’t come with the new bearing and is necessary. You’re also damaged your bolts that hold the strut to the hub, you even stated you loosen the, from the wrong side, then you tightened from the wrong side.
My fusion is throwing a wheel speed sensor code, and has also thrown a tone ring mechanical failure code. I did not see a tone ring as you were taking this apart. What is the wheel speed sensor reading? The axle or the bearing?
Can you say what brand or type of grease you used in the three different areas? Wheel bearing hub, CV Axle, and brand pad contact points? Side note, incredible video, I will be using this to change my wheel bearings later.
Hey I have a 2014 Lincoln MKZ and my wheel shakes I change everything except the wheel burns and it still shake could that be the problem and was your shaking that’s why you change the bearings
The second I saw you let the caliper dangle by the brake line you lost all your mechanical credibility i wouldn't let ya do my brakes for sure. Buy you some caliper Hangers! They're cheap cheap and will save you a headache of replacing that brake hose when you bust one where they're crimped to the caliper they WILL leak from hanging by it's own weight luckily that car isn't too old. Still good video though and good camera work all in all. Also that green washer is part of the cv axle assembly and is pretty important, it protects the mating surfaces of the axle/bearing preventing burring/friction.
Don't think he claimed to be a pro, instead of laughing at the guy and calling him a rookie why not educate him by explaining. People that come on here to point out small mistakes after clearly looking online for help and watched the video to do the same repairs technically puts us all in the rookie category no?
Well I disagree with that we are all definitely not rookies but I agree with the rest of your statements first listen if you haven't had one of those sockets shatter and hit you can you even call yourself a mechanic? Lol, he had some good stuff helpful and good camera work to see things, then he went ahead and commented all the torque specs for everything he showed in the video. I'd take one of him over ten other guys I'd normally get on a job, so yeah, good work man thanks for the info. there's definitely some tips and tricks you can learn along the way and get better at. keep posting and asking and weeding through the bs to get to the real advice
What an amazing video. The camera is just in the perfect spot you can see everything he's doing he labels every socket or tool that you'll need to use and he goes through it step-by-step and puts all the back together step-by-step and explain stuff. it's great what an amazing mechanic and teacher
Torque Specs:
Lug Nut: 100 lb ft
Axle Nut: 148 lb ft
Wheel Hub Assembly to Knuckle: 98 lb ft
Caliper to Caliper Bracket: 22 lb ft
Caliper Bracket to Knuckle: 111 lb ft
Strut to Knuckle (2 large bolts): 173 lb ft
This is based on a 2015 Ford Fusion Titanium 2.0, but it is likely the same for the 2014 model shown in this video. (Edit 6/30/24: corrected "Strut to Caliper" to read "Strut to Knuckle"
I did Roadside Assistance for a while. Either the Lugnuts were finger tight or I had to have a 24 inch bar with a 2ft pipe-extension to break them loose. Since years ago of doing that, I’ve always had a torque wrench, the right size lug socket And the breaker bar in my trunk.
Also, thanks for the torques info. I’ll be doing this shortly, but I’ll also be replacing the strut towers. So thanks again for the technical info!
@@martycopley you're very welcome....I see that I wrote "strut to caliper" but I assume I meant "strut to knuckle," hopefully I didn't confuse anyone
I did mobile auto repair for four years. I miss doing it but being the primary caretaker of my son, I just didn't have time to do it. Maybe some day I'll get to do it again.
@@mattmgarza I figured. Got the hub bearing on hand, and started. Noticed the inner band around the cv axle is torn. Was going to compline. But I’m Not doing this twice. Ordered axle. Just hoping the bearing holds until it arrives. LOL
@@martycopley like one of the bands that holds the boot into place? It seems like they're so affordable if bought online that it doesn't take a lot that's wrong with them before it makes sense to just get a new/rebuilt one. I recently got a rebuilt cv axle with intermediate shaft from Detroit Axle for a customer and it's been great.
Quality video man. Thanks for the upload. I have a '14 Fusion Titanium AWD that I'm going to be replacing both CV axles on. I can't find any videos on that specifically, but this helps alot. I'm gonna go ahead and change the the hub assemblies, rotors, and brakes all the way around while I'm in there.
You can look up any ford with the same engine and it should be similar. Glad it helped
I like the video. One note, I think you are wrong about "the green thing" at 12:50. It is supposed to be there. If I am wrong, please correct me, but I think I have read that it is part of the axle assembly. It's a thrust washer, and it's on the Ford Parts website along with the other parts of the assembly. I bought two new axles recently, and the both came with thrust washers. It's not left over from the old wheel bearing.
I used this video to change my own wheel bearing. It helped enormously.
I hope you didn't throw out the thrust washer , premature bearing failure !!!!!
This will help me a lot i need to put new hubs on my fusion. Thank you very much.
Glad it helped
Just followed this video and made the fix today. Many thanks
thanks alot, awaiting parts to do this with my husband!
Thanks allot your video was helpful.
Glad it helped
The green thing on the axle @12:48 looks like a thrust washer and should be added to some Ford models. There is a technical service bulletin (TSB) about adding that thrust washer on the axle after the fact. I have a 2013 Ford Fusion and the TSB is 13-5-24. FYI.
Your right .
Nice video. Wish we had the heat here! I didn't see you note any torque settings for anything, is it required that things be torqued to a specific value?
Yes. Torque spec is important
That green axle washer that you threw out doesn’t come with the new bearing and is necessary. You’re also damaged your bolts that hold the strut to the hub, you even stated you loosen the, from the wrong side, then you tightened from the wrong side.
The green thing on the CV axle is actually a thrust washer and is supposed to be there.
Great video!!
Can you just press the hub assembly out without disconnecting the strut assembly? With a bolt and nut and washer?
Two things loc tite on the strut bolts and mark them to save the alignment!!!
My 2014 se fusion doesnt have that silver brake pad caliper hold down thing you put back on at the end.
My fusion is throwing a wheel speed sensor code, and has also thrown a tone ring mechanical failure code. I did not see a tone ring as you were taking this apart. What is the wheel speed sensor reading? The axle or the bearing?
Can you say what brand or type of grease you used in the three different areas? Wheel bearing hub, CV Axle, and brand pad contact points?
Side note, incredible video, I will be using this to change my wheel bearings later.
What are you lubricating the axle with?
Very helpful and understanding and what would you normal price for this type of service?
My son was just quoted $650 for this work. This is why I'm watching DIY videos.
Hey I have a 2014 Lincoln MKZ and my wheel shakes I change everything except the wheel burns and it still shake could that be the problem and was your shaking that’s why you change the bearings
If the shaking is while braking, your wheel rotors need to be “turned” or machined by an O’Reillys or simply replaced. I’d just replace them.
Do you need to have a tire alignment done after replacing the bearings?
Yes
Shouldn't have to do one! Mark the struts before loosening the bolts off.
What happens if you don’t use a screw driver to take the bolt off
What time are you talking about
😮
You should hawe used the torque on the axle nut😏
Did the wheel hub really come out that easy???
Yes if its stuck you can hammer it out
Right but I live up north east with snowy winters mines never com off that easy
What impact Gun did you use
Milwaukee 1/2 impact 1400ft lbs
The second I saw you let the caliper dangle by the brake line you lost all your mechanical credibility i wouldn't let ya do my brakes for sure. Buy you some caliper Hangers! They're cheap cheap and will save you a headache of replacing that brake hose when you bust one where they're crimped to the caliper they WILL leak from hanging by it's own weight luckily that car isn't too old.
Still good video though and good camera work all in all. Also that green washer is part of the cv axle assembly and is pretty important, it protects the mating surfaces of the axle/bearing preventing burring/friction.
This rookie used a regular socket on an impact gun 🤣 use an impact socket rookie
Don't think he claimed to be a pro, instead of laughing at the guy and calling him a rookie why not educate him by explaining. People that come on here to point out small mistakes after clearly looking online for help and watched the video to do the same repairs technically puts us all in the rookie category no?
Well I disagree with that we are all definitely not rookies but I agree with the rest of your statements first listen if you haven't had one of those sockets shatter and hit you can you even call yourself a mechanic? Lol, he had some good stuff helpful and good camera work to see things, then he went ahead and commented all the torque specs for everything he showed in the video. I'd take one of him over ten other guys I'd normally get on a job, so yeah, good work man thanks for the info. there's definitely some tips and tricks you can learn along the way and get better at. keep posting and asking and weeding through the bs to get to the real advice