I did my front brakes and pads watching your video have never done mechanical work before in my life and I'm as handy as most women. My brake and rotor job was successful due to this video and saved me a lot of money
I have a 2016, Ford Fusion SE 2.5 engine, I'll be placing both front and rear breaks and rotors, your suppose to clean each rotor with break cleaner prior to installation.
@@sylviawise3362 Impact wrench (1/2 inch drive) with a 19mm socket made for thin wall deep wells. You could also just get the socket and a 1/2" breaker bar and that will work too without having to invest into a full blown impact. I had a problem that I could not get a 4 way tire iron inside the wall of the lug nut housing. It kept spinning on me, and it was because it never got onto the lug nut. The walls are oddly narrow. Another thing it could be, and this is only likely if someone replaced your lug nuts, some lugs have these chrome caps on them. If that is the case, sometimes the cap comes loose, and just spins in place. The cap can be removed in this case. If that is the case, I suggest replacing with solid lug nuts.
@@sylviawise3362 I had the same problem doing my rears a while back ago. I went to discount tire and got new lugnuts. It IS a 19mm but they use a 19 ½ mm because the casing on the lugnuts swell up. The new ones I got, don't have any casing around them. I think I paid less than 30 dollars for all 20 lugnuts
A heads up, for Recommends blue thread lock on the caliper mounting bracket bracket bolts. I didn’t on Mt 07 Volvo XC 90 and the leading edge caliper mounting bolt backed out and almost killed me when it backed out when applying the brakes in the highway, it locked up the right side wheel. It’s not always suggested, but especially if you don’t have a torque wrench to hit the 55ft lbs torque, it’s worth the $5 dollar additional cost. And he’s totally correct, you need that lube!
What do you mean by at first? As in, you're driving around and even after the first few full applications they are still soft? If so, you might have air in them, and will need to bleed them. If its just the first couple full applications, then it normalized, that might just be the caliper needing to correctly seat its piston, so it takes a couple presses to get it.
Open up the brake fluid reservoir before squeezing the caliper. Use a turkey baster to lower the fluid level so the fluid doesn’t get all over the engine. After the installation, pump the brakes to squeeze the air out. Then use the fluid from the baster to bring the level back up before you put the cap back on the reservior
@@JaboTheMechanic Hmmmm I watched in slow motion and never saw you touch the cv nut to remove the rotor. Good video despite the other issues like using jack stands, removing the master cylinder cap, and putting the synthetic grease in "all" the necessary places.
No one missed anything. He had to edit the video. He didn't need to loosen the cv nut for absolutely nothing. He showed basics but still not a proper job because he really doesn't know himself. The face of the axle behind the rotor needed a very light application of antiseize. Silicone brake lube on contact points. He really shouldn't just let the caliper hang there either. Also no mention of torque specs. The 18 mm caliper bracket bolts, Ford recommends a bit of blue Loctite for those. Just really showing very basic removal. Nor very thorough and complete. The antiseize and lube is for the next time and smooth operation. They get rusty the older they get. It's better than nothing for most but not all people. If you call yourself a mechanic. You would also add the important info too.
Couple things. The main one being, did you not put down jack stands? The other being, I thought I read somewhere that the caliper pins on a 2014 Fusion are T45 torx, or at least the rear are. Is that the case that the front and rear are not the same? Would seem odd.
@@JaboTheMechanic I just got that same impact and learned my lesson on it's power on the first try. I was putting lugs back on, and doing one last check, hit the last lug cock eyed and chewed the end of the nut off. Hopefully I can get it back off. Heading out to do it now...
You forgot to take off the master cylinder cap to relieve the pressure also put synthetic grease on your brake caliper piston also put synthetic grease behind brake pad on your caliber piston side also you need a little bit on the ears not on the end of your brake pad on the ears of the brake caliper outer side
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I did my front brakes and pads watching your video have never done mechanical work before in my life and I'm as handy as most women. My brake and rotor job was successful due to this video and saved me a lot of money
I would use a C Clamp to compress the calipers.
I have a 2016, Ford Fusion SE 2.5 engine, I'll be placing both front and rear breaks and rotors, your suppose to clean each rotor with break cleaner prior to installation.
I have the same car. What power tool are you using to take the lugs off? Mine keep spinning.
@@sylviawise3362 Impact wrench (1/2 inch drive) with a 19mm socket made for thin wall deep wells. You could also just get the socket and a 1/2" breaker bar and that will work too without having to invest into a full blown impact. I had a problem that I could not get a 4 way tire iron inside the wall of the lug nut housing. It kept spinning on me, and it was because it never got onto the lug nut. The walls are oddly narrow.
Another thing it could be, and this is only likely if someone replaced your lug nuts, some lugs have these chrome caps on them. If that is the case, sometimes the cap comes loose, and just spins in place. The cap can be removed in this case. If that is the case, I suggest replacing with solid lug nuts.
Not if they’re bosh icon rotors you won’t want to
@@sylviawise3362 I had the same problem doing my rears a while back ago. I went to discount tire and got new lugnuts. It IS a 19mm but they use a 19 ½ mm because the casing on the lugnuts swell up. The new ones I got, don't have any casing around them. I think I paid less than 30 dollars for all 20 lugnuts
A heads up, for Recommends blue thread lock on the caliper mounting bracket bracket bolts. I didn’t on Mt 07 Volvo XC 90 and the leading edge caliper mounting bolt backed out and almost killed me when it backed out when applying the brakes in the highway, it locked up the right side wheel.
It’s not always suggested, but especially if you don’t have a torque wrench to hit the 55ft lbs torque, it’s worth the $5 dollar additional cost.
And he’s totally correct, you need that lube!
Thank you! Ordered new pads/brakes!
Great job my dude, thnkx for the help🙏
Great tutorial, thaks for sharing
Thanks for the video! It's a great help!
Just changed mine today! Thanx for the video bro!
Ps is it normal for ur breaks to be a lil soft at first? I'm assuming they get harder with use...
What do you mean by at first? As in, you're driving around and even after the first few full applications they are still soft? If so, you might have air in them, and will need to bleed them. If its just the first couple full applications, then it normalized, that might just be the caliper needing to correctly seat its piston, so it takes a couple presses to get it.
No he ain’t bleed the brakes line
Open up the brake fluid reservoir before squeezing the caliper. Use a turkey baster to lower the fluid level so the fluid doesn’t get all over the engine. After the installation, pump the brakes to squeeze the air out. Then use the fluid from the baster to bring the level back up before you put the cap back on the reservior
Do you remember what torque the caliper and the caliper brackets need to be set at?
20-25 ft-lbs
My question is why did you tighten the cv nut? Did I miss the step where you loosened it?
Yes you missed that step
@@JaboTheMechanic Hmmmm I watched in slow motion and never saw you touch the cv nut to remove the rotor. Good video despite the other issues like using jack stands, removing the master cylinder cap, and putting the synthetic grease in "all" the necessary places.
Is there even a reason to loosen the CV nut?
I did my rotors and pads. I did not have to touch the cv nut. It was pretty easy actually. I had my buddy do it and watched everything he did.
No one missed anything. He had to edit the video. He didn't need to loosen the cv nut for absolutely nothing. He showed basics but still not a proper job because he really doesn't know himself. The face of the axle behind the rotor needed a very light application of antiseize. Silicone brake lube on contact points. He really shouldn't just let the caliper hang there either. Also no mention of torque specs. The 18 mm caliper bracket bolts, Ford recommends a bit of blue Loctite for those. Just really showing very basic removal. Nor very thorough and complete. The antiseize and lube is for the next time and smooth operation. They get rusty the older they get. It's better than nothing for most but not all people. If you call yourself a mechanic. You would also add the important info too.
So did you have to loosen the cv axle nut to take off the rotor??
That wouldn't be necesary for changing the rotor.
What lubricant are you using?
Way helpful if included tightening specs
Hi do I have to take off the break fluid cap off
That the long reach daytona? Were you able to get it under there easily once that annoying plastic cover is removed?
Yes
Couple things. The main one being, did you not put down jack stands? The other being, I thought I read somewhere that the caliper pins on a 2014 Fusion are T45 torx, or at least the rear are. Is that the case that the front and rear are not the same? Would seem odd.
Front and rear are not the same
I just did my 2014, pins are t45 7mm rear and 9mm front.
You guys have to be direct on which ones your starting with
Which tires
also how is your experience with milwakee power tools... been eyeballing a few myself haha.
Dude do it! So worth the investment. The 1/2 broke 8 sockets already. Too much power. By far the best investment
@@JaboTheMechanic I just got that same impact and learned my lesson on it's power on the first try. I was putting lugs back on, and doing one last check, hit the last lug cock eyed and chewed the end of the nut off. Hopefully I can get it back off. Heading out to do it now...
Is this the same for 2013 fusions?
Should be the same to 13 - 16 not sure if above but they say 13-16 is all the same.
Hey man! how much were those wrenches bro???
Which ones
Dude, you can twist a ratchet fast!
You forgot to take off the master cylinder cap to relieve the pressure also put synthetic grease on your brake caliper piston also put synthetic grease behind brake pad on your caliber piston side also you need a little bit on the ears not on the end of your brake pad on the ears of the brake caliper outer side
Yikes. Missed a few important steps here boss. Plus you put brake grease on your pads from not changing your gloves between steps. Big no-no.