You can actually attach a support platform on the bottom of the extension rod on the entry side of the cut/saw to prevent the cut piece from dipping down as the work piece enters the cut.
That was my first thought. Would need to make it longish to interface to as much of the 80/20 extrusion as possible to minimize twisting action. If that makes any sense. But very do-able and advantageous in my opinion. Worth experimenting with!
This is brilliant! So much simpler and lighter than some of the plywood/mdf box options that have been posted. And you can mount featherboards on the outfeed end of the track.
Thanks for all the great suggestions over the years! The TH-cam brain trust is strong :). I started using the suggestion of the support platform and it works really well to extend support for the pieces going in. Can't do without it now.
Picked up the dwe7491rs recently. I been clamping a level to the fence but this idea is much better. Picked up the aluminum today, hoping I can safely drill holes through the fence 😊
This is a nice alternate solution to those boxed-in stock fence methods. Two common t-bolts. Brilliant. Another benefit is that (with the extrusion profile that you’ve chosen) one could attach a support piece to the bottom t track on that extrusion- effectively extending the infeed of the table in addition to the lateral fence. A 3/8” spacer washer on the t-bolt underneath could also accommodate the use of a miter fence.
very nice indeed! I'm going to implement this hack on my DeWalt table saw. I'll consider using 4 bolts, because I will be swapping the 60 mm fence with 150 mm tall fence (to be able to clamp the pieces vertically for tenon cuts for example). with 4 bolts I'll use 2 tracks to prevent the taller fences from tipping. that tracks in the fence allow adding any jig you can think of: stop block to name one. thanks!
Like others have already said - This is brilliant and I’m sure I’m not alone when I say ‘Thank you’ for sharing your solution and method with the rest of us who have spent a ridiculous amount of time searching and hoping to find a simple and cost effective solution for making cuts in the table saw safer and more enjoyable to use all together. Keep up the good work sir ! Cheers! Liked, Subcribed, etc etc Done! :) 👍✌️
I just finished constructing this terrific mod for my Dewalt saw. I did a couple of changes to the design to meet my needs which added a bit of time to the job. I used 1x 3 80/20 both for the main piece (4 ft) and the backing piece (a cut down 2ft piece). I used the aluminum rather than wood for the back piece to stiffen the fence a bit more. I wanted it to fit over the 4 screw heads in the back to take advantage of the internal plastic fence frame. This involved grinding the rear of the aluminum to fit over the screws. Worth the trouble. As I don't have a drill press, it was not so easy to line up the holes through both aluminum pieces as well as the fence. I used a 90 degree drilling block for that and eventually got what I wanted. I used Star Knobs to tighten the t bolt . They work great.....spin them with your finger. But space is tight on the backside with the aux fence locked in, so I had to Dremel the length of the t bolts so that everything fit. But it all works great and I thank Canadian Woodworker for this video
If you don't mind me asking, what was the number of the profile of 80/20 you used? It would be four digit, like '3075' or something similar. I've got the catalogue at home but I'm having trouble seeing a 1x3 with a flat face
@@acanadianwoodworker Sure, but I'll have to "code" where I got it from. I had posted last week about where I got some of the ingredients and it disappeared. Not sure why, but maybe you can't put vendors names on these posts. In any case....it's 1030, Series10 (same place where you got yours, but in 3 inch height). The back piece was the same series, but 2 ft long and I had to do a bunch of trimming, as mentioned. I got the Star Knobs from the same place for about 8 and change for 5. For the t bolts, I went to a woodworking site (R) and got 3 1/2 inch (3 is very hard to find, but that's what Dremels are for). All that stuff added about 7 lbs of weight to the fence, which I think translates to lots of stability.. I just showed it to my neighbor who owns a construction company and he was VERY impressed with it. Said you should patent it.
Great suggestion. Thank you. I suggest adding an attachment (an L shape) to the backside of the extrusion that will provide vertical support to the work piece in advance of the table.
This will definitely help with straighter cuts. I've been over taxing my jobsite saw (only table saw) with building cabinets. So my main issue with the saw is that it barely cuts 24" as it is now and cabinets are typically 35" or more. What I'm saying is that my saw is already limited with cutting width, and I don't want to limit it any more. Lol.
Another upgrade you can do to the fence it attach a piece of wood to the bottom of the fence to support the material you are cutting. Great idea. I will surely add this to my table saw.
Do you know of a good source for 2080 in Canada? Amazon has one supplier, but only for 1m stock, not 48". Amazon US has it, but their shipping costs are extravagant.
This idea is awsome. I'm goingg to follow you not only because of this tip but also because you have a quality video, a clean shop and because i want to see more of you! See you in your next video man!
I just did this same thing to my Metabo C10RJS table saw, as well as to my Delta Cruzer miter saw. It makes a world of difference, not only with ease of use but with accuracy as well.
@@acanadianwoodworker My miter saw's fences, each, already had 2 holes spaced about 6 inches or so apart. They were just a bit too low, so I had to bore them out a little bit with the Dremel, and it works perfectly.
I tell u one thing I have learned as a Gen X in this new modern world and that’s how long I can hold my poo. Cuz if I can’t find my phone then I will run around frantically while prairie doggin! Just can’t go without it
I just did this and it is so much better than the short OEM fence. Note if you are doing this for the DW745 you will need to apply a new measuring tape or remove, drill and tap new holes for the sight window. I did the latter and it worked great. Just make sure your new tap holes are on the same level as the originals so the window sits flush.
It’s funny, as a new woodworker and very experienced sim racer, my very first thought when I saw the Bow XT fences was “ya, I can do that with extrusion for like $20” haha!
Just did this a few weeks ago with 40x80 mm. Rock solid. Took all featherboards I needed for 45 bevel cuts for about 1000 pieces. the factory coupling is however a joke. I hope there's a billet aftermarket replacement in the works
This is one one best idea to improve my DW7492 - fence problem as always. I used a bit more massive profile 30x60 mm (20mm looks a bit too light to me). Thank you - cost me less than half of new fence. I measured also using this profile (100 cm long) my table and this is disaster. Table is flying up and down from left to right. From front to top is better but also not perfect. Shame for DW. They should check casting form.
Well, I think your obviously on to something there. Bigger is better... at least “That what she said.”😏 I think I’ll just stick with my old, shorter, toed-out fence. It’s got me quite a few good cuts thru out the years🥱
Very good. I have just a new saw not as good as yours I added a metre long aluminium clamp to my really short fence your solution is better but the idea is the same.
I used th 8020, 3034-Lite, 15 Series 3" x 0.75" Aluminum T-Slot Extrusion x 48" available from same store at OP link. 3” tall and no slots on th blade side - which he mentions would be better. Agreed.
I have been looking for this solution as I don't have a planer (no room) and lost the tip of my left index finger to a table saw, my carelessness. I am all about safety now. Just clicked an ordered but i got the 60" version. I hope you get some feed back from this. Thank you very much.
I've just made a reversible blockwood fence that works like a charm. This lets me have the long arm either before or after the saws top. I allow an extra 21mm on the rulers and it's 100% accurate when cutting longer sheets. I like the fence shown in your video but the original aluminium fence is in my opinion way to flimsy to bolt through and secure without introducing distortion.
I think this is probably what people want if they have the 7491RS: 8020 Inc, 3075, 15 Series, 3" x 0.75" Smooth T-Slot x 48". I ordered one to try out this great idea.
Yes! This checks all the boxes for the perfect fence add-on - thin enough (0.75) to not take away rip capacity, and high enough (3") for larger taller workpieces. The only bummer thing is that the 'flat' side of the 80/20 is often not flat. It can be slightly curved outwards from the aluminum extruding and cooling process. (Watch my short video about the 80/20 router fence I made where I encountered a curved 'flat' side). Which isn't necessarily a deal breaker, but it's nice to have a perfectly square and flat fence for many cutting operations.
@@acanadianwoodworker I got it and you were correct about it being ever so slightly convex. But from what I can tell (using my machined square) its at most 1/64th of an inch off from perfect (not sure what that is in metric!). As you said, it will probably not make any difference using wood...1/64th is a sanding error (lol).
@A Canadian Woodworker and @Robert Anthony I am now curious if either of you actually made it with this model t slot with smooth surface and how well is it working? Especially if you made both what is the comparison? Also great video and thanks. Subscribed!
Great idea, thank you! I'm definitely going to use this for my Bosch table saw, although I'm going to drill some vertical holes in the aluminum rail and use fence clamps instead of drilling through the table saw fence. It won't slide, but for my use it's better stationary. (PS this video is best viewed at 1.75x speed ;)
Great idea Sometimes I need a longer fence on my the table saw in my shop never thought of this. There is a company that makes a fence system that uses these for a fence
At first I thought your custom shroud in front of the saw was powder coated sheet metal and my eyebrows were mega raised. It looks great and would be so much easier to fabricate as ply or MDF. I have this saw and want to do something like this too. Instead of your drawer underneath, I'd want to make that a dust receptacle with vacuum suction. Emptying it would be as easy as opening and dumping the drawer.
Excellent solution, I am looking to add it to my TS. I was wondering if you were to attach a 6 inch wide x 8 inch long 1/2 inch birch plywood with T- nuts under the infeed end, could it provide an arm to support the longer panels safely? And instead of the 1020 series, using a 1030 extrusion would allow to add anti kickback rollers to the fence?
Good idea as the DW tube fences are contractor and not cabinet grade in terms of flatness/accuracy - then again, so is the saw for that matter although it's a darn good one. Check the runout across your 8020E though as they are not all made equal.
The Dewalt fence is hollow on the inside and pretty thin aluminum - I think I took the end cap off and put a piece of wood in there to support it during drilling so it wouldn't collapse/distort or anything weird. Just use a sharp twist drill bit, and obviously a drill press or some other way of maintaining a straight line through the two walls of the fence. Hope that helps!
I see what you’re saying with this longer piece, but the problem I have here is that well it may adjust the fence according to the clamps that hold it to the a rack and pinion, and that longer piece of metal the metal is secured to the shorter base, which is still off set, and to adjust that you have to take the entire fense a part. However, I agree that the longer piece gives an extension that can be useful, but only need a lot of that extension on the fence at the very beginning of the table. And what’s the use of having the extension out over the table if you don’t have support for your wood? Do you need almost a foot of support in front of the saw just to keep the peace that you’re cutting from kicking up if you’re going to be that extend it out to use the fence. The only way I could see the suspense. Being useful is to support the backend on longer boards.
Thats an idea....i was actually thinking of the plastic screw knobs that would give you a nice fat plastic handle about the size of a golf ball to hold onto and turn it.
@@GaryBowen73 Gary......they are called Star Knobs. I did a reply this morning about this, but the post disappeared. I ordered a set of them earlier this weekend. Maybe because I mentioned where I got them. In any case, they come in packs of 5 for the 1/4-20 hardware
How do keep your space so clean? It’s amazing! I can’t leave the lid off my coffee mug for more then a minute or I run the risk of thin layer of dust. What’s the secret?
I've been thinking of making a long fence with some mdf. In the meantime, I have attached a four foot level to the factory fence to get that long straight edge. I really like your idea. I also have a jobsite saw, the Home Depot version. I have a basement shop so there's no way to get a bigger saw in there.
Great idea! Yes MDF is very straight and flat, should make a great fence. My shop is in a basement as well. It would be almost impossible to get a massive cabinet saw into it (aside from bolt by bolt)
A Canadian Woodworker I'm guessing you would buy one of those cheap digital calipers, dismantle it and attach it to the near corner of the fence with it just touching the dewalts measure marking strip on the front, then zero it when the fencd is touching the blade and you're done I think 🤔
Actually aluminum has no memory. So if it’s bent it won’t go back into its original shape as steel would. But 8020 can take a lot of pressure. Also if you add more t slot bolts to the original fence and that should take care of the spacing. When using only two mounting points it can creat a bow in the 8020
It was just based on the measurement where the groove was to attach the t-bolts. I remember it was 1.5 inches or something like that. Then the t-bolts pass through and go perfectly into the t-track.
I would love more information on your bench and how you integrated the table saw in it. I am especially interested in how you maximize the dust collection with it, I have the same saw and the dust collection is garbage
Hi Brandon, good timing - I was just about to start making a video where I show the integration of the Dewalt saw into the table, and how the dust collection (and containment) works. Stay tuned, should have it done in a few days.
Did you consider replacing the original Dewalt alu fence with an extrusion, removing the stock, thin walled malleable rectangular pipe with a similarly tall unit.
I watched you video yesterday and I'm going to put one of these on my new Dewalt table saw. I have a few questions as I am considering doing a few modifications of your method to suit my needs. First of all, I'm thinking of using a 4 ft piece of 1x3 80/20. The price is not that much more for a higher fence. Worthwhile? Secondly, I'm thinking that rather than using MDF or wood as the backing piece, maybe I can find a short piece of 80/20 for the back or the fence (probably the length of the fence. Worth doing? Do you have a link for the type of hardware (T bolts) that will fit this? Thanks Great video, by the way!
Hi Roger, yes I'm sure a 1x3 80/20 extrusion would work great, actually I wish I had got that in the first place. Really the back MDF piece just acts a big washer to not compress the thin aluminium Dewalt stock fence, anything that spreads out the pressure of the bolts would work I'm sure. Here's the bolts I used, www.leevalley.com/en-ca/shop/hardware/jig-and-fixture-parts/65638-1-4-20-t-bolts-and-t-slot-nuts. I think the 3" length.
@@acanadianwoodworker Did you mount the 80/20 so that there is no gap at the bottom with the table or leave a tiny gap like what the original fence has?
@@rogerfluhr5652 I think tiny gap, so it doesn't scrape along the bottom. There's room for up/down play with the t-bolts, if you want to adjust either way.
@@acanadianwoodworker I thank you for helping out here. I've got all the ingredients on order. Looking forward to assembly of this cool mod. I did order the piece of 80/20 (3 inch) for the back side. Can't hurt (it was only 15 bucks). If it doesn't work out, I can always swap out with a piece of wood or MDF. The rear piece will come at 24 inches which I'll cut down. I may groove out the back a bit to cover the 2 screws on each side of the rear of the fence. Give it just a bit more stiffness (I think).
Do you think a flip up platform on the front would help? Maybe an extra foot in front of the saw as a feed to add stability underneath would work? That's always been my sore point with the jobsite saws. Not enough space in front of the blade. Even for crosscut sleds it's hard to have a big enough one to be usable while still being stable. I like your table but I think I would want to extend it so that there is more infeed as well as the longer arm such as what you have. Great idea! thanks for sharing it. What part o-canada are you in? I'm in Kingston. Glad to see another Canadian on here. I'll take a look around and see what you build.
Hi Terence, I'm in the east part of Toronto, pretty close :). Yes that's a a great idea, some sort of built-in support for the infeed. Right now I just use a roller stand for every workpiece over 12 inches long. The floor in front of the saw table is irregular so I have to level it every time. It'd be nice to have that extra built in support and skip all that!
Possibly adding an in-feed extension base to the 80/20 might also help with larger sheets. You can bolt it on to the bottom of the rail with a rest to sit on the crossfeed for support.
I opted for 1030 profile which would give me a higher track for mounting featherboards. How high up did you drill the holes in the fence and what size drill bit did you use.
great video and and great idea. Is it easy to drill the holes in the original fence without damaging the fence in any way. How did you exactly drill the holes?
Thanks! Yes it's easy to drill through the stock DW fence, it's made of a pretty thin/hollow aluminum. I just marked the holes and brought it over to a drill press, normal 1/4 inch drill bit.
Thanks for the excellent tip! I'm going to add this to my table saw. You've had this feature for several years now, and I'm wondering if you have any new suggestions? For instance would you go with a taller extrusion such as a 3 inch if you did it over again? I'm on the fence... no pun intended. :)
Good question! I wouldn't go taller - but I would go for a flat face on the blade side, that would make things like registering bevels against the fence a lot easier.
@@heyimamaker nice! *sings 'Oh Canada'. Yes I don't think amazon.ca does 80/20. But - the actual Canadian distributor is in Mississauga (if you're somewhat near there) - called CPI Automation. They have tonnes of extrusions in stock. There are a lot of other depots like Fastenal that can order the extrusions as well, but don't necessarily stock or have expertise in them.
Did you find that the dewalt fence was not as straight as the extrusion? I adjusted my rip fence with a dial indicator and found a .002-.003 wow in the centre of the fence but aligned at the ends. I am also considering 1.5 x 3.0 80/20 as it is probably more solid than the 1x2 thus avoiding the slight deflection you mentioned.
No I think I got lucky, the original fence was very straight on my unit. Great idea going with a thicker/bigger extrusion, should be much straighter. And then if you pin it to the fence firmly but lightly, there shouldn't be any distortion added.
If you drilled a third hole aligned with the 1/2 inch t track on the stock fence in between the top two holes, would that not solve the issue of over tightening the bolts? Is the 1/64 deflection because the top two bolts overtightened pull the extrusion away from the fence at the bottom?
I just measured the extrusion - the tracks in the extrusion (80/20). The tracks are at 1/2 inch and 1.5 inch. So I drilled at 1.5 inch to capture the top with a t-bolt.
Thank you for doing the video. Is one of the "gotchas" the offset than throws your cut indicator on the rack and pinion tape off? Is there enough adjustment in the plastic indicator to adjust for the 80-20 offset? Thanks again for posting!
Yes it actually works really well - the 80/20 extrusion offsets it by an inch, and the plastic cut indicator on the saw is re-adjustable back to zero within that.
I bought the same 80/20 extrusion an assembled it to my fence almost exactly as you did with the 1/2" mdf backing on the fence but I used a two pack of toilet bolts with 1/2" width flanges from Lowes. The fence glides perfectly and I also used the finger tight method without a socket wrench and that works well. The surprise came when I went to adjust the sight gauge on the tape. I have to confess here that I have the model 7491RS saw and there must be a difference in the fence reference because the sight guage was not adjustable within the limits of the hold down screws to accommodate the 1 inch 80/20 addition. So, I took them out and used double sided tape to fix the sight Guage to the rack & pinion channel and it works perfect. If I could send a picture I would. Thanks again for the excellent video and fix.
Great video and I will be setting up my new fence shortly. Thank you! Also love the outfeed table. Any chance you will be doing a walk through of that piece of art?
Hello and thank you from Vancouver Island. This is a great idea! I plan to incorporate it into the table I am about to build. I am also very impressed with your table saw - extension table setup. Mind if I ask where in Canada are you located?
Hi Bevan, thanks for the comments and looking forward to your build! I'm in Toronto (this workshop is in the basement of a house in the east end). I wish I lived on Vancouver Island - that's paradise! The grandeur of nature and landscape there is unparalelled in Canada. Cheers
Haha thanks! I'm in the east end of Toronto. I wished I lived in Cambridge, all the good hardwood lumber yards are there! Close enough for a virtual beer :)
@@acanadianwoodworker next time you're out this way, first Guinness is on me. BTW, trying to find non-Amazon source for extrusions is proving quite difficult.
@@DuncanRenovates Yeah it took me a while to find them locally. CPI Automation in Etobicoke has them in stock all the time, can custom lengths for you, etc. cpiautomation.com
Hi Ron, no, I just made it up as I went along. Pretty simple, you just have to build four 'walls' out of 1/4 inch MDF, and have them attach to each other. And then a trap door on the front so you can make height adjustments, etc.
7:48 for starters, the bigger saws have flat surfaces, and straight fences. Not sure what year your Saw is, but since 2018, Dewalt has snowballed in terms of quality. (Theyre now little more than a slightly better "Craftsman". ) Now, with all current jobsite saws, whether $99, or $2800, im yet to see a decent flat surface, or a good fence on any of them. So, while a longer fence might help, the truth is, for precision woodwork, you will need to joint and plane your boards/stock. This saw just isnt built well, so it wont do what you might see other saws do.
Hello, I have the same mod on my table saw fence for my DWE7480 and I love it as well. The only differences are that I have a 36 inch extrusion and I filled the stock fence with wood instead of attaching it to the back. I didn't want to affect the straighteness of the fence by overtightening the bolts. I have to rebuild the table that I built for my saw for better dust collection. Does your saw rest on its base or do you have it hanging from its top? From what I can see, your top is really flush and I want to achieve the same result when I make the new table. Thanks for sharing!
That's a great idea filling the stock fence with wood to stiffen it - good one! Yes my saw is resting on its base, bolted in with 4x 1/4-20 bolts to a melamine support underneath. Took a while to level / make the support area so the table saw sits a millimetre or so above the general outfeed table. I tried everything to contain the dust, as the saw sprays dust pretty much everywhere. The only thing that has worked well in the end is building an enclosure around the entire saw (you see a bit of it - the yellow board over the front). And then all the dust collects underneath and I periodically vacuum it out.
You do have to spend some time setting the saw up... blade, fence, etc. But once done, the saw is great. Fairly compact which is Nice th-cam.com/users/postUgkxXh-4_3-ZT1fFWP91ZV7iVqzElr0lEb-a I did get an Incra Miter Gauge which takes some setup as well. The stock miter gauge can be adjusted in the miter slot with a little painter's tape... this tightens up the side to side play a lot.
@@acanadianwoodworker yeah I had a look around. Cannot purchase this in UK. Also would like to point out that 2080 t/v slot rails are cheaper in most places if you cannot get ahold of this 1020 profile.
Great idea! Very simple yet effective. By the way, is your original DeWalt fence truly square to your table top? If you take your straight edge and lay it on the table top at different locations with varying angles with reference to table top, you may be surprised to see that the table top is not that flat. So jobsite saws accuracy is good enough for construction industry and may not be accurate for fine woodworking. So what is the point of these improvements from fine woodworking point of view? That being said, your shop and its layout is fabulous. You may want to consider a SawStop JSS... just saying. Thank you for sharing. Liked & subscribed.
Yes you're right the Dewalt job site saw's tables aren't flat. I had to exchange my first one and then got lucky finding one with only 0.3 millimetre off. Which I think is pretty good for cast aluminum which can warp a lot in the cooling process. It's not anywhere near the performance of a professional cabinet saw, but it is always an advantage to be able to cut as straight as possible, even for simple or multiple rip cuts where you're always referencing off the last cut made.
This was a great idea. Do you still use this saw / fence? I have a DeWalt DWE 7485 and I am looking at upgrading the fence. Anyways, you have a new sub ;-) If you have the inclination, stop by my tiny channel and say hi! Cheers.
Neat and effective idea. And it has the bonus of providing a better(?) way of mounting your Table Saw Stock Guides, in a similar way to my copy of your system lumberjocks.com/projects/402393 - although my fence had TWO T slots already.
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You can actually attach a support platform on the bottom of the extension rod on the entry side of the cut/saw to prevent the cut piece from dipping down as the work piece enters the cut.
That was my first thought. Would need to make it longish to interface to as much of the 80/20 extrusion as possible to minimize twisting action. If that makes any sense. But very do-able and advantageous in my opinion. Worth experimenting with!
Extension rod?
This is brilliant! So much simpler and lighter than some of the plywood/mdf box options that have been posted. And you can mount featherboards on the outfeed end of the track.
Thanks for all the great suggestions over the years! The TH-cam brain trust is strong :). I started using the suggestion of the support platform and it works really well to extend support for the pieces going in. Can't do without it now.
Picked up the dwe7491rs recently. I been clamping a level to the fence but this idea is much better. Picked up the aluminum today, hoping I can safely drill holes through the fence 😊
This is a nice alternate solution to those boxed-in stock fence methods. Two common t-bolts. Brilliant. Another benefit is that (with the extrusion profile that you’ve chosen) one could attach a support piece to the bottom t track on that extrusion- effectively extending the infeed of the table in addition to the lateral fence. A 3/8” spacer washer on the t-bolt underneath could also accommodate the use of a miter fence.
Great idea! I have a very small shop and the ability to remove the extension is perfect! Thanks for the additional tips when working with the fence,
very nice indeed! I'm going to implement this hack on my DeWalt table saw.
I'll consider using 4 bolts, because I will be swapping the 60 mm fence with 150 mm tall fence (to be able to clamp the pieces vertically for tenon cuts for example).
with 4 bolts I'll use 2 tracks to prevent the taller fences from tipping.
that tracks in the fence allow adding any jig you can think of: stop block to name one.
thanks!
I don't have a Dewalt saw, but mine does have a similar fence. I plan to use this idea. Thanks for posting it.
Like others have already said - This is brilliant and I’m sure I’m not alone when I say ‘Thank you’ for sharing your solution and method with the rest of us who have spent a ridiculous amount of time searching and hoping to find a simple and cost effective solution for making cuts in the table saw safer and more enjoyable to use all together.
Keep up the good work sir !
Cheers!
Liked, Subcribed, etc etc Done! :)
👍✌️
Made one myself with MK-8-3090 T-slot instead of 8020 because of local (Australia) sourcing issues. Thanks for the video.
Hi, where in Australia did you buy MK-8-3090 T slot? I'm in NSW. and think this has great advantages.
@@kennywall1858 GAP Engineering is out of SE Qld so I picked up in person but they do business via mail/freight as well. www.tslot.com.au/
Much better than the length of steel shelf bracket support that I have been using!
I like your way of comfortable speaking
Thank you. What a nice comment!
I love your workshop man! Super clean.
I just finished constructing this terrific mod for my Dewalt saw. I did a couple of changes to the design to meet my needs which added a bit of time to the job. I used 1x 3 80/20 both for the main piece (4 ft) and the backing piece (a cut down 2ft piece). I used the aluminum rather than wood for the back piece to stiffen the fence a bit more. I wanted it to fit over the 4 screw heads in the back to take advantage of the internal plastic fence frame. This involved grinding the rear of the aluminum to fit over the screws. Worth the trouble. As I don't have a drill press, it was not so easy to line up the holes through both aluminum pieces as well as the fence. I used a 90 degree drilling block for that and eventually got what I wanted. I used Star Knobs to tighten the t bolt . They work great.....spin them with your finger. But space is tight on the backside with the aux fence locked in, so I had to Dremel the length of the t bolts so that everything fit. But it all works great and I thank Canadian Woodworker for this video
Sounds amazing! It sounds like you really took the time to build the perfect version of the mod, congratulations!
If you don't mind me asking, what was the number of the profile of 80/20 you used? It would be four digit, like '3075' or something similar. I've got the catalogue at home but I'm having trouble seeing a 1x3 with a flat face
@@acanadianwoodworker Sure, but I'll have to "code" where I got it from. I had posted last week about where I got some of the ingredients and it disappeared. Not sure why, but maybe you can't put vendors names on these posts. In any case....it's 1030, Series10 (same place where you got yours, but in 3 inch height). The back piece was the same series, but 2 ft long and I had to do a bunch of trimming, as mentioned. I got the Star Knobs from the same place for about 8 and change for 5. For the t bolts, I went to a woodworking site (R) and got 3 1/2 inch (3 is very hard to find, but that's what Dremels are for). All that stuff added about 7 lbs of weight to the fence, which I think translates to lots of stability.. I just showed it to my neighbor who owns a construction company and he was VERY impressed with it. Said you should patent it.
Great suggestion. Thank you. I suggest adding an attachment (an L shape) to the backside of the extrusion that will provide vertical support to the work piece in advance of the table.
Great suggestion, thanks!
Curious, what would the L do, if it’s floating in the air- if it’s *before* the table
This will definitely help with straighter cuts. I've been over taxing my jobsite saw (only table saw) with building cabinets. So my main issue with the saw is that it barely cuts 24" as it is now and cabinets are typically 35" or more. What I'm saying is that my saw is already limited with cutting width, and I don't want to limit it any more. Lol.
Another upgrade you can do to the fence it attach a piece of wood to the bottom of the fence to support the material you are cutting. Great idea. I will surely add this to my table saw.
Great idea, I could have thought of that sooner! I'm always just putting a roller stand in front of the saw
I finally added a piece of plywood attached to the fence - great idea! Works wonders to support longer pieces
Do you know of a good source for 2080 in Canada? Amazon has one supplier, but only for 1m stock, not 48". Amazon US has it, but their shipping costs are extravagant.
Extremely useful! Thanks you. I am new to woodworking and just this weekend I had a need for an extended fence.
This idea is awsome. I'm goingg to follow you not only because of this tip but also because you have a quality video, a clean shop and because i want to see more of you! See you in your next video man!
Thanks for the kind words! Means a lot!
@@acanadianwoodworker Youare welcome my friend. I realy mean what i said. I'm looking forward to see more of you, the notification bell is on!
I just did this same thing to my Metabo C10RJS table saw, as well as to my Delta Cruzer miter saw. It makes a world of difference, not only with ease of use but with accuracy as well.
That's clever, I hadn't thought to use it for a miter saw as well!
@@acanadianwoodworker My miter saw's fences, each, already had 2 holes spaced about 6 inches or so apart. They were just a bit too low, so I had to bore them out a little bit with the Dremel, and it works perfectly.
I tell u one thing I have learned as a Gen X in this new modern world and that’s how long I can hold my poo. Cuz if I can’t find my phone then I will run around frantically while prairie doggin! Just can’t go without it
Thanks for sharing - good video. I ordered a piece and T-bolts. I'll add a small infeed table on T-bolts also. Oh yeah - wax the aluminum!
Nice, I made a 2" X 2" 80/20 fence for my old delta tablesaw years ago. Never thought about adding the same for the Dewalt.
I just did this and it is so much better than the short OEM fence. Note if you are doing this for the DW745 you will need to apply a new measuring tape or remove, drill and tap new holes for the sight window. I did the latter and it worked great. Just make sure your new tap holes are on the same level as the originals so the window sits flush.
Isn't 80/20 exactly 1" wide? Just add an inch to your measurement. Or am I missing something.
Fascinating. Thank you. I, like circa 1720 in the comments below, have a Bosch, but I think it'll work.
It’s funny, as a new woodworker and very experienced sim racer, my very first thought when I saw the Bow XT fences was “ya, I can do that with extrusion for like $20” haha!
Great idea. I had yet to see this anywhere else.
Just did this a few weeks ago with 40x80 mm. Rock solid. Took all featherboards I needed for 45 bevel cuts for about 1000 pieces. the factory coupling is however a joke. I hope there's a billet aftermarket replacement in the works
Thank you for the idea. I will try this on my table saw!!
This is one one best idea to improve my DW7492 - fence problem as always. I used a bit more massive profile 30x60 mm (20mm looks a bit too light to me). Thank you - cost me less than half of new fence. I measured also using this profile (100 cm long) my table and this is disaster. Table is flying up and down from left to right. From front to top is better but also not perfect. Shame for DW. They should check casting form.
Great video, great idea.
Also, I could listen to Canadians say words with the "ou" sound all day long: out, about, house
Well, I think your obviously on to something there. Bigger is better... at least “That what she said.”😏 I think I’ll just stick with my old, shorter, toed-out fence. It’s got me quite a few good cuts thru out the years🥱
Very good. I have just a new saw not as good as yours I added a metre long aluminium clamp to my really short fence your solution is better but the idea is the same.
I used th 8020, 3034-Lite, 15 Series 3" x 0.75" Aluminum T-Slot Extrusion x 48" available from same store at OP link. 3” tall and no slots on th blade side - which he mentions would be better. Agreed.
7:00 you could mount that underneath the aluminium so that the board edge sticks out and gives in feed support.
I have been looking for this solution as I don't have a planer (no room) and lost the tip of my left index finger to a table saw, my carelessness. I am all about safety now. Just clicked an ordered but i got the 60" version. I hope you get some feed back from this. Thank you very much.
This is great. But I would also use track bolts to add a (maybe 2-3 inch wide) flat infeed surface to help the piece going in straight.
Thumbed up just for your use of the word dramatically!
I've just made a reversible blockwood fence that works like a charm. This lets me have the long arm either before or after the saws top. I allow an extra 21mm on the rulers and it's 100% accurate when cutting longer sheets. I like the fence shown in your video but the original aluminium fence is in my opinion way to flimsy to bolt through and secure without introducing distortion.
Yes you're right it's a weak fence. Your wood fence sounds like a really good idea, great tip! Thanks!
Nicholas Fox. A picture would be very helpful, and much appreciated.
Nicholas Fox. A picture would be very helpful, and much appreciated.
thank you, have the same problem with a king table saw , fence is to short to rip plywood length wise. i need the 80/20 x72 in length 😊
I think this is probably what people want if they have the 7491RS: 8020 Inc, 3075, 15 Series, 3" x 0.75" Smooth T-Slot x 48". I ordered one to try out this great idea.
Yes! This checks all the boxes for the perfect fence add-on - thin enough (0.75) to not take away rip capacity, and high enough (3") for larger taller workpieces. The only bummer thing is that the 'flat' side of the 80/20 is often not flat. It can be slightly curved outwards from the aluminum extruding and cooling process. (Watch my short video about the 80/20 router fence I made where I encountered a curved 'flat' side). Which isn't necessarily a deal breaker, but it's nice to have a perfectly square and flat fence for many cutting operations.
@@acanadianwoodworker I got it and you were correct about it being ever so slightly convex. But from what I can tell (using my machined square) its at most 1/64th of an inch off from perfect (not sure what that is in metric!). As you said, it will probably not make any difference using wood...1/64th is a sanding error (lol).
@@robertanthony9079 Great news! I think I'm going to switch to a profile like that. You're right, 1/64th isn't a deal breaker at all
@A Canadian Woodworker and @Robert Anthony I am now curious if either of you actually made it with this model t slot with smooth surface and how well is it working? Especially if you made both what is the comparison? Also great video and thanks. Subscribed!
Great idea, thank you! I'm definitely going to use this for my Bosch table saw, although I'm going to drill some vertical holes in the aluminum rail and use fence clamps instead of drilling through the table saw fence. It won't slide, but for my use it's better stationary. (PS this video is best viewed at 1.75x speed ;)
Can you elaborate on this? links to the fence clamps and maybe pictures if you've already done this.
Great idea
Sometimes I need a longer fence on my the table saw in my shop never thought of this.
There is a company that makes a fence system that uses these for a fence
Yes you're right - Super Cool Tools in Austin. It seems like they just re-sell these extrusions.
@@acanadianwoodworker I just checked Amazon and it's not available anymore, sadly.
At first I thought your custom shroud in front of the saw was powder coated sheet metal and my eyebrows were mega raised.
It looks great and would be so much easier to fabricate as ply or MDF.
I have this saw and want to do something like this too. Instead of your drawer underneath, I'd want to make that a dust receptacle with vacuum suction. Emptying it would be as easy as opening and dumping the drawer.
Wow thats a really good idea - a drawer would be so much easier to manage. Very smart!
Excellent solution, I am looking to add it to my TS. I was wondering if you were to attach a 6 inch wide x 8 inch long 1/2 inch birch plywood with T- nuts under the infeed end, could it provide an arm to support the longer panels safely? And instead of the 1020 series, using a 1030 extrusion would allow to add anti kickback rollers to the fence?
Good idea as the DW tube fences are contractor and not cabinet grade in terms of flatness/accuracy - then again, so is the saw for that matter although it's a darn good one. Check the runout across your 8020E though as they are not all made equal.
Hi, thanks for sharing, any tricks for drilling the existing fence?
The Dewalt fence is hollow on the inside and pretty thin aluminum - I think I took the end cap off and put a piece of wood in there to support it during drilling so it wouldn't collapse/distort or anything weird. Just use a sharp twist drill bit, and obviously a drill press or some other way of maintaining a straight line through the two walls of the fence. Hope that helps!
@@acanadianwoodworker great idea to put some wood inside, thanks!
I see what you’re saying with this longer piece, but the problem I have here is that well it may adjust the fence according to the clamps that hold it to the a rack and pinion, and that longer piece of metal the metal is secured to the shorter base, which is still off set, and to adjust that you have to take the entire fense a part.
However, I agree that the longer piece gives an extension that can be useful, but only need a lot of that extension on the fence at the very beginning of the table. And what’s the use of having the extension out over the table if you don’t have support for your wood? Do you need almost a foot of support in front of the saw just to keep the peace that you’re cutting from kicking up if you’re going to be that extend it out to use the fence. The only way I could see the suspense. Being useful is to support the backend on longer boards.
Also, I thinking of using wing nuts to tighten the bolts. Seems like they would be easier to adjust
Yes brilliant, I should grab some wing nuts and start doing that too.
Thats an idea....i was actually thinking of the plastic screw knobs that would give you a nice fat plastic handle about the size of a golf ball to hold onto and turn it.
@@GaryBowen73 Great idea!
@@GaryBowen73 Gary......they are called Star Knobs. I did a reply this morning about this, but the post disappeared. I ordered a set of them earlier this weekend. Maybe because I mentioned where I got them. In any case, they come in packs of 5 for the 1/4-20 hardware
I have gotten the same effect by clamping a 4 foot level to the existing fence on my Kobalt KT1015.
Thanks for the tip Roderick! Cheers
Thank you, golden comment. Screenshot into the archive
How do keep your space so clean? It’s amazing! I can’t leave the lid off my coffee mug for more then a minute or I run the risk of thin layer of dust. What’s the secret?
Very helpful, even though I do not have a Dewalt saw.
tip hat to the master
Good idea I will try it.
brill ,you could probly put a feather board on to this for downwood pressure
Great Idea! I have the same saw and a longer fence sure would help me.
Thanks Craig! Glad to be of help in some small way, cheers!
I've been thinking of making a long fence with some mdf. In the meantime, I have attached a four foot level to the factory fence to get that long straight edge. I really like your idea. I also have a jobsite saw, the Home Depot version. I have a basement shop so there's no way to get a bigger saw in there.
Great idea! Yes MDF is very straight and flat, should make a great fence. My shop is in a basement as well. It would be almost impossible to get a massive cabinet saw into it (aside from bolt by bolt)
Have you considered adding a digital readout of fence distance so you can get exact dimensions everytime
Wow great idea. How would you do it? What kind of product?
A Canadian Woodworker I'm guessing you would buy one of those cheap digital calipers, dismantle it and attach it to the near corner of the fence with it just touching the dewalts measure marking strip on the front, then zero it when the fencd is touching the blade and you're done I think 🤔
Nice work mate!
Actually aluminum has no memory. So if it’s bent it won’t go back into its original shape as steel would. But 8020 can take a lot of pressure. Also if you add more t slot bolts to the original fence and that should take care of the spacing. When using only two mounting points it can creat a bow in the 8020
That's really interesting, thanks for adding that info! I guess I better not bend it ! It's pretty true right now
Hi there, what a great idea. I was wondering how you measure the exact height where to drill the holes?
It was just based on the measurement where the groove was to attach the t-bolts. I remember it was 1.5 inches or something like that. Then the t-bolts pass through and go perfectly into the t-track.
I would love more information on your bench and how you integrated the table saw in it. I am especially interested in how you maximize the dust collection with it, I have the same saw and the dust collection is garbage
Hi Brandon, good timing - I was just about to start making a video where I show the integration of the Dewalt saw into the table, and how the dust collection (and containment) works. Stay tuned, should have it done in a few days.
Thanks again for the push Brandon, I just posted a video where I show some more details of the saw / bench integration.
Did you consider replacing the original Dewalt alu fence with an extrusion, removing the stock, thin walled malleable rectangular pipe with a similarly tall unit.
I watched you video yesterday and I'm going to put one of these on my new Dewalt table saw. I have a few questions as I am considering doing a few modifications of your method to suit my needs. First of all, I'm thinking of using a 4 ft piece of 1x3 80/20. The price is not that much more for a higher fence. Worthwhile? Secondly, I'm thinking that rather than using MDF or wood as the backing piece, maybe I can find a short piece of 80/20 for the back or the fence (probably the length of the fence. Worth doing? Do you have a link for the type of hardware (T bolts) that will fit this? Thanks Great video, by the way!
Hi Roger, yes I'm sure a 1x3 80/20 extrusion would work great, actually I wish I had got that in the first place. Really the back MDF piece just acts a big washer to not compress the thin aluminium Dewalt stock fence, anything that spreads out the pressure of the bolts would work I'm sure. Here's the bolts I used, www.leevalley.com/en-ca/shop/hardware/jig-and-fixture-parts/65638-1-4-20-t-bolts-and-t-slot-nuts. I think the 3" length.
@@acanadianwoodworker Did you mount the 80/20 so that there is no gap at the bottom with the table or leave a tiny gap like what the original fence has?
@@rogerfluhr5652 I think tiny gap, so it doesn't scrape along the bottom. There's room for up/down play with the t-bolts, if you want to adjust either way.
@@acanadianwoodworker I thank you for helping out here. I've got all the ingredients on order. Looking forward to assembly of this cool mod. I did order the piece of 80/20 (3 inch) for the back side. Can't hurt (it was only 15 bucks). If it doesn't work out, I can always swap out with a piece of wood or MDF. The rear piece will come at 24 inches which I'll cut down. I may groove out the back a bit to cover the 2 screws on each side of the rear of the fence. Give it just a bit more stiffness (I think).
Do you think a flip up platform on the front would help? Maybe an extra foot in front of the saw as a feed to add stability underneath would work? That's always been my sore point with the jobsite saws. Not enough space in front of the blade. Even for crosscut sleds it's hard to have a big enough one to be usable while still being stable. I like your table but I think I would want to extend it so that there is more infeed as well as the longer arm such as what you have. Great idea! thanks for sharing it.
What part o-canada are you in? I'm in Kingston. Glad to see another Canadian on here. I'll take a look around and see what you build.
Hi Terence, I'm in the east part of Toronto, pretty close :). Yes that's a a great idea, some sort of built-in support for the infeed. Right now I just use a roller stand for every workpiece over 12 inches long. The floor in front of the saw table is irregular so I have to level it every time. It'd be nice to have that extra built in support and skip all that!
Possibly adding an in-feed extension base to the 80/20 might also help with larger sheets. You can bolt it on to the bottom of the rail with a rest to sit on the crossfeed for support.
That's a really clever idea, I never would have thought of that.
I opted for 1030 profile which would give me a higher track for mounting featherboards. How high up did you drill the holes in the fence and what size drill bit did you use.
great video and and great idea. Is it easy to drill the holes in the original fence without damaging the fence in any way. How did you exactly drill the holes?
Thanks! Yes it's easy to drill through the stock DW fence, it's made of a pretty thin/hollow aluminum. I just marked the holes and brought it over to a drill press, normal 1/4 inch drill bit.
Thanks for the excellent tip! I'm going to add this to my table saw. You've had this feature for several years now, and I'm wondering if you have any new suggestions? For instance would you go with a taller extrusion such as a 3 inch if you did it over again? I'm on the fence... no pun intended. :)
Good question! I wouldn't go taller - but I would go for a flat face on the blade side, that would make things like registering bevels against the fence a lot easier.
Nice addition, The 80/20 extrusions don't seem to be that expensive compared to a new fence.
Yes the one I linked to is only 20 dollars (I think I paid 80 here in Canada)
@@acanadianwoodworker I'm also in Canada. I looked at getting some the 80/20 extrusions before for a jig but didn't see a Canadain seller.
@@heyimamaker nice! *sings 'Oh Canada'. Yes I don't think amazon.ca does 80/20. But - the actual Canadian distributor is in Mississauga (if you're somewhat near there) - called CPI Automation. They have tonnes of extrusions in stock. There are a lot of other depots like Fastenal that can order the extrusions as well, but don't necessarily stock or have expertise in them.
@@acanadianwoodworker Good to know, I'm in Alberta so that's a tad too far for me :)
@@heyimamaker Try CPI AUTOMATION in Mississauga ON.
Did you find that the dewalt fence was not as straight as the extrusion? I adjusted my rip fence with a dial indicator and found a .002-.003 wow in the centre of the fence but aligned at the ends. I am also considering 1.5 x 3.0 80/20 as it is probably more solid than the 1x2 thus avoiding the slight deflection you mentioned.
No I think I got lucky, the original fence was very straight on my unit. Great idea going with a thicker/bigger extrusion, should be much straighter. And then if you pin it to the fence firmly but lightly, there shouldn't be any distortion added.
I could see losing rip capacity as an issue on many projects...
just by looking at the extrusion I think that's a 20x40 mm
If you drilled a third hole aligned with the 1/2 inch t track on the stock fence in between the top two holes, would that not solve the issue of over tightening the bolts? Is the 1/64 deflection because the top two bolts overtightened pull the extrusion away from the fence at the bottom?
How did you know where to drill the holes?
I just measured the extrusion - the tracks in the extrusion (80/20). The tracks are at 1/2 inch and 1.5 inch. So I drilled at 1.5 inch to capture the top with a t-bolt.
How high up are the screws drilled into your existing fence?
At 1-1/2 inch, to match the position of the top t-track in the extrusion (extrusion height is 2 inches with tracks at 1/2 inch and 1-1/2 inch)
Very nice your shop is! How much costs your table saw? Can I have it in India?
Hi Satyam, the saw was $350.00 CAD. You can buy the Dewalt DW745 tablesaw (similar to this one) from Amazon.in
@@acanadianwoodworker Thanks
Thank you for doing the video. Is one of the "gotchas" the offset than throws your cut indicator on the rack and pinion tape off? Is there enough adjustment in the plastic indicator to adjust for the 80-20 offset? Thanks again for posting!
Yes it actually works really well - the 80/20 extrusion offsets it by an inch, and the plastic cut indicator on the saw is re-adjustable back to zero within that.
I bought the same 80/20 extrusion an assembled it to my fence almost exactly as you did with the 1/2" mdf backing on the fence but I used a two pack of toilet bolts with 1/2" width flanges from Lowes. The fence glides perfectly and I also used the finger tight method without a socket wrench and that works well. The surprise came when I went to adjust the sight gauge on the tape. I have to confess here that I have the model 7491RS saw and there must be a difference in the fence reference because the sight guage was not adjustable within the limits of the hold down screws to accommodate the 1 inch 80/20 addition. So, I took them out and used double sided tape to fix the sight Guage to the rack & pinion channel and it works perfect. If I could send a picture I would. Thanks again for the excellent video and fix.
Since I upgraded according to your directions my cuts have also improved alot. Worth every penny, and it wasn't that many pennies to begin with. ; )
@@philparker6576 really happy it worked out! Yes, it improved my cuts a lot as well.
Great video and I will be setting up my new fence shortly. Thank you! Also love the outfeed table. Any chance you will be doing a walk through of that piece of art?
Hello and thank you from
Vancouver Island. This is a great idea! I plan to incorporate it into the table
I am about to build. I am also very impressed with your table saw - extension table
setup. Mind if I ask where in Canada are you located?
Hi Bevan, thanks for the comments and looking forward to your build! I'm in Toronto (this workshop is in the basement of a house in the east end). I wish I lived on Vancouver Island - that's paradise! The grandeur of nature and landscape there is unparalelled in Canada. Cheers
Can you show more details from this yellow door?
I'm going to do a walk around of the tables / outfeed table soon... stay tuned! I will talk about the yellow door
Subscriber N° 141
Genius. Subscribed. I'm in CA.ON.Cambridge, are you close enough for a beer?
Haha thanks! I'm in the east end of Toronto. I wished I lived in Cambridge, all the good hardwood lumber yards are there! Close enough for a virtual beer :)
@@acanadianwoodworker next time you're out this way, first Guinness is on me. BTW, trying to find non-Amazon source for extrusions is proving quite difficult.
@@DuncanRenovates Yeah it took me a while to find them locally. CPI Automation in Etobicoke has them in stock all the time, can custom lengths for you, etc. cpiautomation.com
@@acanadianwoodworker Thanks!
@@acanadianwoodworker order placed. Thanks again!
Doing you have more detailed specs for dust shield around saw and the front cover?
Hi Ron, no, I just made it up as I went along. Pretty simple, you just have to build four 'walls' out of 1/4 inch MDF, and have them attach to each other. And then a trap door on the front so you can make height adjustments, etc.
Domo arigato mr roboto
7:48 for starters, the bigger saws have flat surfaces, and straight fences.
Not sure what year your Saw is, but since 2018, Dewalt has snowballed in terms of quality. (Theyre now little more than a slightly better "Craftsman". )
Now, with all current jobsite saws, whether $99, or $2800, im yet to see a decent flat surface, or a good fence on any of them. So, while a longer fence might help, the truth is, for precision woodwork, you will need to joint and plane your boards/stock. This saw just isnt built well, so it wont do what you might see other saws do.
I bought 72" level from Harbor Freight, clamp it to the fence, cost $20...
Hello, I have the same mod on my table saw fence for my DWE7480 and I love it as well. The only differences are that I have a 36 inch extrusion and I filled the stock fence with wood instead of attaching it to the back. I didn't want to affect the straighteness of the fence by overtightening the bolts.
I have to rebuild the table that I built for my saw for better dust collection. Does your saw rest on its base or do you have it hanging from its top? From what I can see, your top is really flush and I want to achieve the same result when I make the new table. Thanks for sharing!
That's a great idea filling the stock fence with wood to stiffen it - good one! Yes my saw is resting on its base, bolted in with 4x 1/4-20 bolts to a melamine support underneath. Took a while to level / make the support area so the table saw sits a millimetre or so above the general outfeed table. I tried everything to contain the dust, as the saw sprays dust pretty much everywhere. The only thing that has worked well in the end is building an enclosure around the entire saw (you see a bit of it - the yellow board over the front). And then all the dust collects underneath and I periodically vacuum it out.
You do have to spend some time setting the saw up... blade, fence, etc. But once done, the saw is great. Fairly compact which is Nice th-cam.com/users/postUgkxXh-4_3-ZT1fFWP91ZV7iVqzElr0lEb-a I did get an Incra Miter Gauge which takes some setup as well. The stock miter gauge can be adjusted in the miter slot with a little painter's tape... this tightens up the side to side play a lot.
I hear your brother good job
That's 2040 ?!??
No it's 1020 I think, 2 inch by 1 inch
@@acanadianwoodworker yeah I had a look around. Cannot purchase this in UK.
Also would like to point out that 2080 t/v slot rails are cheaper in most places if you cannot get ahold of this 1020 profile.
I dig it!
Great idea! Very simple yet effective. By the way, is your original DeWalt fence truly square to your table top? If you take your straight edge and lay it on the table top at different locations with varying angles with reference to table top, you may be surprised to see that the table top is not that flat. So jobsite saws accuracy is good enough for construction industry and may not be accurate for fine woodworking. So what is the point of these improvements from fine woodworking point of view?
That being said, your shop and its layout is fabulous. You may want to consider a SawStop JSS... just saying.
Thank you for sharing. Liked & subscribed.
Yes you're right the Dewalt job site saw's tables aren't flat. I had to exchange my first one and then got lucky finding one with only 0.3 millimetre off. Which I think is pretty good for cast aluminum which can warp a lot in the cooling process. It's not anywhere near the performance of a professional cabinet saw, but it is always an advantage to be able to cut as straight as possible, even for simple or multiple rip cuts where you're always referencing off the last cut made.
Al-oooooo-minum all the way.... I thought it was pronounced Al-u-minium
This was a great idea. Do you still use this saw / fence? I have a DeWalt DWE 7485 and I am looking at upgrading the fence. Anyways, you have a new sub ;-)
If you have the inclination, stop by my tiny channel and say hi! Cheers.
Yes I still use the saw / fence combo (wow looking at the date on the video its been a few years now). I'll check out your channel thanks!!
Are you sure that's 80/20?
Looks like 20/40 to me.
Это не 80х20. Скореевсего это 60х20
Nice casual-cool-sexy-dj-voice-posturing bro.
I feel dumb
Neat and effective idea. And it has the bonus of providing a better(?) way of mounting your Table Saw Stock Guides, in a similar way to my copy of your system lumberjocks.com/projects/402393 - although my fence had TWO T slots already.
Ahhh ahhhm and ahhh ahhh aahhhm aahhh ahhhm?
You say ummmm to much bro