The Best Table Saw Upgrade You'll Ever Make
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 16 ก.ย. 2024
- The MetMo Pocket Driver is probably the finest tool I've ever held. Check it out here:
www.metmo.co.u...
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Here's everything you'll need to do this project, not counting plywood:
Horizontal Toggle Clamps: amzn.to/4gmNq9E
Feather Boards (pick your color): amzn.to/4eeaUvB
T Slot Router Bit, 1/2" Shank: amzn.to/3zl79Wg
T Bolts and Knobs that should work, but I haven't tried them: amzn.to/3MFqFzS
Titebond II: amzn.to/47pK2GW
Great job! Love the DIY fence.
Matt Outlaw! That's really kind of you. Thanks! I hope the guys at Bow Products feel the same. I really did almost buy their fence extension until I realized I could build something similar.
And everyone was civil about it! No vince vcg vs Clint tool review zone 👏
@@MattHmm-rq6dn It's because Matt is one of the nicest guys on TH-cam, and I have nothing but respect for him!
Love my favorite anti-TH-cam woodworker TH-camr woodworker.
Thank you so much!
I'm not sure that featherboard is doing anything that far back from the blade. The point of a featherboard is to apply pressure close to the blade so the workpiece stays controlled there. I use two push sticks when I rip on the table saw, one to push down and one to push forward. That gets it done for me. When I use a featherboard it is just to make sure the work is pushed up against the fence before the blade.
You're right. I'm new to feather boards, and I was doing it wrong. Thanks for pointing it out!
I agree. If I'm doing a narrow rip, I'll use two, fore and aft of the blade. This keeps it pressed down through the cut, even as the center of gravity shifts at the end.
@@DeanRockne I just use a lead in featherboard. I count on the follow through to clear the end of a cut. I think the vast majority of incidents happen towards the end of operations when people mistakenly think they're done. You have to stay with it until it's completely over. Premature victory celebrations can lead to defeat.
Man, I like this guy, finally a guy that doesn’t have a pro shop that uses what he has and his ingenuity to get shit done.
Thank you, friend!
You almost introduced your daughter to kick back. Seems the down feather board was too far back and the workpiece can be seen climbing up the blade during the cut. The push stick also provided zero down pressure. Otherwise good video.
You're not entirely wrong about that. The next day I brought her out to the shop again to show her how we should have done it, but that's not the footage that you saw. The saving grace was that the edge of the blade guard kept the workpiece from drifting up further. I also pushed her out of the line of fire, but edited that part out to avoid the lengthy explanation
@@worstworkshop i was going to mention the same thing....Any way to add a splitter to your tablesaw? This would help with kickback as well.
It has one already!
@@worstworkshop nice..guess I missed it.
“Shut up it works” classic my friend love it
Glad you enjoyed the video!
You left out of the group I’m in… We don’t have any time and we don’t have any money either. But seriously, I did consider that till I saw the $300 price tag. It is superior to even what you have as far as the BOW feather board inserts are concerned. They’re the best feather boards I’ve ever seen or used. But what you did is perfectly satisfactory and functional. Good job…
I agree with all that. And thank you.
I don’t like the idea of pushing behind the work piece and not being able to follow through.
You just need a longer push stick. Another feather board behind the blade would help too
Indeed it's all in the follow through.
The whole process was wrong and potentially very dangerous.
The logic is sound but I have no money or time. 😂 the song is super fun. I am looking forward to you singing it. Great video 😊
That would be fun!
Much respect for catching your potential kickback scenario-though I'm sure haters will still hate. I get why you like making things rather than buying. It helps build skills and woodworking is just not an inexpensive hobby. I love the fence you built. I did a fence that slides over my Dewalt's fence, like a tenoning jig with t track because I had some leftover from something else. It's enough to hold a part for making tenons, to keep regular rip cuts held in place with a feather board mounted both before and after the blade, one in it's usual place in the miter slot in front of the blade on the left side. Two of the feather boards are shop made because I was practicing band saw cuts a long time ago and I'm too cheap to by the mag switch feather boards I really want. 😉Great job sir!
Thanks! Even after thirty years of woodworking, mistakes are inevitable. All we can do is create the safest environment possible. Hint: Nothing messes you up more than setting up a camera!
I was very, very interested in the Bow system. Almost pulled the trigger on it , but the price was a deterrent.
I'm willing to give this DIY solution a try!
I have a Bow on my table saw fence for one reason. It is exactly 1" thick, so you can still use the scale on your saw and just subtract an inch to the measurements. I have some multichannel that I got years ago on sale (probably at Woodcraft), but never used it for this because it would negate your scale on your saw, being like 3/4" or even 5/8" thick.
That's a good point! My saw is so old that I can't really read the scale anymore, but I can see where it would be an issue. The extension is at least easily removable.
@@worstworkshop I did have a high 3/4" fence permanently attached to my old saw fence, as it did not have a scale on it. And I, like many I suspect, first saw it on @731 Woodworks presentation on it.
"It is exactly 1" thick, so you can still use the scale on your saw and just subtract an inch to the measurements."
Assuming you're using inches and not millimetres.
@@PJRayment That is an assumption. My saw has inch markings on it, and not metric. It would be nice if Bow Products had a metric version, where it is exactly 2cm, or some other regular measurement.
You’re feather boards are doing absolutely nothing
They should be closer to the blade. Lesson learned!
@@worstworkshop that’s what I was getting at the one on the rail you made can be in line with the blade and the one on the table top should be right in front of the blade. Just don’t put the one on the table top in line with the blade it will pinch the board. Also it’s dangerous to push from the back without down word pressure in the board lifts up that’s how kick back happens I know from the 7 stitches that I got in my hand from the board flying back.
As someone who actually bought the big bow fence system (because if you're gonna buy a gimmick, you gotta buy the big one) I can tell you that it absolutely works and I love it. However, it is very expensive for what it is. I've already got a big out feed table and I haven't had need for it on my bandsaw yet but I honestly don't like the in-feed support system. It only supports material on one side and you can't just clamp it too the fence, you HAVE to use a leg attachment (that you have to make out of 2x4, which isn't a huge deal but I don't see why they couldn't just include some kind of telescoping leg for it or something.
I will say this, I do really like their feather boards, that system works really well.
Thanks for sharing your experience with it!
There might be some smart wizz kid out there who could put this in a graph or someting, like when to DIY and when to buy. This extension is where the lines meet, some might DIY, some might buy.
Great video!
Thanks!
Lol! I love the router table! I have one almost identical to it. It's not my only one though...I just needed another for one specific cut.
Someday I'll get something better, but it does work!
Yeah I have the Bow fence and it’s awesome. Great job on the fence!
Thanks! I hope you enjoy the Bow fence too!
Will be looking at my collection of extrusions for a difference reason now.
You had me at not spending a lot of money! 🤣 Awesome Idea to use up the scrap wood we already have.
If necessity is the mother of invention, poverty is the father
@@worstworkshop 🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣 very true.
@@worstworkshop EPIC! I can't believe I've never heard that. Did you make it up? My in-laws are farmers and I've always thought farmers are "inventors in the wild": Lots of necessity, and usually not a lot of money.
@@daveb7408 I think so? It's true though, isn't it?
Thanks - your video confirms something I've been doing for years.
That using a aluminum router table fence with featherboards makes for a nice safe and accurate table-saw fence.
Something that can be clamped onto a cheap table-saw that has incurate T-slots.
I've also noticed, as you did, this approach seems to reduce the chances of kickback.
You'd certainly think so. Thanks for your comment!
I have 2 Baumann pocket screwdrivers. Would not trade them for anything. You are absolutely correct it was around before their product was released.
Seriously?? What a collector's item!
@@worstworkshop both from same garage sale
Excellent work, man! It turned out great! 😃
Nicely done!!!
Stay safe there with your family! 🖖😊
Thank you very much!
Everyone likes a fancy new tool but drooling is free 🤤. Thay being said fun/easy design and tasteful said and done! 👏
Wisely said! And thank you
Great job it turned out great and your daughter did a great job with her first cut on a table saw 👏👏👏
Thanks so much!
I'm sure they work well (both theirs and yours), but having the feather boards on the fence - to me - would just get in the way. My push block sits on top of the board to hold it down and a heal to push. I do think the feather board on the table holding the work piece against the blade would be useful. I use a scrap piece lol
It's a different way of doing things. I'm also used to using a push block, but it takes away the possibility of blade guards too. I think this way is safer, but it's certainly an adjustment.
You can make a gripper type of push block by just using a 4x4 with sandpaper glued to the bottom. It doesn't matter if it gets cut because it's supposed to.
I myself put the feather boards closer to the blade. I get them as close as I can without touching the blade.
I tried making my own fence extension but when I clamp it to the fence it throws off the 90 degrees to the blade.
Interesting video... When it first came available, I was one of the first to buy the 46" fence to use on my Dewalt 7491 table saw. That was Oct, 2023. At the time I was pretty new to woodworking g and didn't believe my skills were adequate to build a fence that would be straight, accurate, etc. After installing the fence I realized that the in-feed and out-feed (the green things) were no level with my the table saw table. I then removed the spacers that fit on the boo tom of the fence (designed to keep the fence from scraping on the table) and that helped but the supports were still higher than the table!! I was in contact wroth BOW and they were most interested in trying to understand the issue - I even sent a TON of photos for them to look at. Bottom line, the issue has never been resolved. I was told that my problem has only been reported by a handful of users!! The fence is a very cool add-on but, for me, requires that I am vigilant when using the in-feed and out-feed supports. Kinda disappointing!
That's a bummer. You mean you took off the bumpers on the bottom of the extension? You could try to build replacements. I know they have a right angle configuration, but I bet you could do it
I removed the bumpers on the bottom of the fence... it now sits directly on the table without them. I had to do that so the green things would be near level with the table.. and they are still just a bit higher than the table.. in other words the green supports are not level with the table.... hope that explains it better. - Thanks, Larry
Thins came through to my email but can;t find it the comments - "@ray6tw
@EEEZSolutionS Adding some spacer between the fence and the supports might help. Sanding some off from the supports might work also."
The green supports attach to the bottom of the fence with T-Bolts and there is no room to add a spacer.. or do you mean try sanding the top of the support? I'd love to send you a photo and get your feedback because I may be missing something - Thanks, Larry
I believe I understand what he's saying. If you took a belt sander to the top of those green supports and removed some material, you might be there. They probably wouldn't look as pretty, but better than having them sit on a shelf
Hey Thanks for weighing in..I'd thought about that but just couldn't bring myself to mess up the supports. But that may be the only way to resolve the issue... UGH!
Nicely done! Many skills can be gained from building our own tools, upgrades, and jigs! It's great to have options!
Very true!
Great video as usual.
For mine I used, (POWERTEC 71223 Multi T-Tracks | 36” Long - 3” High- $43). And, (DCT 5 Star Knobs Kit 1/4in-20 Threaded Knob, Bolt with Knob, Clamping Knob Jig Knobs T Track Knobs and Bolts 4-Pack - $13). Very versatile. Both from Amazon.
I did buy the Bow feather boards. I think that they're worth the money. Take care.
Good solution. And I don't disagree about the value of the feather boards.
Nice build and for WAY less $. You do need some type of outfeed side feather-board to keep the workpiece down against the table & fence... perhaps a simple one made with a rollerblade wheel or two. Tilt it towards the fence to keep the cut piece from drifting into the back of the blade. There are a number of YT videos on how to make them.
For the cost of the BOW, you're more than 2/3rds the way to getting the Jessem Clear-Cut TS which, IMHO, is better in both function and build. I absolutely love mine and use it all the time for every cut except the narrowest of them (
Another feather board is coming. I just didn't have it when I filmed. I'd love to get my hands on that Jessem system at some point!
Love the video. Look forward to your unique insights and positive approach each time.
Thank you so much!
Others concede the issues I saw. Great video. Concept is sound. I don’t remember how long ago I clamped father boards to my fence, but it was probably in the 90s.
I'm new to feather boards and still learning how to best use them. I really don't like putting my fingers on the far side of the blade though, so I think they'll stay on the saw.
@@worstworkshop they are great when you get used to them. They provide consistent pressure as well as kick back protection improving cuts. Good on router table too.
@@ChrisStCyr-gnt7 I think I'm committed to them at this point. Big upside for just a little setup
It’s about what you need and want. What others offer may not suit your needs for the price. I’d rather build my own as it’s an experience that makes it more worthwhile. Love the old table saw. I’ve an old Delta that is almost like that but I need a fence like that so thank you for the timely video.
I absolutely agree!
Ingenuity on a budget. Great job, Worsty!
Thanks Brett!
I always thought about bulding something like that. You show that you don't have to buy every tool and accessory. Some can be easily build. Good job my friend. I build a high fence for resawing thick wood, since I don't have a band saw (which will certainly change in the future) which works similar to your fence.
I don't fault the people that would rather just spend the money. That's fine. But we can't all do that.
@@worstworkshop even if we can, or could. Why don't build some accessories ourselves. It's not a crime to save money. And besides there's the fun in building such things.
Thank you. I have been considering just this idea. I have time and some plywood scraps, more than I have money, especially the time part.
Glad it was helpful!
Those doors behind you look awesome. I love how all the joints are tight and square.
Thanks! Do you mean the cabinet doors?
@@worstworkshop I guess thos are cabinet doors. Maybe you made them that way on purpose, but there is not 1 tight joint on the entire cabinet door.
Ah! I see what you're saying. Those aren't joints. They're just decorative. Except for a little plywood, the whole thing is made from a single 2x4. I appreciate the observation, but they're not supposed to look like tight joints.
@@worstworkshop Yeah, I assumed you did that on purpose. Sometimes mine come out like that, but not on purpose. Maybe because I had to many beers...or tequila shots....hehe
As long as you leave the workshop with all your fingers attached!
Great video. Honest and valuable opinions!
Thanks!
Another great video! Thanks. Oh, and thanks a lot for that song. It's the worst...
Is it stuck in your head too?
Really like what you made here bud. Love the dust hood too. I am in the process of another shot at this one. Not free but somewhere in between.
Can't wait to see it!
I can't even get on youtube anymore without somebody else telling me about the..........." Metmo Screwdriver"
Ha!
One thing I don't need is another screwdriver. I must have enough screwdrivers for a half a dozen people. But that's not to say I wouldn't like a few more. I wouldn't mind a really nice precision set. I have precision screwdrivers but they're not the best. They still do the precision screwdriver thing whenever I happen to need a precision screwdriver though.
A word on gluing. Use a notched trowel to spread the glue. Look for the ones that are used for linoleum or vinyl tile. They also make them for applying plastic laminates like Formica. It's the polite way to spread glue.
Thanks for the tip!
Norm Abram made a table saw fence extension some 30 years ago on NYWS.
I thought I'd seen that before! I couldn't find footage of it though. If you come across it, or know the episode to check, let me know!
I think you also want the featherboards closer to the blade
It actually depends on the feather board. The more flex they have, the more you can push them down. With these, I rest them flat on the board, then put a little pressure on them, and then tighten. The ones that give downward pressure mostly just hold the work down though. The side pressure does more of the work to prevent kickback.
This is brilliant!!!!!! Too bad I bought the BOW products 3 months ago 😵
You'll be served well by it, I'm sure. This is just the poor man's solution!
Among other things, you need a featherboard on the other side of (above) the workpiece. You might consider adding this to your blade guard design, for one thing. This would greatly assist in preventing kickback.
I am curious if you considered the bowflex featherboards, as they arguably have a better design than classic featherboards. I'm open to argument on that, but it feels like the arguments for the Bowflex featherboard design are valid.
The Bow featherboards are significantly better, I'm sure. They're also about $40 each. You're right about needing another featherboard. I just didn't have it yet. It's coming.
Why not just use a tablesaw the normal way?
Not entirely sure what the normal way is. What do you mean by that?
I wish I had a router table as high tech as yours. You should see what I use 😮😊
Oh no...I'm scared.
Yeah I cut a hole in a wing on my table saw. Then I share the fence between the saw and the router table.
@@1pcfred that is an interesting solution. I'll have to give that some thought
@@OldZionsWoods-sl7zb I've seen it a lot in small shops that don't have the room for a dedicated router table. So it's nothing I invented. There's trade offs. I know a lot of folks like making those dedicated router tables. It's one of those woodworking projects. But when they're done I don't know how many like living with those things.
Whew! Nice video David, I can tell you put TONS of work into it! Very smooth and professional!
I was kind of terrified at a few points - if I tried to bore a hole that big, I would get it twisted out of my hand - shouldn't that be clamped down first? I remember (45 years ago!!!) being competent with the table saw at high school woodshop. I never got a kickback though I did see one. The instructor reminded us to use these Pusher Sticks all the way through the cut. So they might get shredded a bit but we could always maintain pressure on piece against the fence. I'm amazed that about halfway through the cut, the piece is free floating. Is that normal these days? What keeps it from drifting slightly and initiating a kickback?
To address the part about it floating up, no. It's not normal. Little Bit was pushing on the wrong part of the board, and it could have caused a kickback. If it did, however, it wouldn't have caused injury, because she was out of the line of fire and her fingers were on the correct side of the blade. We talked about it, and even refilmed it, but I didn't like the footage. Should have probably included it anyway. *shrug*
On the drill press, generally speaking, it should be clamped down or placed against a fence. The reason I didn't is just because I know my tools. You can get a feel for something like that, and it becomes a calculated risk. Your shop teacher taught you correctly though
@@worstworkshop yeah my dad and teachers were really strict. I followed suit though and they helped me get certified on gas and TIG welding and that was a hoot 🤓
But you are my favorite TH-camr . . .
Even if it's not true, I'm glad you said it. Thanks!
It's also worth mentioning, I saw it first on Stumpy Nubs Woodworking Journal 😁
His was about the same time. I watch all his videos
@@worstworkshop I first discovered the bow feather boards system from him as well, that's kinda why I was so excited for the fence system. I liked the feather boards a lot so I generally assumed the fence system would be just as good. I don't regret buying it now but I do wish I'd maybe tried to make something first. You mentioned all the extruded aluminum "predecessors", for lack of a better term, and that made me remember all those I've seen over the years. In fact, I'm currently looking for one of those pieces that's wide enough to make a router table out of. But I think these guys were definitely just kind of in the right place at the right time. And I appreciate the hell out of anyone who is willing to show people equal or better and less expensive alternatives to these kinds of things, it's so easy to fall down the "I have to have all of these professionally made gadgets to be a woodworker" rabbit hole, especially when you're just starting out and the price of things starts getting really prohibitive and, frankly, intimidating.
This is genius
Thank you!
Woodpecker's LS positioner & table saw fence has had that,,,what,, 15 years ago.
There's nothing new under the sun in woodworking
I guess what I mean is that the board as you push it into the blade can move away from the fence since the feather board is so far away. I understand about adjustment of the feather board relationship to the workpiece. You should also have the feather board more to the left, closer to the blade. I think he misunderstands me. @anyone?
You're absolutely right. The feather boards should both be farther left. The one on the table almost up to the front edge of the blade. And the fence board can be farther could even have two on the fence with one beside the blade (would interfere with the dust port... So maybe that was the decision factor for its location...)
But that board is not being controlled for quite a while in that cut. The riving knife is doing most of the work
@@DavidBaumgarner Oh! I get what you're saying. You're absolutely right. Both the feather boards should be as close to the blade guard as possible. My bad. They were adjusted by the next cut though.
Good job
Thank you, my friend!
The girls work had me very nervous as that piece was lifting off the table.... Fence was fine but that push stick combo was unsafe. Need top pressure through the cut.. you might end up in a stumpy nubs example video..
I've always wanted to be in one of t hose. I even submitted once. And yes, it made me nervous too. She was, fortunately, offline from the workpiece. You can't tell, but the blade guard is keeping it from lifting any more. The feather boards were way too far away though, and she should have placed the push stick on the top half of the board.
Wanted to BOW fence but not sure i want to pay for it. I like the 1 inch thickness because I use the tape on my saw I don't keep a measuring tape near.
You might also check out this version my friend Mark made, which gives you even more real estate on top: th-cam.com/video/BAsbY0NKS2M/w-d-xo.html
It’s made for a contractor saw. If you have a cabinet saw it is too short. I use mine for certain applications especially ripping large plywood sections.
I think that's the best use case, but they actually have it in three lengths, up to 46". I think they used to have one that was 52" as well, but nobody needs that.
That MetMo tool is nice, but I don't think I can pay $130+ for a screwdriver and another $200 for all their cool accessories. I'm still paying off my SawStop.
I get it!
Good Idea, BUT having used BOW featherboards…. I will not use ANY other featherboards than bow products because the foam attachment grips the wood in place and prevents the kick back that other featherboards do not. However… I will not pay for an expensive table extension, so great idea to make it yourself.
I've never used them, but I'm certain you're right about them. They make a lot of sense
Would be curious to know what plastic u would put on top instead of varnishing with polyethylene (sorry probably the wrong phrasing) and yeah I completely agree nothing new under the sun. I have been clamping feather boards to my fence for years. Though the high fence idea is nice.
Might also work well with knock off dovetail jigs which might be easier to route out than t track.
Most people would use a phenolic sheet, but the last time I checked, something that big would go for between $75-100. I really like that dovetail idea
Good stuff.
Thanks!
Wow man, be careful with those cheap Chinese router bits off Amazon. I’ve seen them fail spectacularly. Good video man, right up my alley 👆
Thanks! I generally buy the 1/2" shank because
I don't trust the smaller ones
Yeah I wouldn't cut that in one pass. I'd use a straight bit to get to depth then run the T bit to make the slot. At that it's still a fairly sketchy and heavy cut. Someone should make an intermediate roughing T slot bit.
@@1pcfredI saw one person make the straight part using the table saw and then use the bit. He didn't want to spend $ for a straight router bit.
@@a9ball1 that and circular saw blades remove material at a higher volume rate than router bits do anyways. Blades are just bigger than bits are. So they're going to take bigger bites.
You know... _I have this 6ft long 1ft wide piece of ply just sitting there waiting for me to find a project that needs it..._
There ya go!
For something so easy to make, it just makes sense to make it.Good on Bow for making a great product though I love there push sticks to there a quality product but a little over priced for sure
I feel the same way
Idea for your vacuum collector... Get an old desk lamp arm ditch the socket and mount your collector to the arm. Ta-Da! move it anywhere ya want.
Oh my gosh. That's brilliant!
@@worstworkshop take it brother! Great work, love the channel
I'm all about working cheap. This is one of the best things about your channel... showing new ways to save money... and, in a funny way! SO... why are you indorsing the most expensive screwdriver known to man? Next thing you know, you'll be using a Festool Domino... LOL
I'd like to have a Festool Domino. The patents start running out next year! So maybe it won't be a Festool Domino, domino machine. Or maybe Festool will have to reduce their prices to compete in an open market. Because that's happening real soon now. I expect there to be ones available for a quarter the price.
I'm not suggesting it as a tool for the working man. It's closer to an executive toy that is also a very effective screwdriver. It's kinda like the MetMo Cube, which serves no practical purpose at all, but is still really cool
@@worstworkshop 😆... if only I could afford it... LOL
@@1pcfred Or you could make a router jig out of scrap :D
@@PaleRider559 you could but dominoes are faster and easier to use. Which is why pros love them. The efficiency is unparalleled. You're trading money for time. Which if you use a domino enough turns out to be an excellent deal. An amateur would never see a return though. Personally I don't even care for the joint a domino produces. But I'm not a big fan of pocket holes either and I use those. There's places where I simply don't care.
Cool! What prevents kick back if the wood pinches at the back of (exit) the blade? I got worried about your daughter when the wood started to rise. Do you know if the Bow product keeps the board against the fence?
Good question. That's where the riving knife would come into play on most table saws. On mine, the job is done by the splitter. Any feather board placed before the blade will keep the workpiece pushed into the fence if it's placed correctly, but you should never have one on the far side of the blade, because it will cause pinch and potentially kickback.
The two big problems I see with it is that it does nothing to control the cut piece beyond the blade, and adding anything to the fence, even only an inch or so, takes away the total cutting width of the saw.
My saw can handle 48" wide sheets, and can trim a 46" piece of plywood within the original fence.
My saw has zero provisions for a riving knife or a blade guard. It may have had some sort of blade guard when new but that was 60 years ago or so.
My biggest issue is not having enough room or support on the outfeed side. Ideally I'd have a 4ft long table as wide as the saw table or more but I don't have that sort of space.
My saw has a down draft vacuum set up in that the lower cabinet is sealed and there' sa 4" dust collector port on the side but it does little for dust on top of the table or from dust and chips thrown back at you. The type of blade being used affects this greatly though. I often run a blade with surface mounted carbide cutters at a higher RPM, so all that stays on top is actual cutting chips, most dust is drawn downward.
The table top is too big to reach across too, I cannot reach the rear of the table while standing in front, and I cannot reach the blade from the left side. (I could reach from the right side but that would be on the wrong side of the fence.
The stock fence on the saw is pretty decent, its a gear driven mechanism with a front only guide bar but with a wide roller base that engages that bar, which has embedded gear teeth for fine adjustments. It also sits rather high compared to most other saws, being 44" tall at the top of the table.
You saw sounds great! I need to add another feather board to mine to go behind the blade. Right now the blade guard is doing that work, but I have another feather board coming soon
You bought feather boards!?!! lol. I did the same with a crosscut sled “kit” that came with all the t bolts and knobs, worth it to not source them all individually in my case.
Sometimes that's just how it works
entertaining and informative!
Thank you!
All these pro youtubers, none have a sliding table saw..
I'd love to have one
I spotted a verse from 1 Corinthians 12. Love it! I also noticed the Star Trek reference on your miter station. Is there a story behind that?
I made a video almost a year ago where I built it and said most TH-camrs build miter stations like the Starship Enterprise. Someone suggested I add that tag to mime and I thought it was hilarious
That is delightful! I went back and watched The REAL MAN'S Miter Saw Station. If the average TH-camr miter saw station is an Enterprise, this and your other builds might be more like Serenity (from Firefly): cobbled together from scrap, likely to get unwanted attention from the (TH-cam woodworking) authorities, but surprisingly functional.
the point of the green foam feather boards is that they are supposed to be safer, good video though
Absolutely. Like I said, I have nothing against the company, and I think it's a great product. I've never had a chance to use those feather boards, but from what I hear, they're really nice.
@@worstworkshopI have and use the feather boards and love them.
Yeah but you made it more expensive than the original by coating it with Johnson's Paste Wax
Ha! I sure would have. But that was Minwax
that's one of the most unsafe things I have seen, you have no way to control the stock after it passes the feather board. when your daughter was cutting you could see the stock lifting off the table that is an accident waiting to happen
You clearly need to widen your viewing experience.
You saw a lack of experience on my daughter's part, and misplacement of feather boards on my part, but it wasn't as dangerous as you think. For one, the blade guard was preventing the work piece from rising any higher. Also...
Preventing kickback injury is actually very simple. The two reasons people get injured is 1. Because their fingers got pulled into the blade, and 2. Because the work piece was ejected into them at high velocity.
By keeping your hands several inches on the near side of the blade, they'll be pushed away from it when kickback occurs. Physics won't allow for any other possibilities. And if you stand offline from your workpiece (you should always do this - I don't know why no one ever talks about it), you won't be hit by a direct ejection. You could potentially be hit an an indirect ejection, but not in this case, because the blade guard prevented it.
Yep I hate spending money too 😂
Hey, I just saw that headphone stand video you did. Nice work!
@@worstworkshop Thank you very much 😊 I've made a coffee table as well.
I love spending money but my wallet never wants to cooperate.
why have you got the feather boards so far back? You want them as close to the saw blade as you can get.
100%! The reason is because while I've used a table saw for more than thirty years, I'm new to feather boards. As soon as I saw the footage, I realized what I'd done and corrected it. But the footage stayed, because my daughter didn't have time to do it again correctly
She is so danged cute!
Thank you. She really is!
Your skills are wasted here on earth, they need your help on the International Space Station with that re-entry pod!
Ha! Only if they have wifi
THANX FOR ANOTHER GREAT VIDEO N I KNO UR DAUGHTER WAS MILES AWAY BUT PUTTING HER HAIR BACK ALWAYS HELPS ROUND SPINNING PARTS, ON ANOTHER NOTE U SUCK !!!! BUT UR GETTIN BETTER LMAO
I bought three different router tables and all I learned is that expensive doesn't mean good. Stupid featuritis meant they were not good at the basic cut. So I build one. Solid and straight. Much like yours but I used mdf as the top.
The only reason I used that material is that my girls got tired of an old bookshelf and I got to take it apart for materials. :)
There used to be a show on PBS with this guy and his son and all they used was a homemade router table. It was literally a piece of laminate scrap they had a hole in. That was it. The show ran for a few seasons. They'd clamp fences to it and do all sorts of things. I'd watch just for the comedy factor. They didn't even have an insert. It was just scrap, hole, router screwed under it. You could slap it together in 5 minutes. Classic!
@@1pcfred Yup. Two speed clamps and a straight edge is what I use. The only featuritis thing I added was a switched power plug.
@@lucidmoses the router I use as a table router was kinda made to be a table router. The engineers were certainly thinking about it when they designed it. So the switch on it works pretty good under a table. Then it has this big honking depth adjustment attachment. Kinda like a door knob on a stem. I have an old Hitachi M12V big ugly green machine. One of the boxy looking ones. It was the cheapest monster router at the time. So that sold me.
@@1pcfred Yea, Mine isn't the most convenient to change the depth. I had a table where you could use a allen key to change the depth from the top. It was pretty convenient to change the depth but man was it frustrating. It added a tinny bit of slop to the cuts but even worse was it would suddenly start wandering and change the depth. Usually shallower for some reasons. Mine is hard to change the depth but at least it stays where it's put and is rock solid.
I have seen some industrial cnc router stations that can do better then my table but I think I'd put that much money into a new car. :p
comment for the algorithm
I appreciate it!
Surprised 731 didn't spraypaint Festool or Woodpecker on it.
He's a busy guy
Scary watching you push that wood through like that..very dangerous.
We did it wrong. Part of it was due to my daughter's inexperience. Part of it was because I've not used feather boards before. We shot it again the next day, but the footage didn't turn out. It's not dangerous though, and I'll tell you why.
Preventing kickback injury is actually very simple. The two reasons people get injured is 1. Because their fingers got pulled into the blade, and 2. Because the work piece was ejected into them at high velocity.
By keeping your hands several inches on the near side of the blade, they'll be pushed away from it when kickback occurs. Physics won't allow for any other possibilities. And if you stand offline from your workpiece (you should always do this - I don't know why no one ever talks about it), you won't be hit by a direct ejection. You could potentially be hit an an indirect ejection, but not in this case, because the blade guard prevented it.
@@worstworkshop It’s important to put downward pressure on the workpiece as you push through, the minimal contact you have on the very end of the board isn’t sufficient.
...shut up, it works. 👍
The worst workshop on youtube! That is why it is the best :D.
Thanks!
So, I don’t get the screwdriver?
It's not a working man's tool. It's more like an executive toy for guys that appreciate tools. It's also like a nice watch. It doesn't keep time any better than a cheap one, but that doesn't negate its worth. If you have to carry around a screwdriver in your pocket, for whatever reason, it might as well be something cool.
This guy here you will never find a board as straight as a straight edge especially not wood. Bow is aluminum very straight made. Beginners think you can rig anything. You can rig somethings but not no straight edge. Especially a cheap sheet of plywood. Lol😂😂. 😢😢
I've actually been woodworking for over thirty years, but thanks for your comment.
I hate the term “updated for modern” use. Too much baggage. Show updated for modern audiences. Games updated for modem audiences. Tools updated for modem users.
I was about to call CSD when you had your daughter push a board through that saw. All joking aside, you really need to work on YOUR technique and understanding of what proper table saw operation is before you hurt yourself, or someone else while trying to be an "influencer". It is actually dangerous doing what you are doing.
I've been using a table saw for over thirty years without incident, but I'm always willing to learn. I'd never worked with feather boards before, and as soon as I saw this footage, I realized two mistakes. First - the feather boards weren't close enough to the blade. And second - my daughter should have positioned her push stick on the upward half of the work piece. We've corrected all this, but I had to get the video out. Is there something else I missed?
All that crap is in the way making it more dangerous. Just obstacles
I appreciate you sharing your opinion
Metmo....getting screwed by a driver
Glued and screwed! That's what happened to me when I got married.....
HA!
What's the solution for people that neither have time nor money?
If you figure that out, let me know
Patience is a virtue.
I love your videos, and I appreciate you sharing your journey with your daughters. I like others was worried about kick back. It's an interesting idea, but I would probably rethink the dust collector. It really gets in the way of pushing your work all of the way through safely. Personally, I prefer a push block, or something like: Push stick template and plans from John Heisz.