NOTE: I made a couple of cuts in this video by not applying downward pressure through the entire table saw cut. The proper technique would be to put the downward feather board as close as possible to the blade, and add another right after the blade. After thirty years of woodworking, I've never really used feather boards for downward pressure, always opting for a push block instead. Unfortunately, with a setup like this, a push block doesn't always work. That's fine, as long as you use a good push stick and the feather boards are positioned correctly. In the end, nobody died, and I hope you can learn from my mistakes. Thanks for all the concern.
I'm not sure that featherboard is doing anything that far back from the blade. The point of a featherboard is to apply pressure close to the blade so the workpiece stays controlled there. I use two push sticks when I rip on the table saw, one to push down and one to push forward. That gets it done for me. When I use a featherboard it is just to make sure the work is pushed up against the fence before the blade.
I agree. If I'm doing a narrow rip, I'll use two, fore and aft of the blade. This keeps it pressed down through the cut, even as the center of gravity shifts at the end.
@@DeanRockne I just use a lead in featherboard. I count on the follow through to clear the end of a cut. I think the vast majority of incidents happen towards the end of operations when people mistakenly think they're done. You have to stay with it until it's completely over. Premature victory celebrations can lead to defeat.
@@DeanRockne Not so good. A FB after the blade will crimp the wood to the blade and if you haven't created kickback yet, you've been dang lucky. Before and after is OK on a router table, but on a table saw? Egads!!!
@@nonexman vertical FB, not horizontal. It presses the wood down to the table. It keeps the work piece from tipping up at the end of the cut when it passes the first vertical FB. It's a similar function as roller guides.
@@worstworkshop EPIC! I can't believe I've never heard that. Did you make it up? My in-laws are farmers and I've always thought farmers are "inventors in the wild": Lots of necessity, and usually not a lot of money.
Interesting video... When it first came available, I was one of the first to buy the 46" fence to use on my Dewalt 7491 table saw. That was Oct, 2023. At the time I was pretty new to woodworking g and didn't believe my skills were adequate to build a fence that would be straight, accurate, etc. After installing the fence I realized that the in-feed and out-feed (the green things) were no level with my the table saw table. I then removed the spacers that fit on the boo tom of the fence (designed to keep the fence from scraping on the table) and that helped but the supports were still higher than the table!! I was in contact wroth BOW and they were most interested in trying to understand the issue - I even sent a TON of photos for them to look at. Bottom line, the issue has never been resolved. I was told that my problem has only been reported by a handful of users!! The fence is a very cool add-on but, for me, requires that I am vigilant when using the in-feed and out-feed supports. Kinda disappointing!
That's a bummer. You mean you took off the bumpers on the bottom of the extension? You could try to build replacements. I know they have a right angle configuration, but I bet you could do it
I removed the bumpers on the bottom of the fence... it now sits directly on the table without them. I had to do that so the green things would be near level with the table.. and they are still just a bit higher than the table.. in other words the green supports are not level with the table.... hope that explains it better. - Thanks, Larry
Thins came through to my email but can;t find it the comments - "@ray6tw @EEEZSolutionS Adding some spacer between the fence and the supports might help. Sanding some off from the supports might work also." The green supports attach to the bottom of the fence with T-Bolts and there is no room to add a spacer.. or do you mean try sanding the top of the support? I'd love to send you a photo and get your feedback because I may be missing something - Thanks, Larry
I believe I understand what he's saying. If you took a belt sander to the top of those green supports and removed some material, you might be there. They probably wouldn't look as pretty, but better than having them sit on a shelf
Hey Thanks for weighing in..I'd thought about that but just couldn't bring myself to mess up the supports. But that may be the only way to resolve the issue... UGH!
Great video! At first, I thought you might be extremely biased against it, but your commentary at 11:42 truly nails it. One can certainly build such a fence system yourself. In fact, you can even buy the foam feather-board material from them and make your own feather boards. At the end of the day, you can also purchase aluminum extrusions with a multi-channel form-or, if you have enough money, save yourself a decent amount of time and just buy the system ready to go. I purchased the full system today, and I’m looking forward to setting it up. As a new woodworker, I know for certain that this will make me feel safer by ensuring there is adequate stability in the stock I’m processing.
Matt Outlaw! That's really kind of you. Thanks! I hope the guys at Bow Products feel the same. I really did almost buy their fence extension until I realized I could build something similar.
Thanks - your video confirms something I've been doing for years. That using a aluminum router table fence with featherboards makes for a nice safe and accurate table-saw fence. Something that can be clamped onto a cheap table-saw that has incurate T-slots. I've also noticed, as you did, this approach seems to reduce the chances of kickback.
I made one within hours of Matts video. It goes on my dewalt jobsite table saw. I used a spare fence and bolted 5/4 x 5 PVC to the fence and used 1x8 PVC for the infeeds and outfeeds. The infeeds and outfeeds are rabbeted to sit on the rack and pinion fence rails for added support. It is one of my favorite tool modifications ever. Ripping long stock on site is 10x easier and safer. I'm not sure how long I've used it but I think my video is probably pushing 8-9 months old now. Well worth the ~20-30 minutes to design and execute. Obviously it's just a bit more cumbersome to carry in the truck but it's worth it.
Much respect for catching your potential kickback scenario-though I'm sure haters will still hate. I get why you like making things rather than buying. It helps build skills and woodworking is just not an inexpensive hobby. I love the fence you built. I did a fence that slides over my Dewalt's fence, like a tenoning jig with t track because I had some leftover from something else. It's enough to hold a part for making tenons, to keep regular rip cuts held in place with a feather board mounted both before and after the blade, one in it's usual place in the miter slot in front of the blade on the left side. Two of the feather boards are shop made because I was practicing band saw cuts a long time ago and I'm too cheap to by the mag switch feather boards I really want. 😉Great job sir!
Thanks! Even after thirty years of woodworking, mistakes are inevitable. All we can do is create the safest environment possible. Hint: Nothing messes you up more than setting up a camera!
And, it exercises creativity while helping to develop skills that may not be used day to day projects. Especially true for someone like me - a total beginner.
A trim carpenter made a fence like this out of scrap when he was installing window trim on the huge windows in my old house about 25 years ago. He attached a scrap of plywood to the underside of the leading edge of the fence to serve as an infeed support. I kept the fence and used it for the remainder of the time I owned the house. I no longer need it because the high/low fence on my Harvey table saw can be slid forward to do the same thing. It's one of the reasons I bought the Harvey saw.
Good call, probably going to do something similar. $150+ just for the fence is hard to swallow. I did wind up buying the feather boards and those things are phenomenal.
The cheapest way to hold a board with down pressure is, 3/4in board same length held on the fence with clamps. The wood you're cutting slides under the clamped piece. 100 % effective and super simple
Wow, I really hate your workshop just like mine. Great job! Keep up the good work. My wife dislikes mine so much that she said the following and I quote, "Okay honey, just as long as there is no sawdust." I have a nice recliner behind a nice fan behind a nice treadmill. After I put in my cardio rehab required duties for the day I chill out with a nice spread of old tools from when I actually did make sawdust and new tools with dreams. These new tools include a ripping new vacuum to suck up any pesky sawdust particles that might get in the shop. I recognize them. Anyway, keep up the jive. Looks like your wife doesn't mind sawdust too much yet. I love to take a nap to the sound of the fan humming away merrily.
Man, I was about to criticise your technique then read the NOTE. Thank you for explaining why you were doing what you did, it scared the hell out of me. Watching and learning table saw do's and don'ts and I will not be using your bad technique.🤭Great fence!
Ah! I see what you're saying. Those aren't joints. They're just decorative. Except for a little plywood, the whole thing is made from a single 2x4. I appreciate the observation, but they're not supposed to look like tight joints.
@@worstworkshop Yeah, I assumed you did that on purpose. Sometimes mine come out like that, but not on purpose. Maybe because I had to many beers...or tequila shots....hehe
You left out of the group I’m in… We don’t have any time and we don’t have any money either. But seriously, I did consider that till I saw the $300 price tag. It is superior to even what you have as far as the BOW feather board inserts are concerned. They’re the best feather boards I’ve ever seen or used. But what you did is perfectly satisfactory and functional. Good job…
I like your idea for the fence extension. I have the same rip fence that you have, mine looks much worse and abused. I love old tools. And I appreciate your video
I have a Bow on my table saw fence for one reason. It is exactly 1" thick, so you can still use the scale on your saw and just subtract an inch to the measurements. I have some multichannel that I got years ago on sale (probably at Woodcraft), but never used it for this because it would negate your scale on your saw, being like 3/4" or even 5/8" thick.
That's a good point! My saw is so old that I can't really read the scale anymore, but I can see where it would be an issue. The extension is at least easily removable.
@@worstworkshop I did have a high 3/4" fence permanently attached to my old saw fence, as it did not have a scale on it. And I, like many I suspect, first saw it on @731 Woodworks presentation on it.
"It is exactly 1" thick, so you can still use the scale on your saw and just subtract an inch to the measurements." Assuming you're using inches and not millimetres.
@@PJRayment That is an assumption. My saw has inch markings on it, and not metric. It would be nice if Bow Products had a metric version, where it is exactly 2cm, or some other regular measurement.
I always thought about bulding something like that. You show that you don't have to buy every tool and accessory. Some can be easily build. Good job my friend. I build a high fence for resawing thick wood, since I don't have a band saw (which will certainly change in the future) which works similar to your fence.
@@worstworkshop even if we can, or could. Why don't build some accessories ourselves. It's not a crime to save money. And besides there's the fun in building such things.
You almost introduced your daughter to kick back. Seems the down feather board was too far back and the workpiece can be seen climbing up the blade during the cut. The push stick also provided zero down pressure. Otherwise good video.
You're not entirely wrong about that. The next day I brought her out to the shop again to show her how we should have done it, but that's not the footage that you saw. The saving grace was that the edge of the blade guard kept the workpiece from drifting up further. I also pushed her out of the line of fire, but edited that part out to avoid the lengthy explanation
For your dust collector, try one of the round metal vacuum tubes attached to the collector (don't get caught taking one off of the spouse's house vacuum). You can run it through your "height adapter " and slide it to the distance you need. You might also split your height adapter to have semicircles on each side with a small bolt and nut on bottom with a small gap and a bolt with a knob/wing nut on top to form a clamp to secure the metal vacuum tube. Just a thought.
I have the Bow extender and love it. One feature it has that yours may not (if so, I missed it) is that it is exactly, exactly 1" thick, so I can still use my table saw's built-in tape measure (hrm, not right term) just fine. That said, what I liked about your analysis was the historical run-down (agree, it's more like Bow got the idea from the DIY versions you featured) as well as the time-vs.-money grid (clearly, when I bought my Bow, I had more time than money). As far as your above-blade dust hood, seems like the issue is that you need to reference the blade (or table), not the fence. That is, you need to mount this on some sort of boom arm extension. It's perhaps possible and even preferable to mount the boom on your DIY fence extension, but then of course you'd have to change that every time you shifted the fence. The only shifting around you'd have to do with a blade/ table-referenced arm would be vertical.
@@worstworkshop Yeah, that dead-on, you-can-bank-on-it, exactly 1" offset of the Bow product is most def a key selling point. If I were to try to recreate what you have done I think I would have taken the time to be uber precise with my offset; 1" seems like a great way to be beefy enough to withstand years of (ab)use (and modifications?) while still being easy to incorporate that offset in one's fence-to-blade calculations. Me, I have my Bow on almost all the time and almost automatically build it into my thinking as I adjust my fence back and forth. Intuitive. Hm, you can't read the tape on your old saw? Does that mean you're primarily cutting referentially, or measuring each and every setup? Wonder if a replacement or after market tape would be in order. Or if your next project will be a DIY tape of some kind?
I think the question is flatness (and therefore precision) and ease. That's what you're paying for. Imho Bow fence does have a slight issue in that its T slot on face is a little high for what I'd have liked. So making your own does allow you to remedy that. BUT. Again, if you're doing something like a miter cut that flatness is kinda huge - if you have say a bow in your shop made fence it will come through as a separated miter.
Yep good stuff.. I’m so sick of these Woodworking channels telling you what to buy. Hey guys here a place where a dude does stuff WOW. By the way guys this guys skill is higher than he lets on. Awesome Video I’m subbed
@ I was just saying you are highly skilled but do these videos the way you do them shows humbleness and directs to inspire. Very selfless very appreciated.
There might be some smart wizz kid out there who could put this in a graph or someting, like when to DIY and when to buy. This extension is where the lines meet, some might DIY, some might buy. Great video!
It’s about what you need and want. What others offer may not suit your needs for the price. I’d rather build my own as it’s an experience that makes it more worthwhile. Love the old table saw. I’ve an old Delta that is almost like that but I need a fence like that so thank you for the timely video.
I was very, very interested in the Bow system. Almost pulled the trigger on it , but the price was a deterrent. I'm willing to give this DIY solution a try!
As someone who actually bought the big bow fence system (because if you're gonna buy a gimmick, you gotta buy the big one) I can tell you that it absolutely works and I love it. However, it is very expensive for what it is. I've already got a big out feed table and I haven't had need for it on my bandsaw yet but I honestly don't like the in-feed support system. It only supports material on one side and you can't just clamp it too the fence, you HAVE to use a leg attachment (that you have to make out of 2x4, which isn't a huge deal but I don't see why they couldn't just include some kind of telescoping leg for it or something. I will say this, I do really like their feather boards, that system works really well.
I use a piece of v-slot extrusion (from openbuilds) clamped onto the fence of my saw... (80mm x 20mm x 1500mm). I also use a piece of 20x60 on my miter gauge with some flip-stops that I made with a friend's benchtop mill, but you can buy those online, I just wanted to play with his mill to decide if I "need" one. (I do) I also made a magnetic fence for my bandsaw and drill press using a 500mm long piece of 80x20 and a couple of magnetic switches that attach with 3d printed brackets... you can also use the Chinese magnetic switches designed for dial indicators that they sell at those online places as well... I am using one-way roller stops on my saw, but I am planning on buying the replacement Bow EPDM foam feathers and 3d printing my own holders... though I may try cutting some feathers out myself... the foam is basically the same as the anti-fatigue matt squares, so if you have accesss to a laser or waterjet cutter, you just need to come up with the geometry. The extrusion I used has slots for the smaller metric style t-nuts, but for a little more money, you could use the 8020 brand extrusion that comes in imperial sizes (inches)... I think I spent about 80 dollars for all of the extrusion I used including shipping, but I was ordering a bunch of it at the same time for several other projects (like a 1/4 sheet cnc and a custom cnc laser) so I am not exactly sure of the shipping cost The nice thing about the expensive tools... (lasers, mills, ect) is that a lot of local "MakerSpace" places have them for people to use for very little money, and some are even free to use. For your blade guard, you could make a perpendicular slide-out that connects to your fence it could overhang to the other side of your saw and attach with a couple of carriage bolts and star knobs (plus washers and a couple of nuts to keep the bolts in place) I think your hose hanging off the other end of the slide-out would help balance it... but you would want to cantilever the support & attachment part on the other side of the fence... but it would really depend on how far you wanted your blade guard to extend. I have the mag switch mounting files up for free on my thingiverse page for anyone who is interested... my username there is also mightygrom.
I accomplished the same thing, by just attaching a 6-ft long, piece of 1040 extrusion to the face of my fence where the factory UHMW bolted on. And added a piece of 1030 extrusion to the top of the fence. I have four slots in the vertical face and four in the horizontal face.
I am old school. I started out with a 7.25 inch blade, no blade guards, or riving blades, and a board clamped on to the table for a fence. Over the years I have graduated to a 10 in blade, a fence that the mfg supplied and that is it. I have butchered a lot of wood doing with just that. I do enjoy making gadgets in the shop but mostly test them and then discard them as they are more trouble than they are worth!!
I remember many years ago while I was taking Scuba Diving classes. I asked the instructor which equipment I should buy. His simple answer was this, How much is your life worth? If you're a motorcycle rider, how much is your head worth? Do you buy the cheap, maybe it'll do the job, helmet? Or, do you spend the extra money and buy the one that cost more, but has a positive proven record? I feel it's the same with safety equipment for woodworking. How much are your eyes worth or your lungs worth? And, of course, your fingers. Now, I'm not saying this to bash homemade jigs, fences, accessories, or even home built tools. I've seen some pretty well built things. I'm just saying that it's a matter of the question, how much is it worth to you. Are you confident in your ability to build or should you buy? And, if you buy, how much is your life worth? Great video and thanks for sharing. I love all of your videos and learn something from most of them. God bless and keep'em comin'.
With two middle school daughters, it's more like cheap motorcycle helmet or no motorcycle helmet. For some people, the costs just aren't realistic. Thanks for your kind words!
I like the “more time than money or more money than time?” argument. When I was younger that point was moot. I had no money. Now that I’m older and have more of both, I can decide which one I want to spend. 😊
A word on gluing. Use a notched trowel to spread the glue. Look for the ones that are used for linoleum or vinyl tile. They also make them for applying plastic laminates like Formica. It's the polite way to spread glue.
One thing I don't need is another screwdriver. I must have enough screwdrivers for a half a dozen people. But that's not to say I wouldn't like a few more. I wouldn't mind a really nice precision set. I have precision screwdrivers but they're not the best. They still do the precision screwdriver thing whenever I happen to need a precision screwdriver though.
A while ago i saw what solution @mr.IQhomemadeDIY had for dust collection on his diy tablesaw. It was using plexiglas aswell, covered the blade all around it and was height adjustable. I imagine combining his idea with your fence's t-track can make for quite a good solution for dust extraction when narrow cutting. I can easily imagine making it horizontally adjustable given your fence's sturdiness and width
Others concede the issues I saw. Great video. Concept is sound. I don’t remember how long ago I clamped father boards to my fence, but it was probably in the 90s.
I'm new to feather boards and still learning how to best use them. I really don't like putting my fingers on the far side of the blade though, so I think they'll stay on the saw.
@@worstworkshop they are great when you get used to them. They provide consistent pressure as well as kick back protection improving cuts. Good on router table too.
I don't think I can do better at all. Neither can Norm Abram, Ron Paulk, or any of the other woodworkers that have been building similar things for as long as table saws have existed. But it is cheaper
This video got you a new subscriber. Bud, you seem like someone that would make a great neighbor. But I'm about to move and it will be for the last time. 😉
Whew! Nice video David, I can tell you put TONS of work into it! Very smooth and professional! I was kind of terrified at a few points - if I tried to bore a hole that big, I would get it twisted out of my hand - shouldn't that be clamped down first? I remember (45 years ago!!!) being competent with the table saw at high school woodshop. I never got a kickback though I did see one. The instructor reminded us to use these Pusher Sticks all the way through the cut. So they might get shredded a bit but we could always maintain pressure on piece against the fence. I'm amazed that about halfway through the cut, the piece is free floating. Is that normal these days? What keeps it from drifting slightly and initiating a kickback?
To address the part about it floating up, no. It's not normal. Little Bit was pushing on the wrong part of the board, and it could have caused a kickback. If it did, however, it wouldn't have caused injury, because she was out of the line of fire and her fingers were on the correct side of the blade. We talked about it, and even refilmed it, but I didn't like the footage. Should have probably included it anyway. *shrug* On the drill press, generally speaking, it should be clamped down or placed against a fence. The reason I didn't is just because I know my tools. You can get a feel for something like that, and it becomes a calculated risk. Your shop teacher taught you correctly though
@@worstworkshop yeah my dad and teachers were really strict. I followed suit though and they helped me get certified on gas and TIG welding and that was a hoot 🤓
I'm sure they work well (both theirs and yours), but having the feather boards on the fence - to me - would just get in the way. My push block sits on top of the board to hold it down and a heal to push. I do think the feather board on the table holding the work piece against the blade would be useful. I use a scrap piece lol
It's a different way of doing things. I'm also used to using a push block, but it takes away the possibility of blade guards too. I think this way is safer, but it's certainly an adjustment.
You can make a gripper type of push block by just using a 4x4 with sandpaper glued to the bottom. It doesn't matter if it gets cut because it's supposed to. I myself put the feather boards closer to the blade. I get them as close as I can without touching the blade. I tried making my own fence extension but when I clamp it to the fence it throws off the 90 degrees to the blade.
Nice build and for WAY less $. You do need some type of outfeed side feather-board to keep the workpiece down against the table & fence... perhaps a simple one made with a rollerblade wheel or two. Tilt it towards the fence to keep the cut piece from drifting into the back of the blade. There are a number of YT videos on how to make them. For the cost of the BOW, you're more than 2/3rds the way to getting the Jessem Clear-Cut TS which, IMHO, is better in both function and build. I absolutely love mine and use it all the time for every cut except the narrowest of them (
@@worstworkshop I first discovered the bow feather boards system from him as well, that's kinda why I was so excited for the fence system. I liked the feather boards a lot so I generally assumed the fence system would be just as good. I don't regret buying it now but I do wish I'd maybe tried to make something first. You mentioned all the extruded aluminum "predecessors", for lack of a better term, and that made me remember all those I've seen over the years. In fact, I'm currently looking for one of those pieces that's wide enough to make a router table out of. But I think these guys were definitely just kind of in the right place at the right time. And I appreciate the hell out of anyone who is willing to show people equal or better and less expensive alternatives to these kinds of things, it's so easy to fall down the "I have to have all of these professionally made gadgets to be a woodworker" rabbit hole, especially when you're just starting out and the price of things starts getting really prohibitive and, frankly, intimidating.
It is now common for the industry to make fancy versions of jigs and fixtures that woodworkers have been making and using for years. They then call them innovations, charge an arm and a leg and youtube goes gaga.
I completely understand the funds consideration but I have used slipped on fence devices before and the one downside that was a big downside to me was losing my fence ruler and having to dial on with something like tape measure. Also, do your self a favor and make a 45 degree where the extension meets table saw for dust.
@@OldZionsWoods-sl7zb I've seen it a lot in small shops that don't have the room for a dedicated router table. So it's nothing I invented. There's trade offs. I know a lot of folks like making those dedicated router tables. It's one of those woodworking projects. But when they're done I don't know how many like living with those things.
Among other things, you need a featherboard on the other side of (above) the workpiece. You might consider adding this to your blade guard design, for one thing. This would greatly assist in preventing kickback. I am curious if you considered the bowflex featherboards, as they arguably have a better design than classic featherboards. I'm open to argument on that, but it feels like the arguments for the Bowflex featherboard design are valid.
The Bow featherboards are significantly better, I'm sure. They're also about $40 each. You're right about needing another featherboard. I just didn't have it yet. It's coming.
To extend the blade cover use an extention tube from a vacuum secure it in a piece of larger pvc with a set screw to hold it there you will be able to slide it up and down and in and out nice work I like to problem solve thing
I thought of doing the same thing, I want a wood board to protect my fence anyway. But you are not using it properly, you need more feather boards, an in and out feed, that’s the whole point. I’ll use a thin epoxy instead of polyurethane. System 3 epoxy makes a soaking epoxy for repairing wood rot, it’s great for soaking into wood because of its longer cure time.
It actually depends on the feather board. The more flex they have, the more you can push them down. With these, I rest them flat on the board, then put a little pressure on them, and then tighten. The ones that give downward pressure mostly just hold the work down though. The side pressure does more of the work to prevent kickback.
Yeah I wouldn't cut that in one pass. I'd use a straight bit to get to depth then run the T bit to make the slot. At that it's still a fairly sketchy and heavy cut. Someone should make an intermediate roughing T slot bit.
@@a9ball1 that and circular saw blades remove material at a higher volume rate than router bits do anyways. Blades are just bigger than bits are. So they're going to take bigger bites.
I'm all about working cheap. This is one of the best things about your channel... showing new ways to save money... and, in a funny way! SO... why are you indorsing the most expensive screwdriver known to man? Next thing you know, you'll be using a Festool Domino... LOL
I'd like to have a Festool Domino. The patents start running out next year! So maybe it won't be a Festool Domino, domino machine. Or maybe Festool will have to reduce their prices to compete in an open market. Because that's happening real soon now. I expect there to be ones available for a quarter the price.
I'm not suggesting it as a tool for the working man. It's closer to an executive toy that is also a very effective screwdriver. It's kinda like the MetMo Cube, which serves no practical purpose at all, but is still really cool
@@PaleRider559 you could but dominoes are faster and easier to use. Which is why pros love them. The efficiency is unparalleled. You're trading money for time. Which if you use a domino enough turns out to be an excellent deal. An amateur would never see a return though. Personally I don't even care for the joint a domino produces. But I'm not a big fan of pocket holes either and I use those. There's places where I simply don't care.
Would be curious to know what plastic u would put on top instead of varnishing with polyethylene (sorry probably the wrong phrasing) and yeah I completely agree nothing new under the sun. I have been clamping feather boards to my fence for years. Though the high fence idea is nice. Might also work well with knock off dovetail jigs which might be easier to route out than t track.
Wanted to BOW fence but not sure i want to pay for it. I like the 1 inch thickness because I use the tape on my saw I don't keep a measuring tape near.
It’s made for a contractor saw. If you have a cabinet saw it is too short. I use mine for certain applications especially ripping large plywood sections.
I think that's the best use case, but they actually have it in three lengths, up to 46". I think they used to have one that was 52" as well, but nobody needs that.
I was going to order the bow system until i saw the price. Dont get me wrong, its pretty awesome and a small business but over $100 for 50 cents in aluminum and some plastic and foam bits is just not in my budget. So i built one too lol
Love the video. Got me to subscribe. Do you have the plans for your router table? I really want one to mount my palm router to but much like you I hate spending money when I can build or 3D print something.
It was improvised, but I can tell you what I did. You basically make a small stool or table and utilize the holes in your router's base to bolt it into the top. From there, I clamped on a piece of scrap to use as a fence. If you like, you can add some miter slots if you like.
@@worstworkshop yeah it did. I've seen plans for them. The quick shot in this video looked well built so I thought maybe you had made one. All good Thank you! Keep the videos coming!
My table saw dust collector is affixed to the blade guard. What if you put a (excuse naming) couple of rod guides on to of the fence and suspend the collection dome over the blade (with extra front and back area)? The dome would "remain" over the blades, no matter where the fence is as long as you adjust the overhang.
You bought feather boards!?!! lol. I did the same with a crosscut sled “kit” that came with all the t bolts and knobs, worth it to not source them all individually in my case.
NOTE: I made a couple of cuts in this video by not applying downward pressure through the entire table saw cut. The proper technique would be to put the downward feather board as close as possible to the blade, and add another right after the blade. After thirty years of woodworking, I've never really used feather boards for downward pressure, always opting for a push block instead. Unfortunately, with a setup like this, a push block doesn't always work. That's fine, as long as you use a good push stick and the feather boards are positioned correctly.
In the end, nobody died, and I hope you can learn from my mistakes. Thanks for all the concern.
@@worstworkshop I like how you do it kinda sketch… it’s a form of humbleness which most of us can’t do.
Thanks for acknowledging that the feather boards should be close to the blade. (I was about to make that very comment.)
@ Yep! I goofed. Always learning.
@ Thanks!
Finally! A woodworker on TH-cam who understands MY budget!
I'm happy when there's any budget at all!
@@worstworkshop Very much my situation. Most of what I build comes from stock I salvage. My main source of lumber is broken Ikea beds.
Did you check the price of the pocket driver? Good video though!
I'm not sure that featherboard is doing anything that far back from the blade. The point of a featherboard is to apply pressure close to the blade so the workpiece stays controlled there. I use two push sticks when I rip on the table saw, one to push down and one to push forward. That gets it done for me. When I use a featherboard it is just to make sure the work is pushed up against the fence before the blade.
You're right. I'm new to feather boards, and I was doing it wrong. Thanks for pointing it out!
I agree. If I'm doing a narrow rip, I'll use two, fore and aft of the blade. This keeps it pressed down through the cut, even as the center of gravity shifts at the end.
@@DeanRockne I just use a lead in featherboard. I count on the follow through to clear the end of a cut. I think the vast majority of incidents happen towards the end of operations when people mistakenly think they're done. You have to stay with it until it's completely over. Premature victory celebrations can lead to defeat.
@@DeanRockne Not so good. A FB after the blade will crimp the wood to the blade and if you haven't created kickback yet, you've been dang lucky. Before and after is OK on a router table, but on a table saw? Egads!!!
@@nonexman vertical FB, not horizontal. It presses the wood down to the table. It keeps the work piece from tipping up at the end of the cut when it passes the first vertical FB. It's a similar function as roller guides.
You had me at not spending a lot of money! 🤣 Awesome Idea to use up the scrap wood we already have.
If necessity is the mother of invention, poverty is the father
@@worstworkshop 🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣 very true.
@@worstworkshop EPIC! I can't believe I've never heard that. Did you make it up? My in-laws are farmers and I've always thought farmers are "inventors in the wild": Lots of necessity, and usually not a lot of money.
@@daveb7408 I think so? It's true though, isn't it?
“Shut up it works” classic my friend love it
Glad you enjoyed the video!
Daddy, shut up it works.
Interesting video... When it first came available, I was one of the first to buy the 46" fence to use on my Dewalt 7491 table saw. That was Oct, 2023. At the time I was pretty new to woodworking g and didn't believe my skills were adequate to build a fence that would be straight, accurate, etc. After installing the fence I realized that the in-feed and out-feed (the green things) were no level with my the table saw table. I then removed the spacers that fit on the boo tom of the fence (designed to keep the fence from scraping on the table) and that helped but the supports were still higher than the table!! I was in contact wroth BOW and they were most interested in trying to understand the issue - I even sent a TON of photos for them to look at. Bottom line, the issue has never been resolved. I was told that my problem has only been reported by a handful of users!! The fence is a very cool add-on but, for me, requires that I am vigilant when using the in-feed and out-feed supports. Kinda disappointing!
That's a bummer. You mean you took off the bumpers on the bottom of the extension? You could try to build replacements. I know they have a right angle configuration, but I bet you could do it
I removed the bumpers on the bottom of the fence... it now sits directly on the table without them. I had to do that so the green things would be near level with the table.. and they are still just a bit higher than the table.. in other words the green supports are not level with the table.... hope that explains it better. - Thanks, Larry
Thins came through to my email but can;t find it the comments - "@ray6tw
@EEEZSolutionS Adding some spacer between the fence and the supports might help. Sanding some off from the supports might work also."
The green supports attach to the bottom of the fence with T-Bolts and there is no room to add a spacer.. or do you mean try sanding the top of the support? I'd love to send you a photo and get your feedback because I may be missing something - Thanks, Larry
I believe I understand what he's saying. If you took a belt sander to the top of those green supports and removed some material, you might be there. They probably wouldn't look as pretty, but better than having them sit on a shelf
Hey Thanks for weighing in..I'd thought about that but just couldn't bring myself to mess up the supports. But that may be the only way to resolve the issue... UGH!
The logic is sound but I have no money or time. 😂 the song is super fun. I am looking forward to you singing it. Great video 😊
That would be fun!
Man, I like this guy, finally a guy that doesn’t have a pro shop that uses what he has and his ingenuity to get shit done.
Thank you, friend!
But he does have a $130 screwdriver
Great video! At first, I thought you might be extremely biased against it, but your commentary at 11:42 truly nails it. One can certainly build such a fence system yourself. In fact, you can even buy the foam feather-board material from them and make your own feather boards. At the end of the day, you can also purchase aluminum extrusions with a multi-channel form-or, if you have enough money, save yourself a decent amount of time and just buy the system ready to go. I purchased the full system today, and I’m looking forward to setting it up. As a new woodworker, I know for certain that this will make me feel safer by ensuring there is adequate stability in the stock I’m processing.
Thanks a lot! I hope the project goes well for you
Love my favorite anti-TH-cam woodworker TH-camr woodworker.
Thank you so much!
Great job! Love the DIY fence.
Matt Outlaw! That's really kind of you. Thanks! I hope the guys at Bow Products feel the same. I really did almost buy their fence extension until I realized I could build something similar.
And everyone was civil about it! No vince vcg vs Clint tool review zone 👏
@@MattHmm-rq6dn It's because Matt is one of the nicest guys on TH-cam, and I have nothing but respect for him!
I appreciate your bringing all the different designs together in one video,
Thanks! That was fun to do
Love the video. Look forward to your unique insights and positive approach each time.
Thank you so much!
I look forward to new videos to Daddy 😡
Thanks - your video confirms something I've been doing for years.
That using a aluminum router table fence with featherboards makes for a nice safe and accurate table-saw fence.
Something that can be clamped onto a cheap table-saw that has incurate T-slots.
I've also noticed, as you did, this approach seems to reduce the chances of kickback.
You'd certainly think so. Thanks for your comment!
I made one within hours of Matts video. It goes on my dewalt jobsite table saw. I used a spare fence and bolted 5/4 x 5 PVC to the fence and used 1x8 PVC for the infeeds and outfeeds. The infeeds and outfeeds are rabbeted to sit on the rack and pinion fence rails for added support. It is one of my favorite tool modifications ever. Ripping long stock on site is 10x easier and safer. I'm not sure how long I've used it but I think my video is probably pushing 8-9 months old now. Well worth the ~20-30 minutes to design and execute. Obviously it's just a bit more cumbersome to carry in the truck but it's worth it.
Yours is great! I love the trash bag mod you did around the same time too
@@worstworkshop I really appreciate that sir and thank you for taking the time to check it out!
Much respect for catching your potential kickback scenario-though I'm sure haters will still hate. I get why you like making things rather than buying. It helps build skills and woodworking is just not an inexpensive hobby. I love the fence you built. I did a fence that slides over my Dewalt's fence, like a tenoning jig with t track because I had some leftover from something else. It's enough to hold a part for making tenons, to keep regular rip cuts held in place with a feather board mounted both before and after the blade, one in it's usual place in the miter slot in front of the blade on the left side. Two of the feather boards are shop made because I was practicing band saw cuts a long time ago and I'm too cheap to by the mag switch feather boards I really want. 😉Great job sir!
Thanks! Even after thirty years of woodworking, mistakes are inevitable. All we can do is create the safest environment possible. Hint: Nothing messes you up more than setting up a camera!
And, it exercises creativity while helping to develop skills that may not be used day to day projects. Especially true for someone like me - a total beginner.
Everyone likes a fancy new tool but drooling is free 🤤. Thay being said fun/easy design and tasteful said and done! 👏
Wisely said! And thank you
Nicely done! Many skills can be gained from building our own tools, upgrades, and jigs! It's great to have options!
Very true!
A trim carpenter made a fence like this out of scrap when he was installing window trim on the huge windows in my old house about 25 years ago. He attached a scrap of plywood to the underside of the leading edge of the fence to serve as an infeed support. I kept the fence and used it for the remainder of the time I owned the house. I no longer need it because the high/low fence on my Harvey table saw can be slid forward to do the same thing. It's one of the reasons I bought the Harvey saw.
Those Harvey saws are nice!
Good call, probably going to do something similar. $150+ just for the fence is hard to swallow.
I did wind up buying the feather boards and those things are phenomenal.
I want some. I may just use a 3D printer and buy the inserts though...
The cheapest way to hold a board with down pressure is, 3/4in board same length held on the fence with clamps. The wood you're cutting slides under the clamped piece. 100 % effective and super simple
That'll do the job!
Wow, I really hate your workshop just like mine. Great job! Keep up the good work. My wife dislikes mine so much that she said the following and I quote, "Okay honey, just as long as there is no sawdust." I have a nice recliner behind a nice fan behind a nice treadmill. After I put in my cardio rehab required duties for the day I chill out with a nice spread of old tools from when I actually did make sawdust and new tools with dreams. These new tools include a ripping new vacuum to suck up any pesky sawdust particles that might get in the shop. I recognize them. Anyway, keep up the jive. Looks like your wife doesn't mind sawdust too much yet. I love to take a nap to the sound of the fan humming away merrily.
Sounds like a wonderfully awful place, just like mine. :)
Great job it turned out great and your daughter did a great job with her first cut on a table saw 👏👏👏
Thanks so much!
Man, I was about to criticise your technique then read the NOTE. Thank you for explaining why you were doing what you did, it scared the hell out of me. Watching and learning table saw do's and don'ts and I will not be using your bad technique.🤭Great fence!
I'm glad you saw that. Thanks!
Those doors behind you look awesome. I love how all the joints are tight and square.
Thanks! Do you mean the cabinet doors?
@@worstworkshop I guess thos are cabinet doors. Maybe you made them that way on purpose, but there is not 1 tight joint on the entire cabinet door.
Ah! I see what you're saying. Those aren't joints. They're just decorative. Except for a little plywood, the whole thing is made from a single 2x4. I appreciate the observation, but they're not supposed to look like tight joints.
@@worstworkshop Yeah, I assumed you did that on purpose. Sometimes mine come out like that, but not on purpose. Maybe because I had to many beers...or tequila shots....hehe
As long as you leave the workshop with all your fingers attached!
Excellent work, man! It turned out great! 😃
Nicely done!!!
Stay safe there with your family! 🖖😊
Thank you very much!
Ingenuity on a budget. Great job, Worsty!
Thanks Brett!
...might be one of the most dangerous cuts I've seen on TH-cam
Well, at least I'm winning at something
Woodpecker now makes a fence system, too. And for Woodpecker it's a steal. I've also seen versions from "My Growth Rings", and Nick Engler.
Awesome! I'll have to check that out
You left out of the group I’m in… We don’t have any time and we don’t have any money either. But seriously, I did consider that till I saw the $300 price tag. It is superior to even what you have as far as the BOW feather board inserts are concerned. They’re the best feather boards I’ve ever seen or used. But what you did is perfectly satisfactory and functional. Good job…
I agree with all that. And thank you.
really like the "table extensions" on the fence; i might look at doing something similar. Cheers!
I like your idea for the fence extension. I have the same rip fence that you have, mine looks much worse and abused. I love old tools. And I appreciate your video
Thanks a lot!
I have a Bow on my table saw fence for one reason. It is exactly 1" thick, so you can still use the scale on your saw and just subtract an inch to the measurements. I have some multichannel that I got years ago on sale (probably at Woodcraft), but never used it for this because it would negate your scale on your saw, being like 3/4" or even 5/8" thick.
That's a good point! My saw is so old that I can't really read the scale anymore, but I can see where it would be an issue. The extension is at least easily removable.
@@worstworkshop I did have a high 3/4" fence permanently attached to my old saw fence, as it did not have a scale on it. And I, like many I suspect, first saw it on @731 Woodworks presentation on it.
"It is exactly 1" thick, so you can still use the scale on your saw and just subtract an inch to the measurements."
Assuming you're using inches and not millimetres.
@@PJRayment That is an assumption. My saw has inch markings on it, and not metric. It would be nice if Bow Products had a metric version, where it is exactly 2cm, or some other regular measurement.
I always thought about bulding something like that. You show that you don't have to buy every tool and accessory. Some can be easily build. Good job my friend. I build a high fence for resawing thick wood, since I don't have a band saw (which will certainly change in the future) which works similar to your fence.
I don't fault the people that would rather just spend the money. That's fine. But we can't all do that.
@@worstworkshop even if we can, or could. Why don't build some accessories ourselves. It's not a crime to save money. And besides there's the fun in building such things.
You almost introduced your daughter to kick back. Seems the down feather board was too far back and the workpiece can be seen climbing up the blade during the cut. The push stick also provided zero down pressure. Otherwise good video.
You're not entirely wrong about that. The next day I brought her out to the shop again to show her how we should have done it, but that's not the footage that you saw. The saving grace was that the edge of the blade guard kept the workpiece from drifting up further. I also pushed her out of the line of fire, but edited that part out to avoid the lengthy explanation
@@worstworkshop i was going to mention the same thing....Any way to add a splitter to your tablesaw? This would help with kickback as well.
It has one already!
@@worstworkshop nice..guess I missed it.
For your dust collector, try one of the round metal vacuum tubes attached to the collector (don't get caught taking one off of the spouse's house vacuum). You can run it through your "height adapter " and slide it to the distance you need. You might also split your height adapter to have semicircles on each side with a small bolt and nut on bottom with a small gap and a bolt with a knob/wing nut on top to form a clamp to secure the metal vacuum tube. Just a thought.
I thought about something like that. I'd have to build a support system for it too. I might try it at some point. Thanks!
I have the Bow extender and love it. One feature it has that yours may not (if so, I missed it) is that it is exactly, exactly 1" thick, so I can still use my table saw's built-in tape measure (hrm, not right term) just fine. That said, what I liked about your analysis was the historical run-down (agree, it's more like Bow got the idea from the DIY versions you featured) as well as the time-vs.-money grid (clearly, when I bought my Bow, I had more time than money). As far as your above-blade dust hood, seems like the issue is that you need to reference the blade (or table), not the fence. That is, you need to mount this on some sort of boom arm extension. It's perhaps possible and even preferable to mount the boom on your DIY fence extension, but then of course you'd have to change that every time you shifted the fence. The only shifting around you'd have to do with a blade/ table-referenced arm would be vertical.
Mine definitely messes up the measuring, but you can't read the tape on my old saw anyway. Thanks for the ideas on the blade guard!
@@worstworkshop Yeah, that dead-on, you-can-bank-on-it, exactly 1" offset of the Bow product is most def a key selling point. If I were to try to recreate what you have done I think I would have taken the time to be uber precise with my offset; 1" seems like a great way to be beefy enough to withstand years of (ab)use (and modifications?) while still being easy to incorporate that offset in one's fence-to-blade calculations. Me, I have my Bow on almost all the time and almost automatically build it into my thinking as I adjust my fence back and forth. Intuitive.
Hm, you can't read the tape on your old saw? Does that mean you're primarily cutting referentially, or measuring each and every setup? Wonder if a replacement or after market tape would be in order. Or if your next project will be a DIY tape of some kind?
I think the question is flatness (and therefore precision) and ease. That's what you're paying for. Imho Bow fence does have a slight issue in that its T slot on face is a little high for what I'd have liked. So making your own does allow you to remedy that. BUT. Again, if you're doing something like a miter cut that flatness is kinda huge - if you have say a bow in your shop made fence it will come through as a separated miter.
That's true, but plywood tends to be pretty stable, and it stays flush clamped against the fence. So far flatness hasn't been an issue
Wow! 100k views in a month! Way to go!!
Oh snap! I hadn't been watching it. That's awesome!!
Yep good stuff.. I’m so sick of these Woodworking channels telling you what to buy.
Hey guys here a place where a dude does stuff WOW.
By the way guys this guys skill is higher than he lets on.
Awesome Video I’m subbed
I appreciate the kind words! Thanks for watching!
@ I was just saying you are highly skilled but do these videos the way you do them shows humbleness and directs to inspire. Very selfless very appreciated.
@@worstworkshop I built one on my Channel from scrap materials left from a job. PLS take a look It’s a short!
Yeah I have the Bow fence and it’s awesome. Great job on the fence!
Thanks! I hope you enjoy the Bow fence too!
Thank you. I have been considering just this idea. I have time and some plywood scraps, more than I have money, especially the time part.
Glad it was helpful!
Great to see you. This video’s stats are killing it. TON of comments and lots of views. Hope all is well with the girls.
Thanks so much! Everything is great. How you're well too
There might be some smart wizz kid out there who could put this in a graph or someting, like when to DIY and when to buy. This extension is where the lines meet, some might DIY, some might buy.
Great video!
Thanks!
Really like what you made here bud. Love the dust hood too. I am in the process of another shot at this one. Not free but somewhere in between.
Can't wait to see it!
It’s about what you need and want. What others offer may not suit your needs for the price. I’d rather build my own as it’s an experience that makes it more worthwhile. Love the old table saw. I’ve an old Delta that is almost like that but I need a fence like that so thank you for the timely video.
I absolutely agree!
I was very, very interested in the Bow system. Almost pulled the trigger on it , but the price was a deterrent.
I'm willing to give this DIY solution a try!
I hope it works out!
It's worth it if you've got a jobsite saw. You can also put it on other things that have fences. Like a bandsaw, etc
As someone who actually bought the big bow fence system (because if you're gonna buy a gimmick, you gotta buy the big one) I can tell you that it absolutely works and I love it. However, it is very expensive for what it is. I've already got a big out feed table and I haven't had need for it on my bandsaw yet but I honestly don't like the in-feed support system. It only supports material on one side and you can't just clamp it too the fence, you HAVE to use a leg attachment (that you have to make out of 2x4, which isn't a huge deal but I don't see why they couldn't just include some kind of telescoping leg for it or something.
I will say this, I do really like their feather boards, that system works really well.
Thanks for sharing your experience with it!
I use a piece of v-slot extrusion (from openbuilds) clamped onto the fence of my saw... (80mm x 20mm x 1500mm). I also use a piece of 20x60 on my miter gauge with some flip-stops that I made with a friend's benchtop mill, but you can buy those online, I just wanted to play with his mill to decide if I "need" one. (I do) I also made a magnetic fence for my bandsaw and drill press using a 500mm long piece of 80x20 and a couple of magnetic switches that attach with 3d printed brackets... you can also use the Chinese magnetic switches designed for dial indicators that they sell at those online places as well... I am using one-way roller stops on my saw, but I am planning on buying the replacement Bow EPDM foam feathers and 3d printing my own holders... though I may try cutting some feathers out myself... the foam is basically the same as the anti-fatigue matt squares, so if you have accesss to a laser or waterjet cutter, you just need to come up with the geometry. The extrusion I used has slots for the smaller metric style t-nuts, but for a little more money, you could use the 8020 brand extrusion that comes in imperial sizes (inches)... I think I spent about 80 dollars for all of the extrusion I used including shipping, but I was ordering a bunch of it at the same time for several other projects (like a 1/4 sheet cnc and a custom cnc laser) so I am not exactly sure of the shipping cost
The nice thing about the expensive tools... (lasers, mills, ect) is that a lot of local "MakerSpace" places have them for people to use for very little money, and some are even free to use.
For your blade guard, you could make a perpendicular slide-out that connects to your fence it could overhang to the other side of your saw and attach with a couple of carriage bolts and star knobs (plus washers and a couple of nuts to keep the bolts in place) I think your hose hanging off the other end of the slide-out would help balance it... but you would want to cantilever the support & attachment part on the other side of the fence... but it would really depend on how far you wanted your blade guard to extend.
I have the mag switch mounting files up for free on my thingiverse page for anyone who is interested... my username there is also mightygrom.
You're miles ahead of me! I like your guard ideas though. It would need counterbalance, but that could be achieved
LOL! For someone who doesn't like to spend money, he's hawking a pretty expensive screwdriver
I know! Can you believe that guy??
Lol! I love the router table! I have one almost identical to it. It's not my only one though...I just needed another for one specific cut.
Someday I'll get something better, but it does work!
I accomplished the same thing, by just attaching a 6-ft long, piece of 1040 extrusion to the face of my fence where the factory UHMW bolted on. And added a piece of 1030 extrusion to the top of the fence. I have four slots in the vertical face and four in the horizontal face.
That's a great solution!
I am old school. I started out with a 7.25 inch blade, no blade guards, or riving blades, and a board clamped on to the table for a fence. Over the years I have graduated to a 10 in blade, a fence that the mfg supplied and that is it. I have butchered a lot of wood doing with just that. I do enjoy making gadgets in the shop but mostly test them and then discard them as they are more trouble than they are worth!!
Been there, done that!
I remember many years ago while I was taking Scuba Diving classes. I asked the instructor which equipment I should buy. His simple answer was this, How much is your life worth? If you're a motorcycle rider, how much is your head worth? Do you buy the cheap, maybe it'll do the job, helmet? Or, do you spend the extra money and buy the one that cost more, but has a positive proven record? I feel it's the same with safety equipment for woodworking. How much are your eyes worth or your lungs worth? And, of course, your fingers. Now, I'm not saying this to bash homemade jigs, fences, accessories, or even home built tools. I've seen some pretty well built things. I'm just saying that it's a matter of the question, how much is it worth to you. Are you confident in your ability to build or should you buy? And, if you buy, how much is your life worth? Great video and thanks for sharing. I love all of your videos and learn something from most of them. God bless and keep'em comin'.
With two middle school daughters, it's more like cheap motorcycle helmet or no motorcycle helmet. For some people, the costs just aren't realistic. Thanks for your kind words!
Another great video! Thanks. Oh, and thanks a lot for that song. It's the worst...
Is it stuck in your head too?
Just subscribed. Love this idea
Thank you!
I like the “more time than money or more money than time?” argument. When I was younger that point was moot. I had no money. Now that I’m older and have more of both, I can decide which one I want to spend. 😊
That's a great place to be. With two daughters, money gets spent really quickly around here.
Yep, I’ve been using just such a fence with rear support on my Shopsmith for over 30 years.
Hey, I know you! Thanks for watching!
@@worstworkshopYou hit the nail on the head with this one.
Wanted to mention the feather board location but you got your fair share of it already 😊 thanks for the bid not a bad idea ( except the FB location)
Yeah. I'm learning!
A word on gluing. Use a notched trowel to spread the glue. Look for the ones that are used for linoleum or vinyl tile. They also make them for applying plastic laminates like Formica. It's the polite way to spread glue.
Thanks for the tip!
I can't even get on youtube anymore without somebody else telling me about the..........." Metmo Screwdriver"
Ha!
One thing I don't need is another screwdriver. I must have enough screwdrivers for a half a dozen people. But that's not to say I wouldn't like a few more. I wouldn't mind a really nice precision set. I have precision screwdrivers but they're not the best. They still do the precision screwdriver thing whenever I happen to need a precision screwdriver though.
I have 2 Baumann pocket screwdrivers. Would not trade them for anything. You are absolutely correct it was around before their product was released.
Seriously?? What a collector's item!
@@worstworkshop both from same garage sale
I don’t like the idea of pushing behind the work piece and not being able to follow through.
You just need a longer push stick. Another feather board behind the blade would help too
Indeed it's all in the follow through.
The whole process was wrong and potentially very dangerous.
Great video. Honest and valuable opinions!
Thanks!
A while ago i saw what solution @mr.IQhomemadeDIY had for dust collection on his diy tablesaw. It was using plexiglas aswell, covered the blade all around it and was height adjustable. I imagine combining his idea with your fence's t-track can make for quite a good solution for dust extraction when narrow cutting. I can easily imagine making it horizontally adjustable given your fence's sturdiness and width
I'll look out for that video. Thanks!
Great video. Thank you!
Glad you enjoyed it!
Others concede the issues I saw. Great video. Concept is sound. I don’t remember how long ago I clamped father boards to my fence, but it was probably in the 90s.
I'm new to feather boards and still learning how to best use them. I really don't like putting my fingers on the far side of the blade though, so I think they'll stay on the saw.
@@worstworkshop they are great when you get used to them. They provide consistent pressure as well as kick back protection improving cuts. Good on router table too.
@@ChrisStCyr-gnt7 I think I'm committed to them at this point. Big upside for just a little setup
That Bow xt unit is no joke. Worth every single penny. don't even try to fool yourself. If you think you can do better... you can't.
I don't think I can do better at all. Neither can Norm Abram, Ron Paulk, or any of the other woodworkers that have been building similar things for as long as table saws have existed. But it is cheaper
This video got you a new subscriber. Bud, you seem like someone that would make a great neighbor. But I'm about to move and it will be for the last time. 😉
I appreciate that!
9:35 - connect the shroud to a rigid tube that slides left and right. Connect the end of the tube to vacuum hose.
Thanks for the suggestion!
Whew! Nice video David, I can tell you put TONS of work into it! Very smooth and professional!
I was kind of terrified at a few points - if I tried to bore a hole that big, I would get it twisted out of my hand - shouldn't that be clamped down first? I remember (45 years ago!!!) being competent with the table saw at high school woodshop. I never got a kickback though I did see one. The instructor reminded us to use these Pusher Sticks all the way through the cut. So they might get shredded a bit but we could always maintain pressure on piece against the fence. I'm amazed that about halfway through the cut, the piece is free floating. Is that normal these days? What keeps it from drifting slightly and initiating a kickback?
To address the part about it floating up, no. It's not normal. Little Bit was pushing on the wrong part of the board, and it could have caused a kickback. If it did, however, it wouldn't have caused injury, because she was out of the line of fire and her fingers were on the correct side of the blade. We talked about it, and even refilmed it, but I didn't like the footage. Should have probably included it anyway. *shrug*
On the drill press, generally speaking, it should be clamped down or placed against a fence. The reason I didn't is just because I know my tools. You can get a feel for something like that, and it becomes a calculated risk. Your shop teacher taught you correctly though
@@worstworkshop yeah my dad and teachers were really strict. I followed suit though and they helped me get certified on gas and TIG welding and that was a hoot 🤓
Will be looking at my collection of extrusions for a difference reason now.
Plywood is a lot more forgiving if it ever hit the blade somehow . I like your idea thank you
For sure!
I'm sure they work well (both theirs and yours), but having the feather boards on the fence - to me - would just get in the way. My push block sits on top of the board to hold it down and a heal to push. I do think the feather board on the table holding the work piece against the blade would be useful. I use a scrap piece lol
It's a different way of doing things. I'm also used to using a push block, but it takes away the possibility of blade guards too. I think this way is safer, but it's certainly an adjustment.
You can make a gripper type of push block by just using a 4x4 with sandpaper glued to the bottom. It doesn't matter if it gets cut because it's supposed to.
I myself put the feather boards closer to the blade. I get them as close as I can without touching the blade.
I tried making my own fence extension but when I clamp it to the fence it throws off the 90 degrees to the blade.
Nice build and for WAY less $. You do need some type of outfeed side feather-board to keep the workpiece down against the table & fence... perhaps a simple one made with a rollerblade wheel or two. Tilt it towards the fence to keep the cut piece from drifting into the back of the blade. There are a number of YT videos on how to make them.
For the cost of the BOW, you're more than 2/3rds the way to getting the Jessem Clear-Cut TS which, IMHO, is better in both function and build. I absolutely love mine and use it all the time for every cut except the narrowest of them (
Another feather board is coming. I just didn't have it when I filmed. I'd love to get my hands on that Jessem system at some point!
It's also worth mentioning, I saw it first on Stumpy Nubs Woodworking Journal 😁
His was about the same time. I watch all his videos
@@worstworkshop I first discovered the bow feather boards system from him as well, that's kinda why I was so excited for the fence system. I liked the feather boards a lot so I generally assumed the fence system would be just as good. I don't regret buying it now but I do wish I'd maybe tried to make something first. You mentioned all the extruded aluminum "predecessors", for lack of a better term, and that made me remember all those I've seen over the years. In fact, I'm currently looking for one of those pieces that's wide enough to make a router table out of. But I think these guys were definitely just kind of in the right place at the right time. And I appreciate the hell out of anyone who is willing to show people equal or better and less expensive alternatives to these kinds of things, it's so easy to fall down the "I have to have all of these professionally made gadgets to be a woodworker" rabbit hole, especially when you're just starting out and the price of things starts getting really prohibitive and, frankly, intimidating.
It is now common for the industry to make fancy versions of jigs and fixtures that woodworkers have been making and using for years. They then call them innovations, charge an arm and a leg and youtube goes gaga.
Too true
I completely understand the funds consideration but I have used slipped on fence devices before and the one downside that was a big downside to me was losing my fence ruler and having to dial on with something like tape measure. Also, do your self a favor and make a 45 degree where the extension meets table saw for dust.
Good thought!
This is genius
Thank you!
I wish I had a router table as high tech as yours. You should see what I use 😮😊
Oh no...I'm scared.
Yeah I cut a hole in a wing on my table saw. Then I share the fence between the saw and the router table.
@@1pcfred that is an interesting solution. I'll have to give that some thought
@@OldZionsWoods-sl7zb I've seen it a lot in small shops that don't have the room for a dedicated router table. So it's nothing I invented. There's trade offs. I know a lot of folks like making those dedicated router tables. It's one of those woodworking projects. But when they're done I don't know how many like living with those things.
Among other things, you need a featherboard on the other side of (above) the workpiece. You might consider adding this to your blade guard design, for one thing. This would greatly assist in preventing kickback.
I am curious if you considered the bowflex featherboards, as they arguably have a better design than classic featherboards. I'm open to argument on that, but it feels like the arguments for the Bowflex featherboard design are valid.
The Bow featherboards are significantly better, I'm sure. They're also about $40 each. You're right about needing another featherboard. I just didn't have it yet. It's coming.
To extend the blade cover use an extention tube from a vacuum secure it in a piece of larger pvc with a set screw to hold it there you will be able to slide it up and down and in and out nice work I like to problem solve thing
I tried that but had trouble. Haven't given up on the idea though. Thanks for your input,!
Have you thought about a boom arm to hold the dust collector above the blade?
Yes. Someone suggested one of those desktop boom arms you use for mic stands, but I don't know about that. I'm still thinking through it
Good job
Thank you, my friend!
I thought of doing the same thing, I want a wood board to protect my fence anyway.
But you are not using it properly, you need more feather boards, an in and out feed, that’s the whole point. I’ll use a thin epoxy instead of polyurethane. System 3 epoxy makes a soaking epoxy for repairing wood rot, it’s great for soaking into wood because of its longer cure time.
Yep. You're right. I had never worked with feather boards before. I know now. Thanks for your concern!
I think you also want the featherboards closer to the blade
It actually depends on the feather board. The more flex they have, the more you can push them down. With these, I rest them flat on the board, then put a little pressure on them, and then tighten. The ones that give downward pressure mostly just hold the work down though. The side pressure does more of the work to prevent kickback.
Yeah, let’s give it a year or two to dry, swell, expand and contract.
entertaining and informative!
Thank you!
Wow man, be careful with those cheap Chinese router bits off Amazon. I’ve seen them fail spectacularly. Good video man, right up my alley 👆
Thanks! I generally buy the 1/2" shank because
I don't trust the smaller ones
Yeah I wouldn't cut that in one pass. I'd use a straight bit to get to depth then run the T bit to make the slot. At that it's still a fairly sketchy and heavy cut. Someone should make an intermediate roughing T slot bit.
@@1pcfredI saw one person make the straight part using the table saw and then use the bit. He didn't want to spend $ for a straight router bit.
@@a9ball1 that and circular saw blades remove material at a higher volume rate than router bits do anyways. Blades are just bigger than bits are. So they're going to take bigger bites.
Norm Abram made a table saw fence extension some 30 years ago on NYWS.
I thought I'd seen that before! I couldn't find footage of it though. If you come across it, or know the episode to check, let me know!
I'm all about working cheap. This is one of the best things about your channel... showing new ways to save money... and, in a funny way! SO... why are you indorsing the most expensive screwdriver known to man? Next thing you know, you'll be using a Festool Domino... LOL
I'd like to have a Festool Domino. The patents start running out next year! So maybe it won't be a Festool Domino, domino machine. Or maybe Festool will have to reduce their prices to compete in an open market. Because that's happening real soon now. I expect there to be ones available for a quarter the price.
I'm not suggesting it as a tool for the working man. It's closer to an executive toy that is also a very effective screwdriver. It's kinda like the MetMo Cube, which serves no practical purpose at all, but is still really cool
@@worstworkshop 😆... if only I could afford it... LOL
@@1pcfred Or you could make a router jig out of scrap :D
@@PaleRider559 you could but dominoes are faster and easier to use. Which is why pros love them. The efficiency is unparalleled. You're trading money for time. Which if you use a domino enough turns out to be an excellent deal. An amateur would never see a return though. Personally I don't even care for the joint a domino produces. But I'm not a big fan of pocket holes either and I use those. There's places where I simply don't care.
Would be curious to know what plastic u would put on top instead of varnishing with polyethylene (sorry probably the wrong phrasing) and yeah I completely agree nothing new under the sun. I have been clamping feather boards to my fence for years. Though the high fence idea is nice.
Might also work well with knock off dovetail jigs which might be easier to route out than t track.
Most people would use a phenolic sheet, but the last time I checked, something that big would go for between $75-100. I really like that dovetail idea
Good stuff.
Thanks!
Wanted to BOW fence but not sure i want to pay for it. I like the 1 inch thickness because I use the tape on my saw I don't keep a measuring tape near.
You might also check out this version my friend Mark made, which gives you even more real estate on top: th-cam.com/video/BAsbY0NKS2M/w-d-xo.html
It’s made for a contractor saw. If you have a cabinet saw it is too short. I use mine for certain applications especially ripping large plywood sections.
I think that's the best use case, but they actually have it in three lengths, up to 46". I think they used to have one that was 52" as well, but nobody needs that.
I was going to order the bow system until i saw the price. Dont get me wrong, its pretty awesome and a small business but over $100 for 50 cents in aluminum and some plastic and foam bits is just not in my budget. So i built one too lol
I think it's worth it if you have the cash, but not all of us do
But you are my favorite TH-camr . . .
Even if it's not true, I'm glad you said it. Thanks!
Love the video. Got me to subscribe. Do you have the plans for your router table? I really want one to mount my palm router to but much like you I hate spending money when I can build or 3D print something.
It was improvised, but I can tell you what I did. You basically make a small stool or table and utilize the holes in your router's base to bolt it into the top. From there, I clamped on a piece of scrap to use as a fence. If you like, you can add some miter slots if you like.
And please let me know if my other response made sense. You're not the first person to ask, and if there's a need, I could make a video on it.
@@worstworkshop yeah it did. I've seen plans for them. The quick shot in this video looked well built so I thought maybe you had made one. All good Thank you! Keep the videos coming!
My table saw dust collector is affixed to the blade guard. What if you put a (excuse naming) couple of rod guides on to of the fence and suspend the collection dome over the blade (with extra front and back area)? The dome would "remain" over the blades, no matter where the fence is as long as you adjust the overhang.
That's a solid idea. Thanks!
You bought feather boards!?!! lol. I did the same with a crosscut sled “kit” that came with all the t bolts and knobs, worth it to not source them all individually in my case.
Sometimes that's just how it works