I did it myself and yes it’s a heck of a job. But with patience and determination and with some good tools, the job is done. On a OEM suspension the difference in handling is way better. As for balance between oversteer and understeer, that’s personnel and depend also on your personal ability as a driver.
Agreed. Only downside is it forces you to buy upgraded suspension because you can tell it becomes the weak link instantly (stock suspension at least, not tried sport pack's B6)
@@miner4236 it’s not really the same for me. Depending of what kind of driving with your car. Goodwin Racing and FM advice were simple: first mod to do is sway bars. Since I am driving on bad roads, my OEM bilstein suspension is doing the job very well. My goal was to get rid of this suspension roll when I am cornering with enthusiasm….
Great video. I wonder if youre thinking about adding spacers or a slight camber on the wheels when you get to the track. Don't need to though, your car looks great and clean overall.
Great looking car. Must be real fun to drive on the twisties. Been thinking of buying another miata. A nd this time. Something that holds me back is watching them roll around the corners like a drunk . It looks like i would be spending close to $3000 for ohlins and exhaust to make the car i want. Owned a 90, 92 autocross, and a 93le. All great handling cars. My favorite was the le with softer fcm bump stops, and sways. Very balanced, and fast car on the corners. Current car is a 19 mustang Bullitt with magnaride suspension. Added ford racing springs, sways, and a computer flash for the magnaride. On sport, or track setting, flat, balaced, full suspension travel. Very fast car. Just needs to loose about 500 lbs😂
Would you recommend turbo or supercharger & why not supercharger ? Also, how is the lag and throttle modulation with your turbo ? I suppose it almost feels like NA or not really ?
I had Cusco sways great mild and what should of came stock on the ND. Then Racing Beat, way too stiff even with the softest setting, just lost traction, mostly oversteer, too stiff means less mechanical grip. Now have Megan Racing sways which I think is perfect. Also have SakeBomb Ohlins Long Travel coilovers. Yes, I also recommend swaybars first over springs/shocks. But also recommend to keep stock 205/45-17 tire size for those that mainly use as a canyon carver. Tried 215/45-17 and it losts that playfulness that the Miata is know for and became too serious feeling, can only imagine how much you lose with even wider tires rims. Same with bigger rotors, had the GWR big rotors and lost the playfulness. Light wheels/tires/rotors makes a difference in feel, gotta maintain that playfulness for the mountains. For your purpose of a track beast I can see larger wheels/tires/rotors making it more suited for track cause of th added stability from more gyroscopic forces.
As I am about to get some new 215s, I researched the hell out of the topic, and pretty much everyone says that the bump up to 215 from 205 is barely noticeable, if at all, and the added grip, wider stance for improved handling, and the improved looks are well worth it.
@@Trigger-xw9gq I much prefer the 205. It retains the playfulness of the Miata. I don't know what guys that go even bigger than 215 are thinking...it no longer feels like a Miata, I can tell a difference just with the 215, imagine what a 245 would feel like....Actually I do know, at least how if feels with a heavier front rotational/unsprung weight feels cause I had the Goodwin big rotor kit. That really took away from the feel of the Miata more then the 215 even did. It made the Miata feel like a larger heavy car and slower to steer/react. You have to consider why the love of the Miata cause of how it feels.
@@DaBinChe I agree in principal, but I think 215 is reasonable with minimal deleterious effect. Anything more than that and yes, you start to get away from the intent of the car.
@@Trigger-xw9gq When I went to 215 I hardly noticed a difference but when I went back to 205 the difference was very noticeable. I went thru two sets of 215s before going back to 205. I almost didn't but couldn't pass up the costco sale price. I'm glad I did.
Full soft in the front and full soft in the rear is EXTREMELY oversteer biased. Its the worst case scenario. The rear sway bar from Progress is extremely stiff as it is, its one of the stiffest on the market, if not the stiffest apart from karcepts on full stiff. You have to put the front sway bar to the stiffest settings. You need the end links. For now I would remove the rear bar all together, and re install the OEM bar until you can put the front bar to full stiff. This is not safe.
![[UNCUT] "บอสณวัฒน์" แฉ! แหล่งซุกเงินแก๊งบอส ขยันผิดที่ไม่กี่ปีก็เข้าคุก l คนดังนั่งเคลียร์ l17ต.ค.67](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/BL56qIfXYZM/mqdefault.jpg)
Hands down best upgrade, especially for such a low price
Ofc the install is literal hell but cost-wise it's 200% worth it
yay nd content
thanks for the review. What springs are you running?
I did it myself and yes it’s a heck of a job. But with patience and determination and with some good tools, the job is done. On a OEM suspension the difference in handling is way better. As for balance between oversteer and understeer, that’s personnel and depend also on your personal ability as a driver.
Agreed. Only downside is it forces you to buy upgraded suspension because you can tell it becomes the weak link instantly (stock suspension at least, not tried sport pack's B6)
@@miner4236 it’s not really the same for me. Depending of what kind of driving with your car. Goodwin Racing and FM advice were simple: first mod to do is sway bars. Since I am driving on bad roads, my OEM bilstein suspension is doing the job very well. My goal was to get rid of this suspension roll when I am cornering with enthusiasm….
@@Davan514 Bilstein yes, probably. I don't own the bilstein version and stock susp felt like sh*t as soon as I got FM sways haha
Love the car have nd1 with miester r coils and progress sway bar. Great Handling 👍 post more POV driving
Great video. I wonder if youre thinking about adding spacers or a slight camber on the wheels when you get to the track. Don't need to though, your car looks great and clean overall.
Great looking car. Must be real fun to drive on the twisties. Been thinking of buying another miata. A nd this time. Something that holds me back is watching them roll around the corners like a drunk . It looks like i would be spending close to $3000 for ohlins and exhaust to make the car i want.
Owned a 90, 92 autocross, and a 93le. All great handling cars. My favorite was the le with softer fcm bump stops, and sways. Very balanced, and fast car on the corners.
Current car is a 19 mustang Bullitt with magnaride suspension. Added ford racing springs, sways, and a computer flash for the magnaride. On sport, or track setting, flat, balaced, full suspension travel. Very fast car. Just needs to loose about 500 lbs😂
Installed the Flying Miata bars on a 23 MX5 a couple weeks ago. Wasn’t a bad job at all. Took about 3 hours front and rear.
That must be a blast to drive.
Would you recommend turbo or supercharger & why not supercharger ? Also, how is the lag and throttle modulation with your turbo ? I suppose it almost feels like NA or not really ?
I had Cusco sways great mild and what should of came stock on the ND. Then Racing Beat, way too stiff even with the softest setting, just lost traction, mostly oversteer, too stiff means less mechanical grip. Now have Megan Racing sways which I think is perfect. Also have SakeBomb Ohlins Long Travel coilovers. Yes, I also recommend swaybars first over springs/shocks. But also recommend to keep stock 205/45-17 tire size for those that mainly use as a canyon carver. Tried 215/45-17 and it losts that playfulness that the Miata is know for and became too serious feeling, can only imagine how much you lose with even wider tires rims. Same with bigger rotors, had the GWR big rotors and lost the playfulness. Light wheels/tires/rotors makes a difference in feel, gotta maintain that playfulness for the mountains. For your purpose of a track beast I can see larger wheels/tires/rotors making it more suited for track cause of th added stability from more gyroscopic forces.
As I am about to get some new 215s, I researched the hell out of the topic, and pretty much everyone says that the bump up to 215 from 205 is barely noticeable, if at all, and the added grip, wider stance for improved handling, and the improved looks are well worth it.
@@Trigger-xw9gq I much prefer the 205. It retains the playfulness of the Miata. I don't know what guys that go even bigger than 215 are thinking...it no longer feels like a Miata, I can tell a difference just with the 215, imagine what a 245 would feel like....Actually I do know, at least how if feels with a heavier front rotational/unsprung weight feels cause I had the Goodwin big rotor kit. That really took away from the feel of the Miata more then the 215 even did. It made the Miata feel like a larger heavy car and slower to steer/react. You have to consider why the love of the Miata cause of how it feels.
@@DaBinChe I agree in principal, but I think 215 is reasonable with minimal deleterious effect. Anything more than that and yes, you start to get away from the intent of the car.
@@Trigger-xw9gq When I went to 215 I hardly noticed a difference but when I went back to 205 the difference was very noticeable. I went thru two sets of 215s before going back to 205. I almost didn't but couldn't pass up the costco sale price. I'm glad I did.
Stiffer front sway bar creates under steer.
Opposite for rear.
Hi, what wheels and exhaust set up do you have, thanks
On a Miata, wouldn't it be more advantageous to add a just a rear sway bar? That seems to be what everyone does... No front stiffening.
No, no, a thousand times no. They already have a rear sway bar, it's just they are both a little too weak. They must be upgraded as a pair.
@@Trigger-xw9gq On a 2022 GT, what pictures can I find of this so-called sway bar?
@@doofmaczemy I don't know where you can find pictures of it, but they all come with rear sway bars.
As ND1 owner, I wouldn't do just rear sway bar since the car can rotate well when off throttle. Unless you drive like Max Verstappen's F1 car.
Bros production quality is too high for this amount of subs. TH-cam needs to get on this shit
Inconsistent uploading can murder YT exposure unfortunately unless you have a crazy viral video.
what's up with the mistress censorship at the beginning? 😂
Full soft in the front and full soft in the rear is EXTREMELY oversteer biased. Its the worst case scenario. The rear sway bar from Progress is extremely stiff as it is, its one of the stiffest on the market, if not the stiffest apart from karcepts on full stiff. You have to put the front sway bar to the stiffest settings. You need the end links.
For now I would remove the rear bar all together, and re install the OEM bar until you can put the front bar to full stiff. This is not safe.
Daddy chill. It’s driver preference and his setup is not unsafe.