The best way to attach a fishing lure is... (split rings, swivels, loop knots tested underwater)
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 10 พ.ค. 2024
- Snaps, split rings, swivels, loop knots...what's the best fishing knot or way to attach a lure to your fishing line or leader? In this video we test many different options with underwater video and slow-motion footage to get to the bottom of this debate of the best fishing knot or technique for tying a lure on. The following options were tested:
Loop knot
Direct tie with a snug knot (Trilene knot)
Crankbait snap
Split ring
Split ring + loop knot
Split ring + snap
Split ring + swivel
Trilene knot demonstration video: • How to tie the Trilene...
Non-slip loop knot demonstration video: • The best fishing knot ...
Strongest knot test: • Strongest Fishing Knot...
#bassfishing
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#howtofish
#fishingknot - กีฬา
Great video. Answers questions that I’ve been asking for years. Good job.
Thanks. Glad you enjoyed the video.
You made the same point I have been making for years...everyone tells us not to use rings or clips because it is not natural...but we have 2/3 hooks hanging down, a big plastic nose, 2 or 3 colors a fish may not have ever seen and line running from the nose, and don't forget a spinning spoon (yeah, that's natural)....but that ring or that clip will cause the fish not to bite....Hmmmmm.
I'm with you, Jim. There are some small lures where a snap, snap swivel, or split ring might have a significant impact on appearance, but I think in most cases it doesn't matter when you consider all the other junk hanging off the lure.
Ya know, i never considered that. I guess its different than using a single J/circle hook and cut bait on the bottom. I have seen twice in two different locations that even bull reds/drum wouldnt bite on braid but hit flouro with the same shrimp on the bottom.
@@95GTSpeedDemon They don’t have time to really inspect and analyze the nuances of a moving lure, but they certainly do with bait just sitting there. Frankly, I’ve seen more issues with saltwater fish like blues, Spanish mac, and stripers, not hitting moving lures tied straight to braid than using a leader with a big swivel. For whatever reason, largemouth bass don’t seem as bothered by direct tying with braid.
I have not noticed a difference in catch ups using direct braid floro or even mono even on albis that people say see everything one time during a blitz and I either dropped my leader or left it at the truck I had to tie an epoxy direct and my buddy next to me and I caught the same
It's called over thinking and reinventing the wheel... sure a presentation of a lifelike nature native bait fish is top notch however fish can be highly selective and choose not to bite natural things and will go for something that sparks their curiosity.
Replacement arrived!By the way, I did forget to mention that the original lure did have a decent strike however as most anglers will attest you can get a hit th-cam.com/users/postUgkxCbNOWAGmn6nfbCbJDmasvBq7J38KZNw2 and fish will hang on and release lure. I used the replacement lure yesterday and ran thru a Shimano Waxwing, Kastmaster, Bobber (set to sink). I found the does run deep (I casting on the flats 3.5'). Make sure you adjust your rate of retrieve and rod tip angle (up) to prevent getting snagged on bottom. Used it a couple of times and action was very lifelike (looked like local bait fish for trevally), craftsmanship very good....however eyeball fell out. I asked for replacement and it is on it's way! It was very easy to change out treble to single inline hook.
Thanks for watching.
I’ve been use snaps or tac clips because I’m lazy, many of the guys tell me it makes for a poor presentation, I’ve since started direct tying and never really saw a difference in bites. Thank you for pointing out the treble hooks and other non natural junk that a lure has, I never really thought about it. I’m going back to my lazy way and the heck with the peer pressure.
I use snaps a lot for the same reason. I also fish in really cold conditions (30s and less) where my hands don't work very well and can't tie a knot! Snaps come in handy on those days!
This is a man of culture right here
People far overthink stuff like this as well as color and size, if fish are hungry they will eat, period. If they are not hungry, they wont eat, simple as that. I bet if someone logged bite count across hours, you would actually have MORE bites using clips, just bc of time saved retying new lures, you are going to get more casts per hour.
Using any of these methods is fine, if fish bite a large piece of moving plastic with 2-3 treble hooks on it and a 2 inch plastic lip...I dont think a 0.01oz metal clip on the front is going to bother them. I go Palomar knot onto a clip and just change baits at will, no cutting, no retying blah blah blah.
@@jt_on_youtube Makes sense to me.
It prevents a line to twist and curl too.
Very insightful video, the underwater footage is going the extra mile. Thank you Nat!
Thanks - I appreciate the feedback.
The snap is my go to with and without the split ring having that quick lure change is a plus
I guess if you only chug large lures/bait a snap would be handy, but they are a hinderance to any kind of small/finesse presentation.
@@tbone6924 I agree that they have their limitations. I would recommend direct tying with finesse presentations or live bait.
I lost a 10+ pounder because of the snap. The big bitch literally bent the snap out and bye bye potential PB. Take the time to tie proper knots for the type line used and you won't regret it.
I change out the round split rings to oval split rings. It prevents the line from getting in the split ring. It works really well action wise also.
Good idea. The ovals are a good alternative to standard round ones.
I've always direct tied. If the lure came with a split ring I'd tie to that, if it didn't I'd just tie to the eye. Figured the companies already did enough testing for me anyway.
Considered adding a snap purely for the laziness aspect. I might try it a few days and see how it goes. The river I fish isn't super clear so I could probably get away with it.
Appreciate the underwater video, that's something I wouldn't be able to easily do myself.
Thanks for your feedback. Glad you enjoyed the video.
I totally agree that water clarity has got to be a factor. I’ve heard some anglers talk about minimizing hardware when the water is clear. We don’t have too much crystal clear water here in central NC though.
@@jessejamesfishing I agree with minimizing hardware in super clear water. We have some lakes and streams here in the Midwest that are crystal clear with 30+ feet of visibility. I think it's important to maximize the realistic appearance of the bait in those conditions.
If the river is pretty cloudy, don't worry about the clip at all. I use it in rather clear water without issue. Being able to cycle through different colors, sizes, and types of lures to hone in on what works best is a game changer
This is a really great video! I have direct tied and used the factory split ring and snap swivels over the years with good results. I had some issues with the snap rings opening but they were few and far between so I just tie to the lure or the split ring that is attached to the lure. Thank for sharing this and it really does not matter what is used.
Thanks - I'm glad you liked it. I've direct tied to split rings plenty of times and usually don't have an issue, but I generally prefer a snap for the quicker/easier lure changes. I appreciate the comment.
It does matter. I hooked a 10+ pounder on a snap ring with a jitterbug 15 years ago. She bent the snap out in less than 2 seconds after I set the hook. Bye bye PB. Proper knots on different lines is extremely important so research is key. P.s. I was an amateur using 20lb Berkley big game at that moment.
Thanks for do the testing for us. I've heard for many years to never use a snap because it was "lazy" or would throw off the action, but at least for this type of lure i now know i don't have to worry.
Saving time or frustration doesn't have to be lazy.
I know some older anglers whose eyes have a hard time focusing on their knots so it's really challenging for them. Snaps make fishing a lot less frustrating for them.
Some lures do not deal with fornication like this, I know this for a fact.
Direct tie on lv500 doesn’t work out
@@dankjankings7339 What do you use with the LV500 instead? What happens when you direct tie?
Great underwater demo! I use a snap to the split ring and have no issues catching fish on crankbaits.
I've caught plenty doing the same thing. Thanks for the feedback.
This was a great tutorial on different lures and tackle! Thank you sir!!!
Thanks for the comment. I appreciate the feedback.
Well done video, thank you for sharing. I'm usually a swivel/split ring guy mainly to save leader and reduce the amount of FG knots to tie. On a start/stop retrieve like a popper or big prop bait a stiff direct tie will keep the line out front and prevent fouling in the belly hook as the loose connection at the swivel, snap or loop will cause the line to hang down. I have also seen too many snaps fail on big fish. One important thing to do is test everything and not rely on manufacturer claims. I have had brand new line fail at half the stated rating, "fifty pound" split rings open like a paper clip with a thirty pound dumbbell and an expensive ball bearing swivel cost me the big fish of a costly trip when I discovered one of the rings wasn't welded. Inspect every bit especially if you're going for more than bass or trout.
Good thoughts. I am always skeptical of manufacturer claims and clever marketing too.
👏Good video, thxs , always swivel+ring is my preference
Thanks for sharing your preference. I appreciate it.
Wow, very impressive the action of the lures with the trilene knot. People always avoid snug knots because of the negative impact on the lure action, but this video makes that affirmation nonsense... Thanks for making this great content.
It seems like the lures have enough mass to them that they can continue their action quite well regardless of the way they are attached. Thanks for the comment.
Water clarity is a major factor for me , in central Ohio our lakes can sometimes be very cloudy almost like chocolate milk, less than 12 inches until the lure disappears. The point of attachment is then not as important as sound and vibration. Keep experimenting and remember to keep track of what works, but we’ve all had days where it seems nothing will and others when you swear they would hit a bare hook.
I agree. Extra hardware probably matters very little in really dirty/cloudy water. And I have caught bluegills, perch, and largemouth on bare hooks before. Sometimes they will strike just about anything!
Great video! The underwater helps so much! I have been using the snap only for a while now and no bad results i can notice. I thing though with it is that you have to make sure the snap has a good rounded bottom for the lure to rock in like a crankbait snap like in the video or a duolock. . The snaps that have a pointy-er end like a coast lock do have noticeable impact on the lure action.
I prefer the rounded-bottom snaps too. Thanks for the comment.
The best way to attach a lure is... dependant on lure it self. I have got lures that do not work well if there is no swivel + steel fishing line to balance it properly. I am not saying you are wrong, you are right, but only for types of lures you have.
Very true. The answer to so many questions in life is "It depends". Same thing here. The title of the video refers more to the constant debate over what the best way to attach a lure is. Thanks for the comment.
Arguably one of the best of the best fishing channels on TH-cam.
I won't argue. Damn fine content sir. You obviously possess the skill and know how. Along with the ability to present the material in a way that I find myself emerced. Kinda like listening to one of my old favorite teachers. Thank you very sincerely . Btw....I don't even have to mention I'm a new subscriber. Great videos. Just outstanding videos. Thanks again.
Thank you. I really appreciate the comment. Welcome to the channel!
I am glad that I found this channel. I have been going through all the videos. I have loved fishing for years. Unfortunately, I realized how little I actually knew. I am changing out the stock reel on a medium light combo rod I bought some years ago. I think it will greatly improve the rod along with knowing the type of fish the rod is best suited. Great channel!!
Thank you and welcome! Glad you're enjoying the videos.
Actually I'm often coming back to watch your show, seeking answers to my doubts or being able to spot my past mistakes ☝again the very first words you just said on this video 👍should help anyone who is keen to try an alternative approach / keep up Nat and thank you again 👍
Thanks for watching - glad you enjoyed this one!
Thanks to this video I'll be removing the ring, and keep using a swivel. I find tying 4 to 6 pound test challenging. Thank you for the video. Hi Nat!
I've removed most of the rings from my crankbaits too, and I tend to use a snap in its place. I like the convenience of a snap with crankbaits.
Can only bring so many fishing rods (2-3 in my case) so that makes total sense.
The comments below about water clarity are pretty much spot on.
For me, overall I've had better luck with tying firmly directly to the lure, often using a fluorocarbon leader. In murky water, I worry less about the line or a snap being seen.
With a spinning reel, I like a swivel between the leader and the main line.
My general choice though is either a small snap right to the lure, or tie it on securely.
On several of my go-to lures though I keep them tied with a short length of fluorocarbon leader and I just switch out the lure and leader when I need to change baits. I found this the fastest way to make the change and not to lose any leader length. The swivel or snap swivel ahead of the leader are far less likely to be seen by the fish. Most of the water here is cedar water and fairly shallow, so leader sensitive fish can be picky on bright sunny days too. Another trick that someone showed me once was to use a short leader ahead of the lure with a snap swivel, camouflaged by a bit small hackle or skirt to give the impression of a fish chasing a meal.
I found a few particular areas where that works really well as a bass will take advantage of a 'distracted' fish.
I do believe that distracted prey look enticing to a predator. That's a neat trick with a skirt over the snap swivel.
I fish in cedar water, too. Jersey Pine Barrens, mostly. I use braid for the mainline and a fluoro leader, which I tie together with a double uni knot. I have been amused on more than one occasion to see bluegills chasing the stupid knot-only to be chased by a bass or pickerel!
@@Schnazola I believe it. Thanks for sharing!
As a novice, this video is extremely helpful. Thank you!!
Thanks for the feedback
A snap seems like the best choice for me, thank you! Looking to build a box and try it all bit by bit! Tysm
Snaps are very convenient and great for beginners
I will going to try this, Thanks for sharing it. FISH ON 🐠
Thanks for watching. Good luck fishing!
Great video. I think I will try the snap since i can swap lures quicker. I hate tying on lure after lure. Also, like you said, the lure already hooks and a bill that's not natural. Very good point.
Thanks for the comment. Good luck on the water!
Very interesting results. I've been using clips for years and I am definitely lazy. It makes me feel good to know it wasn't in vain. :)
Thanks for the feedback
I'm glad I watched this. I asked many fishing buddies, more experienced than me, if I should use swivels or tie straight on to the lures. They all said "tie directly." Now, I'd rather use swivels since they are NOT detrimental to the lure action. Wahi' Valleys
Thanks for watching - glad you enjoyed the video.
Good insight ,im gona try split ring & clip combo ive grown away from snap swivels
Thanks for the feedback
I find this video both informative, and hilarious. So many anglers I've had discussions with in regards to "best way to rig," will fight tooth and nail based on their personal beliefs or opinions. "it MUST be rigged this way for best action!"...well after watching this practical video, I see absolutely no major differences. Now granted, this underwater test only used one style of bait, but the premise remains valid. TLDR - knot choice, swivels, snap-ons, or split-rings have little to no effect on hard bait action. Do what's best for YOUR style of fishing, I like the method of using snap-on to quickly exchange baits, why? because I'm a lazy angler myself lol...
Well said. I'll experiment more beyond crankbaits this year and various methods of attachment.
I'm 50years old and I've been using the swivel and split-ring for 25 some years.
It really helps a ultra-light spinning reel,to prevent help prevent line twist.
The baits do move more freely with more lifelike action.
It makes it fairly easy to change lures too,once you get used to the split rings
Thanks for the feedback. Do you use this method with multiple types of lures, or do you change your methods between crankbaits and other types of lures?
@@FishingwithNat The swivel and ring is most convenient with crankbaits.Yeah you can put a split ring on a worm hook too😜,I've done it.split ring pliers helps a lot.
You know about using aluminum tape to correct funny swimming crankbaits.. or to make a floating lure a suspending one👍
Soaking your mono(works best the heavier mono you use) 24hrs before you spool helps keep mono flexible.
Or even using a dab a of superglue to help keep baits on your hooks(works best with ultra lights)or on knots tied.😎😎😎✌️
@@B166ER420 Good tips. Good luck on the water!
I don’t understand how you would get line twist with a lure that does not spin. Put a spinning lure like a Celta and no swivel invented will stop line twist with that.
In Australia it is most common to use a swivel with permanently attached clip to connect to the split ring on the lure. The fish don’t care and I like the extra few grams to cast the lure a little farther.
I'm going with a snap for lure changing convenience. Thanks for all of the underwater shots!
John McHatton
Sounds like a good plan to me. Thanks for the feedback.
Hey John, can you let me know how using a snap has gone for you? I am considering using them
Cam,
I use the VMC Crankbait snaps. They can be a little tough to open, but I've had no problems with them breaking or popping open. I would go with a heavier pound test snap than you need. I would not use them for stripers, muskies, etc. Powerful fish like that might be able to open or break them.
@@cmchatton1680 Thank you for the info. Do you use pliers to open and close them or do you just slip the lure in like a paperclip? I was also looking at TA power clips. Might get both VMC and TA to try.
Split ring plus snap for all crank baits, solid jerk baits and almost all hard lures. Saves a lot of time, money, energy and frustration. Plus if you need more hunt action or more rattling noise, split ring to swivel clip. I even hit mine with UV nail polish or glittery nail polish. Bait eating something is a double snack to a small minded fish.
I can't argue with that!
thanks. i've always wondered what the best way to do nthis was, and now i still do.
Haha thanks for the comment. The main point was simply that the difference in lure action was subtle between all of these methods, but other factors like convenience and how long it takes you to tie a knot should also be considered.
i like the idea of swivel-split ring-lure for lake trout. they often gator roll and get wrapped up. im hoping this will help
Yeah the swivel could help a lot with that.
Back in the day we used to silver solder split rings as they open up on the whoppers. But interesting results well done.
Not a bad idea. Thanks for the feedback.
good stuff man. i lost 3 big halibuts and lures trying to figure this out. Now I know it doesn't really matter....so I can beef my stuff up and pull one in. I'm tieing knots now those halibuts pulled those snap swivels open.
whoo hoo the next one is not getting away.
Glad you enjoyed the video. Thanks for the comment and good luck with the next halibut!
Great video!! WAS wondering about this stuff. I'm a snap guy myself. The ol' eyeballs ain't what they used to be and I like to be able to switch between lures fast and efficiantly
Thanks for the comment. Snaps are super convenient if you don't have great vision or even if there just isn't much light.
This the first video that makes sense. simple connections👍
Thanks - glad you enjoyed it!
Now we know, I was always semi confident it did not matter to me but I feel re-assured now !!
Great - thanks for the comment!
I bought those pliers with the tooth couple of days ago, now I know what they're for 😅
Yep. They are good for removing split rings.
Generally, I use a snag knot or loop knot with the factory split ring. If there is no factory ring, I'll usually use a loop knot tied directly to the lure. I like to minimize the front end hardware. I acknowledge the view that multiple treble hooks are already a lot of hardware on a lure (so adding a bit more shouldn't matter), however, I think that the way the hooks are usually oriented they may look like fins when in motion. Front-end hardware probably looks less natural.
That's a reasonable point. The hooks certainly could look something like a fin/tail as they sway back and forth. Thanks for the comment.
Appreciate your videos, as a sea kayaking angler, changing lures often us essential. Never used snaps until I saw this and it became a game changer
Interesting but as mentioned "Only the fish know for sure." 😊
If only we could ask them if they cared one bit.
Good video. The reason I tie it direct is that I saltwater fish a bunch and the leader get weak and fryed pretty much every toothy fish. This resulting in me having to cut the leader shorter and retie often. In freshwater I totally agree No need to tie directly most of thr time.
Makes sense.
As a test I was fishing with swivels a metal leader, used a senco, jigs and spoons to see if the fish would bite with all that hardware attached, I ended up catching a bunch of bass and walleye 😂 decent fish! to me your video is spot on…if a fish wants to bite what your throwing it will if it doesn’t than it won’t. We give fish to much credit I think.
Thanks for sharing your test results!
love the underwater action shots.
Thanks for the feedback. I'm glad you enjoyed the underwater footage!
Great underwater video thanks. You might like to put your trebles on the other way. You get a lot of hook damage with the way they are. Often with trebles when you hold them up the shank will be running down one side. Generally its the right side so this is the way you pput them on the rings. It allows 2 hooks to sit snug on the belly and not damage the paint work. Thanks again for the great vid. 🎣🎣👍👍
Good tip - those are the original trebles from the factory. Thanks for the comment.
Bottom line......they all work. Thx 4 the vid.
Thanks for the feedback.
I like the 4-way video. Much easier to compare action.
Thanks for the feedback - I appreciate it.
A wise man once says: If there is no fish biting, it doesnt matter whats at the end of your line.
And some days they just aren't biting!
I use small but good quality/strong red snaps. Quick easy lure changes and good movement. I change out most my treble hooks for red ones as well. There are days when I see little to no difference but others it’s a big plus.
Sounds like a good plan. I've used some red treble hooks and red single hooks but haven't noticed a substantial difference in my waters around here.
Yes it’s strange how certain lakes often do better with certain baits. One small lake in northern Minnesota the eyes loved the no longer made Berkley deep firesticks but in perch with red treble hooks and even the entire bill colored red with permanent marker. Out caught anything else 2 to 1 or better.
@@kross1261 Interesting. I was out yesterday trolling crankbaits with a couple of friends and the only thing that caught fish between all of our lines was a Flicker Shad 5 in one specific pattern. That bait caught 8 pike and no other bait had any strikes, although I did get one 42.5" musky at the end of the night on a similar Flicker Shad. It was the only bite I had all day.
@@FishingwithNat yes its one of the many things that makes fishing such a challenge. When I go out trolling usually for eyes but sometimes musky we are always switching lures until we find what they want. Sometimes it’s the style bait but many times it’s color. Once we figure it out (if we do) we switch everything out to match the bite. One reason I have such a plethora of lures. And the consistently good lure you have to have 2-3 in case you get bit off. It can get expensive but I’m sure you can relate.
@@kross1261 I can definitely relate. My wife saw my stack of lure boxes a few days ago and was a little shocked. (she didn't notice the other stack across the room) 😆
In short less is more, and being able to quick change with cold wet hands is good 👍
That is true.
I tried almost all of those swivel is so important if you use spinning reel line get twisted and then when it gets loose like when you cast you will get wind knots specialy while jigging (jigs turn around a lot) now i use snap and swivel combo and i want to switch to split ring and swivel combo
Thanks for the comment
Very important analysis. Nice work!
Thank you for the comment.
wooww the best tutorial video i seen.....thanks for sharing👀👀👀👀godblesssss🙏🙏🙏🙏
Glad you enjoyed it. Thanks for the comment.
And Mr. Fish would agree. I don't think it matters how you connect your lure, if the fish is hungry they will bite. I normally connect with a uni with my main which is power pro but lately have been using split rings for my plugging setup and I still get bites. And to be honest, knot tying is as fundamental to fishing as is casting. If you can't tie fishing knots you are not a fisherman or woman. Another great and informative video. I really liked the underwater view of the lures in action. Mahalo for the video. See you on the next one.
Well said. Thanks for the feedback.
I like usin just straight clip to the lure no ring, I take em off all the time. Less hardware in front less weight and quick to changes out lures. Good vid
Sounds like a good plan to me. Thanks for the feedback.
That paper clip style ones? I use those on most baits, especially big swimbaits. The only time I tie direct direct is to a jig, or jig hook swimbaits.
@@seanp9157 Those are a solid choice too. I also use snaps a lot but tie direct to jigs or live bait.
@@FishingwithNat right?!? I feel like you really need that straight connection of tying straight to the hook on big single-hook baits like a jig, live bait or soft plastics. Actually, with soft plastics I've been using flipping hooks with a snell knot for a while now. Great fish action with a sliding weight when it hits the flipping hook. Also a good hookset with the line wrapped around the shank.
@@seanp9157 I agree
thank you so much for this! I have been wondering and debating about this for quite a while. I only bank fish and live in central Florida. the amount of lost lures leads me to throwing mostly texas and wacky rigs. I want to try the jerks, cranks and swim baits more. it's just that the baits are expensive, and I get no financial compensation whether it catches or gets hung up and breaks off.
to put it in perspective, the place I got to fish closest to my work, (in the first week of december mind you) has about 10 feet of vegetation, out from the bank. it is so thick, I see birds walking on it, and I ain't talking about parakeets or finches either. I mostly save the exposed hook lures for when I can get out on a dock. I have had many "weedless" jigs, spinners, and chatter baits hung up and broke off. WAY too many! so, no more split rings, loop knots for me, direct tie palomar or modified uni for me, from now on.
Thanks for the feedback. I'm glad you enjoyed the video!
I do lots of shore fishing, IMO leave the cranks in the boat.The way a crankbait achieves its depth its totaly oposite to the needs of a shore caster, and the lip/ multiple hooks pick up weeds like crazy. Besides plastics, IMO spoons are the best. Change out the treble for a single hook and they run pretty weedless, you can add a plastic trailer if desired. Spinners are good too, same thing with the hooks and trailers, and spinner baits are also good.
@@bushleague3472 I agree, although cranks can work well if the dropoff is fairly steep or if the bottom is rocky/gravelly. Bouncing cranks off of rocks is a great way to entice a strike. Spinners, spinnerbaits, and plastics are great from banks with a shallower dropoff. Spoons can be casted a mile and can be lifted higher in the water column as it gets closer to the bank so there is less risk of getting snagged. I definitely agree with the use of a single hook if there is a lot of vegetation around.
@@FishingwithNat Even on a steep drop, unless you have something that can be counted down, your crank will be relatively shallow when it is over the deepest water, by the time you crank it down its part way in... better to count down a spoon right at the end of your cast, and rip jig it back at the destired depth IMO. That said, I occasionally use cranks over rocks before the weeds grow in, and they work. I use them a fair bit from the boat too. IMO the key to shore fishing is staying mobile (the most major difference between typical boat and shore fishing success rates IMO), so I generally dont cary anything that only works in specific situations... pick your water body wisely, travel light as possible, and cover lots of ground. I own a boat and a few canoes, but many years my biggest fish are caught from shore.
@@bushleague3472 Good thoughts. I mostly fish from kayaks but when I fish from shore, I have a rod or two and everything else in a backpack. That keeps me easily mobile.
I prefer a wirebite leader with uniknot directly to a split ring, or a very small loop knot on the eye of the rig. Then 9 feet of nylon to braid, or entire nylon behind. Catches very well. Believe me when I say I tried everything and went several ways 2 weeks at a time almost fishless with other options. My species are northern pike, browntrout, seatrout, roach, perch and salmon
Interesting. Thanks for sharing.
I like the norman speed clips. super easy and fast.
I've heard lots of good things about those but recently have heard about some breaking. Have you had any issues with them breaking?
@@FishingwithNat ive only been using them for the last year, i habe not had any break on me, they have a small size and a big soze and they have both held up well. ive been using the same one for a couple months at a time.
@@phis.750 Awesome, that sounds great. Do the packages have a pound-test rating on them? It seems like everyone just sells a regular size and a large size but there is no strength rating provided.
@@FishingwithNat I never really looked for a rating for them. not sure if there is or not.
I always found the most inhibiting or freeing factor to lure life is line size or added weight. Sometimes I use the split ring or snap to get the nose of a crankbait or swimbait down more. If I need better action then I drop the line size.
Line weight or added split shots or other weight can have some effect on the action. I haven't found a snap or split ring to have much effect but that would depend on the size of those items relative to the crankbait's size and balance point.
wow ..the best tutorial video.. thanks for sharing my friend..
Thanks for watching. I'm glad you enjoyed the video.
norman speed clip. I have used both the norman and knock off of norman speed clips and have had a lot of success.
Those are good. I compared them to other styles of snaps in a video last year all about snaps and their pro/cons. th-cam.com/video/RM-mmBS_yO4/w-d-xo.html
I tie direct, and dont remove spilt rings. I feel that it doesnt matter what you use in open water.. but when you're around cover/grass, anything but directly tying is just another object that can get snagged. I also think that removing/adding weight to the front can/will affect the action of jerkbaits.
Definitely - I would agree. I like the convenience of snaps, but they definitely increase the amount of vegetation that gets caught up on the rig.
"anything but directly tying is just another object that can get snagged"
Boom.
On the four way split screen, it looks like the bottom right has more, or faster movement. But that, like you said earlier in the video, can be good or bad.
To me, it's all personal preference. I like swivels because they can help manage line twist. I catch fish with and without them though. It's all presentation of the bait, lure color for the time of year and blah blah blah. I don't think line to lure connection matters much as long as the knot used is good.
Thanks for the feedback. Good points.
@@FishingwithNat thanks for the content.
On almost all of my baits I tie directly to the lure with an advanced clinch knot. But, with large glide baits and some large ( 2+ oz ) swimbaits, I use a clip.
Thanks for the feedback
I always liked a snap and swivel, but may go to a small steel leader, because the line wouldn't get worn as much, plus being small it would be less noticeable
Thanks for sharing. Steel leaders can be great for toothy fish but may spook other fish, especially in clear water.
I fish with a steel leader up in Ontario and we catch a TON of fish. I usually just direct tie on deep runners and countdowns and use a leader when targeting big pike specifically. But I've caught everything on a crank with a steel leader. If the fish are biting, they're biting.
Thanks for the discussion
From the start, I have been tying a swivel directly to my leader. So i can change from hook, to lure or a sabiki in a flash. It saves from cutting the leader and retie everytime
Thanks for the feedback. I'm not a fan of wasting leader and spending time retying either.
Thank you. Very informative.
Thanks for the comment.
Nice video! Might be significantly different on small lures
It could be. I may have to repeat the test with a few smaller lures to see.
This topic has been talked about a lot on another well known and ahem, strong salt water fishing channel with the general consensus being the loop knot is preferred method of attaching an action hard bait to get the best action.
I would still like to see more types of hard baits (glide baits, poppers etc). The bib and body shape of a crank bait pretty much counters any attachment method so I think it would be good to try this tests with lures that need more finesse to achieve the best action.
Thanks for the feedback and suggestion. Sounds like a fun topic for an upcoming video.
From the footage of man anglers it seems to me there are not much differences, maybe the only difference might be on jerkbaits, the action could be different when twitching, jerking. So for me Imll go for a snap, just for convenience
@@expomm I agree. It would be worth testing some topwater baits too, and maybe some other baits.
I'm thinking this video has convinced me to remove the split ring and run snaps for most situations. With a snap, it appears the split ring being there is a redundancy. Awesome video!
I agree that the split ring and snap seem to be redundant and you really only need one of them. If you only have one, it makes sense to use the one that is most convenient for switching lures.
@Never Mind Yeah a solid ring would be fine to tie to because there is no sharp end of the wire to damage your line/knot. Leaders are not always long - sometimes they are only 6-12 inches long for bite resistance. Re-tying could mean you need to tie another leader.
@Never Mind Interesting idea. Why not grab the fish directly if you aren't using a net? I try to keep hooked fish out of my kayak to avoid the risk of a flopping fish thrashing hooks around my legs.
You hit the nail on the head when talking about extra hardware. The hooks and rings are defamatory the most noticeable no matter which method a fisherman uses.
Agreed. Thanks for the feedback.
Great video , I always tie direct to the gibbs minnow with a 6 turn clinch knot.8 lb mono. I like the sleek look of no hardware .
Right on - do you use the Gibbs as a jigging spoon or for casting? Any issues with line twist from it?
@@FishingwithNat casting .as far as I can tell no problem.
3/4 oz gibbs the trout love the small slender profile
@@townieoutdoors8121 OK, cool. I get a lot of twist with vertical jigging spoons (you can see the jigging spoon rolling in slow-motion as it falls in our How Spoons Work video). th-cam.com/video/sSA4mI1UMoU/w-d-xo.html That's cool that the Gibbs works well for casting too.
@@townieoutdoors8121 Good tip - thanks :) I'll be chasing some brookies and rainbows this weekend but will probably start with a Rooster Tail.
Just found your channel, excellent video thank you!
👍'd & Sub'd
I've always used a swivel and a snap link.
Sometimes fish spin like a croc, causes twists.
Thanks again for the video.
Very true. It's not always the lure that causes the line twist. Especially with catfish!
When I was a little boy, my Dad showed me the simplest loop in the world and I have used that one method in my 65 years as a fisherman for everything from bluegills to large ocean fish, and it has NEVER let me down. This loop can tie on any hook or lure, AND it can be removed as well.
Sounds like there's no reason to change now!
What's it called
@@PreparedCitizen1996 We never called it anything except "a loop." Works for everything from 2 lb test mono to rope, and I have caught everything from bluegills to large ocean fish. Never had one fail, and you can scale it up as large as you want to. Use it with rope to attach an anchor. AND, it's generally removeable.
@@azzir325 appreciate it
I agree I use my own loop and never had let me down I can garantee it with 30 years experience. More things that make more risk to loose the lure, and higher chance to get stuck more often
O detalhe conta muito. Obrigado pelo vídeo.😊
You're very welcome. Thanks for the feedback.
Ha, yeah I've brought that up about the extra visible hardware as well. People don't seem to realize just how crazy in your face the hooks, hardware connecting the hooks to the lure, and the lip on a crankbait are in the water. Adding an extra bit to the front isn't going to really matter. If it were a problem, these lures wouldn't work as well as they do anyway because of all the other stuff hanging off them. Then you get into other types of lures like spinnerbaits, A rigs and such, the hardware on those is crazy visible yet they still catch fish.
Yes. I can't believe A-rigs ever catch anything, but they do!
Thank you for the video! Been a long time i went fishing and its a great refresher.
This years vacation im visiting the mediterranean sea, any recommendations which wobbler to use for saltwater fish?
I'm a long way from saltwater so I really don't have any experience with saltwater fishing.
I like a snap swivel myself or a direct tie barrel knot. Los Angeles
Thanks for the feedback
I agree. Novice or not, a very useful video. Thank you for sharing. I think others may now make a more informed decision. Well done. Cheers 👍🏻
That was the goal. Thanks for the comment.
Swivel and split-ring with Tri knot. Haven't broke off in 20 years due to rub. monster Snook ..Reds.. Gator Trout .. and Cobia...although a Cobia last year straightened out a treble ..but solved that issue changing every plastic swimmer in the box with Mustad Ultra Point KVD TG-76 Triples
Awesome. Thanks for the feedback.
MOST AMAZING VIDEO EVER!
Thanks - I really appreciate the feedback
I use snaps. To be able to change between lures or bait without having to tie knots in the field
Makes sense to me. Snaps are very convenient.
really nice video. would of liked to have a top-down view of the lure as well.
Thanks for the feedback.
Surprisingly I had a noticeable difference of amount of fish caught when I used a snap vs directly tying line to the lure, I used the same lure and noticed, I caught less fish using a snap vs directly tying to the lure.
Thanks for your feedback
I have noticed this too. Tying the line directly, I do get more strike
@@shamsheed6479 I think it can make a difference in clear water, especially with picky fish.
Me too, and of course line size makes a big difference too... My cousin, whom i fished with often, caught at least 2:1 bass more than me, and maybe more, on a shaky head. I didn't figure it out till later, but we mostly fished with exact same bait & color etc, but he used 10lb and 8lb line, and i used 12lb.
@@randomschmo5778 I'll never forget fishing for brown trout with a friend a bunch of years ago. We were both catching huge browns every few minutes from the bank during the beginning of the spawn, and the two people right next to us weren't catching anything. They were using gigantic rods with 20-30lb mono, and we were using medium actions with 8# mono. We even felt bad for them after a while and gave them the exact bait we were using. They still couldn't catch a thing and I'm convinced it was all the line/rods they had.
I’ve been using a snap ring for 20+ years. I laugh when people say that it scares the fish, meanwhile you have giant treble hooks and a 2 inch plastic nose on the front. It’s 200x better than buying another rod just be able to fish 2 different lures.
I agree. The snap usually has a minimal effect on lure appearance compared to the trebles or lip.
brilliant.
ill use the absolute barebbones minimal hardware, looks most natural.
even though i firmly belive most fish and crab will bite anything you throw at them.
tbh i wouldnt even dangle the giant hooks off the bell and tail, id just add a few solo barbs sticking out of the body, fish gonna swollow, fishermen gonna yank.
Sometimes the fish are hungry/aggressive enough to bite just about anything. I remember going fishing as a kid and dangling a bare hook from a dock because I forgot to bring my worms. I was able to catch several species of fish by giving that hook various kinds of action to entice bites. Thanks for the feedback!
Wow thankyou so much. I thought there would be a difference, but it appears not. I would be really interested to see them from a less steep angled tow, and if they track straight when viewed from above. Really appreciate your work. Thanks
Thanks. These videos are indeed a lot of work to make but they sure are interesting to put together.
I'm new to FL and to surf fishing. In 2 weeks I've caught 4 Snook @ 32" +. 2 were on shrimp attached to my Pompano rigs. The other 2 were on plastics. I used a snap swivel attached to the lure followed by about 24" of mono, a barrel swivel and then my 20# braid. I personally don't know if the fish take the time to scrutinize all the hardware. For me, it didn't seem to matter.
Thanks for the feedback! Good luck in the surf! Still a couple months of ice yet here... :(
Awesome video! Thanks!
Thanks - glad you liked it!
I generally use a snap for easy changes, but find too much jewelry at the front can be a little problematic with lighter suspending lures. They can slowly start to sink nose first into the structure you’re pausing over.
Absolutely. Suspending lures are delicately balanced and I would avoid adding much weight to them in terms of rigging hardware, new treble hooks, etc.
@@FishingwithNat so it means, it is possible also to just directly tie the braid into the lure?
@@nathanborja4532 Yes
Super helpful!
Excellent - thanks for the feedback
Going with swivel to clip I’ll let you know how it goes 🎉
Sounds good!
The split rings I have seen have sharp edges at each end and I believe that could cut the line when fighting a big fish 🐟🐠
I've seen some pretty sharp split rings too. I agree that the sharp ends can damage a knot and cause knot failure.
If it ends up there I’ll cut it off and tie again, happens every now and then, frustrating when the bite is hot and short lived.
@@axminsterz4151 I agree. Sometimes we get bite windows here during the walleye run where the action is hot for 30 minutes and then dies. You need to take advantage of every second.
“This could be a good thing or a bad thing and only the fish knows for sure”
That should be fishing saying 😊
If only we could ask the fish.
I’ve tried them all it all works the same, the fishers reaction, knowledge of where the fish are and their ability to cast in a consistant pattern matters more.
Experience is definitely one of the most valuable parts of fishing.
I never noticed a difference except saving line from not having to constantly cut and re-tie. I run a fluorocarbon leader tied to a snap swivel. I can switch lures in a few seconds and it never stopped me from catching multiple fish. The only time I tie on lures is during finesse fishing or creek trouting where you do need a very realistic, subtle presentation.
I think that's a good strategy.