In my case I have a 63 Mercury Comet Conv. and it was helpful to see how you were able to remove and install new rear shocks with raising and lowering the driveline with body.. Big Thanks!!
Thanks for the step-by-step instructions! They really helped me today when I did the rears. Took my about an hour and fifteen minutes from seat removal to finish.
I though the original height was ok, but I changed my mind after seeing the the car dropped by 1" and now this look much better. Thanks for another entertaining video.
Andy, by dropping the rear end you increased the caster angle to more positive which is better for highway speed driving and the steering wheel should return faster from making turns . I would recommend that you also check the pinion angle now ! If the angle is to close to zero, you might have to install some angled lowering blocks to keep that stance and to increase the pinion angle back "down" close to three degrees.
Does it increase if the front is dropped about the same amount? I was under the impression that the Shelby Mod increased the caster angle. I'm not sure that the subtle drop I've done is enough to make that driveline a straight line from the trans to the third member, but I'll check into it.
@@douglasknutsen The drive is better, but it's barely noticeable. The down side to all the mods I do is that it's one piece at a time, where sometimes it can be difficult to tell a difference, versus doing everything at once. The plus side to that is sometimes a single mod can drastically change the car, just not so in this case. :)
This is perfect! I literally bought some rear shocks about 30 minutes before your video came out! Do you find that the lowering blocks affect the handling? Thanks again for doing these videos!!
I planned it that way. :) The 1 inch blocks won't really do much with respect to handling, other than helping lower the center of gravity. I'd prefer not to have the blocks, but I was afraid the 2" drop Leafs would be too much at which point you can't go back without buying new leafs. It's a compromise I was willing to make. My longer tern plans for the car won't include the blocks, but that's a ways away and I need lots more money than I have now. :)
Good day Andy greetings from sydney Australia love the channel , how about a start up and drive video , with the new mods car looks great credit to you . Cheers
I noticed that your leaf springs are gray. I ordered mine from cj pony parts and they came in gray. Was going to paint them black but now I’m second guessing.
Hi Andy, what’s your thoughts on air shocks,? ours currently has air I have heard it can damage the upper panel Either way ; wanted to know why you didn’t go with air shocks And how would we plug the current lines,? Would I have to change the leafs if I removed air ? Thanks again From your California subs Rich
I think there's a place for air shocks, but I don't know where it is. My first two Mustangs had them on the car when I bought it, but neither were functional (poor installation?). I've seen lots of cars with some form of air-ride suspension, and most of those people look like they know what their doing. But I do not recall seeing air suspension on performance cars (but I'm sure they're out there). I'm trying to take this build more towards the "canyon carving" direction, without spending it all on one component. I'll admit I've chosen a few parts purely on price, but I'm on a budget and I'm not building a show car or time-trial record setting race car. :) I don't think you'd need to plug the current air lines, just remove them with the shocks. I briefly mention it in the video I made where I replaced the rear leaf springs on my previous mustang, back in the end of 2020. :)
My wheel/tire size is 15x7 4-1/2” bs with 215/60r15 on my 65’ Fastback. The rear rubs slightly when I have passengers. I have Koni adjustable shocks all the way around. Can I adjust them to be stiffer so they don’t let the rear drop so much?
Unfortunately that's not how that works. Those Koni shocks have rebound adjustment (affects how the shock performs after experiencing bumps in the road), but not height adjustment. They're more for dialing in comfort than compensating for passengers. One option is to slightly roll the quarter panel lips so the tires don't rub, but not everyone is comfortable doing that. A less desirable option to swap in some stiffer leaf springs. But this can get expensive and possible affect the comfort/handling of the car that is not the style you like. :)
The ride is “normal”, meaning not stiff or soft. I was concerned that more of a Sport shock would be too stiff, but the kind of car I’m building could probably benefit from the next step up in shock stiffness.
can you buy 4.5 leaf spring with reverse eyes for a normal amount of money ?because i only see the reverse eye in 5 leafs version and i think it will give a harse ride so in my opinion the way yo did it 4.5 leaf mid eye with 1 inch lowering block is the perfect combo ( i wanna lower my mustang a bit lower so the tires are leveled with the wheel arches :-) i hope it will not give me problems whit that low of a car) :-) nice stance , and yes please give us a short video where you film around the car so we can see the stance and tire and rim combo (a picture is not enough :-))
I'm not sure, I never looked into reverse eyes as I knew I didn't want to go that far with the Leaf Springs. Agreed, pics are not enough. We're covered in snow right now, so putting together an outside-shot video isn't going to happen soon. But, we'll see what I can do. :)
@@AndyKruseChannel thank you for replying ! I am currently shopping for 17” wheels So safe bet to say 225/50r17 on 7” wheel in rear would work but in the front since I don’t want to roll my fenders 205 or 215 do you suggest ?
A 225/50/17 will be a taller tire that what I have, you may find subtle fitment issues with it. A 225/45/17 for the rear would be a better fit. For the front, I would recommend the same size (but it may still rub), or drop down to 215/45/17. There are tire size calculator sites out there where you can put in your current size or stock size and compare it to your new size. It will provide the size difference as well as what the speedometer will read with a different tire over stock. Keep in mind, that if you change to a tire size that has a larger or smaller circumference than stock, you may need to change the speedo gear in the transmission to keep your speedometer accurate. :)
Better. There's not much to those shocks, no special valving or dampening, so I wasn't expecting much. I mostly did it because I have no interest in air ride stuff and I wanted to complete the rear suspension upgrade.
@@umangu If you're asking for my opinion, I'd say just get the normal shocks unless you are racing the car on the track. Being able to adjust the damper and/or rebound in these cars really only sees a benefit after you've spent some time and money reworking the rest of the suspension components (springs, sway bars, panhard bar, subframe connectors, etc). :)
In my case I have a 63 Mercury Comet Conv. and it was helpful to see how you were able to remove and install new rear shocks with raising and lowering the driveline with body.. Big Thanks!!
Glad it helped. :)
Thanks for the step-by-step instructions! They really helped me today when I did the rears. Took my about an hour and fifteen minutes from seat removal to finish.
Awesome, I'm glad it helped! :)
I though the original height was ok, but I changed my mind after seeing the the car dropped by 1" and now this look much better. Thanks for another entertaining video.
Thanks!
I really like the look all around. Those wheels look great in their new snug home.
I think so too!
Stance is perfect. Love the 16in wheels.
Thanks!
Man that is one sweet ride.
Thanks!
Man I appreciate your content.
Glad to hear it, and I'm glad you're able to pull some value from it. :)
Great video as always Andy! How about a before and after pic? The new stance looks awesome!
Thanks!
beautiful mustang!!
Thanks!
Andy, by dropping the rear end you increased the caster angle to more positive which is better for highway speed driving and the steering wheel should return faster from making turns . I would recommend that you also check the pinion angle now ! If the angle is to close to zero, you might have to install some angled lowering blocks to keep that stance and to increase the pinion angle back "down" close to three degrees.
Does it increase if the front is dropped about the same amount? I was under the impression that the Shelby Mod increased the caster angle.
I'm not sure that the subtle drop I've done is enough to make that driveline a straight line from the trans to the third member, but I'll check into it.
Absolutely Andy, the shelby drop did increase the caster a little bit also ! How does it drive ? Did you feel any significant difference?
@@douglasknutsen The drive is better, but it's barely noticeable. The down side to all the mods I do is that it's one piece at a time, where sometimes it can be difficult to tell a difference, versus doing everything at once. The plus side to that is sometimes a single mod can drastically change the car, just not so in this case. :)
I'll look forward to your report on the pinion angle !
@@douglasknutsen Thanks Douglas for bringing that up. Would have not even thought about that. Good Call.
Gracias me ayudo mucho tu video... saludos desde México!
De nada. :)
Great video
Thanks!
This is perfect! I literally bought some rear shocks about 30 minutes before your video came out! Do you find that the lowering blocks affect the handling? Thanks again for doing these videos!!
I planned it that way. :)
The 1 inch blocks won't really do much with respect to handling, other than helping lower the center of gravity. I'd prefer not to have the blocks, but I was afraid the 2" drop Leafs would be too much at which point you can't go back without buying new leafs. It's a compromise I was willing to make. My longer tern plans for the car won't include the blocks, but that's a ways away and I need lots more money than I have now. :)
video magic lol love it
Haha, thanks!
The stance of the car looks great! I may have to use blocks to lower my rear as well. I'm sitting way high.
Thanks!
Thankfully the blocks are a cheap fix.
Good day Andy greetings from sydney Australia love the channel , how about a start up and drive video , with the new mods car looks great credit to you . Cheers
Thanks!
Coming soon, but we're buried in snow right now so it will be a while. :)
I noticed that your leaf springs are gray. I ordered mine from cj pony parts and they came in gray. Was going to paint them black but now I’m second guessing.
You can paint them if you’d like, it won’t hurt anything. For me it didn’t matter what color they were. 🙂
Hi Andy, what’s your thoughts on air shocks,? ours currently has air
I have heard it can damage the upper panel
Either way ; wanted to know why you didn’t go with air shocks
And how would we plug the current lines,?
Would I have to change the leafs if I removed air ?
Thanks again
From your California subs
Rich
I think there's a place for air shocks, but I don't know where it is. My first two Mustangs had them on the car when I bought it, but neither were functional (poor installation?). I've seen lots of cars with some form of air-ride suspension, and most of those people look like they know what their doing. But I do not recall seeing air suspension on performance cars (but I'm sure they're out there). I'm trying to take this build more towards the "canyon carving" direction, without spending it all on one component. I'll admit I've chosen a few parts purely on price, but I'm on a budget and I'm not building a show car or time-trial record setting race car. :)
I don't think you'd need to plug the current air lines, just remove them with the shocks. I briefly mention it in the video I made where I replaced the rear leaf springs on my previous mustang, back in the end of 2020. :)
Hey Andy another great video. where did you buy the long U-bolts and do you know which size exactly ?
Thanks!
I had a local company make them. The size I gave them was 2-1/4" wide, 5-1/2" long, 7/16-20 thread pitch. :)
My wheel/tire size is 15x7 4-1/2” bs with 215/60r15 on my 65’ Fastback. The rear rubs slightly when I have passengers. I have Koni adjustable shocks all the way around. Can I adjust them to be stiffer so they don’t let the rear drop so much?
Unfortunately that's not how that works. Those Koni shocks have rebound adjustment (affects how the shock performs after experiencing bumps in the road), but not height adjustment. They're more for dialing in comfort than compensating for passengers. One option is to slightly roll the quarter panel lips so the tires don't rub, but not everyone is comfortable doing that. A less desirable option to swap in some stiffer leaf springs. But this can get expensive and possible affect the comfort/handling of the car that is not the style you like. :)
I put the 5 leaf reverse from Scott Drake in my 68 yes they are firmer but not an issue, and my car is super low 1 inch lowering block - zero rubbing
I assume you didn’t try loosening the leaf springs while the car was up in the air, lowering it the ground and then tightening them back up?
This video was made way before I was told about the shackles.
@@AndyKruseChannel So what you’re saying is that there’s one more video to the rear suspension… 😜
@@swooshdave Hopefully there's a bunch more. The list is stupid, it's just the dollars holding everything up.
@@AndyKruseChannel Loosening the bolts is free. 😜
looking to do the same. how do you like the ride with the new shocks? stiff ride?
The ride is “normal”, meaning not stiff or soft. I was concerned that more of a Sport shock would be too stiff, but the kind of car I’m building could probably benefit from the next step up in shock stiffness.
can you buy 4.5 leaf spring with reverse eyes for a normal amount of money ?because i only see the reverse eye in 5 leafs version and i think it will give a harse ride so in my opinion the way yo did it 4.5 leaf mid eye with 1 inch lowering block is the perfect combo ( i wanna lower my mustang a bit lower so the tires are leveled with the wheel arches :-) i hope it will not give me problems whit that low of a car) :-)
nice stance , and yes please give us a short video where you film around the car so we can see the stance and tire and rim combo (a picture is not enough :-))
I'm not sure, I never looked into reverse eyes as I knew I didn't want to go that far with the Leaf Springs.
Agreed, pics are not enough. We're covered in snow right now, so putting together an outside-shot video isn't going to happen soon. But, we'll see what I can do. :)
What are the tire size ? 17 x 7 or 8 in the rear ?
All four tires are 225/50/16 on 16x7 wheels. :)
@@AndyKruseChannel thank you for replying ! I am currently shopping for 17” wheels So safe bet to say 225/50r17 on 7” wheel in rear would work but in the front since I don’t want to roll my fenders 205 or 215 do you suggest ?
A 225/50/17 will be a taller tire that what I have, you may find subtle fitment issues with it. A 225/45/17 for the rear would be a better fit. For the front, I would recommend the same size (but it may still rub), or drop down to 215/45/17. There are tire size calculator sites out there where you can put in your current size or stock size and compare it to your new size. It will provide the size difference as well as what the speedometer will read with a different tire over stock. Keep in mind, that if you change to a tire size that has a larger or smaller circumference than stock, you may need to change the speedo gear in the transmission to keep your speedometer accurate. :)
@@AndyKruseChannel ok thank you so much !
What’s next Andy?
More repairs, replacements, and upgrades!
How did it drive with the new shocks?
Better. There's not much to those shocks, no special valving or dampening, so I wasn't expecting much. I mostly did it because I have no interest in air ride stuff and I wanted to complete the rear suspension upgrade.
@@AndyKruseChannel I need new shocks cause mine are completely shot, and am weighing up these vs gas adjust
@@umangu If you're asking for my opinion, I'd say just get the normal shocks unless you are racing the car on the track. Being able to adjust the damper and/or rebound in these cars really only sees a benefit after you've spent some time and money reworking the rest of the suspension components (springs, sway bars, panhard bar, subframe connectors, etc). :)