I am 58 years old, and when I was your age my Dad gave me a 65 Mustang, and did everything. I destroyed it when I was 20. Now that I have the money I bought my own, and am learning from you in how to work on it. You two are a great imspiration and its great to see you two doing something that you both love to do....Keeep it up....
Jeff is a great resource. His videos have helped me through a lot of projects on my car. When I removed the old shocks on the rear of my Mustang, I used a chain wrench to hold the old shock in place as I removed the nut. It worked really well. I used it to hold the new shock in as I installed it as well. I wrapped the new shock with a towel to prevent it from getting scratched up. You could probably use a pipe wrench as well. Good work as always. Keep em coming.
Good Job Guys! Lisle 20400 Shock Absorber Tool or similar can be helpful sometimes. You can hold the Shock Stem and turn the nut. Recheck the rubber bushes after they have settled in just to be sure everything is still secure and solid.
Once again you two persevered, I have a tip for you, sometime when you can't loosen a rusty nut, try tightening it a bit, then loosen, the rust will break away, and then the penetrating solvent will help the rest of the way.
Jeff's bushing advice makes sense. The lower mounts are heavy steel plate, but the upper mounts are thin sheet metal. The large diameter bushings will better distribute the stress on the upper mounts than the smaller ones.
Ive just noticed that the USA falcon has only 3 leaves in the rear suspension, Australian ones have 4 on sedans, 5 on wagons and 7 on utes, no doubt this is to cope with our roads that were pretty bad back in the day, and that fact that we used our cars for towing a lot. The olds shocks will be non gas, everything now has gas shocks. The gas is used to pressurise the oil so that there is damping the instant the piston moves. In the old shocks the piston could move quickly enough to leave the oil behind, this meant that there was a small amount of un damped movement.
I’ve definitely had the experience of: Is this better? I can’t tell for sure. Well, I’m definitely not putting the old parts on, so I guess we’re good then. :)
Another tip that learned when I worked on cars. You only need to tighten the nut enough to squeeze the bushings untill they are the same diameter as the washers. That was in the instructions that came with the shocks. Yours didnt have them.
Those are definitely before gas charging was around so they were never able to extend on their own, I have seen them bypass fluid so fast that they would collapse under their own weight and extend when flipped over
OE shocks weren't nitrogen charged like new shocks are. To make replacement easier shops have a tool that screws onto the shock thread then you just break the bolt to remove the old shocks.
These are the first pair of shocks I've ever put in and thought about, but they seem to be doing well and Carl doesn't rock side-to-side anymore on the highway. Hope that helps.
I am 58 years old, and when I was your age my Dad gave me a 65 Mustang, and did everything. I destroyed it when I was 20. Now that I have the money I bought my own, and am learning from you in how to work on it. You two are a great imspiration and its great to see you two doing something that you both love to do....Keeep it up....
No better resource then Jeff Ford
He da man Good job
My hats off to dad. You and your daughter are doing a great job.
Jeff is a great resource. His videos have helped me through a lot of projects on my car. When I removed the old shocks on the rear of my Mustang, I used a chain wrench to hold the old shock in place as I removed the nut. It worked really well. I used it to hold the new shock in as I installed it as well. I wrapped the new shock with a towel to prevent it from getting scratched up. You could probably use a pipe wrench as well. Good work as always. Keep em coming.
Those are really great ideas! Thank you so much for the tips!!
Good Job Guys! Lisle 20400 Shock Absorber Tool or similar can be helpful sometimes. You can hold the Shock Stem and turn the nut. Recheck the rubber bushes after they have settled in just to be sure everything is still secure and solid.
Once again you two persevered, I have a tip for you, sometime when you can't loosen a rusty nut, try tightening it a bit, then loosen, the rust will break away, and then the penetrating solvent will help the rest of the way.
That is a GREAT tip! Thank you so much! We'll definitely try that next time!!
Jeff's bushing advice makes sense. The lower mounts are heavy steel plate, but the upper mounts are thin sheet metal. The large diameter bushings will better distribute the stress on the upper mounts than the smaller ones.
When taking off the old shocks you can put a pipe wrench on the bottom part of tube to keep it from spinning .
Good work 🙂
Ive just noticed that the USA falcon has only 3 leaves in the rear suspension, Australian ones have 4 on sedans, 5 on wagons and 7 on utes, no doubt this is to cope with our roads that were pretty bad back in the day, and that fact that we used our cars for towing a lot. The olds shocks will be non gas, everything now has gas shocks. The gas is used to pressurise the oil so that there is damping the instant the piston moves. In the old shocks the piston could move quickly enough to leave the oil behind, this meant that there was a small amount of un damped movement.
Jeff Ford is how I found out about you two and your great channel
Enjoyed! Keep up the good work.... Looking good!
Thanks so much!!
@@ElliesGarage 👍
1:10 was amazing content
There's PB Buster on the camera still. Lol! That stuff really works.
😂😂😂
Those shocks will be good for another 50 years. :)
It saves time on rounded bolts and nuts
Now new shocks good Job ❤️👍❤️
Great job, the car will ride like a Cadillac now..
YES! It feels so much better now!
Shocking 🤦🏻♂️😜😅🤣
Yea your shocks were shot, nice job...!
I’ve definitely had the experience of: Is this better? I can’t tell for sure. Well, I’m definitely not putting the old parts on, so I guess we’re good then. :)
Right?!
The original shocks were hydraulic oil-filled type. They dont act like the modern gas-filled type available today.
That's good to know. Thanks!
Another tip that learned when I worked on cars. You only need to tighten the nut enough to squeeze the bushings untill they are the same diameter as the washers. That was in the instructions that came with the shocks. Yours didnt have them.
Cheap pipe wrenches are great
Do you know if you show as found has left in your videos Would be a little less confusing
Those are definitely before gas charging was around so they were never able to extend on their own, I have seen them bypass fluid so fast that they would collapse under their own weight and extend when flipped over
Ok gotcha. That make sense. Thanks for that info!
OE shocks weren't nitrogen charged like new shocks are. To make replacement easier shops have a tool that screws onto the shock thread then you just break the bolt to remove the old shocks.
Are these shocks to your liking? I have tot get a new set myself. If these are satisfactory i might go Monroe
These are the first pair of shocks I've ever put in and thought about, but they seem to be doing well and Carl doesn't rock side-to-side anymore on the highway. Hope that helps.
its suppose to stay down,, new shocks are gas charged,,, also a set of big channel lock plyers makes it a simple job
Yeah those old shocks were doing nothing.