How To Shelby Drop
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 15 มี.ค. 2021
- How To Shelby Drop
How to do a Shelby Drop on a Mustang, Falcon, Fairlane, Torino, Maverick Comet, Montego Cylcone, Cougar
Episode 115
We dive into droping the upper control arms on the 1965 Ranchero using the Akerman Shelby Drop. We show tools tips and trick for a smooth install.
jford@autorestomod.com
www.patreon.com/gasolinemedia
Parts:
opentrackerracing.com
Upper Control Arm Drop Template 1″ (1965-1966) MUSTANG '60-'65 Falcon: ORP-1029
opentrackerracing.com/product...
Grease Fitting Extenders
opentrackerracing.com/?attach... - ยานยนต์และพาหนะ
Wow, I may actually be the first one this time 😁
It is SO worth spending the $15 for the template - it’s stress free. Plus you’re helping out a small business at the same time - John is great to work with. He has a wealth of knowledge with regards to Ford suspensions plus he and his wife drive Falcons 😉
John IS a wealth of knowledge. And I really like that thought line Rob!
Man, Jeff- you just keep it up with the timing for me. I literally spent the last hour POR-ing upper/lower control and steering arms with a first coat. Different than Ford stuff, but it's motivating me more all the same! Good vid!
Glad to help
Thank you Jeff, I have been waiting to see someone I trust do this "mod". My 67 fastback will be getting this done asap.
Cool! Glad to hear it!
Having done this on several makes and models I use a steel rule, centre punch and drill. It does work, factory models in the late 70s lowered the top wishbones.
On Falcons going lower again for racing helps a little
I love your videos. You guys are class acts too. I think everytime ive commented or asked a question you have always responded & answered. I really appreciate that. Still got time for us lil guys. I can't even get my girlfriend to give me a response most of the time!Great job guys.
Flowers, more flowers. Thanks, we appreciate the kind words!
I got my template and roller idler arm from open tracker racing for my 67 mustang today can't wait.
And now you know edzacary how to install it!
Thanks for the video! I need to do this drop
Any time!
Anyone deciding to do this, while you have all the control arms out do yourself a favor and get the shock tower strengthening plates. Have them welded in. Mustangs are known for weak shock towers. This drop is a must for early model Mustangs.
Great video 👍
Thanks 👍
Just got this kit in the mail today for my 68 Cougar. 😂 doing the whole front end and thought “why not”
Indeed!
How did it work for you?
My control arms on my 68 Torino are pretty funky so I ordered a SPC 94210 which has a Shelby drop already built into the new upper control arm this way you don’t have to drill any new holes and it also has additional positioning for the upper ball joint so that you could have adjustments on that also. I did go with the better quality Moog lower control arm and Moog tire rod ends and all other suspension components. I also used SPC83160 camber adjustment bolts and Global West strut rod bushings SRB5
Presently stripping the whole wheel well area out to bare metal and will be doing Por15 shortly.
I almost forgot I’m going with the Open Tracker roller spring perches also.
Should work great!
I was thinking going his route on my 69 Torino also, do you think it would be worth the extra money or just rebuilt my stock upper control arms and drill the holes? I was thinking about my caster also.
Nothing wrong with making them yourself.
BTW, in Australia, we've been doing a similar mod to our Holdens since the 1950s.
Nope, but $15 insurance against my bad drilling skills is cheap.
Thanks for the video very good
Thank you too
@@AutoRestoMod G'morning.
Are some kits designed to permanently install the plate and others the plate is only used for a guide to locate the new lower drill holes? Also do you have a video showing this kit being installed on a 1969 Mach !? thank you for your help.
Jeff I may need you to testify on my behalf. After watching so many of your videos I decided to get serious about doing a couple mods on my 66 Fairlane. I bought the car in ignorance cause I fell for the “it’s an original GT 390 car that had the engine swapped for fuel economies sake”
I figured since someone already went to the trouble of making it look like a Z code car I might as well make it run like one. So
I came across a coyote engine, tranny, and all the fixings out of a 2020 mustang and am going to yank the 289 that she has in it now and do a serious restomod. Only problem is I dropped 10 grand on all the stuff and forgot to ask my wife how she felt about such a large purchase. When she found out naturally I done the only thing I could think of and blamed it on you and all your videos. Jeff never asks his wife about anything in his videos…..
did a paper template, worked just fine.
I never have any luck with that.
I used same DeWalt, until battery died and then used corded one. Had to special order last bit like you said.
My template came with coil over conversion, was not quite a straight drop, their bolts were a little closer as well.
Cool.
Here is my modification to this. I did exactly what Jeff is doing and yes use the 17/32nd bit. . Than when I put new upper control arm bushings in the arms I shifted the shaft back about an 1/8th of an inch giving me a little more caster. Than I took a new 1968 big block coil spring, cut one third of a coil and installed. I than installed new KYB shocks. The result, the car sits level (no nose dive). Second the amount of shimming is almost nothing. It is almost hard mounted. Jeff at Gran Torismo in Atlanta aligned the car with me sitting in it. And I get no tire rub. One inch front sway bar and rear 11/16th Stan Bar, both with adjustable hime joints. One extra half leaf on the rear. I also welded extra 1/4" steel below the spring perches for extra strength. All othe bushing polyurethane. I added a tower and Monte Carlo shock mount tower braces. I have taken it many laps aroung Road Atlanta. Any thing I do to this car I want it to be a sleeper, and look bone dead stock. Even the track tech at Road Atlanta didn't know I had a Tremec 5spd, because did a mod using the original factory Z-bar and clutch linkage. So is it worth it? Oh yes. On turn one at Road Atlanta, I out cornered a 1985 GT Mustang, who skidded off the track.
Interesting mod!
Yes on the Template ! No on the drill speed ! For everyone, reduce that drill bit speed by a lot and increase pressure. When cutting metal, heat is bad. Try it, you'll see..
67 ranchero I'm doing a drop and running into problems getting the a arm to fit into the lower position. The tower gets narrower towards the bottom and the bushing nut is hitting the back area of the tower and won't let the arm go into the new lower location. I used the 67 and newer version of the template. Is the Ranchero version of the heavy duty, I noticed the auto kraft site had a heavy and regular duty version.
This mod has been around for a very long time. Has anybody done a back to back comparison of before and after to see what the performance difference is if any that is readily noticeable?
HI Jeff, I purchased the SSBC 4 piston caliper conversion set and the Autokrafter spindles for my 65 Ranchero V-8 289. If I do this drop, should I go straight 1" down since there is a offset spindle being used? Should I get the 67-70 template?
How do you know what side faces front and back?
Does a Shelby drop move control arms back towards driver
Would this also work on a 66 Thunderbird?
All videos talk about putting the Shelby drop but what does it do exactly?
Seems like you could add caster when you relocate the upper control arm.
You can.
Jeff, LOVE your videos! I am planning to do the Shelby drop on my 65 mustang with an Open Tracker blueprinted UCA but have found myself with a question I can't seem to find a good answer for, I am hoping you may have the answer. In episode 82-83 you did a Shelby drop and installed a wedge kit, I noticed in this episode you didn't discuss the wedge kit and Open Tracker doesn't offer a wedge kit nor does it appear their UCA's have it already installed. Is there a reason for this? Does Open Tracker's upper ball join have the extra motion range that the wedge kit is trying to fix or would it be a good idea to add the wedge kit to the Open Tracker UCA as well? TIA for any light you can bring to this subject!
I actually finally found the answer to this question in your Falcon suspension upgrades video. You stated in that video a wedge kit is only required for a “Shelby R” drop. Again thank you so much for the helpful videos! You provide lots of information in great detail!
The wedge kit is only needed on the race drop. Opentracker doesn't use the 1 and 1/8th drop (race).
It is important to remove any burr developed by drilling. The hole will be clean from the drill, any de-burring should be done by using a flat file on each side keeping the metal thickness at maximum. Don't use a rotating countersink. You were very careful to only lightly countersink the edge. Others may not have that experience or skill, if they do both sides the hole diameter may increase.
Wish I knew about the Shelby drop back in '65 for my 2 + 2.
Great point!
Lucky me I have the TCP Upper Control Arms and the holes are 0.5" (per instructions) for Bolts 1/2-13 x 2-1/2" so no need to look for that 17/32 drill bit....ill attempt that mod next week so ill watch the video one more time before that. thanks
Yep most aftermarket arms are set up. There are some that drop the mount down too. This is for guys wanting the do the mod with stock arms.
I did the drilling then welded up the holes, finished off if grinder and painted the area. I drive my car hard so I didn't want to risk of cracking. plus it should be a full inch of drop.
Right on.
I remember
At 1 time, someone offered an upper control arm kit.
Is that used rubber bushings and eliminated The metal-to-metal.
And having to Grease.
The upper bushings dont know how it would efect handeling
How does the drop affect the amount of shims needed? Just did this on my 65 falcon and i have around 0 to -0.5 camber without any shims?
Could it be a miss match since i replaced the spindles with c3oa? (Po used 64 fairlane, the car is inline6 from factory)
Great channel! Thank you😊
If the Camber is zero wthout any shims, you are good to go. That is the magic number for street cars.
Stupid question: Does the arrow on the template point to the REAR or the FRONT of the car? ... AND does EVERY Manufacturer of Shelby drop templates, does the arrow point in the SAME direction? I bought a template from another manufacturer w/o any instructions and I don't want to misplace the holes.
On my 69 mustang if I install the Shelby drop will I need to change other parts like shocks or springs or will stock/original parts still work? Thank you
All your original stuff will work unless you go with the deeper 1 1/8 inch drop.
Can you use 1" lowing springs with this set-up on a 70 coupe?
Yes. but keep in mind that the lower you go with the stock steering the more bump steer you induce.
Most people have a budget, and they don't like spending money on things they think they don't need.
But you really CAN buy piece of mind. Usually it costs right around $15 😆 I would definitely spend the money and not have to second guess anything.
Zactly.
I own a 65 Mustang Fastback and I plan to put a 90 Mustang 302 and 5 speed in it. I would like to be able to take the 90 front end and narrow it and put it in the 65. Is this something that would be worth the effort? I am also considering buying an aftermarket Mustang 2 front end. If I go with the Shelby style lowering and stiffening it up with the 1" sway bar will it handle nearly as well as the Mustang 2 front end? Thanks for your help and your videos!
th-cam.com/video/8LtDUQlL6yI/w-d-xo.html
We discuss the differences on this episode of Manic Mechanic. If you need more in depth info, contact me at: jford@autorestomod.com
Thanks very much
Unfortunately while rebuilding my 1969 mustang and installing global west upper and lower tubular control arms these plates did not exist. I reinforce the shock towers ended as precise of a measurement as I could. At least the alignment shop thought everything came out well.
Glad it worked out. And Glad they have the template now.
I certainly understand the cost difference, BUT... the holes being that close, it seems like it would crack. Why not be safe and purchase shorter springs?
Can you weld the old holes?
Yes.
The template does do both sides right
Yes.
Looks like when installed you had to scratch the back side to get the bolt in.. or was that your wrench scratching? Just looks like it sits right up against the body while the other side has much more room.
On one side of the car it was absolutely dangerous close to the shock tower. I have had instances where the zerk fitting had to be clearanced in order to fit.
I have found articles saying they change suspensions in 67, is the Shelby drop needed or benefit a 68 Mustang?
It does help.
@@AutoRestoMod thankyou
will this be good for a 72 base model mustang .
I think that the '72 has better geometry.
6:49 link, name, or brand of reamer with handle...
Old Royal set from my dad's. The kit is a deburring kit. Amazon has heaps of them.
Hi, where can I buy these in Australia please?
I don't find any at the common places, You might do better contacting Opentracker.com via email and working it out with John.
This is something I'm thinking of doing on my 66 Fastback. What I've seen us the drop was 1" down and 1 eighth of an inch back.
You only went down, didn't go back at all.
Why?
That honestly depends on what car you're working on. 1965 the templates actually are down an inch I'm on an inch and back an 8th of an inch. The 1967 on up kit only drops the arm straight down because Ford had already done the 1/8 inch back set up from the factory.
So you don’t have to replace the entire apron? Looks good. That paint turned out nice too the rest should look god once ya clean it up more. I mean Logan clean it up.... is he upstairs talking to them girls again?!
He's out impressing them with his LaCross skills...
I know I should Google this but will ask anyway. I have a 73 mustang coupe. Would a Shelby Drop do anything for it or had Ford already corrected the issues by then? Edited: yelp just what I figured. They say Ford moved the control arm down starting in 71 Mustangs so the 429 would fit. Also since I am ghetto, I just drill a hole in the towers big enough to put a straight zerk and grease through it.
That was exactly my question also, i have a 73 mach1 and would like to know can you do a shelby drop for the 71- 73 mustangs??
Dang dood, them 90 degree grease fittings are only $6.99 for a pack of 8...LOL
@@AutoRestoMod heck that is 2.5 gallons of gas now days. 😂
What is the front to rear hole angle. Cougars are straight.
Not sure what you mean. The Cougar uses the other available plate.
@@AutoRestoMod cougar upper control arms are straight, both holes on same plane. mustangs have a forward rake to the control arm. one mounting hole is higher than the other making control arm angle away from spring [ lower towards front of vehical
Is there any use in doing this in a 67 mustang? Or was it only from the early ones?
It will make a difference. Though it is less extreme than on the 1965-66.
@@AutoRestoMod Oh ok. Thanks fire the clarification!
I have owned my 67 for 30 years. Did the Arnie drop 7 years ago. It doesn't drop it an inch, maybe 1/2 inch. Makes a huge difference with body roll and cornering. Drove a few months, decided to get rid of the saddles and coils springs and got some coil overs from Alden American. I can put it at any ride height and looks and feels great. (of coarse must do an alignment every time you change the height.) Make sure you align with no pos camber (camber -.5 - 0, caster +2.0 - +3.5, toe, 1/16 - 1/8 toe-in
Anyone deciding to do this, while you have all the control arms out do yourself a favor and get the shock tower strengthening plates. Have them welded in. Mustangs are known for weak shock towers.
Would this work on a 1970 Maverick?
For sure
I am still up in the air on this as I have been looking at aftermarket arms that have the drop engineered in.
That is an option.
SPC has the upper control arm with a 1 inch Shelby drop built in
Safety glasses my brother.
I put them on for the stuff that has wings...
@@AutoRestoMod it's the little pecker heads that get ya everytime.
*I'm going to buy them just to put on my kitchen table, next to the salt and pepper...*
Great idea!
it is a strange angle, it looks like the temp just took you down an inch and not back 1/8th I'm sure it did or you wouldn't do it
The templates are correct. It does go back a little bit. Keep in mind on the 67 up They are vertical.
parts links got buried, lol
A bit yeah
I would think that the holes go on top to lower didn't explain how it works
The holes go on the bottom to lower the back of the control arm to change the the arc of attack of the control arm. This wasn't an explanation video of how the Arning drop works So much as a video on how to do the job.
The video below actually goes in and explains how the Shelby drop works.
www.autorestomod.com/dodgestang-mustang-wheel-charts.html
Ahhhh...corded drill? What did I do with that? I know I had one. Because....well....cordless!
It's around here...somewhere....
I just did the drop, and the Mustang is one 1" lower.
Cool!
Shelby didn't do much beyond 66 cars and 68-69 cars were built by Ford and they didn't do that modification.
True. But the drop is still done by freedom loving Americans everywhere (and some Europeans, Aussies and Asians)
Weld them up
I find, step bits are garbage for thick material even if you use cut oil.
On a lot of bits you are absolutely right
Zerk! Zerkity zerk zerk zerk! Sorry!
Auto Parts Guy: A what? Me: A Zerk fitting. Auto Parts Guy: blank stare. Me: grease nipple. Auto Parts Guy: Oooooohhhhh.
CAMERON FOR PRESIDENT 2024!
We're gonna have to wait until 2032...
Soft rivets
Ok!
The Shelby Drop kinda sounds like a medical condition after a while 🤔
I'm sorry sir....it's...Shelby Drop....
NO! NOOOOOO!
@@AutoRestoMod haha. Definitely not a preexisting condition...I just want to know how much my insurance is going to cover 😰😅🇺🇸
I probably wouldn't pay $15 for that either. Just 3d print one. It'll cost like 2 cents and be just as accurate.
I’m a huge fan of 3D printing but I wouldn’t use it for this application. The reason is that the 1/8” hole is for locating the drill. If the drill starts to walk then it’ll chew right through the plastic. Then you’ll have to order the steel one 😉
@@robkallok77 just use the hole to center punch it
Thats true, a $300.00 printer and an hour of design time plus fillament and probably some cussing is much cheaper than $15...😆😆😆😆😆😆😆😆