Thank you so much John! I really appreciate the detail in this video. I was about ready to beat this thing with a stick until I found this video and followed your advice, which lo and behold worked wonderfully!
Thank you so much for the positive comment. I have not tried other paint mixtures or different nozzle sizes, since I found something that worked. I am still doing it as shown. I would also like to hear comments from others that have successfully used different viscosities and different nozzles. Thank you again for your comment and I am glad the video helped you.
Fantastic breakdown for anyone taking initial preparation seriously. I'm a novice painter doing some exterior renovations. Recently purchased the yt-191 and was looking for meatier reviews. Your tips on paint draining, thermal duration, and viscosity probably saved me hours of frustration. Top marks!
Thanks for watching and I am glad to hear this video might help you get going with your paint sprayer. Thank you for you kind words. I appreciate your comments!
Sorry so long, try to read all, as I am trying my best to help! I have an old horse barn made of cinder block and above that cinder block where the roof is pitched, I have a triangular wood section. My suggestion is to try opening the flow more so it doesn’t take so long to spray paint if you are using a thick latex paint. I did this with my exterior latex paint. I did dilute it with water to get the approximate 80 seconds of flow thru the black cup. With approximately 18 turns of the flow knob I got a nice even spray, no splotches, but very little spray, which would have taken a long time for me to paint that large top part of the barn. I opened the flow to only have about 10-12 turns and the sprayed amount increase, but so did the splotches. Being an old horse barn I just went ahead and sprayed with approximately 10 turns on the flow knob. Much to my surprise, once the paint dried, I could not see the splotches from standing on the ground. Even when standing on my scaffolding, I had to search for the splotches. So, maybe you could try turning the flow know more towards the positive sign if you want the job to go faster. Try this on the furthest not easily seen part of the fence and let it dry and see if you like it. If the splotches are too ugly for your taste, lower the flow until you get something you like. Thanks for the comment, watching my video and I wish you good luck.
Thanks for the pointers. I just picked up a similar sprayer from Buendio (700W model, looks almost identical and I bet they are all made by the same company). Curious about the overheating issue... when you say it happens on larger projects, what are we talking about (rough square footage wise)? I'll have to see if mine does the same. My bet it the small internal air compressor they have is working hard. BTW... I use Valspar latex stain blocker bonding primer... it is also very thick and works well for me. I think its the nature of the special coverage and ability to hide & prevent bleed-through. Thinning it down for the sprayer usually means I'll have to put on more that one coat, as opposed to brush/roller application.
Thanks for watching and commenting! I did not use my sprayer this past summer. I used it a lot last year for several projects. Sounds like you might be afraid to use yours for larger projects. I do not remember size of project where heat seemed to be an issue. My issue was too much heat, not burning hot, but uncomfortable, for bare hands. However, since I used rubber gloves, I did not have that big of an issue. Just seemed like that much heat was going to take its toll on the sprayer eventually. If I needed it today, I would not hesitate to pull it out and use it, big or little projects. I would buy another if my crapped out on me. I hope this helps. Good luck with yours.
Thanks John sir for the detailed video which I was looking for as a beginner. This video helped me so much to learn something new! Once again thank you for the part 2 also 😍👌🏻 (Sorry for bad English)
Thank you for watching and for the positive comment. I have used mine around 15 times now and if it just did not get hot, it would really be perfect. Last time I used it I sprayed around 100 square feet of several different pieces of plywood and it got very hot. I then cleaned it by spraying clean water through it and disassembling and brushing the individual parts it and it is still working great.
Thank you sir. Just had to take mine apart. Staining a fence for a customer and all of a sudden paint started pouring out the nozzle. Inside the head there is a black plastic threaded piece that screws down on top of a spring that had come completely out. But anyway, might want to clarify what you mean by 18 turns. I just counted and mine was completely out at 10 full turns. So I assume you mean 18 times moving it as far as one finger can at a time. Also, the o Ring inside my paint can somehow stretched out so big it wouldn't even seat inside the lid. Figured they had squished one that was too big in there. So I cut the excess out and reinstalled it. That sucker shrunk smaller again so that there was a 1 inch gap in the rubber seal. Have no idea how it's going that. Took it out, stretched it back to a full circle and super glue it, but it now leaks paint all over the tank.
Sorry to hear you are having problems. I am pretty sure I said several times that my flow knob turns from maximum were more like half turns. I tried several times showing how I turned the flow knob with just one finger and how I counted the approximate half turns with just a one finger turn. In addition, I was painting thick latex paint, not a stain. Stains are generally much thinner than a latex paint. That is when the viscosity cup comes in handy. It is big time winter here and I put all my latex paint away, so it won’t freeze. Put away around mid-October. Probably will not bring the paint and sprayer back out until late spring. However, I used my sprayer many times and I stuck with the viscosity, the 2.0 nozzle and the number of turns from maximum as stated and shown in the video and I never had a problem except for the O-ring breaking. The sprayer will get pretty hot to the touch if you take on a really big project. I do not care for how hot it gets, but for small furniture painting I have had good luck with mine. I have only used water base paints with mine and I have never tried a solvent base paint or solvent based stain. I would think it would be much harder to clean up with solvents. I showed my method of cleaning with water and that was the way I did it every time I used it. Was working great when I put it away for the winter.
Very well done, thank you for your time. How many minutes or how many sq feet can you paint before the gun gets hot? I agree, heat is not a good thing.
I wear those somewhat heavy-duty rubber gloves to protect my hands from paint, so a little hard to say. I have painted as many as 10 pieces that were around 4 to 6 square feet each. I generally run out of places to prop them up after 10 or I would probably do more. So around 40 to 60 square feet is the most I have done at one time and the barrel and the gun does get hot. Not so hot that I cannot hold it, but hot enough to feel the heat through the rubber gloves. So far after many uses, over 20 but less than 30 it is still painting fine. Probably the smallest size was only 10 square feet and the largest was 60 or bigger. No problems so far, except, see my updated description about the O-ring that broke. However, I fixed that and I am back in business. I still like the paint gun and glad I bought it. Did not like a brush as I always had brush marks. Did not like the finish of a roller and always felt I wasted a lot of paint when cleaning the roller or just threw the rollers away with a lot of paint left in them. Hope this helps!
@@johntube2525 thanks John for the info and the quick reply. I have a 25’ shed to paint. I may get this gun to paint the trim and roll the main part. Have a great day. RG
@@RG_sssSMOKING I like your idea to use a roller and the gun for trim. Hope the below helps. The 10 pieces I did were for furniture and needed a nice finish. I did paint the triangle shaped wood between my cinder block old horse barn and roof, with this gun. 36 feet wide by 8 feet high wood area. So, approximately 144 sq. ft. I used the 3.0 nozzle, almost Max flow, Glidden exterior latex paint with only 40 ml of water per 1000 ml paint. I did see splotches while painting, but I did not care since it was an old horse barn. Once everything was done and dry, it looked good from the ground. I really could not see the splotches when standing on the ground looking at the completely painted project. I also had to move my scaffolding three times during the project. So I imagine the gun cooled some. I kept some water and a cleaning brush handy to wipe down the nozzle where paint would build up on the nozzle before and after moving the scaffolding. I kept thinking, it is going to stop-up on me, but it did not. I did have to use soap and warm water to clean the parts, since moving the scaffolding made the job last much longer than my other small projects. I kept thinking, while cleaning the gun, I probably should have just cleaned the gun each time I had to move the scaffolding and made it a three-step job. Alternatively, perhaps this would have been a project to use a roller and an extendable handle for the roller, then touch up any missed spots. Hope this helps!
@@johntube2525 Yes this helps a great deal. I will use your measurements water to paint if I get this gun. I am thinking to do the trim with this spray gun first then coming back and rolling on the large surface and trim it out with a brush. Dose not have to be prefect, I would like to make it as easy as possible. Thanks for all of your help. RG
I've been painting interior doors with this sprayer and found many of the same things you did as far as viscosity. I ended up thinning my water borne enamal (SherwinWilliams Emerald) by about 15%. I think they recommend no more than 10 but it was too thick at that level. I was using the 2.5mm tip but I think I was only about 5-6 turns off of max. I may try the 2.0 tip and a few more turns to see if my splotching is reduced. Thanks for the detailed info. btw I'm just a homeowner/hobby woodworker not a professional painter.
That is so strange to me. Because the nozzles are all metal male threaded. They look like brass. Male threaded like a bolt. And the part they go into is metal female threaded like a metal brass nut. So, this part of the sprayer is all metal. I find it hard to figure out why it will not come apart. Mine is basically just like a metal bolt going into a metal nut. Yes, sometimes cross threading can happen even with metal bolts and nuts, but with coarse, not fine threads, it is rare. I am not sure what to tell you, except mine has been used extensively and is still working just fine for small projects. I always take the nozzle off and clean it and run that small brush, that came with mine, into the female threaded area to clean the threads as shown in Part 2 of my videos. I have no idea why yours is giving you this problem. Sorry cannot help you.
Thank you for the video! I just bought this spray gun and the same paint! I'm so happy to come across your video. I tried it last night and it was very splotchy. I'm excited to try your recommendation tonight. Thanks! PS - What distance do you recommend to spray from?
I came back to see if you had any more comments and of coarse I was hoping you had better results, more to your liking. Sorry I missed the PS yesterday. I went pretty close because I turned the flow down about 18 half turns. Probably about 3-4 inches, but I do move the gun pretty fast so I do not have paint build up and runs. I prefer to do multiple coats versus heavy coats that could possibly run. Just me. Did you like your results with these settings. I am guessing there could be many different settings with different nozzle sizes, different viscosity times and different flow rates. So far I am sticking with my settings. I also tried Kilz PVA drywall primer and I think I like it better than Kilz2. I had used joint compound to smooth out some MDF surfaces and especially the edges. Decided to try the PVA primer on the joint compound and so far I like it with the same settings.
@@johntube2525 Hey John, my apologies for the delay. Thank you for your response!! I hate to say I didn't have a good experience with this gun. To be honest it was very frustrating and the coats came out terrible regardless of the setting I went with. I ended up rolling it but I learned a lot so that's what I'm trying to take out of this. After this experience, yes, I agree multiple coats are the way to go! I like the Kilz2! At least I think I do? I don't really know what I'm doing (You should see my edges hahahah) :)
@@martin8401 Sorry the video didn’t help you get the paint job you wanted. I am thinking about making a Part 3 or perhaps just updating the description, because the large O-ring on the barrel of mine after using it 20 plus times finally broke. I know you gave up, but anyone seeing this should read my updated description regarding O-rings.
Thanks for subbing, I subbed to your channel a while back on the purple HF spray gun. My old Craftsman 25 gallon compressor stopped working right after that. So I bought the Yattich and it worked out for me. I finally saw some TH-cam videos on how to fix my compressor. I put new cylinder and new ring in my compressor and it is back to working, but winter is coming and I have moved all my paint from my old horse barn to my garage where I hope it does not freeze. I am probably done painting until spring. Thanks again.
Thank you so much John! I really appreciate the detail in this video. I was about ready to beat this thing with a stick until I found this video and followed your advice, which lo and behold worked wonderfully!
Thank you so much for the positive comment. I have not tried other paint mixtures or different nozzle sizes, since I found something that worked. I am still doing it as shown. I would also like to hear comments from others that have successfully used different viscosities and different nozzles. Thank you again for your comment and I am glad the video helped you.
Fantastic breakdown for anyone taking initial preparation seriously. I'm a novice painter doing some exterior renovations. Recently purchased the yt-191 and was looking for meatier reviews. Your tips on paint draining, thermal duration, and viscosity probably saved me hours of frustration. Top marks!
Thanks for watching and I am glad to hear this video might help you get going with your paint sprayer. Thank you for you kind words. I appreciate your comments!
This helped me a lot..I was about to give up on this this gun..
Thank you John, blonde female here making my first attempt on back fence today as man in the house is lazy!
Sorry so long, try to read all, as I am trying my best to help!
I have an old horse barn made of cinder block and above that cinder block where the roof is pitched, I have a triangular wood section. My suggestion is to try opening the flow more so it doesn’t take so long to spray paint if you are using a thick latex paint. I did this with my exterior latex paint. I did dilute it with water to get the approximate 80 seconds of flow thru the black cup. With approximately 18 turns of the flow knob I got a nice even spray, no splotches, but very little spray, which would have taken a long time for me to paint that large top part of the barn. I opened the flow to only have about 10-12 turns and the sprayed amount increase, but so did the splotches. Being an old horse barn I just went ahead and sprayed with approximately 10 turns on the flow knob. Much to my surprise, once the paint dried, I could not see the splotches from standing on the ground. Even when standing on my scaffolding, I had to search for the splotches. So, maybe you could try turning the flow know more towards the positive sign if you want the job to go faster. Try this on the furthest not easily seen part of the fence and let it dry and see if you like it. If the splotches are too ugly for your taste, lower the flow until you get something you like. Thanks for the comment, watching my video and I wish you good luck.
Just bought one. Thanks for making the video. Very informative.
Thanks for the comment and watching.
Thanks for the pointers. I just picked up a similar sprayer from Buendio (700W model, looks almost identical and I bet they are all made by the same company). Curious about the overheating issue... when you say it happens on larger projects, what are we talking about (rough square footage wise)? I'll have to see if mine does the same.
My bet it the small internal air compressor they have is working hard.
BTW... I use Valspar latex stain blocker bonding primer... it is also very thick and works well for me. I think its the nature of the special coverage and ability to hide & prevent bleed-through. Thinning it down for the sprayer usually means I'll have to put on more that one coat, as opposed to brush/roller application.
Thanks for watching and commenting! I did not use my sprayer this past summer. I used it a lot last year for several projects. Sounds like you might be afraid to use yours for larger projects. I do not remember size of project where heat seemed to be an issue. My issue was too much heat, not burning hot, but uncomfortable, for bare hands. However, since I used rubber gloves, I did not have that big of an issue. Just seemed like that much heat was going to take its toll on the sprayer eventually. If I needed it today, I would not hesitate to pull it out and use it, big or little projects. I would buy another if my crapped out on me. I hope this helps. Good luck with yours.
Very helpful John, thank you for the video, it really was great.
Thanks for watching and the nice comment.
Thanks John sir for the detailed video which I was looking for as a beginner. This video helped me so much to learn something new! Once again thank you for the part 2 also 😍👌🏻 (Sorry for bad English)
Thank you for watching and for the positive comment. I have used mine around 15 times now and if it just did not get hot, it would really be perfect. Last time I used it I sprayed around 100 square feet of several different pieces of plywood and it got very hot. I then cleaned it by spraying clean water through it and disassembling and brushing the individual parts it and it is still working great.
Exactly what I was looking for! Thank you
Thank you sir. Just had to take mine apart. Staining a fence for a customer and all of a sudden paint started pouring out the nozzle. Inside the head there is a black plastic threaded piece that screws down on top of a spring that had come completely out. But anyway, might want to clarify what you mean by 18 turns. I just counted and mine was completely out at 10 full turns. So I assume you mean 18 times moving it as far as one finger can at a time. Also, the o Ring inside my paint can somehow stretched out so big it wouldn't even seat inside the lid. Figured they had squished one that was too big in there. So I cut the excess out and reinstalled it. That sucker shrunk smaller again so that there was a 1 inch gap in the rubber seal. Have no idea how it's going that. Took it out, stretched it back to a full circle and super glue it, but it now leaks paint all over the tank.
Sorry to hear you are having problems. I am pretty sure I said several times that my flow knob turns from maximum were more like half turns. I tried several times showing how I turned the flow knob with just one finger and how I counted the approximate half turns with just a one finger turn.
In addition, I was painting thick latex paint, not a stain. Stains are generally much thinner than a latex paint. That is when the viscosity cup comes in handy.
It is big time winter here and I put all my latex paint away, so it won’t freeze. Put away around mid-October. Probably will not bring the paint and sprayer back out until late spring.
However, I used my sprayer many times and I stuck with the viscosity, the 2.0 nozzle and the number of turns from maximum as stated and shown in the video and I never had a problem except for the O-ring breaking. The sprayer will get pretty hot to the touch if you take on a really big project. I do not care for how hot it gets, but for small furniture painting I have had good luck with mine.
I have only used water base paints with mine and I have never tried a solvent base paint or solvent based stain. I would think it would be much harder to clean up with solvents. I showed my method of cleaning with water and that was the way I did it every time I used it. Was working great when I put it away for the winter.
Very well done, thank you for your time.
How many minutes or how many sq feet can you paint before the gun gets hot?
I agree, heat is not a good thing.
I wear those somewhat heavy-duty rubber gloves to protect my hands from paint, so a little hard to say. I have painted as many as 10 pieces that were around 4 to 6 square feet each. I generally run out of places to prop them up after 10 or I would probably do more. So around 40 to 60 square feet is the most I have done at one time and the barrel and the gun does get hot. Not so hot that I cannot hold it, but hot enough to feel the heat through the rubber gloves. So far after many uses, over 20 but less than 30 it is still painting fine. Probably the smallest size was only 10 square feet and the largest was 60 or bigger. No problems so far, except, see my updated description about the O-ring that broke. However, I fixed that and I am back in business. I still like the paint gun and glad I bought it. Did not like a brush as I always had brush marks. Did not like the finish of a roller and always felt I wasted a lot of paint when cleaning the roller or just threw the rollers away with a lot of paint left in them. Hope this helps!
@@johntube2525 thanks John for the info and the quick reply.
I have a 25’ shed to paint.
I may get this gun to paint the trim and roll the main part.
Have a great day.
RG
@@RG_sssSMOKING I like your idea to use a roller and the gun for trim. Hope the below helps.
The 10 pieces I did were for furniture and needed a nice finish. I did paint the triangle shaped wood between my cinder block old horse barn and roof, with this gun. 36 feet wide by 8 feet high wood area. So, approximately 144 sq. ft. I used the 3.0 nozzle, almost Max flow, Glidden exterior latex paint with only 40 ml of water per 1000 ml paint. I did see splotches while painting, but I did not care since it was an old horse barn. Once everything was done and dry, it looked good from the ground. I really could not see the splotches when standing on the ground looking at the completely painted project. I also had to move my scaffolding three times during the project. So I imagine the gun cooled some. I kept some water and a cleaning brush handy to wipe down the nozzle where paint would build up on the nozzle before and after moving the scaffolding. I kept thinking, it is going to stop-up on me, but it did not. I did have to use soap and warm water to clean the parts, since moving the scaffolding made the job last much longer than my other small projects. I kept thinking, while cleaning the gun, I probably should have just cleaned the gun each time I had to move the scaffolding and made it a three-step job. Alternatively, perhaps this would have been a project to use a roller and an extendable handle for the roller, then touch up any missed spots. Hope this helps!
@@johntube2525 Yes this helps a great deal. I will use your measurements water to paint if I get this gun.
I am thinking to do the trim with this spray gun first then coming back and rolling on the large surface and trim it out with a brush. Dose not have to be prefect, I would like to make it as easy as possible. Thanks for all of your help. RG
I've been painting interior doors with this sprayer and found many of the same things you did as far as viscosity. I ended up thinning my water borne enamal (SherwinWilliams Emerald) by about 15%. I think they recommend no more than 10 but it was too thick at that level. I was using the 2.5mm tip but I think I was only about 5-6 turns off of max. I may try the 2.0 tip and a few more turns to see if my splotching is reduced. Thanks for the detailed info. btw I'm just a homeowner/hobby woodworker not a professional painter.
The nozzle won’t screw out. It just infinitely screws but won’t come out.
That is so strange to me. Because the nozzles are all metal male threaded. They look like brass. Male threaded like a bolt. And the part they go into is metal female threaded like a metal brass nut. So, this part of the sprayer is all metal. I find it hard to figure out why it will not come apart. Mine is basically just like a metal bolt going into a metal nut. Yes, sometimes cross threading can happen even with metal bolts and nuts, but with coarse, not fine threads, it is rare. I am not sure what to tell you, except mine has been used extensively and is still working just fine for small projects. I always take the nozzle off and clean it and run that small brush, that came with mine, into the female threaded area to clean the threads as shown in Part 2 of my videos. I have no idea why yours is giving you this problem. Sorry cannot help you.
Thank you for the video! I just bought this spray gun and the same paint! I'm so happy to come across your video. I tried it last night and it was very splotchy. I'm excited to try your recommendation tonight. Thanks!
PS - What distance do you recommend to spray from?
I came back to see if you had any more comments and of coarse I was hoping you had better results, more to your liking.
Sorry I missed the PS yesterday. I went pretty close because I turned the flow down about 18 half turns. Probably about 3-4 inches, but I do move the gun pretty fast so I do not have paint build up and runs.
I prefer to do multiple coats versus heavy coats that could possibly run. Just me.
Did you like your results with these settings. I am guessing there could be many different settings with different nozzle sizes, different viscosity times and different flow rates. So far I am sticking with my settings. I also tried Kilz PVA drywall primer and I think I like it better than Kilz2. I had used joint compound to smooth out some MDF surfaces and especially the edges. Decided to try the PVA primer on the joint compound and so far I like it with the same settings.
@@johntube2525 Hey John, my apologies for the delay. Thank you for your response!! I hate to say I didn't have a good experience with this gun. To be honest it was very frustrating and the coats came out terrible regardless of the setting I went with. I ended up rolling it but I learned a lot so that's what I'm trying to take out of this.
After this experience, yes, I agree multiple coats are the way to go!
I like the Kilz2! At least I think I do? I don't really know what I'm doing (You should see my edges hahahah) :)
@@martin8401 Sorry the video didn’t help you get the paint job you wanted.
I am thinking about making a Part 3 or perhaps just updating the description, because the large O-ring on the barrel of mine after using it 20 plus times finally broke. I know you gave up, but anyone seeing this should read my updated description regarding O-rings.
johntube2525 oh it wasn’t your videos fault at all!! I reached out to the manufacturer because I believe mine was defective 🙃
Good stuf here John. Just subbed. Sadly I dont get a notification when someone replys to my reply. Wish I did. Stay well & safe!
Thanks for subbing, I subbed to your channel a while back on the purple HF spray gun. My old Craftsman 25 gallon compressor stopped working right after that. So I bought the Yattich and it worked out for me. I finally saw some TH-cam videos on how to fix my compressor. I put new cylinder and new ring in my compressor and it is back to working, but winter is coming and I have moved all my paint from my old horse barn to my garage where I hope it does not freeze. I am probably done painting until spring. Thanks again.
Jesus ! Get on with it