Nicely done! Yes I know this is 2 years old but wanted to add some of my observations. As per APE, they recommend Moving the engine forward to check tension after the device is installed, so finding TDC was a step I skipped. Additionally, it is imperative to check the degree of play with the old cam tensioner in to understand the baseline where your ticking is occurring. Plus, if you install the manual device to were it contacts the cam structures and decide to move the engine forward (ie turn the crank CCW) the top chain will get severely tight and bottom severely loose -which is very very disconcerting. If I had to do it over again, Id hand tighten to the stop and lock the adjuster at that point, not back it off a half turn (for at that level its ticking and loose). In my case i removed the APE device and let the tension completely slack off (with a 3/8 socket extension as a brace) and reinstalled. The bike started but ticked away, and I then turned off the bike and tightened the adjuster 1/2 turn, relocked, and restarted. I did this process several times until the ticking completely disappeared. Anywho, happy riding!
The method that i use is: I remove the old tensioner, and install the manual, and just hand tight the core as i turn the crankshaft, when i can't hand thight anymore and the crankshaft has done at least one revolution, i lock the nut on the cct. I diont think is necesary to turn back the tightness, because if you think about it... the oem tensioner what it does, its to apply tension as the shain stretches and doesnt turn back, so the idea is to simulate the same behavior.
excellent video, I just got a XSR 900 and was looking for a good video to do this mod, I found a couple of video one was decent the other one was a joke, yours is right on point, you can tell you are a serious person and very good at explaining the process, I am glad I found your video.
Hey man thanks for your post I'm having a "ticking" or smacking noise coming out of the left side of the heads on my zzr600 ninja and been seeing a LOT of people claimed cam shaft tensioner are notoriously bad in these models and MOST ninjas "tick" because people don't worry about it enough to replace them but i CAN'T stand it any longer i have another one EXACTLY the same model with NO issues so I KNOW it CAN be fixed lol
@Yrider what about blocking oil passage? In the installation instructions on ape website it says to do that before installing or it can cause low oil pressure.
Finding top dead center is absolutely necessary! For informational purposes if you don't find top dead center and you install a new cam chain tensioner your chain will not have the slack in it required to properly tighten it therefore you will end up throwing the timing of the bike off and blowing your motor ((always find top dead center first.))
Did you need to drain the oil on the bike before moving forward with the replacement? Looks like there was still oil in the sight glass, so guessing no?
I have a 2016 FZ-09 and I cannot get the new APE CCT installed. The bike frame is preventing me from getting it in the whole way. Thought or suggestions?
I even can not get the old one out! Wondering if there tensioner body needs to be compressed, shortened in order to be able to pull it out. Else I would need to unmount the whole engine from the frame...
There is a modification you can try if you loose tension on the automatic tensioner. The med requires a few nuts to hold tension down, you can find the mod online if you're interested. However I'd recommend you go the route of replacing the tensioner all together because it can lead to major issues if a modification goes bad.
Before I buy this part, I just want to make sure that this will fit my 2015 FZ09. If it fits your '14, there's no reason it shouldn't fit my '15, right?
Nice video a lot of information. I have a 2014 with 23k and I’m getting what I can only describe as a Hiccup. It doesn’t happen any specific rpm, but it is a little un nerving mid corner when you are doing Your best to be smooth and the bike shuts off for just a split second then comes back on. I’m hoping A CCT replacement will cure this. Any thoughts are greatly appreciated.
Why do you adjust the camshaft position for changing tensioner only.. i think you dont have to do that. you have to do when you changing camshaft chain becasue when you take it off the chain cam position will be changed..
Thanks mate for posting this, it been very helpful, I have just installed an APE CCT using this same process and have a question. While everything went right during the install (other than the guide pin coming out when I removed the cam chain cover but was immediately put back in) as a bit of a precaution I decided to give the engine a couple of manual cranks prior to starting it and heard an unnerving couple of clicks from the cam shaft area of the engine. I'm unsure as to whether this is just because the engine is being hand cranked or if I have a bigger issue i.e. valve contacting pistons or similar. I might be over thinking it since the guide was held under tension until the manual CCT made contact and then only ever backed out 1/2 a turn. I'm thinking I'll call the shop before starting it just in case. Did you do anything similar during your install regarding a couple of manual cranks of the engine prior to firing it up?
For anyone interested, I had my bike towed to the shop. The cams had skipped some teeth so it was lucky I didn't try to start it. Apparently wedging something in the chain guide doesn't necessarily keep enough tension on the chain at the cam sprockets 🤷♂️
In the future - always hand crank the engine in the CORRECT DIRECTION using a socket and wrench - ideally with the spark plugs out to make the engine easy to turn and feel for resistance, then crank the starter with the kill switch set to off to listen. You were really lucky!
I changed mine, sounded good. th-cam.com/video/2AXQjRS0Qbs/w-d-xo.html Next day sounded like this, what the heck is going on? th-cam.com/video/APbjsplOeR4/w-d-xo.html
Thank you sooo much, out of subject i found out this key is loose, waaay too lose i can almost turn it with my fingers, is it normal like that? i.ibb.co/FhwzCsm/engggg.jpg
![Valve Clearance | Cam Chain Tensioner | Yamaha Super Tenere Restoration [Part 12]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/ay0jfORh3TA/mqdefault.jpg)
Nicely done! Yes I know this is 2 years old but wanted to add some of my observations. As per APE, they recommend Moving the engine forward to check tension after the device is installed, so finding TDC was a step I skipped. Additionally, it is imperative to check the degree of play with the old cam tensioner in to understand the baseline where your ticking is occurring. Plus, if you install the manual device to were it contacts the cam structures and decide to move the engine forward (ie turn the crank CCW) the top chain will get severely tight and bottom severely loose -which is very very disconcerting. If I had to do it over again, Id hand tighten to the stop and lock the adjuster at that point, not back it off a half turn (for at that level its ticking and loose). In my case i removed the APE device and let the tension completely slack off (with a 3/8 socket extension as a brace) and reinstalled. The bike started but ticked away, and I then turned off the bike and tightened the adjuster 1/2 turn, relocked, and restarted. I did this process several times until the ticking completely disappeared. Anywho, happy riding!
4:16 This is a very important step, do not skip it or you'll be taking half the bike apart to retime the cams.
you dont need to adjust cam positon when you change CCT only.. waste of time i think.
When? I just need to know because I skipped this step 10000 miles ago and am wondering when you think it'll happen lol
The method that i use is: I remove the old tensioner, and install the manual, and just hand tight the core as i turn the crankshaft, when i can't hand thight anymore and the crankshaft has done at least one revolution, i lock the nut on the cct.
I diont think is necesary to turn back the tightness, because if you think about it... the oem tensioner what it does, its to apply tension as the shain stretches and doesnt turn back, so the idea is to simulate the same behavior.
excellent video, I just got a XSR 900 and was looking for a good video to do this mod, I found a couple of video one was decent the other one was a joke, yours is right on point, you can tell you are a serious person and very good at explaining the process, I am glad I found your video.
Thanks! Glad I could help with your installation!
@@yrider7906 hi, i have a 2012 r6. the ape cam chain tensioner was installed at a shop. when i need to adjust it soon, how do i do that?
Hey man thanks for your post I'm having a "ticking" or smacking noise coming out of the left side of the heads on my zzr600 ninja and been seeing a LOT of people claimed cam shaft tensioner are notoriously bad in these models and MOST ninjas "tick" because people don't worry about it enough to replace them but i CAN'T stand it any longer i have another one EXACTLY the same model with NO issues so I KNOW it CAN be fixed lol
Have you checked the valve clearances?
Love the attention to detail!
Excellent tutorial.
Did you block the oil passage since there is not hydraulic tensioner anymore?
Great video, next time is is good to start with WHY - why do or when should owners install this - miles, hard riding, fix a factory weakness??
thank for making this up from fz09 Thailand =)
@Yrider what about blocking oil passage? In the installation instructions on ape website it says to do that before installing or it can cause low oil pressure.
how is the tool to keep tension between blades called?
If mine rattles when cold should I tighten it up a bit?
Does this type of tensioner also fits the cp3 from 2022/2023?
Finding top dead center is absolutely necessary! For informational purposes if you don't find top dead center and you install a new cam chain tensioner your chain will not have the slack in it required to properly tighten it therefore you will end up throwing the timing of the bike off and blowing your motor ((always find top dead center first.))
Naw I didnt
So 2 questions. Why the first step? And do you have to drain any fluids for this procedure? Thanks! Great video.
Did you need to drain the oil on the bike before moving forward with the replacement? Looks like there was still oil in the sight glass, so guessing no?
No need to drain the oil, if you leave the bike on the kickstand you won't have to worry about the oil coming out.
What the differenze between original and manual tensioner? Where can I find both spare parts? I've a MT09 model year 2015- 2016, thanks!
How long did it take to replace? My local shop wants to charge me 3 hours labour for what looks like a 30 mins job.
Thx for the tip. Good luck on everything u did on bikes n videos.
Hello there! I have a ticking noise on my xsr 700, can be the chain tensioner? Thank you!
how do you adjust it after 1 or 2 years
Thanks a lot for this thorough job! Did you have to tight the bolt after adjusting the tension?
I have a 2016 FZ-09 and I cannot get the new APE CCT installed. The bike frame is preventing me from getting it in the whole way. Thought or suggestions?
I even can not get the old one out! Wondering if there tensioner body needs to be compressed, shortened in order to be able to pull it out. Else I would need to unmount the whole engine from the frame...
Is there a way to reset the auto tensioner if for some reason it goes slack?
There is a modification you can try if you loose tension on the automatic tensioner. The med requires a few nuts to hold tension down, you can find the mod online if you're interested. However I'd recommend you go the route of replacing the tensioner all together because it can lead to major issues if a modification goes bad.
@@yrider7906 Just ordered a graves unit. Thanks
is there something wrong with the stock one?
Before I buy this part, I just want to make sure that this will fit my 2015 FZ09. If it fits your '14, there's no reason it shouldn't fit my '15, right?
14-16 are all the same. 17-19 probably are too, but not 100% on that.
Can I install it in tracer 700 2017- cp2 700 cc engine??
Is there any gaskets that needs replaced when you take the right side cover off?
I’m wondering the same thing. Will there be any leaking issues?
As long as you are careful when removing and tightening the screws you shouldn't need to replace the gasket.
Yrider Is there oil behind that right side cover?
Nice video a lot of information. I have a 2014 with 23k and I’m getting what I can only describe as a
Hiccup. It doesn’t happen any specific rpm, but it is a little un nerving mid corner when you are doing
Your best to be smooth and the bike shuts off for just a split second then comes back on. I’m hoping
A CCT replacement will cure this. Any thoughts are greatly appreciated.
If the bike runs, your bike is more than likely in time. What I believe your issue may be is the thrittle bodies being out of sync.
I have a mt09 tracer 2015 can you provide the part number please ?
Which better than original auto tensioner? Or this is better then original... Im form malaysia where can i get this thing
With this work on a 2017 fz-09 same part number and everything for cam chain?
Yes.
sounds like a dumb question but does the oil need to be drained first for this install?
Lean it over on the kickstand and you should be fine without draining.
i just pulled my old one out and stuck the new one in. :D
My used bike came with this installed. How do I know how much and how often to tighten it?
If you hear the cam chain clicking like a BB in a can, it's too loose. If it sounds like its whining it might be too tight.
Why do you adjust the camshaft position for changing tensioner only.. i think you dont have to do that. you have to do when you changing camshaft chain becasue when you take it off the chain cam position will be changed..
Did u have to drain oil first? :)
No need to drain the oil first, if the bike in on the kickstand you should have no issues with oil falling out.
Why would you install a manual tensioner?
Thanks mate for posting this, it been very helpful, I have just installed an APE CCT using this same process and have a question. While everything went right during the install (other than the guide pin coming out when I removed the cam chain cover but was immediately put back in) as a bit of a precaution I decided to give the engine a couple of manual cranks prior to starting it and heard an unnerving couple of clicks from the cam shaft area of the engine. I'm unsure as to whether this is just because the engine is being hand cranked or if I have a bigger issue i.e. valve contacting pistons or similar. I might be over thinking it since the guide was held under tension until the manual CCT made contact and then only ever backed out 1/2 a turn. I'm thinking I'll call the shop before starting it just in case. Did you do anything similar during your install regarding a couple of manual cranks of the engine prior to firing it up?
For anyone interested, I had my bike towed to the shop. The cams had skipped some teeth so it was lucky I didn't try to start it. Apparently wedging something in the chain guide doesn't necessarily keep enough tension on the chain at the cam sprockets 🤷♂️
In the future - always hand crank the engine in the CORRECT DIRECTION using a socket and wrench - ideally with the spark plugs out to make the engine easy to turn and feel for resistance, then crank the starter with the kill switch set to off to listen. You were really lucky!
Why didn't you start it.
You will do massive damage to your motor if the chain can’t flex with higher rpm everyone thinks there a engineer,stupidity 😮
I changed mine, sounded good. th-cam.com/video/2AXQjRS0Qbs/w-d-xo.html
Next day sounded like this, what the heck is going on? th-cam.com/video/APbjsplOeR4/w-d-xo.html
Got to be one of the worst aftermarket gimmicks produced.
Thank you sooo much, out of subject i found out this key is loose, waaay too lose i can almost turn it with my fingers, is it normal like that?
i.ibb.co/FhwzCsm/engggg.jpg