Lmao were you fuckin around or just mowing with it? If a belt broke during regular use that doesn't warrant an ass whoopin, but if you were fuckin around being stupid......yup
Your welcome, I really try to show the easiest way of doing this stuff for people just like you or people that don't have alot of wrenching experience.
Thank you so much for the video. Saved me a lot of money to get a pulley replaced and getting the drive belts changed. Gonna cost me 400 for the service. Thank you very much again Sir 🙏🙏
Much obliged for the tutorial, sir. Being a weekend warrior when it comes to DIY repairs, I normally don't comment, but this video was extremely helpful. First cut of the year and the mower drive quit. Purchased the bronco last year (a 2008). The upper belt disintegrated. Lower belt was in poor condition. Got them both replaced in 24 hrs. Thank you brother!! God bless.
I was going to pay a mobile repair guy to do the job for me. He cut off the belt, left and is trying to tell me "he can't get the right belt". I got one on Amazon in 2 days. Called him up and said "I have the belt", let me know when you want to install it. "I hear crickets" (he's ghosting me now). I guess he gave up. So, watching your video, I know what I need to do if he keeps blowing me off. The biggest problem is doing it on the ground so I think I'll tilt one side up and put it on blocks to repair. Thanks for making the job seem clear.
Putting the new belt on the back pulley (about 10:50) was not quite so simple on my Bronco. I have bruises on both of my old arms but the pulley was just too close to the chassis to get the belt on.. I did find a simple way, but no one on any TH-cam video explained this solution. So if you have problems like I had just contact me and I will be glad to share the solution.
I watched the video of you putting the 2 drive belts on the troy built bronco riding mower what are the 2 lengths of the belts you replaced Thank Yoi for your help Lacy
Thank you Lacy for watching the video. I'm sorry but I don't remember what the belt length were..it's been a couple of years but if I remember there should be a sticker on the tractor that gives the part numbers.
Thanks for the video; it is very helpful. One of my friends moved up to a zero turn mower and orphaned the machine I now have along with a bad drive belt and an engine oil leak so now I have a project...lol!
It's been a couple years since I've worked on one of those and I don't have one available to get pictures of. If you look around there should be some rub marks where they hook to. Sorry I couldn't be more helpful.
great video to get me through the basics. My troy built is a super bronco and there were just a few differences compared to your video. for those that have a super bronco, the rear variable speed pulley has 3 bolts that hold the assembly in place. the bolts are located outside the frame by the rear tire. just loosen all 3 and it allows the belt to slip into the pulley. also the idler pulley has no spring and need to be unbolted and the whole pulley and guide come off. The last difference is there are 3 small bolts with guides that are bolted in the under carriage that help guide the drive belt. those also have to be removed to facilitate feeding the belt between the floor of the frame and the pulleys. You can unbolt them from under the tractor through holes. they are where the drive belt is located. thanks for the video, very helpful. Belt change out went as planned.
Thanks for posting, the three bolts are all the same size on the drivers side rear. This does let you cock the pulleys making it easy to slip the belt on between the frame. Do not remove them, just loosen them all a little bit at a time. The other issue that I had to work around was getting the belt past the guard on these pulleys--you have to get it around the back and then PULL it through (towards the front of the mower).
Just bought a used Bronco, my arthritis decided 3 acres was no longer a thing. That critter has been one thing after another. Blades, battery and now it sent me to this video. Y'all definitely have my subscription cause it looks like I will be a frequent viewer. Best of all, I just bought a really nice rear wheel drive self propelled. Need em both, the lawn grows like mad here in southwest Florida!
I got a new Craftsman T 140 and the dam drive belt keeps jumping off. EVERY THING IS NEW. So i just park it. Would you? Or any body know by chance know what the problem might be? I kinda think the idler pull bracket is bent. LOOK LIKE THE ONLY THING THAT IT COULD BE I have people saying there done the same thing. I just told them! I parked the dam thing! Fixing to use it for parts for my pony
I've had other people tell me they had the same issue also when they used aftermarket belts. The aftermarket belts just don't fit right or it may be a belt guard that isn't in just the right spot.
@@PullerbearEd Thanks. Every thing is the same new stuff. the day i bought it. i only mowed with it 2 X. I'am just going to put it back on. Jack it up and see what going on.
@@PullerbearEd 1 person said to check the transmission mounts > Way to test it was? Take the battery out put into gear. Move it back and forth. If the transmission move up and down> Its the transmission mount that is broke ~ That could be it to! But its the drive belt that keeps coming off
@@PullerbearEd I Agree it is. 👍👍Just trying to fix my problems, and help others with the same problems. Craftsman and Troy bult Tect don't know what going on. Cheers buddy
I enjoyed the video. Gave me good starting point. Due to the body seam being too big I had to remove the pulley above the trans because there was not enough clearance to remove or replace the lower trans belt. Also because of a belt keeper on the small pulley that the tension spring attaches to I had to loosen that pulley from below to obtain clearance to remove upper trans belt. My mower is exactly like the one in the video and even has the Lowes sticker on it, so there must be a bit of variances in the body when built.
Yes they are built on an assembly line and sometimes they make the parts fit or it could be a slight difference from year to year. Thank you for watching.
hey there @ about 11:58 you moved that idler pulley arm i think its called isnt there suppose to be a spring attached to it and then to the frame? Mine is missing wondering if you can confirm that there is suppose to be a spring there. thanks
@@PullerbearEd If you have a video or photo showing where that spring goes that would be great I even took it to a lawn mower repair shop and they couldnt figure out where the spring attaches.
I'm sorry I don't have that information. It has been over 3 years since I had this one in my shop. I think there is a sticker somewhere on it that has that information
Great video and much appreciated! After replacement of the upper and lower drive belt the tractor with power at idle, the tractor creeps ahead and brake will not stop the tractor. I have to shift it into neutral. Looks like other people have had the issue. I will remove the upper belt and lube the tensioner arm attachment point. Is this what you recommend? Thanks!
The belt will stretch over time yes. Check the variable speed pully to make sure it moves freely up and down and also that it doesn't have groves worn into it.
How long a belt did you put on there? The part number on my hood is 954-0467 and it’s supposed to be 90.8 inches according to Troy built website however, my belt is way too long it’s not tight and I don’t know what size to put on there.
Honestly I don't remember. It's been a few years since I did it. I want to say I used the part number from under the hood. Sorry I couldn't be more help.
Hello, this is a very educational video. I just bought a Troy Built Bronco. 20 hp courage, 42" cut. Garage kept. Very nice mower. But it seems like it is going faster in reverse than in forward drive. I was thinking of starting with the drive belt. Would really appreciate any insight on this issue.
i have the same mower, my question is there some kind of spring system or something that goes to gas pedal? cut the mower sharp an the back tire hit the bumper of my truck an lost all the play in gas pedal, if you could please help, thank you
Have the same mower like the one there that u showed bit mine doesn’t have the spring on the tensioner pulley my guess it never had one or at least that I know of any ideals???
I can’t get the bolt from the spindle/drive pulley from under the motor off. Even with my impact. It’s just a small 1/4” drive but it should be enough. Any suggestions?? I came to your tube to see if anyone had this problem and I haven’t seen any
The 1/4 impact may not have enough striking force to break it loose. If you have a 1/2in breaker bar try putting that on it and shocking loose with a heavy hammer, I have had to do this a few times to get it broke free.
It's rare to find a video that relates to exactly what your doing/working on thanks. My lower drive belt broke and my 20volt impact didn't have the torque to get it off. Also was not sure whether it was right loose or left loose threads.
Very helpful video. If you don’t have an impact tool handy to pull the engine pulley, simply work the starter gear up by hand until it engages with the flywheel. Then place a penny or other soft metal between the gears of the starter and flywheel to hold the engine from turning over while you loosen/tighten that 5/8” pulley bolt.
NEED HELP ASAP!!!!!i changed the drive belt on my craftsman t 1300 lawn tractor/troy built. NOW WHEN I PUT IT IN FORWARD, THE MOWER MOVES WITHOUT pressing the gas petal. ANY IDEA WHAT I DID WRONG? any help would be great, thanks
I'm not really sure if you tractor has a standard transmission or avaliable speed. Check the tension on the drive belt if it is too tight it can't slip when in neutral.
I have a variable speed.a gas petal on the Right side.and a brake on the left.is it best to change the upper and lower belts at the same time? And where do you suggest I get the belts from? I've used Sunbelt and rotary belts. Think these belts are too small.Any info would be great.thanks again
My Troy Bilt Bronco (2005) doesn't really require removing the rear pulley. It's not in the owners manual, but there are a couple of bolts on the rear left frame: loosening one or two of them (I don't recall the specifics) allows enough slack to install the belt without having to use an impact wrench to remove the pulley.
Sometimes there is a sticker on the bottom side of the footrest, I'll try and find it on the internet and post a picture of it on my community tad. I might take a couple of days so please be patient.
On my TB Super-Bronco: I had to loosen up the 3 bolts to the variable speed pulley assembly where the upper & lower belts run to get enough room to get the belts on / off. Also, instead of trying to take the heavy duty spring off (and back on) of the idler pulley for the upper belt, I rigged up a binder strap around the back of the tractor and compressed the spring that way to finish up the upper belt install. There's also a belt retainer screw & bushing that had to come off to get the old belt off, new one back on. It's accessible through a hole strategically drilled on the bottom 'skid' plate. Putting the mower deck back on was painful too until I shimmed up the front about 2", then was able to get the rear pins installed. All in all, what a pain to replace these belts, but I'm appreciative of this video, thanks.
My Bronco is the same with the belt guard on the variable speed pulley , & the pully for the clutch assembly, This is the closest and best video. I wanted to refresh my memory on the belt route at the clutch, been a week waiting on a pulley
Would a chewed up worn out drive belt cause this same mower to move even after releasing the pedal? I can stop mine with the brake in neutral but in forward or reverse it just keeps going, even with the brake applied.
Very awesome glad to see it is just like how I’ve done it once before on my 2006 Husskee 25 hp i’m looking for helpful information on getting tie rods when I go in reverse both of mine front tires bow in.
I honestly don't remember what it is. I do know I got the belt from my local dealer and it was an OEM belt because some of the aftermarket ones do not fit correctly.
I'm sorry I don't remember right off hand. It was a customer's tractor. But I believe there is a listing for them under the hood or seat. I do have a manual for it on my shop computer and I will look them up tomorrow. Thank you for watching.
@@PullerbearEd I just found them. All 3 belts with part numbers, and length and width. Thank you. I will be coming back to this vid when it comes time to install the drive belt.
@@PullerbearEd , I put the new belts on. Runs like a champ. I have an odd issue though. The mower moves slowly, without touching the gas. Like its stuck on cruise control.Any suggestions?
Question for you, I have a Troy Bilt Bronco auto bought 2018 had to replace drive belt and once done I tested it put it in forward and it just took off put it into neutral and it still wanted to go. What's your feedback on something like this?
Belt may be shorter than original keeping it engaged? I had pulley on side, (variable speed?), which was not secured tightly to frame in back which caused similar issue. Loose or missing bolt if I remember correctly.
Awesome video, thank you. Is there an adjustment somewhere? When I release the throttle or clutch, it still wants to move a little bit like it’s still slightly engaged. Thanks.
Check the variable speed pully in the back to make sure it is fully traveling. I've seen them get a little stuck and it will make the tractor "cheap ".
I have a troybilt horse. The drive belt broke, a stick got in there. I can't get the fan under the battery loose. Everything turns. What can I do to lock the fan?
Unless the fan is broken you shouldn't have to remove it I believe. If it is broken and needs replaced some models have a hole in the hub you can stick a punch or screwdriver in to lock it in place.
Does anyone know if there is an adjustment after replacing the upper drive belt? I did replace both belts with OEM belts. But, when I depress the pedal fully forward its just doesnt go as fast as it use to. Also with that is seems Im depressing the pedal much further than previously.
I'm having the same issues. Replaced the upper belt with an oem part #754-0468, now I depress the pedal its very slow and if I press all the way the belt pops off. Maybe the belt is too small?
I knew this one was different than my year model because you can actually get a socket on that nut on the top of that top pulley. Engineers keep using less common sense every year.
Ed im having the same issues what size belt/ part number did you grab? I hot a 90.9 inch belt and I'm having troubles with it any help/advice would be appreciated
I don't have the exact size/number at the moment but I've went to using the OEM belts on these tractors because some of the aftermarket ones are not running ture. Sorry I can't be more help.
Thanks for the vid,couldn"t figure out how the main drive belt was routed around those 2 idler pulleys( you showed it perfect).My bronco is a 2009,looks just like that one.I can change that small top drive belt without removing that top pulley.Maybe I got lucky.
Just replaced one on my 2004 Troy Bilt 809Z garden tractor with flat idlers. I took the body off because there is a nut under the body to get to, way easier to get to other pulleys. Borrow an impact wrench for the main drive shaft(PTO) usually 5/8. You may have to use PB blaster or similar and very soft tapping with a hammer on a piece of wood on the PTO spindle(if you have electric PTO) and drive pulley. Make sure you have manual with diagrams.
I did this tractor a couple years ago I don't really remember what they were. At one time there should have been a sticker on the underside of the hood that had a list of replacement parts and part numbers.
You brought back memories we had 6 acers of grass and part of it was an apple orchard. This was a well known practice in our world. Thanks for sharing your knowledge with us, anyone with tools and ambition should breeze through this after watching your detailed video. Great job brother!!!
My transmission variable speed pulley hangs up and throws the belt. Fast fix WD 40 on the pulley shaft. Good video on the operation of the drive system belts. I have the same mower since 2004. Just got new pinion and bushing for the sloppy steering. Over all it's a very good 21hp mower. Thanks for the education on this fine mower.
Question, I just followed your video instructions. At first the long drive belt worked beautifully. Now, it was found to be smoking. What could be the issue? He does and has for years have problems keeping it in neutral when idling. Could that be an issue when he is running the engine stopped with the park brake engaged?
@@PullerbearEd I bought them new, so i wouldn't have to work on em. WRONG ! There just as bad as a old one. Cheaper to, can get new engines or rebuilt ones. cheers buddy
Sure would be nice if we had a repairman or woman that made house calls on these mowers. This is my mowers issue but not something I have the capability to do. Thanks for the instructions
Liz I'm sure if you check on FB market place there is someone in your area that does this kind of repair. There are lots and lots of us home shop people that do this as side work.
I'm surprised the earthquake xt 3/8 impact did that i have it and mine struggles on 7/8th nuts and bolts all the time which is why I switched to milwaukee because using the 1/2 or 3/4 earthquake xt sometimes isn't practical and the milwaukee have several speeds good work brother
@@PullerbearEd thats interesting my 3/8 earthquake xt dosen't have 2 speeds its only got one speed and forward or reverse looks just likes yours in the video
Thank you. I have to do this exact belt change and you explained it very well. The only difference in my mower is the tensioner in the middle above the deck on mine has a bracket over it in my way. I will just have to remove that and put it back. I sub'd as well. thanks
The verabel speed pulley is what when out on Ratchet, it kept getting stuck and finally ate the belt. Pretty pricey for what it is. But I found a used one for $10🤞🙂. Good video buddy 👍
I think you Forgot something. The belt cannot be pulled out unless you remove that 10mm bolt that is near the Belt Tensioner.. I am hoping it is just a simple bolt with the sleeve that guides the belt around the idler pulley next to the tensioner pulley. I cannot tell yet because my MOM doesnt have a 10mm socket that fits a 1/2" drive. If you did not route the belt through that little spot, then you reinstalled the new belt incorrectly. The only way to remove the old belt without removing that 10mm sleeve guide is to cut it out..
Ok, I must have missed recording it, I'm sorry. If I ever have to replace a belt on one of those tractors I will be sure to remove that bolt. Thanks for pointing out my mistake I'm sure it will help everyone else trying to replace that belt. Again sorry for not recording it.
the most difficult aspect of this repair is , snaking the belt over and under the steering bracket ..don't let Ed fool you , he employs a wire leader to pull the belt through the steering bracket .
I dont believe I did on this tractor but I also had it up on a rack so it was easy for me to get my hands in there. Thank you for giving that helpful trick and thank you for watching.
How long you had some of the earthquake xt tools ed 🤔 who recommended them to you was it me or did you watch my earthquake videos and decide to by them seem to work way better for you then they did for me... they work well just not enough power sometimes for me but they work great on cars and small to medium suvs for the 3/8 the half and 3/4 work great on big trucks and suvs notice the earthquake xt tools are way over specd
I replaced the belts on my Troy Bilt after paying a small engine shop $150 and a few months later discovering they had replaced only the short belt; the other was in dreadful shape; after doing the replacement myself I realized why they only pretended to replace the long belt: it is a PITA.
I replaced the drive belts on a mower like this that was given me...but now the brakes won't work..... give me some insight...... I've never had one like this. The brake is on the left and the pedal to make it move is on the right.
I'm sorry I don't have a tractor like that at the shop right now and I don't remember how that set up works. But a good starting point would be to check the linkage to make sure nothing came loose. Sorry I couldn't be more help
I just broke my dad's lawn tractor, you saved me from an ass whooping sir. Thank u very much it is now fixed
I'm glad the video helped. Thank you for watching. Make sure you subscribe to get helpful videos on all kinds of things.
Lmao were you fuckin around or just mowing with it? If a belt broke during regular use that doesn't warrant an ass whoopin, but if you were fuckin around being stupid......yup
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Thank you for the great video. This is exactly my same tractor (2004). Instructions worked perfectly. Thanks again !
Really glad it helped.
Thanks for being one of several videos I viewed making this a shade tree DIY. Not the easiest task when you are mid-seventies, but got 'er done.
Your welcome, I really try to show the easiest way of doing this stuff for people just like you or people that don't have alot of wrenching experience.
Thank you so much for the video. Saved me a lot of money to get a pulley replaced and getting the drive belts changed. Gonna cost me 400 for the service. Thank you very much again Sir 🙏🙏
You are very welcome, that is why I post these videos. To show just how easy some of these repairs are and that anyone can do it.
Much obliged for the tutorial, sir. Being a weekend warrior when it comes to DIY repairs, I normally don't comment, but this video was extremely helpful. First cut of the year and the mower drive quit. Purchased the bronco last year (a 2008). The upper belt disintegrated. Lower belt was in poor condition. Got them both replaced in 24 hrs. Thank you brother!! God bless.
Your very welcome, I'm glad it helped you. Thank you for watching.
I was going to pay a mobile repair guy to do the job for me. He cut off the belt, left and is trying to tell me "he can't get the right belt". I got one on Amazon in 2 days. Called him up and said "I have the belt", let me know when you want to install it. "I hear crickets" (he's ghosting me now). I guess he gave up.
So, watching your video, I know what I need to do if he keeps blowing me off. The biggest problem is doing it on the ground so I think I'll tilt one side up and put it on blocks to repair. Thanks for making the job seem clear.
Yes tipping it up on the side does make it easier. Glad I could help. You can do it .
Great job showing us the entire process,even though the space is limited
Thank you. It was very tight.
Clear and good instructions. After watching the video, I'm getting the confidence to do this myself.
Thank you. That is why I put these videos out is to help people get the confidence to do the work themselves.
Putting the new belt on the back pulley (about 10:50) was not quite so simple on my Bronco. I have bruises on both of my old arms but the pulley was just too close to the chassis to get the belt on.. I did find a simple way, but no one on any TH-cam video explained this solution. So if you have problems like I had just contact me and I will be glad to share the solution.
Yes on some model's it can be a pain. If you remove the large pully it's easy to get belt on. I show it in a newer video I did.
I watched the video of you putting the 2 drive belts on the troy built bronco riding mower what are the 2 lengths of the belts you replaced Thank Yoi for your help Lacy
Thank you Lacy for watching the video. I'm sorry but I don't remember what the belt length were..it's been a couple of years but if I remember there should be a sticker on the tractor that gives the part numbers.
Thank you for the reply appreciate it Lacy
Your welcome, again I'm sorry I couldn't help with the belt info
Great video Ed. I'm trying to catch up on some of your older stuff that I haven't watched yet. Love the air shower at the end. LOL ;-)
🤣🤣🤣 thank you
Any tips for getting the lower drive belt under the bottom, pully it, jamed in the back for me and I cent get to sit on the lower part
Sorry I don't, I haven't done enough of these to come across that problem.
Thanks for the video; it is very helpful. One of my friends moved up to a zero turn mower and orphaned the machine I now have along with a bad drive belt and an engine oil leak so now I have a project...lol!
Your welcome, I'm glad it helped and thank you for watching and commenting.
can you help? where do the two springs go? the one broke which caused belt failure. manual shows 2 springs but not much help where they hook to.
It's been a couple years since I've worked on one of those and I don't have one available to get pictures of. If you look around there should be some rub marks where they hook to. Sorry I couldn't be more helpful.
great video to get me through the basics. My troy built is a super bronco and there were just a few differences compared to your video. for those that have a super bronco, the rear variable speed pulley has 3 bolts that hold the assembly in place. the bolts are located outside the frame by the rear tire. just loosen all 3 and it allows the belt to slip into the pulley.
also the idler pulley has no spring and need to be unbolted and the whole pulley and guide come off.
The last difference is there are 3 small bolts with guides that are bolted in the under carriage that help guide the drive belt. those also have to be removed to facilitate feeding the belt between the floor of the frame and the pulleys. You can unbolt them from under the tractor through holes. they are where the drive belt is located.
thanks for the video, very helpful. Belt change out went as planned.
Thank you for the info on the super bronco. I'm sure it will be very helpful.
Thanks for posting, the three bolts are all the same size on the drivers side rear. This does let you cock the pulleys making it easy to slip the belt on between the frame. Do not remove them, just loosen them all a little bit at a time. The other issue that I had to work around was getting the belt past the guard on these pulleys--you have to get it around the back and then PULL it through (towards the front of the mower).
I’m having problems sliding belt thur too from shaft…..any advice….your video makes it look simple.. thanks
Maybe try putting a rubber band around it to format a tight U at the end that you are pushing through helps me sometimes.
Thanks for your time
Just bought a used Bronco, my arthritis decided 3 acres was no longer a thing. That critter has been one thing after another. Blades, battery and now it sent me to this video. Y'all definitely have my subscription cause it looks like I will be a frequent viewer. Best of all, I just bought a really nice rear wheel drive self propelled. Need em both, the lawn grows like mad here in southwest Florida!
Thank you. I'm really happy that my videos are helping people fix and maintain their equipment.
Oh yeah, getting me a cordless impact driver too. I don't know why I haven't bought one already?
@@PullerbearEd Us wrench turners are disappearing fast.
They do make life easier, I wish they would have had cordless ones 20 years ago..
I got a new Craftsman T 140 and the dam drive belt keeps jumping off. EVERY THING IS NEW. So i just park it. Would you? Or any body know by chance know what the problem might be? I kinda think the idler pull bracket is bent. LOOK LIKE THE ONLY THING THAT IT COULD BE I have people saying there done the same thing. I just told them! I parked the dam thing! Fixing to use it for parts for my pony
I've had other people tell me they had the same issue also when they used aftermarket belts. The aftermarket belts just don't fit right or it may be a belt guard that isn't in just the right spot.
@@PullerbearEd Thanks. Every thing is the same new stuff. the day i bought it. i only mowed with it 2 X. I'am just going to put it back on. Jack it up and see what going on.
@@PullerbearEd 1 person said to check the transmission mounts > Way to test it was? Take the battery out put into gear. Move it back and forth. If the transmission move up and down> Its the transmission mount that is broke ~ That could be it to! But its the drive belt that keeps coming off
If the trans is moving it could let the belt come off. Without seeing it, it is really hard to diagnose.
@@PullerbearEd I Agree it is. 👍👍Just trying to fix my problems, and help others with the same problems. Craftsman and Troy bult Tect don't know what going on. Cheers buddy
I enjoyed the video. Gave me good starting point. Due to the body seam being too big I had to remove the pulley above the trans because there was not enough clearance to remove or replace the lower trans belt. Also because of a belt keeper on the small pulley that the tension spring attaches to I had to loosen that pulley from below to obtain clearance to remove upper trans belt. My mower is exactly like the one in the video and even has the Lowes sticker on it, so there must be a bit of variances in the body when built.
Yes they are built on an assembly line and sometimes they make the parts fit or it could be a slight difference from year to year. Thank you for watching.
hey there @ about 11:58 you moved that idler pulley arm i think its called isnt there suppose to be a spring attached to it and then to the frame? Mine is missing wondering if you can confirm that there is suppose to be a spring there. thanks
Yes there is a spring there.
They do wear out and sometimes break then they fall off.
@@PullerbearEd If you have a video or photo showing where that spring goes that would be great I even took it to a lawn mower repair shop and they couldnt figure out where the spring attaches.
I'm sorry I don't. That was a customer tractor and they sold it and have a lawn service now.
I loved this video, I was so authentic. Just a real guy doing Man stuff, thank you I learned a lot!
Your very welcome. Thank you so much for watching.
What size drive belt does this trot built bronco take ? I have the same mower
I'm sorry I don't have that information. It has been over 3 years since I had this one in my shop. I think there is a sticker somewhere on it that has that information
Great video and much appreciated! After replacement of the upper and lower drive belt the tractor with power at idle, the tractor creeps ahead and brake will not stop the tractor. I have to shift it into neutral. Looks like other people have had the issue. I will remove the upper belt and lube the tensioner arm attachment point. Is this what you recommend? Thanks!
The belt will stretch over time yes. Check the variable speed pully to make sure it moves freely up and down and also that it doesn't have groves worn into it.
Just waited to say thank you for taking the time to show use this, I know it takes time and you don't have to do it so I appreciate it, God bless
Thank you, it is kind of a hobby of my working on these small engines and I enjoy making the videos.
How long a belt did you put on there? The part number on my hood is 954-0467 and it’s supposed to be 90.8 inches according to Troy built website however, my belt is way too long it’s not tight and I don’t know what size to put on there.
Honestly I don't remember. It's been a few years since I did it. I want to say I used the part number from under the hood. Sorry I couldn't be more help.
Hello, this is a very educational video. I just bought a Troy Built Bronco. 20 hp courage, 42" cut. Garage kept. Very nice mower. But it seems like it is going faster in reverse than in forward drive. I was thinking of starting with the drive belt. Would really appreciate any insight on this issue.
I've noticed the couple I've worked on were the same way.
I like the way that come apart and went back together! And yes that mower has been kept in really good shape.
That mower is 2009 model I believe. The lady the owns it is in her 80s and is very particular on keeping her equipment clean.
i have the same mower, my question is there some kind of spring system or something that goes to gas pedal? cut the mower sharp an the back tire hit the bumper of my truck an lost all the play in gas pedal, if you could please help, thank you
Yes there is a spring on it. Take the battery out and the tray you should be able to see all the linkages where the spring is.
@@PullerbearEd yes there is a spring there just wasnt sure if there was another spring closer to the gas pedal
Good step by step advice. Very helpful!
Thank you,
Thank you
So awesome to have someone take the care you did to get perfect video!
And now i shall venture outside and complete the same task!!!!!
Glad you enjoyed ans hope you have good luck with it
Very helpful. I needed to get my tractor back on the road and could not wait for long turn around time for repair shop. I will try to do this myself.
It's a fairly easy job. If you remove the deck you can lean it on its side (carburetor up) to get easier access.
Have the same mower like the one there that u showed bit mine doesn’t have the spring on the tensioner pulley my guess it never had one or at least that I know of any ideals???
They wear and like to break then fall off.
I can’t get the bolt from the spindle/drive pulley from under the motor off. Even with my impact. It’s just a small 1/4” drive but it should be enough. Any suggestions?? I came to your tube to see if anyone had this problem and I haven’t seen any
The 1/4 impact may not have enough striking force to break it loose. If you have a 1/2in breaker bar try putting that on it and shocking loose with a heavy hammer, I have had to do this a few times to get it broke free.
It's rare to find a video that relates to exactly what your doing/working on thanks. My lower drive belt broke and my 20volt impact didn't have the torque to get it off. Also was not sure whether it was right loose or left loose threads.
I'm glade it was helpful. Thank you
Very helpful video. If you don’t have an impact tool handy to pull the engine pulley, simply work the starter gear up by hand until it engages with the flywheel. Then place a penny or other soft metal between the gears of the starter and flywheel to hold the engine from turning over while you loosen/tighten that 5/8” pulley bolt.
Yes great point that does work great.
I used a pipe wrench to hold the shaft between the 2 pulleys… worked well!
Show us how to remove the cutting deck, and put back on
It's fairly easy but the next time I get one of this style in I will definitely show how.
Were you able to slip the top belt out from under the little belt guard clip on the small pulley where the spring goes? Without removing the clip?
If I remember correctly yes.
How do you get the big belt on and off the rear pulley?
You have to remove the pully from the imput shaft of the transmission. My newest video on how to replace these belts shows how to do it.
NEED HELP ASAP!!!!!i changed the drive belt on my craftsman t 1300 lawn tractor/troy built. NOW WHEN I PUT IT IN FORWARD, THE MOWER MOVES WITHOUT pressing the gas petal. ANY IDEA WHAT I DID WRONG? any help would be great, thanks
I'm not really sure if you tractor has a standard transmission or avaliable speed. Check the tension on the drive belt if it is too tight it can't slip when in neutral.
I have a variable speed.a gas petal on the Right side.and a brake on the left.is it best to change the upper and lower belts at the same time? And where do you suggest I get the belts from? I've used Sunbelt and rotary belts. Think these belts are too small.Any info would be great.thanks again
Yes I'd change both at the same time. If I can not get OEM belts I get my belts from NAPA.
How do you adjust the tension on the upper Drive belt?
There is no adjustment it is set by the spring tension of the idler
My Troy Bilt Bronco (2005) doesn't really require removing the rear pulley. It's not in the owners manual, but there are a couple of bolts on the rear left frame: loosening one or two of them (I don't recall the specifics) allows enough slack to install the belt without having to use an impact wrench to remove the pulley.
Yes some years did it that way I believe. They were nice. Thank you for watching and the helpful input.
Need the drive belt diagram. Where belt goes around clutch pulley.
Sometimes there is a sticker on the bottom side of the footrest, I'll try and find it on the internet and post a picture of it on my community tad. I might take a couple of days so please be patient.
What size is upper drive belt for the Troy built bronco it’s shredded and don’t know size
I honestly don't know, I'm sorry.
Great video, just one question... can I do this job with a pair of ramps and a couple of blocks???
Yes but if you are careful you can lean it on its left side after you take the deck off and have a lot more room to work.
On my TB Super-Bronco: I had to loosen up the 3 bolts to the variable speed pulley assembly where the upper & lower belts run to get enough room to get the belts on / off. Also, instead of trying to take the heavy duty spring off (and back on) of the idler pulley for the upper belt, I rigged up a binder strap around the back of the tractor and compressed the spring that way to finish up the upper belt install. There's also a belt retainer screw & bushing that had to come off to get the old belt off, new one back on. It's accessible through a hole strategically drilled on the bottom 'skid' plate. Putting the mower deck back on was painful too until I shimmed up the front about 2", then was able to get the rear pins installed. All in all, what a pain to replace these belts, but I'm appreciative of this video, thanks.
You welcome, thank you for the tips on the super Bronco
My Bronco is the same with the belt guard on the variable speed pulley , & the pully for the clutch assembly, This is the closest and best video. I wanted to refresh my memory on the belt route at the clutch, been a week waiting on a pulley
The bad thing is that they keep changing the design of how the belts are routed with the changes in the transaxle they use for that year.
Would a chewed up worn out drive belt cause this same mower to move even after releasing the pedal? I can stop mine with the brake in neutral but in forward or reverse it just keeps going, even with the brake applied.
Yes it could but most likely it is the variable speed pully not fully releasing. They are know to get sticky.
Very awesome glad to see it is just like how I’ve done it once before on my 2006 Husskee 25 hp i’m looking for helpful information on getting tie rods when I go in reverse both of mine front tires bow in.
The rear connection to the steering gear. The front tire rides are fine at the wheels.
@michaelvredeveld1184 I've found the tie rod ends on Amazon cheap for a couple of different tractors
What is the lentght of the drive blet I got a new one it is to long I measured from pulley to pulley got 89in is that right
I honestly don't remember what it is. I do know I got the belt from my local dealer and it was an OEM belt because some of the aftermarket ones do not fit correctly.
4L sec X 84.17
Hey-- I have the exact same model Troy-Bilt Bronco 2009. What was the length of each belt? They were a bit ate up, can't tell. Thanx in advance.
I'm sorry I don't remember right off hand. It was a customer's tractor. But I believe there is a listing for them under the hood or seat. I do have a manual for it on my shop computer and I will look them up tomorrow. Thank you for watching.
@@PullerbearEd I just found them. All 3 belts with part numbers, and length and width. Thank you. I will be coming back to this vid when it comes time to install the drive belt.
Thank you. Hope it helps. You can drop the deck off and lean the tractor sideways a bit to get better access under it.
@@PullerbearEd , I put the new belts on. Runs like a champ. I have an odd issue though. The mower moves slowly, without touching the gas. Like its stuck on cruise control.Any suggestions?
@@DanoJ1984 we have one that does this too. Haven't taken the time to look into it yet.
Where did you buy the new belts from?
I picked them up at my local mower shop.
Ok thank you
Question for you, I have a Troy Bilt Bronco auto bought 2018 had to replace drive belt and once done I tested it put it in forward and it just took off put it into neutral and it still wanted to go. What's your feedback on something like this?
Sounds like it might be the variable speed pully in the backcourt be stuck.
I didn't even think about that and that's the area I had problems getting the new belts on. Thanks and I'll check on that tomorrow.
Your welcome. Hope you find the issue and get it going.
Belt may be shorter than original keeping it engaged? I had pulley on side, (variable speed?), which was not secured tightly to frame in back which caused similar issue. Loose or missing bolt if I remember correctly.
Thanks on input. I think the belt is smaller than the one I took off.
Awesome video, thank you. Is there an adjustment somewhere? When I release the throttle or clutch, it still wants to move a little bit like it’s still slightly engaged. Thanks.
Check the variable speed pully in the back to make sure it is fully traveling. I've seen them get a little stuck and it will make the tractor "cheap ".
@@PullerbearEd will do! Thanks again!
That is why I make these videos, To help people fix their own equipment and save money.
@@PullerbearEd I took a picture but I am not too sure how I can attach it. I’m not 100% sure what I am looking for.
exactly the video i needed to see , it shows where every goes .
Thank you, I glad it helped you out.
I have a troybilt horse. The drive belt broke, a stick got in there. I can't get the fan under the battery loose. Everything turns. What can I do to lock the fan?
Unless the fan is broken you shouldn't have to remove it I believe. If it is broken and needs replaced some models have a hole in the hub you can stick a punch or screwdriver in to lock it in place.
Does anyone know if there is an adjustment after replacing the upper drive belt? I did replace both belts with OEM belts. But, when I depress the pedal fully forward its just doesnt go as fast as it use to. Also with that is seems Im depressing the pedal much further than previously.
I don't believe there is an adjustment. When you say OEM is that from a dealer or from Online like from Amazon?
I'm having the same issues. Replaced the upper belt with an oem part #754-0468, now I depress the pedal its very slow and if I press all the way the belt pops off. Maybe the belt is too small?
I have the same tractor and it does run no jerking etc but it has slowed down , you believe it's a belt?
Yes most likely it's stretching
Great video Ed. Where did you get the attachment for your car lift. That’s awesome really could use one
Jimmy
Jimmy that attachment was on there 20+ years ago when I started working there. There are more modern ones out there.
I knew this one was different than my year model because you can actually get a socket on that nut on the top of that top pulley. Engineers keep using less common sense every year.
Amen to that
Ed im having the same issues what size belt/ part number did you grab? I hot a 90.9 inch belt and I'm having troubles with it any help/advice would be appreciated
I don't have the exact size/number at the moment but I've went to using the OEM belts on these tractors because some of the aftermarket ones are not running ture. Sorry I can't be more help.
Thanks for the vid,couldn"t figure out how the main drive belt was routed around those 2 idler pulleys( you showed it perfect).My bronco is a 2009,looks just like that one.I can change that small top drive belt without removing that top pulley.Maybe I got lucky.
Some of them you can Some you can't, glad you got lucky and glad this video helped.
Just replaced one on my 2004 Troy Bilt 809Z garden tractor with flat idlers. I took the body off because there is a nut under the body to get to, way easier to get to other pulleys. Borrow an impact wrench for the main drive shaft(PTO) usually 5/8. You may have to use PB blaster or similar and very soft tapping with a hammer on a piece of wood on the PTO spindle(if you have electric PTO) and drive pulley. Make sure you have manual with diagrams.
Yes iv done a couple of the time periods. It is much easier with the rear fenders off.
My bronco has a bracket over the center two pulleys. And the bolts don't seem to come out. I can't rout the belts because of them. Can anyone help?
Great video Ed
Thanks for the visit
May I ask what are 2 belt sizes?
I did this tractor a couple years ago I don't really remember what they were. At one time there should have been a sticker on the underside of the hood that had a list of replacement parts and part numbers.
What does mean when the pulley is turning but not the belt
It sounds like the belt tension is loose. But without seeing it in-person it's really hard to say.
Great work buddy that’s one clean tractor
Thank you for you continued support brother
You brought back memories we had 6 acers of grass and part of it was an apple orchard. This was a well known practice in our world. Thanks for sharing your knowledge with us, anyone with tools and ambition should breeze through this after watching your detailed video. Great job brother!!!
Thank you for all the support. It truly means a lot getting positive feedback.
My transmission variable speed pulley hangs up and throws the belt. Fast fix WD 40 on the pulley shaft. Good video on the operation of the drive system belts. I have the same mower since 2004. Just got new pinion and bushing for the sloppy steering. Over all it's a very good 21hp mower. Thanks for the education on this fine mower.
Thank you for watching. I happy it helped.
Very helpful doing the exact job for my neighbor
I'm happy it was helpful.
By any chance do you remember the belt sizes for both of the belts?
No I don't but they use to have a sticker on them somewhere that gave the sizes I believe.
Can you do a video of how to setup a foot gas pedal
I will definitely try, I'll be back on working on the pulling tractor probably next month.
@@PullerbearEd cool
Question, I just followed your video instructions. At first the long drive belt worked beautifully. Now, it was found to be smoking. What could be the issue? He does and has for years have problems keeping it in neutral when idling. Could that be an issue when he is running the engine stopped with the park brake engaged?
I would guess that maybe the variable speed pullies are not moving free enough. They need to so it will slack the belt in neutral.
@@PullerbearEd thank you. I will have to check that out for him.
Your welcome.
I can't get the tension spring back on at all
@chinch112 sometimes they are a pain. Make sure you are trying to hook it in the correct spot
Very well orchestrated
Thank you
Is the lower drive belt supposed be loose?
No
Couldn't wait to stop that ad. To start this one!
Thank you for watching the ad and the video.
Hello Ed: What kind of video camera did you use to film this? Thanks for the video!
That video was shot with an Apeman A80 I believe. That you for watching.
@@PullerbearEd Thanks again.
No problem.
Thank you sir. That class was very helpful
Thank you. I'm glad it helped
Good video Ed,had one those come in today,video saved me a lot of time,thanks.
Your welcome @jungle Bob repair . That is why I do these videos, to get the information out there and help people.
What sizes are the two belts?
I don't remember right off hand. But I can get it for you in a few days
Thank you, good camera work
Thank yoh.
What is the belt sizes?
I'm sorry I did that repair over 2 years ago so I don't have the belt size on hand.
Great info! Thanks for posting!
You are very welcome, thank you for watching.
@@PullerbearEd keep them coming!
I will surely try.
What is the correct deck belt?
I dont have that information on hand but if memory serves me well there is a parts list under the hood. I do know this one had 2 belts.
You didn’t show how to get the belt off and back on to the back pulley .
The part I am having most trouble with!
I thought I showed pulling the rear pulley loose. I'm sorry.
Great video,thanks
Thank you.
Between Des-troy Bilt ~ Crap-Man! Made me became a Lawn mower mechanic ~ They got more up keep than a dam car
Yes sir, it might be better in the long run to just rebuild an old cub.
@@PullerbearEd I bought them new, so i wouldn't have to work on em. WRONG ! There just as bad as a old one. Cheaper to, can get new engines or rebuilt ones. cheers buddy
Sure would be nice if we had a repairman or woman that made house calls on these mowers. This is my mowers issue but not something I have the capability to do. Thanks for the instructions
Liz I'm sure if you check on FB market place there is someone in your area that does this kind of repair. There are lots and lots of us home shop people that do this as side work.
Thanks for the suggestion
Anyone got a part # for this belt?
Sorry I don't have it anymore.
I'm surprised the earthquake xt 3/8 impact did that i have it and mine struggles on 7/8th nuts and bolts all the time which is why I switched to milwaukee because using the 1/2 or 3/4 earthquake xt sometimes isn't practical and the milwaukee have several speeds good work brother
I use it all the time on brake jobs and most all small engine work. I find my Milwaukee 1/2 gets a little heavy and doesn't fit well into some places
@@PullerbearEd good points i agree the Milwaukee sometimes dosen't fit in some placrs
@@PullerbearEd thats interesting my 3/8 earthquake xt dosen't have 2 speeds its only got one speed and forward or reverse looks just likes yours in the video
Antonio you are correct. it only has the one speed, I sorry.
@@PullerbearEd oh okay
What size is the belt?
I'm not sure right off hand. On most lawn tractors like this there is a common parts list under the hood. Sorry I couldn't be more help.
@@PullerbearEd ok
What would a job like that cost labor wise?
With a full spring service I would charge $250-$300 depending on parts.
Thank you. I have to do this exact belt change and you explained it very well. The only difference in my mower is the tensioner in the middle above the deck on mine has a bracket over it in my way. I will just have to remove that and put it back. I sub'd as well. thanks
I glad it will help. They do change some stuff on different years but it's all basically the same. Thank you for the sub.
The verabel speed pulley is what when out on Ratchet, it kept getting stuck and finally ate the belt. Pretty pricey for what it is. But I found a used one for $10🤞🙂. Good video buddy 👍
Thank you. This one was working fine but I will keep an eye on it for her.
What belts do I buy !!
I dont have that info on hand sorry.
I think you Forgot something. The belt cannot be pulled out unless you remove that 10mm bolt that is near the Belt Tensioner.. I am hoping it is just a simple bolt with the sleeve that guides the belt around the idler pulley next to the tensioner pulley. I cannot tell yet because my MOM doesnt have a 10mm socket that fits a 1/2" drive. If you did not route the belt through that little spot, then you reinstalled the new belt incorrectly. The only way to remove the old belt without removing that 10mm sleeve guide is to cut it out..
I cut it to remove it.
@@PullerbearEd thats fine, but to re-install the new belt, you have to remove that bolt-sleeve... because the belt goes "through it."
Ok, I must have missed recording it, I'm sorry. If I ever have to replace a belt on one of those tractors I will be sure to remove that bolt. Thanks for pointing out my mistake I'm sure it will help everyone else trying to replace that belt. Again sorry for not recording it.
the most difficult aspect of this repair is , snaking the belt over and under the steering bracket ..don't let Ed fool you , he employs a wire leader to pull the belt through the steering bracket .
I dont believe I did on this tractor but I also had it up on a rack so it was easy for me to get my hands in there. Thank you for giving that helpful trick and thank you for watching.
How long you had some of the earthquake xt tools ed 🤔 who recommended them to you was it me or did you watch my earthquake videos and decide to by them seem to work way better for you then they did for me... they work well just not enough power sometimes for me but they work great on cars and small to medium suvs for the 3/8 the half and 3/4 work great on big trucks and suvs notice the earthquake xt tools are way over specd
I've had my 3/8 Impact for about 2years. Yes I seen your reviews and a few other. It was the price that was the big deciding factor.
@@PullerbearEd i got ya brother yeah defenitly was why I grabbed them was the price
I replaced the belts on my Troy Bilt after paying a small engine shop $150 and a few months later discovering they had replaced only the short belt; the other was in dreadful shape; after doing the replacement myself I realized why they only pretended to replace the long belt: it is a PITA.
I hope this video helped.
Thanks very much for sharing this with us.
Your welcome. Thank you for watching
I replaced the drive belts on a mower like this that was given me...but now the brakes won't work..... give me some insight...... I've never had one like this. The brake is on the left and the pedal to make it move is on the right.
I'm sorry I don't have a tractor like that at the shop right now and I don't remember how that set up works. But a good starting point would be to check the linkage to make sure nothing came loose. Sorry I couldn't be more help
@@PullerbearEd Linkages are fine....it was stopping fine before I put new belts on it, so there is something with the belts I need to fix.
Check to make sure the variable speed pully in the back is opening all the way I've seen it get stuck and not let the belt slip around it in park.
good job ed!
Thank you.