Roofing basics - shingling
ฝัง
- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 2 ก.ค. 2024
- Asphalt shingle roofing basics.
Please hit the thumbs up button and subscribe to the Grand Roofing channel, so you don't miss another video.
Amazon affiliate links
This post includes affiliate links for which I may make a small commission at no extra cost to you should you make a purchase.
Metabo HPT Roofing Nailer, Pneumatic, Coil Roofing Nails (NV45AB2)
amzn.to/3597iKh
AJC Hatchet 17oz Magnet Roofing Hatchet
amzn.to/3eS068M - แนวปฏิบัติและการใช้ชีวิต
![[TH] VCT Pacific Stage 2 - Week 3 Day 3 // DFM vs PRX | DRX vs TLN](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/il3Twexat3A/mqdefault.jpg)
He's so busy teaching us he's got his roofers crack sticking out. 😉
Had a homeowner completely lose their mind because our guys didn't nail the starter closer to the eve. 3" or so. They nailed about like you did. Up farther on the starter. I believe OC calls for 3-4". We had to go back and and put more nails in. The guy said wind would absolutely blow those shingles up and off eventually. I understood where he was coming from, but it was a bit ridiculous. Wonder what your thoughts are on that. Great vid! Always learn something new from you. Thanks!!
So refreshing to finally see somebody who does things the right way 😌
My only critic is the starter on the gable end installed before the low side buy not a big deal. Other than that A+ work.
@@corysturgis6660 I do the same
I feel like I'm in an orientation training class for a professional roofing instalation company...lol
The external mic works great. I personally like it when you use the gopro on your head to get a closer look.
Thanks again
This is a beautiful channel. Your wife and children and lucky people. Ty for your time & effort.
Open metal valleys can't be beat.
Love it brother! Quality work and took the time to explain it
Great job shows every aspect
Great once again. I am learning and the valley taught me a lot! Thanks
Excellent video. Thanks for the effort you put into it!
thank for the video
in school i was taught 1 1/2" over hang and mark it at 12" for starter stripe. then every mark after that was 5" 10" 15" 20" etc.
cut off 6" and then full shingle for the rest of the way up
watching in PA... great video
The 1 1/2" overhang is typical when there's no eave metal. Just don't have to overhang it as much when there is, well when it's drip edge, actual eave metal doesn't have a lip on it I don't thing
Nice demo, I like to start in the valley for maximum coverage then work twards the gable. I find it works best for me and eliminates waste
Yes by no means is this the only way to do it. I don't always start in the valley. It depends the sizes of the sections. If I'm on a large section it's faster for me to build a lead on the left Gable because I'm right-handed. Running the shingles out to the right because the way I used the air nailer. It's more efficient and fast for me to go that direction.
Then installing the one tab two tab to offset everything without wasting much. Also buy pre cutting the lead it doesn't waste anything. It was always fun working with a lefty on the crew. We could never work on the same section. They always wanted to build on the right and run left. I always want to build on the left and run right.
Why pull the first layer of cellophane and not the rest. I was told not to remove any of the cellophane by a lifetime roofer and it was printed on the cellophane not to remove it.? I be seen other videos where guys are pulling it all off not just the edge like you did? Thanks for another quality video. Way to highlight the lap on that first course. I was taught the california valley is the best way to go. It's been 20 years since I roofed something large enough with valleys.
1/2 inch overhang starter and shingles
Good practice, best practice
I use shears my boss taugt to use shears on valleys and rakes
come see me next time you want some materials to do these. ill get you some raptor instead of that abc stuff 🤣
New sub here, loving the videos. Curious about a shoe I've been looking into for walking on roofs. I have a pair of Cougar Paws, but they're not always needed. So I've been using an old pair of Nikes but need something new. Looking into the "Reebok Nano Trainer 8" if anyone has any experience with those shoes and how their grip feels, any feedback would be appreciated!
Even though he tries to make it look easy I'm glad I didn't try this on my own roof. After a few failures I don't attempt plumbing or roofing.
Hi, just a hint for you for future videos inside of garage,
Use a shingle color other than black.
Use more light. The shingles are difficult to see when it is all black.
They are brown bud
DO you sell these demo roofs as awesome kids playhouses?
How are you now worryed about highest?
What software for you use to edit videos?
Jw, how come the nails are not put higher up. Wouldn't that allow the single placed above (higher up on roof) to better protect water/ice from leaking from the nails ?
(due to greater overlap of nails by the shingles)
If you put the nails too much higher there's a strong chance that they will break free, blow away, or heat up and slide down. Shingles shed water not waterproof. Even with using ice and water that does help protect but over a long period of time the nails will rust out and you'll still have holes through the ice and water.. When installing nails they should be right in the common bond. The common bond is where the 2 pieces of shingle are joined so the nails hold both. It is also right in the area of the seal strip so the shingle above will stick down where it is fastened to the roof deck.
@@GrandRoofingInc
Ahhh I see. Appreciate the reply and information. Was really curious about this. That makes sense.
why are you starting the gable starters first then doing the gutter starters? the over lap is backwards?
~16min in
I am getting ready to re roof with architectural shingles and will be replacing 2 open metal lined valleys (warranty required). How do you keep the row of shingles that end at the valley aligned? Can you use a chalk line in some way to keep them straight?
It sounds like you are doing what I would call an open cut Valley. When you're done installing your shingles across your Valley, yes using a chalk line
crack A-line at the desired distance out of the Valley. Then Is using a hook knife cut the shingles being careful not to cut or scratch the metal. You can put a couple scrap shingles underneath or a piece of something to protect the metal.
Depending upon the brand you are using and requirements for warranties.
You could also possibly do a California Valley. Crack A-line up The Valley at your desired distance, and run a row of shingles on that line. Then when running your field you cut them where they intersect crossing that shingle. Sounds kind of confusing but look up a couple videos on California Valley.
@@GrandRoofingInc thank you for your response. In Florida when using architectural shingles, it is recommended to use an open metal lined valley (heavy rain). The exposed metal will be 6"wide at top and 8" wide at eave. the shingles are trimmed at the edge of exposed metal. the valleys meet 10' below the main ridge. How do I make sure the shingles that are going towards the valley and up to the ridge. will be straight? I can make measurements along the rake for a chalk line, cannot on the valley side. Would you recommend measuring up the roof and make the marks as close to the valley as possible and on the rake and pop a chalk line between the two to get a straight lines to the valley and up to the main ridge? Thank you for sharing your hard-earned knowledge of roofing and the excellent videos, especially on flashing chimneys.
Is it common for shingles from a new roof install put on in cooler weather ripple or lift? My ex had a new one put on in November and some of the shingles now are not laying flat.
Yes it's pretty common, it's just due to the shingles not being flat while on the roof.
When it gets colder out, shingles tend to keep the shape that it's in, if it's slightly bent or whatever the case is. When that happens people usually just toss that bundle to the side so it can "relax" throughout the day, or if it's crimped way too much, it's just used for cutoffs, etc.
It shouldn't be a problem, as when hot weather hits it, it should lay flat. But it's not a great practice to lay shingles if it's all crimped up. Could cause expansion and buckle out from the shingles being butted up together.
@@Josh-ww5kz thanks very much!
That's why it's not recommend to use shingles below 32degrees I believe.
isnt closed cut and california the same thing?
I find it so interesting how less strict codes are. In south Florida we have to do the absolute most and it’s ridiculous I wish I could do things this way
@ 14:33, shouldn't the starter along the eave be installed first before the rake starter so that any water that would find it's way down the rake, would shed to the outside, or on top of the starter that is along the eave?
He cripped it twice
is the common bond irrelevant with gaf hdz's and other shingles with the layerlock technology?
I don't know, that's a good question! I have used a little hdz but haven't paid much attention to the shingle. It just looked like a little spoked wheel pressed the fiberglass mat through the laminate during manufacturing. nothing special. I'd like to try to heat one and see how easy it slides apart.
I have about 8 years of experience as a roofer, hire me, I really want to work for you! Please take me to work!
You don't nail the bottom of the starter? Like you said you're making a pivot point for wind to pull the nail since the bottom of the starter doesn't seal down so the whole bottom will flap in the wind.
Exactly
I told that to a foreman that randomly checks our jobs while we are on them. The decking at the eaves was about 3" short and I was in the middle of cutting strips to put there and he just told me to nail high in that area. I don't work with them now but that's probably going to be a problem in the future. The area I live in isn't prone to high winds but still isn't good to do that
He did ok. Just nail as low as you can while still getting solid penetration into the deck.
Why aren't you nailing the starter to the drip edge so the wind can't get under it's and lift it up
Why have starter if your against the lip of your starter
Any chance you know how to install metal valleys.
Are you talking about asphalt shingles with an open valley like w metal in it?
Of course he does!!! This guy knows how to do everything.
Metal W valleys are fairly simple and way quicker to install than shingled valleys.
All you do is put your starters on the eaves first, then put the metal valley overtop, there's usually little lines on the metal showing where to put your shingles when going up the valley. Just line up those with either side of the eaves on the valley. Then when you have it somewhat centered in the valley, nail it down once on the bottom side, staying the 6" or whatever from the center of the valley. Then go up to the top and push it down to make sure its tight, then tack it every 5 feet or so on either sides. Make sure that it doesn't crimple up. If the valley is more than 10 feet, just put another valley metal overlapping the previous one. If it's a dormer, just cut the top of the valley where it meets the other valley, leave a few inches of overhang, then i usually just hammer it down so it folds over the other side. Might have to make a relief cut. Then just do the same with the other side.
Then when shingling it in, just put a shingle (double thick side) going up the valley, following the lines on the metal, or if there isn't, get a chalkline and make a mark 2 inches away. Then follow that. As you're shingling just simply cut the shingle straight from the corner of the shingle, where it's about to overlap into the metal, and just watch for nail placement as the next row might land on a nail head closest to the valley
I don’t understand why you do everything right and then put a back lap on your starters at the rake. Why not cut an angle on your rake starter so the eve tar strip is still exposed and there’s no back lap. JW?
Isn't really going to affect the roof, imo. That half inch space without the tar strip won't affect it as much as you think.
Roofers use hook blades.
Hello, we would love to sponsor a video on your channel but we couldn't find an email to contact. If you are interested in a collaboration please let us know. Thank you.
Never understood why some manufacturers (2 in particular come to mind) specify odd staggering patterns in the field of roof. You have to be so much more mindful of nail placement and I don’t see where creating a somewhat random pattern improves appearance from even steps. I guess it’s easy to absolve warranty liabilities when literally no one (including installers in the marketing videos) uses the specified pattern.
Only way I've been told is to do a 8" step stagger. I think raking architecture shingles is a big no no. If shingles crack, etc from manufacturer defects. More of a chance of leaking than with a step stagger
@@Josh-ww5kz Racking isn’t random in any way. I’m referring to 4-course leads, 6” and 11” steps, etc., to minimize the appearance of the pattern in the finished product. Seems redundant IMO when the exposed surface of the shingle is already designed to create a random appearance.
@@ltd4ytyeah I agree with that, haven't had to do it that way before but I could see it being annoying having to do that, and change your nail pattern from the usual
@@Josh-ww5kz 4-course is super annoying because your smallest piece is half a shingle. Then you end up with butt joints in the center of underlying shingles. Not terrible with 4 nails but with 6 you gotta be really careful. Also, it seems to end up being wasteful doing it that way.
I run a 6” bond straight up the roof. I don’t rack my shingles. That’s stupid IMO and wastes material.