My Ender 2 Mods/Upgrades - OctoPrint, ABL, filament sensor, magnetic print bed etc.

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  • เผยแพร่เมื่อ 27 มิ.ย. 2024
  • I've added a lot of mods to my Ender 2. Here's a video showing all the mods I currently have.
    I bought my Ender 2 from GearBest
    Buy the Ender 2 (affiliate links)
    US PLUG goo.gl/wf9VvX
    EU PLUG EU Plug - bit.ly/2B3dqTE
    2018 Mid-Year Sale: www.gearbest.com/activity-mid...
    Hardware mods
    Fans
    ○ 2 x Noctua NF-A4x10 FLX - motherboard & cooling block
    ○ NF-A6x25 FLX (with noise reducer cable) - PSU
    ○ Blower 0.18 Amp - part cooling
    Sugru applied around X-gantry assembly to prevent any unwanted x-gantry looseness sugru.com/
    Dampers on X and Y stepper motors • Creality 3D CR-10 Hict...
    EZABL auto bed levelling • EZABL Bed Leveling Kit...
    Micro-Swiss all metal hotend goo.gl/MyhRvh
    Capricorn tubing www.captubes.com/
    MacEwen3D FlexiPlus extruder with hardened gear goo.gl/R2UCbY & goo.gl/SGywgz
    Octopi
    - OctoPrint octoprint.org/
    ○ Dual cameras goo.gl/3DzLgy
    § Mobius - streaming, wide angle, visually check all is well, printer is on/off www.mobius-actioncam.com/
    § Logitech C920 - timelapse. Auto-focus disabled, exposure adjusted goo.gl/M6S1Ma
    ○ Plugins
    § Enclosure Plugin
    □ Multiple DS18B20 temperature sensors goo.gl/BNmjy8
    § Fullscreen Webcam
    § Navbar Temperature Plugin
    § DisplayProgress
    § EEPROM Marlin Editor Plugin
    § Fan Speed Control
    § Filament Sensor Reloaded
    § Firmware Updater
    § LED Control Strip
    □ RGB 5050 LED strips - front of fang and rear of x-gantry (g-code driven)
    □ RGB amplifier
    § Heater Timeout
    § Telegram Notifications
    § TP-Link Smartplug - turn on/off printer
    ○ Smart K smart plug - remotely turn on/off Raspberry Pi
    ○ Voice events using Google Text to Speech API goo.gl/k1duH5
    Firmware
    TH3D Unified Firmware goo.gl/nAjWmC
    ○ Custom boot screen
    External Monitoring
    Foscam 9831P - security camera , pan/tilt, audio (remotely listen to the printer) www.foscam.com/
    STL based mods (links TBA)
    Belt tensioner www.thingiverse.com/thing:241... & www.thingiverse.com/thing:267...
    Petsfang www.thingiverse.com/thing:275...
    Front LED Bar www.thingiverse.com/thing:280...
    Rear LED bar www.thingiverse.com/thing:272...
    Extruder clamp www.thingiverse.com/thing:279...
    Camera bed mount www.thingiverse.com/thing:277...
    Camera side mount
    Cable chain www.thingiverse.com/thing:249... www.thingiverse.com/thing:252...
    PSU external fan cover www.thingiverse.com/thing:234...
    Control case with integrated Raspi enclosure www.thingiverse.com/thing:254...
    Filament sensor holder www.thingiverse.com/thing:278...
    Music: Snow EP - Andrew Applepie
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ความคิดเห็น • 49

  • @shyam-ravi
    @shyam-ravi 6 ปีที่แล้ว

    Wow! You have just created your dream 3d printer!!!

  • @am030001
    @am030001 5 ปีที่แล้ว +1

    Wow, you convert a printer into a robot there, AWESOME 👌

  • @_Jeremyxlewis
    @_Jeremyxlewis 3 ปีที่แล้ว

    Awesome printer mate!

  • @midnight_gospel
    @midnight_gospel 6 ปีที่แล้ว

    Awesome video man. Thank you for this! :D

    • @yipzone
      @yipzone  6 ปีที่แล้ว

      Thanks. Just added a lot links in the video description.

  • @citronski
    @citronski 6 ปีที่แล้ว +1

    Mate, thats a nice Ender you have there. Mine is still stock, have to manythings to print.
    Did you use ABS for the hotend cooling stuff?

    • @yipzone
      @yipzone  6 ปีที่แล้ว

      Thanks. The blue part that goes beside the cooling block is just PLA. The red fang part is PETG. I don't think you need ABS or even PETG unless the fans are not doing their job.

  • @Vimstershir
    @Vimstershir 5 ปีที่แล้ว

    Nice inspiration to do the same!

  • @Rene046
    @Rene046 5 ปีที่แล้ว +1

    lol using capricorn .... look at around 3:00 the whole Pneumatic fitting is jumping back and forward... that a few mm.

  • @CuJu83
    @CuJu83 5 ปีที่แล้ว

    AWESOME 👍

  • @carbide1968
    @carbide1968 6 ปีที่แล้ว +1

    I love the lights. I am a noob at all this and wondered if you knew why my led lights flicker? Mostly when the bed is heating, i have the wires for the leds just inserted into the same connection the wires go in from the psu.

    • @yipzone
      @yipzone  6 ปีที่แล้ว

      Thanks. Sorry, electronics and wiring is not my forte. Hopefully, someone can chime in.

  • @lifeofasimrigmestizo6910
    @lifeofasimrigmestizo6910 6 ปีที่แล้ว +1

    Very nice, trying to catch up to your level.

    • @yipzone
      @yipzone  6 ปีที่แล้ว

      Thanks Dennis!

    • @midnight_gospel
      @midnight_gospel 6 ปีที่แล้ว

      Same 😂

    • @lifeofasimrigmestizo6910
      @lifeofasimrigmestizo6910 6 ปีที่แล้ว

      YipZone I was going to add that it won’t be until I am reincarnated in my next life but it might be longer than that, ahahhahahahahahhaaaaaaaaa!

    • @yipzone
      @yipzone  6 ปีที่แล้ว

      LOL

  • @pbucc72
    @pbucc72 6 ปีที่แล้ว

    love the mods. for the filament pause. is the octoprint on the raspberry and add on to the main board or does it replace it?

    • @yipzone
      @yipzone  6 ปีที่แล้ว

      Thanks. Not sure if this helps but this video shows a bit more about the Filament Sensor. th-cam.com/video/MdYCLt1asmk/w-d-xo.html
      I use the Filament Sensor Plugin for OctoPrint, plugins.octoprint.org/plugins/filament_sensor_reloaded/
      You can read more about it here github.com/kontakt/Octoprint-Filament-Reloaded
      And in OctoPrint, I used the afterPrintPaused and beforePrintResumed scripts from docs.octoprint.org/en/master/features/gcode_scripts.html

  • @MrLate6
    @MrLate6 4 ปีที่แล้ว

    Is it still worthy to buy ender2 in the consideration of its compact in size? any other suggestion?

  • @RudestBuddhist
    @RudestBuddhist 6 ปีที่แล้ว

    I got the MacEwen FlexiPLUS and the hardened metal gear, but I'm getting a lot of stringing and sometimes the gear clicks. What retraction settings are you using?

    • @yipzone
      @yipzone  6 ปีที่แล้ว

      Haha. Interesting avatar and name, just plain rude :D. Okay, my retraction setting is 3.5 but that's because of the MicroSwiss All Metal hotend.

    • @RudestBuddhist
      @RudestBuddhist 6 ปีที่แล้ว

      haha thanks :) I'm debating on doing that upgrade next, but I gotta calm down since I've dropped an additional $200 on top of the cost of the printer. I'm wondering if I should have just bought a CR-10S or Prusa to begin with.

  • @kaliboeshoots
    @kaliboeshoots 5 ปีที่แล้ว

    how did you connect the 5015 fan for part cooling on the SANGUINO board?
    Btw nice Job on your ender 2

    • @yipzone
      @yipzone  5 ปีที่แล้ว

      Connected to K-Fan on the Ender 2 board.

    • @kaliboeshoots
      @kaliboeshoots 5 ปีที่แล้ว

      thanks for the reply I realy appreciate it!
      I cannot find the K-Fan connector on the board layout (link is layout of the Ender 2 Sangiuno board)
      sc01.alicdn.com/kf/HTB1AufXf9YH8KJjSspdq6ARgVXaG.jpg

    • @yipzone
      @yipzone  5 ปีที่แล้ว

      The one with the pink line (Fan Reserve). On the board, it says "K Fan"

    • @kaliboeshoots
      @kaliboeshoots 5 ปีที่แล้ว

      @@yipzone thanks for you help

  • @Redemptioner1
    @Redemptioner1 6 ปีที่แล้ว

    locktite fixes the screws coming loose, not sure why you would go to an all metal hotend considering the printer has no case so what material are you going to print at higher temps without a case???

    • @yipzone
      @yipzone  6 ปีที่แล้ว

      At the moment, no plans to print higher temp materials but the all metal hotend came in handy when I was printing PLASteel which is more abrasive. Other than that, no, the stock hotend is fine. I bought the MicroSwiss when I was having jam issues with the stock hotend and the shop down the road sold the MicroSwiss but not a Creality replacement. Anyway, I did fix my stock hotend jam issues but I had to give the MicroSwiss a try. So I did and it's been on since.

  • @ekatolia
    @ekatolia 4 ปีที่แล้ว

    si tuviera autonivelado, seria perfecta

    • @yipzone
      @yipzone  4 ปีที่แล้ว

      It does have auto bed levelling. this one. th-cam.com/video/aUqbRsf7RFs/w-d-xo.html

  • @scootroter4859
    @scootroter4859 6 ปีที่แล้ว +1

    The best, easiest, and cheapest way to virtually silence and upgrade the quality substantially of the power supply on the Ender 2. Search Amazon USA for this ASIN: B01EWG6YT8
    Just put that number in the Amazon search bar. This fan, not only upgrades you to 30 amps, but is much better built and not so flimsy. Plus, the fan almost never runs. YES! When you turn it on, it is silent because the fan only runs once in a blue mo0n, and then it turns on for between 5 and 10 seconds! Yes, seconds! That's it. It's so much better quality you can feel it when you pick it up. The one that comes with the Ender 2 is very cheap quality. All for a shipped price of $18.56! I use these power supplies to charge my lipo batteries for my racing quadcopters. They work great and I have never had any issues with them. Just check out the 4.3 star rating on Amazon - 86% 4 and 5 stars! Even the factory black cover fits perfectly!

    • @yipzone
      @yipzone  6 ปีที่แล้ว

      Cool and cheap too. Not sure if you noticed my PSU is not the one that came with the Ender 2. The original blew up. I explained a bit in the original video but the video was too long so it didn't make the final cut.

    • @scootroter4859
      @scootroter4859 6 ปีที่แล้ว

      Yeah, I can understand why it blew up...the one that comes with the Ender 2 is really a cheapo! lol Thanks for the great video! :)

  • @michaelesser4886
    @michaelesser4886 6 ปีที่แล้ว

    Can you please send me your Start- and End- GCodes ?

    • @yipzone
      @yipzone  6 ปีที่แล้ว

      www.yipzone.com/files/start_gcode.txt
      www.yipzone.com/files/end_gcode.txt

    • @yipzone
      @yipzone  6 ปีที่แล้ว

      Note that the code includes variables like {material_bed_temperature} and {material_print_temperature}. In case you are not familiar, those are Cura variables, so if you use a different slicer, that will not work.

    • @michaelesser4886
      @michaelesser4886 6 ปีที่แล้ว

      Many Thanks for the Infos. where did you install the wires of your ABL-Sensor? Have you changed it with the Z-Endstop or another port ?

    • @yipzone
      @yipzone  6 ปีที่แล้ว

      I changed it with the Z-endstop

  • @Diogenes84
    @Diogenes84 6 ปีที่แล้ว

    this is the original board

    • @yipzone
      @yipzone  6 ปีที่แล้ว

      Yes, still using the original Melzi based board. Just reflashed with this firmware. www.th3dstudio.com/knowledge-base/th3d-unified-firmware/

    • @Diogenes84
      @Diogenes84 6 ปีที่แล้ว

      thx

  • @paulienet
    @paulienet 6 ปีที่แล้ว

    Ahhh and ummmm. Too many times....