The Creality Ender 2 - A surprisingly great 3D printer.
ฝัง
- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 28 ก.ย. 2024
- In this video we will assemble, tune, and review the Ender2 3D printer made by Creality. Spoiler alert: It's fantastic.
Support this channel on Patreon: / designprototypetest
Buy the printer from Gearbest: bit.ly/2FLrFld
Buy some ABS Filament from Gearbest: bit.ly/2IihwLr
The limit switch also belongs in the lower rail. ;-) A cover made of metal would be electrically conductive and here plastic is probably more advantageous. A Partcooling fan connector is already in the firmware and on the board next to the laser connector. Z Spacer can be found here www.thingiverse.com/thing:2526607 or www.thingiverse.com/thing:2752080
Hi Sven, Thanks for the great information. I've pinned your comment. It didn't even occur to me that the limit switch could be actuated by the pulley wheel (what a strange solution), which is why I never thought to put the original switch in the lower rail. As it turns out, my limit switch bracket is completely unnecessary, and the stock components will work fine.
Really great review! I am planning to get one of these.
Correct location of "Y" limit switch: Lower Slot, right hand side. Wheel triggers the switch.
FYI: I had the same problem :-(
See this picture (not mine) www.homofaciens.de/bilder/technik/3D-printer-Ender-build-instruction_020.htm
it does have parts cooling its just "indirect" parts cooling. it uses blow buy from the cold side hot end cooling fan to blow through onto the part. this is why the bottom is so "open" to allow for cooling.
sadly this is not as functional for tiny points and for underhangs.
you can get 150x160mm on the bed and you can goto 225mm on the Z no problem.
Does it require a mosfet for the heated bed for the long term high temperature prints?
The external mosfets, and SSRs that everyone is so fond of installing on their 3D printers are often times redundant. There is in fact a mosfet controller for the heated bed already installed as a part of the main control board. The problem is that many of these poorly designed Chinese 3D printers have inadequate heat sinks attached to the onboard mosfets. Hence the need for a mosfet or SSR unit. In the case of this printer, I do not see the need for an external controller for the heated bed. Reasons being 1)The onboard mosfet is sufficiently cooled with fan and heatsink, and 2)The bed is small on this printer so the load is not nearly as great as many of the other printers out there.
Ok thankyou just wonding because you did not bring it up and was a bit confused since its a small build volume.
I'm a little new to printing ABS, so apologies if this is a naive question, but can full part adhesion to the bed be accomplished at the printer's max temp of 60°C? With my current printer, I'm using glue stick @85°C with good results. This seems like a potentially very high value machine that I could use for some of my high volume small parts. Best, Chris
Hi Chris, No, print adhesion with ABS will not be good at a bed temperature of 60°C. Thankfully this one gets up to 100°C in under 5 minutes. Also, to get crack/check free ABS prints you really need to be printing in a sealed enclosure. The ambient temperature of the draft free air around your print should be between 40-60°C.
Oh, great, 100°C is fantastic. One of the vendor sites I looked at only rated it to 60. Just as long as the parts stay completely on the build plate, I'll be good. Did you experiment at all with taking parts to the outer edges of the build plate? This is looking like a machine worth trying, the more parts I can print at once, the better. Thx
Just get your limit switched adjusted correctly so that the nozzle lines up with the edges of your bed, and you should be able to use the entire printable area (no binder clips to get in the way). One thing you should know is that you will probably get surface imperfections when printing multiple parts at once unless you employ a number of tricks: Get your retraction settings correct, use Z-lift, and print inner walls first. Simplify3D might be a good purchase.
Thanks again, I'm sold on getting one to try out. I currently have good luck using Cura and my Rostock printing multiple parts, no issues with surface imperfections. Although bed adhesion is a problem if I do more than a ~6" circle, I need to figure that out... But I digress, this will be great for printing batches of some blocks I designed, if all goes well, I might end up with a small farm, Lol
All the best to you
the new model like he has SHOULD be able to hit 100c in gcode.
The ender 2 is nothing short of amazing. I have 9 of them and absolutely love them to death. high quality lowest noise prints of any of the 40 machines I Have.
A 3-5 frame dissolve would have smoothed that opening segment in those two cuts. ;-)
Kevin Loughin This channel wouldn't be the channel that it is without the abrupt, terrifying cuts to a closeup of this guy's face ;)
Thanks for the review, I just got mine and am amazed so far with the printer for the $175 that I spent on it shipped from 3dprintersbay.com, I had mine in 3 days after ordering.
7Westwood I wanna order mine from there trust worthy site? Can't find it much any we're else
dingokorn 3dprintersbay.com was awesome, I had the printer in 3 days and receive emails from them regularly. I would highly recommend them. I have ordered from GearBest before and it took much longer. Good luck. You will love the printer.
A little research beforehand would've had you spouting correct information instead of doing a review and giving incorrect information to the viewer.
The firmware on the E2 & CR10 is flashable, but you have to install a bootloader first. It's doable using an arduino uno, raspberry pi, and I've heard some doing it with an AVRdude.
Good work shimming the Motor, some have issues with that. There's plenty of designs on thingiverse.
The Y limit switch either you installed incorrectly, or I magically got one that worked.
It's by no means an "ABS machine". The control box is fixed to the base, and enclosing it would shorten it's life. To do so, you'd have to remove the control box & electronics, and extend the cables to get it far enough away to create an enclosure.
There's readymade auto bed levelling kits for it, and ports for it onboard. There's ports for part cooling fans onboard also. Any CR-10 fan duct will fit.
Thanks for the information Joe. Try not to be so rude about it next time. As it stands I already spend WAY too much time making these videos, and this video is going to make me about $20. I depend on people like you to give me feedback and help spread good info. I even pin the most helpful comments to the top.
I'm a fulltime dad too, and somehow I had the time aswell. Amazing isn't it? If calling it as I see it is rude, then so be it.
wow just wow... Look at the pot calling the kettle black.. shesh.. Maybe a little research would inform you that AVRdude isnt some sort of hardware. It is in fact a flashing utility to write bits to ROM/EEPROM. The Arduino IDE uses AVRdude to flash code. Similarly if you use an RPi's SPI lines to flash a bootloader you'd use AVRdude. Basically the only time you wouldn't is if you had an official ATMEL programmer like the STK500, dragon etc.
avrisp, whatever. I used a pi to load the bootloader to my E2. Crap, I got half a word wrong!
the cover is like that for 2 reasons. it looks nicer (the original machine did not have the ugly power supply but had a nice "brick" like a laptop that you plugged in.)
its also acrylic which is much cheaper and most of them are already "tooled" for making. molding a part that large would cost a lot more than just bending the very nice looking cosmetic acrylic cover.
The power supply could do with an on-off switch. Maybe that's the first mod to do.
love mine, no problems had it almost a year. use it along with my cr-10s
how loud is it and is it still working well?
I've just ordered this on the strength of three reviews.
He should put that Y limit switch bracket on here for others. I ended up modding the only 1 adjustable one I found on thingiverse and it works ok but istn't quite long enough and limits my bed travel from using the front 20mm of the bed. I may have to try to make my own on Tinkercad as I am trying to learn it anyway. Great review as always!
You don't need a bracket. I installed the sensor incorrectly. As Lewis Balentine commented earlier this is how the sensor should be installed so that it gets activated by the pulley wheel: www.homofaciens.de/bilder/technik/3D-printer-Ender-build-instruction_020.htm
Hi there; one trick I learned from a pal: toss the printer bed plastic pad and clip on a piece of glass. Then instead of a glue stick spray on unscented Aqua Net hair spray.
Minute 1: black printer in a black table. Mmmm....
Good Point.
ender 2 or TEVO Michelangelo. what one should i get bed size dnt matter to me. all i want to know which 1 prints off better
Get the Ender 2. While the Michelangelo has a better more compact design, and has some better components and a part cooling fan, it lacks a heated bed. Unless you only plan on printing with PLA you will need a bed heater. It is much easier to add a part cooling fan to the Ender 2 than it is to add a bed heater to the Michelangelo.
im only planning on using pla tbh.
On mine, one limit switch was dead - got a replacement from Gearbest though after a few weeks. Didn't have any of your other problems. Also, I love the print quality of this machine.
Nice start :)
Huh? It's just looking like my Tronxy X1...
I reviewed that printer too: th-cam.com/video/kk2StgI1Xqg/w-d-xo.html
Your lucky I ordered 1 in January and it still hasn't arrived!
Gearbest sent this to me in December. I'm just now getting around to making the video.
Hey, did you know like 7 people have stolen your video and claimed it as their own?
Really? Do you have links?
Do a search on TH-cam "Creality Ender 2" and sort by Upload Date.
The first 2 are your video, as you'll see your video many more times before you see your name ever pop up.
This is not a review.... at least not of the Ender 2... You made modifications to it and reviewed the altered printer.. But as always thanks for the funny video........
Fair enough but as another commentor pointed out, I didn't need to make a custom bracket for the limit switch. I just needed to place the original bracket in the lower rail so that the switch was actuated by being bumped by one of the pulley wheels. So, all of that section of the video was just me doing work I didn't need to do. But now my printer has a nice green accent to it. :)
Design Prototype Test try to follow the manual next time, and make a script with correct facts. If you are not 100% certain, don't say that. Like the jumper that you pointed out and blabbed some things about that I don't think was correct. I think that jumper is to choose where from you want to power the board(usb or powersupply)....