Speaking of z axis binding, I too had that issue. I resolved it quite easily by rolling the z screw across a flat wooden surface with moderate pressure. This fixed my issues as my z screw was slightly warped. I have been using my printer daily for months, and with some basic cleaning and maintenance, have had no further issues with the performance of my printer.
Great job Michael, Not just explaining how things are done etc. but the way you say it. not to fast. and not to slow. .. definitely the upgrades I"m going to put on my Ender 3 when it comes in!
Just bought a Ender-3 and will have it in a couple of days. I already own a Anet A8 and have only used it for a couple of weeks. I am enjoying 3d printing as a possible new hobby. I bought the Ender-3 because I like the idea of a more solid frame and some experience with a bowden system. I appreciate your videos and the information you provide. Thanks!
Great list of updates and glad to see the X3D Filament! Yeah I think that middle version was just bad QC and I got a bad one. The latest version has a removable bed and everyone seems to love it.
I agree. I've tried many of the other local options and X3D seems to be the best filament I've come across - especially as I can just drive to their warehouse in Perth if I run out of something I need. I think the worst was Blueprint3D. The package came from NSW to WA without a box (the filament boxes were taped together with a shipping tag slapped on) and the PLA, PETG and TPU rolls would print for about three minutes before snapping. Yes, even the TPU snapped. It was $350 essentially flushed down the toilet.
Should check out 3D-FUEL.com. In my opinion the best PLA on the market. They have 3 grades, depending on strength and heat resistance you want. The top is as strong as ABS and we have used it to print casting prototypes and machine them in our CNC Mills.
Thanks for making this video. I'd like to add one caution about using that filament guide on the extruder. Over time it becomes loose and during a print it can come off the metal bracket and jam up the filament causing the extruder to start skipping misfeed. This happened to me several times. I solved it by drilling out the hole for the filament in the extruder arm where the filament normally goes through to slide a short piece of Bowden tube through. The hole is sized so that the short piece of tube is a tight enough fit to keep it from moving. The tube is long enough to clear the threaded Z rod and is pushed far enough in through the extruder arm so that it's almost touching the filament feed rollers to minimize flexing of the filament which is especially important when printing with flexible material such as TPU and Nylon.
13:08, Make sure you dont move the axis too fast - it lit up the LCD when you moved the bed back. Do it slowly, otherwise you risk damaging the drivers or motherboard.
Love this, wish we could print a fan blade, the hot end fan melted when a threaded part came loose and oozed a ton of filament through and killed the fan
For the petsfang v2 he printed, I have a few questions. 1.) Which model does he print in the video? There are like three files on thingiverse that say CR10, so I’m not sure which one to print 2.) Do I need any extra hardware? He mentions using the stock screws a few times, but there is one bolt in particular he doesn’t comment on 3.) Should I just print the newer “Bullseye” model because this video is about a year old?
@@the_crazy_bee1787 I ended up going with the Bullseye, there’s a bunch more documentation and a table for which files to print based on what hardware you have. It’s served me well for the year that I’ve had it, and I’ve only had to replace it once when I bumped into it by accident. I would highly recommend it, haha.
that's sold me on the ender 3 (vs cr10). i like the bigger print bed of the cr10, but with these mods the ender3 (also being newer) will be the better option for my needs. thanks!
Thanks for the video. I just ordered my first printer today, and this helps give me ideas on things I can print to get everything working right as well as getting to know the software/printer.
Good video, but in need of some updates... (1) The fan guard has been updated with vertical fins to avoid needing support during printing, (2) The PCB LCD cover has been modified to allow using the factory screws, (3) The slide on filament guide has numerous complaints of squeaking noises, and failure to remain attached
Side mount bracket for the spool is way better than the little extender attachment, moves whole spool to next to the feeder. Also the spool reel inserts so the spool spins on its axis.
Spool reel inserts, got link? Also i was wondering if the side mount is better or not since the angle of the feed will change with the amount of filament left.
@@CluelessSi It's still much better on the side. Way less of a harsh angle and so the filament doesn't wear away the extruder plastic. I also suggest an all metal extruder as well.
I just got the ender 3 and it’s amazing! I also have a Cr-10! The ender is very great for starting. I had no fails so far, it’s first print was amazing! And the second print was flexible, yes... this $200 printer can print flexible!!! It’s so cool! I definitely recommend this printer!!
I'm getting the Ender 3 as my first ever 3D Printer...! Can't wait till arrives.! Already have printing MODs to do when I set it all up. Nice quality of life parts.
I use a carbon fiber plate as my printing bed. A little gluestick and everything sticks well. If the print is done, I remove the plate from the printer, twist it and the print comes off easily. Then I put the plate under water to clean it.
At 13:08 when you push your bed back, you notice the screen lights up. You just generated power with your stepper motors. This can damage your electronics so I suggest not doing that. You can still manually push the bed or hot end but slow it down so that the steppers don't generate enough power to mess anything up.
I'm getting my Ender 3 next week. These items will be my first build. This being my first 3D printer. I will implement your ideas. I am an HP certified Printer Tech and know the value of making these modifications to make the printer last longer. Thank you for your video.
I have been looking into the Ender 3 Pro for a while now. Literally just bought it as I'm watching your video. However, not from amazon. I went on a site called Banggood and they have the Pro model for 206.00, 30.00 dollars cheaper than on Amazon. They also have a coupon that expires on September 15th, and the shipping was free too! All in all I paid 194.00 for the whole thing! I reviewed the site and it looks like a reputable company so fingers crossed. Thank you for the inspiration! I will join the Ender gang soon.
Great video my printer arrives in 3 days, first thing I will do after assembly is to follow this tutorial upgrade. Quality explanations and camera angles, keep it up
@@carlnikolov yes I got my printer, from the moment I unpack it I knew it was quality, all the materials feels really solid and all the parts were nicely pack and organise. I took me about an hour to assemble , was really easy I just followed youtube tutorial, The printer itself is really good printing and I already made the 4 upgrades with self printed parts. I am a 3d artist so I am, having plenty fun creating things and printing them out. I recommend anyone this printer. is really amazing for the price.
At 7:13 you assumed that you would need longer bolts. I my experience that was not needed., The constructor has made the bolt holes in the cover so that the original can be used - you just have to push them down the bolt hole (easy enough when you knowk that it is possible). I did that and it fits nicely.
I just got my first printer and it's an Ender 3. I've been watching these excellent vids for the guidance and information on what to do :) Fan guard printed and fixed in place :) Now to continue with this vid and printing and fixing :D Thank you for these absolutely excellent videos!
@@TeachingTech you may know now but the reason the z motor binds is the bracket isn't bent perfectly square. Reshape the bracket to a perfect 90 degrees and you won't need the spacers
My first printer is the Ender 3 aswel. Had it for some time now and think I have it running just as it should be. They can be a temprimental beast for sure but the results for an entry level printer are astounding.
@TeachingTech Which piece is the larger one for the new fan duct? I found the smaller piece, but you never mentioned the name of the other one. I don't know maybe he changed the model, or maybe i'm just not the sharpest knife in the drawer
I've bought the anycubic ultrabase for my ender 3 it's the best surface I've tried. There's one ultrabase for the ender 3 listed on the creality store on aliexpress. That's going to be my next go to
I have been looking at getting an Ender 3 and this video was reassuring for me after watching Angus do his review. I was impressed by this video and hit like, subscribe and the bell straight after viewing.
These are all great and if I get this I will print all of these except the last one. The past one is complicated and there is an easier print on thingyverse that just clip's on to the bottom of the turbo fan to direct the flow better. It's much easier to print to
At 10 min in you say it only requires one screw but it has a reset screw for a second screw. It's supposed to have two holding it in place using the factory mounting screws that's why the fan doesn't screw in on the corner.
the z axis binding can be fixed by flipping the rod and loosen the brass colored part and tightening it after. fixed the binding in my ender 3 v1 but i may print the part in the future if binding ever occurs
Really excellent video 👍 Super helpful and I appreciate that you actually show each step, disassemble and assemble. One thing...I wonder if it would be helpful to regularly recommend that the printer be unplugged before working on it...?
I was on the fence about getting this. Watching this video I feel like if there are problems most are going to be managable. Thanks and you gained a sub today!
You Need to install diodes, when you pushed the bed back your lcd lit up due to the electrons generated by the steppers, I’d hate to see you burn out the pcb, would make a cool video !
I kind of hacked the filament guide. I attached the arm on the side of the printer rather than top. I don't print things tall enough for the spool to get in a way, and if i suddenly want to, i can reposition the spool!
Thanks about that! I have the same issue with the Z-motor not being aligned (which disallows the motor to push the X-axis bar). However, I also have an issue with the bed not being flat, which is a problem (not super fan of buying a glass as everyone else).
Hey there, I have filament, but it's not on a roll, it's just a plastic bag with the filament curled up in it. Is there any roll or spool I can print to make it a bit easier? Currently I just have this curled filament lying next to my Ender 3 or hanging up on the filament holder, but it usually falls off. Anyone has any ideas or tips? Also thanks for this and other videos you did on the Ender 3, it's really helping me understand and improve my knowledge on 3D printing!
Thank you for telling me about the z axis spacers! I've been struggling with it jamming all day. Trying to print a mini figure and every time it would get to the head, the z axis would jam and wreck it. Finally I can get it to work!
Maybe. But the real problem is that the bracket comes pre-assembled onto the motor, and most people just screw the bracket to the frame. If the bracket is loosened from the motor before it is screwed to the frame, and then the motor tightened down on the bracket, it lines up perfectly with the frame and shims are not needed.
Teaching Tech I just got my ender 3 from Amazon 3 days ago. Used it the 1st time last night did the test print.Now going to start on the upgrades listed above.The cable guard is pretty cool looking.thanks again
What is your opinion on side feeding the spool instead of the brackets to guide the filament, I've booked marked all you vids, I'm inpressed by the quality of your videos. thank you
Thanks Michael for this video! I've printed and implemented most of these on my Ender 3 Pro. I'm debating whether to do the cable-chain or just use cable-ties. Subbed!
Sorry to bother you, but first thank you for the great instruction videos. As an 82 year old who just taken up this hobby!! I have purchased a Ender-3 Pro and you have been very helpful getting me started. But I do have question for you I noticed that you used the knob on the control panel to move the Z axis arm up!! can you please tell me how to do this as I am unable to find that command in the screen options. regards Malcolm.
Very helpful. Though, the most beneficial mod is converting from bowden tube to direct feed into the hot end. It should have come that way from the factory. The difference is a plate and some screws...
Except for the fact it will increase the weight of the X-axis gantry A LOT, which will require either a better quality snare/belt or a linear slider to stop some of the springy behavior the X-axis can have when printing certain types of details along the Y-axis plane (I have a lot of ringing and have tried setting up belt tension different a couple of times, but it has never helped getting rid of it, except printing slower (25-30mm/sec). I am definitely interested in trying this mod out some day (mostly because I feel friction in the tube can be a problem), but I am fearful for some of the negative effects it could have (which is also, increasing the weight of the Z-axis making it harder for the Z-axis stepper to move it).
Excellent video very useful information, I ordered my Ender 3 from eBay Australia I'm definitely printing and installing all these upgrades straight away.
awesome video my friend, after all your reviews, I have a ender 3 coming in a couple of weeks/months depending on the covid shipping process. Thanks for getting me started.
Great video! Had my Ender 3 for a while but have only upgraded it with the Petsfang and extruder filament guide. Going to do almost all the mods you have linked to now! :D
The same question as I notice several of your other followers have recently asked: which pets fang suits Ender 3? There seem to be several to choose from, but the one linked to the video doesn't appear appropriate for reusing factory supplied hardware, and only seems to contain 1 part(the duct) no additional fan casing. Please could you point me ( and obviously a few others ) in the right direction. Otherwise I think your videos & presentation are great, keep them coming they're a great help.
Tnx for the vid, but what I really would like to see is the preparation for each upgrade in de slicer software. That is what really teaches us how to properly setup the gcode. I love the ender 3 so far. But there is such an overwhelming amount on information on the interwebz and most of the time the youtubers skip the part of the preparation and go straight to the print it self of the review of the already printed part! Tnx !!
Teaching Tech it al starts with leveling the bed. But i cant seem to get the bed 100%. I know there are a lot of other videos but not one specific for the ender 3. Since this is going to be probably one of the most popular printers I would love to see a bed levering video just for the ender 3. I think it already starts with the wheels underneath the bed. But you probably know that beter than me! :-p
Top video mate...Very simple to follow I cant wait fir the BLtouch..... I recently just bought one for ender 3 but i have no wiring experience cant wait for that awsome video
The low filament guide snap in does more harm than good. My experience is the same as many reviewers. While it stays on, which isn't for long, it causes under extrusions and damages prints.
Great informative video.. Thank you.. Question, I am considering the Ender 3 but I see there is a pro version as well.. Should I spend the extra for the pro version or get the normal Ender 3?
Is that shroud "safe" to print in PLA? It looks awfully close to the hot end, and PLA can soften and start sagging just from being left in a hot car. You should probably take it apart and inspect it after a few prints, and especially check it if you print with a material requiring a hotter end, such as PETG.
no need. you will never get enough heat across that airgap to effect the part in pla. NOW if you intend to use an enclosure. ok you would need something other than PLA possibly.
I like the filament path tweaks, but wouldn't the best option be to remove the spool from the frame and set it beside the printer? Even with the upgrades, there are several points where the filament will rub against plastic.
Thank You Mickael for all your good videos from a real Noobie. I cannot for the life of me find the duel fan surround that you used in the video that you blew through sounding like a train. I have printed the inside bit but with all the other outer surrounds I cant get the upper fan to fit in place as it has that protrusion on the top that would have prevented you from blowing through it. Any help would be great. Cheers
@@allen6778 Thanks Allen I do realise that the train sound was a joke, but I was trying to say that Michael's version of the duel surround is not available in the links below. If you are referring to the Petstang files, each one has a protrusion sticking up for a different style of upper fan that would have prevented him from blowing through it. That's the one I want and can't find anywhere. Please help.
I must be missing something here. All the base downloads for this you need to add a nut inside. You mention that you must cut the threads in the base. Can you look again at the files and let be know which base does not need nuts installed? Also, I cannot find the file for the petsfang duct that uses the stock parts cooling fan that you printed in this video. All the petsfang cooling duct uses the round fans, and not the stock fans. Thanks
well I looked thru all of the files and chart on Petsfang for the fan mount and duct, but none of them looked like the ones you are using. I'm I missing something? Did they change the file design? I have an Ender3 the same as in the video.
good video and i realy like the upgrade parts after i build it and do the test print after adding more line so it makes a full test print i will be printing all the upgrade parts be for i do anything els the biggest thing i did not like about seeing this 3d printer was no back cover for the lcd screen i allmost did not buy it just due to that alone so i am so happy to find a cover all the parts are good big upgrades thanks a lot for listing them if u can list more parts i can print would be a big help
Hello! very interesting and informative, I love it! I have a question: I have a very old CR7 3D printer, but right now the motherboard has deteriorated, I bought a new ender 3 clearity v4.2.2 the question is that I did not take into account the power supply of the board, that is: 24 volt power is written on the new dress and 12 volt power supply on the old one. so I have to buy another 24 volt power supply or does this board have the function of working on both voltages> 24 volts and 12 volts ??? thanks for the reply in advance! Best regards, George!
Thank boss. I just did an unboxing video and assembly of the Ender 3. I recently started to do some actual large prints and they fail. The z isn’t parallel to the bed. It seems to be uneven on one end. Hopefully that z mod will fix it.
Funny first thing this morning my print barfed part way through c40% or 2 hr print, I connected up an iMAC and thought I'd try Cura & USB print not copy to SD card. Forgot the screen save/sleep settings in the iMAc will effect Cura...not sure that is ideal however the printer seems to have just frozen, with heaters still on etc. The nozzle had melted a nice hole in the PLA on another component on the bed ...but the "Filament guide snap in (up high)" had printed enough to be usable, the rest was junk. Lucky was in the room still :-)
Speaking of z axis binding, I too had that issue. I resolved it quite easily by rolling the z screw across a flat wooden surface with moderate pressure. This fixed my issues as my z screw was slightly warped. I have been using my printer daily for months, and with some basic cleaning and maintenance, have had no further issues with the performance of my printer.
00:00 - Intro
00:15 - Summary
00:39 - Fan Cover
01:03 - Common Issues
01:52 - Filament Guides
04:16 - Z-Axis Shims
06:13 - LCD PCB Cover
08:06 - Hot End Cooling Duct
12:40 - Ribbon Cable Clip
13:30 - Honorable Mentions
14:22 - Outro
thanks
Just got my ender 3 , so thx . Nice to see someone still going through install, instead of showing some of the relevant in time lapse.
Thanks for watching.
Great job Michael, Not just explaining how things are done etc. but the way you say it. not to fast. and not to slow. .. definitely the upgrades I"m going to put on my Ender 3 when it comes in!
Just bought a Ender-3 and will have it in a couple of days. I already own a Anet A8 and have only used it for a couple of weeks. I am enjoying 3d printing as a possible new hobby. I bought the Ender-3 because I like the idea of a more solid frame and some experience with a bowden system.
I appreciate your videos and the information you provide.
Thanks!
im very srry u bought a ender 3 lol
The 3D community is amazing, I know machinists were becoming TH-cam friendly, but this is such a jump forward.
Great list of updates and glad to see the X3D Filament! Yeah I think that middle version was just bad QC and I got a bad one. The latest version has a removable bed and everyone seems to love it.
I watched your live stream during my review period, was amazed at poorly it was printing. Thanks very much for watching and commenting.
Indeed
I agree. I've tried many of the other local options and X3D seems to be the best filament I've come across - especially as I can just drive to their warehouse in Perth if I run out of something I need.
I think the worst was Blueprint3D. The package came from NSW to WA without a box (the filament boxes were taped together with a shipping tag slapped on) and the PLA, PETG and TPU rolls would print for about three minutes before snapping. Yes, even the TPU snapped. It was $350 essentially flushed down the toilet.
Better PCB Cover using Factory Screws. www.thingiverse.com/thing:2987100
Nicer looking Ribbon Cable Cover www.thingiverse.com/thing:2989832
Should check out 3D-FUEL.com. In my opinion the best PLA on the market. They have 3 grades, depending on strength and heat resistance you want. The top is as strong as ABS and we have used it to print casting prototypes and machine them in our CNC Mills.
Thanks for making this video. I'd like to add one caution about using that filament guide on the extruder. Over time it becomes loose and during a print it can come off the metal bracket and jam up the filament causing the extruder to start skipping misfeed. This happened to me several times. I solved it by drilling out the hole for the filament in the extruder arm where the filament normally goes through to slide a short piece of Bowden tube through. The hole is sized so that the short piece of tube is a tight enough fit to keep it from moving. The tube is long enough to clear the threaded Z rod and is pushed far enough in through the extruder arm so that it's almost touching the filament feed rollers to minimize flexing of the filament which is especially important when printing with flexible material such as TPU and Nylon.
Great tip, thank you.
for the one to fix the exposed PCB behind the LCD screen you can use the same bolts
13:08, Make sure you dont move the axis too fast - it lit up the LCD when you moved the bed back. Do it slowly, otherwise you risk damaging the drivers or motherboard.
You're totally right. Normally I'm more careful with this.
Love this, wish we could print a fan blade, the hot end fan melted when a threaded part came loose and oozed a ton of filament through and killed the fan
I've printed all the upgrades in this video. Yes, these upgrades are helpful. Thanks thingiverse.
thank you teaching tech aswell!
How do you attach the first design.
For the petsfang v2 he printed, I have a few questions.
1.) Which model does he print in the video? There are like three files on thingiverse that say CR10, so I’m not sure which one to print
2.) Do I need any extra hardware? He mentions using the stock screws a few times, but there is one bolt in particular he doesn’t comment on
3.) Should I just print the newer “Bullseye” model because this video is about a year old?
@@loganeasley4343 What did you end up going with?
@@the_crazy_bee1787 I ended up going with the Bullseye, there’s a bunch more documentation and a table for which files to print based on what hardware you have. It’s served me well for the year that I’ve had it, and I’ve only had to replace it once when I bumped into it by accident. I would highly recommend it, haha.
that's sold me on the ender 3 (vs cr10). i like the bigger print bed of the cr10, but with these mods the ender3 (also being newer) will be the better option for my needs. thanks!
I mounted my Roll of Filament on the left side and that works perfectly !!!!
Thanks for the video. I just ordered my first printer today, and this helps give me ideas on things I can print to get everything working right as well as getting to know the software/printer.
There is one more mod. Tool holder that goes on the top of the printer to hold allen keys and scraper.
Good suggestion.
Ayyyy
Good video, but in need of some updates... (1) The fan guard has been updated with vertical fins to avoid needing support during printing, (2) The PCB LCD cover has been modified to allow using the factory screws, (3) The slide on filament guide has numerous complaints of squeaking noises, and failure to remain attached
Side mount bracket for the spool is way better than the little extender attachment, moves whole spool to next to the feeder. Also the spool reel inserts so the spool spins on its axis.
Spool reel inserts, got link? Also i was wondering if the side mount is better or not since the angle of the feed will change with the amount of filament left.
@@CluelessSi It's still much better on the side. Way less of a harsh angle and so the filament doesn't wear away the extruder plastic. I also suggest an all metal extruder as well.
I just got the ender 3 and it’s amazing! I also have a Cr-10! The ender is very great for starting. I had no fails so far, it’s first print was amazing! And the second print was flexible, yes... this $200 printer can print flexible!!! It’s so cool! I definitely recommend this printer!!
Glad to hear your experience is so positive.
U should print yourself a T handle for ur allen wrench it helps alot when working on the printer
I'm getting the Ender 3 as my first ever 3D Printer...! Can't wait till arrives.! Already have printing MODs to do when I set it all up. Nice quality of life parts.
8:19 I literally just hotglued a second blower flan with a shroud to the other side makes a big difference
the petsfang is meant to be printed flat with supports from the base only. There are six channels inside that might not print right upright.
@johnnysimon Hey man can you point me towards which petsfang to use? I can't find the correct one to print
I use a carbon fiber plate as my printing bed. A little gluestick and everything sticks well. If the print is done, I remove the plate from the printer, twist it and the print comes off easily. Then I put the plate under water to clean it.
Carbon fibre plate! Never heard of that. If I come across a sheet I will try it.
Teaching Tech yeah you should give it a try. Make sure your plate is around 1mm thick
At 13:08 when you push your bed back, you notice the screen lights up. You just generated power with your stepper motors. This can damage your electronics so I suggest not doing that. You can still manually push the bed or hot end but slow it down so that the steppers don't generate enough power to mess anything up.
You're spot on, I was too quick here. Interestingly enough to smoothers have the bonus of protecting from this.
Found this while doing research on what printers to buy as a beginner. I'll definitely take these into consideration should I get the Ender 3.
I'm getting my Ender 3 next week. These items will be my first build. This being my first 3D printer. I will implement your ideas. I am an HP certified Printer Tech and know the value of making these modifications to make the printer last longer. Thank you for your video.
I have been looking into the Ender 3 Pro for a while now. Literally just bought it as I'm watching your video. However, not from amazon. I went on a site called Banggood and they have the Pro model for 206.00, 30.00 dollars cheaper than on Amazon. They also have a coupon that expires on September 15th, and the shipping was free too! All in all I paid 194.00 for the whole thing!
I reviewed the site and it looks like a reputable company so fingers crossed. Thank you for the inspiration! I will join the Ender gang soon.
Great video my printer arrives in 3 days, first thing I will do after assembly is to follow this tutorial upgrade. Quality explanations and camera angles, keep it up
Did you get your printer yet? How did it go?
@@carlnikolov yes I got my printer, from the moment I unpack it I knew it was quality, all the materials feels really solid and all the parts were nicely pack and organise. I took me about an hour to assemble , was really easy I just followed youtube tutorial, The printer itself is really good printing and I already made the 4 upgrades with self printed parts. I am a 3d artist so I am, having plenty fun creating things and printing them out. I recommend anyone this printer. is really amazing for the price.
@@puzzlemagnet1957 are you using cura design program?
@@carlnikolov I use cura only to set the prints, for my 3d creations I use autodesk Maya, I am a professional of the 3d modeling industry
By far one of the best Ender 3 info sources on youtube. Thank you very much for making these videos!
At 7:13 you assumed that you would need longer bolts. I my experience that was not needed., The constructor has made the bolt holes in the cover so that the original can be used - you just have to push them down the bolt hole (easy enough when you knowk that it is possible). I did that and it fits nicely.
Hey I just wanted to Thank You for your Ender 3 videos I just set it up today and I've printed 5 of your 7 upgades and they all came out pretty good.
Glad to hear.
I just got my first printer and it's an Ender 3. I've been watching these excellent vids for the guidance and information on what to do :)
Fan guard printed and fixed in place :) Now to continue with this vid and printing and fixing :D
Thank you for these absolutely excellent videos!
You're welcome, thanks for watching.
@@TeachingTech you may know now but the reason the z motor binds is the bracket isn't bent perfectly square. Reshape the bracket to a perfect 90 degrees and you won't need the spacers
My first printer is the Ender 3 aswel. Had it for some time now and think I have it running just as it should be. They can be a temprimental beast for sure but the results for an entry level printer are astounding.
@TeachingTech Which piece is the larger one for the new fan duct? I found the smaller piece, but you never mentioned the name of the other one. I don't know maybe he changed the model, or maybe i'm just not the sharpest knife in the drawer
"Let's remove these."
TT: Snaps them off.
Me: Has to get a jackhammer and a blowtorch...
I've bought the anycubic ultrabase for my ender 3 it's the best surface I've tried. There's one ultrabase for the ender 3 listed on the creality store on aliexpress. That's going to be my next go to
I have one sitting around, I'll probably put it on for my BLtouch video. Stay tuned.
I have been looking at getting an Ender 3 and this video was reassuring for me after watching Angus do his review. I was impressed by this video and hit like, subscribe and the bell straight after viewing.
These are all great and if I get this I will print all of these except the last one. The past one is complicated and there is an easier print on thingyverse that just clip's on to the bottom of the turbo fan to direct the flow better. It's much easier to print to
At 10 min in you say it only requires one screw but it has a reset screw for a second screw. It's supposed to have two holding it in place using the factory mounting screws that's why the fan doesn't screw in on the corner.
I has similar Z axis grinding when I built my Ender 3, I found that losening the screws that hold the Z-axis wheels on did the trick for me.
the z axis binding can be fixed by flipping the rod and loosen the brass colored part and tightening it after. fixed the binding in my ender 3 v1 but i may print the part in the future if binding ever occurs
Thanks for going through all of these, really helpful. Just got my Ender 3.
Really excellent video 👍
Super helpful and I appreciate that you actually show each step, disassemble and assemble. One thing...I wonder if it would be helpful to regularly recommend that the printer be unplugged before working on it...?
Your videos are simple and easy to understand. 👍👍👍
Thanks for this it was very informative i have one on order and these will be my first experiments.....well done 👍
Thanks for watching and happy printing :)
I am about to order one, and I was trying to think of what my first few prints should be, and this is perfect.
Yet again you come through with the goods! Thanks for spending the time to share this with us.
I was on the fence about getting this. Watching this video I feel like if there are problems most are going to be managable. Thanks and you gained a sub today!
You Need to install diodes, when you pushed the bed back your lcd lit up due to the electrons generated by the steppers, I’d hate to see you burn out the pcb, would make a cool video !
I kind of hacked the filament guide. I attached the arm on the side of the printer rather than top. I don't print things tall enough for the spool to get in a way, and if i suddenly want to, i can reposition the spool!
Isn't the Petfang designed to be printed laying down? I had zero issues printing it flat.
You are quite right, I didn't realise at the time.
Its a very clever design. And yes printed it laying flat too. No supports needed at all.
Thanks about that! I have the same issue with the Z-motor not being aligned (which disallows the motor to push the X-axis bar).
However, I also have an issue with the bed not being flat, which is a problem (not super fan of buying a glass as everyone else).
Automatic bed levelling in an option that can fix that without resorting to glass.
Thanks! Those are amazing upgrades! great for newbie like me..
These are some nice finds. The filament guides made a huge difference!
Hey there, I have filament, but it's not on a roll, it's just a plastic bag with the filament curled up in it. Is there any roll or spool I can print to make it a bit easier? Currently I just have this curled filament lying next to my Ender 3 or hanging up on the filament holder, but it usually falls off. Anyone has any ideas or tips? Also thanks for this and other videos you did on the Ender 3, it's really helping me understand and improve my knowledge on 3D printing!
You need to buy a master spool or print one. it's to make the pla cheaper and you slid it on the master spool
@@dingokorn Thanks! I was sure there was something to work with, but I had no idea what to look for ;)
Thank you for telling me about the z axis spacers! I've been struggling with it jamming all day.
Trying to print a mini figure and every time it would get to the head, the z axis would jam and wreck it. Finally I can get it to work!
I know this is old now, but the bracket isn't bent a perfect 90 degrees is why that motor was binding.
Maybe. But the real problem is that the bracket comes pre-assembled onto the motor, and most people just screw the bracket to the frame. If the bracket is loosened from the motor before it is screwed to the frame, and then the motor tightened down on the bracket, it lines up perfectly with the frame and shims are not needed.
Great upgrades. However, can you provide a file link for each upgrade shown? I find many useful and cannot locate the file for printing.
Thanks
Rich
Thank you very much for the links for the upgrades
No problem. Planning a follow up with more printable upgrades now that the printer has been in the wild for longer.
Teaching Tech I just got my ender 3 from Amazon 3 days ago. Used it the 1st time last night did the test print.Now going to start on the upgrades listed above.The cable guard is pretty cool looking.thanks again
What is your opinion on side feeding the spool instead of the brackets to guide the filament, I've booked marked all you vids, I'm inpressed by the quality of your videos. thank you
Thanks Michael for this video! I've printed and implemented most of these on my Ender 3 Pro. I'm debating whether to do the cable-chain or just use cable-ties. Subbed!
Sorry to bother you, but first thank you for the great instruction videos. As an 82 year old who just taken up this hobby!! I have purchased a Ender-3 Pro and you have been very helpful getting me started. But I do have question for you I noticed that you used the knob on the control panel to move the Z axis arm up!! can you please tell me how to do this as I am unable to find that command in the screen options. regards Malcolm.
Hi Malcolm, don't have the printer in front of me but it should be under the prepare menu. See here:
marlinfw.org/docs/features/lcd_menu.html
Very helpful. Though, the most beneficial mod is converting from bowden tube to direct feed into the hot end. It should have come that way from the factory. The difference is a plate and some screws...
Except for the fact it will increase the weight of the X-axis gantry A LOT, which will require either a better quality snare/belt or a linear slider to stop some of the springy behavior the X-axis can have when printing certain types of details along the Y-axis plane (I have a lot of ringing and have tried setting up belt tension different a couple of times, but it has never helped getting rid of it, except printing slower (25-30mm/sec).
I am definitely interested in trying this mod out some day (mostly because I feel friction in the tube can be a problem), but I am fearful for some of the negative effects it could have (which is also, increasing the weight of the Z-axis making it harder for the Z-axis stepper to move it).
That was amazing and very ingenious with the fan mods. Great video
Just mount the filiment arm to the side and you dont need the extra guids. I have no issues with mine
Excellent video very useful information, I ordered my Ender 3 from eBay Australia I'm definitely printing and installing all these upgrades straight away.
awesome video my friend, after all your reviews, I have a ender 3 coming in a couple of weeks/months depending on the covid shipping process. Thanks for getting me started.
Great video! Had my Ender 3 for a while but have only upgraded it with the Petsfang and extruder filament guide. Going to do almost all the mods you have linked to now! :D
Awesome, thanks for watching.
The same question as I notice several of your other followers have recently asked: which pets fang suits Ender 3? There seem to be several to choose from, but the one linked to the video doesn't appear appropriate for reusing factory supplied hardware, and only seems to contain 1 part(the duct) no additional fan casing.
Please could you point me ( and obviously a few others ) in the right direction.
Otherwise I think your videos & presentation are great, keep them coming they're a great help.
brilliant upgrades for ender 3. Thanks
“If you’re reaching underneath to support and hold the nob”
...
Great video but can you use colours that are easier to see? Black on black made it difficult 😆
Tnx for the vid, but what I really would like to see is the preparation for each upgrade in de slicer software. That is what really teaches us how to properly setup the gcode. I love the ender 3 so far. But there is such an overwhelming amount on information on the interwebz and most of the time the youtubers skip the part of the preparation and go straight to the print it self of the review of the already printed part! Tnx !!
I can see your point but that would make a very long video. Perhaps a general video on print orientation and settings would be better?
That would be perfect
Teaching Tech it al starts with leveling the bed. But i cant seem to get the bed 100%. I know there are a lot of other videos but not one specific for the ender 3. Since this is going to be probably one of the most popular printers I would love to see a bed levering video just for the ender 3. I think it already starts with the wheels underneath the bed. But you probably know that beter than me! :-p
Great ! Thanks ! Your explananations are super clear !
Like upgrading your mill and lathe with parts made in each other, except you sit back and relax 😀
please upload your version of Petsfang duct. thanks
Top video mate...Very simple to follow
I cant wait fir the BLtouch..... I recently just bought one for ender 3 but i have no wiring experience cant wait for that awsome video
Should be in the next couple of weeks.
The low filament guide snap in does more harm than good. My experience is the same as many reviewers. While it stays on, which isn't for long, it causes under extrusions and damages prints.
Agreed, screwed a bunch of things up. Maybe if it was shortened to put less of an angle to the left on the filament it would be better
Great informative video.. Thank you.. Question, I am considering the Ender 3 but I see there is a pro version as well.. Should I spend the extra for the pro version or get the normal Ender 3?
can u direct me to the fan duct you are using as its not in the petsfang files thankyou keep up he great videos
Is that shroud "safe" to print in PLA? It looks awfully close to the hot end, and PLA can soften and start sagging just from being left in a hot car. You should probably take it apart and inspect it after a few prints, and especially check it if you print with a material requiring a hotter end, such as PETG.
Agreed I'm going to reprint in black abs with the duct face down on the flat.
no need. you will never get enough heat across that airgap to effect the part in pla.
NOW if you intend to use an enclosure. ok you would need something other than PLA possibly.
I'm really late, but shouldn't the airflow from the fans keep everything cool enough?
Very interesting 👌
I like the filament path tweaks, but wouldn't the best option be to remove the spool from the frame and set it beside the printer? Even with the upgrades, there are several points where the filament will rub against plastic.
I personally prefer to have a printer in one piece for when I move it. For anyone else your suggestion is ideal.
you must update video about blowing fan problem (sorry my english)
Thank You Mickael for all your good videos from a real Noobie. I cannot for the life of me find the duel fan surround that you used in the video that you blew through sounding like a train. I have printed the inside bit but with all the other outer surrounds I cant get the upper fan to fit in place as it has that protrusion on the top that would have prevented you from blowing through it. Any help would be great. Cheers
Warren Goyne The train sound was a joke. The link for everything is in the description.
@@allen6778 Thanks Allen I do realise that the train sound was a joke, but I was trying to say that Michael's version of the duel surround is not available in the links below. If you are referring to the Petstang files, each one has a protrusion sticking up for a different style of upper fan that would have prevented him from blowing through it. That's the one I want and can't find anywhere. Please help.
Thank you so much for this. I've got one of the in the mail on its way to me right now! Cant learn enough.
I must be missing something here. All the base downloads for this you need to add a nut inside. You mention that you must cut the threads in the base. Can you look again at the files and let be know which base does not need nuts installed? Also, I cannot find the file for the petsfang duct that uses the stock parts cooling fan that you printed in this video. All the petsfang cooling duct uses the round fans, and not the stock fans. Thanks
Nice video, I just got my Ender 3 and will be trying all these mods. Happy New Year!
Instead of using longer m3 bolts to hold the LCD and the cover why not use brass standoffs to hold the LCD and the stock me bolts for the cover?
well I looked thru all of the files and chart on Petsfang for the fan mount and duct, but none of them looked like the ones you are using. I'm I missing something? Did they change the file design? I have an Ender3 the same as in the video.
Excellent, getting mine on Sunday 😀 cheers
Good luck, it seems to a nice printer
good video and i realy like the upgrade parts after i build it and do the test print after adding more line so it makes a full test print i will be printing all the upgrade parts be for i do anything els the biggest thing i did not like about seeing this 3d printer was no back cover for the lcd screen i allmost did not buy it just due to that alone so i am so happy to find a cover all the parts are good big upgrades thanks a lot for listing them if u can list more parts i can print would be a big help
Hello! very interesting and informative, I love it! I have a question: I have a very old CR7 3D printer, but right now the motherboard has deteriorated, I bought a new ender 3 clearity v4.2.2
the question is that I did not take into account the power supply of the board, that is: 24 volt power is written on the new dress and 12 volt power supply on the old one. so I have to buy another 24 volt power supply or does this board have the function of working on both voltages> 24 volts and 12 volts ??? thanks for the reply in advance! Best regards, George!
Thank boss. I just did an unboxing video and assembly of the Ender 3. I recently started to do some actual large prints and they fail. The z isn’t parallel to the bed. It seems to be uneven on one end. Hopefully that z mod will fix it.
Mines coming tomorrow! So exited Ed! Also, do you have to calibrate on standard model?
Only minor things. I will be covering this soon.
Teaching Tech thanks, this is my first 3D printer, so I don’t really know how to calibrate, let alone build it 🤔🤔
Great vid. This printer could work great with the FormBox.
Funny first thing this morning my print barfed part way through c40% or 2 hr print, I connected up an iMAC and thought I'd try Cura & USB print not copy to SD card. Forgot the screen save/sleep settings in the iMAc will effect Cura...not sure that is ideal however the printer seems to have just frozen, with heaters still on etc. The nozzle had melted a nice hole in the PLA on another component on the bed ...but the "Filament guide snap in (up high)" had printed enough to be usable, the rest was junk. Lucky was in the room still :-)
Upgrading firmware to enable thermal runaway protection makes the process worthwhile for that alone. Glad it ended up ok.
Yes I think I might just have to and accept it voids the warranty.
Upvoted for train whistle. :)
Great video! How did you make/buy the tt display on your wall? Looks amazing!
This is the video you are looking for: th-cam.com/video/kLtnRwV2jRk/w-d-xo.html
Great vid man i'm trying to find the one with the drawer for the front / under carriage part.. I think it was one of your videos
Subbed! Thanks for the video. Snagged mine on Prime Day for $159 USD. Look forward to future videos.