Happy New Year Chris. I had to facepalm big time this morning when I noticed that I had missed this stream some months ago. The Ender 2 is now discontinued in most sites and I have only been able to find it at double the price on fruugo uk store. Really gutted as I now want to have an ender 2 along side my ender 3. I am now toying with the idea of using stock ender 3 parts to make a cantilever version of the ender 2.Thanks very much for this video, your recommend improvements have given me some ideas on what to consider if I pursue the custom build.
I put on the damper plates over a year ago. What a godsend. It took a while to stop going in to the room to see if it was actually operating because it was so quiet. Two things I find dreadful about the Ender 2 - the power supply fan noise, which you covered AND the placement of the slot for the micro SD card. I know it would cost more if it wasn't part of the main board during manufacture but it's horrid to fiddle with. It's too deep behind the case and too close to the base to keep a grip with a finger under it. I more or less take my best aim and then push in with the tip of one finger. I tried a ribbon cable extension and it pops out of the board's slot if I just stare at it hard. A cheap mod I made for longevity was adding an external MOSFET board to take the bed heater's current load away from the main board. The current now goes from power supply, to MOSFET board, to heater. The mainboard merely signals the MOSFET to On or Off.
Hi Chris very informative video. I noticed that you mentioned the Wham bam build plate. Would you recommend it for the cr10. I will use your link, thx.
Would you personally extend the bed as shown here: th-cam.com/video/Sntt5Ax7rU4/w-d-xo.html And also extend the z height with a taller 2040 T groove beam just to get that extra 100-200mm or so.
Cool, light hotend setup. I would recommend instead of that extruder to get either the dual gear one (11-12$) or a BMG clone that has some good reviews. I actually got great BMGs form banggood for 12$
Chris, if I replace my Ender 5's "None shall pass!" extruder with a Winsinn Ender 3 CR10 Dual Gear Extruder, will I have to fool with e-steps etc. or is it a direct bolt-on replacement? I just bit the bullet on the Filadryer as I figure $49 delivered is cheaper in the long run... Now, I'm going to look for something I saw in use... a sort of plastic snout that holds your mask well away from your nose and mouth, so all respiration doesn't involve the same square inch of cloth!
It's great that there are still people that love their Ender 2! Great video. Maybe I will share my mods in future.
Great Video Nerys.
Happy New Year Chris. I had to facepalm big time this morning when I noticed that I had missed this stream some months ago. The Ender 2 is now discontinued in most sites and I have only been able to find it at double the price on fruugo uk store. Really gutted as I now want to have an ender 2 along side my ender 3. I am now toying with the idea of using stock ender 3 parts to make a cantilever version of the ender 2.Thanks very much for this video, your recommend improvements have given me some ideas on what to consider if I pursue the custom build.
I put on the damper plates over a year ago. What a godsend. It took a while to stop going in to the room to see if it was actually operating because it was so quiet. Two things I find dreadful about the Ender 2 - the power supply fan noise, which you covered AND the placement of the slot for the micro SD card. I know it would cost more if it wasn't part of the main board during manufacture but it's horrid to fiddle with. It's too deep behind the case and too close to the base to keep a grip with a finger under it. I more or less take my best aim and then push in with the tip of one finger. I tried a ribbon cable extension and it pops out of the board's slot if I just stare at it hard.
A cheap mod I made for longevity was adding an external MOSFET board to take the bed heater's current load away from the main board. The current now goes from power supply, to MOSFET board, to heater. The mainboard merely signals the MOSFET to On or Off.
Mosfetis a great idea! I think i will do that.
Great, clear and straight to the point video Nerys!
Looks a lot like the kingroon kp3
Hi Chris very informative video. I noticed that you mentioned the Wham bam build plate. Would you recommend it for the cr10. I will use your link, thx.
Yes. I love my wham bam.
Nice useful video as always.
Any plans to test resin printers?
Yes. I have done elegoo, flsun, creality, longer 3d, and creality resin printers.
Would you personally extend the bed as shown here: th-cam.com/video/Sntt5Ax7rU4/w-d-xo.html
And also extend the z height with a taller 2040 T groove beam just to get that extra 100-200mm or so.
@Xekromancer, just what the doctor ordered. Thanks for the pointer to Frog Cube's video.
Do you have a link to the PSU you use here?
Cool, light hotend setup. I would recommend instead of that extruder to get either the dual gear one (11-12$) or a BMG clone that has some good reviews. I actually got great BMGs form banggood for 12$
This printer says $200 still?
Only banggood has it so yeah limited availability sadly.
Chris, if I replace my Ender 5's "None shall pass!" extruder with a Winsinn Ender 3 CR10 Dual Gear Extruder, will I have to fool with e-steps etc. or is it a direct bolt-on replacement?
I just bit the bullet on the Filadryer as I figure $49 delivered is cheaper in the long run...
Now, I'm going to look for something I saw in use... a sort of plastic snout that holds your mask well away from your nose and mouth, so all respiration doesn't involve the same square inch of cloth!
Yes be aware they eat themselves over time (need washer under bearing) and yes direct fit should not have to change calibration.
Cheers for video.