Ender2 Upgrades - Auto Bed Leveling - Chris's Basement
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 15 มิ.ย. 2024
- In this one we upgrade the Ender 2. I don't do a lot of upgrades on machines, but this one needed some. We even add ABL!
00:00 Intro
01:04 Marlin Upgrade
03:47 Fan Upgrade
04:42 Bed Upgrade
06:44 Boden Tube and Coupler Upgrade
08:53 Power Supply Upgrade
10:27 ABL Sensor Install
21:49 Conclusion
Fan, aliexpress affiliate:
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Sensor:
geni.us/DC4W
BuildTax sheet:
geni.us/S6WoUEF
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Bed knobs:
www.thingiverse.com/thing:301...
Sensor mount:
www.thingiverse.com/thing:301...
Strain relief:
www.thingiverse.com/thing:284...
Fan shroud:
www.thingiverse.com/thing:236...
Marlin Ender 2 version I used:
drive.google.com/open?id=1HOd...
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I like how simple your videos are. It's great when a content creator can just level with you.
Ha ha! Thanks James, that's me, on the level.
@@ChrisRiley Further to that, I very much appreciate that you actually bring us what we came to see within 10 seconds, rather than making us sit through a minute of preamble/filler. Good work on that :)
@@ArkanoidMcZombietron Thanks! I like the videos that just get to the point.
Thanks Chris, I really like your style and the explanations are excellent. Keep up the great work.
Thanks Peter, that's great feedback. Thanks for watching!
I was just headbanging what to do with the old Ender-2, collecting dust at the shelve for a long time until I bumped to this video .... great job, mate! Thanks a lot! Now the upgraded "beast" is printing even better than the other I have, "vanilla" E3Pro
Awesome! Glad it was helpful!
I really like how you walk us through the steps.
That's great feedback, thank you, I try to keep things as straightforward as possible.
Lots of good information for use on may types of printers. Thank you Chris for sharing.
Thank you and thanks for watching as always!
Absolute cool Chris the way you explain all
Thanks Don! Thanks for the support as always!
Great job Chris, super thorough!
Thanks Ali!
So many cool upgrades, really great work as usual. This was a really nice video, keep it up
Thanks Mikey! Thanks for the support as usual.
Hey :) Nice. You hit the ball right outta the park with these mods. I can't imagine how much time and effort you put into this baby. ;)
Thanks! Yeah this one took a little while. It would have been quicker if I didn't have to make some of the parts. I was fun anyway, and now it prints much better. Thanks for watching!
Awesome video, you already have me dreaming of upgrading my Wanhao Di3 v2 w/ Melzi
Thanks, and thanks for watching! I am working on a Dup 3 right now, this very moment. I should have some videos on it out soon.
Love it bro. Great job and great video :)
Thanks Dan!
Nice video man, considering getting an Ender 2 for my second printer, this video was useful to know whats possible thanks
Glad I could help, thanks for watching.
Nice video. Auto bed leveling is still on my to do list.
Thanks James, it's not the easiest to setup, but work pretty.
Chris
good as always and use full tips
richard
Thanks Richard!
you can use M211 S0 to disable software endstops, and M211 S1 to re-enable. That way you dont have to disable it in the firmware like you did. Great video!
Thanks! Yes, the M211 is something I have started using recently, very handy.
Good stuff. This should help me get the auto bed leveling setup on the AM8.
Awesome! Thanks for watching Glenn!
Thanks Chris , great video, thanks
Thanks Vaughan, as always, Thanks for watching!
Thanks Chris, great information as usual. I always watch your stuff as was a complete toddler to 3D printing, now walking confidently thanks again. Oh BTW you mentioned you have the bedknobs, where do the broomsticks go? (Sorry I'll leave)
Ha ha ha! Not sure how many of us get that reference, but it was amusing. Thanks for the comment and watching!
Gracias Chris, seguiré tus consejos. Ya te contaré como me salió. Saludos.
De nada, hágame saber cómo va.
Thank you sooooooo much
Thanks for watching
Simplest way to couple a 12V sensor to a low-voltage control board is with a diode, much fewer components than a divider, and in the unlikely case that a joint fails or the voltages run away, it's safer. The board or the processor/firmware provides a gentle pullup to the maximum logic voltage, and the sensor conditionally pulls the board down to ground; you just need to prevent processor's logic being pulled up by the sensor, which would pull it beyond maximum logic voltage and close to sensor's supply voltage, so the diode goes with the stripe towards the sensor.
Diode is also compatible with open-collector sensor outputs while divider can be unreliable in this case.
There's also technically no reason not to hit very close to 100% on utilisation, because it really is just the ROM, it cannot be used for anything else, it can get a bit fiddly when you're close, but feel free to re-enable as many comfort features as you can fit in.
Thanks for the comment and the info. Do you have a model number for a diode you would suggest?
Chris I just followed your guide for my Wanhao i3 v2.1 but used a diode instead of the voltage divider. Most diodes should work well for this, but I specifically used a 1N4004. Make sure the diode is in the orientation such that it is "blocking" the 12V.
@@ChrisRiley forgot to reply! Just about any standard silicon diode should do. 1n4148 should be perfect but any 1n400x series should do fine as well.
Thanks John! I see a lot of others doing it this way, seems a lot easier.
Thanks for the reply! This seems to be a much easier way to get this done.
Another Great Video! But it prints the weirdest looking Benchy... Disabling Sheldon used features in Marlin for one that will be used for every print is a good solution...
Thanks Mike, you are right! I will have to go look for that.
Loved this video, contemplating getting an ender 2 to set up for max quality with a 0.2 nozzle.
Curious as to how the bed cable strain relief hen up with the heated bed at say 70?
The PETG seems to hold up to it fairly well, no issues.
Chirs, i have an idea for your next video, "install octoprint on a windows host" say you have an old Chromebook / laptop laying around and you want to make an octoprint server out of it. the instructions are fairly simple and fun, + you should be able to create multiple instances of octoprint and run powerhouse octoprint server farm? thoughts?
discourse.octoprint.org/t/setting-up-octoprint-on-windows/383
Ha! That's not a bad idea at all. I use an old windows laptop over by the print farm already, that might work well. Thanks for the link. I will see what I can come up with.
Good info on freeing up memory but don't you need to install a bootloader on the board?
Yes you do, but it is really close to how you do it on a CR10. Here is that video, th-cam.com/video/7J7NYnxL5vA/w-d-xo.htmlm50s Thanks for watching!
I was looking for the bowden end clamps you used, you stated that they were a better quality than stock. I have a Tevo Tornado so I only need the 10mm ones. I got 2 FLSUN ones with something else I ordered and they were much better than the ones that had DONT on the black plastic push lock ring. What kind are you using and where do you get them? Several vendors on Amazon show FLSUN in their pictures but deliver the DONT ones when you order.
Thanks for the helpful videos, I always learn something!
Hey Vance, thanks man. I have been using these and they seem to be working well.
www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0734J5PDV?psc=1&ref=yo_pop_mb_pd_title
OK, thanks. Those are the ones I am presently using.
You might these out over at captubs. www.captubes.com/shop/#!/Accessories/c/25823850/offset=0&sort=normal
Hola Chris , soy yo de nuevo. estuve volviendo a ver tu video. Creo que mi problema es de configuracion del Marlin. Configuarre todo y tranquilamente.Te volveré a comentar mi progreso. Gracias por tu paciencia. Saludos
Hola, buena suerte, dime cómo te va.
With the marlin you've got linked below, is that your edited one? or just the base marlin? EDIT: nevermind, I see you've edited it, for some reason this copy doesn't have the bootscreen disabled though.
Hmmm, maybe I put it back in.
Well done Chris. I have a video searies idea for you.. Everything Slic3r Prusa Edition. Now that I have an MK3 and waiting on my MMU2, I suspect I will move from S3D to Slic3r PE.
Oh buddy, MMU2 is going to bring the noise. I don't even know the best way to start to document/ troubleshoot the MMU2 process. For sure, there will be a ton of stuff that has to be setup in Slic3r, I am sure more than 1 video will be needed.
I'm talking ground up series on the ins-and-outs of Slic3r Prusa Edition. Take someone like me from knowing nothing to semi-expert..
I could do that, there have been some recent changes in it that could use a walk through as well.
Hola de Nuevo Chris, ¿cual modelo de "Auto Bed Leveling" debo comprar? Me dices cual. Saludos
me gustan estos www.aliexpress.com/item/32981810289.html?spm=a2g0o.productlist.0.0.3c3d441acoCnts&algo_pvid=61d3e430-f649-4ae9-9664-f44dcbc593bc&algo_expid=61d3e430-f649-4ae9-9664-f44dcbc593bc-1&btsid=0ab6f8ad15907637068212256e0dfd&ws_ab_test=searchweb0_0,searchweb201602_,searchweb201603_
Hello Chris!
Chris I have a request for you regarding your conversion at Ender 2! Is this also possible with the MKS GEN L v1.0 with a TFT 28 from MKS? What would it cost if you programmed the Marlin software for the MKS GEN L v1.0 with the TFT 28 from MKS as well as the ABL sensor ?! It would be nice if I heard from you !!!!
First of all, thank you in advance !!
Regards: Werner
The config should be easy, but you will have to come up with a case that fits it. You can use the ender 2 example here , just change the board name github.com/MarlinFirmware/Marlin/tree/2.0.x/config
@@ChrisRiley Hello Chris,
Thank you for your answer, that helps me further!
Very great video about your Prusa Mini! It's a great 3D printer !! But the Prusa Mini has a delivery time of 6 months! Otherwise I would buy the printer immediately, if only from your video!
Greetings Werner
hello, con you replace the 16.5 bed to a 22 or 20 bed? i mean in centimeters by the way
I don't think so, you would have to rework somethings.
We are due for a Trinamic 2130 update you said you would look at it in marlin 1.1.9 you also said you would look into using them with a LCD.
You are correct, I plan on trying that again very soon.
Looking forward to seeing what you come up with the solutions. i have seen is just to remap the pins to 63 and 59 in the Aux-2 plug.
I have to take a look, I am not sure what options I have on RAMPS, but we will make something work. :)
thanks man! I am getting a new board for my ender (it was still under warranty from the factory!) and I was hoping to add marlin. any issue with belt tightening?
You're welcome! On the creality stuff I usually don't have a hard time tightening the belts. The idler bearings are usually be enough I can get a screwdriver in there to pry against it while I re-tighten the t nut bolts. Thanks for watching!
@@ChrisRiley You could print a few different thickness parts purely for jamming in between the idler bearings to set your belt tension. But like you I just went old school and screwdrivered it!
@@ArkanoidMcZombietron lol, yeah that would probably be the smart thing to do, but you know how that goes. :)
@@ChrisRiley Yup, one thing I've learnt time and time again, is it's much easier to be smart about something, when you've already been dumb about it ;)
@@ArkanoidMcZombietron LOL, how true.
hola Chis ya estoy por meter el nuevo marlin. pero el cableado con las resistencias del autonivelador tal como sale pacere que hara cortocircuito. me ayudas por favor . estoy tan cerca que solo me falta comprender esta parte final. Gracias
¿Cuál es la parte final con la que necesita ayuda?
Ya encontré un esquema de las resistencias. Ahora comprendo. Gracias
Chris en 11:48 una resistencia queda con una pata suelta. Me explicas por favor
Veja se isso ajuda th-cam.com/video/EcGFLwj0pnA/w-d-xo.html
Can Marlin be installed on aphawise U30/longer LK2?
You probably could, but it won't support the touch screen at this point, so probably best not to at the moment.
Hola Chris , soy yo de nuevo. tube que esperar que me llegara en nivelador. Pero lo conecto todo como tu explicas pero la luz queda encendida y cuando mando a la Ender 2 a nivelar sube el ejez Z para arriba. Me podrias ayudar por favor. Gracias
¿Cómo se ve la salida m119? ¿Se dispara el sensor?
When I do the last verify I get a error message saying- U8glib.h: no such file or directory.
Check this out. docs.google.com/document/d/1-9qrvoH3oKmzG-ViZOhR2FxJUBQVTUmlIaJ9zQ-Ppqc/edit?usp=sharing
Will that heatbed strain relief work without the auto bed levelling? Does it clear the rear stepper motor at the default Z endstop level?
yes, I should still fit.
@@ChrisRiley Bugger. Mine doesn't clear the stepper motor.
@@joebywan Doh! Sorry about that.
The autobed leveling settings doesn't match in case you use TH3D FW. Would be great if you can make a video too. Thank you.
Thanks for watching! I don't use TH3D, I might consider doing a video on it in the future, but I prefer to stick with mainstream Marlin when I can.
@@ChrisRiley I think it may be interesting for many people as nobody did it yet. Anyway thanks for your effort that you already made. Good job.
can you super glue the fan instead
Yeah, glue should work.
Howdy, i know the video is a few months old but i ran into a problem. i was chaning my ender 2 hotend to all metal (gulfcoast brand) its been an ordeal. anyway, i plugged everything in, im about 100% sure its all plugged in correctly unless im totally missing something. Board fan comes on, display illuminates but nothing is on the screen and octo print cant connect. Any thoughts on what I should do?everything was working when i powered it off and started changing the hot end.
Hmmm, kinda sounds like somethings shorted out. Hotend heater maybe? I would start unplugging things util it boots again.
dang, i went through and one by unplugged everything but power (obviously) and same result. I even unplugged the display and tried octoprint just to see. It was a no go, i dont see an debris on the board, going to try and blow some compressed air around and see if anything is touching.
@@brennonr That sucks man, hope you can find it.
Chris Riley well crap. It’s a no go. Man this sucks. Any recommendations for a board replacement?
@@brennonr Well I am not really sure what would fit in there, I would look at MKS and see if they have one about the same size.
How you been doing Chris
Doing well Paul.
Sorry for the spam dude. I slapped your copy of Marlin on, ran through the same steps you did, but now I can G28/29 fine. If I do any move commands after that it goes to 0,0,0 and won't go anywhere else. Don't suppose you've got any ideas why? After poking around in it further, the max software endstops were enabled, forcing the printer to think that it was 0,0,0 size. So it went to 0,0,0 and didn't move from there. Not sure if it's a bug or not. Any chance you could run M211 on your Ender 2 and post the output for me please? Mine's saying for the max sizes x0, y0, z0. But the size is defined in configuration.h.
No worries, unfortunately I no longer have an ender 2. If it's max size causing the issue it should be something like this.
// The size of the print bed
#define X_BED_SIZE 150
#define Y_BED_SIZE 150
// Travel limits (mm) after homing, corresponding to endstop positions.
#define X_MIN_POS 0
#define Y_MIN_POS 0
#define Z_MIN_POS 0
#define X_MAX_POS X_BED_SIZE
#define Y_MAX_POS Y_BED_SIZE
#define Z_MAX_POS 200
/**
* Software Endstops
*
* - Prevent moves outside the set machine bounds.
* - Individual axes can be disabled, if desired.
* - X and Y only apply to Cartesian robots.
* - Use 'M211' to set software endstops on/off or report current state
*/
// Min software endstops constrain movement within minimum coordinate bounds
#define MIN_SOFTWARE_ENDSTOPS
#if ENABLED(MIN_SOFTWARE_ENDSTOPS)
#define MIN_SOFTWARE_ENDSTOP_X
#define MIN_SOFTWARE_ENDSTOP_Y
#define MIN_SOFTWARE_ENDSTOP_Z
#endif
// Max software endstops constrain movement within maximum coordinate bounds
#define MAX_SOFTWARE_ENDSTOPS
#if ENABLED(MAX_SOFTWARE_ENDSTOPS)
#define MAX_SOFTWARE_ENDSTOP_X
#define MAX_SOFTWARE_ENDSTOP_Y
#define MAX_SOFTWARE_ENDSTOP_Z
#endif
#if ENABLED(MIN_SOFTWARE_ENDSTOPS) || ENABLED(MAX_SOFTWARE_ENDSTOPS)
//#define SOFT_ENDSTOPS_MENU_ITEM // Enable/Disable software endstops from the LCD
#endif
@@ChrisRiley Yea that's how it was in your file & what I was uploading, but with M211 it was showing 0,0,0 for max size. I've since rebuilt a new copy of Marlin, was just hoping to see if you were getting the same output
@@joebywan huh, not sure what would have messed that up.
Hola Chris estuve corriguiendo errores . por ejemplo tenia comentadas 4 lineas estas
#define LEFT_PROBE_BED_POSITION 30
#define RIGHT_PROBE_BED_POSITION 170
#define FRONT_PROBE_BED_POSITION 20
#define BACK_PROBE_BED_POSITION 170
Las descomenté y puse 30 170 20 170 como ves. pero compilo el marlin y me sale el error siguiente
exit status 1
static assertion failed: RIGHT_PROBE_BED_POSITION is outside the probe region.
¿Ahora como sigo adelante? Gracias
You will need to measure the right and back probe edge from the edge of the bed. They will be small numbers, like 20-30.
@@ChrisRiley Gracias Chris , El Arduino me dejo seguir con estas medidas
#define LEFT_PROBE_BED_POSITION 30
#define RIGHT_PROBE_BED_POSITION 110
#define FRONT_PROBE_BED_POSITION 30
#define BACK_PROBE_BED_POSITION 150
Compilé y lo cargue a la placa del Ender.
Cuando le pindo un autonivelado...
el eje X lo hace pero el eje Z va para arriba y la luz de la sonda encendida.
Veré de nuevo tu video y iré comparando.
Ah, no te dije que reformé las medidas de la cama que es 150*400 mm.
te diré si lo soluciono o te pido ayuda de nuevo.
Quiero darte muchas Gracias por la ayuda. Saludos
Hello,can you add subtitles to this video? thank you😉
Not sure how, but I will take a look on how I would do that.
Hi Chris. Many thanks for Your videos :-) I've followed Your instructions for ABL on Ender 2. But I get an error, when compiling. It saysArduino: 1.8.14 Hourly Build 2020/06/24 01:33 (Windows 10), Board: "Sanguino, ATmega1284 or ATmega1284P (16 MHz)"
In file included from sketch\MarlinConfig.h:30:0,
from C:\Users\Keld\Documents\Arduino\Marlin-1.1.x\Marlin\Marlin.ino:31:
Configuration.h:1784:2: error: #endif without #if
#endif // CONFIGURATION_H
^~~~~
In file included from sketch\MarlinConfig.h:40:0,
from C:\Users\Keld\Documents\Arduino\Marlin-1.1.x\Marlin\Marlin.ino:31:
SanityCheck.h:738:6: error: #error "Auto Bed Leveling requires one of these: PROBE_MANUALLY, FIX_MOUNTED_PROBE, BLTOUCH, SOLENOID_PROBE, Z_PROBE_ALLEN_KEY, Z_PROBE_SLED, or a Z Servo."
#error "Auto Bed Leveling requires one of these: PROBE_MANUALLY, FIX_MOUNTED_PROBE, BLTOUCH, SOLENOID_PROBE, Z_PROBE_ALLEN_KEY, Z_PROBE_SLED, or a Z Servo."
^~~~~
exit status 1
#endif without #if
Could You please help me Chris?
Best regards Keld
Hello, looks like a broken statement. Take the comment off of FIX_MOUNTED_PROBE
@@ChrisRiley Thanks a lot Chris :-) It did'nt help, so I started a new session. After following your instructions, I get the following error. Hope You can help me. Arduino: 1.8.14 Hourly Build 2020/06/24 01:33 (Windows 10), Board: "Sanguino, ATmega1284 or ATmega1284P (16 MHz)"
In file included from sketch\MarlinConfig.h:40:0,
from C:\Users\Keld\Desktop\Marlin ender2\Marlin-1.1.x\Marlin\Marlin.ino:31:
SanityCheck.h:705:8: error: #error "Z_MIN_PROBE_USES_Z_MIN_ENDSTOP_PIN requires Z_MIN_ENDSTOP_INVERTING to match Z_MIN_PROBE_ENDSTOP_INVERTING."
#error "Z_MIN_PROBE_USES_Z_MIN_ENDSTOP_PIN requires Z_MIN_ENDSTOP_INVERTING to match Z_MIN_PROBE_ENDSTOP_INVERTING."
^~~~~
exit status 1
#error "Z_MIN_PROBE_USES_Z_MIN_ENDSTOP_PIN requires Z_MIN_ENDSTOP_INVERTING to match Z_MIN_PROBE_ENDSTOP_INVERTING."
This report would have more information with
"Show verbose output during compilation"
option enabled in File -> Preferences.
Hope You can see, what I'm doing wrong. Could I send the Marlin fil to You? Best regards Keld
@@keldsrensen1632 You can send me files. brotherchris81@gmail.com to fix this issue these two need to be the same.
#define Z_MIN_ENDSTOP_INVERTING true // Set to true to invert the logic of the endstop.
#define Z_MIN_PROBE_ENDSTOP_INVERTING true // Set to true to invert the logic of the probe.
i just bought this printer ive never used a printer b4,i think im selling it and giving 3d printing a miss,its way above my pay grade,i stupidly thought you went on the net download something plug it into your printer, ive got a headache
Yeah, you are not the only one trust me. There is a learning curve for sure.
Don't give up, just try to learn a small amount at a time. It's a decent printer, but at least for me is taking some time and work to get up to a reliable standard. Don't worry about upgrades until you know why you need them :)
@@ChrisRiley ok its 2 weeks later and ive got an overload headache,BUT as you slowly conquer the next hurdle,i do enjoy the high, especially when i finally got some gcode on the card and actually printed something successfully, i think its the PC stuff more than the printer that is killing me,ive never done anything on a PC except emails and watch youtube, now im supposed to download this and that open this, but theres no shortage of tutelage so im going to stumble on cheers
@@pollyg562 Nice! Glad to hear you are pushing on.
Hey thanks for the instructions, I have got this setup. I am having issues with my sensor, it triggers almost once it hits the bed. Is there any way to increase sensitivity? I have this sensor www.amazon.com/gp/product/B073XCWWBD/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o04_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
I have tried increasing the voltage all the way up to 12v but sensitivity does not change.
thanks
You're welcome! You can get these that have a longer sensing distance. This one seems to be a 2mm, you can get them up to 8mm I think.
zzZbzbbzzz mosquito? any mosquito in the house?(extruder)
good work :D
for the memory :P, i did it to a a6 but you have to quit others features
Mosquito will be coming up shortly. ;)