they dont make em like this anymore, these tools were made to last while todays tools are made to break for monetary gain because capitalism will ruin everythinf
I like how these old tools were built to be rebuilt if you know what you're doing. I probably would've replaced the fins if I could've found them. Good video!
A light cleanup with fine grit emery paper would have helped restore them. Just a light rub to make them smooth on the surface to help nice sliding in the groove.
Sue's hubby here! I have watched your video's, the slot machine, this one, the 'janky go-cart' and many other's. Safe to say that, in my six years of watching loads of restoration sites and other videos, i cannot remember sooo many springs and split pins being used, as used in the slot machine vid! Well done to you for ALL the video's you have done, please keep up the very good work that you do, it is a real pleasure watching you restore things that look like, SOME times beyond redemption! Mikky, UK.
Nice work! I have an electric Ingersol Rand impact driver from the 50s that was my father’s. Still works, but needs some TLC and a new cord. You’ve inspired me to get on it!
Hello. I did an Impactool similar to yours. I got it for my personal use. The top part of the tool where it has a spring in it, was very hard to remove. I almost gave up on removing it, until I watched your video. Without your video I couldn’t have done it. Thank you for that. I would like my channel to be like yours and educational so others can learn, just like me. I shared your link in my video so others can check out your video, I hope you don’t mind. Thank you for sharing and what a great job. Cheers.
When I used to work on I/R's and CP's in the mid-90s. I would horn out the air cylinder with an engine cylinder horner to give it a good cross-hatch on it. Made it work as good as new if not better for the vanes to hold air better. Never seen a 504 before. I can't find it in I/R's archives it's so old. The closest I could find was a 5040. A piece of advice you should never spin a dry bearing. The largest one I ever rebuilt was something like a Model 3955 1 1/2" or 2 1/2" I don't remember which used to open and close train fright car doors. So big and heavy you had to move it on its own hand truck.
I have an old IR aircraft impact riveter. It's missing the tailpiece (the connection to the airhose in the bottom of the handle and I think there's also an adjustment knob). I can't find a picture of what that part even looks like so i can search for one. Any suggestions?
I used th-cam.com/users/postUgkx4ynqaujg7rZKFapA8s29kTpRszJGa3-K this for the first time today to replace the front wheel bearing on my rwd 98 dodge dakota. This had absolutely no issue removing or reinstalling the lug nuts and it took off the axle nut without any struggle. Sounds like it's got some muscle to it. Time will tell
Finally, a restoration video that does just that, restore a tool to its original working condition. I got bored watching other channel videos that go to no end in buffing and polishing all parts to a mirror finish, worthy of being displayed in a museum and not a working tool.
Nice video, it was nice to see someone working with bare hands for a change and not wearing gloves. Which in my opinion doesn’t let the user feel all the imperfections on a material, so to work more in tune to the job at hand.👍
You did a very good job; in fact much better than I could have done-but I would call this "refurbishing" a tool vs a "restoration" namely due to the fact that refurbishing is more of a repair of something not working, whereas a restoration brings something back to as close to new as possible, both in function and how it looks. Again, good job.
@@RyanAlexanderBloom typically the oil is for the air motor and a lite moly grease is used in the mechanism. I’ve rebuilt my share for 15 years. When I saw oil being put in the mechanism. It made me cringe, those balls and cam paths are going to wear out fast.
The most captivating and interesting part of this restoration? Seeing the "Made in the USA" stamped on it. Considering almost everything we utilize is made in China or a foreign country, that was a nice surprise.
Very nice refurbishing project. Can't say you didn't lubricate it, that's for sure. Do you know how much torque it is capable of? Thumbs Up for saving what could have been a trashed tool.
Man I wish they still made tools that looks like this. It’s extremely difficult to find solid metal air tools. You can find some, but most have black or black and orange all over them.
I’m really enjoying your content, keep it up! Try out using a double sided rubber mallet instead of the sledge. You’ll have better control, and less risk of damage to your tools and hands! Lol, it’s great for these sorts of things, you can put more force behind it as well since you don’t have to worry about jacking things up if you over strike or anything like that. Hopefully it helps man, and best of luck on future renos!
I'm pretty sure the gear train hammer and anvil should all be greased every impact I've taken apart was. It should be a good high temperature grease also
The Reason why the older drills of any kind had holes in the part that held the sockets is bcause they had ball-bearings on each side so the socket will stay on
This may seem like basic questions to some, but... When lubricating things, how do you know whether you should use oil or grease? And if oil, how do you know what grade of oil to use?
In a free spinning machine with light angular loading, you want oil. Grease causes drag until it heats up. Wheel bearing on cars use grease because they have high load and product enough heat to liquefy the grease.
If you are using oil, how would you know what grade to use? Answer is: If you are going to add/put new oil in to an Engine you must refer to owners manual. Broadly speaking; if it's a simpler/older/vintage engine like a lawnmower or a small motorbike without a complicated oil pumping and filtering system, you would use a single grade Oil like SAE 30 or 40. In this case as the number goes up thicker the oil gets, so you would use thicker oil(sae 40) in hot weather and in older/worn down engines, you would use lighter (sae30) in winter because it's thinner and more viscous. Multi grade oils would have two different number like 20W-50 or 0W-40 In this case the number next to W states the viscosity and lubricating capacity when the engine is cold and the other number states when the oil gets hot. When it comes to general lubrication around the household items; you would use a light, non detergant oil. If not a mineral two stroke oil or Normal mineral oil would work as well. There are certain things to keep in mind, Never use WD-40 or similar type of maintenance sprays/penetrating fluids on bearings or any other sealed units because the solvent used in these liquids/sprays will sip in and wash away or ruin the grease or lubricant. On plastic/rubber items use silicon or silicone based lubricant. For items subjected to wet weather conditions like bicycle chain etc.. then choose a lubricant contains Teflon or with ptfe. Addition to previous comment: usually grease is used in sealed parts because if dust/dirt comes in contact, it will stick to grease and if not cleaned straight away. it will ruin the bearings/gears etc..
@@nitro74cs you are right on most. One thing about motorcycle oil, if it a wet clutch make sure it doesn’t have an friction reducers add. It will say “Energy Conserving” or something like that in API label. And WD40 isn’t a lubricant. It’s a penetrating oil or water displacer. So you are spot on with not using it on bearings. Wish I would have known that when I was I kid. My skateboard bearings would have lasted much longer 😂
Even though I admit that cold bluing is convenient, I can't help but hate it. It's like water color that kids use but it pretends it's a metal surface treatment.
What a beautiful tool. No plastic, no pot metal, just solid. Love it.
There is plastic
they dont make em like this anymore, these tools were made to last while todays tools are made to break for monetary gain because capitalism will ruin everythinf
Now send it to us and we'll see how much beans it makes!
YOU NEED TO DO THIS
This HAS to happen!
I gave u a view just to look for this please send it to them!
Pppppppp
Lp
I like how these old tools were built to be rebuilt if you know what you're doing. I probably would've replaced the fins if I could've found them. Good video!
*veins
@@bradleymichaelw9416 Vanes
A light cleanup with fine grit emery paper would have helped restore them. Just a light rub to make them smooth on the surface to help nice sliding in the groove.
Sue's hubby here! I have watched your video's, the slot machine, this one, the 'janky go-cart' and many other's.
Safe to say that, in my six years of watching loads of restoration sites and other videos, i cannot remember sooo many springs and split pins being used, as used in the slot machine vid!
Well done to you for ALL the video's you have done, please keep up the very good work that you do, it is a real pleasure watching you restore things that look like, SOME times beyond redemption!
Mikky, UK.
NEATO!! I always wondered how an impact wrench worked. Now I know how complicated it was to tear down, clean and restore!! Thanks!!
Jolly good job. I just love to restore good old, handy tools, equipment etc.
Ça m’épate toujours de voir le démontage !!! Autant de petites pièces… à remonter sans se tromper !!! 👍🏻
Nice work! I have an electric Ingersol Rand impact driver from the 50s that was my father’s. Still works, but needs some TLC and a new cord. You’ve inspired me to get on it!
Hello. I did an Impactool similar to yours. I got it for my personal use. The top part of the tool where it has a spring in it, was very hard to remove. I almost gave up on removing it, until I watched your video. Without your video I couldn’t have done it. Thank you for that. I would like my channel to be like yours and educational so others can learn, just like me. I shared your link in my video so others can check out your video, I hope you don’t mind. Thank you for sharing and what a great job. Cheers.
When I used to work on I/R's and CP's in the mid-90s. I would horn out the air cylinder with an engine cylinder horner to give it a good cross-hatch on it. Made it work as good as new if not better for the vanes to hold air better. Never seen a 504 before. I can't find it in I/R's archives it's so old. The closest I could find was a 5040. A piece of advice you should never spin a dry bearing. The largest one I ever rebuilt was something like a Model 3955 1 1/2" or 2 1/2" I don't remember which used to open and close train fright car doors. So big and heavy you had to move it on its own hand truck.
I have an old IR aircraft impact riveter. It's missing the tailpiece (the connection to the airhose in the bottom of the handle and I think there's also an adjustment knob). I can't find a picture of what that part even looks like so i can search for one. Any suggestions?
@@ericcumming8518 No
I used th-cam.com/users/postUgkx4ynqaujg7rZKFapA8s29kTpRszJGa3-K this for the first time today to replace the front wheel bearing on my rwd 98 dodge dakota. This had absolutely no issue removing or reinstalling the lug nuts and it took off the axle nut without any struggle. Sounds like it's got some muscle to it. Time will tell
I have been using this product of this company in my workshop for last 15 years and its performance is very good. "Ingersoll Rand" name is very good.
Have fun getting those wheels off now. That’s a great old piece of equipment.
New impacts would shit all over this one.
I really enjoy all the proof marks, reminds me of taking apart an old rifle
Impact wrench is super and the restoration is superb American made is excellent.
Finally, a restoration video that does just that, restore a tool to its original working condition. I got bored watching other channel videos that go to no end in buffing and polishing all parts to a mirror finish, worthy of being displayed in a museum and not a working tool.
Nice video, it was nice to see someone working with bare hands for a change and not wearing gloves. Which in my opinion doesn’t let the user feel all the imperfections on a material, so to work more in tune to the job at hand.👍
That was a LOT more parts n pieces n ball bearings than I ever would've imagined!
Nice return to service with that tool, great job and I hope it serves you well
The wire through the hole at the end blew my mind, never knew that!
back like new again the shock lock tool, great 👍
You did a very good job; in fact much better than I could have done-but I would call this "refurbishing" a tool vs a "restoration" namely due to the fact that refurbishing is more of a repair of something not working, whereas a restoration brings something back to as close to new as possible, both in function and how it looks. Again, good job.
finally. At the age of 25 I know what is inside this tool. 🤣👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍
Ingersoll Rand London, Connecticut. The vanes are replaceable and still avaliable. Good job!
When all that air tool oil blows out after being used a bit the internals are going to grind themselves apart. That’s why they grease certain areas
I was thinking this the whole time. That one thin oil cannot be the right lubricant for every part.
@@RyanAlexanderBloom typically the oil is for the air motor and a lite moly grease is used in the mechanism. I’ve rebuilt my share for 15 years. When I saw oil being put in the mechanism. It made me cringe, those balls and cam paths are going to wear out fast.
@@RC-fu6hg the balls were literally covered in red grease.
The little sounds things make when you wiggle them or pull them apart help you tell when something is made with extra skookum..
Very good. Lubrication of every parts is good.
The most captivating and interesting part of this restoration? Seeing the "Made in the USA" stamped on it. Considering almost everything we utilize is made in China or a foreign country, that was a nice surprise.
Well the tool is like 100 million years old
Incredible restoration, works great.
Very nice refurbishing project. Can't say you didn't lubricate it, that's for sure. Do you know how much torque it is capable of? Thumbs Up for saving what could have been a trashed tool.
Man I wish they still made tools that looks like this. It’s extremely difficult to find solid metal air tools. You can find some, but most have black or black and orange all over them.
Nice restoration
Wow, I tried that once but ended up with more parts than I started with
And my wife got really mad when I used her toothbrush (I didn't tell her)
I’m really enjoying your content, keep it up! Try out using a double sided rubber mallet instead of the sledge. You’ll have better control, and less risk of damage to your tools and hands! Lol, it’s great for these sorts of things, you can put more force behind it as well since you don’t have to worry about jacking things up if you over strike or anything like that. Hopefully it helps man, and best of luck on future renos!
Imagine how complex engineer was he who built this tool.👍👍
I have like 7 or 8 of these guns. Complete.
Not "overkill"...just common sense preventive maintenance....great job!
I'm pretty sure the gear train hammer and anvil should all be greased every impact I've taken apart was. It should be a good high temperature grease also
I would LOVE to have an impact wrench like that one! They just don't make 'em like that anymore! :)
You're right. They're better now. Though I will admit that is a beautiful vintage impact wrench.
More of a repair than a restoration, but great job making it work again. I was expecting for it to look brand new again.
Great job! Never knew there was that much to an impact.
Now send it to the torque test channel for testing!
I’m curious, what’s the torque rating on it?
The Reason why the older drills of any kind had holes in the part that held the sockets is bcause they had ball-bearings on each side so the socket will stay on
Really good upload. Very interesting to see inner workings of one of these tools. I like all your uploads.
Coolest one yet !
Should last a thousand years!
SALUDOS CORDIALES DESDE GUAYAQUIL ECUADOR RESTORATION STATION MUY BUEN TRABAJO DE REPARAR MAQUINA ANTIGUA
That lubricant will last approx 2 weeks
I have one of these. I know what I'm doing this weekend.
Hi buddy, I liked your job, beautiful result 👍
Ingersol Rand uses grease, you need to use grease in the hammer and bearing areas. Oil is needed in the turbine and trigger areas.
Very satisfying to watch. Weldone.
Used one of these as a aircraft mechanic. When it was working right it was a hoss
Talent for sure!
Great I well remember the one my husband in the shop some years ago
perfecto... paso a paso... como se hacia antes... gran trabajo... un abrazo
When an Impact Wrench Was An Impact Wrench 😀😊❤️ Vintage Craftsmanship
Work of art!
You should have used grease in gears and forward. It will not stay good like that if used
One of my jobs where i work is to re-bulid pneumatic tools…. They haven’t changed much since this design….
nice job, nice tool
4:58 satisfying sound right there.
That's a laser gun and you can't change my mind
I wonder if that hole meant a spring loaded bearing used to be in there.
Did you manage to work out the torque it produced and if that fluctuated with air pressure?
This may seem like basic questions to some, but... When lubricating things, how do you know whether you should use oil or grease? And if oil, how do you know what grade of oil to use?
In a free spinning machine with light angular loading, you want oil. Grease causes drag until it heats up. Wheel bearing on cars use grease because they have high load and product enough heat to liquefy the grease.
@@racingfortheson Oh, thank you! That makes a lot of sense! 💗
If you are using oil, how would you know what grade to use? Answer is: If you are going to add/put new oil in to an Engine you must refer to owners manual. Broadly speaking; if it's a simpler/older/vintage engine like a lawnmower or a small motorbike without a complicated oil pumping and filtering system, you would use a single grade Oil like SAE 30 or 40. In this case as the number goes up thicker the oil gets, so you would use thicker oil(sae 40) in hot weather and in older/worn down engines, you would use lighter (sae30) in winter because it's thinner and more viscous. Multi grade oils would have two different number like 20W-50 or 0W-40 In this case the number next to W states the viscosity and lubricating capacity when the engine is cold and the other number states when the oil gets hot.
When it comes to general lubrication around the household items; you would use a light, non detergant oil. If not a mineral two stroke oil or Normal mineral oil would work as well.
There are certain things to keep in mind, Never use WD-40 or similar type of maintenance sprays/penetrating fluids on bearings or any other sealed units because the solvent used in these liquids/sprays will sip in and wash away or ruin the grease or lubricant.
On plastic/rubber items use silicon or silicone based lubricant.
For items subjected to wet weather conditions like bicycle chain etc.. then choose a lubricant contains Teflon or with ptfe.
Addition to previous comment: usually grease is used in sealed parts because if dust/dirt comes in contact, it will stick to grease and if not cleaned straight away. it will ruin the bearings/gears etc..
@@nitro74cs you are right on most. One thing about motorcycle oil, if it a wet clutch make sure it doesn’t have an friction reducers add. It will say “Energy Conserving” or something like that in API label. And WD40 isn’t a lubricant. It’s a penetrating oil or water displacer. So you are spot on with not using it on bearings. Wish I would have known that when I was I kid. My skateboard bearings would have lasted much longer 😂
@@racingfortheson Yes you are right and thank you for pointing the missing and the wrong parts. We all made similar mistakes.
Well done 👏 ✔ 👍
Fantastic video
Nuevecita otra vez.
Saludos desde 🇨🇴🇨🇴🇨🇴🇨🇴
Impact screwdriver bathed in oil! 🤣
great work
Very nice work.. What kind of oil did you use while assembling it.. it almost looked like baby oil?
Ha! It did! Mineral, maybe?
Air tool oil.
That rotating hammer assembly does need grease in it. Not a lightweight gear oil.
Great job 👍
Great fix
Design literally hasnt changed 😂
40 ft pounds of torque..lol. still awesome vintage rebuild
the good old days when things were designed to last a lifetime if you looked after them
i think u like Oil! 😆👌🏼 nice work
They used to make a lot of things in USA. Not so much now.
I actually liked it better with the old patina left on the body...
Is it possible to sand and polish the main aliminum parts to make them smooth and shiny, or there's no need to do this?
Good work👏👏👏
Çok kaliteli bir aletmiş. Bayıldım...
wonder what is the age of this great tool.
On the next episode, he restores stripped go kart lugs and studs 🤣🤣🤣
I agree. LOL
Why haven't you replaced all the bearings??
what is that liquid you spray all over impact?
Awsome work.
Even though I admit that cold bluing is convenient, I can't help but hate it. It's like water color that kids use but it pretends it's a metal surface treatment.
How much should I torque these nuts? All of it. LOL great job.
I wonder how much took it has
Good work.
Maybe itd be possible to do a dyno test of this @torquetestchannel
5:00 are those actual sounds from the tool or sound effects?
Still waiting for you to test that lawn mower out.
You couldn’t buy quality like that for any amount of money today. Sure is nice that didn’t end up in the garbage
Great job !!!.