Im glad you were properly lubed prior to the screwing and nutting. I have come to really admire your 'shell be right' attitude towards many aspects of your projects that I would get hung up chasing perfection on. I've been rebuilding my lathe for nearly a year off and on, and while being able to say I scraped my saddle and cross slide to between 40 and 50ppi with 60%pop etc is a cool flex... I STILL DONT HAVE A LATHE 💀💀. Keep up the good work.
Using a centre drill for cutting oil grooves? Now that's a first for me 😁 what a fantastic idea. Very impressed how this turned out(pun obviously intended)
Very nice work, the oil grooves worked out really well, and nice job on the screw/nut combo. That lathe will be a pleasure to work with I am certain, cheers!
I rarely need my 5.8mm drill and 6mm reamer, but when I do need them, they come in very handy. But really, you also need reamers that are -0.05mm undersize for an interference fit, and +0.05mm for a sliding fit. The cost adds up quickly.
Might I suggest a set of numbered drills even if it's just to fill in the small gaps between your METRIC "anchors" and your IMPERIAL "paperweights". I don't know if they're available to you at a reasonable price, but the Chinese offer a set that covers IMPERIAL, 1/16" - 1/2" x 1/64"; NUMBER, #60 thru #1, and LETTERS A thru Z, for about $150 Cdn here in Canada. Now that's a "PAPERWEIGHT"!
Dude there is no one who does Clickspring level filing except Chris I've tried and tried and still can't do it I don't know how he does it the way he does.
Metric or imperial precision marker :-) Constantly impressed how you push your equipment (and your experience) to and beyond what it has done before or is nominally capable of.
19:57 As an American, I feel the same about metric bits. I admit metric is a more efficient system, and I prefer it for physics and science, but I like old tools and machines, so I'll keep sticking with good old imperial for my craftsmanship. Also, all our optics tables and mounts are imperial too. Standardized is better than perfect.
I wish you'd countersink or counterbore your threads. It's such a simple thing that adds such a nice touch. Counterboring them helps with the leads mushrooming your mating surfaces too.
Great series, thanks! I've been considering doing something similar for my Grizzly G4003 12x36 lathe. The stock position for the toolholder is...lacking IMO. It would be nice to be able to set up toolholders on either side of the cross slide, even set up a milling attachment.
It's your fault I for giving me ideas for my next project, I've done about 3 or 4 of them up to now, but I don't thing that I'll be doing a cross slide, as the one on my lathe is already 300mm long. Maybe next time. Keep up the good work though. Cheers from the UK.
Big fan of flood coolant with threading. But nice demo . Big fan also of gear cutting but came undn when cut gear were taken from tech storage bin.. Loading up the crosslide with a finer thread is a excellent innovation. But concerned about scrapped surfaces. High density foam may be an idea for geared head noise .
My understanding is that reamers are intended to make a hole to size or slightly over, drills to size or slightly under but if you try and drill a hole in one go it'll drill oversize. To drill to the correct size drill an initial hole slightly below the desired size then use a drill of the size required.
Reamers are very precise. They make them to go .0005” above or below a nominal hole size. Drills main purpose is quick material removal but they might drill oversized due to runout or flex.
It is kind of counter intuitive but for future refence corse and Very Corse lead screw pitches are used in part for accuracy. They resist rotation due to vibration better than a finer pitch. Im probably late but if not may I suggest for your post mount screws and T nuts a good way to secure. Instead of 4 corners with say a 8mm or larger thread use a smaller m6 and more clamp screws. Also a couple of long one piece T nuts that have multiple threaded holes to match up with the tool post block. WHY? Well the block will be secured just as well, it will have the same or better clamp force and with a better distribution it will resist bending the cross slide. The long many hole T nuts will also just live with the post so for fine adjustments and an easy fit they work well. Also for ease of making you should just get a piece of cast iron stock as its base. Easy to work with and available. round can be roughed out with a hacksaw easily with the proper blade. Use a fine grain if you have the spare cash but the normal stuff is just as good you only need to use longer thread engagements.
Here are some other advantages of fine threads: Easier to tap: Fine threads are easier to tap into hard materials and thin-walled tubes. Less likely to loosen: Fine threads have a smaller thread incline and off torque, so they are less likely to loosen. More resistant to vibration: Fine threads have a shallow pitch or helical angle, which makes them more resistant to vibration. Require less torque: Fine threads require less torque to develop equivalent bolt preloads. Allow finer adjustments: Fine threads allow finer adjustments in applications that need such a feature.
@@VinnyCB2112 Like I said Counter intuitave. I wasnt talking fasteners i was talking lead screws. There is a big difference. The longer the lead the steeper the ramp in its resistance to rotation. Dont believe me? Look at any modern vs vintage CNC machine. Axis positional stability is always better with a tall lead. Modern screws often have a 200 mm pitch even though the motors and axis ways can handle higher stall torque and higher RPM.
The follower rest wearing out during use made me think that a solution could be to make the nubs mounted on a constant force gas pressure piston. That way it could provide a near constant force even while the nubs wear out. Then again an even easier solution is probably to do as many other makers have shown and use bearings instead of friction nubs...
The trick to make an undersized hole with a drill is to predrill the hole with next smaller drill. Usually this makes a hole 0.05 mm smaller than the nominal drill size with a very good surface finish. If that is not small enough then let the drill bit run in reverse and take material of whit a whetstone. Try to get a slight taper that the bit is thinner on the shank side.
I don't push the taper tap all the way through the tee nuts I make. That way the bolt thread binds up before getting to the bottom of the slot. I bought a used vertical slide that was damaged by the bolt, "jacking" the edge of the slot off the cast iron table. Fortunately a replacement table was relatively cheap to obtain. It was the shipping from UK that killed me.
Seems kinda bad, that one. I started wondering how you could make a better one - easier to set against the work, and managing the forces better. But somebody would have thought of a better principle by now if there was one!
Hey, sorry I'm late to the party. Just a thought, albeit a late one, but you could have done a cross slide nut like the old south bend 9a. Too late now of course, but maybe something to think about in future. Cheers mate
Not gonna lie You need to make a follower rest with bearings instead of brass contacts. And with an additional point of contact from the bottom to prevent it from deflecting downwards
Is that thread a commonly available size like TR12x2 or something? Because that's what I did on my cross slide screw, bought a piece of rolled trapezoidal thread (in my case TR10x2), machined one end with a stud and the rest from a piece of round bar with a fitting reamed hole for the stud. Used locktite and a tapered pin for good measure to make one single piece out of both. That way I also could use a store bought trapezoidal tap for the nut. Btw. I would have put the oilers a little bit deeper, maybe with a slightly counterbored section around, so they don't interfere with whatever you want to clamp onto the table with the t-nuts.
I'm currently planning to do the same thing for my lathe but i have hard time choosing a position for the lead screw nut. Any tips for that? Also how thick is the thinnest part of the slide for example thickness between the dovetail groove and T-slot? Great series to follow!!!🤔🤔😎😎
You can make a drill smaller by using a diamond sharpener on the sides, it’s useful if there’s not an equivalent imperial drill, or you don’t have one, a couple of minutes with the diamond sharpener and the size is slightly smaller.
The rest is offset because it's meant to ride on the machined surface, otherwise it will wear prematurely and push the material being machined unevenly. That's why it's called a follower rest.
tbh id incrase the size of the vernier scale to incrase the precision of it the old one was || 0.05mm, tbh || 0.02mm us the minimum tolerable, but the best one should be ||0.005mm tho just incrasing the diameter of the vernier scale even without actually actually putting the scales actually also incrase its precisions since its easier to slightly move it with a bigger one than a small one its why the vernier of a grinding machine is huge (i would convert your lathe into a grinding lathe for fun, but protecting the bed from grinding dusts, making a Electric Grinder Pen attachment, putting a potentiometer on the motor of the lathe to perfectly control its speed (for grinding and conventional threading) and putting a coolent filter to make sure the grinding dust stay out of the pipes, maybe putting an enclosure to prevent the coolant from spilling everywhere its just endgame build tho if you want to perfect lathe, you could even put small endmills in the electric grinder pen to mill on the lathe)
At 14:50, at the end of the day, only 1 thread is carrying the backlash forces, is that enough thread engagement for a long term solution? I think the "Hammerland" guy made an interesting backlash adjuster. And some other guy on YT, (Max Maker - Anti-Backlash Nut), made a Delrin nut by heating the plastic until it conformed 100% to the screw thread profile, plus Delrin is self lubricating and has a low wear coefficient.
10:50 Generally you wouldn't fully thread such a deep hole. Drill the full length with the tap drill size, and thread the first 15mm or so. Then remove most of the threads of a fully threaded bolt or use a short bolt and a plain rod. If the pin needs to stay with the bolt you can drill a hole in the end and press it in.
I was worried this was going to turn into a series that ended with you making a heat treat oven
And 4 lead screws, a live center, etc
oh no not again =))) that was my reaction
#inheritancemachining
I Like that WE are on the Same boat haha
Honestly I'd still watch the hell out of AM if he just copied all IM projects as they come out and just make them on a budget
Well thats the second lead screw from youtuber this month!
Third
@@leestons ooh I missed one, got a link?
Wasn't it five from him?
yeah, inheritance machining second attempt and some guy that does a lot of lead screws for other people
It was Hersch Tool.
I get nervous swapping change gears, and our man here is rebuilding lathes.
Im glad you were properly lubed prior to the screwing and nutting.
I have come to really admire your 'shell be right' attitude towards many aspects of your projects that I would get hung up chasing perfection on. I've been rebuilding my lathe for nearly a year off and on, and while being able to say I scraped my saddle and cross slide to between 40 and 50ppi with 60%pop etc is a cool flex... I STILL DONT HAVE A LATHE 💀💀. Keep up the good work.
The brass bushings on the follower were more like brass crayons.😂
Don’t tell the US marines, they’ll bite their teeth out on them
I respect the amount of hand cutting you do. It is kinda rare to see on machinist youtube
Love the "Screwed and Nutted" bit. The Ozzie sense of humour.
Using a centre drill for cutting oil grooves? Now that's a first for me 😁 what a fantastic idea. Very impressed how this turned out(pun obviously intended)
That marker trick is great. Makes so much sense. Some day that will help me a lot.
ah yes, the well known Sharpie ballend "mill", nonabrasive though :D
Good ol' lathe of Theseus
Better than the lathe of Oedipus
That caption 🤣🤣🤣 on the thumbnail. Dude, you are one brave SOB! I just love this channel!
The Best tool for the job is one that works.
In the real world improve is the norm, not the exception.
As always, never disappointed. Thank you.
Nice job. Impressed with the centre-drill cutting the groove..
Excellent work, good to see your hand is not bothering you. Thank you for sharing your time.
I love the whole concept of using your lathe to make parts for your pathe. It's the whole Dave Gingery thing.
Very nice work, the oil grooves worked out really well, and nice job on the screw/nut combo. That lathe will be a pleasure to work with I am certain, cheers!
I'm following closely, I have the same lathe with the same problems. thanks for the series.
I rarely need my 5.8mm drill and 6mm reamer, but when I do need them, they come in very handy.
But really, you also need reamers that are -0.05mm undersize for an interference fit, and +0.05mm for a sliding fit. The cost adds up quickly.
Imperial: Ah, but you still do need us after all!
Metric: Shut up you paperweight!
Might I suggest a set of numbered drills even if it's just to fill in the small gaps between your METRIC "anchors" and your IMPERIAL "paperweights". I don't know if they're available to you at a reasonable price, but the Chinese offer a set that covers IMPERIAL, 1/16" - 1/2" x 1/64"; NUMBER, #60 thru #1, and LETTERS A thru Z, for about $150 Cdn here in Canada.
Now that's a "PAPERWEIGHT"!
Really interesting process indeed! Great work, dude! 😃
Stay safe there with your family! 🖖😊
I'm excited for this series; can't wait for next week. It's all looking great man.
Dude there is no one who does Clickspring level filing except Chris I've tried and tried and still can't do it I don't know how he does it the way he does.
I think Chris cheats with special files too lol
Haha. My filing is that bad I invariably leave a curve or a bevel. 😢
@@quadpop4643you mean his home made ones ?
@@quadpop4643he makes his own. 😮
@@alanclarke4646 every single time never can get a good bevel. Chris makes it seem so easy!
Metric or imperial precision marker :-) Constantly impressed how you push your equipment (and your experience) to and beyond what it has done before or is nominally capable of.
Looking great. Well done with the lead screw. 👍👍👍
The oil channels remind me of a Christmas tree. It's probably the time of year! 🤣🤪
Excellent work. I love how you approach and attack your projects.
I enjoy seeing you bootstrapping your lathe!
Your project is moving along quite nicely.
19:57
As an American, I feel the same about metric bits. I admit metric is a more efficient system, and I prefer it for physics and science, but I like old tools and machines, so I'll keep sticking with good old imperial for my craftsmanship. Also, all our optics tables and mounts are imperial too. Standardized is better than perfect.
def worth a beer or two there! Happy Saturday!
The project is looking great.
We use centerdrills for engraving parts at our shop, they work great, in fact even better than actual engravers for smaller parts.
Watching Clickspring hand file is better than taking a chill pill.
I wish you'd countersink or counterbore your threads. It's such a simple thing that adds such a nice touch. Counterboring them helps with the leads mushrooming your mating surfaces too.
Great "forever Lathe" project !! Love your solutions.
Great video as always. But I can't believe that you are still using a hacksaw! We should all chip in for a nice bandsaw!
It’s a space/benefit trade off. Besides, avoiding all physical labor is a bad thing! :-)
Great series, thanks! I've been considering doing something similar for my Grizzly G4003 12x36 lathe. The stock position for the toolholder is...lacking IMO. It would be nice to be able to set up toolholders on either side of the cross slide, even set up a milling attachment.
It's your fault I for giving me ideas for my next project, I've done about 3 or 4 of them up to now, but I don't thing that I'll be doing a cross slide, as the one on my lathe is already 300mm long. Maybe next time. Keep up the good work though. Cheers from the UK.
Geez, you're brave doing the lead screw. Have a look at "Inheritance Machining" and the troubles that he had trying to do something similar.
That IM guy starts to be a bit annoying, that comedy line doesn't fit for him well.
@@belatoth3763it is a bit cheesy but he’s still a talented engineer and machinist.
Big fan of flood coolant with threading. But nice demo . Big fan also of gear cutting but came undn when cut gear were taken from tech storage bin..
Loading up the crosslide with a finer thread is a excellent innovation. But concerned about scrapped surfaces.
High density foam may be an idea for geared head noise .
Amazing job, man. Brazil!
Wow, what a showoff! Doing things like making a leadscrew only once!😜
Doing a good job. I hated doing mods on machine tools. It never goes as planned
My understanding is that reamers are intended to make a hole to size or slightly over, drills to size or slightly under but if you try and drill a hole in one go it'll drill oversize. To drill to the correct size drill an initial hole slightly below the desired size then use a drill of the size required.
Reamers are very precise. They make them to go .0005” above or below a nominal hole size. Drills main purpose is quick material removal but they might drill oversized due to runout or flex.
Making a tool to make other tools to replace the tools you broke while making the tool 😐. But when it doesn’t break, call it a win. 😊
Hey and welcome back to the Lathe of Theseus, where bit by bit I will replace every part of this lathe until I have a completely new lathe.
It is kind of counter intuitive but for future refence corse and Very Corse lead screw pitches are used in part for accuracy. They resist rotation due to vibration better than a finer pitch.
Im probably late but if not may I suggest for your post mount screws and T nuts a good way to secure. Instead of 4 corners with say a 8mm or larger thread use a smaller m6 and more clamp screws. Also a couple of long one piece T nuts that have multiple threaded holes to match up with the tool post block. WHY? Well the block will be secured just as well, it will have the same or better clamp force and with a better distribution it will resist bending the cross slide. The long many hole T nuts will also just live with the post so for fine adjustments and an easy fit they work well. Also for ease of making you should just get a piece of cast iron stock as its base. Easy to work with and available. round can be roughed out with a hacksaw easily with the proper blade. Use a fine grain if you have the spare cash but the normal stuff is just as good you only need to use longer thread engagements.
Here are some other advantages of fine threads:
Easier to tap: Fine threads are easier to tap into hard materials and thin-walled tubes.
Less likely to loosen: Fine threads have a smaller thread incline and off torque, so they are less likely to loosen.
More resistant to vibration: Fine threads have a shallow pitch or helical angle, which makes them more resistant to vibration.
Require less torque: Fine threads require less torque to develop equivalent bolt preloads.
Allow finer adjustments: Fine threads allow finer adjustments in applications that need such a feature.
@@VinnyCB2112 Like I said Counter intuitave. I wasnt talking fasteners i was talking lead screws. There is a big difference. The longer the lead the steeper the ramp in its resistance to rotation. Dont believe me? Look at any modern vs vintage CNC machine. Axis positional stability is always better with a tall lead. Modern screws often have a 200 mm pitch even though the motors and axis ways can handle higher stall torque and higher RPM.
I had the amusing thought, "What if he was using red Loctite instead of lubrication while machining?" 😜
Yeah, you don’t want to mix those up!
The follower rest wearing out during use made me think that a solution could be to make the nubs mounted on a constant force gas pressure piston. That way it could provide a near constant force even while the nubs wear out. Then again an even easier solution is probably to do as many other makers have shown and use bearings instead of friction nubs...
I put ball bearings on my follow rest.
It's working better than brass pins.
Nice work mate 👍
Robert
🇦🇺
The trick to make an undersized hole with a drill is to predrill the hole with next smaller drill. Usually this makes a hole 0.05 mm smaller than the nominal drill size with a very good surface finish. If that is not small enough then let the drill bit run in reverse and take material of whit a whetstone. Try to get a slight taper that the bit is thinner on the shank side.
Between your channel and Inheritance Machining my cup runneth over with shafts and nuts.
Great job👍🏻 5/5🔥🔥🔥🔥🔥
You should get one of those handheld bandsaws. Seeing you use a hacksaw for over inch thick material hurts me.
I think haveing two screws to fix the nut may come back to bite you. I feel a single scew and a firm fit dowel will be better.
An exciting experience for me. Thank you!
Make sure to stake the holes in the bottoms of the T nuts so that they don't damage the channel
I don't push the taper tap all the way through the tee nuts I make. That way the bolt thread binds up before getting to the bottom of the slot. I bought a used vertical slide that was damaged by the bolt, "jacking" the edge of the slot off the cast iron table. Fortunately a replacement table was relatively cheap to obtain. It was the shipping from UK that killed me.
Never seen a follower before. I'm surprised it hasn't got a bearing to reduce the wear
Seems kinda bad, that one. I started wondering how you could make a better one - easier to set against the work, and managing the forces better. But somebody would have thought of a better principle by now if there was one!
Hey, sorry I'm late to the party. Just a thought, albeit a late one, but you could have done a cross slide nut like the old south bend 9a. Too late now of course, but maybe something to think about in future. Cheers mate
Are you worried at all about the small contact area for the backlash adjustment? I would have thought that it should be much bigger.
Unreal once again 👌🏼
Not gonna lie
You need to make a follower rest with bearings instead of brass contacts.
And with an additional point of contact from the bottom to prevent it from deflecting downwards
Is that thread a commonly available size like TR12x2 or something? Because that's what I did on my cross slide screw, bought a piece of rolled trapezoidal thread (in my case TR10x2), machined one end with a stud and the rest from a piece of round bar with a fitting reamed hole for the stud. Used locktite and a tapered pin for good measure to make one single piece out of both. That way I also could use a store bought trapezoidal tap for the nut.
Btw. I would have put the oilers a little bit deeper, maybe with a slightly counterbored section around, so they don't interfere with whatever you want to clamp onto the table with the t-nuts.
1144 is the steel you want for lead screws. It's free cutting which you really want for a zero rake HSS threading tool. 45S20 is an ISO equivalent.
I'm currently planning to do the same thing for my lathe but i have hard time choosing a position for the lead screw nut. Any tips for that? Also how thick is the thinnest part of the slide for example thickness between the dovetail groove and T-slot? Great series to follow!!!🤔🤔😎😎
You can make a drill smaller by using a diamond sharpener on the sides, it’s useful if there’s not an equivalent imperial drill, or you don’t have one, a couple of minutes with the diamond sharpener and the size is slightly smaller.
At least you're getting lathed ....
Great video
I think you should key in the leadscrew nut to the cross slide. The SHCS's are not going to cut it in the long run.
"cross slide screws are always a reverse thread"... except for myford ones and drumond ones and..... :-)
thanks for the vid. cheers
Really well done.
25-30 mins is ideal video length just like this one
Big video. Chock full of action. Nice one.
Thumbnail appreciation comment
Nice job man.
The rest is offset because it's meant to ride on the machined surface, otherwise it will wear prematurely and push the material being machined unevenly. That's why it's called a follower rest.
So why did inheritance machining need to heat treat his leadscrew? 😂
This wa very informative today
Next time take a piece of that sand paper, fold it in half grit to the inside, put it under the followers brass pads and then soak the paper with oil.
Nice
Screwed and nutted? The innuendo! 😂
20:08 shots fired! 😂
🤣🤣👍
Did you see Inheritance machining trying to remake his leadd screw?
Sounds like more than a few of his followers are familiar with that "SAGA!"
19:40 funny i fill the exact same way about metric. 🎉😊
Thanks for the video
Making lead screen has somewhat become a Trend recently.😂
Christmas list:
1. Band saw (it has been about 3 years . . .)
Its the Lathe of Theseus 😂
I think machining the oil grooves was a little bit overkill. A die grinder would've done a perfect job and you could've done the dove tail too
tbh id incrase the size of the vernier scale to incrase the precision of it
the old one was || 0.05mm, tbh || 0.02mm us the minimum tolerable, but the best one should be ||0.005mm
tho just incrasing the diameter of the vernier scale even without actually actually putting the scales actually also incrase its precisions since its easier to slightly move it with a bigger one than a small one
its why the vernier of a grinding machine is huge
(i would convert your lathe into a grinding lathe for fun, but protecting the bed from grinding dusts, making a Electric Grinder Pen attachment, putting a potentiometer on the motor of the lathe to perfectly control its speed (for grinding and conventional threading) and putting a coolent filter to make sure the grinding dust stay out of the pipes, maybe putting an enclosure to prevent the coolant from spilling everywhere
its just endgame build tho if you want to perfect lathe, you could even put small endmills in the electric grinder pen to mill on the lathe)
shots fired at us imperial boys
A question on the follow along, is that high pressure grease or cutting oil that he is using? Might aid the wear he is experiencing.
Get you some anchor lube for tapping, makes your life easier
At 14:50, at the end of the day, only 1 thread is carrying the backlash forces, is that enough thread engagement for a long term solution? I think the "Hammerland" guy made an interesting backlash adjuster. And some other guy on YT, (Max Maker - Anti-Backlash Nut), made a Delrin nut by heating the plastic until it conformed 100% to the screw thread profile, plus Delrin is self lubricating and has a low wear coefficient.
top tier thumbnail
Well, at least you ain't piston broke! 😇
Try ECO brass. Used in plumbing so has to have next to no lead content. It's the hardest brass I machine
The title... Ohh you
10:50 Generally you wouldn't fully thread such a deep hole. Drill the full length with the tap drill size, and thread the first 15mm or so. Then remove most of the threads of a fully threaded bolt or use a short bolt and a plain rod. If the pin needs to stay with the bolt you can drill a hole in the end and press it in.
bravoo