How To: Install a Tsunami 2 Decoder into a Broadway Limited Paragon 3 Streamlined K4
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 7 ธ.ค. 2021
- Broadway Limited models are beautiful; however, their decoders can have some weird issues. In this video, we are upgrading a BLI Paragon 3 Streamlined K4 and custom installing a Tsunami 2 Steam-2 sound decoder. Personally, I took about 6 hours (this includes the planning, wire chasing, filming, etc). With the diagrams I provide (and a little elbow grease), I believe an experienced modeler can complete this job in under 3 hours. I hope you enjoy the video and learned a thing or two!
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Hi all! I have a light Pacific from Broadway Limited that did the same thing. Did some research and found a way to do a Hard Reset on the decoder. The CV8 thing does not fix this problem.
The easiest way I found to to the Hard Reset is to do it using a DC controller. Remove the shell of the tender to expose the decoder. Put loco and tender on the DC track. Hold down the Reset Button and while holding the train, dial up the DC power until you hear a Chime. All reset and should work.
BTW nice video.
Thanks for the comment, unfortunately I can't perform it on this model, because well, the decoder got replaced haha. But next time I have an issue like this with another model, I will try this. If anyone else has success please let me know. I really hope this is a solid fix! Thanks again for the information!
Broadway Limited models are great runners by themselves, I’ve done several BLI upgrades myself.
Nice and clean installation Scott. I'm hoping that Jordan's son is having hours of fun with it now that a reliable decoder is now installed.
Wow nice video you done. Hope there more to come.
Great and thanks very much for replying to my comment. Have a Great Christmas and Happy New year. Take Care & Stay Safe.
I had 5 out of 6 Broadway Limited's P5a do the same thing ...
Had to install tsunami II decoders , it fixed the problem ---(( SOME WHAT ))
The motors started to heat up extremely HOT ...
MOTORS HAD A SHORT CURCUIT !!!!!
Had to install new motors also ..
The motors are JUNK , WHICH FRIES THE DECODERS ...
Took one of their motors apart , there is
NO NILON WASHER BETWEEN THE ARMATURE AND BEARING , which sends electricity throughout everything causing short circuits that feed back into the decoders...
ALSO LOOK FOR THE PRESSURE WASHER IS ALL THE WAY INTO THEIR MOTORS FLYWHEEL THAT LOCKS THE DRIVE SHAFT TO THE FLYWHEEL .
If your model has sound but does NOT MOVE , THATS YOUR PROBLEM !!!!!
JUST TYPICAL B.L.I. , TAKE IT OUT OF THE BOX AND GOES INTO THE REPEAR SHOP !!!!!!!
Wow that sounds awful, I'm glad I didn't have to motor swap for this one.
Very nice tutorial. I’m looking to get the DGLE version and install Wowsound. A TCS board will help negate the resistors and have the keep alive on it from the get go. I will definitely be using this video as a guide for the install but will omit the resistors and adding scale sound systems speakers or my personal set up using Soundtraxx 1” speakers in series with double tall baffles glued to the chassis, it gives better sound and bass.
Funny you mention that, I just posted my DGLE version on eBay. I'd love to see the end results! I'm sure the speakers would be a nice upgrade. Also the WOWsound would sound amazing.
Nixtrainz’ Decoder Buddy boards also have built in resistors which can also support TCS 21 pin boards, alongside ESU and Soundtraxx’s own 21MTC boards too
@@OvernightScaleModels I will definitely try to share them to you when it all happens. Right now I’m going to hold off on getting stuff as Christmas is close. I definitely won’t keep the paragon 3 in the engine, even if the decoder is in perfect condition, and go straight to Wowsound.
@@CentralJerseyRailfan as I understand the versatility of the buddy, I won’t use one. I try to keep all items used the same brand as much as possible, especially board and decoder pairings for aftermarket installs.
Very nice job. Inspiring me to switch the decoder in my BLI 3751 class Northern now.... :)
After seeing the results, it makes me want to do all my BLI engines. Maybe starting with the BLI Santa Fe Mikados or my Paragon 3 3751
@@OvernightScaleModels I did my BLI ATSF 3751 northern. Installed an ESU decoder. Completely rewired wirh new Soundtrax 9 plan plug between loco an tender, new led headlight, Installed firebox light and cab light after super detailing the cab. Very happy with the results. Will be doing the same with all my 2-10-2s now. Far better sound and overall loco control. Thanks for the inspiration 😃
@@1stArizonaSub WOW! You gotta post a video of her! I was thinking the same thing about installing a cab light and firebox flicker. Was the 9 plug pin female installed in the engine or tender?
@@OvernightScaleModels 9 pin male in the loco, female plug with loom in tender, soldered via circuit board with resistors for LEDs, and directly to the decoder for all others. Loco all new wires soldered to the little horse shoe shaped circuit board attached to the male plug. Pc board filed slightly to slot right in original position of old plug
@@OvernightScaleModels th-cam.com/video/NANLg5cJC1g/w-d-xo.html
Can you tell what the wiring pins of the engine from left to right represent? I am planning to do a TCS WOW upgrade.
If you go to 3:56, I show you the wiring pins for the engine. But also, I recommend watching the entire video because there are more than 1 circuit board that needs adjusting/modifying
Hypothetically speaking, if the LEDs are the opposite polarity then the NMRA standard and all you are doing is reversing it, could you not reverse the way you solder them to the decoder. I’m not sure if this would work but if so it would be much easier then reversing each LED. Again I don’t know, the wiring harnesses might make that not work but would it be a possibility?
Great question! Unfortunately no it wouldn't work the way we want it to. Will it work, yes. But not the way we want it to. In this model, every led has the negative lead connected (which is backwards to NMRA having positive connected to everything). So if I place the front headlight negative lead to the negative lead, then all LED's (class lights, cab light, etc) would turn on when you turn on the headlight. But if you completely remove all wiring from the harnesses and circuit boards and hardwire straight to the decoder, then yes you can totally have all light functions separated without reversing each LED. But that is way more work than flipping the LED. You're talking more wiring, more of a mess, more soldering, more heatshrink. It gets too complicated. In this model, our goal is to separate the LED's into separate functions. So reversing the LEDs is less work in my eyes.
@@OvernightScaleModels I see, thank you very much for the explanation.
Fix my Big Boy please 😭😭😭