Tsunami2 TSU-2200 Decoder Install in a Broadway Limited Mikado 2-8-2
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 16 ก.ค. 2024
- In this video, George walks you through the steps to disassemble the locomotive, remove the factory installed sound system and replace it with a Tsunami2 TSU-2200 decoder. The principles discussed in this video are applicable to any Broadway Limited locomotive install.
In this video, we do not set up the decoder for this specific model. Keep an eye out for a future video where we will adjust the CVs to optimize the Tsunami2 decoder for realistic operation of a Mikado 2-8-2.
Tsunami2 TSU-2200 Steam-2 Decoder (P.N. 884007): soundtraxx.com/products/tsuna...
SoundTraxx CurrentKeeper: soundtraxx.com/accessories/in...
SoundTraxx Heat Shrink Assortment: soundtraxx.com/accessories/in...
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Great video! Thanks for sharing this kind of information!
Thanks for watching!
Great video! Thank you for this well presented, step by step instructional video. I am going to give this a try now thanks to this video.
We hope this helps you and if you need any help along the way just reach out to our Support Team: soundtraxx.com/contact/technical-support
The original speakers that came out were in parallel. The way you're wiring the new speakers, they are in series. So if the speakers are each 4 ohm, in series the load becomes 8 ohm. In parallel, 2 - 4 ohm speakers would become 2 ohm load.
Yes. Our amplifier works best with an 8-Ohm load or more. So if they are 4-Ohm speakers, than in series they would be at 8-Ohms. And in parallel, as you mention, 2 Ohms would damage the amplifier. But if I recall, these were 8-Ohm speakers, so 2 in series is actually a 16-Ohm load, great for the amplifier because it doesn’t work as hard as it would for impedance less than 8. The best practice is to have two speakers wired in series, regardless to help the amplifier. You will still get all the benefits of the dual speaker volume and frequency range. For more info, contact us at support@soundtraxx.com
Very comlex and so see the way to do things. Vision is a thousand manuals. Patrick from England
Thanks for the feedback!
Thanks for this video. I currently have a Miwaukee Road S3 Northern BLI Paragon3 that I traded in the decoder to you guys for a TSU-2200. I am eagerly wanting to get the decoder installed and get the model back on the rails again.
Yay! Let us know how it turns out.
I am really hoping good. Hate letting such a beautiful loco collect dust.
@@PantherLineProductionsofOhio Yes that is a shame!
Great vid but I would have used the plug for the headlight so you can remove the boiler completely like you did for the install
Great idea
Just got through upgrading my BLI 2-8-2 using your video as a guide. In my case, when I went to test it out without the tender shell, I could hear nothing and thought the sound was bad. After checking everything and resoldering a few joints, I tried it again and, at first, I thought I had accomplished nothing but I put my ear very close to the speakers and heard just a whiff of a sound. I tried blowing the whistle and actually heard a tiny sound. It's better with the tender shell but now I need to adjust the volume. Just a warning to anyone else trying this. If you are the least bit hard of hearing, trying blowing the whistle if you have not yet put the tender shell back in place. It just may save you a few cuss words.
The speaker you use makes all of the difference.
@@SoundtraxxDCC The speakers were the two original speakers that came with the unit.
@@geraldjones2278 I am not sure about the quality of those speakers, but if you don't like how they sound we can make recommendations on new speakers.
Great video George.
I have a BLI 4-6-6-4, Challenger... one of the newer paragon3 locos. I have had issues with the P3 decoder since it was new, I’ve sent it back to BLI for warranty work, and it came back and still doesn’t work correctly so I just put it on a display shelf. I have some other older BLI quantum locos that I’ve converted to Soundraxx a couple of years ago, they were pretty straight forward, so I thought I would just do the same with this Challenger... when I opened it up I could not make heads or tails of all of the circuit boards and electronics in the boiler. This video helped out a lot... I will take it off the display shelf and crack it open again and see what I can do with it now.
Thank you
Out of curiosity (because I have a BLI Challenger with Paragon 3 as well), did you ever change your Challenger's P3 decoder out successfully? And if so, was it difficult or fairly similar to the locomotive in this video? May be doing the same thing you were talking about trying, changing its decoder.
@@salvatorericca8353 I never changed it out. I reset the decoder again after receiving it back from BLI and it seemed to work. I have been a little intimidated about swapping it out even though I don’t particularly care for the broadway limited sound files.
@@powellph I completely understand the intimidation factor in swapping it out on a loco this big and expensive/complex. I'm with you 100% when you say that you don't particularly care for the Broadway Limited sound files, they just sound very generic to me. I would love to put a Loksound decoder in a Broadway limited challenger or big boy with the correct sound file. I think you'd probably have just about a perfect locomotive at that point. The sound just isn't very good, and although I have not had a problem with the decoder on my BLI challengers or big boys, I always read so much about the decoders going out all over the Internet that I am always kind of holding my breath every time I put one of them on the tracks and try to start it up. I'm always afraid it's gonna be dead, but it hasn't happened as of yet. Depending on the locomotive, particularly these big steamers, I probably would be willing to try to swap out the decoder if and when one of them went out. But I would be a little bit concerned when it comes to the Challenger or big boy because they have so many more functions, more lighting functions and other functions, and it makes it complicated. I have some cab forward Broadway Limited steam locomotives and they are pretty straightforward, just a headlight and rear light as well as the smoke for the smokestack. I've never actually opened up these locomotives to see how all of the wiring is done, I'm really not sure exactly how the smoke function is wired, but as far as the lighting it would be easy on one of these cab forwards. If you're thinking about putting a different brand of decoder in your BLI Challenger but are afraid to do it yourself, I would recommend DCC Train in Cincinnati, Ohio. They have done some work for me over the years (and I actually bought my BLI 4014 from them years ago) and Alex is excellent at changing decoders, he taught me a huge amount about how to install them myself. I think he would be able to do it without any problem. Another shop that could do it, but I haven't used myself (except for buying things), is Tony's Train Exchange in Vermont.
We are glad this helped! If you need any assistance we are here for you: (970)259-0690 ext. 22
I know you can adjust the cuff rate with a Tsunami 2 but you do have the option of using a trigger still. Would that reed switch generate the proper input for the cuff function?
You don't need a cam with Tsunami2 learn more here: th-cam.com/users/results?search_query=soundtraxx+cam
I have a BLI 4-8-2 with an original Paragon decoder. Would love to upgrade it!
Do it! We are here to help with any questions you have along the way.
Hi, i hope you're checking old video comments. I operate N scale. I have a BLI N 2-8-2. I would like to use a bachman 2-8-4 tender to make it a long hall tender.
My question is, can I combine the two sound systems, or do I need to swap out the Bachman for the BLI sound? I hope I explained it clearly. Thanks for responding. 😊
Our Support Team can give you advice on how to best do this: (970)259-0690 ext. 22 or support@soundtraxx.com
Hey, for anyone here, be careful when installing with newer BLI locomotives. I had tried to add Tsunami 2 to the new BLI 2-8-0 and it won’t work unless you run without the headlight wired installed. I’m not sure if this is a one off with my locomotive, but, I had been in a big back and forth with BLI trying to get a new stock decoder.
This is odd, I would recommend talking to our support team to figure out what is going on. You can contact our Support Team for more information: (970)259-0690 ext.22 or support@soundtraxx.com
Nice video....I have a lot of older brass. (about 30-35 steam engines). Not sure I would convert all of them to DCC, but perhaps 4 of my favorites.
You can always start with one - but you might get hooked! If you do convert some we would love to see the results!
@@SoundtraxxDCC I probably would start with my 2 United Brass Sierras. I have a 2-6-6-2 and a 2-6-6-0. Would you have a recommendation as what to install? Also, are there any complete DCC kits with speakers and all components needed for the conversion. Lastly, these both have open frame motors. Will that be a problem with decoders? They both run very smoothly. Thanks....
Phil
@@uptownphotography There is not a kit. Use the TSU-2200 for HO brass and 28mm round speaker and baffle.
TSU-2200: soundtraxx.com/products/tsunami2-digital-sound-decoders/tsu-2200/
28mm Speaker: soundtraxx.com/accessories/speakers/round-speakers/28mm-round-speaker/
@@SoundtraxxDCC Thanks for sending this info. I will have to check the stall current on the open frame motor. I hope they will stay under 2amps...If you have any recommendations on Motor replacements please let me know in case I will need to change out the open frame motors. Thanks..
Phil
@@uptownphotography If you need to change the motor email our support department (support@soundtraxx.com) and they will give you their 2 cents.
Great idea, well detailed. My question is, I have a BLI GS4 with smoke generator , which the BLI sound card seems to have given up the ghost. Is there any way that I am able to install a new tsunami decoder to also work the smoke generator that is standard fit on this model.
Any info or guidance you can give will be greatly appreciated.
Many thanks
Anthony S
You can use a function output on the Tsunami2 to run your smoke unit. Our Support Team can help you more: (970)259-0690 or support@soundtraxx.com
Might I ask what soldering iron you are using? Or what you would reccomend?
Ours are older Weller Soldering stations.
We recommend a temperature controlled soldering station and rosin-core solder for installing any SoundTraxx sound system. If the cost associated with a quality temperature controlled soldering iron is too high for your budget, we suggest using a 25 Watt soldering iron readily available from electronics supply houses, home improvement stores or online sources such as eBay and Amazon. Ensure that you purchase a grounded (3-pin plug) iron to prevent unwanted discharge of voltage onto the surface being soldered to.
Do not use a soldering iron rated for more than 40 Watts without the aid of a temperature control system. Doing so can impart damaging levels of heat onto the working surface of a decoder, speaker or LED.
I am curious... could you have left the board inside of the boiler and just figured out what wires you need and wired it up?
Contact our Support Team for more information: (970)259-0690-ext.22 or support@soundtraxx.com.
What do you do with the Seuthe smoke machine when you upgrade a Paragon2
or 3 to the Tsunami2?
Personally we are not a fan of smoke units so we remove them, but they can be hooked up to a function output. For more info on this contact our Support Department: soundtraxx.com/contact/technical-support
@@SoundtraxxDCC Thanks. I talked to a guy who also installed one on a BLI Bras Hybrid. He just kept the smoke unit disconnected. Not too many "smoking locomotive" fans out there. I'm not one due to allergies and sinus issues with liquid smoke.
@@mike6206 Yes, we are not big fans of smoke units either.
Is that a standard JST plug? I have to replaced mine
Which plug? The loco to tender connector may be, but you would have to contact Broadway for either a replacement or the JST connector type to find it. If they cannot help, then we offer the DBX-9000 loco to tender wiring kit to replace it. If you are referring to the connector on our decoders, we offer these connectors for replacement, so no need to spend hours finding someone to sell the parts.. If you need further assistance, contact us at support@soundtraxx.com
George, you kept saying they need to be wired in parallel but they already are. Did you mean they need to be rewired to series?
Yes, we had a mistake here. Series is correct.
I have the Broadway Limited Blue Line Heavy Mikado that is Burlington Route 5501. It has contacts that touch together between the shell and the chassis for the headlight and not a connector. Is it possible if you can get ahold of one of these to do an install on? I am not sure what other differences there are or if the tender connector wire orientation is the same.
I cannot say i have seen a different version, but if you contact Support with a photo of what you have, we will try to help.
Since i do not have one of those models myself, I cannot do an install on one on video. But lets start with support and a photo and we'll see what we can do. I suspect the install process would be similar.
Thank you for watching! ~G
Can I use my digitrax dcs 240 and a multimeter to test stall current on my dcc sound factory equipped broadway limited locomotives? If so, anything I need to do differently from the stall current video you made?
No. You must use a filtered (pure) DC power source capable of supplying 2a or more power. The DCC systems send ‘dual-wave’ DC, so any readings he gets will be inaccurate. Best to use a cheap DC power pack from a train set.
Like an Athearn Trainpak?
@@PantherLineProductionsofOhio That one may have PWM built in. One of the best ones we have found is from a Bachmann train set. Please contact our Support Department directly for more help with this, thank you. SoundTraxx Support Department: soundtraxx.com/contact/technical-support?
Can this installation work by using a Soundtraxx Tsunami 2 1100 decoder on a Broadway Limited locomotive?
The TSU-1100 is limited by the locomotive stall current. Contact our Support Department for more info on this: support@soundtraxx.com
I enjoyed the video but I do have a question. When you tested the headlight your tester included the needed resistor for the LED but when you installed the decoder you made no mention of how you added the resistor for the headlight. How did you do so?
Another question unrelated: Does the TSU-1100 has a plug for a current keeper?
Thank you
Bob
The 1k resistor was added in line with the white wire to the headlight. I thought I mentioned it, but maybe not. Sorry.
The TSU-1100 does not have a plug, but wire the blue wire of the CurrentKeeper to the blue function common and the black CurrentKeeper wire to the green/yellow stiped wire (decoder ground).
George send this reply to your comment from his personal goaliegeorge account. Were you able to see it? I couldn't on our SoundTraxx account.
@@SoundtraxxDCC yes I can see it, thank you.
@@bobharris5872 Thanks for the feedback, I am not sure why we cannot.
Hey George, could you do a step by step on installing a PNP board into a scaletrains top hat locomotive? They have a wireless connection for the lights so I do not know if a resistor will be needed and would be amazing to watch that install done by a pro rather than botch it up trying to do it myself. Thank you for reading. Keep chugging on. :)
Our installs are limited to models that we have access to, but we are always here to offer advice: (970)259-0690-ext.22 or support@soundtraxx.com.
Now how would a Tsunami work with a BLI smoke unit loco with the puffing smoke?
Will not ??
You can control the smoke unit with a function output. Contact our Support Team for more information: (970)259-0690-ext.22 or support@soundtraxx.com.
George, that looks like a nice wire strippers, mine is only one wire and has be adjusted for the wire gauge, what is the brand of the stripper you are using and where can I purchase one?
We use a few different brands. One is ideal. You can find several brands like them on Amazon or at stores like Home Depot: www.amazon.com/s?k=wire+strippers&ref=nb_sb_noss_1
Thanks so much!
@@steve5526 Of course. We are here if you need anything else.
5:28 Need to Wire in series, + [ ] - > + [ ] -
Yes you are right
Thank for the video, I have that same engine, # 316, apparently one of the first QSI electronics. When I got into HO scale years ago, there where no electronics in the trains😳. I picked this one up at a garage sale. Has sound, no power to the motor, can I send it to you,? You can do a trouble shooting video with it. I will be happy to pay for any parts needed. 🤓
I'm sorry for the slow reply. We do not offer install services, but you can contact our Support Department directly for more help with this, thank you. SoundTraxx Support Department: soundtraxx.com/contact/technical-support?
Speakers wired in series or parallel, dialogue needs review!
Yeah you need to explain impedance
We did have a mistake here - they are in series.