How to update Broadway Limited Blueline Steam Engines to latest decoders
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 13 มิ.ย. 2017
- This model is the Santa Fe #3751 which I picked up off the fb train sale groups very inexpensively. The model has been redone using a Soundtraxx Econami ECO-200 decoder. Please hit the subscribe button for future videos!
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Insanely useful info my man! Thank you for the upload!!
I just picked up a BlueLine Niagara from my local shop today. Tsunami 2 and updated lights, if needed, will be tossed in and it will be amazing!
I’ve got a side question not related to the video. Why was there BLI and Precision craft if they were basically the same?
BLI used QSI decoders, Precision Craft used ESU-LokSound decoders. Once Broadway Limited decided to use their own in-house design decoders (Paragon2) they dropped the Precision Craft label.
I also updated my broadway limited locomotives. Although mine are newer, I did not like the sound decoders in them. I went with the eco-200 decoders
What remote can I use for a broadway limited engine for HO-scale?
I recently got a sd30, ran like butt, well barely ran at all...changed out the decoder with a laying around economi, runs great now
nice install video thanks for sharing.
Good stuff Rodimus - a good take-away from this is keep it neat and not a lot of wires, because I'm going to be doing an install in a MUCH smaller locomotive: An old brass 4-4-0
Great information....thanks for posting. You feel the tsunami 2 is better sounding then ESU ?
WestCoastRails for some locos, for #3751 at this time tsunami 2 is better, loksound still is lacking on steam files
Hey! Great videos. I was looking forward to how you upgrade/replace QSI decoders. I have recently purchased two BLI models both using QSI quantum. Would it be possible for you to make a video on them and what upgrades would you recommend? I am legit following your foot steps in collecting Pennsy stuff and have been trying to learn as much as possible as I just recently got back into the hobby. Love your videos btw.
The process for qsi is almost exactly the same as blueline or paragon 2/3 you have to wire everything from scratch
@@RodimusPrime Ok, good to know. Are there any decoders you recommend? I have a K4 and M1B. Both have QSI Quantum. Thanks in advance!
Nice detailed video.
I have a lot of older brass. I would like to convert my favorite 5 or 6 steam engines (I have about 30-35 brass steam). I can't do them all, too expensive, but want to do my favorites. What brand decoders w/sound would you recommend for changing these engines over to DCC? Being new to DCC it is a little overwhelming at first as I am still in the wiring stage of the layout and I'll need to run about 350-400 feet of bus wire and I really would like to keep my favorite engines for DCC conversions. Thanks.
Phil
Great video. It gave some great information for my upcoming project. What was the value of the resistors you used? I'm going to be putting a tsunami to into a bli Class A.
1/4 watt 1k ohm
How do u know which harness wire goes where on the decoder?
I'm sorry not to speak ENGLISH fluently.
Recently, I also bought the "BIG BOY" blue line.
The instructions are in English, so I'll do my best to translate them.
This made me think. Remove the 4 rectifier diodes to take the existing decoder out of the picture. Plug new decoder into the NMRA plug and hardware the speakers to the new decoder. Very little hacking and I keep the harness connectors if there are repair events. Any thoughts?
I keep the connectors, the factory bli board is poor hardware and best to just junk
Rodimus Prime Thanks for the advice and quick reply!
@@jameshughes8481 ive also occassionally noticed some ground loop or emf noise in the speakers using the blueline decoders thats why i junk them keep the connectors and keep the capacitors off them for future reuse
hello im from italy, your video is very nice, i have problem with my blue line prr m1 b 4-8-2it was a very goog runner but one day i stopped on the track and died.....every time you give power the front boiler lights work, but the loco dont move, i opened the tender and every time you give power the sound bar coming realy hot and make orrible noise......merry christmas and sprry for my poor english. patrizio.
What resistor did you use on the headlight and tender light?
Usually a 1k ohm
@@RodimusPrimeThanks , 2 or 1\4 wat?
@@SleeTheSloth 1/4
do you know how to add a keep-alive to a paragon3 loco? thanks!
Theres a capacitor thats already on the board really all you have to do is replace it with a bigger one its like a black tube on the one end
would i be able to take that off and just solider a TCS K2A to those pads?
@@NSReadingLineRailfan you could probably just go with a 4700uf cap and save 20 bucks should do the job
ok because i have a paragon3 pacific and it stops on EVERY switch frog there is ive cleaned all the wheels and pick ups and lubed it all with conducti-lube and cant get it to stop stalling so this is my last option, because the one from a factor doesnt do anything.
Ok so here’s a question for ya, I unsoildered the cap from the board and soldiered a TCS K2A to the pads since I had a few sitting around and it still doesn’t have any keep to it, it still stops on dirty track or when the power is interrupted.... could the p3 transmitter have anything to do with that? I’ve installed KA’s in a few loksound and Tsunami’s and they work everytime, this one is throwing me for a loop.. any suggestions? Thanks!