Feel free to get in touch with me on FB if you have any troubleshooting questions! Support the channel and pick up these sick mojomoto parts for your CRF here >>> mojomotosport.com?aff=141
FOr carb cleaning I use these tiny brushes you can buy on ebay. I spray carb clean into the tiny openings, then the tiny brushes. Then blow out with air. For stubborn dirt in the jets I use a brass string piece from a brush. Always hold the small openings against the light to see if they're clear. I've had the most stubborn dirt stuck in there. Oh and and don't look into the openings when you spray carb cleaner into them with the straw. Don't ask how I know. :-)
Thank you very much for posting this. I regularly maintain and service my friend's CRF250R, suspension overhaul & re-valve as well but the FCR carburator (versus the much simpler Mikuni on my YZ125) was always intimidating. Great step by step of the different sub-assemblies shown, not having to tear it down to a hundred loose pieces at once. Merci / Thanks !
Great video! You explain things clearly and have good camera angles. There are a few other vids about this that don't come close to the quality of yours. Thank you.
Thanks for making this video, I use JIS screwdrivers, if you want to have a firm grip on the screw use JIS, just read about it and try, never strip a japanese bolt again.
You forgot to check. The seal. Where the the throttle. Opens and closes. Cr top plate. Get the needle out and there should be a round seal. Look about for tear.
Great video. I would add one more step before install I fill carb with fuel and test the accelerator pump. I had one not work right and had to pull carb again.
Dirt builds up under it an on the sides keeping it from closing all the way an hanging up. The rollers on the side will to if it has them. Hope this helps!
Sorry for the late reply! If anyone else has this problem: make sure you didn't drop one of the needle washers into the slide area. There are also sometimes small lock washers for the slide caps to watch for. If there is none of that holding it up then take some brake clean to it until it runs smoothly. You can also lubricate it with WD40.
hi mate great videos! i have a 04 crf250 and it will not start from cold on the kickstart no matter what i do, if i bump it it will fire straight away! and when warm can get ti start after a few kicks with tiny throttle, would u say this is valves, piston or carb problems i have had the carb of and clreaned it and also have checked valve clearences
+FollowTheFlip i have found half the problem, my inlet valves were seriousley worn out so i replaced them put it all back together and thag slightley improved it startimg bit still terible! so i cleaned the carb and it was still the same! i took it to a shop amd they think its down to the ignition system (cdi, dodgy wire) so i am currentlt playing anout with that to see if i can find the issue
+FollowTheFlip i recommend finding out the tolerance for crf2004 valve clearnces and if theyre tigt between the camshaft and valve bucket theyre gonna need replacing
I would suspect the decompression clearance is off. Could be time for a piston/rings. Could still have a plugged pilot jet or air passage on the intake side of the carb. There are literally hundreds of reasons it may be acting up. Go through systematically with your manual and our videos to see if anything is out of the ordinary.
You bet. You need to use rubber safe cleaner though. Automotive cleaners will destroy anything that isn’t metal. I use Honda carb / combustion chamber cleaner.
in minute 3:17 when you say to remove the o ring prior to cleaning yours has something vooper looking in it well mine doesnt.. would i have to buy it to install it?
Never seen that before. I really have no clue how that would happen. Feel free to send me some pics on my Facebook page and I’ll answer any questions you have. Be sure to Like and share the vids!!! Thanks for watching!
Thank you so much for this video 🙏🏻 Took a friends carb apart today and according to your video the diaphragm was installed the wrong way. Would this prevent the engine to start? 🇸🇪
If you’re used to priming with the accelerator pump before start up then it likely would. If you usually just use the choke then it might not be your only issue. Glad you liked the video and thanks for watching! Be sure to hit the thumbs up button in the video and share it with your riding buddies!
Awesome video! I am about to have to do this as my CRF450x has developed idle fluctuation. Did you have to remove the shock to get the carb off? It doesn't look like it, but I didn't know if you had the top or bottom unbolted? Thanks again for the video, going to save me a lot of headache.
The X is a bit bigger job. You have all the wiring/battery to deal with when removing the subframe. The shock will have to come out to pull the carb. If you're patient, you can try to loosen the carb boots, remove the subframe bolts and maneuver the carb so you can access the float bowl to blow the orifices and jets clear. It can be extremely frustrating and you have a higher probability of stripping the float bowl screws if they're tight. Good luck and thanks for watching!
On 2005 CRF250X there is no way I can get carb will slip out the top like that. I removed head stay and still no room. I have to unhook throttle cables from twist and hot start cable and slide out left side.
I think on the X you have to remove the sub frame and rear shock. Those are kind of a pain it the ass. Be super careful not to break the hot start seat! Really easy to break when working around the carb.
I've got a CRF250X , it only starts with the choke on and I let it idle with the choke for about 1 minute , and when I put the choke off it just dies ? Any suggestiions what to do ?
+Shaun Priest sorry for the extremely late reply. If it was idling good at one time and now it doesn't, you'll need to clean the pilot circuit. Thanks for watching!
Will carb be a big problem for me? I'm buying a 450r carberated and I won't go off road. I'm only going to be driving it on the streets. (yes all dirt bikes are street legal in my country)
hi mate i commented this vid probably 4 years ago, i'm from brazil and it helped me a lot even though i couldnt understand a word you were saying, but now 4 years further i'm quite more confident w the language. with that said my question is: when i'm riding the crf 09 and come close to a turn where i need to quick decelerate (kind like going to iddle speed) the carb take sometime to do that (not instantaneously as it should be), i have put like 4 or 5 ml of 2 stroke oil with the petrol it has gotten better but 100%... do you have any suggestions in how to fix this problem? thanks mate
I wouldn’t put any oil in your 4 stroke. It changes the density of the fuel and will likely just foul your plug. 5ml in 6 L isn’t going to do much but there’s no reason for it. Sounds like you have a hanging idle. I would start by adjusting your air mixture screw. You probably have your idle set too high and the mixture screw set wrong which will make it run rougher at idle. Go buy one of those knob type adjustable mixture screws and put it in the carb. There’s a tiny spring, o ring and washer on those screws so be careful; the o ring will likely stay in the orifice and not come out with the other parts. Set it at 2.5 turns out and then warm the bike up. Once it’s warm, set the idle as low as it can go without stalling and start turning the screw until the rpm changes. See if you can adjust it to get the idle to go up. There will be 2 numbers of turns you’ll end up with. It may idle down at 4 turns and at 1 turn, everything in between will seem to run better. Set it in the middle at 2.5 turns. Your throttle should be super crisp and rev down no problem. That’s where I would start, there could be 20 different thing causing your issue but I can’t get into that on TH-cam comments!! Hit me with a like and share the vids if you like them!!
Thanks very much mate for the answer I definitely gonna try this tips on the next weekend (i'll buy this quick air adjuster first cos mine is the original one) Thanks again and stay safe
I understand it can be adjusted without taking the carb fully out, but just to clarify... You can remove the jets all together without taking the carb out?
You'll have to at least loosen the sub frame and pull the carb out of the boots to pull all of the jets. The pilot and the main can be removed by turning the carb sideways and pulling the float cap. Going to need a lot of patients though.
Usually it's from having the mixture screw improperly adjusted or a plugged pilot circuit with the idle turned up to compensate. Clean the carb thoroughly with compressed air and get an aftermarket adjustable mixture screw. Otherwise, you may have an air leak somewhere. You can find a leak by spraying flammable brake clean over possible trouble spots. (such as an intake boot ect) the idle will fluctuate with the added fuel if there is a leak present. Have a fire extinguisher handy, just in case.
In my experience it’s best to leave the body assembled and only go into where fuel / debris can sit. I would only do an absolute tear down if the whole carb was soaked in some kind of solvent that might affect the o rings.
@@CoteMotorcycles yesterday pulled a fcr from 2005 wr450. Needle bent, middle body gaskets 2005 ( factory used glue). Can't post the pictures. Was disgusting.
If it's idling ok, I'd say it's a worn clutch basket not releasing the friction plates properly. If it's not idling well I'd say it's your pilot screw adjustment or plugged pilot circuit. I'd need way more info to diagnose it properly, hope that helps.
You can try loosening the carb manifold clamps and carefully turn the carb sideways to access the float bowl. To clean the carb properly you should remove the carb, meaning removal of the subframe, tank and top shock mount. Keep in mind, contamination may be coming from the air filter and through the air jets or through the fuel tank. We have videos showing you exactly how to do all of that so it should be a piece of cake.
Fuel, brake fluid and engine/trans oil change for sure. I would also change the air filter with a new one instead of cleaning it. Tires can crack over time and bearings can rust so check your wheel and steering bearings to be safe.
I typically use twin air filters and maxima filter oil. I would stay away from k & n, they tend to let more debris through that doesn't help the intake valve issue on those bikes.
+CoteMotorcycles must carburar the bike with air and gasoline, because when I sped up so fast it sucks ?? in the video goes a bolt 2 turns you give that to serving
+Mike Hanby I use honda combustion chamber/carburetor cleaner. Seems to work the best out of all the products I've used, won't swell any rubber parts like other cleaners. After using carb cleaner you can use brake clean and compressed air as a final step.
+Matthew H it really depends on the product you're using. Some manufactures use rubber safe formulas while others don't. Typically brake clean will dry(shrink) rubber and varsol/carb cleaner will make it swell.
+Matthew H it really depends on the product you're using. Some manufactures use rubber safe formulas while others don't. Typically brake clean will dry(shrink) rubber and varsol/carb cleaner will make it swell.
+CoteMotorcycles I have a carburetor of Crf 250, but do not know the number of orifices, use 48 low and 185 high, but what would be the next original factory?
I don't get it why wouldn't you clean the slide and the rest of the upper carburetor. Also no attention to the mid body???? Just not a very good or thorough cleaning.
There’s really no reason to disassemble anything more than is shown for cleaning purposes. Use parts cleaner and compressed air for the slide and slide linkage. You’ll typically only gain regret and remorse if you pull the TP sensor or slide to clean the mid body. The slide can go in either way and it’ll drive you crazy when you can’t figure out why the bike runs like crap after a fresh carb clean.
@@goboardcanada6263 I beg to differ with you sir l just completed a cleaning of an fcr39mm and the upper segment with the slide and its mechanisms were the dirtiest part of the carb. There are instructions on how to install the slide and there is no need to mess w/tps.
This is all you usually need to clean unless the bike was kicked over in a ditch with the airbox off….definitely wouldn’t touch the tps. As long as the fuel / air passages are clear the rest of the carb can usually just be blown out with compressed air as there’s no fuel above the float bowl and there’s usually an air filter stopping dirt.
These are the comments that really make the countless hours of filming and editing worth while. I apologize for the 30 seconds of your life you'll never get back. But then again, it's my name on the video soo......
Feel free to get in touch with me on FB if you have any troubleshooting questions!
Support the channel and pick up these sick mojomoto parts for your CRF here >>> mojomotosport.com?aff=141
What’s your fb
@@bacardialpha3136 just search Cote motorcycles and it should pop up.
Most 2000s mx intro I’ve ever seen, love it
I'm posting a link to this video in the comments of all other FCR carb videos, to help people find what they are looking for.
Great job!
Much Respect! Thanks for watching!
I am crying I didn't see your video first 😭 job well done!!!
Appreciate the comment!!
That was very educational and very professional! Southwest Louisiana thanks you!!!
Thank you so much! Excellent video! I followed step-by-step and completely cleaned my carb without any issues! Keep the videos coming.
FOr carb cleaning I use these tiny brushes you can buy on ebay. I spray carb clean into the tiny openings, then the tiny brushes. Then blow out with air. For stubborn dirt in the jets I use a brass string piece from a brush. Always hold the small openings against the light to see if they're clear. I've had the most stubborn dirt stuck in there. Oh and and don't look into the openings when you spray carb cleaner into them with the straw. Don't ask how I know. :-)
i wanted to thank you for this video. super helpful and informative! thank you for taking the time to do this.
Thank you very much for posting this. I regularly maintain and service my friend's CRF250R, suspension overhaul & re-valve as well but the FCR carburator (versus the much simpler Mikuni on my YZ125) was always intimidating. Great step by step of the different sub-assemblies shown, not having to tear it down to a hundred loose pieces at once. Merci / Thanks !
Great video! You explain things clearly and have good camera angles. There are a few other vids about this that don't come close to the quality of yours. Thank you.
Thank you for the comment, glad you liked it. Be sure to share so we can make more!
Thanks for making this video, I use JIS screwdrivers, if you want to have a firm grip on the screw use JIS, just read about it and try, never strip a japanese bolt again.
Greatly detailed video in only 10 minutes. solid visual before tearing into one.
Great video and easy explanation!
Thanks a lot mate, carb service made easy this time!
Thanks for watching brother!
Solid tutorial video! Thank you!
Man you just saved me!!!!!!!(crf450r carb cleaning)!!!!!!
Chevy Swag glad to hear it!
By far best video out there thank you!
Glad to help! Hit me with a like and share! Thanks for watching!
This is an AMAZING video. Just what I needed :) Thanks!
Glad you liked it. Thank you for the comment!
Thank you, your job is very good, including all the necessary details!!! Ευχαριστώ!!!
Great to hear!
Be sure to like and share the vids with your riding buds! Thanks for watching!
@@CoteMotorcycles of course!
You forgot to check. The seal. Where the the throttle. Opens and closes. Cr top plate. Get the needle out and there should be a round seal. Look about for tear.
Great video. I would add one more step before install I fill carb with fuel and test the accelerator pump. I had one not work right and had to pull carb again.
Not a bad idea! Thanks for the comment!
Thank you!
You bet!
My slide is sticking after cleaning the upper part of the carb with carb cleaner (in video: 8:28) What can I do to get it sliding smoothly again?
Dirt builds up under it an on the sides keeping it from closing all the way an hanging up. The rollers on the side will to if it has them. Hope this helps!
Sorry for the late reply! If anyone else has this problem: make sure you didn't drop one of the needle washers into the slide area. There are also sometimes small lock washers for the slide caps to watch for. If there is none of that holding it up then take some brake clean to it until it runs smoothly. You can also lubricate it with WD40.
Nice vid, thanks for helping and taking the time to produce it
Nice video, I wonder if you know if a 2004 crf230f's carburetor will fit on a 2007 crf230F?
You can go to bike bandit.com and compare the part numbers to know for sure. Very likely it will though.
@@CoteMotorcycles Thanks!
hi mate great videos!
i have a 04 crf250 and it will not start from cold on the kickstart no matter what i do, if i bump it it will fire straight away! and when warm can get ti start after a few kicks with tiny throttle, would u say this is valves, piston or carb problems i have had the carb of and clreaned it and also have checked valve clearences
+Rob bambrough I would love to hear his response. I have the same problem with my 04
+FollowTheFlip i have found half the problem, my inlet valves were seriousley worn out so i replaced them put it all back together and thag slightley improved it startimg bit still terible!
so i cleaned the carb and it was still the same! i took it to a shop amd they think its down to the ignition system (cdi, dodgy wire) so i am currentlt playing anout with that to see if i can find the issue
+FollowTheFlip i recommend finding out the tolerance for crf2004 valve clearnces and if theyre tigt between the camshaft and valve bucket theyre gonna need replacing
I would suspect the decompression clearance is off. Could be time for a piston/rings. Could still have a plugged pilot jet or air passage on the intake side of the carb. There are literally hundreds of reasons it may be acting up. Go through systematically with your manual and our videos to see if anything is out of the ordinary.
You let the float bowl soak overnight without taking the gasket out?
You bet. You need to use rubber safe cleaner though. Automotive cleaners will destroy anything that isn’t metal. I use Honda carb / combustion chamber cleaner.
@ perfect timing thank you
in minute 3:17 when you say to remove the o ring prior to cleaning yours has something vooper looking in it well mine doesnt.. would i have to buy it to install it?
Amazing video!! Question what if the accelerator pump jet has moved and is shooting into the air box? Ever seen that before?
Never seen that before. I really have no clue how that would happen. Feel free to send me some pics on my Facebook page and I’ll answer any questions you have. Be sure to Like and share the vids!!! Thanks for watching!
CoteMotorcycles Roger that!! I will see what it’s doing carb was just jetted for wrong elevation was super clean but that injector jet is puzzling..
Excellent video extremely informative step-by-step
Thank you so much for this video 🙏🏻
Took a friends carb apart today and according to your video the diaphragm was installed the wrong way. Would this prevent the engine to start? 🇸🇪
If you’re used to priming with the accelerator pump before start up then it likely would. If you usually just use the choke then it might not be your only issue.
Glad you liked the video and thanks for watching! Be sure to hit the thumbs up button in the video and share it with your riding buddies!
Thanks from Poland
Awesome video! I am about to have to do this as my CRF450x has developed idle fluctuation. Did you have to remove the shock to get the carb off? It doesn't look like it, but I didn't know if you had the top or bottom unbolted? Thanks again for the video, going to save me a lot of headache.
The X is a bit bigger job. You have all the wiring/battery to deal with when removing the subframe. The shock will have to come out to pull the carb. If you're patient, you can try to loosen the carb boots, remove the subframe bolts and maneuver the carb so you can access the float bowl to blow the orifices and jets clear. It can be extremely frustrating and you have a higher probability of stripping the float bowl screws if they're tight. Good luck and thanks for watching!
+CoteMotorcycles Thanks for the info, I agree, shock needs to come out.
I just removed my x carby by lifting the subframe up ...shock still bolted in
Thank you for the video!!!😊
Thanks for watching!
8:52 the throttle chap is stuck up and I cant get it back down any tips? thanks
Thanks from Norway
That's the best so far
thanks from brazil
Glad you liked the video! Definitely need to do some riding in Brazil one day. Thanks for watching and please pass the videos on to your friends!
Glad you liked the video! Definitely need to do some riding in Brazil one day. Thanks for watching and please pass the videos on to your friends!
sabe a numeração dos gicles originais desse carburador? vai me ajudar muito man
Do you know where I can buy a replacement accelerator pump nozzle?
where is tps connector located?
my head jet is broken, what can I do? thanks for video dude
Great video!
Glad you found it useful! Thanks for watching!
Very well made video. Thank you
Thanks for watching! Please thumbs up and share!
Excellent video!
whats the name of parts that you remove on 5:24? (plastic white)
Mauricio Freisleben baffle plate
Whats that part for?
On 2005 CRF250X there is no way I can get carb will slip out the top like that. I removed head stay and still no room. I have to unhook throttle cables from twist and hot start cable and slide out left side.
I think on the X you have to remove the sub frame and rear shock. Those are kind of a pain it the ass. Be super careful not to break the hot start seat! Really easy to break when working around the carb.
would it be better to just buy a carburetor repair kit? with new jets and o rings?
I've got a CRF250X , it only starts with the choke on and I let it idle with the choke for about 1 minute , and when I put the choke off it just dies ? Any suggestiions what to do ?
adjust the idle screw or mixture screw once it is up to running temperature
If that doesn't work then you might need a bigger pilot jet.
+Shaun Priest sorry for the extremely late reply. If it was idling good at one time and now it doesn't, you'll need to clean the pilot circuit. Thanks for watching!
Will carb be a big problem for me? I'm buying a 450r carberated and I won't go off road. I'm only going to be driving it on the streets. (yes all dirt bikes are street legal in my country)
hi mate i commented this vid probably 4 years ago, i'm from brazil and it helped me a lot even though i couldnt understand a word you were saying, but now 4 years further i'm quite more confident w the language. with that said
my question is: when i'm riding the crf 09 and come close to a turn where i need to quick decelerate (kind like going to iddle speed) the carb take sometime to do that (not instantaneously as it should be), i have put like 4 or 5 ml of 2 stroke oil with the petrol it has gotten better but 100%...
do you have any suggestions in how to fix this problem?
thanks mate
I wouldn’t put any oil in your 4 stroke. It changes the density of the fuel and will likely just foul your plug. 5ml in 6 L isn’t going to do much but there’s no reason for it. Sounds like you have a hanging idle. I would start by adjusting your air mixture screw. You probably have your idle set too high and the mixture screw set wrong which will make it run rougher at idle. Go buy one of those knob type adjustable mixture screws and put it in the carb. There’s a tiny spring, o ring and washer on those screws so be careful; the o ring will likely stay in the orifice and not come out with the other parts. Set it at 2.5 turns out and then warm the bike up. Once it’s warm, set the idle as low as it can go without stalling and start turning the screw until the rpm changes. See if you can adjust it to get the idle to go up. There will be 2 numbers of turns you’ll end up with. It may idle down at 4 turns and at 1 turn, everything in between will seem to run better. Set it in the middle at 2.5 turns. Your throttle should be super crisp and rev down no problem. That’s where I would start, there could be 20 different thing causing your issue but I can’t get into that on TH-cam comments!! Hit me with a like and share the vids if you like them!!
Thanks very much mate for the answer
I definitely gonna try this tips on the next weekend (i'll buy this quick air adjuster first cos mine is the original one)
Thanks again and stay safe
I understand it can be adjusted without taking the carb fully out, but just to clarify... You can remove the jets all together without taking the carb out?
You'll have to at least loosen the sub frame and pull the carb out of the boots to pull all of the jets. The pilot and the main can be removed by turning the carb sideways and pulling the float cap. Going to need a lot of patients though.
Do you know how can i fix the "hanging idle" problem? I have that problem on my CRF 450R....If you know please help.
Usually it's from having the mixture screw improperly adjusted or a plugged pilot circuit with the idle turned up to compensate. Clean the carb thoroughly with compressed air and get an aftermarket adjustable mixture screw. Otherwise, you may have an air leak somewhere. You can find a leak by spraying flammable brake clean over possible trouble spots. (such as an intake boot ect) the idle will fluctuate with the added fuel if there is a leak present. Have a fire extinguisher handy, just in case.
alexini5 i have that bike and same freaking problem i took the hole carb apart and put it back together it worked perfecto
@@sammielitherbury1801 check your valves
@@This0is0pointless lol that commrnt was 2 years ago i have 2 new bikes now
@@sammielitherbury1801 I didn't even notice that lol
Is this applicable to a 2005 CRF250R? I have a carbureted 4 stroke
Should be the same carb.
Do I empty my gas tank before removing??
I don’t. Turn the fuel valve off and you should be good to go!
The middle body needs to be clean as well. 4 orings there are really important
In my experience it’s best to leave the body assembled and only go into where fuel / debris can sit. I would only do an absolute tear down if the whole carb was soaked in some kind of solvent that might affect the o rings.
@@CoteMotorcycles yesterday pulled a fcr from 2005 wr450. Needle bent, middle body gaskets 2005 ( factory used glue). Can't post the pictures. Was disgusting.
Nice video very informative.
Be sure to hit that thumbs up and share our vids with your friends!!
Thanks for taking the time to leave a comment!
how do you adjust float level the manual doesnt really explain that well should the carb be flat on its side or at an angle
Carb should be upside down and level. Very rare that the float needs adjusting.
+CoteMotorcycles will running rich cause over heating
If you install the starter jet and the slow jet before the baffle spacing am I going to be wrong?
Great video! ! Thanks! That o..ring and washer fell out ...didn't know how to reinstall. Awesome thanks! 😁
Whats the hot start plunger for ?
It lets more air into the fuel / air mixture for easier starting when the bike is hot.
@@CoteMotorcycles thankx for replying 👍
Thanks very much!
No worries!
Thanks for watching! Please thumbs up and share!
Thankyou
Hey my 03 450r runs and idles ok,but when I pull the hot start it dies and im at the max turns of 3.5 out
Hot start is used to start your bike when it’s hot. I would expect the engine to stall when the lever is pulled.
Bike will stall out starting to move slowly or when I come to stop I know it's not my clutch skills so what is it you think ??
If it's idling ok, I'd say it's a worn clutch basket not releasing the friction plates properly. If it's not idling well I'd say it's your pilot screw adjustment or plugged pilot circuit. I'd need way more info to diagnose it properly, hope that helps.
You can try loosening the carb manifold clamps and carefully turn the carb sideways to access the float bowl. To clean the carb properly you should remove the carb, meaning removal of the subframe, tank and top shock mount. Keep in mind, contamination may be coming from the air filter and through the air jets or through the fuel tank. We have videos showing you exactly how to do all of that so it should be a piece of cake.
Fuel, brake fluid and engine/trans oil change for sure. I would also change the air filter with a new one instead of cleaning it. Tires can crack over time and bearings can rust so check your wheel and steering bearings to be safe.
I typically use twin air filters and maxima filter oil. I would stay away from k & n, they tend to let more debris through that doesn't help the intake valve issue on those bikes.
Use air filter oil only. I like the tacky spray on oil, the pour on oil seems to seep out after a short time.
great intro.
a question like do to adjust the carburetor air and gas
few laps from the air is a crf 250 r 2008
Sorry, that question doesn't make any sense to me.
+CoteMotorcycles must carburar the bike with air and gasoline,
because when I sped up so fast it sucks ??
in the video goes a bolt 2 turns you give that to serving
could you explai how you did the second throttle cable you skipped past it and mine wont go on
second throttle cable?
YeahWeRepTheSameSmartech lol just found this comment, gold
My bike cuts out and bogs at the top of each gear but runs fine cruising it want try to die just cuts out like it’s missing what could that be
Thanks from Estonia!!!!!!
Is there a Vacuum Release Plate & Seal on this Carb ?
Yes
What is the product you are using for the "parts cleaner" in the video?
+Mike Hanby I use honda combustion chamber/carburetor cleaner. Seems to work the best out of all the products I've used, won't swell any rubber parts like other cleaners. After using carb cleaner you can use brake clean and compressed air as a final step.
+CoteMotorcycles Would brake cleaner swell rings?
+Matthew H it really depends on the product you're using. Some manufactures use rubber safe formulas while others don't. Typically brake clean will dry(shrink) rubber and varsol/carb cleaner will make it swell.
+Matthew H it really depends on the product you're using. Some manufactures use rubber safe formulas while others don't. Typically brake clean will dry(shrink) rubber and varsol/carb cleaner will make it swell.
+CoteMotorcycles So I should try to get parts cleaner?
What exactly are the TPS sensors for on these carbs?
Throttle position sensor for the ecm to adjust ignition timing.
+CoteMotorcycles That's what I thought but wasn't sure. lol Thanks man!
Joseph Ros
Awesome vid
My ap pump has no rivet on the diaphragm.
that was great, thanks
my link arm is stuck :(
does this work on a crf 150r
Hello father🤓
Hahaha! Working on your motorcycle?
My 230f is different 😔
Oi, sou do Brasil, você sabe a numeração dos gicles?
Sorry...English is my only language.
+CoteMotorcycles I have a carburetor of Crf 250, but do not know the number of orifices, use 48 low and 185 high, but what would be the next original factory?
+Gabriel Cardoso no way I could know that. You'll have to go to the dealership and see what they came with from the factory.
+GoBoardCanada Nao tem um padrao de gicles em que todas vieram? Tenho muito que saber os que vieram originais de fabrica Editar
what if my carb doesn't want to shoot the gas at all
might be accelator pump
Bravo👍
Greattt !!!!
Please enable subtitles in Spanish. Thank you
I don't get it why wouldn't you clean the slide and the rest of the upper carburetor. Also no attention to the mid body???? Just not a very good or thorough cleaning.
There’s really no reason to disassemble anything more than is shown for cleaning purposes. Use parts cleaner and compressed air for the slide and slide linkage. You’ll typically only gain regret and remorse if you pull the TP sensor or slide to clean the mid body. The slide can go in either way and it’ll drive you crazy when you can’t figure out why the bike runs like crap after a fresh carb clean.
@@goboardcanada6263 I beg to differ with you sir l just completed a cleaning of an fcr39mm and the upper segment with the slide and its mechanisms were the dirtiest part of the carb. There are instructions on how to install the slide and there is no need to mess w/tps.
top brzil....
Veddy goodentaken. Dunke.
You didnt clean the mid body
This is all you usually need to clean unless the bike was kicked over in a ditch with the airbox off….definitely wouldn’t touch the tps. As long as the fuel / air passages are clear the rest of the carb can usually just be blown out with compressed air as there’s no fuel above the float bowl and there’s usually an air filter stopping dirt.
Longest intro in the world
So basically take it to the Honda dealership then.
Hang on.....did I....?
No. I didn’t say that at all!
Get in there and clean your damn carb man!
And then there's fuel injection!!!
👌😍😭 the crying is because mine is carbureted
+Mark Magness much cheaper to change or clean jets in a carburetor versus changing a fuel pump or an injector
Intro is way to fucking long
These are the comments that really make the countless hours of filming and editing worth while. I apologize for the 30 seconds of your life you'll never get back. But then again, it's my name on the video soo......
+SIRplsDNT That chick is banging, wtf are you talking about? Lol!
Do you know what would cause my crf150rb to boggout only when it's in low rpms?
God's Child Loving Life idol is probably too low