Real World Undercoating Test: Fluid Film, NH Oil, Krown and More...
ฝัง
- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 5 มิ.ย. 2024
- On this episode I tested 10 different undercoatings over a 5 month Ohio winter. POR 15, Fluid Film, NH Oil Undercoating, Krown undercoating, LPS 3, CRC Corrosion Inhibitor, RP-342 Cosmoline, Amsoil Metal Protector, and old school rubber undercoating. After the panels spent 5 months outside in the elements I pressure washed each coating to see how well it held to the surface.
Links to products used in the video:
Rubberized Undercoating:amzn.to/2ZBYo3H
POR 15: amzn.to/2DBInkW
Stabil Rust Stopper: amzn.to/2XRW86m
CRC Corrosion Inhibitor: amzn.to/2ZONbwK
RP-342: amzn.to/2XOaTar
Amsoil Metal Protector: www.amsoil.com/shop/by-produc...
LPS 3: amzn.to/2DD5fjJ
NH Oil Undercoating: amzn.to/2GPJoaT
Fluid Film: amzn.to/2IZP5o3
Help support the channel by using my Amazon links
As an Amazon Associate I earn from qualifying purchases.
Here is a link to Krown's lifetime warranty policy:
krown.com/en/warranty/
At the bottom of this policy Krown states that any unpainted undercarrage parts of a vehicle involved in an accident must be repainted then, Krown must be reapplied to keep this lifetime warranty. Sounds to me like Krown is fully aware their product does not work on bare metal.
Questions? Shoot me an email at repairgeek365@gmail.com
Disclaimer:
The information, demonstration and any content contained in this video is for informational purposes only. The user Repair Geek makes no warranty, express or implied, regarding the effectiveness or safety of the contents of this video. In no way should the contents of the video, including the tools used, be repeated or tried by anyone. Viewers should only seek the help of a trained professional located at a licensed auto repair shop for any fix, modification, alteration, or any change to their vehicle. Repair Geek shall not be liable for any injury, damage, or loss to any person or property that may result from use of the tools, equipment, or any content contained in this video. In addition, there is no way to guarantee that the video is not altered or modified or is not in the final form submitted by Repair Geek and therefore, Repair Geek does not warrant that the video is unaltered or not modified. The links on this video to products are for informational purposes only and in no way are an endorsement of the safety or effectiveness of the particular product. Viewers understand that anything contained in this video or linked to or from this video is the sole responsibility of the viewer and in no way provides an express or implied warranty as to the safety or effectiveness of any linked tool, product, or video. Therefore, viewer agrees to release, waive, and discharge Repair Geek or anyone affiliated with Repair Geek, from any and all liability, claims, demands, actions, and causes of action whatsoever arising out of or related to any loss, damage, or injury, including death, that may be sustained by the viewer, or to any property belonging to viewer, regardless of whether the loss is linked to the use of the contents of this video, or otherwise and regardless of whether such liability arises in tort, contract, strict liability, or otherwise, to the fullest extent allowed by law. - ยานยนต์และพาหนะ
Links to products used in the video:
Rubberized Undercoating:amzn.to/2ZBYo3H
POR 15: amzn.to/2DBInkW
Stabil Rust Stopper: amzn.to/2XRW86m
CRC Corrosion Inhibitor: amzn.to/2ZONbwK
RP-342: amzn.to/2XOaTar
Amsoil Metal Protector: www.amsoil.com/shop/by-produc...
LPS 3: amzn.to/2DD5fjJ
NH Oil Undercoating: amzn.to/2GPJoaT
Fluid Film: amzn.to/2IZP5o3
Help support the channel by using my Amazon links
As an Amazon Associate I earn from qualifying purchases.
Here is a link to Krown's lifetime warranty policy:
krown.com/en/warranty/
At the bottom of this policy Krown states that any unpainted undercarrage parts of a vehicle involved in an accident must be repainted then, Krown must be reapplied to keep this lifetime warranty. Sounds to me like Krown is fully aware their product does not work on bare metal.
Do people ever mix inhibitors… say use CRC in crevices and FF everywhere else? I just bought my first car (brand new)
Young Man, I want to give you a heart felt, sincere thank you for your thorough, well worked review of these different products. You saved me time, money and frustration from a hit and miss approach. Thank you.
I second that comment…I have watched a lot of similar videos but believe he has done the best on this subject of undercoatings!
@@jeffwilliams9086
You are correct.
I can't believe no one from the utility company took it down over all those months 😂 This was an awesome test, with so many products!
Great test! I did something similar when choosing my spouse.
Matt Kind I love you 😂
And how did that work out?
Always wondered why she made me stand in front of that telephone pole overnight.
Matt Kind you sprayed them all down and kept the one that handled it best?
😂 nice
I bought a new ram 1500 Big Horn hemi. I took it home and spent five days taking it apart to use fluid film to prevent it from rotting out the way I see a lot of ram trucks rusting out. I pulled the fender liners out, I took out the grill, the headlights, the tail lights, I took the rubber off the top of the rear bumper, I took the runningboards and the running board brackets off, all of those things I took off so I could get fluid film under them before the salt got there. I took the access cover off of the tailgate to spray inside, I bought the fluid film attachment for the spray cans it’s a bout 4 feet long hose and I went in the access holes of my ram all the way up to the roof on both sides of the windshield, and the door posts. Two years later, I’m getting ready to do the third application which I am going to do every year. There’s no rust under there..
My last truck was a 2008 GMC Canyon four-door 4 x 4. I bought it new also...I read the owners manual cover to cover and in the owners manual it said, if I undercoat the vehicle, I void the warranty. So I did nothing as far as undercoating on that vehicle. I thought general motors must be very confident in their corrosion coatings protection....Well I ended up losing the brakes twice from rotted brake lines, I lost the fuel lines from rot, the supports for the bed and the back bumper were so thin from rust that during an annual state inspection, the state inspector told me that this metal holding the bumper on it’s not gonna last too many more years. The bumper was bubbling, the chrome had gotten salt under the chrome finish... I had to replace the front brake rotors, I discovered the splash guards for the backs of the front rotors were disintegrated from rust. The frame was completely covered with sheets of rust that would come off with a scraper in sheets. The only thing I ever hauled in that pick up truck was a picnic bench kit, and a washing machine once. It was not at work vehicle. It was what I consider to be an SUV with a bed on it. The corrosion under that vehicle scared me into trading the truck in, it only had 42,000 miles on it, it had never been in an accident... I was very lucky that the body and the finish on the truck still looked like new, so the clearcoat and the General Motors paint job held up very well.
That’s why I spent five days rustproofing my ram 1500 with fluid film. Because of what the salt in Pittsburgh Pennsylvania did under that GMC.
I did try saving the GMC with POR 15 on parts of the frame. There are heavy warning labels on that about getting it on your skin. I wore long sleeve work clothes and gloves with cuffs on them. I coded my face with Vaseline. But I got some of the poor 15 where the gap on my arms between the gloves and the long sleeve shirt left my skin exposed. I ended up going to two different doctors because of what it did to my skin. That stuff does not come off.. I was diagnosed with folliculitis. And I missed two days of work because of the rash looking damage it did to my skin. It looked exactly like poison ivy or poison oak covered skin. POR 15 is dangerous. Not only is it Difficult to work with, but it did not stick to the frame on my GMC on the upper control arms which I was able to prep with a wire brush and spray with brake cleaner .. you can’t just attach a sprayer and stick that into a door where you can’t see where it’s spraying and cover everything in there with POR 15. If you get it on the glass, how are you going to get it off. It doesn’t travel like. Fluid film does. Fluid film that I sprayed actually traveled up hill. The bed of my new truck was factory spray coated with black undercoating bedliner it looks like. There are holes in the walls of my truck bed for ??That fluid filmI did not spray in the bed, but it got near the drain holes and it actually traveled into the bed and uphill through those accessory tiny holes in the wall of my bed. And it traveled into the bed through the drain holes in the bed. The fluid film spread out in about a 6 inch circle over the first summer. So that stuff does travel into the nooks and crannies where you wanted to go to get there ahead of salt..So when it gets hot, that stuff travels into the areas where salt water make it before salt water gets in there... I read that fluid film is actually good for leather. I coated two pair of my work boots with it and a couple of belts that were suffering from age, they were getting hard and not flexible. My red wing work shoes sucked that fluid film up and he feels soft and supple. My belts softened up also. And they look very good like I had just polished them. Fluid film was running out of my hood and down over the glass on my headlights of my ram 1500 this past summer because of the heat of the sun. It just wiped off. For the last two winters, I coated my chrome bumpers, & my factory chrome mag wheels with fluid film, and I left it on there all winter without touching it. I just put it on the rag, and wiped it on and left it there. It just looked shiny. When I washed my truck after the end of winter, The bumpers and the wheels looked like new.. I put plastic aftermarket fender molding on all four of my wheel arches as well as mudflaps. Before I put the wheel arch covers on, I sprayed the entire painted area that the plastic cover would cover with fluid film and put the plastic wheel arch covers over that thick layer of fluid film.
The reason I am so meticulous about the rustproofing is because I am retired now, and this truck cost more than I paid for my first house. In 1977, I bought a brand new Ford Econoline van. I sprayed underneath the trunk and inside the doors with clean motor oil when the truck was new. The truck lasted me 31 years.. The areas I did not spray with oil rusted out, down below the windshield in where the windshield wiper linkage is, and inside the rocker panel on the opposite side of the side door. I only applied that motor oil one time in 1978. The truck only had 67,000 miles on it when I junked it, because the frame and the suspension components just were a little past it..
I wish they had fluid film, or I wish I had known about fluid so when I bought that ford van new. I’d probably still be driving it here in 2019
The holes they put in the frames of vehicles provide a few purposes: Water / road salt drainout, engineered crumple points in a collision, the holes can be markers for when the car is assembled, and the distances between holes are measured by the manufacture and are used for re-aligning the frame in a collision (I'm a collision repair technician).
I have just sprayed StaBil rust stopper undercoating on my 1995 GMC. It's never been Zebarted not had other protection applied before. So all the frame and body mounts had surface rust. Never garaged so it was an orange rusty mess.
I made a TH-cam video halfway thru the process. Thanks
@walt charamba I named the video, StaBil rust stopper works on suburban th-cam.com/video/vTJSlew_qzg/w-d-xo.html
@walt charamba thanks. I'll think about getting a permanent undercoating. Wishing I could do a frame off restoration just to preserve the frame: ( and prevent por15 overspray ) lol
I bought a can of POR15 a couple years ago and didn't use it. After seeing TH-cam reviews that aren't favourable I managed to sell it a couple months ago for $5 more than I bought it for!
My experiences with Krown. BTW we live in St Andrews NB Canada right on the ocean, actually it is a peninsula island surrounded by the ocean.1. My wife's 08 Acura MDX was treated new by the dealer in Ontario. We bought it in 2012 in Nova Scotia, no rust. Continued with the treatment until my daughter totaled it (she is fine) this past August and there was no rust on our X anywhere. The tow truck driver was shocked with how good the condition that our old X was in and could not believe the frame did not crack in half and that my daughter walked away when she crashed into (along) a tree line sideways at 60 MPH until a tree finally brought her to a stop.2. 2006 Civic purchased in 2010 in PEI, treated for the first time then, rear ended by a 17 yr old texting in 2017 no rust anywhere.3. 2013 Civic (replaced the 06) purchased in 2017, started treatment then, no rust anywhere and I crawled under her in Sept, looks brand new.4. Now here it gets impressive. 1985 26ft Coachman RV bought in 2012, 27 years old, never undercoated, got it for a song and did not realize who far along the rust was on the frame and even on the engine block and yes, everywhere else. My wife and I figured we will enjoy the old girl as long as she lasts. We have treated her every year since. You would not recognize her now, black as the Ace of Spades, no rust ANYWHERE. She looks brand spankin new under there and I was just under her changing the oil for the winter last month.I enjoyed your test but I will stick with the Krown.
I don't doubt your results at all. If you can make any concrete conclusion from my testing it's that any treatment is better than no treatment. Thanks for watching.
Thank you for doing this test. This is exactly what I wanted to do this fall and you did it already. Thank you!
This is about the best informational video I've watched on TH-cam - Good work, Repair Geek, and Thank You!
Excellent video. Thank you for spending time doing this. I was almost ready to get Krown coating too.
Excellent test method and analysis. Thank you for educating us to choose the best product. I will go with the CRC Rust Inhibitor.
I was all over the place trying to see what works best for my brand new truck. got crazy tar spray quotes from dealership and this video was the most helpful video ever. now i can just purchase a few sprays, spend a day and save tons of cash. this was an amazing video. thanks so much for sharing this.
Thank you so much for sharing your expert investigation of these products with the most in-depth recap, process videos, detailed scientific method execution and non-bias results. I learned so much and will be going with the LPS 3 for my 2018 Tacoma in Seattle WA. Thanks again, you're the perfect example and leader of sharing quality content and support for people in need :)
Thanks for putting the time in...great study and results. I've been using Fluid Film for a while and your results make me feel better about that.
Same here, i use about 25 gals of Fluid Film a year for my fleet of plow/salt trucks.
this is invaluable, doing God's work my dude
Or, as Norm MacDonald said to Ricky Gervais....."Doing nothing's work" - LOL
Thank you for this test. As the results we're suprising and now I can draw a conclusion of what I'd want to use. 👍
I have to sign in just to give it a like. You save people time and can choose product. This is a great thorough content. Thank you brother
That explains why the Amsoil HD metal protector has held up very well for the last 3 years of Pa winters. Thanks for your hard work!
I have been waiting for a rust proofing shoot out video. Awesome. Thanks.
Thanks for taking the time to do the extended review.. Lots of good information...
I think I am going to spray (On an older vehicle with rust already), Phosphoric Acid to convert the rust to Ferrick Phosphate (black color FePO4) which protects the undercarriage
against more rust, and then, I think I am going to apply a home made rust preventative, under the vehicle, and something inside of the doors, door jams, etc.. Might be two different home made products..
Inside of the doors, jams, etc,, something fluid that will coat and run into crevaces, etc.. I am thinking Antifreeze.. Rust and Corrosion prevention and Lubrication, I think non-conductive, but, will wash off under the vehicle.. I will have to see if something will mix with it, if I use it under the vehicle, but, something that won't come off so easily under the vehicle.. Thinking maybe some Chainsaw bar oil, or along those lines.. I hate to work on something after a coating like that, but, heck.. What's worse.. Tossing a vehicle that is perfectly mechanically sound due to rust, or, getting a little dirtyer when working on it.. I have a 97GMC Z71, I really, really like, but, rust has me getting rid of her.. Perfectly mechanically sound, but, the rust is pretty bad.. Grrr... I live in North Carolina, so, not getting salted every day, but, it doesn't take a daily dose of it.. Just run the roads after a salt application and the road is wet and that shit will get Everywhere... Who knows.. If the Phosphoric Acid does like it should, I might even do some repairs and keep the truck...
Really great job testing single stage products, particularly by mounting them next to the road, ingenious! Would have loved to seen them compared to a properly prepped 3-stage POR-15 as so many people swear by it.
I live in upstate NY winter is about the same as you mentioned. others have said they appreciate this research. I do as well. You're so right in other videos that vehicles rust out before the engine stops. that's why these coatings are so important. your tests are really helpful. thank you!!!
amazing video and dedication man! thank you for this! this is proper testing
Impressive.. this just might be the most informative, useful video I've seen on TH-cam. Bravo!
Great video and thanks for taking the time to review these products!
Thank you so much for this demonstration. I used to use fluid film, but I have switched to Cosmoline RP 342. Hopefully I wont have to apply the cosmoline every year, unlike fluid film. Thanks once again for taking the time to post such an informative video.
I used the Waxoyl products, and am very happy. I also use fluid film to coat my shocks and other miscellaneous areas.
Great video. Service manager at a local repair shop in S. E. Pennsylvania, and we keep gallons of fluid film on the shelf and a gun to spray the frames. Tremendous product. I recommend it because it works!
Man thank you so much for this test! BEST VIDEO OUT THERE! This definitely helped me make up my mind. I'm going to use the first product, cheap easy and awesome results. It's for a classic car restoring the frame and floor pans. I've used it before but I wanted to make sure it was the best for my bucks. Thank you again so much!
First of all you got a awesome channel here. Your videos on the fluid film are the best out there not to mention the helpful tips and detail. I started using fluid film 4 years ago. I use it on everything now. I will share that It does work really well on the bottom side of a mower deck, clean it all up in the fall and spray the deck real heavy and let it sit all winter. my equipment looks brand new underneath. purchased a 2017 toyota 4 runner sr5 and took it to get sprayed with fluid film, best thing we ever did, looks just like your videos. This vehicle does not get used in the winter it is garage kept, but our daily trucks are sprayed and are in the elements 365 days/year and the underside is showing 0 rust. Fluid film works. I would like to see the other brand, my guess it is PFC. Great channel. I for sure subscribed!!!
Nice coating test, always cool to see the test winner. Glad you tested Krown, I am more informed.
The Por15 is not UV stable, most likely developed a small fracture and seperated when pressure washed.
Maybe next time you can paint the other half of test piece with an additional top coat paint as manufacturer recommends.
Keep it up! 👍
Great video! I’ll definitely go for CRC
Good job going thru all that work and testing the products
My appreciation to you. Thanks for all of your hard work to provide this video. I have a 2018 Wrangler Rubicon. I was gonna have it undercoated. Boy am I glad for videos like this. After seeing countless horror stories about Zbart like coating I dodged a bullet! Did not know that shit helps destroy a underbody.
thank you so much for your detailed evaluation on the undercoatings. you saved me alot of money
Great video, thanks for taking the time to share all the info!
Thank you for your research. Im doing Stabil on a 26year old ford. Your vid helped me alot. I hope to do review in a year.
This is amazing! HIGHLY Impressed. Thanks for putting in the time for all our benefit.
The Krown and NHOU are made to saturate the areas inside doors , Rocker panels, quarter panels. You can’t see these areas and that’s where rust will start. By the time you notice rust in these areas it could possible too late and further work will have to be done. If you have to apply it every year it’s worth it. As far as ares you can see like undercarriage and frame you can see these areas on a daily. Wash down these areas with cleaner neutralizer then spray the product of your choice.
Thanks for taking the time and expense to do this test. My local Fluid Film shop, which I have been pleased with, just switched to NH Oil. I was thinking about trying it, but I'll find a new shop instead.
I know this is a couple of years old so how has your experience been so far not going with NH Oil?….I ask because I have been using NH Oil for a few years now and happy with the results so far….but always willing to try something that’s better.
Thanks for this video. Product reviews that have a methodological process to them like this are somewhat of a rarity on youtube. Great work!
Simply outstanding. I too live in NE Ohio, and keeping a car together here is not easy. This will help those of us who like to drive team after the payments are done. Thanks!
Just a note! Krown isn't designed to be stagnant. It's thin so that it creeps into crevices - it's designed for deep penetration into an underbody of a vehicle. It isn't designed for this use case, which is likely why you saw the results you did. It also isn't meant to be sprayed with a straw - they include one for precision, but it's meant to be sprayed with a shutz gun (at a Krown shop) or without a straw onto broad areas like this.
When you spray it, you'll notice it foams like crazy - it's designed to be thin and creep, spread to fill all the cracks, then dry so the rust inhibitors can do their work.
I'm not affiliated with Krown, but I know a lot of the engineers who work there and people who own/work in their shops. They're the most honest and genuine people you'll ever meet. The product works awesomely for what it's designed for, and I've seen it first hand. I'm in snow removal in Ontario, Canada, so I'm out driving as they're salting in the worst sloppy, wet conditions.
Krown does work on bare metal. I used it on my wheel hubs, brand new unpainted steel, for 2 months in salt-spray and slush - not a spec of rust on the hubs coated with Krown - the one hub that I missed was completely coated in rust.
If it can't protect a clean piece of metal hanging from a pole, its not going to protect my frame going down the road.
Works extremely well for bearings in computer fans even better than slick 50 or duralube oil.
James Ryan even in this case, it did protect it. There's a film of rust in some areas. If that's your underbody, you're still safe for decades. The point: this isn't a traditional application of Krown, and the product isn't heated like it is in a shop. You're going to get different results. Besides that, Krown isn't designed for max protection on bare metal. It's designed for max *penetration*, and good protection. If you spray thicker undercoating products, they won't spread the same way. Especially in areas that are already rusty. Meaning you'll still get breakdown of parts in the really rusty areas other products couldn't penetrate to. They have another product they don't sell, as well, T-45-its thicker, for heavier protection. I don't know when they spec that for use in the shop.
Again, I don't work for Krown...nor am I sponsored, paid or anything similar to promote them in any way, shape, or form. I just know my real-world experiences are totally different from this test. I can't explain why, but I know it works.
Creeps alright there is more product falling off your car onto your driveway rather than stays on the vehicle. And FYI Fluid Film does the same thing. It's just Krown's excuse for dropping off.
Al Al that's also incorrect. That is a training issue if you're getting tons of drippage. Krown only needs less than litre of product to protect your whole vehicle. Most shops overspray to make sure everything is covered; but too much can cause excess dripping and attract dirt until all the carrier oil evaporates. Dirt=moisture, so you don't want overspray.
They've also changed the formulation in the shops recently to make Krown significantly thicker, but it is HEATED in the shops for application. This allows it to become very thin when applied and allow all the faster initial creeping to occur, but once it dries it still creeps while being less likely to drip.
Fluid film does the same thing, yeah, but it's simple physics. If one product drips more, it's thinner/lower viscosity/WILL CREEP MORE. It's a balance. Krown will definitely creep more if it drips more. The new formulation will definitely affect that, and bring that balance into a better position than any standard Fluid Film application could, but it's still a choice, an intended trade off whichever way you go.
What the heck took me so long to find your channel? Good stuff! Subbed!
Great video and work on this test.
I have been a Fluid Flim fan for years. Appreciate the video.
Now THAT's what I call a well done comparison review.
I love smell of fluid film....great video for such a young guy...like a Scientist!
Great review, appreciate the unbiased testing
Great video. Very informative. Plan to use CRC Corrosion Inhibitor on my vehicle. Thank you for taking all the time to do this test comparison.
Great testing! The most useful one I've seen. Thank you so much!
This is an excellent test, verging on Project Farm level. My strong suggestion is to do the same test, only with all the pieces rusted, and test the various rust remover/encapsulators first, then the above. Thats going to be the normal way/conditions wherein the products will be used.
First things first, excellent video and I really appreciate the time and effort you t to do this took to do this test.
As a Canadian who's vehicle sees salt yearly, Krown used to be decent before when they had a thicker coating, over the years I've noticed they reformulated it to be thinner and more watered down, IMO it's not effective at all. Not mention the technicians only spray where you can see and drill a bunch of holes in your vehicle frame. I wouldn't recommend it.
From your test's I think I'm going with LPS3 or Fluidfilm.
Subbed! Cheers bud!
Ya older cars don't have much access to the inner panels. So they gotta drill holes to rustproof them then plug it up. Either it you have rust holes or you have drilled access holes and a well taken care vehicle.
Great channel, really like your videos! Just found your channel looking for a JB Weld exhaust repair, and quickly found you have a lot of very useful videos, and very competent advice.
Specifically I’ve recently been looking at undercoating videos in a casual and ongoing search for the way to best protect vehicles in Ohio winters, without seeing your videos…the “algorithm” fails yet again! Anyway, after watching them I found your undercoating videos to be the best, exactly what I been searching for!…THANK YOU!
I loved your testing. Thanks for your hard work very informative.
Awesome comparo man. I’ve used Fluid Film on my Tacoma for ~6 years.... video is spot on in that its great in non-direct water spray areas- inside frame rails, crevices etc- but washes away quickly from wheel wells, front-facing suspension. The crevices are where most salt/moisture hides though, so is sufficient in my moderate salt belt area (coastal RI). Perhaps adding CRC to exposed areas would assist.
Agreed, I like the idea of combining them, as in "high traffic" areas so to speak, maybe you want something a little less likely to come off, so CRC works great, whereas in other areas that don't see as much abuse, and/or if it's an area you might want to access later and not deal with a ton of goo, something that comes off when you need it to is the right pick.
Great test, great videos and channel overall. You got my subscription. I just recently upgraded from aerosolized FF to the gun, compressor and bulk FF, and I'm getting ready to apply this fall.
Nice! Exactly the info I was looking for! Thanks for putting in all the time to make this video and save the rest of us from all that testing!!!
Great video - you put some time and effort into it; well done !
Great comparison! Thank you. I use CRC for undercarriage and frame and Fluid Film for inside the panels.
Sounds like a great combo! How's that working for you?
What’s wrong with using CRC inside the panels?
@@donaldsmith3787
Sorry for the late reply! It's working well except that I sprayed the FF in the panels in the Fall. Come Summer it heats up and runs. A little seeped out of the rear hatch onto the carpet. No biggie though. It's our beater car.
@@JayyBird93
I think that the FF creeps into seams better. The CRC seems thicker and sticks to the undercarriage better. CRC is also more expensive at my local store so I save a little $.
This is a really great video. Thank you so much for doing this test and posting. The one product I wish you had included is Steel It. It’s like POR-15, but is only one step and is supposed to be top notch paint.
Awesome! This is the information I was looking for. Thank you so much for the video.
Krown is one of my favourite products, for inner panel protection because it has an excellent creeping agent rockers cab, corners any sheet metal you need to get into to spray it is best because it will get up and move around, using a thick agent like fluid film is best for frames and water washed areas I use both products with great confidence in conjunction
I don't think it matters too much! As long as it's coated
I used CRC on my Gladiator. Stuff was supper easy to apply. Looks great. Dry. Doesn’t drip. Should do the trick
Excellent test. I got a new car that plan to keep for a long time and saved me a lot of research on undercoating options.
Excellent work!!! Thanks for taking the time to do the research.
I have been having great luck with Krown. I started using it with a vehicle that was already 4 years old before first application, and subjected to very harsh NY state winters (read SALT!).All I previously have done was a Springtime wheels off cleaning, and paint touch up of mainly suspension components. I started having Krown done 3 years ago. Just the undercarriage. I checked how well it lasted, and protected a year later on a friends hoist. It was 80% still on everything, except areas that are constantly blasted with water, salt, and sand which is used on roads around here.
I have been having it re-applied every year since. I pre-clean with purple power full strength, and pressure wash the undercarriage before having Krown re-applied. I don't have to do the cleaning, I'm just OCD, and like to start fresh each year. For the $50 they charge to do just the undercarriage, and the protection I get, I don't see how I can beat the performance/price. Actually I just had it done yesterday. My 7 year old Toyota Rav 4 still has a rust free undercarriage. If I had a vehicle lift, I would do my own treatment, but I would probably still use Krown.
Krown also has a salt eliminator that I spray on after winter to neutralize salt deposits which seams to work well too.
I hope You are right as here in Eastern Europe the Krown is kinda only available option out of those what that video was talked about and I'm gonna do it on next week for my car. Also I am very surprised about price 50USD.. here is like 179EUR (almost 200USD) :S
@@KasparOnTube VAT.
Everything in Europe is more expensive because of VAT.
Thanks for this video! I've been looking for a video just like this! Sounds like I'll be going with CRC!
How did the crc hold up? I'm planning on using this stuff too.
@@giancarlopenaherrera7415 I wish I could say I have gotten that far! 🤣 I have been looking at a company called Lizard Skin out of Tucson. I'm going to likely use them instead. I'm doing this on a project car so I don't have as tight as a time-line as I'd like.
Thanks man, we really appreciate all this hard work
Great video. I'm in NW Ohio and have been getting my vehicles "hot oiled" for years. Have had different guys use various products on my vehicles (from new motor oil mixed with STP, to Chainsaw bar oil, to used motor oil with STP). The chainsaw bar oil seemed to "stick" the best. I swear by it, and have it done every year. My 97 F350 is nearly rust free. Anyhow, I picked up a Tacoma recently, and since it was too late for my guy to coat it, I picked up 6 cans of the Stabil Rust Stopper and soaked her good. It worked pretty well, stuck on good through the winter. From your video, I'm gonna check out that LPS3; looks like some tough stuff. Again, great video!!
Thanks for all your work Cosmoline all the way
That's what I'm thinking :)
Worked well for every Russian gun I've ever bought
A slow seep from the rear main seal has always done the trick for my jeep. Those OEM cork seals seeped just enough to never actually get low on oil between changes, and it never left a drip on the pavement, but it coated the undercarriage quite nicely up front. A brush dipped in used motor oil will make quick work of any dry spots during oil changes.
Oddly extremely smart... cant rust if it’s covered in grease
@@johnnymatias3027Its an old trick that works along with cow shit
the thoughtfullness of the test is so good I liked and subscribed
Excellent, going with with the CRC wax-film. Heard great things about these and the video confirmed it.
Keep this test going, I want to see those pieces in 2, 5, and 10 years!
Yes, I asked the same thing. Actually, it would be great if there was some safe way to attach the pieces to the wheel wells of a delivery vehicle like a FedEx or UPS and see how it does. Real world exposure is always best.
Two year test would be best - I love the test, but would like also to see an old truck used which already has rust on it. Control part, front driver wheel well, and rocker panel and elbows where the rocker panels meet the wheel wells, do not spray anything. On passenger side, use CRC front wheel well and elbow down to the rocker panel. On back wheel well, use something else and compare. Only prep would be a very thorough power washing of the areas and drying it out before application. Same for the control side, power wash that side as well.
Note any washing in the winter. In April check out how each area is doing.
I just sprayed my rusty undercarriage with the StaBil rust stopper. On a 25 y/o GM vehicle that was never treated before. Will post a follow up TH-cam video next spring.
@@missingremote4388 Thanks. Did you do much prep prior to spraying? Tell us what you did if you can.
@@joq702 my frame had surface rust mostly. Not flakes of rust. Removed a few scale spots with a ballpeen hammer; (but ignored most).
Wire brushed frame to almost bare metal. Using a wire wheel on an electronic drill to remove dirt and rust/dust from frame. Additional wooden handle wire brushes for areas hard to reach.
Then, used an air hose attached to a air compressor to blow out as much dust as quickly as I could.
Then spay a coat. I sprayed 3 stripes along a frame rail. Then used a medium/small paint brush to smear the lines and get full coverage
- I was going to wash it but didn't
- no rags, or clean wipe down ( I've only driven by this truck 300 miles in the last 6 years) but keep it running, clean & registered/insured.
- really: *no prep* is required for StaBil rust stopper to work. Spray it on top of painted metal and it will stop rust.
All in favor
I have used the same Krown dealer for the last 30+ years on 7 new vehicles. Not one ever shown any rust and the city uses a lot of salt on the roads during winter and spring.
I was rather surprised by the OP's results, but I do respect and appreciate his rather scientific approach.
I agree with your observation Phil, and can attest to similar solid results with Krown for my 5 vehicles over 30+ years. A key point for me is that some products coat instead of penetrate internal areas where rust often begins and works its way out. Exterior coating alone with a product that is very viscous (thick) is a concern for me given it can trap moisture and rust. Products have to be thin enough to easily penetrate, flow in areas to displace water. One thing about Krown though is that you MUST be religious about it, not miss annual treatments. Great business model for them I suppose. Based on personal experience I am happy with it. Couple personal observations I offer about Krown... One, Krown seems to protect electrical stuff internally too (switches and wiring buried in doors cavities and such), which a general undercoating would not cover. Two, given it is an annual application I recommend it be applied in warmer weather so it can flow, penetrates better. Cheers.
Yep, 27 year old car, not one spec of rust in canadian winters.
Hey man. This was a great informative video and I appreciate you putting these products the test. My only problem is this. Not everybody out there has a vehicle that is this close to these coupons as far as prep goes. Some people have vehicles with rust on them and for obvious reasons you can’t bead blast everything under a vehicle. I think it would be a good video to show similar pieces with rust already on them, Then using like a scraper or a wire wheel to get all of the impurities that you can with those options available. Then try these products and maybe a couple extras that people are mentioning in the comments and give it another go.
Great video! Thanks for taking the time to do this. Very helpful for us in the rust belt.
Should have given corrosion x heavy duty a try, its similar to fluid film, we use it on our outboards and boat trailers in the saltwater here in FL
Like to have seen "Wool Wax" included in the test, it's similar to Fluid Film, but thicker, they both are lanolin based.
I would think Fluid film for an initial coating for the thin consistency and small gap filling, and Wool Wax for subsequent touch ups for durability.
WoolWax FTW
This is the review I was searching for. Thanks!
I had an appointment booked in a few days to get a $300 Krown coating put on and I cancelled it because of your research, thanks man you saved me money and my car
Thanks for sharing! We need to know this stuff, here in NEOhio!
SW ohioan here - well said!
I see tons of rusted out cars & trucks driving around every day and we don't even get half the snow you guys do. The salt is a killer!
Yep bout to get some crc for that good Cincinnati salt!
Rust Bullet - I’ve used it for years and swear by it. It requires NO prep and doesn’t fade under UV. It goes on thick, and is almost impossible to scratch off.
A unique one step process with two united states patents
Applies directly over rust UV resistant will not fade or crack
Simple one step process, little or no preparation required
No topcoat needed
Brush, roll, or spray on
Covers approximately 400 square feet, per gallon, per coat, depending on the porosity and texture of the substrate. A minimum two coat application is required.
Directly from the site, they keep saying one step process then little or no prep and in the end two coats required. Sure is hard to believe a manufacture when they simply sugar coat everything. Makes me leery about the UV also since it said resistant.
Thanks a lot for the video. this made my browsing for undercoating easier.
Very helpful video.
Just bought a new truck from a dealer ship and they tried to sell me an undercoating. I am an engineer by trade and asked some material and application questions and the sales men could not answer them. He is going to find out from the service department what kind of undercoating and rust prevention they are selling. After researching and making inquires of my own it may not matter what it is. Input cost of these products is drastically cheaper then the one being offered by the dealership with the same if not better results yielded.
Thanks for taking the time to put this video together, for using good scientific practices in your experiment, and for creating an effective method for communicating the results.
Try another test with some Eastwood products. Thanks for this video.
My understanding is that POR 15 is meant to be applied directly to rust, with some minor prep first. The rough texture of the rust helps the POR 15 grip and stay applied
Not like directly. POR has special set, where you first do metal prep (phosphatic acid) and then undercoating.
Good luck with that, look up por15 rust videos and see what happens
No undercoating works as effectively as lanolin based products especially wool wax or surface shield
@@LumenChaser what are you saying? No effective undercoating?
@@kovalenkoihor4325 I said nothing works as effectively as lanolin undercoatings meaning lanolin products are the best protectant in the industry for salty roads and this has been proven so if you don’t want your vehicle to rust out use wool wax or surface shield.. wool wax also sells HV version which is much thicker so it doesn’t wash off but still stays wet as it’s lanolin based, it is used for High wash areas
Yes, “testing” by ignoring all of the manufacturer’s directions is pretty irresponsible.
I've used Rustoleum Rust Reformer black. Tested it on some rusty tools and wheelbarrow. The wheelbarrow was well used this summer and paint held up with no rust forming and no scratches on paint.
Cheers for this awesome video! I'm shopping for a used van, and this is my go-to resource for rust-prevention products.
I've used the Cosmoline RP-342 on all 3 of my work vehicles. All are prestine and rust-free going on year #4. Coatings stays intact on wheel wells too. Great video! Thanks for the comprehensive review.
Yes this stuff seems the ticket, clear winner. Any downsides?
Dan E Garner it’s hard to get off?
Great reviews. Was very surprised by the performance or lack of by krown. I've been using fluid film for a few years now with excellent results. Some of the other products look interesting but I think I'll stick with what I know works. Fluid film is an amazing product. Just wish it didn't wash off so easily.
That's why it needs to be re-applied annually.
Note: cost varies, but $150.00 U.S. for medium size vehicles.
Such an informative video. Thanks for helping us all!
Thank you so much for this video, it has helped guide me into making a final decision!
Hi, first of all thanks for your time and effort. I however have a story about POR 15. I have a old 4x4 camper van that I converted to run on propane, I purchased 2 old propane tanks, one was 25 gal and the side tank was 17 gal. I sandblasted both tanks used Metal Clean & Metal Ready then applied two coats POR 15. It has been 18 years and you can use soap and water to wash the tanks and they both look like they were just done accept for all the little stone dents on the rear tank, nothing went through the coating, just small dents. So my point is this product is amazing if you do all the prep. Yes all the prep take time, now divide that time by how many years you do not have to do anything again. My idea on fixing things is, fix it right once if you can and never have to do it again.
POR15 is a paint system not an undercoating. Sort of not applied and tested as paint in this test.
I have the Amsoil stuff it works great.
This is an awesome video! I really appreciate it!
I've been using the rustoleum stuff on my e30, over the original undercoating. Mainly just using it like a paint for appearance.
Any chance of doing a test with a part that is already slightly rusted? Lots of these products claim to stop rust that's already started.
YES! Please do this
Yes... what can we do if you have some light surface rust starting.......
Agreed. I'd also like to see how ACF-50 compares
All in favor
Agreed. My car is over 10 years old. I want to know that if I apply one of these products, will it "seal in" the rust and help it spread like a rubberized coating, or will it passivate it Fluid Film? The CRC and other products look impressive, but for now I'll play it safe with FF until I see the test on existing corrosion.
Thank You Repair Geek ... for all the time, money & effort put forth here .... I redo Fluid Film on my semi & pick-up every fall ..... really fights the battle against road salt & brine ..... I wish " we " would go back to sanding ONLY ....... Let the people who must speed in the winter crash ... the Darwinian Effect will prevail ..............................
AMEN BROTHER!!!!!!!!!!
Nice video, I love the rust oleum its really great stuff when used properly like you did here! I hate that lot of people put a bad word out about it causing more rust etc., because in reality it works great and if it is causing more rust or whatever then it’s because the surface wasn’t prepared correctly or it was not applied correctly. Most of the time it’s because the surface was not prepared correctly, I see it all the time where people just go and spray it right over their rusty frame...
Repair Geek
One thing to note about NH Oil is the difference between the black & the clear. The black is tinted because it has graphite mixed in. Other than that awesome comparison and video. 👍