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I worked on the 'Defender line' for 20 years, about 19 of those welding the right hand number one outrigger (thats the one right behind the right front wheel) if it has one continuous weld both sides along its seam, I welded it lol. Your 90 chassis has a higher carbon content than the previous boneshakers (leaf springs).
In Australia, many of us use fish oil - aka Fisholeum - which is actually a fish-lipid / acetone emulsion. The acetone keeps the fish oil super runny, allowing it to flow into all the nooks and crannies. However, the acetone then flashes off, leaving just the fish oil, which eventually skins over and forms an impervious layer. It stinks. Quite a lot, actually. But then it settles and doesn’t smell at all. We don’t salt our roads here but I do have older Italian cars, so I can attest the fish oil’s efficacy; treated areas do not rust.
Once rust has started it's almost impossible to stop. One of the best treatments is to apply gear oil in the same way the Lanoguard was applied. At 9:49 in the video the pinion leak demonstrates how effective an antioxidant gear oil is. Some mix with grease and spray heated to reduce viscosity this method is commonly used in Canada where salt is used on reads.
Treatment SHOULD start at the factory but we all know it does not happen. Chain saw bar oil thinned with white spirit soaks into rusty metal. However it polymerises locking out additional layers. Something that remains sticky is a better option. Repeat every autumn (fall).
Treat existing rust with a wire brush followed by Dinitrol RC900 rust converter. Then Dinitrol ML on the underbody surfaces followed by Dinitrol 4941 black to give it a factory look finish. Then do cavities and box sections with Dinitrol ML 1000.
Removing rust back to clean metal and applying a good quality durable finish is by far the best method but obviously not practical/virtually impossible in many places without completely dismantling the vehicle. Failing that, a good rust convertor is your best shot. I've had good results so far with Aqasteel which not only converts rust to hard stable substrate but forms a protective barrier which can be left unpainted if need be.
I have a 2004 bmw e46 m3. I re applied my Lanoguard today as it’s now been just over a year since first application, the tub I bought did 2 applications which was great. I found as I pressure washed and cleaned the car the other day underneath it was still beading water, some orange rust had became visible again in parts as it’s maybe wore off over the past year but that being said it isn’t ideal doing on axle stands but it’s so easy to apply. My car doesn’t do a great deal of miles either roughly 2/3k at most per year, I think I’ll just do it every year regardless, cost, ease of application and finished look is fantastic.
Used Lanoguard for the first time on my 300tdi last summer - previous to that for five years have used Dinitrol. I live in the Highlands and probably the most salted roads in Britain. Rust comes back on both products and the truck needs to be treated annually. Don't know what to use this summer, but I am edging towards Dinitrol. I dont think that the lanoguard application reaches all the box cavities and as we know, they rust from the inside-out. I know after using Dintrol, though, I haven't needed to do any welding!
No wax will be effective on top of rust. To spray on a new vehicle’s chassis and underbody paintwork, inside and out, it is very effective at sealing the paint for long term protection. The other major benefit can be found by stopping mud and salty road spray from getting to mud traps, such as the rear crossmember and into holes in the side of the chassis adjacent to the tyres. Use grommets and rubber silicone adhesive for the holes and galvanised tin sheet to create mud guards for the rear crossmember. I did all this on my 1984 110 HiCap which spent its 22 year life literally in the cow shìt. However I avoided submerging the chassis in water of any kind as there was almost always a drier route that could be taken. The chassis, including the rear crossmember was almost like new when the vehicle was mechanically worn out and recycled. Only the mid outriggers were getting a bit crusty at that stage. Currently I have two Ford Rangers, a 2014 and a brand new one. Both have been thoroughly treated with a Bilt Hamber wax from new and holes blocked off in the wheel spray areas of the chassis. The 2014 looks great still, where others run in similar conditions by friends are red with rust by their third birthday. I intend to spray some oil on the 2014 soon to re-activate and soften the original wax coating and provide further protection to see it through to its 20th birthday if diesel is still a thing by then.
I have tried many products over the years to protect both new and classic cars and Waxoyle has proven to be the most effective for me. For example, we have a 1996 Range Rover and a 1971 long wheel base Land Rover which are used all year round where the roads are salted in winter. Neither show any signs of rust nor have they ever been welded. In fact, the underside of my old Series 3 looks better than under your Defender as it stands now. Applying Waxoyle is a messy process but once the chassis is thoroughly cleaned, panels and chassis cavities spray injected, chassis and underside components sprayed, it is not difficult to maintain with a little diligence. Periodically, and especially with the Land Rovers, I will scrape and clean any patches that may have rubbed or worn off and re-treat with a brush. So, I certainly recommend trying Waxoyle next time you treat your Defender. Good luck.
I did my Mitsubishi pick up underneath with about 5 cans of motorcycle chain lube which has a solvent in it which helps it penetrate and spread until it then dries to a fairly thick / robust layer of grease / oil and it has been very , very effective !!!! and pretty cheap ...
Hi Driftwood, may I ask which motorcycle chain lube cans you have used? I plan to do an ice blasting upfront to remove all coatings first. Asking for my Jimny ;-)
I purchased enough LANOGUARD for a Lorry as I wanted to cover Defender 110 and a Delorean. The Defender I did 1/2 of the rear cross member and I can see no sign of it less than a year later. The Delorean Chassis was a full restoration and it was superbly sticky/tacky when done but again I see no sign of the Lanoguard now. They also say you need to treat it EVERY year, if you did that I guess it would be ok but that is a big ask to do each year.
I don't know, is it a big ask? I have just done my car now (it's a Honda Accord and they rust pretty bad if left alone) and I'm prepared to redo it every year. I don't believe subsequent years are as bad as the first time you do it, I've Nutrarust 661 treated it first and then Lanoguard, so it's now just a case of getting under the car every year and topping up. Also gives you the incentive to get under your car and 'inspect' it, which in my case, was something I hardly ever did.
I find it's definitely best to give it an early top up after the first time you use it, maybe after just 6 months. That way the second layer really thickens up the first layer. After that, annually should be enough but it does of course depend on what sort of usage you do. The beauty of it is it is so easy to apply and it only takes an hour to do a Land Rover chassis inside and out.
I agree with Graham on the 6 months respray. Looking at your rusty bits dare I say you didn’t get as good a coverage you thought ? My 90 is 2011 with 127k miles and it’s totally black underneath a year since I last applying LG
@@thedoctorsgarage Yep, because it remains sticky subsequent coats stick to the underlying coats so the more coats you give it the thicker the protection. You only did the one coat so it's inevitable you have a few areas showing rust after a year. Retreat the whole lot and maybe again a few months later and you should be fine. It's just general road spray, stones, etc that abrade it so again, the thicker the better. After you've done maybe 4 treatments over a period of time you should get less and less abrasion. Obviously the inside of teh chasis is not subject to abrasion but I always top it up. After all, it's so easy on a Landy, you don't even have to jack it up!
@@markriley2733 Yep, the problem is that with the first treatment the product is runny so you can only spray so much on. Once it's 'gone off' after a week it'll take a second coat happily. My Landy (a 1979 Series 3) is all black on the chassis having had a few coats over a period of a year and seems to stay nice and black and waxy to the touch with enough thickness to prevent abrasion. With the Lanogard wand it's also easy to do the door frames, A posts (especially bottom half near the door hinges) and bulkhead. I drilled a few access holes (3/8") for access and sealed them with removable rubber plugs.
I used Lanoguard after seeing it being used on videos from Australia. I pressure washed the chassis on my 90, removed all the mud, used a rust converter on the rusty bits and coated with Dinatrol. After that I coated well with Lanoguard and that combination seemed to hold up well with no new rust. I then reapplied each autumn. It’s certainly not as nasty to use as the petroleum based chemicals but the car / you do smell like a sheep for a while.
My ocd mate did a full chassis off rebuild. He had his chassis acid dipped and treated then painted it the same silver as the body (blenhiem iirc). He regularly washed and polished the car, even underneath. He had to continually use touch up paints because it still rusted. After 10 years he was using waxoyl and still ended up patching the chassis. He got fed up fighting rust and sold it when the bulkhead started to go around the windscreen and door hinges.
I have always used Waxoil and from this evidence I will continue to do so. Have just used Lanogaurd on my 100hp but will revert to Wax oil. Its also a fraction of the price. I would get some rubber bungs into the holes on your chassis
Lanoguard in my opinion isn’t the best product but it’s probably because a lot of people don’t prepare their vehicle properly before they apply it and they don’t realise that it’s something you do have to repeat every few months ( they say 6 months but with the new road Salt/Brine solution they use I found 3 months was better ). I own a few LandRovers and 1 is under seal the old fashioned way. 1 is Lanoguard. 1 is Waxoyl. The key to any of them being successful is in the Detail :- A Proper under Power Wash with a Steam Cleaner ( not cold water ). Allowed to Dry. Rust removal and then treatment. Allowed to Dry. Finally the Treatment. So from start to finish about a week and you need somewhere warm and dry for the vehicle to Dry out completely between each phase of the process. Personally for me:- Waxoyl is No.1. Then Underseal. Lanoguard is last I’m afraid but that’s my opinion 🤷♂️.
Spot on comments there. Top up the sharp edges twice a year is what I've done for decades. Tried all products. The specialist ones are way overpriced. Spray chain grease is cheapest and most effective ⚠️
Great video and content. As a landrover owner for more years than i can remember is that all these products that work on the visual outside of the chassis is fine but the demise of a chassis is the corrosion inside the chassis, basically rotting from the inside out, due to to water/condensation that cant escape, mud build up, etc. Thats why its so important to try and halt the corrosion inside and apply your preferred wax.
Dinitrol all the way 👍🏻 used dinitrol cavity wax and it gets into every single little area you could possibly imagine as it spreads slowly…great for a vehicle that has some early stages of rust on the chassis.
I’ve used Lanoguard on my disco and it definitely helped slow the rust. What is good about lanoguard is you see the corrosion. Some rust paints coat the area and as you look under you think, that looks good but under the heavy paint your body or chassis is being eaten. I’m going to give rust bullet a go this week. My disco is a couple years off 20 so who knows how long more she will last. Rust bullet if applied correctly looks like a good job. The one thing about land rovers and early discos was that they are very solid. Compare the body and chassis to a Land Cruiser and there is no comparison.
I'm not too impressed with the results, I personally think you would have been better using Waxoyl, you can also do inside cross members with the wand they supply. You will find it lasts an awful lot longer than 1 year.
Correct , waxoyl is the best , I treated a car , after welding new cross members and body mounting points to the chassis in 1992 , it still looks like it was done yesterday , zero rust .
I used Waxoyl on motorcycle mudguards. It dried up and fell off. Ordinary grease would have been better. My car rear axle had been waxoyled. The rust was horrendous it literally flaked off and took the waxoyl layer with it. Utterly useless IMO.
@@chunkyfecalbreakfast Hopefully people can read the label , I does say rust protection not rust remover or inhibitor. Waxoyl is the best protection for new or clean metal , there's no arguing about that , only an idiot would think to use a sealer over rust , or a cowboy trying to hide something.
Waxoyl is expensive, needs a compressor to apply thick enough - and dries and fails after a year or two. I think the idea of lanolin is that it can be easily sprayed by hand and redone where necessary quickly and simply before each winter.
After removing most of any rust, not so easy inside the chassis, I spray rust converter inside and paint it outside, which turns the surface rust black and gives it a protective coating. Followed with some paint in accessible places, then I use Waxoyl with some added new ep90 gear oil, so it never really dries and to reduce cracking. Time will tell, but removing any flaking and loose rust is a must. Most of the work is in the preparation pre waxoyl.
Your steering box is leaking from the seal where the new drop arm is fitted, you can see it drip oil from the ball joint as it runs down from the steering box to the lowest point when you were looking at the front diff, and the dampness you put your finger in on the diff housing is the power steering fluid spraying back onto the diff when your driving. You may have damaged the seal when fitting the new drop arm. As for the lanoguard id say its not done a good job, i use the old tried and tested method of old engine oil mixed with some grease and sprayed on with an air gun, do it every year and get plenty inside the chassis so it runs out and you'll not have too much to worry about, and its free as we all have old oil from your annual oil change.
That's so old school!! Many years ago, decades, I was told by my great late friend that you can simply use old engine oil to protect your car, and after spending the best part of 5 days doing just the front of my car with Lanoguard, the engine oil idea came back to me. It's so much cheaper. My only issue is that I don't have a spray gun and compressor and brushing it on won't cut it (too many nooks and crannies).
Hi Marcus. I have a 1997 Defender 300 Tdi and have removed a lot of rust over recent years. I’ve tried most treatment options, BUT not Lanoguard, and I’m still looking for the perfect solution! I remember the video of you treating it last year but not in detail. My first thought is that preparation is the key and pressure washing the chassis alone is not the answer. You need to remove as much rust as you can before starting any treatment. I use a hammer to get rid of the large flaky bits, then a paint scraper, then a wire brush. Give the area a wipe over with degreaser or similar, let it dry and then 2 coats of Jenolite Rust Converter. After that some etch primer or red oxide and finally a coat of Hammerite Smooth or Satin black. It’s a costly exercise and very time consuming but seems to work.
I'd never recommend those swirling type wand extensions from Karcher but I find them pretty effective at removing loose rust and loose paint from chassis'. From there I use Bilt Hamber Dynax which IMO is a far superior, if outwardly similar product to Lanoguard.
I've just Lanoguarded my car and I didn't pressure wash it down, simply because I don't have one. I know they recommend that, but really, I did such a good job with just a wirebrush and scraper (absolute must!) that I'm questioning whether you really do need to use a pressure washer?
I would say that the Lanoguard has not really done a great job (nothing against the product personally). As someone experienced with rust proofing (I do have an 27 year old Jaguar!), a regular annual application of underseal does quite a good job at keeping the rust at bay. At risk areas such as subframes are best wire brushed clean, rust treated and then an application of POR15 (or similar) - and that generally makes things pretty bullit proof. Even so, it is not good enough to just spray it on - subframes need removal and parts dismantled to ensure everything is clean and painted.
Having used several anti rust fluids, I think that Lanoguard has a place in rust proofing suspension and steering components, but for box sections and chassis, Waxoyl or Dinotrol are much more effective, especially when used with a proper applicator off an air compressor rather than the plastic hand pump applicators provided in kits.
I used it on my Range Rover. It appears to never dry and the chassis now has a coating of dirt stuck to it. I have used it on internal panels where it will creep into seems and folds in the metal. I think that this is a better use for it.
I thought Lanoguard would last better than that but maybe as some have said a 6 month recoat first time around a good idea. I've just had mine Dinitrol treated again and pleased with how that's protecting my now 20 year old Defender.
What treatment did you apply? I just used some 3125 on my Alfa GTV, I've had this stuff on the shelf for about 15 years, added a bit of white spirit, left it in the sun and worked perfectly. I have some heavier stuff I could spray over but would prefer not to cover and use permanent stuff so I can actually see how it's holding up.
Really helpful! It really depends on the conditions you drove it as well. All in all I think it did it’s job and as any home treatment there is some learning curve. Subscribed!
Great update cheers. I plan to use Dinitrol penitrator rust proofing cavity wax on the back of my 90 my cross member then seal it with Lanoguard grease. To stop the crud I’ve bought some Gwyn Lewis mud shields. Hope this helps cheers.
Buzzweld for me, all day every day - even have some better budget options than lanoguard - like UP for example. Found that lanoguard attracted mud to my chassis and was a nightmare to wash off. Wont be using it again.
I have a xj Cherokee and which I want to keep, it’s had ome2.5 lift and Polly bushes throughout, paired with 0 offset wheels and som bfgs, I was looking at dinatrol but is quite expensive and still needs re coating every couple of years so I’m thinking about lanoguard , make it like a yearly routine? And I’m figuring it will start to build up in time especially if I perhaps do it 6monthly, I’m thinking that more frequent treatments are actually good as you are more aware of what’s going on rather that forgetting for 2yesrs and simply hoping for the best , so yes , I think this is the way forward, let’s see how it goes!!
I have just used lanoguard on my Nissan Navara (2012). I have used waxoyl in the past and found the lanoguard much easier and actually less messy! I have no special ramps or lifts or other equipment to get under my truck, so it is always bit of a chore but I can cope with the smell better than the tar like blobs I had before! Also the fact that I didnt need to use my dads pressure system to deliver it was also a huge bonus. I will be doing it again in lanoguard after the winter - so twice a year - just in case I missed some! in reality it is probably more about what equipment you already have which will deliver the stuff to the chassis. Early days, but in terms of application, lanoguard wins out for me.
Sadly with the D40 Navaras you really need to pre-emptively treat them to stop it happening in the first place :( the only way to save them really is to get both inside and out the chassis rails with something like a zinc coating :(
Lanoguard is all hype & advertising,, it's easy to do and I've tried it but it's really not that much than doing nothing other than easing your conscience for a while when it looks clean initially. if you want to protect exposed chassis from road spray & debris you need to clean it up properly, remove scale & wash off salts then use something like Dinitrol 4941 or Bilt Hamber UB for exposed external chassis and 3125 or Dinitrol UC or similar for internal sections.. Lanoguard really just covers it up for a short time & washes away with road spray. I'm Not sponsored, I tried it but found Dinitrol & Bilt Hamber are miles better products esp if you take time under your vehicle prepping why not do it properly for a little more effort & ££ it will look a lot better after years than this.
Great video. Thank you. I just finished applying Lanoguard to my 4x4. Easy to use but the spray nozzles all blocked up. Lucky I managed to finish the job. Has anyone got any tip re: nozzles?
Clean the gun through with warm soapy water or the lano cleaning product they sell.. The guns are prone to playing up, I warmed the lano up in hot water for a while prior too.
Be interested to know when you do a 2nd treat how a appears 6 months later especially in the areas that have shown surface rust again after the first year. Maybe test those areas with the grease for added protection.
I drive a 2006 XC70 P2 / Car is a fishing car, so often ends up in fields and grotty tracks. Cannot emphasise the importance of a full clean and de rust prior to application. I cleaned off rust and then applied Vactan painted on to hard use areas, then over painted that with smoothrite, once all that was done it got Lanoguard. As I venture into the car doing various jobs, ie panels off into the crevices, they get cleaned out and a quick spray of lanoguard. I’m old school and always used the heavy black paint on stuff, lano is really easy to apply.
I used Lanogaurd for the first time on my TD5 when we had the first hot spell and had a good few weeks of warm weather. New springs shocks fitted and while the old ones were out a good clean , de-rust , rust converter, paint , left to dry and then a good going over with the Lanogaurd. I thought it was never going to dry and didn’t use the Lany for over two weeks! It has dried to an extent but feels very tacky and road dust , grit is sticking to it. The shiny new springs and shocks have gone dull but I wanted to try it on something that had never seen rust!! I’m interested to see how it is going to look after the winter. The chassis and axles look nice and black and are not coated in thick crap that you don’t know what is going on underneath the mess. Just a quick pointer for wax oil, my friends Defender has just failed its MOT on a rotten rear X member !!!! So called wax oiled from the dealer less than 2 years ago and advertised as being so from new every year .
I've come to watch your video because I've just done my car (well, just the front) and I haven't seen how you did yours but for just the front of my front car I used the entire 2 litres!!! Which I know is crazy but it was what I chose to do and is now drenched in the stuff. Before that I used Nutrarust 661 and before that I scraped and wirebrushed over two days. Maybe you put too thin a coat on? And maybe you need to go over it again, more regularly (especially as your car is more utilitarian and likely to get a lot of exposure to water/mud etc)?
Whatever happened to good 'ol 'Ziebarting' My 1980 TR7 was Ziebarted from new (ish) and has never had any welding, always dry stored. Only last year I went to town on the back underneath to smarten it up & refresh. (I know Ziebart is a brand of waxoyling)
I did my Discovery 4 with it, not overly impressed, it seems to stay sticky , I left it for 4 days to dry and still sticky, I would use it inside the chassis but not on the outside.
I found your review to be realistic , i enjoyed your video. My personal advice would be to wash and treat the rusty areas, then paint them with a high quality chassis black like Eastwoods or POR 15 Chassis Black, then use a protection oil film over the top. I think in the areas that appear to have not been protected that well by the lanoguard, try Dinitrol ML you can get it in a spray can as well as undercoating dispenser. It has more substance and remains thicker. Ive got a Toyota that i treated 3 years ago, its still sticky and protecting. The bottom line is i dont think 1 product is the answer but multiple. Corroless is by far the best rust protection paint ive used on parts that are rusted, i use this then the chassis black, then the waxes/oils over to bullet proof it!
Have a look at Buzzweld UP or their new one which i think is called chassis guard. UP goes hard, and is clear so you can see what is going on. I wasn't a fan of lanoguard, attracted mud to my chassis and was a real pain to clean off. Really like the more 'permanent' buzzweld solutions like RE and WAR, but their budget options are on point too.
Same thoughts Hicksy, used it on my mpv and used the Moto grease mostly on subframe but looks bad with debris, dust etc stuck all over it, looked at buzzweld for my newly purchased (mint) Jeep so still researching..of course Bilt Hamber worth a mention too.. All in the prep as they say..👍
Honestly, if you want to protect your front outriggers and rear crossmember take a look at the inner arch guards that Gwyn Lewis supply, keeps the weather and stones off both areas, protects your footwell as well, not even expensive, Tersbaek TV have a video on here showing instalation. As for crossmember paint, try Jotun Jotamastic, it's epoxy and is made for boat hulls, it's really forgiving where prep is difficult and sticks like mad ,can be brushed or rollered, being an epoxy it won't let rust spread underneath if chipped , just done a 130 chassis with it, very impressed. I don't reckon much of the Lanoguard, you'd be better off cleaning the chassis, using a good rust killer and either painting and Dinatrol or just Dinatrol, my 93 chassis looks better and I just touch that up with waxoyl when needed. 👆
Jotun Jotamastic gets my vote. I started using it two years ago and so those areas I treated first have now been through two winters and are still rust free with no additional treatments in that time. I also used it on the sump and rocker cover of my Golf and it seems unaffected by 2 years of exposure to oil and heat. If it is used on areas exposed to UV then a top coat of paint is required.
Just watching your video about lanoguard. Think Youd be better off using Bilt Hamber spray on wax. I used it on my Land Cruiser and it does not come off. Gives a really nice satin black wax finish.
The problem with all these proprietary finishes is exactly the same they are a finish and finishes have to be reapplied and that has to be upon a prepared surface. It is the nature of the problem. That is why on working vehicles for my lengthy lifetime many people sprayed old engine oil underneath. It is not pretty but it penetrates , does not wipe off, gathers dirt but has a residual function when hosed off and can absorb another similar coat without having to revert to bare metal. It is also relatively cheap can be done at home with a cheap paint sprayer or paraffin sprayer but will take some surface preparation of the ground you are working on. If you want your Rover as a city car probably not for you but if you have a working machine of any sort a view still worth considering. Remember, vintage and classic vehicles survive best in areas where oil coating protected them. The advantage of the type of products recommended is not for the customer but for the manufacturer of the patented item and process.
With rust proofing it’s simple the more you put in the more you get out of it but I think for the amount of effort it takes to apply you can’t really beat lanogaurd it’s almost enjoyable! re applying is also just as straight forward. Un like alot of traditional products.
I've been looking at Lanoguard and trying to decide if it's worth trying it on my, erm........LandCruiser....Ooer Mrs!😂I Waxoyled it when I bought it 18 years ago and wish I hadn't bothered. These days I treat any surface rust with Aquasteel which, so far, seems to be doing a good job. I also use aerosol motorcycle chain lube in exposed areas. It's cheap, transparent, sticks like STAB and doesn't harden and flake of like some products do. I might try out the Lanoguard inside the chassis rails/members.
Everyone has their own view on what works best, but I think it all depends on how you treat your Defender (mud wading, stream crossing etc) and how well you maintain it after extreme condition trips. If it is just used for general day to day driving, most treatments will be fine.
The lanoguard doesn't look to bad, but I'd definitely say it needs a top up after every 6 months. Road salt & mud will strip most spray on protective materials.
What was the product from buzzweld you used. Love the finish on the cross member. Think I’ll be going with the lanoguard on both my defender and t4 dub. #moneypits
Back in 2010, I bought a 97 300tdi 90 county from a "horsey lady" in the Midlands. I must say, she was into horses big time, and the underside of the Landy was absolutely encrusted with ...errr horse manure (to be polite) . It had the customary delaminating of the crossmember so I feared for the state of the chassis. No need to though, after I had bribed the kids to jetwash underneath....it was like new..! Even had a couple of stickers intact from the factory. For 13 years the horse muck had kept it mint, apart from the crossmember which needed replacing. So I pondered the idea of using the stuff to protect my beloved. .... but opted instead for a galvanised chassis and stainless steel exhaust on my latest steed.
Any product washes off. We've tried them all. You have to top up all the sharp edges twice a year depending what conditions the vehicle is exposed to. We now use a chain grease spray can which is just £6 by Granville. My 2003 Rover 75 has 210k miles and still clean underneath. 😊
After removing most of any rust, not so easy inside the chassis, I spray rust converter inside and paint it outside, which turns the surface rust black and gives it a protective coating. Followed with some paint in accessible places, then I use Waxoyl with some added new ep90 gear oil, so it never really dries and to reduce cracking. Time will tell, but removing any flaking and loose rust is a must. Most of the work is in the preparation pre waxoyl. Once rust has started, there is no point in just sealing it in, it needs to be chemically changed from Iron Oxide. 'The tannic acid reacts with the iron oxide in the rust, converting it into iron tannate, a stable, dark-colored material' which gives some protection and acts as a primer for painting and spraying the Waxoyl/oil mix over.
Did you get the truck up on a ramp, or just rolling around on the floor when you did yours? I was going to lanoguard mine but still umming and arring…..Lanoguard looks easier to apply without needing a ramp though?
I've tried all sorts in the past and currently i have a Range Rover and Defender...... the Defender i used Lanoguard but i came to the same conclusion as you, the spray is great for inside boxsections etc but a little weak, i brushed the grease on to the axles, chassis rails and all the heavy wear areas. I mean it took a while to do but it's been on two years and i would probably get one more winter out of it. As for my Range Rover i used Rust Buster products, i steam cleaned the whole underside thourghly, gave it a good wire brush to get all the loose stuff off then sprayed on FE123 converter and left it for a ful day (middle of summer), i then aplied there Techshield waxoil thourghly. I'd say it was three times the price but it looks the same now two years later as it did when i put it on. Btw both cars are everyday drivers all year round in Peakdistrict.
climb under your car and if it is reasonably clean and rust free forget these coatings, paint it, brush and spray, Some areas can be clear coated when you want to keep the appearance, IE coloured coil-over springs, cloured callipers etc, but sway bars, drop links, wishbones, floor pans etc paint is the best and you can keep spraying a bit on now and then, a lot of these new coatings are impossible to clean off and won't allow paint and other coatings to adhere, today's materials are tomorrows problems, if it was that good the fourth bridge would be coated with it and not paint. your dif seal is leaking
Hi. I’m not sure if it’s just the camera angle, but it looked like the lock tab on the drop arm has only been bent up around the nut. The other side of the washer needs to be bent around a flat part of the arm, otherwise in effect the nut can come lose and the washer simply rotates with the nut. This was picked up on a MoT test to me. You definitely don’t want the arm coming lose or dropping off😮
Looks to me it has evaporated away in a lot of places. Probably good if it's done annually, but is that what you really want. Still need a prouct that stays moist
the oil off the sheep is called lanolin hence the brand name lanoguard. it smells odd but is great for your skin i know first hand as a New Zealand farmer
Lanoguard have done a great job of creating a viral product through social media marketing, targeting people who wouldn't have used anything previously. My experience though is that it just isn't that great. It's telling that they now call it an 'annual treatment', whereas before they used to suggest it would last significantly longer. Personally if you've got a brand new car something like Dinotrol is a good option because you're not putting it onto rust (which will always limit staying power), but my preference for not-new cars is Bilt Hamber Dynax which just seems to work so much better than Lanoguard despite being a 'similar' lanolin based product.
my Nissan navara has something like Dinotrol on it ( I am presuming this is a kind of paint, never come across it before) - some sort of waxy 'paint'?. Now, you could argue it has lasted 8 years, but it hasn't really. I have just prepped my truck and found a large amount of rust behind the 'Dinotrol'. It seems that the chips etc from the road allow the water and salt to get behind the product and still start the rust process! As everyone admits, no one product is the answer but regular maintenance and topping up is the real answer. At least I will be able to see where I missed and where the rust is coming back/ an issue with lanoguard. I suppose I will just see it as the MOT for the chassis in terms of maintenance..........
Some chassis are galvanised and that is good for a few years. Paint from the factory is not done very well and therefore not worth doing. I sprayed the chassis of my Sprinter Motorhome and now need to check to see if it has done anything at all, it was a dipped paint job and it was new when I did it.
The problem is the quality of the steel these days. I bought a 20 year old series 2 1965 from the isle of wight, company owned workhorse, no love or attention. Most of the chassis still had its original black pant in tact. Where it was missing paint, surface rust formed but then stopped to proceed to deep and flaky corrosion
I'm moderately impressed as this is an honest review without sponsorship BS. I treated my 25yr old 300tdi (then) with dinitrol about 3 years ago and not impressed. The external treatment flaked off despite proper prep and cleaning. This lanoguard stays greasier so it is already ahead on points. I may give it a go..
What did you use? I have just sprayed 3125 on my Alfa, I washed, then used a screwdriver to remove any lose underseal then wire brush any surface rust. I've had the 3125 on the shelf for about 15 years, used some of it donkey's ago on another Alfa which was later sold.
I have used Lanoguard on machinery and motorcycles and I think that it has worked well but it does need topping up. Loose rust crust or dirt crust is never going to work with any product as the treated area falls off with the crust , one thin coating wont soak right through thick rust. Areas which are 'gritblasted by roadspray might need fairly regular topping up. My biggest success was a Suzuki Bandit 55k miles of all weather commuting alloy getting those little white spots soon after cleaning every time and the whole bike just looking tired even after polish etc LANOGUARD was a revolution bike looked a millon dollars hot pressure washer after a few months , off with the the dirt and the lanoguard then retreat. Simples.
In my teens a very long time ago I took a job in a garage, serving fuel mainly, remember those days?! In the workshop there was an old and very skilled (by the standards of the day) mechanic who at every MOT would spray the undersides of the cars with old engine oil then let them stand to drip dry over a graveled area created for the purpose, a lot of old cars used that garage. I build steel yachts, you need to look at the paint systems they use, owners would get mighty pissed off if rust showed after only a year!
I like the idea of a product from natural materials, should leave your hands nice & soft too. But I'm not sure I would be that pleased with the result. I would have expected Waxoyl to fair better.
Old engine oil......gloves and a rag and wipe all over the chassis......you will be impressed and its a great way of recycling some of your waste oil. Ever noticed why the chassis never goes rusty where the engine/gearbox oil leaks are! If you do re lanoguard it, dedicate a small area of the chassis and leave it untreated....then at a later date you can check to see if the Lanoguard really is working or not.
I won't be using Lanoguard again, i drenched the underside of my Capri and ancient 911. Within less than 3 months both cars were showing signs of the dreaded corrosion getting worse than ever. I prepped religiously and applied on a red hot summers day, left to dry for a couple of days, it looked great at 1st, but it just doesn't do what it says does. Went back to Dinitrol
hi, back in the day i used Waxoyl which kept rust a bay, my vehicle was hardly used off road, pre 1970 the l/rover chassis were stronger, since BL took over the Rover car company thats when troubled started
TBH what I do every year is buy three tins of cavity wax I prefer 3M ,at the end of the summer I get under the car and power wash it and tackle any small rusted areas then spray everything with Cavity wax spray it contains Lanolin anyway, this year I did not need to do the car absolutely zero rust from the previous year 2021 still a strong thick coating of wax thats doing its job £28 spent vs the cost of Lanoguard £100.
Needle gun the rust, flat disk it a tiny bit, phosphoric-acid it until you get back to rust free metal, etch primer, and then brush on two or three layers of paint. The rust on the bottom outside of the chassis rail is the worst because that’s where they rot through from the inside. The only way to stop the inside rotting is a primer coat of engine oil. (And to be honest that works best if the chassis is upside down.) lanogaurd and waxoil and all of these only work on paint as a very good sealer and they don’t work at all on rust. The only thing that ever did was red-lead paint :o)
Fresh engine oil or gear oil every time and don't wash all the dirt off; the dirt soaks up the oil and forms a coat that is not easily dislodged. It lasts a long time. Avoid rubber bushes and hoses etc. It generally attracts an MOT advisory : 'under side coated' which is better than: 'underside severely rusting'
1991 Def. Orig rails . Rear x member replaced , all ouriggers replaced , 2020 and 2021whole shooting match sprayed with used engine oil , 2022 used Lanoguard for the 1st time . Mid 2023 Lanoguarded again and there was sod all corrosion apparent . Vehicle used every day only goes off road up a short track to horse's field , personally think how and where they're used has a lot to do with it . Not averse to trying summat else but have loadsa Lano left.
land rover chassis rust from the inside out ,,,, im not sure if lanogaurd is fireproof or not , I use acf50 as it wont catch fire when your in welding . rusting is the one thing land rovers do better than anything else.
Maybe a couple of treatments will build up and be more effective. It looks like you use the car for its purpose so there will be more material hitting the frame than the average
Bought my 110 Utility new in 2015. It was Waxoyled by the dealer before I took delivery and redone by them every year for another five years. I used Lanoguard on it myself last year and it’s virtually rust free. I’ve also liberally sprayed inside every nook and cranny I could find with some other stuff but can’t remember what that was.
I have never tried this method before, but I have heard good results can be had with regular brush applications of old engine oil. I guess that is not great for looks or the environment though. Lanoguard seems decent but sadly not a cure for the rust scurge. Shame.
Won’t be using Lanoguard on my Grenadier. Whilst it’s still new and clean, I’ll have it professionally steam cleaned and Waxoiled (or similar/better product). Lanoguard, in my opinion, is more snake oil than proven prevention. As previous comments say, preparation is key. A good grit blaster (and I mean good) can clean all the underside, including nooks and crannies in under half a day, then spend an hour blowing out any remaining grit, leaving you with clean bare metal for lots of coats of your desired primer, paint, rust preventer, wax oil etc. I blasted a fleet of salt spreaders for a local council. Grit blast, etch prime, zinc phosphate base, two pack paint (three coats over two weeks, then as much Wax oil as the chassis would take. Nothing removed from the vehicles apart from taping up lights and sensors.
The best and cheapest alternative to dinitrol , lanoguard , fluid film etc is Bar and Chain oil. It is tacky ,so stays on , and contains a rust inhibitor.
I’d say that the answer to that is a big YES - I wouldn’t bee happy with that level of re-rusting against what they claim it does- was thinking about buying it but this has put me off
I am giving my Land Rover Defender 90 away for just £5 a ticket! The winner will be announced on Sunday 17th December at 8pm. Good luck!
GET A TICKET HERE: raffall.com/345715/enter-raffle-to-win-my-land-rover-defender-90-hosted-by-the-doctors-garage
Is it rusty though?
I worked on the 'Defender line' for 20 years, about 19 of those welding the right hand number one outrigger (thats the one right behind the right front wheel) if it has one continuous weld both sides along its seam, I welded it lol. Your 90 chassis has a higher carbon content than the previous boneshakers (leaf springs).
In Australia, many of us use fish oil - aka Fisholeum - which is actually a fish-lipid / acetone emulsion. The acetone keeps the fish oil super runny, allowing it to flow into all the nooks and crannies. However, the acetone then flashes off, leaving just the fish oil, which eventually skins over and forms an impervious layer. It stinks. Quite a lot, actually. But then it settles and doesn’t smell at all. We don’t salt our roads here but I do have older Italian cars, so I can attest the fish oil’s efficacy; treated areas do not rust.
Once rust has started it's almost impossible to stop. One of the best treatments is to apply gear oil in the same way the Lanoguard was applied. At 9:49 in the video the pinion leak demonstrates how effective an antioxidant gear oil is. Some mix with grease and spray heated to reduce viscosity this method is commonly used in Canada where salt is used on reads.
True. Treatment should start at the factory....
Treatment SHOULD start at the factory but we all know it does not happen.
Chain saw bar oil thinned with white spirit soaks into rusty metal. However it polymerises locking out additional layers. Something that remains sticky is a better option. Repeat every autumn (fall).
Treat existing rust with a wire brush followed by Dinitrol RC900 rust converter. Then Dinitrol ML on the underbody surfaces followed by Dinitrol 4941 black to give it a factory look finish.
Then do cavities and box sections with Dinitrol ML 1000.
Removing rust back to clean metal and applying a good quality durable finish is by far the best method but obviously not practical/virtually impossible in many places without completely dismantling the vehicle. Failing that, a good rust convertor is your best shot. I've had good results so far with Aqasteel which not only converts rust to hard stable substrate but forms a protective barrier which can be left unpainted if need be.
I've always found spraying below with waste engine oil, maybe thinned with a little desiel gave the bast results on an already surfaced rusted car.
I have a 2004 bmw e46 m3.
I re applied my Lanoguard today as it’s now been just over a year since first application, the tub I bought did 2 applications which was great. I found as I pressure washed and cleaned the car the other day underneath it was still beading water, some orange rust had became visible again in parts as it’s maybe wore off over the past year but that being said it isn’t ideal doing on axle stands but it’s so easy to apply. My car doesn’t do a great deal of miles either roughly 2/3k at most per year, I think I’ll just do it every year regardless, cost, ease of application and finished look is fantastic.
E46 m3, what a beautiful, tasteful car.
Timeless design.
Used Lanoguard for the first time on my 300tdi last summer - previous to that for five years have used Dinitrol. I live in the Highlands and probably the most salted roads in Britain. Rust comes back on both products and the truck needs to be treated annually. Don't know what to use this summer, but I am edging towards Dinitrol. I dont think that the lanoguard application reaches all the box cavities and as we know, they rust from the inside-out. I know after using Dintrol, though, I haven't needed to do any welding!
Have used waxoyl for decades and it works brilliant stuff
No wax will be effective on top of rust. To spray on a new vehicle’s chassis and underbody paintwork, inside and out, it is very effective at sealing the paint for long term protection. The other major benefit can be found by stopping mud and salty road spray from getting to mud traps, such as the rear crossmember and into holes in the side of the chassis adjacent to the tyres. Use grommets and rubber silicone adhesive for the holes and galvanised tin sheet to create mud guards for the rear crossmember. I did all this on my 1984 110 HiCap which spent its 22 year life literally in the cow shìt. However I avoided submerging the chassis in water of any kind as there was almost always a drier route that could be taken. The chassis, including the rear crossmember was almost like new when the vehicle was mechanically worn out and recycled. Only the mid outriggers were getting a bit crusty at that stage. Currently I have two Ford Rangers, a 2014 and a brand new one. Both have been thoroughly treated with a Bilt Hamber wax from new and holes blocked off in the wheel spray areas of the chassis. The 2014 looks great still, where others run in similar conditions by friends are red with rust by their third birthday. I intend to spray some oil on the 2014 soon to re-activate and soften the original wax coating and provide further protection to see it through to its 20th birthday if diesel is still a thing by then.
I have tried many products over the years to protect both new and classic cars and Waxoyle has proven to be the most effective for me. For example, we have a 1996 Range Rover and a 1971 long wheel base Land Rover which are used all year round where the roads are salted in winter. Neither show any signs of rust nor have they ever been welded. In fact, the underside of my old Series 3 looks better than under your Defender as it stands now. Applying Waxoyle is a messy process but once the chassis is thoroughly cleaned, panels and chassis cavities spray injected, chassis and underside components sprayed, it is not difficult to maintain with a little diligence. Periodically, and especially with the Land Rovers, I will scrape and clean any patches that may have rubbed or worn off and re-treat with a brush. So, I certainly recommend trying Waxoyle next time you treat your Defender. Good luck.
I did my Mitsubishi pick up underneath with about 5 cans of motorcycle chain lube which has a solvent in it which helps it penetrate and spread until it then dries to a fairly thick / robust layer of grease / oil and it has been very , very effective !!!! and pretty cheap ...
Hi Driftwood, may I ask which motorcycle chain lube cans you have used? I plan to do an ice blasting upfront to remove all coatings first. Asking for my Jimny ;-)
@@ldcrallye I think it was CD90 lube from toolstation ....
I purchased enough LANOGUARD for a Lorry as I wanted to cover Defender 110 and a Delorean. The Defender I did 1/2 of the rear cross member and I can see no sign of it less than a year later. The Delorean Chassis was a full restoration and it was superbly sticky/tacky when done but again I see no sign of the Lanoguard now. They also say you need to treat it EVERY year, if you did that I guess it would be ok but that is a big ask to do each year.
I don't know, is it a big ask? I have just done my car now (it's a Honda Accord and they rust pretty bad if left alone) and I'm prepared to redo it every year. I don't believe subsequent years are as bad as the first time you do it, I've Nutrarust 661 treated it first and then Lanoguard, so it's now just a case of getting under the car every year and topping up. Also gives you the incentive to get under your car and 'inspect' it, which in my case, was something I hardly ever did.
I find it's definitely best to give it an early top up after the first time you use it, maybe after just 6 months. That way the second layer really thickens up the first layer. After that, annually should be enough but it does of course depend on what sort of usage you do. The beauty of it is it is so easy to apply and it only takes an hour to do a Land Rover chassis inside and out.
Good tip that Grahame- maybe I should do a double coat before winter 👌🏻
I agree with Graham on the 6 months respray. Looking at your rusty bits dare I say you didn’t get as good a coverage you thought ? My 90 is 2011 with 127k miles and it’s totally black underneath a year since I last applying LG
@@thedoctorsgarage Yep, because it remains sticky subsequent coats stick to the underlying coats so the more coats you give it the thicker the protection. You only did the one coat so it's inevitable you have a few areas showing rust after a year. Retreat the whole lot and maybe again a few months later and you should be fine. It's just general road spray, stones, etc that abrade it so again, the thicker the better. After you've done maybe 4 treatments over a period of time you should get less and less abrasion. Obviously the inside of teh chasis is not subject to abrasion but I always top it up. After all, it's so easy on a Landy, you don't even have to jack it up!
@@markriley2733 Yep, the problem is that with the first treatment the product is runny so you can only spray so much on. Once it's 'gone off' after a week it'll take a second coat happily. My Landy (a 1979 Series 3) is all black on the chassis having had a few coats over a period of a year and seems to stay nice and black and waxy to the touch with enough thickness to prevent abrasion. With the Lanogard wand it's also easy to do the door frames, A posts (especially bottom half near the door hinges) and bulkhead. I drilled a few access holes (3/8") for access and sealed them with removable rubber plugs.
I used Lanoguard after seeing it being used on videos from Australia. I pressure washed the chassis on my 90, removed all the mud, used a rust converter on the rusty bits and coated with Dinatrol. After that I coated well with Lanoguard and that combination seemed to hold up well with no new rust. I then reapplied each autumn. It’s certainly not as nasty to use as the petroleum based chemicals but the car / you do smell like a sheep for a while.
My ocd mate did a full chassis off rebuild. He had his chassis acid dipped and treated then painted it the same silver as the body (blenhiem iirc). He regularly washed and polished the car, even underneath. He had to continually use touch up paints because it still rusted. After 10 years he was using waxoyl and still ended up patching the chassis. He got fed up fighting rust and sold it when the bulkhead started to go around the windscreen and door hinges.
I have always used Waxoil and from this evidence I will continue to do so. Have just used Lanogaurd on my 100hp but will revert to Wax oil. Its also a fraction of the price. I would get some rubber bungs into the holes on your chassis
Panda 100hp by any chance?
Lanoguard in my opinion isn’t the best product but it’s probably because a lot of people don’t prepare their vehicle properly before they apply it and they don’t realise that it’s something you do have to repeat every few months ( they say 6 months but with the new road Salt/Brine solution they use I found 3 months was better ).
I own a few LandRovers and 1 is under seal the old fashioned way.
1 is Lanoguard.
1 is Waxoyl.
The key to any of them being successful is in the Detail :-
A Proper under Power Wash with a Steam Cleaner ( not cold water ).
Allowed to Dry.
Rust removal and then treatment.
Allowed to Dry.
Finally the Treatment.
So from start to finish about a week and you need somewhere warm and dry for the vehicle to Dry out completely between each phase of the process.
Personally for me:-
Waxoyl is No.1.
Then Underseal.
Lanoguard is last I’m afraid but that’s my opinion 🤷♂️.
Spot on comments there.
Top up the sharp edges twice a year is what I've done for decades.
Tried all products.
The specialist ones are way overpriced.
Spray chain grease is cheapest and most effective ⚠️
Great video and content. As a landrover owner for more years than i can remember is that all these products that work on the visual outside of the chassis is fine but the demise of a chassis is the corrosion inside the chassis, basically rotting from the inside out, due to to water/condensation that cant escape, mud build up, etc. Thats why its so important to try and halt the corrosion inside and apply your preferred wax.
Dinitrol all the way 👍🏻 used dinitrol cavity wax and it gets into every single little area you could possibly imagine as it spreads slowly…great for a vehicle that has some early stages of rust on the chassis.
My Dad was always a fan of Dinitrol. It has a very good heritage.
Do you have to reapply it every year or so!
@@steveclark.. I would say no, it leaves a real good greasy film on that seems to repel water amazingly and really spreads in to any rusty areas
@@laidbackLUKEY Thanks, I'm looking for a one time permanent solution to killing what rust I'm already seeing on my pickup.
@@steveclark.. what truck and what year do you have?
I’ve used Lanoguard on my disco and it definitely helped slow the rust. What is good about lanoguard is you see the corrosion. Some rust paints coat the area and as you look under you think, that looks good but under the heavy paint your body or chassis is being eaten.
I’m going to give rust bullet a go this week. My disco is a couple years off 20 so who knows how long more she will last. Rust bullet if applied correctly looks like a good job. The one thing about land rovers and early discos was that they are very solid. Compare the body and chassis to a Land Cruiser and there is no comparison.
I'm not too impressed with the results, I personally think you would have been better using Waxoyl, you can also do inside cross members with the wand they supply. You will find it lasts an awful lot longer than 1 year.
Correct , waxoyl is the best , I treated a car , after welding new cross members and body mounting points to the chassis in 1992 , it still looks like it was done yesterday , zero rust .
I used Waxoyl on motorcycle mudguards. It dried up and fell off. Ordinary grease would have been better.
My car rear axle had been waxoyled. The rust was horrendous it literally flaked off and took the waxoyl layer with it. Utterly useless IMO.
@@chunkyfecalbreakfast Hopefully people can read the label , I does say rust protection not rust remover or inhibitor.
Waxoyl is the best protection for new or clean metal , there's no arguing about that , only an idiot would think to use a sealer over rust , or a cowboy trying to hide something.
Waxoyl is expensive, needs a compressor to apply thick enough - and dries and fails after a year or two.
I think the idea of lanolin is that it can be easily sprayed by hand and redone where necessary quickly and simply before each winter.
After removing most of any rust, not so easy inside the chassis, I spray rust converter inside and paint it outside, which turns the surface rust black and gives it a protective coating. Followed with some paint in accessible places, then I use Waxoyl with some added new ep90 gear oil, so it never really dries and to reduce cracking. Time will tell, but removing any flaking and loose rust is a must. Most of the work is in the preparation pre waxoyl.
Your steering box is leaking from the seal where the new drop arm is fitted, you can see it drip oil from the ball joint as it runs down from the steering box to the lowest point when you were looking at the front diff, and the dampness you put your finger in on the diff housing is the power steering fluid spraying back onto the diff when your driving. You may have damaged the seal when fitting the new drop arm. As for the lanoguard id say its not done a good job, i use the old tried and tested method of old engine oil mixed with some grease and sprayed on with an air gun, do it every year and get plenty inside the chassis so it runs out and you'll not have too much to worry about, and its free as we all have old oil from your annual oil change.
That's so old school!! Many years ago, decades, I was told by my great late friend that you can simply use old engine oil to protect your car, and after spending the best part of 5 days doing just the front of my car with Lanoguard, the engine oil idea came back to me. It's so much cheaper. My only issue is that I don't have a spray gun and compressor and brushing it on won't cut it (too many nooks and crannies).
Hi Marcus. I have a 1997 Defender 300 Tdi and have removed a lot of rust over recent years. I’ve tried most treatment options, BUT not Lanoguard, and I’m still looking for the perfect solution! I remember the video of you treating it last year but not in detail. My first thought is that preparation is the key and pressure washing the chassis alone is not the answer. You need to remove as much rust as you can before starting any treatment. I use a hammer to get rid of the large flaky bits, then a paint scraper, then a wire brush. Give the area a wipe over with degreaser or similar, let it dry and then 2 coats of Jenolite Rust Converter. After that some etch primer or red oxide and finally a coat of Hammerite Smooth or Satin black. It’s a costly exercise and very time consuming but seems to work.
I'd never recommend those swirling type wand extensions from Karcher but I find them pretty effective at removing loose rust and loose paint from chassis'. From there I use Bilt Hamber Dynax which IMO is a far superior, if outwardly similar product to Lanoguard.
I've just Lanoguarded my car and I didn't pressure wash it down, simply because I don't have one. I know they recommend that, but really, I did such a good job with just a wirebrush and scraper (absolute must!) that I'm questioning whether you really do need to use a pressure washer?
I would say that the Lanoguard has not really done a great job (nothing against the product personally). As someone experienced with rust proofing (I do have an 27 year old Jaguar!), a regular annual application of underseal does quite a good job at keeping the rust at bay. At risk areas such as subframes are best wire brushed clean, rust treated and then an application of POR15 (or similar) - and that generally makes things pretty bullit proof. Even so, it is not good enough to just spray it on - subframes need removal and parts dismantled to ensure everything is clean and painted.
we used POR15 on my dads front end, good shit! I need to get a load of it in,
Agreed.
Underseal??
If you trap rust beneath underseal it will fester like crazy and you won't be able to treat it.
Having used several anti rust fluids, I think that Lanoguard has a place in rust proofing suspension and steering components, but for box sections and chassis, Waxoyl or Dinotrol are much more effective, especially when used with a proper applicator off an air compressor rather than the plastic hand pump applicators provided in kits.
I used it on my Range Rover. It appears to never dry and the chassis now has a coating of dirt stuck to it. I have used it on internal panels where it will creep into seems and folds in the metal. I think that this is a better use for it.
I thought Lanoguard would last better than that but maybe as some have said a 6 month recoat first time around a good idea. I've just had mine Dinitrol treated again and pleased with how that's protecting my now 20 year old Defender.
What treatment did you apply? I just used some 3125 on my Alfa GTV, I've had this stuff on the shelf for about 15 years, added a bit of white spirit, left it in the sun and worked perfectly. I have some heavier stuff I could spray over but would prefer not to cover and use permanent stuff so I can actually see how it's holding up.
Really helpful! It really depends on the conditions you drove it as well. All in all I think it did it’s job and as any home treatment there is some learning curve. Subscribed!
Great update cheers. I plan to use Dinitrol penitrator rust proofing cavity wax on the back of my 90 my cross member then seal it with Lanoguard grease. To stop the crud I’ve bought some Gwyn Lewis mud shields. Hope this helps cheers.
The best bit you showed was the rear done with Buzzweld, 3 years ago. Maybe the answer is right there for under your truck?
Buzzweld for me, all day every day - even have some better budget options than lanoguard - like UP for example. Found that lanoguard attracted mud to my chassis and was a nightmare to wash off. Wont be using it again.
I have a xj Cherokee and which I want to keep, it’s had ome2.5 lift and Polly bushes throughout, paired with 0 offset wheels and som bfgs, I was looking at dinatrol but is quite expensive and still needs re coating every couple of years so I’m thinking about lanoguard , make it like a yearly routine? And I’m figuring it will start to build up in time especially if I perhaps do it 6monthly, I’m thinking that more frequent treatments are actually good as you are more aware of what’s going on rather that forgetting for 2yesrs and simply hoping for the best , so yes , I think this is the way forward, let’s see how it goes!!
I have just used lanoguard on my Nissan Navara (2012). I have used waxoyl in the past and found the lanoguard much easier and actually less messy! I have no special ramps or lifts or other equipment to get under my truck, so it is always bit of a chore but I can cope with the smell better than the tar like blobs I had before! Also the fact that I didnt need to use my dads pressure system to deliver it was also a huge bonus. I will be doing it again in lanoguard after the winter - so twice a year - just in case I missed some! in reality it is probably more about what equipment you already have which will deliver the stuff to the chassis. Early days, but in terms of application, lanoguard wins out for me.
Sadly with the D40 Navaras you really need to pre-emptively treat them to stop it happening in the first place :( the only way to save them really is to get both inside and out the chassis rails with something like a zinc coating :(
Lanoguard is all hype & advertising,, it's easy to do and I've tried it but it's really not that much than doing nothing other than easing your conscience for a while when it looks clean initially. if you want to protect exposed chassis from road spray & debris you need to clean it up properly, remove scale & wash off salts then use something like Dinitrol 4941 or Bilt Hamber UB for exposed external chassis and 3125 or Dinitrol UC or similar for internal sections.. Lanoguard really just covers it up for a short time & washes away with road spray. I'm Not sponsored, I tried it but found Dinitrol & Bilt Hamber are miles better products esp if you take time under your vehicle prepping why not do it properly for a little more effort & ££ it will look a lot better after years than this.
Great video. Thank you.
I just finished applying Lanoguard to my 4x4. Easy to use but the spray nozzles all blocked up. Lucky I managed to finish the job.
Has anyone got any tip re: nozzles?
Clean the gun through with warm soapy water or the lano cleaning product they sell.. The guns are prone to playing up, I warmed the lano up in hot water for a while prior too.
@@99AmethystZJ thanks.😀
Be interested to know when you do a 2nd treat how a appears 6 months later especially in the areas that have shown surface rust again after the first year. Maybe test those areas with the grease for added protection.
I drive a 2006 XC70 P2 / Car is a fishing car, so often ends up in fields and grotty tracks. Cannot emphasise the importance of a full clean and de rust prior to application. I cleaned off rust and then applied Vactan painted on to hard use areas, then over painted that with smoothrite, once all that was done it got Lanoguard. As I venture into the car doing various jobs, ie panels off into the crevices, they get cleaned out and a quick spray of lanoguard. I’m old school and always used the heavy black paint on stuff, lano is really easy to apply.
What Landy's need is a sacrificial anode - or a chassis as it's known in the biz?
I used Lanogaurd for the first time on my TD5 when we had the first hot spell and had a good few weeks of warm weather. New springs shocks fitted and while the old ones were out a good clean , de-rust , rust converter, paint , left to dry and then a good going over with the Lanogaurd. I thought it was never going to dry and didn’t use the Lany for over two weeks! It has dried to an extent but feels very tacky and road dust , grit is sticking to it. The shiny new springs and shocks have gone dull but I wanted to try it on something that had never seen rust!! I’m interested to see how it is going to look after the winter. The chassis and axles look nice and black and are not coated in thick crap that you don’t know what is going on underneath the mess. Just a quick pointer for wax oil, my friends Defender has just failed its MOT on a rotten rear X member !!!! So called wax oiled from the dealer less than 2 years ago and advertised as being so from new every year .
I've come to watch your video because I've just done my car (well, just the front) and I haven't seen how you did yours but for just the front of my front car I used the entire 2 litres!!! Which I know is crazy but it was what I chose to do and is now drenched in the stuff. Before that I used Nutrarust 661 and before that I scraped and wirebrushed over two days. Maybe you put too thin a coat on? And maybe you need to go over it again, more regularly (especially as your car is more utilitarian and likely to get a lot of exposure to water/mud etc)?
Whatever happened to good 'ol 'Ziebarting' My 1980 TR7 was Ziebarted from new (ish) and has never had any welding, always dry stored. Only last year I went to town on the back underneath to smarten it up & refresh. (I know Ziebart is a brand of waxoyling)
You only lasted a good couple of minutes in each hole?
I did my Discovery 4 with it, not overly impressed, it seems to stay sticky , I left it for 4 days to dry and still sticky, I would use it inside the chassis but not on the outside.
Can remember 30 odd years ago a chap I met on my post round fabricated a STAINLESS STEEL chassis!!! Bet its still goin well...
I found your review to be realistic , i enjoyed your video. My personal advice would be to wash and treat the rusty areas, then paint them with a high quality chassis black like Eastwoods or POR 15 Chassis Black, then use a protection oil film over the top. I think in the areas that appear to have not been protected that well by the lanoguard, try Dinitrol ML you can get it in a spray can as well as undercoating dispenser. It has more substance and remains thicker. Ive got a Toyota that i treated 3 years ago, its still sticky and protecting. The bottom line is i dont think 1 product is the answer but multiple. Corroless is by far the best rust protection paint ive used on parts that are rusted, i use this then the chassis black, then the waxes/oils over to bullet proof it!
Have a look at Buzzweld UP or their new one which i think is called chassis guard. UP goes hard, and is clear so you can see what is going on. I wasn't a fan of lanoguard, attracted mud to my chassis and was a real pain to clean off. Really like the more 'permanent' buzzweld solutions like RE and WAR, but their budget options are on point too.
Same thoughts Hicksy, used it on my mpv and used the Moto grease mostly on subframe but looks bad with debris, dust etc stuck all over it, looked at buzzweld for my newly purchased (mint) Jeep so still researching..of course Bilt Hamber worth a mention too.. All in the prep as they say..👍
Honestly, if you want to protect your front outriggers and rear crossmember take a look at the inner arch guards that Gwyn Lewis supply, keeps the weather and stones off both areas, protects your footwell as well, not even expensive, Tersbaek TV have a video on here showing instalation. As for crossmember paint, try Jotun Jotamastic, it's epoxy and is made for boat hulls, it's really forgiving where prep is difficult and sticks like mad ,can be brushed or rollered, being an epoxy it won't let rust spread underneath if chipped , just done a 130 chassis with it, very impressed.
I don't reckon much of the Lanoguard, you'd be better off cleaning the chassis, using a good rust killer and either painting and Dinatrol or just Dinatrol, my 93 chassis looks better and I just touch that up with waxoyl when needed. 👆
I've fitted those Gwyn Lewis arch guards, a real no brainer, one of the best mods I've done.
Jotun Jotamastic gets my vote. I started using it two years ago and so those areas I treated first have now been through two winters and are still rust free with no additional treatments in that time. I also used it on the sump and rocker cover of my Golf and it seems unaffected by 2 years of exposure to oil and heat. If it is used on areas exposed to UV then a top coat of paint is required.
Just watching your video about lanoguard. Think Youd be better off using Bilt Hamber spray on wax. I used it on my Land Cruiser and it does not come off. Gives a really nice satin black wax finish.
The problem with all these proprietary finishes is exactly the same they are a finish and finishes have to be reapplied and that has to be upon a prepared surface. It is the nature of the problem. That is why on working vehicles for my lengthy lifetime many people sprayed old engine oil underneath. It is not pretty but it penetrates , does not wipe off, gathers dirt but has a residual function when hosed off and can absorb another similar coat without having to revert to bare metal. It is also relatively cheap can be done at home with a cheap paint sprayer or paraffin sprayer but will take some surface preparation of the ground you are working on. If you want your Rover as a city car probably not for you but if you have a working machine of any sort a view still worth considering. Remember, vintage and classic vehicles survive best in areas where oil coating protected them. The advantage of the type of products recommended is not for the customer but for the manufacturer of the patented item and process.
What sould I use in a 27 years old Mercedes? I dont think it has ever had eny sorts of un-rust treatment.
Lanoguard would be an easy
And good choice
Nice info my friend thank you for your help 😊
i always shultz underneath give it a good hot jet wash,dry and shultz it wont rust
With rust proofing it’s simple the more you put in the more you get out of it but I think for the amount of effort it takes to apply you can’t really beat lanogaurd it’s almost enjoyable! re applying is also just as straight forward. Un like alot of traditional products.
I've been looking at Lanoguard and trying to decide if it's worth trying it on my, erm........LandCruiser....Ooer Mrs!😂I Waxoyled it when I bought it 18 years ago and wish I hadn't bothered. These days I treat any surface rust with Aquasteel which, so far, seems to be doing a good job. I also use aerosol motorcycle chain lube in exposed areas. It's cheap, transparent, sticks like STAB and doesn't harden and flake of like some products do. I might try out the Lanoguard inside the chassis rails/members.
Galvanised chassis is the only cure. The rest of the alloy to steel corrosion is just built in. They've never heard of dissimilar metal corrosion.
Everyone has their own view on what works best, but I think it all depends on how you treat your Defender (mud wading, stream crossing etc) and how well you maintain it after extreme condition trips. If it is just used for general day to day driving, most treatments will be fine.
The lanoguard doesn't look to bad, but I'd definitely say it needs a top up after every 6 months.
Road salt & mud will strip most spray on protective materials.
Lanoguard claims it stands up to jet washing
What was the product from buzzweld you used. Love the finish on the cross member. Think I’ll be going with the lanoguard on both my defender and t4 dub. #moneypits
i done mine with dinitrol 2 years ago it looks the same as it did when i put it on mot man said it looks like new lol
Back in 2010, I bought a 97 300tdi 90 county from a "horsey lady" in the Midlands. I must say, she was into horses big time, and the underside of the Landy was absolutely encrusted with ...errr horse manure (to be polite) . It had the customary delaminating of the crossmember so I feared for the state of the chassis. No need to though, after I had bribed the kids to jetwash underneath....it was like new..! Even had a couple of stickers intact from the factory. For 13 years the horse muck had kept it mint, apart from the crossmember which needed replacing. So I pondered the idea of using the stuff to protect my beloved. .... but opted instead for a galvanised chassis and stainless steel exhaust on my latest steed.
Any product washes off.
We've tried them all.
You have to top up all the sharp edges twice a year depending what conditions the vehicle is exposed to.
We now use a chain grease spray can which is just £6 by Granville.
My 2003 Rover 75 has 210k miles and still clean underneath. 😊
Used the stuff on mine got it through 2 mot as I had advised rust on mot . Worth the money as had enough for 2 applications
After removing most of any rust, not so easy inside the chassis, I spray rust converter inside and paint it outside, which turns the surface rust black and gives it a protective coating. Followed with some paint in accessible places, then I use Waxoyl with some added new ep90 gear oil, so it never really dries and to reduce cracking. Time will tell, but removing any flaking and loose rust is a must. Most of the work is in the preparation pre waxoyl. Once rust has started, there is no point in just sealing it in, it needs to be chemically changed from Iron Oxide. 'The tannic acid reacts with the iron oxide in the rust, converting it into iron tannate, a stable, dark-colored material' which gives some protection and acts as a primer for painting and spraying the Waxoyl/oil mix over.
Will Hammerite work?
Did you get the truck up on a ramp, or just rolling around on the floor when you did yours? I was going to lanoguard mine but still umming and arring…..Lanoguard looks easier to apply without needing a ramp though?
Yeah rolled around on the floor- wasnt too bad
I've tried all sorts in the past and currently i have a Range Rover and Defender...... the Defender i used Lanoguard but i came to the same conclusion as you, the spray is great for inside boxsections etc but a little weak, i brushed the grease on to the axles, chassis rails and all the heavy wear areas. I mean it took a while to do but it's been on two years and i would probably get one more winter out of it. As for my Range Rover i used Rust Buster products, i steam cleaned the whole underside thourghly, gave it a good wire brush to get all the loose stuff off then sprayed on FE123 converter and left it for a ful day (middle of summer), i then aplied there Techshield waxoil thourghly. I'd say it was three times the price but it looks the same now two years later as it did when i put it on. Btw both cars are everyday drivers all year round in Peakdistrict.
climb under your car and if it is reasonably clean and rust free forget these coatings, paint it, brush and spray, Some areas can be clear coated when you want to keep the appearance, IE coloured coil-over springs, cloured callipers etc, but sway bars, drop links, wishbones, floor pans etc paint is the best and you can keep spraying a bit on now and then, a lot of these new coatings are impossible to clean off and won't allow paint and other coatings to adhere, today's materials are tomorrows problems, if it was that good the fourth bridge would be coated with it and not paint. your dif seal is leaking
Fluid film seems to work well. Like Lanoguard but much cheaper.
I use indasa Black underbody spray its all you need to protect land rover chassis and hydraulic oil spray inside the chassis
Hi. I’m not sure if it’s just the camera angle, but it looked like the lock tab on the drop arm has only been bent up around the nut. The other side of the washer needs to be bent around a flat part of the arm, otherwise in effect the nut can come lose and the washer simply rotates with the nut. This was picked up on a MoT test to me. You definitely don’t want the arm coming lose or dropping off😮
Looks to me it has evaporated away in a lot of places. Probably good if it's done annually, but is that what you really want. Still need a prouct that stays moist
wax and oil and spray with diesel more often . Also check Aluminum and metal contact.
the oil off the sheep is called lanolin hence the brand name lanoguard. it smells odd but is great for your skin i know first hand as a New Zealand farmer
Lanoguard have done a great job of creating a viral product through social media marketing, targeting people who wouldn't have used anything previously. My experience though is that it just isn't that great. It's telling that they now call it an 'annual treatment', whereas before they used to suggest it would last significantly longer. Personally if you've got a brand new car something like Dinotrol is a good option because you're not putting it onto rust (which will always limit staying power), but my preference for not-new cars is Bilt Hamber Dynax which just seems to work so much better than Lanoguard despite being a 'similar' lanolin based product.
my Nissan navara has something like Dinotrol on it ( I am presuming this is a kind of paint, never come across it before) - some sort of waxy 'paint'?. Now, you could argue it has lasted 8 years, but it hasn't really. I have just prepped my truck and found a large amount of rust behind the 'Dinotrol'. It seems that the chips etc from the road allow the water and salt to get behind the product and still start the rust process! As everyone admits, no one product is the answer but regular maintenance and topping up is the real answer. At least I will be able to see where I missed and where the rust is coming back/ an issue with lanoguard.
I suppose I will just see it as the MOT for the chassis in terms of maintenance..........
Some chassis are galvanised and that is good for a few years. Paint from the factory is not done very well and therefore not worth doing. I sprayed the chassis of my Sprinter Motorhome and now need to check to see if it has done anything at all, it was a dipped paint job and it was new when I did it.
Not over impressed with the result after only a year 👍thanks for sharing
The problem is the quality of the steel these days. I bought a 20 year old series 2 1965 from the isle of wight, company owned workhorse, no love or attention. Most of the chassis still had its original black pant in tact. Where it was missing paint, surface rust formed but then stopped to proceed to deep and flaky corrosion
I'm moderately impressed as this is an honest review without sponsorship BS.
I treated my 25yr old 300tdi (then) with dinitrol about 3 years ago and not impressed. The external treatment flaked off despite proper prep and cleaning. This lanoguard stays greasier so it is already ahead on points. I may give it a go..
What did you use? I have just sprayed 3125 on my Alfa, I washed, then used a screwdriver to remove any lose underseal then wire brush any surface rust. I've had the 3125 on the shelf for about 15 years, used some of it donkey's ago on another Alfa which was later sold.
I have used Lanoguard on machinery and motorcycles and I think that it has worked well but it does need topping up.
Loose rust crust or dirt crust is never going to work with any product as the treated area falls off with the crust , one thin coating wont soak right through thick rust.
Areas which are 'gritblasted by roadspray might need fairly regular topping up.
My biggest success was a Suzuki Bandit 55k miles of all weather commuting alloy getting those little white spots soon after cleaning every time and the whole bike just looking tired even after polish etc LANOGUARD was a revolution bike looked a millon dollars hot pressure washer after a few months , off with the the dirt and the lanoguard then retreat.
Simples.
In my teens a very long time ago I took a job in a garage, serving fuel mainly, remember those days?! In the workshop there was an old and very skilled (by the standards of the day) mechanic who at every MOT would spray the undersides of the cars with old engine oil then let them stand to drip dry over a graveled area created for the purpose, a lot of old cars used that garage.
I build steel yachts, you need to look at the paint systems they use, owners would get mighty pissed off if rust showed after only a year!
Sikagard-6220 or 6220S Sprayable, high penetrating cavity wax is a superior rust prevention product that is my 'go to' rust protection.
I like the idea of a product from natural materials, should leave your hands nice & soft too. But I'm not sure I would be that pleased with the result. I would have expected Waxoyl to fair better.
Old engine oil......gloves and a rag and wipe all over the chassis......you will be impressed and its a great way of recycling some of your waste oil. Ever noticed why the chassis never goes rusty where the engine/gearbox oil leaks are! If you do re lanoguard it, dedicate a small area of the chassis and leave it untreated....then at a later date you can check to see if the Lanoguard really is working or not.
I won't be using Lanoguard again, i drenched the underside of my Capri and ancient 911. Within less than 3 months both cars were showing signs of the dreaded corrosion getting worse than ever. I prepped religiously and applied on a red hot summers day, left to dry for a couple of days, it looked great at 1st, but it just doesn't do what it says does. Went back to Dinitrol
Beautiful vehicle
hi, back in the day i used Waxoyl which kept rust a bay, my vehicle was hardly used off road, pre 1970 the l/rover chassis were stronger, since BL took over the Rover car company thats when troubled started
Why you don't paint over it and then put some layer with thick shit for protect for Stones and shit from the wheels.
TBH what I do every year is buy three tins of cavity wax I prefer 3M ,at the end of the summer I get under the car and power wash it and tackle any small rusted areas then spray everything with Cavity wax spray it contains Lanolin anyway, this year I did not need to do the car absolutely zero rust from the previous year 2021 still a strong thick coating of wax thats doing its job £28 spent vs the cost of Lanoguard £100.
Great idea!
Needle gun the rust, flat disk it a tiny bit, phosphoric-acid it until you get back to rust free metal, etch primer, and then brush on two or three layers of paint. The rust on the bottom outside of the chassis rail is the worst because that’s where they rot through from the inside. The only way to stop the inside rotting is a primer coat of engine oil. (And to be honest that works best if the chassis is upside down.) lanogaurd and waxoil and all of these only work on paint as a very good sealer and they don’t work at all on rust. The only thing that ever did was red-lead paint :o)
Looks rubbish to me. How many miles driving after the coating?
Fresh engine oil or gear oil every time and don't wash all the dirt off; the dirt soaks up the oil and forms a coat that is not easily dislodged. It lasts a long time. Avoid rubber bushes and hoses etc. It generally attracts an MOT advisory : 'under side coated' which is better than: 'underside severely rusting'
1991 Def. Orig rails . Rear x member replaced , all ouriggers replaced , 2020 and 2021whole shooting match sprayed with used engine oil , 2022 used Lanoguard for the 1st time . Mid 2023 Lanoguarded again and there was sod all corrosion apparent . Vehicle used every day only goes off road up a short track to horse's field , personally think how and where they're used has a lot to do with it . Not averse to trying summat else but have loadsa Lano left.
land rover chassis rust from the inside out ,,,, im not sure if lanogaurd is fireproof or not , I use acf50 as it wont catch fire when your in welding . rusting is the one thing land rovers do better than anything else.
Maybe a couple of treatments will build up and be more effective. It looks like you use the car for its purpose so there will be more material hitting the frame than the average
Been thinking of doing this to mu jimny but does this not just seal the rust in?
Presumably it's basically lanolin and works by excluding air. Oil-based stuff works the same way.
Bought my 110 Utility new in 2015. It was Waxoyled by the dealer before I took delivery and redone by them every year for another five years.
I used Lanoguard on it myself last year and it’s virtually rust free. I’ve also liberally sprayed inside every nook and cranny I could find with some other stuff but can’t remember what that was.
I have never tried this method before, but I have heard good results can be had with regular brush applications of old engine oil. I guess that is not great for looks or the environment though. Lanoguard seems decent but sadly not a cure for the rust scurge. Shame.
If it’s already rusty you’re going to get benefit but the best thing to do is to properly treat the rust then maintain.
Won’t be using Lanoguard on my Grenadier. Whilst it’s still new and clean, I’ll have it professionally steam cleaned and Waxoiled (or similar/better product). Lanoguard, in my opinion, is more snake oil than proven prevention.
As previous comments say, preparation is key.
A good grit blaster (and I mean good) can clean all the underside, including nooks and crannies in under half a day, then spend an hour blowing out any remaining grit, leaving you with clean bare metal for lots of coats of your desired primer, paint, rust preventer, wax oil etc.
I blasted a fleet of salt spreaders for a local council. Grit blast, etch prime, zinc phosphate base, two pack paint (three coats over two weeks, then as much Wax oil as the chassis would take. Nothing removed from the vehicles apart from taping up lights and sensors.
The best and cheapest alternative to dinitrol , lanoguard , fluid film etc is Bar and Chain oil. It is tacky ,so stays on , and contains a rust inhibitor.
I prefer waxoil have used it since the 70s
I’d say that the answer to that is a big YES - I wouldn’t bee happy with that level of re-rusting against what they claim it does- was thinking about buying it but this has put me off