I am just getting back into 3d printing from about 2 years and the advancement in tech is mind blowing. You have completely sold me on beacon. That thing is impressive
I am keen on 3D printing so I usually find videos which are related to 3D printing to improve my listening English skill. Finally I found you. Your channel is very exciting and joyful. Your accent and pronunciation sound very good for me to improve my listening skill. Thanks so much.
I love my Beacon probes. It was good when I first got it but I had to have multiple Beacon models for each build plate I use just for the Z offset differences. Since they added Contact it has been the best money I ever spent on printer electronics. It sets its own Z offset each print whether I'm using smooth PEI or textured and my first layers are always perfect. Its so good it actually made me realise that there is a fair bit of difference between the flatness of the build plates I use. Sucks the Beacon didn't integrate with the Nighthawk for you. I was thinking about replacing my canbus board with one so I could finally have a single cable but I just wasn't sure about them and now I'll wait to see what others have to say. I had similar Beacon connectivity problems when I added a connector to the Beacon cable just to make working on the system easier so maybe it has something to do with shielding of the USB signal.
Someday I'll probably try the chained connection again. I had things that needed printing and the printer had already been out of service for a week. I felt like I needed to find a workaround and go with it for now, event if it wasn't the ideal solution. Shielding on the cable is a good shout. Definitely something to test whenever I get back to troubleshooting this again.
Yes, beacon+contact is the perfect ABL solution technically speaking. I wish they would add a Canbus transceiver so the Beacon could be daisy-chained to an existing Canbus bus. If it were possible, I would have bought them long ago for my printers. I had hoped that nighthawk USB-ness would solve the multiple cable problem. Apparently not.
There is also the Fysetc toolhead board now that includes a whole USB hub with 3 available USB ports onboard. I haven't used Fysetc boards before but I'm very tempted to get a couple to try out. They aren't expensive either. Only reason I haven't yet is I was hoping to see someone test them and also, having two cables isn't causing me any problems, its just an aesthetic thing.
I have heard. I signed up to keep my current one and have a replacement sent once they have a solution. After replacing their cable with one I made myself, my board has been mostly reliable. It still disconnects occasionally and I have to restart the printer.
Nice looking printer, even better now with all the mods! Are you happy with the new extruder? I want to build a Stealthchanger setup and can't decide between G2SA, WristWatch G2, or Orbiter V2. Lots of money to build a couple of toolheads so I want to get it right the first time! :-)
Yeah, the WristWatch seems fine. I also have an Orbiter V2 on my other printer, and they feel basically interchangeable to me. My main reason for going with the WristWatch was that I had spare parts from an old G2 kit that I used to build it.
It's called the Clicky-Clack Fridge Door mod, and it's one of the best things I've done to that printer. Here's the Github page with info, and if you look around you can find some online retailers that sell kits with all the needed hardware. github.com/tanaes/whopping_Voron_mods/tree/main/clickyclacky_door
It's been a while since I installed that, but I'm pretty sure it was some parts I printed from this collection: www.printables.com/model/279739-voron-can-bus-z-chain-move And then I replaced the standard wider z chain with one of the unused x/y chains, which are a bit narrower.
Hi. I have a kit for a trident but haven't started yet. I was planning to build it with the stealthburner but you switched to the dragon burner, why? Was the stealthburner not good? Thanks for the video
The Stealthburner is fine, especially as a starting point if you're building a Voron for the first time. For me, it eventually hit a performance ceiling and I wanted less weight and better part cooling, so that's why I've switched.
@@gunplamark thanks for the reply 😊. I assembled a V0.2 last year and I built it with the dragon burner but I'm under the impression that cooling is still stopping me from going faster. It doesn't bother me much because I'm more for quality than speed. I was planning to add an extra cooling fan in the chamber of the Trident (bambulab style).
@@dazuio7175 The Mini Stealth (not mini stealthburner) toolhead should give an extra 20% increase in airflow compared to the Dragonburner. It uses extra air guides glued into the 4010 blowers to create a notably smoother path for the air flow.
I'm building my Voron 2.4 and need to trim my canbus cable. I'm trying to digure out how long I should go. I dont want to go too short to cause strain, nor do i want to go too long and have it flopping around. How did you gauge your length?
It depends on where the umbilical enters your enclosure, but for me I just moved the print head to the opposite corner, furthest away from the umbilical entry point, and then went with a length that leaves just a bit of slack at that distance.
I just upgraded my LDO 2.4R2 with a dragon burner, beacon and nitehawk 36. I haven't printed anything yet, but I've been playing around with the beacon probe. I am using the accessory usb port on the nitehawk I've done a handful of large bed meshes and have yet to experience a disconnect. To make my cable, I cut the usb pigtail that came with the nitehawk down to a little over an inch. I then chopped the end off of the cable that came with the beacon and spliced the two together. The beacon USB cable is shielded. I spliced 5V to 5V, D- to D1, D+ to D+, Gnd to Gnd, and I also gathered up the shield and spliced it to the extra ground wire from the nitehawk. If you didn't use a shielded cable, perhaps that's the issue?
After more testing, my issue turned out to be the long USB umbilical cable that came with the Nitehawk. I replaced it with a new umbilical cable that I made myself, and after that the pass thru USB from the Nitehawk to the Beacon has been working great.
Can you go into detail about what parts are on this dragon burner, and what 3d prints go together with it? I'm looking to upgrade away from SB to this same exact setup, but have no idea what I need.
The short answer is that I purchased a Phaetus Next G Drop Effect hotend, built the Wristwatch G2 extruder, and then used the LDO Nitehawk-36 and Beacon probe that are mentioned a lot in this episode. The longer, more complete answer will probably require a short video to go over how to find all the correct printed parts. I'll try to make that soon. Thanks for the question!
The Dragon Burner repository has a bunch of different mounting parts. If you're running tap, you probably need one from here: github.com/chirpy2605/voron/tree/main/general/Alternative_Voron_Mounts/Modified_Mounts/Tap/STLs
If you try a similar setup and manage to get it working, please let me know. I'll probably do some additional troubleshooting in the future whenever I decide that it's okay for my printer to have some down time.
I'm guessing voltage droop was your USB chaining problem. Try upping your conductor size through the umbilical and go back to the chaining. If you are able to measure voltage and even current then even better.
I am just getting back into 3d printing from about 2 years and the advancement in tech is mind blowing. You have completely sold me on beacon. That thing is impressive
I am keen on 3D printing so I usually find videos which are related to 3D printing to improve my listening English skill. Finally I found you. Your channel is very exciting and joyful. Your accent and pronunciation sound very good for me to improve my listening skill. Thanks so much.
that is awesome
I love my Beacon probes. It was good when I first got it but I had to have multiple Beacon models for each build plate I use just for the Z offset differences. Since they added Contact it has been the best money I ever spent on printer electronics. It sets its own Z offset each print whether I'm using smooth PEI or textured and my first layers are always perfect.
Its so good it actually made me realise that there is a fair bit of difference between the flatness of the build plates I use.
Sucks the Beacon didn't integrate with the Nighthawk for you. I was thinking about replacing my canbus board with one so I could finally have a single cable but I just wasn't sure about them and now I'll wait to see what others have to say.
I had similar Beacon connectivity problems when I added a connector to the Beacon cable just to make working on the system easier so maybe it has something to do with shielding of the USB signal.
Someday I'll probably try the chained connection again. I had things that needed printing and the printer had already been out of service for a week. I felt like I needed to find a workaround and go with it for now, event if it wasn't the ideal solution.
Shielding on the cable is a good shout. Definitely something to test whenever I get back to troubleshooting this again.
Yes, beacon+contact is the perfect ABL solution technically speaking. I wish they would add a Canbus transceiver so the Beacon could be daisy-chained to an existing Canbus bus. If it were possible, I would have bought them long ago for my printers.
I had hoped that nighthawk USB-ness would solve the multiple cable problem. Apparently not.
There is also the Fysetc toolhead board now that includes a whole USB hub with 3 available USB ports onboard. I haven't used Fysetc boards before but I'm very tempted to get a couple to try out. They aren't expensive either. Only reason I haven't yet is I was hoping to see someone test them and also, having two cables isn't causing me any problems, its just an aesthetic thing.
Are those smoked panels? Love the look
What LEDs do you have? Do the smoke panels help as a diffuser?
Thanks, very useful
Which beacon are you using, Beacon D or Beacon H ?
Mine is the Beacon H.
If you haven't heard, LDO has recalled the nighthawk.
I have heard. I signed up to keep my current one and have a replacement sent once they have a solution. After replacing their cable with one I made myself, my board has been mostly reliable. It still disconnects occasionally and I have to restart the printer.
What's the story with the nighthawk?
Great video!
If you factor out the weight of the Beacon probe, does your Dragon Burner weigh less than the Stealthburner you removed?
Yes, definitely. I should have weighed both to have actual numbers for you, but alas I did not.
hello, have a link for stl beacon? thanks
Nice looking printer, even better now with all the mods! Are you happy with the new extruder? I want to build a Stealthchanger setup and can't decide between G2SA, WristWatch G2, or Orbiter V2. Lots of money to build a couple of toolheads so I want to get it right the first time! :-)
Yeah, the WristWatch seems fine. I also have an Orbiter V2 on my other printer, and they feel basically interchangeable to me. My main reason for going with the WristWatch was that I had spare parts from an old G2 kit that I used to build it.
Nice build. Where did you get that front door? I like it! I have a 350 and don't really like the double doors.
It's called the Clicky-Clack Fridge Door mod, and it's one of the best things I've done to that printer. Here's the Github page with info, and if you look around you can find some online retailers that sell kits with all the needed hardware. github.com/tanaes/whopping_Voron_mods/tree/main/clickyclacky_door
@gunplamark I've heard of that mod, but haven't seen one yet. Thank you!
Nice build! What Z chain modd is that?
I'm curious about the same thing. What z chain mod is that and do you have a link to the umbilical mount on the gantry?
It's been a while since I installed that, but I'm pretty sure it was some parts I printed from this collection: www.printables.com/model/279739-voron-can-bus-z-chain-move
And then I replaced the standard wider z chain with one of the unused x/y chains, which are a bit narrower.
The link to the umbilical mount is in the video description.
Hi. I have a kit for a trident but haven't started yet. I was planning to build it with the stealthburner but you switched to the dragon burner, why? Was the stealthburner not good? Thanks for the video
The Stealthburner is fine, especially as a starting point if you're building a Voron for the first time. For me, it eventually hit a performance ceiling and I wanted less weight and better part cooling, so that's why I've switched.
@@gunplamark thanks for the reply 😊. I assembled a V0.2 last year and I built it with the dragon burner but I'm under the impression that cooling is still stopping me from going faster. It doesn't bother me much because I'm more for quality than speed. I was planning to add an extra cooling fan in the chamber of the Trident (bambulab style).
@@dazuio7175 The Mini Stealth (not mini stealthburner) toolhead should give an extra 20% increase in airflow compared to the Dragonburner. It uses extra air guides glued into the 4010 blowers to create a notably smoother path for the air flow.
Nice work. ALso those panels are glass or something else?
They're dark tinted acrylic. I got them from Mandala Rose Works.
I'm building my Voron 2.4 and need to trim my canbus cable. I'm trying to digure out how long I should go. I dont want to go too short to cause strain, nor do i want to go too long and have it flopping around. How did you gauge your length?
It depends on where the umbilical enters your enclosure, but for me I just moved the print head to the opposite corner, furthest away from the umbilical entry point, and then went with a length that leaves just a bit of slack at that distance.
I just upgraded my LDO 2.4R2 with a dragon burner, beacon and nitehawk 36. I haven't printed anything yet, but I've been playing around with the beacon probe. I am using the accessory usb port on the nitehawk I've done a handful of large bed meshes and have yet to experience a disconnect. To make my cable, I cut the usb pigtail that came with the nitehawk down to a little over an inch. I then chopped the end off of the cable that came with the beacon and spliced the two together. The beacon USB cable is shielded. I spliced 5V to 5V, D- to D1, D+ to D+, Gnd to Gnd, and I also gathered up the shield and spliced it to the extra ground wire from the nitehawk. If you didn't use a shielded cable, perhaps that's the issue?
After more testing, my issue turned out to be the long USB umbilical cable that came with the Nitehawk. I replaced it with a new umbilical cable that I made myself, and after that the pass thru USB from the Nitehawk to the Beacon has been working great.
Can you go into detail about what parts are on this dragon burner, and what 3d prints go together with it? I'm looking to upgrade away from SB to this same exact setup, but have no idea what I need.
The short answer is that I purchased a Phaetus Next G Drop Effect hotend, built the Wristwatch G2 extruder, and then used the LDO Nitehawk-36 and Beacon probe that are mentioned a lot in this episode. The longer, more complete answer will probably require a short video to go over how to find all the correct printed parts. I'll try to make that soon. Thanks for the question!
How do you mount to the X rail? Is it 9 or 7 mm rail? Mine is 9 and I don't know how to mount the Dragon burner on my trident with tap
The Dragon Burner repository has a bunch of different mounting parts. If you're running tap, you probably need one from here: github.com/chirpy2605/voron/tree/main/general/Alternative_Voron_Mounts/Modified_Mounts/Tap/STLs
That’s unfortunate about the USB chaining. I’ve got just about that same setup I want to do on my Trident, it’s built, I just need to install it
If you try a similar setup and manage to get it working, please let me know. I'll probably do some additional troubleshooting in the future whenever I decide that it's okay for my printer to have some down time.
I'm guessing voltage droop was your USB chaining problem. Try upping your conductor size through the umbilical and go back to the chaining. If you are able to measure voltage and even current then even better.
Good suggestion. I'm planning to revisit this when I have time and do more troubleshooting, so I'll definitely give that a try.
@@gunplamark awesome. Subscribed. Hope to see good results about it in a future video.