The Lawnmower Lady also posted a video but she cut grooves in the threaded rods to be able to use a screwdriver. She also swops them to get the gaskets lined up and then replaces the original bolts. Check it out.
I’ve been struggling with carb replacement on my Honda mower. I saw this video and ordered the all threads and gasket kit from Amazon. By putting the gaskets on the air cleaner and working back towards the block, you can’t really see where how to orient each gasket. This is ABSOLUTELY PERFECT. THANKS.
I wish I had watched this video early this morning. As it is, I wasted about 6 hours, and I think the language I used killed two oak trees and my neighbors pit bull dog. Thanks for a great video.
Beautiful job. Makes sense. Less time and frustration in the future. One thing I noticed that might need mentioning. The plastic spacer that goes next to the engine intake was installed backwards. I did the same thing on ours and discovered it ran better with square side facing in and round side facing out next to the carb.
Correct. Turn that spacer around so square side aligns to square side on manifold and round side aligns to round opening in carb/metal plate. Also, there is a small channel in the round side that should open downward. Check any expanded parts view for correct gasket order and orientation of parts. Otherwise - great hack!
OMG! what a great idea. I replaced my carburetor on my Honda lawn mower and it was challenging. If I have to replace the carb again I will use your method.
OH MY GOD! Who ever thought of this idea should get a gold medal. The frustration is over. Never understood why hardware stores don't stock metric threaded rod. They carry so much hardware nuts and bolt in metric and SAE, but have yet to add metric sized rods, REAL STRANGE. You are forced to purchase on the internet. I hope all Honda mower users come across this video, you won't be disappointed. Thanks for posting this video 2 years ago.
It's probably been mentioned already, but I would use the threaded rod for assembly only, removing one rod at a time and replacing it with the original bolt after everything is in place...no fussing with length and rod can be re-used on other machines. Thanks for the post.
@@yxcvmk "Danger" may be an overstatement, but connecting the air breather hose to the air filter cover is how you ensure that incoming air, necessary for any combustion engine, first passes through the mower's air filter. While mowing, a lot of dust and debris is kicked up by the blade, and clean air is important for engine longevity.
Great video! Thanks for sharing! I struggled all day cursing I needed 6 hands to manipulate 15 moving parts and after all was done a stretched out the governor and throttle springs. So it ended poorly with a malfunctioning pressure washer. Very clear quality and well explained!
Good video! I do pretty much the same thing with a few exceptions. I use the threaded rod to mount everything, then tighten at least one side nut down, then remove one of the threaded rods and replace it with the original Honda screw. Seems to work for me and I don't have to keep buying rod, nuts and having screws left over. By the way, found the 6 m threaded rod and nuts at a local Ace Hardware.
I just cleaned and replaced the carb on a Honda power washer, yesterday. I believe a sailor would have blushed from the language I was using... Thank you so much for this! I also have a Honda engine on my wood splitter, which also proved to be a pita. Thanks!
My old Harmony 215 mower from the 90's came with studs rather than bolts. This was pre-GCV. A few years ago, Honda introduced a clean-sheet re-design of the GCV series with the 170/200 iterations. That's when they went back to the studs.
Great idea! Thank you! I cut off the excessive plastic shroud around the air cleaner assembly, which made it still lousy, but doable with the original bolts.
Last night I almost threw the damn pressure washer through the wall trying to hold 6 things plus the governor rod after cleaning the carb up. Brilliant design having an air filter housing that funnels water in too.
Thanks, very well produced and easy to follow. I did this a few years ago trying to get everything in place with the standard bolts, that was a nightmare. Today I picked up threaded rods at ACE, no cutting needed. Took me 10 minutes.
I was in a hurry so I went to the hardware store and bought a pair of 6mm-1.00 x 100mm metric bolts and cut the heads off. I'll use those to mount everything and then swap them out for the OEM bolts. Maybe I'll even cut in a screwdriver slot as is mentioned in the comments here. Awesome idea, Thanks.
Hi guys, I am using the two M6 threaded rods which here in Sweden came together with our STIGA lawnmower 2005 modell (with GCV135). When everything is at place I fix the THIRD SMALL bolt first. It does the job to keep everything at place. Then you can replace the rods one by one with the original bolts.
I am not sure, but I think that in the video when assembling the carb, more or less backwards onto the threaded studs, did you not place the phenolic spacer on backwards? Placing the spacer with the drain hole down is correct, but the spacer needs to face the other gaskets with holes . Like I said, I'm not sure, but it will make a difference I believe.
I use a couple lengths of 3/16 steel brake lines. Put them in block holes start putting gaskets, spacers, carburetor, air cleaner on. Push on air filter housing towards engine. Wriggle the tubing pieces 1 at a time to align everything. Pull out one at a time put bolts in. This last summer worked on a near new one had studs.
Say what you want, but, Honda is THE BEST lawn mower I've ever run. And, my Honda mower is over 15 years old and NEVER let me down! Honda makes the BEST mowers!😊
Obviously you haven't upgraded to a recent engine! It started going bad when they went to an auto chock. I have 4 HR17's from various years and the old ones were far more dependable and easier to work on. My 22 year old hydrostatic drive has issues but it still works better than my 5 year old hydrostatic drive. Go figure. Neither one are designed for service but there are hacks. My 22 year old mower didn't need a carb repair for 10 to 15 years. My newer model needed one in 3. Like you, I love Honda but new is not always better.
I believe at 8:43 you put the first gasket on wrong. The bottom left should be on the bottom right side and the next item, the plastic "spacer" aka insulator, goes on with the square side facing the engine and the rounded side with the groove facing the carb side.
I did that some time ago and it works great. I did one addition thing. I used my Dremel and cut a slot into the outside end of the rod to allow use of a flat blade screwdriver to make it easier to screw the rods in or out as needed.
Looks as if spacer was installed backwards. Just saying. Love youre idea. I might try using threaded bolts as plce holders and put original bolts back.
Correct! It is always a good idea to refer to the exploded parts diagram for orientation because the last mechanic could have screwed it up. That stated, heuristically, the wider-end always faces the engine's intake port.
@@armchairtin-kicker503 I went through this and the diagrams are terrible. The only one that I could find was not quite my model and getting the gaskets on correctly took several tries. Thanks for the video. Another good one would be dealing with the gaskets with clear instructions and views. thanks
The one time that I repaired a Honda mower I wondered if that would work, I agree with you that those are the most frustrating engines to fix or replace a carburetor on,it took me multiple tries and much frustration to do.
I picked up a lawn mower on the side of the street that was a Honda bought a new carburetor and put it on per your instructions and it started right up thank you very much
Thanks Buck! This may be one of the best hacks I've come across. This made installation of a new carburetor on my GCV190 a snap. I actually found some M6 bolts at my local Ace Hardware in the nuts & bolts bins (90mm long I think). I just cut the heads off and filed that end a bit for the nuts to spin on easily. $3.29 each for the bolts and 0.29 for the nuts. AND I'm buying local! This made a world of difference!
Years ago I had the same frustration. Then I saw a service manual ( not the owners manual) and it showed a couple threaded studs with a part number. Ordered them and it worked out fine. However you had to put in the studs, build out the components, then remove 1 stud and put the bolt in then do the same for the other stud. I kinda like your method better as I don’t need to swap out the studs for the bolts.
I loved this video. Loved the frustrations. Great job. Got the bolts from amazon and gaskets as you did. I took one bolt out, measured it, cut the new rod to length considering the 2 new nuts and put it back in. Did the next one. Worked great. Then took the carburetor apart, cleaned it using another video and put it back with the new gaskets.
Great video. Just cured my issue with 3 of these Honda mower engines. My bolt holes in the block were pretty much stripped out so I retapped and used high temp lock tight which worked fine. Back to mowing. My problem was the old bolts kept working themselves loose and sucking gaskets. I don't think that will ever happen again. Thanks for the tip.
All those steel filing went right into the intake on the filter housing. I would have taped the intake on the housing and then used a Dremel tool with a cut off wheel to cut. Another way would have been to tighten one side of the bolts to keep everything in place and then remove the other (left or right) bolt and cut it to length. Put that back through through the carb and tighten it. Then remove the other bolt and do it as the first. Metal filing will ruin an engine so this way will correct that. Either way a good video but I would be cautious about grinding ant metal near the intake of the filter housing.
Thanks for the great instructions! I used wood dowlings of the same diameter instead of bolts to premount everything on, because I had a piece, and it worked fine.
Awesome video. Glad I watched this before I started replacing the carburetor on the same engine. I am stopped until I get the studs like the ones you used. Thank You again.
The same engine is on my power washer. Same frustration, but no outer metal plate and two less gaskets. I just used a couple of screwdrivers to line stuff up. But i like your solution better because it is semi permanent. FYI. to get the threaded rod length just lay the rod next to the bolts you removed and mark it
Great idea, I just did this with the two bolts and it was a balance nightmare. Only difference on mine is the autochoke going on instead of the spacer.
Nice idea. Cutting the rods on the machine is a risk of sending metal fragments into the carburetor. The when you start it up it gets pulled into the engine causing immediate damage.
Hi Buck, thanks for this video just been cleaning out a carb due to hunting. The process is a nightmare and took well over an hour to clean and somehow put back. Bad language and tools going up in the air not good. I have just ordered some m6 rod and bolts to try your idea. Keep up the good work all the best Pete Have a nice day
Thanks, Pete. Others have wisely suggested a process by which we use the threaded rod to hang all the components, and then, once all is in place remove them one by one and replace them with the original bolts. I've tried this, and it works well, with no need to keep buying threaded rod. That's a good tip if you end up working with many of these Honda engines, which all seem to hunt and surge eventually. Good luck.
Thank you Buck,I had the same idea of the threaded rod. I will try it tomorrow. I'm sure it will help with the frustration level with reattaching these carburetors.
At about 13:50 you tell us "Don't worry" about gasoline fumes being ignited. Good point. I'd worry about metal bits from the grinding that might fly into the carb and then into the engine when you start it. Mark the threaded rods, remove the filter housing, cover the carb opening (small rag or some sort of tape would work). Now do the grinding. You MIGHT need to use a 3-point file (or a metric die if you have one) to clean up the threads of the rod.
I own a Montgomery Wards Signature riding lawn mower built by MTD in the early 90's. As old and cheap as it is, believe it or not, it uses 2 threaded rods and they work great for this. It's amazing to me that Honda, known for all its technology, could not come up with this same solution whereas MTD, known for cutting every corner possible, did so. I'm guessing Honda figured they could save 75 cents per machine by doing it their way. Or maybe they thought they could make people take their machines into the nearest Honda dealer so as to keep them in the repair business.
Tried that, ended up too short due to bolts not bottoming out in motor threads, like the rods do. You will want to add a bit for that as well as a couple washers. The nuts have sharp edges that dig into the plastic air cleaner housing. Second time was a charm.
Wish I had seen this video last week, when I R&R the carb on a GCV160-powered mower. That's the definition of EXPERIENCE- what you get just AFTER you need it! Others noted the possibility of later removing the threaded rods. But as I reflected on my experience, it probably needed only one threaded rod to hang everything and snug down. The 2nd rod would be just for balance. It could be un-threaded rod, or a rod with ½" of threads ground off one end, which will temporarily engage in the other block bolt hole. When things are reasonably assembled, replace the unthreaded (etc.) first with the original bolt. Snug that, then replace the threaded stud with the other original bolt. And Bob's your uncle...
Thanks for the note. I think the idea of using the threaded rod temporarily, and then swapping it out for the original bolts, is the best idea. Thank you.
I thought the EXACT same thing when I took the carb off to clean mine!! I couldn’t believe what a nightmare it was to put the carb back on with all that stuff to put back on NIGHTMARE was right hahaha. Great tip im going to do this to mine. Wish Honda would do this!!
Not sure but thinking you put the black spacer on wrong side facing out towards carb . The face with machined channel should be facing out towards carb
Thanks ! ! I replaced a carb on my 190gblahblah honda a few years ago and it is time for another, if they weren't so inexpensive i'd try and fix it.. I had such a hard time installing it last time I was just shopping for a new mower but this video popped up from seemingly nowhere, no recent searching anything close to this, and now i'm in business ! I'm only upset I didn't think of this myself. THANKS !!!
Another bonus of doing this is that you can start the engine with the air filter off and make sure it's working as it should while you can get to parts make adjustments.
I use longer than needed M6 x 1 bolts and start building the carb assy from the outside in on the bolts. Then, since I have more length than I need I can visually insert the bolts into the block and turn them in a couple of threads. Then slide the carb firmly up to the block and hold it with one hand while replacing one of the too long bolts with the factory bolt. Then do the other replacement and the too long bolts (Ace Hardware) are ready for the next time.
Great video. But I struggled with it for an hour but my question is, I gotta go back together and start right up. But then it revs up to a high rpm. And stays a high a while cutting the grass. What would cause that?
You could have pre-cut the studs to be just a bit longer than the bolts, including the heads of the bolts. "A bit" should be the thickness of one of your nuts. Put the thread lock on, and install the stud hand tight. Then assemble the stack. You should end up with a bit more than two nut's worth of threads sticking out. Add your two nuts and tighten it all down. This puts the stud at the same depth as the original bolt. Remove the extra nut, and you are good to go.
What a great upload.....I have the exact Honda wet-dream carb linkage/gasket set up and have exhausted my vocabulary and am sitting in abject desperation at my computer. I'll fix mine the same way...............thanks.
Great video ! Absolutely a poor engineered nightmare 😂 I’ve done this for years as a heavy duty mechanic . Tricks of the trade I guess . You are the only person that has showed this and thanks .
Sorry, ive just replaced my carb and other items on my 3 yr old honda mower. ( bad gas in calif ) No problems at all. Its a breeze when you have 55 years experance i guess. Over engineered is how they make money after the sale. I use allthread posts. Just make a bunch ahead of time snd have in the tool box. I make the stuff 0:10 from old bolts and discarded parts. Old men do that sort of thing. Patients is the key. Edit to clarify, i replace the bolts with allthread and nuts. Easy to service each year.
Awesome comment! Others have suggested in the comments that you can use the threaded rod temporarily, and then, once all the components are in place, one by one replace the threaded rod with the original bolts. Pretty good idea.
@@Buckwsr I saw those comments. It’s something I decided to do while watching the video, before reading comments. Using the bolts with out the air filter housing, I was able to get all the gaskets aligned. Unfortunately every thousand-or-so times I (oh so carefully) removed the bolts to place the filter housing, one or more gasket would slip and, as you pointed out, you’re working blind once it goes into place. Thanks again!
i have the same honda carb set up on my mower. when i took it apart i noticed it only had one gasket, the space and the plate. the one gasket was very deteriorated so i wouldn't even say its good. My issue is the mower will start with one pull but surges a litttle up and down. could the fact that all these gaskets are missing could be casuing the uneven idle. I have new, plug, filter and gas.
What a cracking idea!!!! I have just done a carb clean doing it the way you done but just using the M6 rods as guides, five minute job now as opposed to all the frustration normally associated with this task..well done Buck. A little side note to anyone doing it the way you done....remember you might need two spacers for the filter housing, the Honda I have has bolts with the spacers on so if I done it your way Buck the housing would have been a bit floppy.
Thanks for the helpful hint....I have three Hondas that I have to deal with, two on pressure washers and one on the log splitter, so this is gonna save me some hair pulling for sure. Have to predict that Honda will come out with the threaded rod solution in a $250 kit very soon after seeing this video.
No need to go through all that trouble, just place the air cleaner body and all the gaskets and carburetor on to the mounting bolts then line the bolts up and slowly screw them back into place. Easy job. Additionally, if you choose to go that route measure the rods against the bolts and pre-cut them.
What a great idea. Took the frustration away. Sounds like your idle is running high, do you have a RPM gauge to check it? Otherwise go by the sound and adjust to your liking, Have a great day and thanks for posting this video.
Yeah I use the existing screws and line everything up or some long screwdrivers to keep everything aligned, prior to that I put the linkages on of course first then I slide everything on connect the fuel line, put on the outer cover and connect the PVC air hose breather then tighten everything up, good as a gold 🪙 penny 🤭, my babies a 1997 Honda Harmony II HRT 216 SDA, manual choke (only the best, not lazy with auto choke that wax piece that always fails) and just replaced my carburetor yesterday for the first time in 25 years baby, heck while I was doing that I went ahead and replaced the engine ignition coil thinking it's about time, and we're 🪙
They also exist outright but good luck finding them that long and cheap + available. Also the m6 x “”1.00”” is the thread pitch, which would be a standard unless the bastard WEF change that standard or screw with some regional manufacturers to eff everybody.
@@minar0x Or just use your bench grinder to knock the top of the threads down in that section. Notching the end of the stud for a slotted driver is a great idea...thanks.
I thread some rod with 1/2 inch of m6. I put them in and assemble it all. Then I put small bolt that hold air cleaner housing to bracket. Holding it tight also I remove one of my rods and insert original bolt. Then remove second rod and install original bolt.
Thanks very much for this, but... Did you have to edit this video, whilst you removed the carb and refitted the gasket (originally installed at 8m56sec in) the correct way round? If doing this again, wouldn't you bung up the intake whilst grinding off the threads? Just wondering...
I don’t understand why Honda made their carburetors so darn difficult to install. I dread doing maintenance on my small gas motors just for this reason. I came across your video and said to myself you’re an idiot for not thinking of this 😂. Removing it all is a piece of cake, but putting it back is a nightmare. Thanks for your wisdom & showing us the way.
Rods for guides then original bolts after assembly to hold filter housing properly. Don't forget to connect ALL the hoses and to clamp properly where needed.
I took it a step further and used good ol 6mm rod instead of threaded rod. I threaded the end about 1 cm (so it wouldn't bottom out) I didn't like the idea of the threaded sections rubbing on the gaskets and carburetor body, so I used the plain rod instead. Cut to side, threaded otherr end, boom. So much frustration gone. I leave it in too. I use red loctite on the motor side
SWEET IDEA! What you could do instead of using the two nut method to put in the rod if you have a small dig grinder with a cut off wheel you could put a small slit at the end of the ready rod. That way you could get a slotted screwdriver into the end of the ready rod, just as if it was the regular bolts. That way you could tighten it up take one piece of the ready rod out while the other piece is holding the carburetter assembly, secure, and then slip in the old bolt and then do the same thing for the other side. That way you're not going through so much ready rod, and having to do all the extra work, you could make reusable dowels by simply cutting a small slit at the end and then you could have it already cut to the right length. I've used a similar method for installing transmissions on a large truck in order to line up the transmission housing with the engine housing. I'm not sure if you mentioned what length of rod they need to be but I'm guessing it would just be about the same as the bolts that were in there as what I would cut them out but a bit longer. Once we have the assembly tight, you could also use a tiedown strap and tighten it up around the carburetter assembly or the Honda sandwich in order to keep it from moving and then put your old bolts back in the spots in order to Not have to replenish your ready rod stock.
Dang it, Buck, where were you 7 months ago when I had to replace the thermowax choke actuator in my HRX217 mower - by myself. What a nightmare putting this back together. Anyway, while I may not have replaced mine with permanently mounted screws, I could see temporarily adding them for the parts assembly alignment, then removing one, replacing it with the real bolt, then swapping the other. Another viewer commented that he used dowels as the temporary guides, but it would make more sense to just screw in the bolts temporarily as the guides. Thanks anyway.
That's a great plan...to use the studs temporarily and then replace them one at a time with the original bolts. Others have suggested that to me as well.
The Lawnmower Lady also posted a video but she cut grooves in the threaded rods to be able to use a screwdriver. She also swops them to get the gaskets lined up and then replaces the original bolts. Check it out.
Yes, I have learned to use the threaded rod temporarily and then swap them out for the original bolts. That makes very good sense. Thank you.
I’ve been struggling with carb replacement on my Honda mower. I saw this video and ordered the all threads and gasket kit from Amazon. By putting the gaskets on the air cleaner and working back towards the block, you can’t really see where how to orient each gasket. This is ABSOLUTELY PERFECT. THANKS.
I wish I had watched this video early this morning. As it is, I wasted about 6 hours, and I think the language I used killed two oak trees and my neighbors pit bull dog. Thanks for a great video.
Same here man 🤣. There’s always a more effective and efficient way to do things. Now we can pass on this sweet knowledge.
Beautiful job. Makes sense. Less time and frustration in the future. One thing I noticed that might need mentioning. The plastic spacer that goes next to the engine intake was installed backwards. I did the same thing on ours and discovered it ran better with square side facing in and round side facing out next to the carb.
noticed that too as I just removed my carbie today and it was other way from factory .
TY for this tip as I am attempting to install my new carb 2moro. I'll keep this in mind!!
Correct. Turn that spacer around so square side aligns to square side on manifold and round side aligns to round opening in carb/metal plate. Also, there is a small channel in the round side that should open downward. Check any expanded parts view for correct gasket order and orientation of parts. Otherwise - great hack!
OMG! what a great idea. I replaced my carburetor on my Honda lawn mower and it was challenging. If I have to replace the carb again I will use your method.
OH MY GOD! Who ever thought of this idea should get a gold medal. The frustration is over. Never understood why hardware stores don't stock metric threaded rod. They carry so much hardware nuts and bolt in metric and SAE, but have yet to add metric sized rods, REAL STRANGE. You are forced to purchase on the internet. I hope all Honda mower users come across this video, you won't be disappointed. Thanks for posting this video 2 years ago.
It's probably been mentioned already, but I would use the threaded rod for assembly only, removing one rod at a time and replacing it with the original bolt after everything is in place...no fussing with length and rod can be re-used on other machines. Thanks for the post.
I agree!
That's a great idea as far as I can see it, especially since the threaded rods often are way softer than a specific screw.
I realize threaded rods are only as hard as a non heat treated bolt, but I Really doubt it's going to fail holding a 1 ounce carb on this engine ?
Hope you remember to hook up the crankcase breather hose
You hope that why? Is there any danger if not connected?
@@yxcvmk "Danger" may be an overstatement, but connecting the air breather hose to the air filter cover is how you ensure that incoming air, necessary for any combustion engine, first passes through the mower's air filter. While mowing, a lot of dust and debris is kicked up by the blade, and clean air is important for engine longevity.
Great video! Thanks for sharing! I struggled all day cursing I needed 6 hands to manipulate 15 moving parts and after all was done a stretched out the governor and throttle springs. So it ended poorly with a malfunctioning pressure washer.
Very clear quality and well explained!
Good video! I do pretty much the same thing with a few exceptions. I use the threaded rod to mount everything, then tighten at least one side nut down, then remove one of the threaded rods and replace it with the original Honda screw. Seems to work for me and I don't have to keep buying rod, nuts and having screws left over. By the way, found the 6 m threaded rod and nuts at a local Ace Hardware.
Thanks, Lawrence. I like your strategy a lot! Good tip.
Did the same thing. It's the way to go if you don't want to cut bolts or have a grinder.
This is how I've seen it done on another channel. It allows them to use the same rod over and over on different engines.
Cut a slot in the end of the threaded rod. You can screw it in and out. You don't need any nuts
A great idea and fix! Cudos to the inventor. The Honda engineers really did not think this one through.
This is one brilliant video, step by step, and no nonsense. Fantastic job, expertly described and a very clear video.
I just cleaned and replaced the carb on a Honda power washer, yesterday. I believe a sailor would have blushed from the language I was using... Thank you so much for this! I also have a Honda engine on my wood splitter, which also proved to be a pita. Thanks!
My old Harmony 215 mower from the 90's came with studs rather than bolts. This was pre-GCV. A few years ago, Honda introduced a clean-sheet re-design of the GCV series with the 170/200 iterations. That's when they went back to the studs.
Great idea! Thank you! I cut off the excessive plastic shroud around the air cleaner assembly, which made it still lousy, but doable with the original bolts.
Last night I almost threw the damn pressure washer through the wall trying to hold 6 things plus the governor rod after cleaning the carb up. Brilliant design having an air filter housing that funnels water in too.
I feel your pain! Thanks for watching the video.
Thanks, very well produced and easy to follow. I did this a few years ago trying to get everything in place with the standard bolts, that was a nightmare. Today I picked up threaded rods at ACE, no cutting needed. Took me 10 minutes.
Worked perfect. Thanks for the tips! Threaded steel rods worked perfect. I just used 1/4 x20 rod and it worked well.
I was in a hurry so I went to the hardware store and bought a pair of 6mm-1.00 x 100mm metric bolts and cut the heads off. I'll use those to mount everything and then swap them out for the OEM bolts. Maybe I'll even cut in a screwdriver slot as is mentioned in the comments here. Awesome idea, Thanks.
I feel better knowing that others had the same frustrations I have. Great tip and video.
Hi guys, I am using the two M6 threaded rods which here in Sweden came together with our STIGA lawnmower 2005 modell (with GCV135). When everything is at place I fix the THIRD SMALL bolt first. It does the job to keep everything at place. Then you can replace the rods one by one with the original bolts.
I am not sure, but I think that in the video when assembling the carb, more or less backwards onto the threaded studs, did you not place the phenolic spacer on backwards? Placing the spacer with the drain hole down is correct, but the spacer needs to face the other gaskets with holes . Like I said, I'm not sure, but it will make a difference I believe.
Yes he fs did
I use a couple lengths of 3/16 steel brake lines. Put them in block holes start putting gaskets, spacers, carburetor, air cleaner on. Push on air filter housing towards engine. Wriggle the tubing pieces 1 at a time to align everything. Pull out one at a time put bolts in. This last summer worked on a near new one had studs.
brillant .... a very elegant solution .... and thank you to the chap who found the threaded rod at an Ace Hardware store.
Glad it worked well for you, Fred!
fantastic video! i estimate it would take at least 2 beers to complete this job. thanks for the links. i'm ordering my parts.
Say what you want, but, Honda is THE BEST lawn mower I've ever run.
And, my Honda mower is over 15 years old and NEVER let me down!
Honda makes the BEST mowers!😊
Obviously you haven't upgraded to a recent engine! It started going bad when they went to an auto chock. I have 4 HR17's from various years and the old ones were far more dependable and easier to work on. My 22 year old hydrostatic drive has issues but it still works better than my 5 year old hydrostatic drive. Go figure. Neither one are designed for service but there are hacks. My 22 year old mower didn't need a carb repair for 10 to 15 years. My newer model needed one in 3. Like you, I love Honda but new is not always better.
It's a great idea , and makes it A LOT easier . I've been doing it for about five years
I believe at 8:43 you put the first gasket on wrong. The bottom left should be on the bottom right side and the next item, the plastic "spacer" aka insulator, goes on with the square side facing the engine and the rounded side with the groove facing the carb side.
I did that some time ago and it works great.
I did one addition thing. I used my Dremel and cut a slot into the outside end of the rod to allow use of a flat blade screwdriver to make it easier to screw the rods in or out as needed.
Looks as if spacer was installed backwards. Just saying. Love youre idea. I might try using threaded bolts as plce holders and put original bolts back.
Looked that way to me also!
Correct! It is always a good idea to refer to the exploded parts diagram for orientation because the last mechanic could have screwed it up. That stated, heuristically, the wider-end always faces the engine's intake port.
@@armchairtin-kicker503 I went through this and the diagrams are terrible. The only one that I could find was not quite my model and getting the gaskets on correctly took several tries. Thanks for the video. Another good one would be dealing with the gaskets with clear instructions and views.
thanks
The one time that I repaired a Honda mower I wondered if that would work, I agree with you that those are the most frustrating engines to fix or replace a carburetor on,it took me multiple tries and much frustration to do.
I picked up a lawn mower on the side of the street that was a Honda bought a new carburetor and put it on per your instructions and it started right up thank you very much
Thanks Buck! This may be one of the best hacks I've come across. This made installation of a new carburetor on my GCV190 a snap. I actually found some M6 bolts at my local Ace Hardware in the nuts & bolts bins (90mm long I think). I just cut the heads off and filed that end a bit for the nuts to spin on easily. $3.29 each for the bolts and 0.29 for the nuts. AND I'm buying local! This made a world of difference!
Years ago I had the same frustration. Then I saw a service manual ( not the owners manual) and it showed a couple threaded studs with a part number. Ordered them and it worked out fine. However you had to put in the studs, build out the components, then remove 1 stud and put the bolt in then do the same for the other stud. I kinda like your method better as I don’t need to swap out the studs for the bolts.
I've learned to just swap out the temporary studs with the original bolts. Keeps me from having to buy more and more threaded rod....
Manifold gasket and manifold are backwards. May or may not surge. I like the idea of the studs.
Thanks.
I loved this video. Loved the frustrations. Great job. Got the bolts from amazon and gaskets as you did. I took one bolt out, measured it, cut the new rod to length considering the 2 new nuts and put it back in. Did the next one. Worked great. Then took the carburetor apart, cleaned it using another video and put it back with the new gaskets.
Great video. Just cured my issue with 3 of these Honda mower engines. My bolt holes in the block were pretty much stripped out so I retapped and used high temp lock tight which worked fine. Back to mowing. My problem was the old bolts kept working themselves loose and sucking gaskets. I don't think that will ever happen again. Thanks for the tip.
All those steel filing went right into the intake on the filter housing. I would have taped the intake on the housing and then used a Dremel tool with a cut off wheel to cut. Another way would have been to tighten one side of the bolts to keep everything in place and then remove the other (left or right) bolt and cut it to length. Put that back through through the carb and tighten it. Then remove the other bolt and do it as the first. Metal filing will ruin an engine so this way will correct that. Either way a good video but I would be cautious about grinding ant metal near the intake of the filter housing.
I enjoyed watching the video. Poor guy made me laugh at the end, no gas. I have that problem sometimes in the morning getting up, no gas. lol
Thanks for the great instructions! I used wood dowlings of the same diameter instead of bolts to premount everything on, because I had a piece, and it worked fine.
Awesome video. Glad I watched this before I started replacing the carburetor on the same engine. I am stopped until I get the studs like the ones you used. Thank You again.
Thanks!
The same engine is on my power washer. Same frustration, but no outer metal plate and two less gaskets.
I just used a couple of screwdrivers to line stuff up. But i like your solution better because it is semi permanent.
FYI. to get the threaded rod length just lay the rod next to the bolts you removed and mark it
Great idea, I just did this with the two bolts and it was a balance nightmare. Only difference on mine is the autochoke going on instead of the spacer.
Great idea, I didn't see you hook up the hose on the back side of the air cleaner.
Great video and thank you! I replaced the carb and all the gaskets and it started first pull! Runs very strong now.
Nice idea. Cutting the rods on the machine is a risk of sending metal fragments into the carburetor. The when you start it up it gets pulled into the engine causing immediate damage.
Could I put a rag over the hole to prevent that,just saying.
Hi Buck, thanks for this video just been cleaning out a carb due to hunting. The process is a nightmare and took well over an hour to clean and somehow put back. Bad language and tools going up in the air not good.
I have just ordered some m6 rod and bolts to try your idea.
Keep up the good work all the best Pete
Have a nice day
Thanks, Pete. Others have wisely suggested a process by which we use the threaded rod to hang all the components, and then, once all is in place remove them one by one and replace them with the original bolts. I've tried this, and it works well, with no need to keep buying threaded rod. That's a good tip if you end up working with many of these Honda engines, which all seem to hunt and surge eventually. Good luck.
Thank you Buck,I had the same idea of the threaded rod. I will try it tomorrow. I'm sure it will help with the frustration level with reattaching these carburetors.
At about 13:50 you tell us "Don't worry" about gasoline fumes being ignited. Good point.
I'd worry about metal bits from the grinding that might fly into the carb and then into the engine when you start it.
Mark the threaded rods, remove the filter housing, cover the carb opening (small rag or some sort of tape would work). Now do the grinding. You MIGHT need to use a 3-point file (or a metric die if you have one) to clean up the threads of the rod.
I own a Montgomery Wards Signature riding lawn mower built by MTD in the early 90's. As old and cheap as it is, believe it or not, it uses 2 threaded rods and they work great for this. It's amazing to me that Honda, known for all its technology, could not come up with this same solution whereas MTD, known for cutting every corner possible, did so. I'm guessing Honda figured they could save 75 cents per machine by doing it their way. Or maybe they thought they could make people take their machines into the nearest Honda dealer so as to keep them in the repair business.
Couldn't you use the bolt as a measure for the length of the threaded rod?
Tried that, ended up too short due to bolts not bottoming out in motor threads, like the rods do. You will want to add a bit for that as well as a couple washers. The nuts have sharp edges that dig into the plastic air cleaner housing. Second time was a charm.
Wish I had seen this video last week, when I R&R the carb on a GCV160-powered mower. That's the definition of EXPERIENCE- what you get just AFTER you need it!
Others noted the possibility of later removing the threaded rods. But as I reflected on my experience, it probably needed only one threaded rod to hang everything and snug down. The 2nd rod would be just for balance. It could be un-threaded rod, or a rod with ½" of threads ground off one end, which will temporarily engage in the other block bolt hole. When things are reasonably assembled, replace the unthreaded (etc.) first with the original bolt. Snug that, then replace the threaded stud with the other original bolt. And Bob's your uncle...
Thanks for the note. I think the idea of using the threaded rod temporarily, and then swapping it out for the original bolts, is the best idea. Thank you.
I thought the EXACT same thing when I took the carb off to clean mine!! I couldn’t believe what a nightmare it was to put the carb back on with all that stuff to put back on NIGHTMARE was right hahaha. Great tip im going to do this to mine. Wish Honda would do this!!
Not sure but thinking you put the black spacer on wrong side facing out towards carb . The face with machined channel should be facing out towards carb
You’re right
Did you miss re-attaching the breather hose behind the air box?
Thanks ! ! I replaced a carb on my 190gblahblah honda a few years ago and it is time for another, if they weren't so inexpensive i'd try and fix it.. I had such a hard time installing it last time I was just shopping for a new mower but this video popped up from seemingly nowhere, no recent searching anything close to this, and now i'm in business !
I'm only upset I didn't think of this myself. THANKS !!!
Great instructive video, thanks. I use plastic tubing as guides then remove after assembly to be replaced by the screws.
Another bonus of doing this is that you can start the engine with the air filter off and make sure it's working as it should while you can get to parts make adjustments.
I use longer than needed M6 x 1 bolts and start building the carb assy from the outside in on the bolts. Then, since I have more length than I need I can visually insert the bolts into the block and turn them in a couple of threads. Then slide the carb firmly up to the block and hold it with one hand while replacing one of the too long bolts with the factory bolt. Then do the other replacement and the too long bolts (Ace Hardware) are ready for the next time.
Yes, great. I like that. Good technique. Thanks
Great video. But I struggled with it for an hour but my question is, I gotta go back together and start right up. But then it revs up to a high rpm. And stays a high a while cutting the grass. What would cause that?
You are right! It's VERY frustrating! This solves the puzzle.
You could have pre-cut the studs to be just a bit longer than the bolts, including the heads of the bolts. "A bit" should be the thickness of one of your nuts. Put the thread lock on, and install the stud hand tight. Then assemble the stack. You should end up with a bit more than two nut's worth of threads sticking out. Add your two nuts and tighten it all down. This puts the stud at the same depth as the original bolt. Remove the extra nut, and you are good to go.
Nice and extremely useful hack, saves the frustration, enjoyed this video!
Hey Buck I finally did this on a abandoned GCV190 your absolutely right....no cursing...I didn't do the sealant just put the bolts in..
Nice job, Matt!
What a great upload.....I have the exact Honda wet-dream carb linkage/gasket set up and have exhausted my vocabulary and am sitting in abject desperation at my computer. I'll fix mine the same way...............thanks.
Great video ! Absolutely a poor engineered nightmare 😂 I’ve done this for years as a heavy duty mechanic . Tricks of the trade I guess . You are the only person that has showed this and thanks .
Sorry, ive just replaced my carb and other items on my 3 yr old honda mower. ( bad gas in calif )
No problems at all.
Its a breeze when you have 55 years experance i guess.
Over engineered is how they make money after the sale. I use allthread posts. Just make a bunch ahead of time snd have in the tool box. I make the stuff 0:10 from old bolts and discarded parts. Old men do that sort of thing.
Patients is the key.
Edit to clarify,
i replace the bolts with allthread and nuts. Easy to service each year.
Great tips! Thanks for the note.
That is a great idea, I too have struggled with Honda carbs. I am ordering those rods today. Thanks for the video.
Exceptional problem solving. Thanks for sharing.
Thank you so much for sharing this as i have one that i dreaded doing and have ordered all i need to do it this easy way ! God Bless You Sir !
THANK YOU! Four hours of teeth grinding, profanity laced frustration were ended with this video.
Awesome comment! Others have suggested in the comments that you can use the threaded rod temporarily, and then, once all the components are in place, one by one replace the threaded rod with the original bolts. Pretty good idea.
@@Buckwsr I saw those comments. It’s something I decided to do while watching the video, before reading comments. Using the bolts with out the air filter housing, I was able to get all the gaskets aligned. Unfortunately every thousand-or-so times I (oh so carefully) removed the bolts to place the filter housing, one or more gasket would slip and, as you pointed out, you’re working blind once it goes into place. Thanks again!
i have the same honda carb set up on my mower. when i took it apart i noticed it only had one gasket, the space and the plate. the one gasket was very deteriorated so i wouldn't even say its good. My issue is the mower will start with one pull but surges a litttle up and down. could the fact that all these gaskets are missing could be casuing the uneven idle. I have new, plug, filter and gas.
Awesome tip. I believe you can also use the Chinese clones studs as well. I have not tried, but I don't usually fix any Hondas.
Later...
What a cracking idea!!!!
I have just done a carb clean doing it the way you done but just using the M6 rods as guides, five minute job now as opposed to all the frustration normally associated with this task..well done Buck.
A little side note to anyone doing it the way you done....remember you might need two spacers for the filter housing, the Honda I have has bolts with the spacers on so if I done it your way Buck the housing would have been a bit floppy.
Hey, do you have a picture of where those spacers are on? I dropped mine and now don't know where to put them.
@@Sokratic1 they fit into the filter housing
Thanks for the helpful hint....I have three Hondas that I have to deal with, two on pressure washers and one on the log splitter, so this is gonna save me some hair pulling for sure. Have to predict that Honda will come out with the threaded rod solution in a $250 kit very soon after seeing this video.
You rock thanks I followed your instructions my mower started right away! Thx!!!
This solved my problem and frustration with my Honda mower. Thanks.
No need to go through all that trouble, just place the air cleaner body and all the gaskets and carburetor on to the mounting bolts then line the bolts up and slowly screw them back into place. Easy job. Additionally, if you choose to go that route measure the rods against the bolts and pre-cut them.
I'd say the overall response to this video suggests strongly that most of us do NOT find it to be an easy job, but rather quite a frustration.
Very creative, well done. I cleaned my carburator today and struggled to put everything back, next time I do the same as you! Greetings from Belgium.
Thanks so much, and good luck with your machines!
I thought the studs were stainless? Why does it spark when you’re cutting them? I thought stainless didn’t spark when grinding/cutting?
What a great idea. Took the frustration away. Sounds like your idle is running high, do you have a RPM gauge to check it? Otherwise go by the sound and adjust to your liking, Have a great day and thanks for posting this video.
I USE WOODEN DOWELS. PUT EVERY THING ON , HOLD TIGHT TO ENGINE REMOVE DOWEL AND PUT BOLT IN. THIS IS BAD DESIGN THOUGH
Great tip. Thank you!
I use 3/16 steel brake line. Same principal
@Buckwsr use the dowl or I use steel brake line. No buying supplies
Yeah I use the existing screws and line everything up or some long screwdrivers to keep everything aligned, prior to that I put the linkages on of course first then I slide everything on connect the fuel line, put on the outer cover and connect the PVC air hose breather then tighten everything up, good as a gold 🪙 penny 🤭, my babies a 1997 Honda Harmony II HRT 216 SDA, manual choke (only the best, not lazy with auto choke that wax piece that always fails) and just replaced my carburetor yesterday for the first time in 25 years baby, heck while I was doing that I went ahead and replaced the engine ignition coil thinking it's about time, and we're 🪙
Good idea!
We did things like this in industrial mechanics.
Great alternative tips in the comments
Thanks
Genius! The people who engineer these set ups do not have to fix them.
Grind some flat head notches on the end to enable a flat head to screw in your rods.
They also exist outright but good luck finding them that long and cheap + available.
Also the m6 x “”1.00”” is the thread pitch, which would be a standard unless the bastard WEF change that standard or screw with some regional manufacturers to eff everybody.
Run some heat resistant caulk/hot glue/paint/nail polish over the useless threads to avoid cutting up gaskets.
That's actually a very good idea!
@@minar0x Or just use your bench grinder to knock the top of the threads down in that section. Notching the end of the stud for a slotted driver is a great idea...thanks.
I thread some rod with 1/2 inch of m6. I put them in and assemble it all. Then I put small bolt that hold air cleaner housing to bracket. Holding it tight also I remove one of my rods and insert original bolt. Then remove second rod and install original bolt.
Yes, makes perfect sense. Then you don't have to keep buying threaded rod again and again.
Hey Buck glad I didn't order those thread rod but my bolts are different.
Thanks very much for this, but...
Did you have to edit this video, whilst you removed the carb and refitted the gasket (originally installed at 8m56sec in) the correct way round?
If doing this again, wouldn't you bung up the intake whilst grinding off the threads? Just wondering...
I don’t understand why Honda made their carburetors so darn difficult to install. I dread doing maintenance on my small gas motors just for this reason. I came across your video and said to myself you’re an idiot for not thinking of this 😂. Removing it all is a piece of cake, but putting it back is a nightmare. Thanks for your wisdom & showing us the way.
It done on purpose to discourage DIYers
Rods for guides then original bolts after assembly to hold filter housing properly. Don't forget to connect ALL the hoses and to clamp properly where needed.
Smart idea. Hope you cleaned the air filter plastic and protected the intake when you used the angle grinder, becouse of small particles.
I took it a step further and used good ol 6mm rod instead of threaded rod. I threaded the end about 1 cm (so it wouldn't bottom out) I didn't like the idea of the threaded sections rubbing on the gaskets and carburetor body, so I used the plain rod instead. Cut to side, threaded otherr end, boom. So much frustration gone. I leave it in too. I use red loctite on the motor side
SWEET IDEA! What you could do instead of using the two nut method to put in the rod if you have a small dig grinder with a cut off wheel you could put a small slit at the end of the ready rod. That way you could get a slotted screwdriver into the end of the ready rod, just as if it was the regular bolts. That way you could tighten it up take one piece of the ready rod out while the other piece is holding the carburetter assembly, secure, and then slip in the old bolt and then do the same thing for the other side. That way you're not going through so much ready rod, and having to do all the extra work, you could make reusable dowels by simply cutting a small slit at the end and then you could have it already cut to the right length. I've used a similar method for installing transmissions on a large truck in order to line up the transmission housing with the engine housing. I'm not sure if you mentioned what length of rod they need to be but I'm guessing it would just be about the same as the bolts that were in there as what I would cut them out but a bit longer. Once we have the assembly tight, you could also use a tiedown strap and tighten it up around the carburetter assembly or the Honda sandwich in order to keep it from moving and then put your old bolts back in the spots in order to Not have to replenish your ready rod stock.
Yeah that carb replacement is a PITA. Great idea! Thanks
Dang it, Buck, where were you 7 months ago when I had to replace the thermowax choke actuator in my HRX217 mower - by myself. What a nightmare putting this back together. Anyway, while I may not have replaced mine with permanently mounted screws, I could see temporarily adding them for the parts assembly alignment, then removing one, replacing it with the real bolt, then swapping the other. Another viewer commented that he used dowels as the temporary guides, but it would make more sense to just screw in the bolts temporarily as the guides. Thanks anyway.
That's a great plan...to use the studs temporarily and then replace them one at a time with the original bolts. Others have suggested that to me as well.
Great video how many hours I wasted with stress levels though the roof.. order rod today.
Well done 👍🏼 wish I would have seen this a few weeks ago 🤦♂️😆👍🏼
I didn’t see you hook up air line. I would plug carb intake before cutting rod. Small fragments can cause problems
What were the length of the studs in the end? I’ll just buy precut ones
I would add the appropiate dye (M6X1.00) on the rod before cutting it so as to clean up the rod making it much easier to put the nut on.