Mowing my yard....the mower quit. I was looking at between 200-650 to fix/replace the mower. This was the most in depth demonstration of how to do this I was able to find. I watched this video several times and kept chopping wood so to speak. Thanks to you and this video I was able to trace the multiple issues and fixed them. It is now up and running and my yard is mowed! Thank you.
THIS is the HRX217 video I wish I'd had years ago when I started working on mine. I'm gonna go through this process because it's not starting this spring, and this is the only video I've found that covers all the speed, calibration, and choke info.
I took the carb off to clean it due to a hunting issue and this really helped me to see the correct reassembly process. This was the first time I ever tried it on this mower too. I've been lucky and the old Honda has run well for many years. Thanks for the video!
I set up my iPad next to my work area and followed along, step by step, to fix my 8+ year old Honda HRX217 mower that was surging at idle. The explanation of which seal goes where and in what order was worth its weight in gold! I replaced the carburetor, springs, thermowax, fuel filter, and even the fixed wire linkage to the carb. I couldn’t quite follow the very last step with the governor arm, but loosened the nut pushed it all back, while holding the pivot as shown in the video and re-tightened the nut. Started on the first pull! No leaks. A smile crossed my face. Satisfaction… My mower ran well at idle, so I didn’t adjust the screw on the carburetor. Would be interested to learn how to measure idle to check against specs. I feel like I have a new mower now. This is a great video, you have provided a great service to a great many people, and I sincerely appreciate it and thank you! Very well done, Sir!
I just snagged a Craftsman mower off a tree lawn. Has the Honda 160 engine with the auto choke. It was filthy dirty but the deck was good. Pulled through okay and it had oil. Took it home and gave it a good cleaning. Got it to work after about 15 minutes, auto choke works fine. Winterized it and will give it a full detail and service in the Spring.
Thank you. This is one of the most complete videos I’ve come across. Mines been having a slight surge and has been challenging to get it started when cold due to it missing one of the straight springs.
I had a stuck choke and decided to try to bypass it. I opened the air cleaner and used a screwdriver to push on the choke. With a moderate amount of pressure, the choke butterfly plate snapped open. Afterwards the mower ran great. Before doing a deep dive and start replacing parts, I would suggest using a screwdriver to manually unstick the choke. This may not be a long term fix, but it worked for me today.
I was glad to see you used OEM parts from a nearby Honda Powersports dealer. I called my hometown Honda dealer here in rural Missouri and he was very agreeable to ordering the parts from Honda and letting me stop by and pick them up. Great tip! Thanks!
Very well done video. Clear and easy to follow. Helps to confirm what I'm doing with my HRR2169VLA, which looks pretty much the same other than the (non-existent) throttle control. As much as I used to bash B&S engines in the past (my 1991 Craftsman Riding mower, purchased new, still has the original engine and it runs well), my Honda mower has forced me to endlessly tinker with surging throttle, stalling when hot, won't restart hot, etc. At this point, the wax plug choke thingy is the only thing I haven't replaced. Now that I've seen this video, that comes next...
Don't overlook a couple of things that will cause it to surge first thing is the carburetor is supposed to have a larger main jet! Since the engine is a 190 it is going to need more fuel then the carburetor that goes to a 160GVC. Next, a clogged slow speed jet/Piolot jet will cause it to surge.
So glad I found this video. I was wondering if there was a easier way to line everything up when putting it back together. I never thought of taking the control bracket off too. My choke has been hanging off. It sometimes binds up. It needs some type of lubricant on the spring on top I'm guessing.
Trash in the idle circuit is generally the cause of the surging. I've watched quite a few people on TH-cam "Clean" these Honda carbs and not even remove the screw (on top of the carb) that covers that jet. The problem doesn't go away, so they play with the governor for a bit, then give up and get a new carb when it really wasn't necessary. I've had people bring me mowers the same way around here. They took it to a shop, they cleaned the carb , played with the governor, and the surging didn't go away. Cleaning the idle/low speed circuit has fixed the surging issue every time for me. The Auto-choke problem, not starting when hot, has me a bit stumped, even though everything "seems" to be working as intended. The durn thing (my personal mower) will start with the flick of the wrist when cold. But stop to move something or any reason at all, and the thing may try to start and putt like an old Tin Lizzy for a while and give up or not start at all. I've already replaced the Thermowax so it's probably the updated assembly that you show here. Thanks for the video!
Great video, this should save me that $85 shop fee at the local Honda dealer. Just for the hell of it go ahead and clean the airbox and all other components of loose dirt before reassembly.
I had the same issue some years back with my Honda GCV190... I kept cleaning my carb with no success, but it turned out the surging was the idle jet was very very clogged. Ending up using a mini drill to clear out the idle jet and made the whole a bit bigger... and it worked
Thanks for the comment Chris, I have had luck using a welding tip cleaner some times as well. Same as yours, whatever was stuck in it was REALLY stuck!
Thanks. I re-jetted my HRX2173HYA for high altitude since it always ran rich and chugging a little. I had no idea how this auto choke worked or that it was possibly my main cause of the problems. After I replaced my jet things seemed to get worse when I put it together and had me scratching my head. My thermo wax part was about a 3/8 round job. I have the parts on order. In the meantime I stuffed a couple small nuts into the choke assembly to keep it wide open so I could mow my lawn. It worked! With the new jet my mower runs smoother and seems to have more power like when it was new.
After getting things up to snuff I now have to wait for the engine to warm up for a few minutes and the auto choke to kick in. After that it runs like a top. Next spring I'm removing the auto choke garbage and making this a manual choke. Word to the wise.
I believe you are missing 2 gaskets @11:56. This is what is causing the throttle to stick. (When you mention the throttle sticks @16:46 "it catches with the auto choke") There should be 2 small gaskets sandwiching the large rectangular gasket (which is called the air guide) To clarify, this means you should have a total of 3 gaskets between the carburetor and the plastic auto choke assembly @11:56 The 2 gaskets you are missing is 'Honda 16221883800 Carburetor Gasket' (If you google that part number, you will notice their holes are the same of the air guide (the large rectangle gasket). (I would post a link to a diagram but TH-cam blocks my comment when I include the link) Great video though! It is thorough and detailed.
Hi Sypex…I have a question about all those gaskets you mentioned. I have pulled my GVC160 carb 2x and cleaned it thoroughly. I replaced the thermowax. The engine starts perfectly and runs fine for approx 3 mins but after it gets hot it surges under load. Then it fails miserably to restart and chugs and wheezes and spits black smoke. So I researched the cause and someone cited an air leak due to improper gasket application. So they suggested shooting carb cleaner into the intake and I f the engine stalls you have an air leak…which might be my case since I swear I Don’t have all those gaskets installed. Thoughts??
@@Fresh-tw7ev This was exactly my issue. I replaced the carb with a new(remanufactured) one however it did not come with the gaskets mentioned. I had the same exact issue as you. I later returned the carb that was missing the gaskets and bought another one that included the other 2 gaskets. I had a much more stable experience after those were installed. (Another thing to note is the new kit I received also had a Thermowax piston that was DOA. Maybe also check that your piston is functioning. I just reused the one that one preciously installed) I swear the smallest vacuum leak on those things make them super temperamental.
@@sypex6873 thanks so much. Yes I replaced the thermowax piston a week ago and it’s working properly. A properly working thermowax when engine is stone cold is the “piston in” which will then show the choke as CLOSED shut, which is what it’s suppose to do. When a thermowax fails the piston is perpetually “piston protruding out” so when engine is cold the choke would be open. I ordered a new carburetor and will make sure I get the full gasket kit. This is a rescue project and I’m about tapped out on all the potential fixes…I am now at Fix #10 but have not yet replaced the carb or adjusted the governor.
@@Fresh-tw7ev Well Im glad I could help someone. It was a terrible experience for myself. I would definitely make sure you have the gaskets before even touching the governor. I made that mistake as well when I initially didn't know I was missing gaskets.
I believe you solved my whole reason for coming here! Testing my engine after a carb clean, I let it run for 30 seconds, shut it off, then it would start but run rough until I pushed the choke in with a screwdriver past the sticking part. I know those two gaskets were not in there. Must of been a previous owner that left them out! Thank you! I bought the mower cheap, likely for this problem they could not solve! The problem was/is: is that the thermowax warmed up just enough to move the choke actuator and cause the choke butterfly to stick until fully warmed up or fully cold again. I assembled the carb back to the engine without the air cleaner box to confirm where it sticks, - right on the actuator fingers/guide. These two gaskets will give it the space it needs...
You are very clear and concise with your explanation. This video helped out a lot as when I took the Carb off all parts and most Gaskets fell in a mixed heap. As I put a new Carb on the Mower, I was wondering if I needed to adjust the mixture screw?
Really good video; nicely done. I agree with others that this provided an appropriate amount of detail from start to finish. Good due diligence tool when you’re working on different equipment simultaneously and might confuse? forget? how to put it back together … in sequence … correctly.
Thank you for the detailed video with some great humor also! I am planning to clean my carb as I thought the surging when hot was the cause, but now I will replace the auto choke and thermowax also as this seems like it could also be the cause. I got this HRX2174HYA used for $30 and trying to get it running like new again. The self propel doesn't work much at all even after adjusting the drive control cable per service manual. It moves forward slower than it should and there is what sounds like a lot of belt slipping noise and hesitation slipping feel to it. Will a belt replacement fix this?
Thank you for that greetings from Germany my mower make some up and down with engine speed the governor is moving. I had cleaned it up to times I think I need a new carburetor. And Choke. I'm thank you for these help.
Hi Thanks for the detailed video. Fantastic. Have one question, i have same model, i see a porblem that when i start the engine it start well but engine rev up and down when i throttle up (governer lever moves back and forth), but when i throttle down it is working properly. can you pls advise if this is right or i have to adjust governor
what an excellent video...I have the 160 and as you said, everything is mostly the same. Mine has auto throttle but still, the carb is the same. Your explanation was perfect and it felt like I was right there looking over your shoulder :) The part numbers are so helpful! Off to fix mine now. subscribed and hit the bell. Thanks again :)
Best video I've seen on replacing the thermowax actuator. Demonstration the governor and idle speed adjustments was a bonus that other Honda GVC videos show on separate posts. So kudos to you for a job well done. I was wondering if the sealant used on the thermowax actuator was necessary because the choke body holds it in place and it seems to me that the sealant would also insulate the actuator somewhat.
Thank you. I doubt it is needed but I ran across a bulletin a while ago from Honda asking for it- along with all the new part #s. Sure will be fun to dig out the 2nd time around!
Great video. Does the Honda GCV 160 have the same gas filter. I just recently replaced the carburetor, choke control & thermowax. Your video was the first that I’ve seen showing were the gas filter is and how to clean it. One more question what was the lubricant or sealer that you applied to the thermowax before installing. Again no other video showed using it. I’m glad I found your channel. Thank you
By far the best video I have see that covers all the problems with the auto choke and governor issues on this engine. Couple things. What is the purpose of the red plastic insert that goes in the filler neck of the fuel tank (at 8:43)? Also, I think I would not add RTV to the thermo- wax pellet. Might create an insulating effect around it, and be a pain taking it out in the future. Honda may recommend it but I think it's better w/o it. Just an opinion. Thanks for the comprehensive video.
@@LockersGarage After my posting I read on anothe website that it is a fuel level gauge so the operator doesnt overfill the tank. So I agree with you and thanks for the confirmation.
Thanks for the added help, but my hrx2174hya still runs ruff. Start 1st pull, surges big time until engage blade, then idles slightly rough afterwards (warmed-up) Noticed the governor arm still bobs when idling. Butterfly closed when cold (new wax working) and open when warmed up, so im at a loss. 2nd time ive done your r&r in 3 years with the same results so im ready for round 3 this winter - any thoughts ?
I have the same HRX217 and it would always start on the first pull until recently it’s taking 3-4 pulls to get it started. This is always when the engine is cold. Could this be the same problem with mine?
I'm guessing but you might not be active on this channel...? My issue is that I need to prime the cylinder with gas to start my 1 yr old mower. If I prime through the airfilter/carb it won't start. If I prime via the spark plug it starts right up. After it starts, it runs perfectly but it won't start when it's cold???
On one of my two HRX217's with the blade clutch, I tach set the no load rpm's to about the Honda recommended 3200. But when I engage the blade, the rpms drop to a weak 2700-2800. Thus, I have to reset & over-rev the no-load rpms to around 3600-3700 in order to have them drop to the desired 3200 when the blade is engaged. I have adjusted the governor arm per this video but the over-rev/under-rev problem still exists. I watch & subscribe to you because you are one of the best. Any ideas?
hi, there great vid and explanation I have honda lawn mower 160 i replace the carburetor and still not start i see my thermo wax is bad so i will replace that but, my lawn no start i spray start fluid and nothing i know i have spark any idea why no start thanks for you future response
Great video, thank you. Clearly shows how the gaskets go on. I had to replace the carb a few weeks ago to fix a stalling problem and it ran great. Now it won't start. I have fresh gas in the bowl, I have spark, but can't figure out where to look next. Suggestions.
Mine doesn’t come off the auto choke the moments it started. Do you have any idea what that could be? The thermo wax thingy is still functioning correct.
I installed a new carb spark plug new thermowax and gaskets, it has compression adjusted governor replaced fuel line and fuel filter but it still surges and turns off…does not turn on the first pull any ideas
My 217 hrx hya stopped run well last week, all the same symptoms so I am gonna replace all the same parts . I however have another issue with the string not being able to be pulled easily it hangs and compression prevents pulling it i remove the plug and its fine no oil in chamber put it back and same thing what could cause this issue worse when engine is hot and mower cuts off
Thanks for the great video! I am going to be replacing the thermo wax assembly on my HRX217. What is the black substance you applied to the Thermo wax assembly, what does it do, and is it necessary, and if it is what is it called so I know what to buy? Will the thermo wax assembly work without it? Thanks very much!
How does that auto choke assembly hook up to the carburetor it doesn't go over the black front choke does it?? Cause I'm trying to figure out my mower Husqvarna with the auto choke like yours
Ah shoot.. the 1 day my GCV160 was running (regular choke) it was doing this 🤦♂️ I have a cheap-o replacement carb that I planned to shelf until I needed it bc the engine is from 2014 but practically brand new. Man.. I wish I could figure this stuff out easier but I have ZERO experiences besides doing landscaping many many moons ago so I barely remember what I was doing then w/ baby engines.
My mower has a detent at the "rabbit", but then could be pushed further, all the way until it doesnt go anymore. Is this full throttle or is the detent full throttle? I dont want to over rev it. Right now I am having an issue where the throttle doesnt respond when I move the lever and the cable is correct. I think the govornor sticks. It still start at full throttle, lower to low throttle, but not respond back to full throttle, or will very slowly.
Happy New Year to you. I have a 2012 Honda Izy mower, the problem is that is revving to high about 5000 rpm, i have completed a full service including the carburetor, checking the ignition coil gap etc. but it is still running fast, can you help me. Thank you in anticipation. shaun
The calibration at the end of the video needs to be done. If that has no affect, and there is no counter feedback from the governor arm, the fly weight assembly inside the engine case may be damaged. Check the obvious for binding or bent linkages first though.
I purchased my HRX217 at HD approx 2015 and has a problem restarting when hot. Does the racecar idle. I purchased the wax auto choke and mine is much different. Cant find it on Honda website. By chance do you have any idea or seen one that doesnt look like the one in this video?
I have not seen any alternate versions of this setup yet... Barring the ones without the throttle control. Try using the engine serial number which is engraved on a flat by the fan shroud on the dipstick side then consult an online Honda parts dealer for the diagrams.
hey loved the video! was curious if the same parts will work on my HRX217 GVC190 model number HRX2175HYA? cause im having the same problem with the surging
I have same issue surging hrx217hya 2017 model starts right up smooth then warms up up and down idle put on blade drive and surging goes away cleaned carb no dirt at all still does it could this be it the Wax palet ?
I have been LOOKING for a video to explain why my honda GCV 160 auto choke on my Huskavarna DIED a few months ago (our neighbors' kid is making bank mowing the lawn while we scratch our heads) and we cleaned a very very clean carburetor and it still wasn't running to our great dismay. No one shows the fix for the Honda engine on this type of lawnmower strangely enough, so KUDOS. The other option is just to bend something out of view on the other engine brand. meh?
Glad it helped- I think the newer ones are built a little better in the auto choke department. They all seem to have auto choke now but seem to break a lot less.
Mowing my yard....the mower quit. I was looking at between 200-650 to fix/replace the mower. This was the most in depth demonstration of how to do this I was able to find.
I watched this video several times and kept chopping wood so to speak. Thanks to you and this video I was able to trace the multiple issues and fixed them. It is now up and running and my yard is mowed! Thank you.
THIS is the HRX217 video I wish I'd had years ago when I started working on mine. I'm gonna go through this process because it's not starting this spring, and this is the only video I've found that covers all the speed, calibration, and choke info.
I took the carb off to clean it due to a hunting issue and this really helped me to see the correct reassembly process. This was the first time I ever tried it on this mower too. I've been lucky and the old Honda has run well for many years. Thanks for the video!
This has been the most in depth demonstration of how to do this I was able to find. Thank you.
I set up my iPad next to my work area and followed along, step by step, to fix my 8+ year old Honda HRX217 mower that was surging at idle. The explanation of which seal goes where and in what order was worth its weight in gold! I replaced the carburetor, springs, thermowax, fuel filter, and even the fixed wire linkage to the carb. I couldn’t quite follow the very last step with the governor arm, but loosened the nut pushed it all back, while holding the pivot as shown in the video and re-tightened the nut.
Started on the first pull! No leaks. A smile crossed my face. Satisfaction…
My mower ran well at idle, so I didn’t adjust the screw on the carburetor. Would be interested to learn how to measure idle to check against specs. I feel like I have a new mower now.
This is a great video, you have provided a great service to a great many people, and I sincerely appreciate it and thank you! Very well done, Sir!
Thank you for the kind words. Sounds like the alignment you did was perfect!
Yes very helpful
This is an incredibly helpful video. Neighbor had this mower sitting out on the curb with a free sign on it. Can’t wait to bring it back to life.
That's a good score!
I just snagged a Craftsman mower off a tree lawn. Has the Honda 160 engine with the auto choke. It was filthy dirty but the deck was good. Pulled through okay and it had oil. Took it home and gave it a good cleaning. Got it to work after about 15 minutes, auto choke works fine. Winterized it and will give it a full detail and service in the Spring.
Excellent video. Detail assembly and disassembly - Best one yet. Thanks for posting.
Thank you. This is one of the most complete videos I’ve come across. Mines been having a slight surge and has been challenging to get it started when cold due to it missing one of the straight springs.
I had a stuck choke and decided to try to bypass it. I opened the air cleaner and used a screwdriver to push on the choke. With a moderate amount of pressure, the choke butterfly plate snapped open. Afterwards the mower ran great. Before doing a deep dive and start replacing parts, I would suggest using a screwdriver to manually unstick the choke. This may not be a long term fix, but it worked for me today.
Just fixed one yesterday with that exact same problem. Even had a new carb installed on it! Screwdriver poke fixed it thus far.
I was glad to see you used OEM parts from a nearby Honda Powersports dealer. I called my hometown Honda dealer here in rural Missouri and he was very agreeable to ordering the parts from Honda and letting me stop by and pick them up. Great tip! Thanks!
Right on!
Very well done video. Clear and easy to follow. Helps to confirm what I'm doing with my HRR2169VLA, which looks pretty much the same other than the (non-existent) throttle control. As much as I used to bash B&S engines in the past (my 1991 Craftsman Riding mower, purchased new, still has the original engine and it runs well), my Honda mower has forced me to endlessly tinker with surging throttle, stalling when hot, won't restart hot, etc. At this point, the wax plug choke thingy is the only thing I haven't replaced. Now that I've seen this video, that comes next...
Between the auto choke & carb and the recoil starter. These are the hot three with this engine it seems. Assuming the customer puts oil in it.
Don't overlook a couple of things that will cause it to surge first thing is the carburetor is supposed to have a larger main jet! Since the engine is a 190 it is going to need more fuel then the carburetor that goes to a 160GVC. Next, a clogged slow speed jet/Piolot jet will cause it to surge.
Great video. Especially the part where you “calibrated” the tension on the governor and throttle cable.
I was having some trouble getting the carb/air box assembly on a HRX217 back on and this saved my butt. Thanks for the vid!
Very well done video! Lots of detail that all others just gloss over way too fast. Thank you!
Glad it was helpful!
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So glad I found this video. I was wondering if there was a easier way to line everything up when putting it back together. I never thought of taking the control bracket off too. My choke has been hanging off. It sometimes binds up. It needs some type of lubricant on the spring on top I'm guessing.
Trash in the idle circuit is generally the cause of the surging. I've watched quite a few people on TH-cam "Clean" these Honda carbs and not even remove the screw (on top of the carb) that covers that jet. The problem doesn't go away, so they play with the governor for a bit, then give up and get a new carb when it really wasn't necessary. I've had people bring me mowers the same way around here. They took it to a shop, they cleaned the carb , played with the governor, and the surging didn't go away.
Cleaning the idle/low speed circuit has fixed the surging issue every time for me.
The Auto-choke problem, not starting when hot, has me a bit stumped, even though everything "seems" to be working as intended. The durn thing (my personal mower) will start with the flick of the wrist when cold. But stop to move something or any reason at all, and the thing may try to start and putt like an old Tin Lizzy for a while and give up or not start at all. I've already replaced the Thermowax so it's probably the updated assembly that you show here.
Thanks for the video!
You really put this tricky little engine into perspective. No mystery now, thank you.
Great video, this should save me that $85 shop fee at the local Honda dealer. Just for the hell of it go ahead and clean the airbox and all other components of loose dirt before reassembly.
Thank you! I couldn’t ask for better instructions. 👏🏾
I had the same issue some years back with my Honda GCV190... I kept cleaning my carb with no success, but it turned out the surging was the idle jet was very very clogged. Ending up using a mini drill to clear out the idle jet and made the whole a bit bigger... and it worked
Thanks for the comment Chris, I have had luck using a welding tip cleaner some times as well. Same as yours, whatever was stuck in it was REALLY stuck!
Do you go clockwise or counter clockwise to turn the idle up, you did not say.
@lockersgarage what is the black glue that you put on the idler part before you installed it? Where can I buy some of the black glue like stuff?
You gave me the confidence I needed when doing carburetor work on these GVC's and got the update part number, thanks again!!! Excellent Video!!!
Excelent work, this is the best video i have ever watched. I love it very much. Thank you
Thanks dude, have an older block but can't start cold, this video was really helpful
Thanks. I re-jetted my HRX2173HYA for high altitude since it always ran rich and chugging a little. I had no idea how this auto choke worked or that it was possibly my main cause of the problems. After I replaced my jet things seemed to get worse when I put it together and had me scratching my head. My thermo wax part was about a 3/8 round job. I have the parts on order. In the meantime I stuffed a couple small nuts into the choke assembly to keep it wide open so I could mow my lawn. It worked! With the new jet my mower runs smoother and seems to have more power like when it was new.
After getting things up to snuff I now have to wait for the engine to warm up for a few minutes and the auto choke to kick in. After that it runs like a top. Next spring I'm removing the auto choke garbage and making this a manual choke. Word to the wise.
I bought this same model mower today for $250 IM SO HAPPY!
Thank you! Our lawnmower now works!
I believe you are missing 2 gaskets @11:56. This is what is causing the throttle to stick. (When you mention the throttle sticks @16:46 "it catches with the auto choke")
There should be 2 small gaskets sandwiching the large rectangular gasket (which is called the air guide)
To clarify, this means you should have a total of 3 gaskets between the carburetor and the plastic auto choke assembly @11:56
The 2 gaskets you are missing is 'Honda 16221883800 Carburetor Gasket'
(If you google that part number, you will notice their holes are the same of the air guide (the large rectangle gasket).
(I would post a link to a diagram but TH-cam blocks my comment when I include the link)
Great video though! It is thorough and detailed.
Hi Sypex…I have a question about all those gaskets you mentioned. I have pulled my GVC160 carb 2x and cleaned it thoroughly. I replaced the thermowax. The engine starts perfectly and runs fine for approx 3 mins but after it gets hot it surges under load. Then it fails miserably to restart and chugs and wheezes and spits black smoke. So I researched the cause and someone cited an air leak due to improper gasket application. So they suggested shooting carb cleaner into the intake and I f the engine stalls you have an air leak…which might be my case since I swear I Don’t have all those gaskets installed. Thoughts??
@@Fresh-tw7ev This was exactly my issue. I replaced the carb with a new(remanufactured) one however it did not come with the gaskets mentioned. I had the same exact issue as you.
I later returned the carb that was missing the gaskets and bought another one that included the other 2 gaskets. I had a much more stable experience after those were installed.
(Another thing to note is the new kit I received also had a Thermowax piston that was DOA. Maybe also check that your piston is functioning. I just reused the one that one preciously installed)
I swear the smallest vacuum leak on those things make them super temperamental.
@@sypex6873 thanks so much. Yes I replaced the thermowax piston a week ago and it’s working properly. A properly working thermowax when engine is stone cold is the “piston in” which will then show the choke as CLOSED shut, which is what it’s suppose to do. When a thermowax fails the piston is perpetually “piston protruding out” so when engine is cold the choke would be open. I ordered a new carburetor and will make sure I get the full gasket kit. This is a rescue project and I’m about tapped out on all the potential fixes…I am now at Fix #10 but have not yet replaced the carb or adjusted the governor.
@@Fresh-tw7ev Well Im glad I could help someone. It was a terrible experience for myself.
I would definitely make sure you have the gaskets before even touching the governor.
I made that mistake as well when I initially didn't know I was missing gaskets.
I believe you solved my whole reason for coming here! Testing my engine after a carb clean, I let it run for 30 seconds, shut it off, then it would start but run rough until I pushed the choke in with a screwdriver past the sticking part. I know those two gaskets were not in there. Must of been a previous owner that left them out! Thank you! I bought the mower cheap, likely for this problem they could not solve!
The problem was/is: is that the thermowax warmed up just enough to move the choke actuator and cause the choke butterfly to stick until fully warmed up or fully cold again. I assembled the carb back to the engine without the air cleaner box to confirm where it sticks, - right on the actuator fingers/guide. These two gaskets will give it the space it needs...
Thx man! Best video for this type honda on TH-cam
Glad it helped!
Thank you! This helped with a Husqvarna mower/Honda motor.
Can you skip the bond? On the auto choke? Donyboy73 and other TH-camrs never use it
I don’t use it but I don’t clean out the hole so it’s sug fit
Great job and thanks! Clear, concise, and exactly what I needed!
You are very clear and concise with your explanation. This video helped out a lot as when I took the Carb off all parts and most Gaskets fell in a mixed heap. As I put a new Carb on the Mower, I was wondering if I needed to adjust the mixture screw?
Really good video; nicely done. I agree with others that this provided an appropriate amount of detail from start to finish. Good due diligence tool when you’re working on different equipment simultaneously and might confuse? forget? how to put it back together … in sequence … correctly.
EL MEJOR VIDEO. TODO MUY BIEN EXPLICADO, SE AGRADECE QUE MUESTRES LOS PART NUMBERS.
I wrapped mine in foil. It helps with the heat transfer from the block and holds the pellet in place pretty well.
Thank you for the detailed video with some great humor also! I am planning to clean my carb as I thought the surging when hot was the cause, but now I will replace the auto choke and thermowax also as this seems like it could also be the cause. I got this HRX2174HYA used for $30 and trying to get it running like new again. The self propel doesn't work much at all even after adjusting the drive control cable per service manual. It moves forward slower than it should and there is what sounds like a lot of belt slipping noise and hesitation slipping feel to it. Will a belt replacement fix this?
Thank you for that greetings from Germany my mower make some up and down with engine speed the governor is moving. I had cleaned it up to times I think I need a new carburetor. And Choke. I'm thank you for these help.
That was the issue with this one. Still going strong in commercial use.
Hi Thanks for the detailed video. Fantastic. Have one question, i have same model, i see a porblem that when i start the engine it start well but engine rev up and down when i throttle up (governer lever moves back and forth), but when i throttle down it is working properly. can you pls advise if this is right or i have to adjust governor
what an excellent video...I have the 160 and as you said, everything is mostly the same. Mine has auto throttle but still, the carb is the same. Your explanation was perfect and it felt like I was right there looking over your shoulder :) The part numbers are so helpful! Off to fix mine now. subscribed and hit the bell. Thanks again :)
But the carb is different for the 160
Best video I've seen on replacing the thermowax actuator. Demonstration the governor and idle speed adjustments was a bonus that other Honda GVC videos show on separate posts. So kudos to you for a job well done. I was wondering if the sealant used on the thermowax actuator was necessary because the choke body holds it in place and it seems to me that the sealant would also insulate the actuator somewhat.
Thank you. I doubt it is needed but I ran across a bulletin a while ago from Honda asking for it- along with all the new part #s. Sure will be fun to dig out the 2nd time around!
Outstanding Job explaining into detail how to fix the auto choke . I subscribed to your channel. Hpe to see many more video's
Great video. Does the Honda GCV 160 have the same gas filter. I just recently replaced the carburetor, choke control & thermowax. Your video was the first that I’ve seen showing were the gas filter is and how to clean it. One more question what was the lubricant or sealer that you applied to the thermowax before installing. Again no other video showed using it. I’m glad I found your channel. Thank you
By far the best video I have see that covers all the problems with the auto choke and governor issues on this engine. Couple things. What is the purpose of the red plastic insert that goes in the filler neck of the fuel tank (at 8:43)? Also, I think I would not add RTV to the thermo- wax pellet. Might create an insulating effect around it, and be a pain taking it out in the future. Honda may recommend it but I think it's better w/o it. Just an opinion. Thanks for the comprehensive video.
The red "bobber" in the fuel tank is a gauge. I seem to only see them in new engines.
@@LockersGarage After my posting I read on anothe website that it is a fuel level gauge so the operator doesnt overfill the tank. So I agree with you and thanks for the confirmation.
Thanks for the video! Do you know what the idle and full throttle RPM specifications are? One source states 4300 RPM for full throttle.
Experienced all those symptoms, surging throttle. poor starting, thanks for the vid
You are welcome.
Best video I’ve seen on this. Thank you!
Thanks for the added help, but my hrx2174hya still runs ruff. Start 1st pull, surges big time until engage blade, then idles slightly rough afterwards (warmed-up) Noticed the governor arm still bobs when idling. Butterfly closed when cold (new wax working) and open when warmed up, so im at a loss. 2nd time ive done your r&r in 3 years with the same results so im ready for round 3 this winter - any thoughts ?
Thanks for a great and informative video!
Many thanks very informative and practical
Glad it was helpful!
I have the same HRX217 and it would always start on the first pull until recently it’s taking 3-4 pulls to get it started. This is always when the engine is cold. Could this be the same problem with mine?
I'm guessing but you might not be active on this channel...? My issue is that I need to prime the cylinder with gas to start my 1 yr old mower. If I prime through the airfilter/carb it won't start. If I prime via the spark plug it starts right up. After it starts, it runs perfectly but it won't start when it's cold???
On one of my two HRX217's with the blade clutch, I tach set the no load rpm's to about the Honda recommended 3200. But when I engage the blade, the rpms drop to a weak 2700-2800. Thus, I have to reset & over-rev the no-load rpms to around 3600-3700 in order to have them drop to the desired 3200 when the blade is engaged. I have adjusted the governor arm per this video but the over-rev/under-rev problem still exists. I watch & subscribe to you because you are one of the best. Any ideas?
Had trouble finding wax pellet in Australia price over 80 dollars compared to 26 dollars manual choke aftermarket carb we have to improvise
Making sure I order the right parts I find more difficult than actually doing the work. Will the parts used work for HRX2173VKA. Great video.
Can you recommend a replacement carb for this model that has a manual choke? Thanks
hi, there great vid and explanation I have honda lawn mower 160 i replace the carburetor and still not start i see my thermo wax is bad so i will replace that but, my lawn no start i spray start fluid and nothing i know i have spark any idea why no start thanks for you future response
Excellant video and explanations.
Thank you, I learned a great deal!
Great video! Thanks for this. Saving for future reference. You da man!
Any time!
Great video, thank you. Clearly shows how the gaskets go on. I had to replace the carb a few weeks ago to fix a stalling problem and it ran great. Now it won't start. I have fresh gas in the bowl, I have spark, but can't figure out where to look next. Suggestions.
Sometimes it is the gas cap. Clean the filter in the cap or replace it. Try to run the mower without the cap to make sure that is your problem.
Thankyou very much for this video 👍
thanks so much.. i believe you have helped me resolve my issue
Life saver sir!
Thanks bro! Great vid, helped me out.
Love your videos and how you describe things.
I appreciate that!
I noticed you don't use any gasket adhesive (Permatex) but you replace all the gaskets. I assume that is the recommended practice.
Mine doesn’t come off the auto choke the moments it started. Do you have any idea what that could be? The thermo wax thingy is still functioning correct.
I installed a new carb spark plug new thermowax and gaskets, it has compression adjusted governor replaced fuel line and fuel filter but it still surges and turns off…does not turn on the first pull any ideas
My 217 hrx hya stopped run well last week, all the same symptoms so I am gonna replace all the same parts . I however have another issue with the string not being able to be pulled easily it hangs and compression prevents pulling it i remove the plug and its fine no oil in chamber put it back and same thing what could cause this issue worse when engine is hot and mower cuts off
Thanks for the great video! I am going to be replacing the thermo wax assembly on my HRX217. What is the black substance you applied to the Thermo wax assembly, what does it do, and is it necessary, and if it is what is it called so I know what to buy? Will the thermo wax assembly work without it? Thanks very much!
It should work without the RTV silicone. Honda wants it in there but many older engines do not have it from the factory
thanks for the video how to service Honda mower
How does that auto choke assembly hook up to the carburetor it doesn't go over the black front choke does it?? Cause I'm trying to figure out my mower Husqvarna with the auto choke like yours
Great vidio on the mower.....
Great job
When do you add the exhaust hose?
Ah shoot.. the 1 day my GCV160 was running (regular choke) it was doing this 🤦♂️ I have a cheap-o replacement carb that I planned to shelf until I needed it bc the engine is from 2014 but practically brand new. Man.. I wish I could figure this stuff out easier but I have ZERO experiences besides doing landscaping many many moons ago so I barely remember what I was doing then w/ baby engines.
Howdy, what gasoline do you recommend to use in this mower? E-zero? E-30? Thanks
what is the black stuff you use to insert the wax plug?
helpful information.
I have one of these same model but it keeps wanting to run wide open trying to figure this out now.
Would my 2 year old Husqvarna push mower with the Honda GCV 160 engine have the updated parts or old parts that need updating?
I think this was about a two year old unit at the time of the recording.
Mower is still going strong last I heard.
Another great video.. Thanks for sharing.. Subbed..
Thanks for the sub!
What paper or material do you use to make your gaskets with CAD? And is it possible to make them by hand using the old ones as templates.Good video .
The Karo pack paper from Napa - not a sponsor
My mower has a detent at the "rabbit", but then could be pushed further, all the way until it doesnt go anymore. Is this full throttle or is the detent full throttle? I dont want to over rev it.
Right now I am having an issue where the throttle doesnt respond when I move the lever and the cable is correct. I think the govornor sticks. It still start at full throttle, lower to low throttle, but not respond back to full throttle, or will very slowly.
That "further" would be for the engines that have choke built into the control bracket
It has to work if you put everything new on
Happy New Year to you. I have a 2012 Honda Izy mower, the problem is that is revving to high about 5000 rpm, i have completed a full service including the carburetor, checking the ignition coil gap etc. but it is still running fast, can you help me. Thank you in anticipation. shaun
The calibration at the end of the video needs to be done. If that has no affect, and there is no counter feedback from the governor arm, the fly weight assembly inside the engine case may be damaged. Check the obvious for binding or bent linkages first though.
I purchased my HRX217 at HD approx 2015 and has a problem restarting when hot. Does the racecar idle. I purchased the wax auto choke and mine is much different. Cant find it on Honda website. By chance do you have any idea or seen one that doesnt look like the one in this video?
I have not seen any alternate versions of this setup yet... Barring the ones without the throttle control. Try using the engine serial number which is engraved on a flat by the fan shroud on the dipstick side then consult an online Honda parts dealer for the diagrams.
Sound like mine did after I attempted to repair it.
hey loved the video! was curious if the same parts will work on my HRX217 GVC190 model number HRX2175HYA? cause im having the same problem with the surging
They should if they look the same as the ones in the video.
I have same issue surging hrx217hya 2017 model starts right up smooth then warms up up and down idle put on blade drive and surging goes away cleaned carb no dirt at all still does it could this be it the Wax palet ?
Great video. Tks
I have been LOOKING for a video to explain why my honda GCV 160 auto choke on my Huskavarna DIED a few months ago (our neighbors' kid is making bank mowing the lawn while we scratch our heads) and we cleaned a very very clean carburetor and it still wasn't running to our great dismay. No one shows the fix for the Honda engine on this type of lawnmower strangely enough, so KUDOS. The other option is just to bend something out of view on the other engine brand. meh?
Glad it helped- I think the newer ones are built a little better in the auto choke department. They all seem to have auto choke now but seem to break a lot less.
Carburator New wath number ?, How to Order /
i cleaned the carb and put it all back together, but now i have no throttle
Two carb cleaning!! 🤔 not sure why you wouldn't replace carb sooner .
very good !
what was the black stuff you used to install the thermal wax assembly?
It was Permatex Right Stuff - Any RTV will do
What website can I buy the carburetor kit on all I can find is knock off ones.
Get it from your local Honda car and power sport dealer. This is what I did.
If a carb is surging I go straight to acid dip and then ultra sonic cleaning next
98% fix rate
Thanks bud