Very nice result 👍 Maybe talk to Kurtis & find out who he uses for nitriding - gives a great finish (and corrosion protection) to his shop made tools. All the best, Paul
Hello Matty, make yourself a wooden box to put it in when you are finished using it, wipe a thin layer of engine oil on it too, it will NOT rust, and you will have a nice shiny new tool to use when you need it. Cheers from me. 😃👍👍👍👍👍
I use Van’s Cold Blue, the stuff is great, paid $36 US and received a quart of the solution. Its supposed to be industrial-grade. I've used it on a few tools, the first being in 2019 and it's held up quite nicely with all the use that the tool gets. The trick is to clean the tool thoroughly and keep the tool wet, don't let it get dry, with the Cold Blue solution for a minimum of 5 minutes, after 5 minutes, rinse off the tool with cold water and dry it. Lastly, soak the tool in a lightweight oil for 24 hours, remove the tool from the oil after 24 hours, and wipe dry. If you just wipe the cold blue on the tool, the tool will become black because that's how the solution works but it will not provide the best results doing it the quick and dirty way.
Gday, Im not sure if the cold blueing will rub off to easy or not wth the swarf, I may just leave it raw and see how it goes possibly, Thanks for watching mate, Cheers
*_Caswell has the real black oxide. Its the real deal and you can buy a small bottle, just enough for that job. As soon as I'm done building my anodizing room, I'm going to be offering single item black oxide coatings. Otherwise you're right that cold blue is garbage._*
@@MattysWorkshop Caswell has been around for years. Any sort of plating, anodizing, coating, for the home user, they are the place to go. You can get kits from them or just straight supplies.
Another great video. One suggestion when milling to get longer mill bit life when you can cut the full depth and then move into the piece. If you don't do this you are always cutting with the very tip of the bit and so it wears (particularly the corner) and the sides hardly get used at all.
A great addition to the workshop Matty. I did check my local supplier and at the moment they are doing the drill bodies so cheap, it wouldn't make sense to make them. The inserts however! Smaller sizes are £30 but you have to buy 2, and the larger one start at about £50. A thought on you drill body though. You could drill through to the bore behind each side of the insert with say a 3mm drill. Thread the rear end and plug it, then cross drill to the bore again, thread a fitting and connect to your coolant. You then have a through tool coolant supply, it'd help flush out the swarf and lube the insert.
Gday, For a YesTool brand shank I believe they around $350 roughly, I think the through coolant feature may happen soon at this stage, Appreciate you watching, Cheers
Through shank coolant. Exactly what I was thinking. Before you make another drill I suggest making a disk cutter using the round inserts. Easy peasy for a bloke of your talents. A root radius in the flutes will help with chip evacuation and strengthen the drill body as well as providing the large radius at the flute shoulder. Forget any type of blueing. No matter what the process they all rub off. Maybe consider hard chrome. If you give the part a fine blast before chroming you will get a very pleasing satin chrome finish. That's how many competition pistols are finished. Knocked it out of the park again Matty.
Great build Matty..How about utilizing the centre hole for through coolant..? all you need to do is plug the hole with a threaded bung at the rear end of the bar, install a port on top of the bar near the ER collet to supply the coolant and bore a couple of holes for coolant jets near the insert.
You impress me to no end! A piece of round bar and some expert machining and you have a a very expensive tool at little cost other than your time. The end result must be very rewarding!
Good video mate. I didn’t know exactly what you meant when you were describing what you were going to make, but it made sense as you went along. It looked to make a nice hole at the end, great work mate.
Very nice large drill Matty. I use to do hot bluing by Heating the metal and quenching it in oil. You obviously can't use that method for items that should not be heated. For cold bluing I use Birchwood Casey's Perma Blue Liquid. It has worked really well for me so far. I like to submerge small items in the liquid and leave them there for quite a while. That give a really good full black coating. I buy the big bottle (just under 1 liter) as it is a lot cheaper than buying a lot of the smaller bottles. The other option is to ask Mark Presling about his parkerising process.
I've had pretty decent results with the cheap Outers brand Gun Blue style cold blueing ... my best results were with the part heated to 50 - 75 C then degreased, blued, and oiled with a clear thin oil (like sewing machine oil) while.it was still hot. Not sure how well it would wear in a machine shop setting as my projects didn't see that kind of use. Thanks for sharing 🇨🇦
Nicely done, Matty! Saved your self a couple hundred bucks there I'm sure 😁. They're good for multiple different sizes too so you can just swap the bit and your good to go. They do leave a pretty nice hole as well 😊. Cheers!
Gday Chris, definitely saved a bit of coin, I believe I could get away with going to 32mm with this shank but now I’m keen to see if the lathe will drive a 50mm, appreciate you watching mate, cheers
Another nice build Matty, These spade bits are interesting but expensive. I think nitriding may be overkill compared to cold blueing, a burnished finish would be OK. Cheers SteveO.
Brilliant result Matty. But what about going the whole hog and adding coolant to it? After all, the hard part is done with the hole through the centre. Two holes at the tip angled into the tip with a hole about 3 mm should be plenty and then drill and tap at 90 degrees at the base for a fitting. Put a bung into the bottom and you're away. That might stop the chips from packing at the side near the top causing the scuffing.
Matty, great build, another viewer suggested nitriding👍 Heres an option to prevent swarf chip wear on the drill shaft. Run a 0.25mm clearance cut from a couple of mm behind the insert to the shoulder of drill shaft this will give the drill shank clearance and prevent some of the rubbing from any swarf that fails to clear properly. Good video😊
Gday, I still have to look into the cost on nitriding yet, I was surprised that there wasn’t more rubbing of swarf to be honest, appreciate you watching, cheers
Hello Matty, great job on that spade drill. It looks great and it works great - can't ask for much more than that. I'm looking forward to the 50mm one when you make it. Regards, Dave
Brilliant job Matty. I wasn't aware until a few months ago that spade drills existed. I think they are a fantastic idea. Hopefully the inserts are a reasonable price. Looking forward to seeing you use it on a future project. Cheers Nobby.
Top result mate 👍 You can buy Blacking stuff from a mob in a Newcastle, but I think it is a bit $$$ exie 🧐 Presso does a lot of ‘finishing’ on his tools ( humid climate). Very economical drill bit mate. Are the inserts coated with something? Anyhoo…. thanks for going to the extra trouble to video the build 👍 Regards Robert
Gday Robert, the inserts have some kind of coating but no idea what it is, at this stage I’m going to leave it as it is, I don’t have much of a rust issue here thankfully, appreciate you watching mate, cheers
I normally nickel plate my shop made tools to protect them from rust, it's cheap and easy to do, Geoffery Crocker has a good video on how to do it. I think I'm going to have a look into making some similar drills, nice work.
Gday, I started looking into nickel plating a good while ago but didn’t follow up on it, I’ll check out Geoffrey Crocker’s TH-cam, thanks for watching, cheers
@@MattysWorkshop Nickel plating is really cheap I'm still using the same sheet of nickel and the solution I made about 5 years ago, I just use an old phone charger, you don't want to use to much current.
Hi, Matty. re rust protection, I messed about with cold blueing a few rifle parts some decades ago and wasn't impressed. I think nitriding would be much better, judging from Kurtis's (CEE Australia) results. Cheers, Matty.
That turned out very nice. Great job Matty. I haven't tried a Spade Drill, but from what I understand and watching on YT, they are a game changer. Thanks for sharing and all the best to you my friend.
Oh yeah mate that's a bobby dazzler. If it were me as far as the finish goes I'd try to get it case hardened if you want to protect it. That cold blue stuff looks good but it's rubbish for protecting against swarf. If you get it case hardened it'll have a hard exterior like when it started out before you cut the chrome off it. That gives it a lot of ductile strength like what you get from an I-beam and it makes it super resilient as far as getting scuffed up goes. But yeah mate, she's a bute. That one's a keeper for sure! You might also want to consider a 40mm if you're going to build a 50mm just to complete the range. I'd say those are a bit faster than a boring bar and well worth the time in making it. Good on you mate!
@@MattysWorkshop Bigger, that's a shame. Maybe have a chat with Curtis from @CuttingEdgeEngineering and see who he sends his bits and bobs to for hardening. You might even be able to work it out so you can get it done for free for a bit of a kind mention. Anyway I hope you're going good mate. Cheers.
If the alloy you used for the shank is compatible with surface nitriding I would consider sending it for nitriding. I think the cost isn't too much and it would certainly handle stuck chips a lot better, plus the finish is quite attractive and when oiled would provide some corrosion protection.
Nice job. Shop made tools are great. It shows a different way of doing things. Wrenching on old trucks I make them as I need them. I don't have the machines to do it, but a torch & vise will suffice for my needs. Mine may not be pretty, but do the job. I really enjoy the proper machine work for the precision. Thanks for sharing
Gday, The insert was sent in by a viewer and I believe there are available from Livetools, I might have to look a little harder into parkerising I think, Cheers
Some high end job there Matty, very nicely done, great narration and videoing. Carriage mounted holder on cross slide would work well with that, and other drilling, just clamp on cross slide, with a fixed datum block on the saddle.
Hi Matty, Very good video mate! Since I have found you with a feed from Kertis you seem to be a more "home made channel" explaining what you are doing and to me who knows nothing about metalwork very enjoyable. Please keep the videos coming you are the highlight of the week. Best regards ken (in the UK)
I've probably commented when I first watched this back in June Matty. Can you tell me what the insert designation is please? I can only find the flat style inserts over here in the UK and none with the central post like your one. They certainly produce a bloody good accurate hole. That's the dog's dangly bits of an insert holder mate!
cracking job Matty, Ive never cold blued anything to be honest, I paint all my stuff with either neatsfoot oil or home made beeswax, linseed oil paste...I'm experimenting with pine Resin in linseed oil but its a bit sticky...great for wood and anvils but not so much for cutting tools. Having accurate ways to cut holes is a huge time saver in the long run, I like the look of those a lot...if you were feeling really technical you could maybe machine a coolant bore so the coolant comes out inside the hole as you get deeper...there's one to think on Thanks for sharing
Gday, Ive never been a fan of cold blueing, I'd be interested in how you go with your experiment, Through coolant is something on the to do list, Thanks for watching, Cheers
@@MattysWorkshop I'll let you know how it goes...so far Ive had an anvil outside my workshop all winter and there is no pitting on the table whatsoever, theres a slight rust sheen from whern it was first out there but after put the oil and beeswax on it...nothing, no change at all
Matty, that cutting oil looks like something I drained from the transfer case of my R model Mack Wrecker in the 90’s mate 😂. I hope it smells just as burned. Gotta say that turned out well. Definitely worth the effort. 👍
I've been following you for a long time, initially for the shaper work! Irony, I'm till here even though the shaper is long gone! All the best, Matthew
Gday Matty bloody nice tool build mate those drill bits can't be cheap for the whole thing so buying just the tip and making the rest is definitely the way to go and that turned out awesome great job. Yeah kempy666999 is on to it nitriding would definitely do it justice top video mate.
Cold blue isn't the way to go to afford it any real protection. If you do decide to go that route, make sure you get every lick of contaminant off of it, then heat it up to about 100c, slather it on, and when it cools hit it with a coat of rem oil. I have never had any luck with it looking decent, but a light buff with some 0000 steel wool and rem oil would give you about the best bet. Oh, and do not touch it with bare hands between cleaning it and applying the cold blue. It has been a good 15 years sense I've messed with it, so it might be better now.
Gday, I've never been keen on the look of the cold blue finish hence why I leave things I make shiny, I have to look into nitriding and how that wears over time, Appreciate you watching, Cheers
Another good job Matty have a talk with Mark Prisling about blackening that part I forget what it is called I was looking at getting some my self I know it is from Caswell Cheers Keith
Gday, Ive never been a fan of the black look of tools, I understand the reasoning its done though for rust protection, I think Preso uses Parkerrising I think, Thanks for watching, Cheers
Gday Greg, the workshop has been getting reorganised lately to make some more room, I make the room and it disappears again, thanks for watching mate, cheers
Another beautiful homemade tool Matty, I wish my little machines had the grunt to drive them because I would go down that path at the drop of a hat, I used them extensively in the factory, Iscar branded stuff, that even had little adjustable chamfering collars with an indexable carbide tip, so I could kill 2 birds in one go. 👍
@@MattysWorkshop The chamfer collar is a nifty little thing and just clamps around the shaft, if you could find a suitable tip it wouldn't be hard to make one.
G'day Matty. I watched this last night on the television. That was a really good job mate with an excellent outcome. Cheers mate, Aaron. PS: I'd be to lazy to make one and just purchase one off Arty at LiveTools LOL ha ha ha
Hi Matty, i use pottasium nitrate, aka salt petre here in philippines, dont know if you can buy in Aus. Wouldnt worry about the scratches, only cosmetic. Watched Kurtis using spade drills, nice finish and very close to size.
Gday, Id say at this stage its going to stay the way it is, I've watched Kurtis using these and always wondered how good they are and it was definitely worth building, Thanks for watching mate, Cheers
Great video thanks for sharing 👍 you could try blacking it with oxy acetylene and quenching in oil , give it a go on a piece of scrap as you'll need a bit of trial and error while you learn the knack 👍
Curious to know why you didnt drill/ream the 8mm/6mm through on the lathe in the second setup in the 26mm collet? It looks good and works like a champion. Can you please add a link to the inserts? Cold blue will polish off with use as swarf gets down the shank.
Gday, The reason I didn't drill the 8mm hole in the lathe was I forgot to, the 6mm hole was an after thought when I was wondering how i'd get the insert out if it got stuck, Thanks for watching, Cheers
Top job again Matty. And useful too. As for cold-blue? I’m not sure it’ll protect it more, or hide the scuff marks. But, what do I know? Anyway, greetings from Amsterdam 👍🇳🇱
Gday, Im not real keen on the cold blue to be honest and from what a few comments have said it will scratch off easily, Appreciate you watching mate, Cheers
I thought another boring video but you really drilled it home that its the ace of spades.
🤣🤣🤣spot on mate
I see what you did there...........😅
Very punny
Very nice result 👍
Maybe talk to Kurtis & find out who he uses for nitriding - gives a great finish (and corrosion protection) to his shop made tools.
All the best,
Paul
Thought of your mate Kurtis as well! Maybe add a bit more clearance on the shank for the next one. Great work! Cheers!
Thanks for watching, Cheers
Gday Kempy, I'll have to find out he cost of it too, maybe get a few tings done at once if I decide to go that way, Thanks for watching mate, Cheers
Not bad for retired truckie ! Ya starting to give Max a run for his money over here in W.A . Regards Steve from Perth.
A fellow Aussie, Mark Presling @Preso58, does a bit of Parkerising th-cam.com/video/jpDVoTPXeNs/w-d-xo.htmlfeature=shared
I love it when a plan comes together. 👍
So do I mate, Thanks for watching, Cheers
Hello Matty, make yourself a wooden box to put it in when you are finished using it, wipe a thin layer of engine oil on it too, it will NOT rust, and you will have a nice shiny new tool to use when you need it. Cheers from me. 😃👍👍👍👍👍
I use Van’s Cold Blue, the stuff is great, paid $36 US and received a quart of the solution. Its supposed to be industrial-grade. I've used it on a few tools, the first being in 2019 and it's held up quite nicely with all the use that the tool gets. The trick is to clean the tool thoroughly and keep the tool wet, don't let it get dry, with the Cold Blue solution for a minimum of 5 minutes, after 5 minutes, rinse off the tool with cold water and dry it. Lastly, soak the tool in a lightweight oil for 24 hours, remove the tool from the oil after 24 hours, and wipe dry. If you just wipe the cold blue on the tool, the tool will become black because that's how the solution works but it will not provide the best results doing it the quick and dirty way.
Gday, Im not sure if the cold blueing will rub off to easy or not wth the swarf, I may just leave it raw and see how it goes possibly, Thanks for watching mate, Cheers
@@MattysWorkshop you can always oil blue it, can't remember the exact process but oil bluing is durable as well.
*_Caswell has the real black oxide. Its the real deal and you can buy a small bottle, just enough for that job. As soon as I'm done building my anodizing room, I'm going to be offering single item black oxide coatings. Otherwise you're right that cold blue is garbage._*
Gday, I haven’t heard of Caswell before, that’s a good idea offering a oxide coating service, thanks for watching, cheers
@@MattysWorkshop Caswell has been around for years. Any sort of plating, anodizing, coating, for the home user, they are the place to go. You can get kits from them or just straight supplies.
Worked well Matty. The finish was very surprising. Good job. Cheers Rob
Thanks Rob, Appreciate you watching, Cheers
Another great video. One suggestion when milling to get longer mill bit life when you can cut the full depth and then move into the piece. If you don't do this you are always cutting with the very tip of the bit and so it wears (particularly the corner) and the sides hardly get used at all.
Hi Matty, You should look at drilling some through coolant holes in the flutes and ensure you get coolant right to the insert. Great video mate!
A great addition to the workshop Matty. I did check my local supplier and at the moment they are doing the drill bodies so cheap, it wouldn't make sense to make them. The inserts however! Smaller sizes are £30 but you have to buy 2, and the larger one start at about £50.
A thought on you drill body though. You could drill through to the bore behind each side of the insert with say a 3mm drill. Thread the rear end and plug it, then cross drill to the bore again, thread a fitting and connect to your coolant. You then have a through tool coolant supply, it'd help flush out the swarf and lube the insert.
Gday, For a YesTool brand shank I believe they around $350 roughly, I think the through coolant feature may happen soon at this stage, Appreciate you watching, Cheers
Through shank coolant. Exactly what I was thinking. Before you make another drill I suggest making a disk cutter using the round inserts. Easy peasy for a bloke of your talents. A root radius in the flutes will help with chip evacuation and strengthen the drill body as well as providing the large radius at the flute shoulder. Forget any type of blueing. No matter what the process they all rub off. Maybe consider hard chrome. If you give the part a fine blast before chroming you will get a very pleasing satin chrome finish. That's how many competition pistols are finished. Knocked it out of the park again Matty.
Great build Matty..How about utilizing the centre hole for through coolant..? all you need to do is plug the hole with a threaded bung at the rear end of the bar, install a port on top of the bar near the ER collet to supply the coolant and bore a couple of holes for coolant jets near the insert.
Gday, Im thinking about doing a coolant setup for sure, Thanks for watching, Cheers
A nice addition to the toolbox. Good work mate!
You impress me to no end! A piece of round bar and some expert machining and you have a a very expensive tool at little cost other than your time. The end result must be very rewarding!
Gday, it is rewarding when the tool works the way it should mate. Thanks for watching, Cheers
Another top tool for the shop, mate. Great work. 👍🇦🇺
Thanks mate, appreciate you watching
Good video mate. I didn’t know exactly what you meant when you were describing what you were going to make, but it made sense as you went along. It looked to make a nice hole at the end, great work mate.
Gday Dave, appreciate you watching mate, cheers
You must be well happy with that - drills through that smoother than a hot knife through butter. Total success. 👍👍 Shop tools for the win.
Definitely happy with how this turned out, I thunk ill be making more in the future, Thanks for watching mate, Cheers
Very nice large drill Matty.
I use to do hot bluing by Heating the metal and quenching it in oil. You obviously can't use that method for items that should not be heated. For cold bluing I use Birchwood Casey's Perma Blue Liquid. It has worked really well for me so far. I like to submerge small items in the liquid and leave them there for quite a while. That give a really good full black coating. I buy the big bottle (just under 1 liter) as it is a lot cheaper than buying a lot of the smaller bottles. The other option is to ask Mark Presling about his parkerising process.
Gday John, ive noticed each time you blue your parts they turn out well, thanks for watching mate
I've had pretty decent results with the cheap Outers brand Gun Blue style cold blueing ... my best results were with the part heated to 50 - 75 C then degreased, blued, and oiled with a clear thin oil (like sewing machine oil) while.it was still hot. Not sure how well it would wear in a machine shop setting as my projects didn't see that kind of use.
Thanks for sharing 🇨🇦
Thanks Paul, Appreciate you watching, Cheers
Nicely done, Matty! Saved your self a couple hundred bucks there I'm sure 😁. They're good for multiple different sizes too so you can just swap the bit and your good to go. They do leave a pretty nice hole as well 😊.
Cheers!
Gday Chris, definitely saved a bit of coin, I believe I could get away with going to 32mm with this shank but now I’m keen to see if the lathe will drive a 50mm, appreciate you watching mate, cheers
Works sweet, that Mill is awesome, much better then the new one you wanted Matty.
Gday, Im very happy with the mill and the quality is much better then todays machines I believe, Thanks for watching mate, Cheers
That is really outstanding work. Cheers, Matty.
Thanks very much Robert, Appreciate you watching, Cheers
You gotta be happy with that! what a great result go for the 50m, thanks mate.
Thanks mate, I'm thinking about a 50mm now, Thanks for watching, cheers
Another nice build Matty, These spade bits are interesting but expensive. I think nitriding may be overkill compared to cold blueing, a burnished finish would be OK. Cheers SteveO.
Gday SteveO, I haven't decided what i'll do yet, may even stay the way it is possible, Thanks for watching mate, Cheers
Right on, Matty. So glad you're doing good. Real and great content. Thx👍🏻
Thanks very much mate, Appreciate you watching, Cheers
Brilliant result Matty.
But what about going the whole hog and adding coolant to it? After all, the hard part is done with the hole through the centre. Two holes at the tip angled into the tip with a hole about 3 mm should be plenty and then drill and tap at 90 degrees at the base for a fitting. Put a bung into the bottom and you're away. That might stop the chips from packing at the side near the top causing the scuffing.
Gday, It won't be hard to make it through coolant, its on the cards to happen mate, Thanks for watching, Cheers
Great Job Matty, if you keep making tools you will put us out of business!! 😝😝😝
🤣🤣🤣 thanks mate, appreciate you watching, Cheers
Hi, Matty. That's a nice piece of kit and amazingly accurate for a bore that size. I learned something new today. Thanks, mate. Cheers.
Gday, I didn't expect it to drill that accurate and leave a really nice surface finish, Thanks for watching, Cheers
Hi Matty . You made a really nice job of this tool and it worked great. Made for some exquisite viewing mate
Gday Steve, I was surprised how well the lathe handled it to be honest, thanks for watching mate, cheers
Matty, great build, another viewer suggested nitriding👍 Heres an option to prevent swarf chip wear on the drill shaft. Run a 0.25mm clearance cut from a couple of mm behind the insert to the shoulder of drill shaft this will give the drill shank clearance and prevent some of the rubbing from any swarf that fails to clear properly. Good video😊
Gday, I still have to look into the cost on nitriding yet, I was surprised that there wasn’t more rubbing of swarf to be honest, appreciate you watching, cheers
Beautiful build, Matty! I can see making a few of these!
Thanks very much, Cheers
Bloody nice work Matty, I am glad you replaced that coolant pump as I was thinking it was in dire need of a prostate check!
Thanks for watching mate
Hello Matty, great job on that spade drill. It looks great and it works great - can't ask for much more than that. I'm looking forward to the 50mm one when you make it. Regards, Dave
Gday Dave, I’m keen to see how the lathe will handle a 50 spade drill now, thanks for watching mate, cheers
Brilliant job Matty. I wasn't aware until a few months ago that spade drills existed. I think they are a fantastic idea. Hopefully the inserts are a reasonable price. Looking forward to seeing you use it on a future project. Cheers Nobby.
Gday Nobby, I can see ,myself making more over time, Thanks for watching mate, Cheers
Top result mate 👍
You can buy Blacking stuff from a mob in a Newcastle, but I think it is a bit $$$ exie 🧐
Presso does a lot of ‘finishing’ on his tools ( humid climate).
Very economical drill bit mate. Are the inserts coated with something?
Anyhoo…. thanks for going to the extra trouble to video the build 👍
Regards
Robert
Gday Robert, the inserts have some kind of coating but no idea what it is, at this stage I’m going to leave it as it is, I don’t have much of a rust issue here thankfully, appreciate you watching mate, cheers
Very nice precision job...Very thank You Matty...
Thanks very much, Cheers
That’s a thing of beauty.
Thanks mate, Appreciate you watching, Cheers
nitride heat treatment is best will leave the surface much more resistent to wear. Have a word with Kurtis (CEE) great build mate
Thanks mate, Cheers
I normally nickel plate my shop made tools to protect them from rust, it's cheap and easy to do, Geoffery Crocker has a good video on how to do it. I think I'm going to have a look into making some similar drills, nice work.
Gday, I started looking into nickel plating a good while ago but didn’t follow up on it, I’ll check out Geoffrey Crocker’s TH-cam, thanks for watching, cheers
@@MattysWorkshop Nickel plating is really cheap I'm still using the same sheet of nickel and the solution I made about 5 years ago, I just use an old phone charger, you don't want to use to much current.
Hi, Matty. re rust protection, I messed about with cold blueing a few rifle parts some decades ago and wasn't impressed. I think nitriding would be much better, judging from Kurtis's (CEE Australia) results. Cheers, Matty.
Gday, I've never been keen on cold bluing, I have to look into nitriding, Thanks for watching, Cheers
That turned out very nice. Great job Matty. I haven't tried a Spade Drill, but from what I understand and watching on YT, they are a game changer. Thanks for sharing and all the best to you my friend.
Gday, I was surprised how smooth the bore ended up and how accurate the hole was to 30mm, Thanks for watching mate, Cheers
Great addition to the shop!
Thanks for sharing 🇨🇦
Thanks for watching mate, Cheers
That's indeed a big one. It will stall my lathe in no time.
Gday Rustinox, the lathe handled it alright overall, I’m wondering now if it will drive a 50mm drill now, thanks for watching mate, cheers
Turned out great Matty, always impressed by your workmanship and attention to detail.
Thanks very much mate, Appreciate you watching and commenting, Cheers
Oh yeah mate that's a bobby dazzler. If it were me as far as the finish goes I'd try to get it case hardened if you want to protect it. That cold blue stuff looks good but it's rubbish for protecting against swarf. If you get it case hardened it'll have a hard exterior like when it started out before you cut the chrome off it. That gives it a lot of ductile strength like what you get from an I-beam and it makes it super resilient as far as getting scuffed up goes. But yeah mate, she's a bute. That one's a keeper for sure! You might also want to consider a 40mm if you're going to build a 50mm just to complete the range. I'd say those are a bit faster than a boring bar and well worth the time in making it. Good on you mate!
Gday, I don't have any way of case hardening here, I am thinking of building a few more over time, Appreciate you watching, Cheers
@@MattysWorkshop Bigger, that's a shame. Maybe have a chat with Curtis from @CuttingEdgeEngineering and see who he sends his bits and bobs to for hardening. You might even be able to work it out so you can get it done for free for a bit of a kind mention. Anyway I hope you're going good mate. Cheers.
If the alloy you used for the shank is compatible with surface nitriding I would consider sending it for nitriding. I think the cost isn't too much and it would certainly handle stuck chips a lot better, plus the finish is quite attractive and when oiled would provide some corrosion protection.
Gday, I have to find out where nitriding is done, Theres nowhere around here that do this unfortunately, Thanks for watching, Cheers
@@MattysWorkshop If you are still in touch with Kurtis from CEE he will know, he's shown homemade tools that he sent off for the treatment.
Nice job. Shop made tools are great. It shows a different way of doing things. Wrenching on old trucks I make them as I need them. I don't have the machines to do it, but a torch & vise will suffice for my needs. Mine may not be pretty, but do the job. I really enjoy the proper machine work for the precision. Thanks for sharing
Gday Ken, Dosen't mater how it looks as long as it works mate, Appreciate you watching, cheers
Hammered it out ,looking good. Hell of an idea, I'll have to give it try. Thank You for sharing.
Thanks mate, Appreciate you watching, Cheers
Nice one Matty, I would love one but my machine has not enough umph.😁Need a bigger boat as they say.
Gday, Its a good reason for a bigger lathe mate, Cheers
Nice drill Matty 👍
Thanks Max, cheers
Very interesting. Good work. You have talent.
Thanks very much mate, Cheers
Parkerise it!😅 That looks like an economical way to get some man sized drill bits. Did you get the inserts from Live Tools?
Regards, Preso
Gday, The insert was sent in by a viewer and I believe there are available from Livetools, I might have to look a little harder into parkerising I think, Cheers
Excellent job, Matty....first class toolmaking.👍
Thanks very much mate, cheers
It’s another win for Matty good job there mate
Thanks very much mate, Appreciate you watching, Cheers
Some high end job there Matty, very nicely done, great narration and videoing.
Carriage mounted holder on cross slide would work well with that, and other drilling, just clamp on cross slide, with a fixed datum block on the saddle.
Gday, Thanks very much mate, Not a bad idea mounting too the cross slide, Cheers
Nice one Matty, that was a nice simple build. I would get the shank Nitrided.
Gday, Nitriding is looking the way to go by the sounds of it, I have to do some searching for where I can get it done, Thanks for watching, Cheers
Great new tool in the shop. Thx for the vid.
Thanks mate, Appreciate you watching, Cheers
Great build!!!
Thanks mate, appreciate you watching
Perfect work Matty. 👏
Thanks mate, Cheers
brill Matty👍👍👍👍👍👍
nice one
atb
Kev
Gday Kev, Thanks mate, Appreciate you watching, Cheers
Hi Matty, Very good video mate!
Since I have found you with a feed from Kertis you seem to be a more "home made channel" explaining what you are doing and to me who knows nothing about metalwork very enjoyable.
Please keep the videos coming you are the highlight of the week.
Best regards ken (in the UK)
Gday Ken, Thank you for the positive feedback, Theres plenty more to come mate, Appreciate you watching, Cheers
I've probably commented when I first watched this back in June Matty. Can you tell me what the insert designation is please? I can only find the flat style inserts over here in the UK and none with the central post like your one. They certainly produce a bloody good accurate hole. That's the dog's dangly bits of an insert holder mate!
Awesome job. . Looks fantastic and worked even better. . NICE ! ! !
Thanks mate, Appreciate you watching, Cheers
Excellent job Matty, work's and looks great...
Thanks mate, Cheers
Very interesting project Matty. Well done Cheers
Thanks mate, Appreciate you watching, Cheers
Far out Matty and g'day mate, cracking job there buddy, honestly you are going from strength to strength 🎉
Gday Ralfy, Thanks mate, Truly appreciate your kind words, Cheers
cracking job Matty,
Ive never cold blued anything to be honest, I paint all my stuff with either neatsfoot oil or home made beeswax, linseed oil paste...I'm experimenting with pine Resin in linseed oil but its a bit sticky...great for wood and anvils but not so much for cutting tools.
Having accurate ways to cut holes is a huge time saver in the long run, I like the look of those a lot...if you were feeling really technical you could maybe machine a coolant bore so the coolant comes out inside the hole as you get deeper...there's one to think on
Thanks for sharing
Gday, Ive never been a fan of cold blueing, I'd be interested in how you go with your experiment, Through coolant is something on the to do list, Thanks for watching, Cheers
@@MattysWorkshop I'll let you know how it goes...so far Ive had an anvil outside my workshop all winter and there is no pitting on the table whatsoever, theres a slight rust sheen from whern it was first out there but after put the oil and beeswax on it...nothing, no change at all
Well done Matty.
Thanks mate
You are a clever bloke Matty
Thanks for watching mate, Cheers
Matty, that cutting oil looks like something I drained from the transfer case of my R model Mack Wrecker in the 90’s mate 😂. I hope it smells just as burned. Gotta say that turned out well. Definitely worth the effort. 👍
Gday, Don't you just love that smell 🤣, The oil I use is Bordo brand cutting fluid, Its not bad to be honest, Thanks for watching mate, cheers
I've been following you for a long time, initially for the shaper work! Irony, I'm till here even though the shaper is long gone! All the best, Matthew
Gday, I truly appreciate you watching and commenting, I believe you have been here from the very start almost mate, Cheers mate
again, great content Matty, you just gave me my next project, and you keep well.
Awesome, Enjoy your build mate, thanks for watching, Cheers
Have you thought of case hardening Matty? Lovely video again. Take care.
Gday, I have know way of case hardening here unfortunately, Thanks for watching mate, Cheers
Pretty dam good matty
Thanks very much mate, cheers
Gday Matty bloody nice tool build mate those drill bits can't be cheap for the whole thing so buying just the tip and making the rest is definitely the way to go and that turned out awesome great job. Yeah kempy666999 is on to it nitriding would definitely do it justice top video mate.
Gday, I have to find out what Nitriding is worth and possibly get a few things done at once if I go that way, Cheers
Great build as always 🏴 .
Thanks mate, Cheers
Truly fantastic work and fantastic results 👏 👍 👌
Thanks very much, Cheers
Nice job there Matty.
Cheers mate
well done matty yes do a 50mm one
Thanks mate, It might happen yet, Cheers
Great job Matty.
Thanks mate, Cheers
Good job!! Interesting project.
Thanks very much, Cheers
Worked well Matty.
Thanks mate, appreciate you watching
What did you do with the other mill? I enjoy your videos and the way you build, I have learned a lot watching you. Thanks.
Gday, The mill has been moved to make more room, Appreciate you watching, Cheers
Cold blue isn't the way to go to afford it any real protection. If you do decide to go that route, make sure you get every lick of contaminant off of it, then heat it up to about 100c, slather it on, and when it cools hit it with a coat of rem oil. I have never had any luck with it looking decent, but a light buff with some 0000 steel wool and rem oil would give you about the best bet. Oh, and do not touch it with bare hands between cleaning it and applying the cold blue. It has been a good 15 years sense I've messed with it, so it might be better now.
Gday, I've never been keen on the look of the cold blue finish hence why I leave things I make shiny, I have to look into nitriding and how that wears over time, Appreciate you watching, Cheers
Another good job Matty have a talk with Mark Prisling about blackening that part I forget what it is called I was looking at getting some my self I know it is from Caswell
Cheers
Keith
Gday, Ive never been a fan of the black look of tools, I understand the reasoning its done though for rust protection, I think Preso uses Parkerrising I think, Thanks for watching, Cheers
Nice work. I couldn't help but notice the Cincinnati was moving around a bit. Is that on it's way out the door?
Gday Greg, the workshop has been getting reorganised lately to make some more room, I make the room and it disappears again, thanks for watching mate, cheers
what type of lathe do you have?
Hafco AL960b
Nice work
Thanks mate
Well done mate 👍
Thanks very much Trev, Cheers mate
As always great job Matty 👌
Thanks mate, Cheers
Another awesome installment Matty, From kiwi land
Cheers mate, Appreciate you watching, Cheers
Impressive...
Thanks very much, appreciate you watching mate, cheers
Another beautiful homemade tool Matty, I wish my little machines had the grunt to drive them because I would go down that path at the drop of a hat, I used them extensively in the factory, Iscar branded stuff, that even had little adjustable chamfering collars with an indexable carbide tip, so I could kill 2 birds in one go. 👍
Gday, I can see myself making more of these over time, I like the idea of a chamfer collar, Appreciate you watching mate, Cheers
@@MattysWorkshop The chamfer collar is a nifty little thing and just clamps around the shaft, if you could find a suitable tip it wouldn't be hard to make one.
G'day Matty. I watched this last night on the television. That was a really good job mate with an excellent outcome. Cheers mate, Aaron.
PS: I'd be to lazy to make one and just purchase one off Arty at LiveTools LOL ha ha ha
Gday Aaron, I was surprised how well this worked, Thanks for watching mate, Cheers
Hi Matty, i use pottasium nitrate, aka salt petre here in philippines, dont know if you can buy in Aus.
Wouldnt worry about the scratches, only cosmetic.
Watched Kurtis using spade drills, nice finish and very close to size.
Gday, Id say at this stage its going to stay the way it is, I've watched Kurtis using these and always wondered how good they are and it was definitely worth building, Thanks for watching mate, Cheers
Cool, I like it. All the best Matty. Cheers👍
Gday, Glad you liked it mate, Have to ring you soon, Cheers
Great video thanks for sharing 👍 you could try blacking it with oxy acetylene and quenching in oil , give it a go on a piece of scrap as you'll need a bit of trial and error while you learn the knack 👍
Gday, I don't have oxy/acc here, the rent on the bottles is a killer, Thanks for watching mate, cheers
@@MattysWorkshop wife's oven it is then🤣
Hi Matty, nice work! 👎💪✌
They line up perfectly, Mickey Mouse 🙂
Q: Will you be taking the diameter a bit down where the swarf caught on or leave it the way it is?
Thanks mate
Going to leave it where it is mate
Curious to know why you didnt drill/ream the 8mm/6mm through on the lathe in the second setup in the 26mm collet?
It looks good and works like a champion.
Can you please add a link to the inserts?
Cold blue will polish off with use as swarf gets down the shank.
Gday, The reason I didn't drill the 8mm hole in the lathe was I forgot to, the 6mm hole was an after thought when I was wondering how i'd get the insert out if it got stuck, Thanks for watching, Cheers
Nice project, a series of insert drills. Would a 20 mil bar support a 25 mil head or at a push 30? More room for the swarf to clear?
Gday, I don't believe you can get away that from what ive been told, Cheers
Top job again Matty. And useful too. As for cold-blue? I’m not sure it’ll protect it more, or hide the scuff marks. But, what do I know? Anyway, greetings from Amsterdam 👍🇳🇱
Gday, Im not real keen on the cold blue to be honest and from what a few comments have said it will scratch off easily, Appreciate you watching mate, Cheers
Gday, From what a few comments suggest the cold blue would be a waste of time, Appreciate you watching mate, Cheers.